Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture Research Update - P&G Beauty ...

Fine Lines, Wrinkles 

& Texture 

Research Update

contents 

The State of Anti-Aging 

Skin Care 

1 Skin care science advances as 

market proliferation and consumer 

confusion increases 


& Texture Infl uence 

Self-Perception 

2 How fi ne lines, wrinkles and 

texture contribute to perceptions 

of age 

Biology of Fine Lines, 

Wrinkles & Texture 

3 Defi ning the Problem 

Where a fi ne line ends and a 

wrinkle begins 

4 Targeting the Problem Where 

it Occurs 

The common facial areas where 

problems appear 

4 Intrinsic & Extrinsic Factors 

Associated with Skin Aging 

The skin’s responses to biological 

aging and environmental exposures 

6 The Fundamentals of 

Preventing and Reversing 

the Signs of Skin Aging 

Talking points on how to minimize 

wrinkles and strengthen skin 

Innovations in 

Technology & 

Clinical Testing 

6 Advances in Molecular Testing 

From genomics to metabolomics 

and beyond 

7 Advances in Preclinical and 


A new age of safety and effi cacy 

testing 

Addressing Fine Lines, 

Wrinkles & Texture 

Changes 

10 Topical Anti-Aging Compounds 

A table of some of the most 

researched and popular skin care 

compounds 

11 What Works 

The latest research on antioxidants 

and UV protection, retinoids, niacinamide 

and peptides 

Infl ammatory Responses 

& Their Relationship 

to Skin 

16 Putting the Pieces Together: 

Genomics, Infl ammation and 

Skin Aging 

Infl ammatory pathways and their 

effects on skin aging

The State of Anti-Aging Skin Care 

The appearance of fi ne lines and wrinkles is one of the most 

common signs of aging in people around the world. Yet, regardless 

of when wrinkles are fi rst noticed, they are an unwelcome 

indicator of age, especially for women who are leading more 

active lives and are looking for ways to look and feel their best. 

Increased life expectancy has changed the concept of aging and, 

in turn, propelled anti-aging research that has led to a multitude of 

topical applications. Skin science is advancing at an exponential 

pace, yet profound gaps remain in patients’ understanding of the 

biological mechanisms of skin and the research supporting interventions 

that can help to preserve supple, smooth, youthful skin 

and nourish, replenish and renew aging skin. 

Amid the proliferation of specialty 

anti-aging products and the 

ensuing consumer confusion, the 

anti-aging fi eld is booming with 

discoveries made possible through 

the application of complex science 

and advanced technologies including 

the gene chip, sophisticated 

medical imaging tools and computational 

models. With a focus on 

the physical and molecular basis 

of fi ne lines, wrinkles and poor 

texture, P&G Beauty scientists have 

brought exacting precision to this 

area of dermatological study and 

have translated their knowledge to 

drive the identifi cation of improved 

anti-aging ingredients. 

As scientists continue to search for 

breakthroughs, deeper analyses of 

bio logical pathways that distinguish 

young and aging skin are providing 

new insights into the processes of 

skin aging which will in turn lead to 

better preventive measures and antiaging 

treatments. 

Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture: Research Update 1


& Texture Infl uence 

Self-Perception 

Th roughout the evolution of skin 

care, fi ne lines, wrinkles and texture 

have been persistent concerns for 

aging women. Research reveals that 

this concern is legitimate and related 

to self-image and age-related discrimination. 

Poor self-image is associated 

with chronic illness and fewer 

preventive health behaviors, such as 

exercise, 1 and aged skin, particularly 

in women, has also been linked to 

job discrimination. 1 Such far-reaching 

psycho-social implications help 

explain the ongoing quest to develop 

better treatments to conceal and 

delay the signs of aging. 

As this quest has progressed, skin care 

formulators have sought to use the 

best science available to address fi ne 

lines, wrinkles and texture problems. 

As illustrated in the timeline below, a 

snapshot of trends over past decades 

Decades of Skin Care 

1960s 

Moisturization is 

key to wrinkle reduction 

(e.g., propylene 

glycol, lactate) 

2 Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture: Research Update 

1970s 

Super-moisturization 

ingredients debut 

(e.g., glycerol, 

petrolatum) 

demonstrates that the approaches to 

addressing the problem have evolved 

in step with technological advances 

and a wider availability of ingredients. 

In tandem with the increased availability 

of specialty creams and lotions, 

consumers have become more aware 

of and concerned with the multitude 

of factors relating to aging skin. 

Researchers have found there are 

seven key signs of aging that concern 

women and these concerns are consistently 

identifi ed, regardless of their 

diverse lifestyles and ethnicities. 

