Download February 2011 - Bite Magazine

BiteFeb2011:Layout 1 27/1/11 18:29 Page 9Review: Peckhams UndergroundBruntsfield gemuality ingredients and theirprovenance are so de rigueur inQreputable Edinburgh restaurants thesedays that it is easy to forget those who havebeen ‘walking the walk’ for a decade or two.Peckham’s delicatessen first opened in 1982, theBruntsfield branch in 1996 and The Undergroundrestaurant in 2000. The delicatessen wasinstantly recognised for selling fine produce soit made sense to open a restaurant showcasingall the goodies on offer upstairs. In need ofstomach lining before a party one evening, myfriend and I decided to visit as neither of us hadbeen to the restaurant in ‘aeons’.The menu highlights ingredients such asInverawe smoked salmon, Macsween’s Haggis,Peckham’s Farmhouse merguez and Five MileTown goat’s cheese and the tasty-soundingdishes had us thoroughly chewing over ourfinal dinner decision. Prices are reasonabletoo. A bottle of Peckham’s champagne rings inat £26.95, prosecco £12.95 and our bottle ofAnakena Chilean chardonnay was also £12.95,an absolute steal especially as itcomplemented our meal so admirably. Wehad both finally decided on the Scottishsmoked haddock with boiled potatoes,parsley pesto and a ‘Really Garlicky’ mayo(£9.95). The wine had zippy grapefruit aciditywhich cut through the richness of themayonnaise and the fish but it was alsosmooth and well-bodied. The haddock was afine, flaky specimen that was full of flavour,the potatoes were tasty, well-cooked andsatisfying, and the pesto was home-made andherbaceous; a simple delicious meal wherethe ingredients were allowed to shine.Desserts were a must; I chose black forestgâteaux (£3.95) and my friend had the Bailey’scheesecake (£3.95). My Bavarian concoctionhad dark moist sponge, snowy thick creamand kirsch-soaked cherries. My friend thoughther cheesecake lacked alcoholic kick but Itried a few spoonfuls and got it immediately. Ithought it was better than the cake.The service was warm, friendly and informedand the atmosphere laid-back andcomfortable. My only criticism would be ofthe decor which is well-worn and does not dothe food justice. With a little effort Peckham’sUnderground could be a buzzing eateryinstead of a ‘hidden gem’. (S Wilson)Peckham’s Underground– 155-159 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh EH10 4DG– 0131 228 2888– www.peckhams.co.ukOpening hours7 Days Lunch Mon-Fri 12 noon-2pm andDinner Mon-Thu 5.30pm-9pm,Fri Dinner 5pm-10.30pm Sat 10am-10.30pmand Sun 10am- 8.30pm9