Download February 2011 - Bite Magazine

BiteFeb2011:Layout 1 27/1/11 18:29 Page 15Review:The Canons’ GaitImpressive pub foodEssentially a traditional pub steeped inhistory, The Canons’ Gait has alsorecently become known for itssuperior pub food. Mr Bite and I went alongone Friday night to investigate.It’s a busy, no-frills bar with a good selection ofreal ales and Mr Bite happily ordered a pint ofCarronade IPA from the excellent Tryst brewery.I had ‘taken the pledge’ for the month so wasdisappointed that alcohol -free beer was notavailable, this is not unusual though.The menu contains pub staples, moreambitious dishes and a specials board. Starterschosen from the board were a tomato, chilliand seafood soup (£3.75) for me and pressedpig’s cheek, crispy pig’s ear, buttered rye toastand a salsa verde (£4.75) for Mr Bite. Theterrine had good porky flavour, the twirls ofear added texture and chopped gherkins inthe verde provided a pleasant, mouthpuckeringfoil. My soup was more a Med-stylefish stew; tomatoes, vegetables, herbs, garlicand chilli. It was chunky warming and fiery,just the sort of simple, peasant dish I love.For mains I wanted rabbit casserole but it hadsold out so I decided on a special of duckbreast, potatoes Dauphinoise and cherrysauce (£11.95) and Mr Bite chose Crombies‘Auld Reekie’ sausages and mash (£7.25). Myduck was pink, tender and not the least bitfatty. The cherries were not over-sweet andmade an excellent fruity accompaniment. Aparcel of shredded Savoy cabbage was muchappreciated whilst the dauphinoise weretasty and creamy with a slightly chewytopping, but still retaining bite; perfect. MrBite loved his mash which sat in a beefy gravypool and the Carronade was a thirstquenching,hoppy foil to the rich, meaty dish.For dessert we shared an Amaretto parfait. Wehad perhaps assumed dessert would beperfunctory but au contraire! A base withchopped nuts, crushed biscuit, coconut, andginger could have made this dish cheese-cakeyif it were not so thin, balanced and un-cloying.The frozen cream likewise had a perfectbalance of sweet, cool, alcoholic flavours; theraspberry coulis was a pleasantly tartaccompaniment and a pretty still- wrappedamaretto biscuit completed the plate.The Canons’ Gait had truly impressed us andwe left on a high note. (S. Wilson)The Canons’ Gait– 232 Canongate, Edinburgh EH3 8DQ– 0131 556 4481– canonsgait@dmstewart.com– www.canonsgait.comOpening hoursFood served: Mon-Sat noon-8pmBar open: Mon-Thu noon-11pm;Fri/Sat noon-1am; Sun 12.30-11pm15