P&G Beauty conducted surveys with 

over 6,000 women across three continents 

and found the following concerns 

to be consistently identifi ed: 

• Fine lines and wrinkles 

• Skin texture 

• Skin tone 

• Skin surface dullness 

• Visible pores 

• Blotchiness and age spots 

• Dryness 

1980s 

Exfoliation is the rage 

(e.g., hydroxy acids) 

While this longer list of concerns 

suggests that women are increasingly 

taking a more holistic view of the 

signs of skin’s aging, fi ne lines and 

wrinkles continue to be a prime concern 

for women. As one of the fi rst 

visible manifestations of aging in a 

world that values youthful appearances, 

there are no indications that 

the focus on fi ne lines and wrinkles 

will wane. But how much do wrinkles 

and fi ne lines contribute to selfperceptions 

compared to these other 

age-related factors? 

To better understand the relative contribution 

of fi ne lines and wrinkles 

versus skin color unevenness on selfperceptions, 

P&G Beauty researchers 

conducted a study to isolate the 

role that fi ne lines and wrinkles play. 

In the study, researchers took digital 

facial images of subjects 40 years or 

older using a custom high-resolution 

digital imaging system. Th ese images 

were then subjected to the digital 

removal of fi ne lines, wrinkles and 

color unevenness. Finally, groups of 

1990s 

Age-defying ingredients 

make news 

(e.g., retinoids) 

2000s 

An ever-expanding 

range of specialty 

ingredients leads to 

better products, but 

also consumer confusion 

(e.g., niacinamide, 

peptides)

panelists were asked to identify the 

age of the images they were shown. 

Preliminary fi ndings reveal that fi ne 

lines and wrinkles are the primary 

factors impacting perceptions of 

female facial age. Th ese early fi ndings 

underscore the need for further 

research to elucidate the connection 

between skin aging and perceptions, 

and reinforce eff orts to discover better 

and more accessible anti-aging 

solutions. 

Biology of Fine 

Lines, Wrinkles 

& Texture 

In looking at the biological mechanisms 

which lead to fi ne lines, 

wrinkles and changing texture, it is 

important to start with clear working 

defi nitions of these phenomena. Th is 

is especially important because they 

often overlap, the progression from 

one to the other is subtle and the 

measurements used to evaluate them 

vary across the fi eld of dermatology. 

Adding to this complexity, one must 

take into account that these phenomena 

are driven by both intrinsic and 

extrinsic factors and that these factors 

are highly interrelated. As science 

unravels each nuance of these processes, 

better strategies for addressing 

the undesirable eff ects of skin aging 

are emerging, and P&G Beauty sci- 

entists and their collaborators are 

constantly seeking new insights that 

will ultimately lead to improved antiaging 

treatments. 

Defi ning the Problem 

Across dermatological literature, 

there are various synonyms and characteristics 

used to describe fi ne lines, 

wrinkles and inconsistent texture, 

and consequently, defi nitions have 

been somewhat broad and expansive. 

In their work, P&G Beauty researchers 

utilize the criteria below to defi ne 

fi ne lines, wrinkles and inconsistent 

texture: 

Surface Wrinkles/Fine Lines 

• Crevices in the surface of the skin 

that only delve into the epidermal 

layer 

• Less than 0.1mm in depth 

Wrinkle 

Fold 

Line 

• May either disappear upon relaxation 

or be barely discernible 

• Th ought to be reducible/eliminated 

without the use of invasive 

procedures 

Deep Wrinkles/Folds 

• Crevices in the skin surface that 

delve into the dermal layer (deep 

wrinkles) and even into the subcutaneous 

layer (folds) 

• Greater than 0.1mm in depth, up 

to 0.4mm in depth 

• Remain well-defi ned and evident 

upon the relaxation of the muscles 

and the skin 

Inconsistent Texture 

• Enlarged pore size 

• “Bumpy” texture 

• Rough or fl aky texture 

Epidermis 

Dermis 

Subcutis 


Targeting the Problem 

Where It Occurs 

Experts agree that wrinkles usually 

begin as fi ne lines. Generally, these 

lines are found in the areas used most 

frequently in facial expressions and 

those highly exposed to UV rays. 

As a result, wrinkles are commonly 

found in the areas pictured below. 

Additionally, inconsistent skin texture 

can be found on many areas 

of the face, most noticeably on the 

nose and cheek area (“bumpy” texture, 

enlarged pores) and the area 

between the eye and the ear. Other 

texture problems that can be found 

across the entire face are rough or 

fl aky texture and scarring or pitting 

from acne. 

Forehead 

Crows feet 

Enlarged 

pores 

Upper & lower lip 

Chin/underside of chin 


Intrinsic & Extrinsic Factors 

Associated with Skin Aging 

A large body of research has helped to 

delineate intrinsic and extrinsic factors 

at work in aging skin. Th e process of 

intrinsic skin aging follows a similar 

trajectory as that of most internal 

organs, with factors including inevitable 

changes in hormone levels, particularly 

estrogen, as well as declines 

in metabolic activity and cell regeneration. 

2 Extrinsic skin aging is caused 

primarily by UV exposure; 3 however, 

exposure to environmental pollution 

and smoking are also signifi cant factors. 

Yet, while science has, for research 

purposes, categorized age-inducing 

factors as either intrinsic or extrinsic, 

increasing evidence demonstrates their 

interdependencies; specifi cally, we are 

Bumpy texture 

Laughter lines 

Corners of mouth 

In addition to the problem areas shown above, rough or fl aky texture can appear anywhere 

on the face. 

Skin Facts 

• Up to approximately mid-30s, the 

skin epidermis renews itself every 

4-6 weeks. As the body ages, the 

renewal time slows to about 6-8 

weeks. 

• The skin of an average woman 

weighs about 3 kg, and that of an 

average man approximately 5 kg. 

• The thickness of the skin varies, 

depending on its site on the body. It 

is thinnest on the eyelids and thickest 

on the palms of the hands and 

the soles of the feet. 

learning more about the ways extrinsic 

factors accelerate intrinsic aging. 

One example of the complex interplay 

of factors involves free radicals, 

which are both generated internally 

through normal metabolic processes 

and produced as a consequence of 

external factors, including UV exposure. 

As a result of the age-associated 

decline in protective internal antioxidant 

mechanisms, free radicals 

accumulate in the body and alter 

both the proteins and the DNA 

in the skin. In fact, according to a 

recent study published in Nature, 4 

the buildup of damaged DNA drives 

the aging process. In addition, ongoing 

accumulation of internally-generated 

free radicals combined with 

those generated from UV and other

external assaults (surfactants, allergens, 

and other irritants) can promote 

a chronic infl ammatory state. 

Th is chronic infl ammatory state 

compromises skin health and accelerates 

the aging process; for example, 

proteolytic enzymes are produced, 

resulting in collagen degradation. 5 

Other changes resulting from the 

complex interplay between intrinsic 

and extrinsic factors that impact the 

appearance of fi ne lines, wrinkles and 

texture include the following: 

• Th ickness of the epidermis, cellular 

turnover rate of both the epider mis 

and the stratum corneum declines 

and epidermal diff erentiation is 

6, 7 altered. 

• Dermis becomes thinner as major 

structural molecules including collagen, 

elastin and glycosaminoglycans 

decrease in amount. 8, 9, 10 Metalloproteinase 

activity also decreases 

in photodamaged skin and the 

structure of these molecules 

becomes disorganized and cross- 

11, 12, 13, 14, 15 

linked. 

• Convolution of dermal-epidermal 

junction (Rete ridges) fl attens with 

age, resulting in a loss of mechanical 

strength. 16 Th is also leads to 

decreased microcirculation to the 

upper dermis and, thus, decreased 

nourishment to the epidermis. 

• Age-related changes in inter- and 

intra-cellular signaling lead to 

17, 18 

decreases in collagen synthesis. 

• Changes in hyaluronic acid content 

within the skin varies with 

age. Hyaluronic acid is a natural 

moisturizer within the skin binding 

up to 1000 times its weight in 

water. Age-related declines result 

in compromised moisturization 

19, 20 

and fi rmness. 

• Decrease in intracellular energy 

sources including ATP and NADH 

lead to an inability of skin cells to 

sustain youthful skin biochemistry, 

thereby reducing the skin’s ability 

to maintain and restore youthful 

skin structure. 21 

Th ese changes work together to compromise 

skin’s elasticity, fi rmness and 

structure, which contributes to areas 

of collapse and irregularity and ultimately 

manifests as fi ne lines, wrinkles 

and texture problems. 

As P&G Beauty scientists continue 

to study how these processes contribute 

to fi ne lines, wrinkles and 

texture changes, they’re also seeking 

to better understand what processes 

impact other consumer-relevant signs 

of aging, including skin tone, surface 

dullness, pore size, blotchiness, age 

spots and dryness. Th e intention of this 

ongoing research is to develop antiaging 

products that can comprehensively 

approach the many factors that 

lead to the appearance of aging skin. 

Innovations in 

Technology & 


With our advancing understanding 

of the biology of fi ne lines and 

wrinkles comes the application of 

more sophisticated technologies and 

more rigorous research methods to 

measure the eff ects of topical treatments. 

Gone are the days of trial 

and error, when the effi cacy of topical 

interventions was determined by 

treating symptoms without a clear 

sense of the underlying biological 

mechanisms. Now, researchers are 

utilizing a host of complex sciences 

and technologies to understand these 


mechanisms, and designing their 

studies to eliminate the uncertainties 

and subjectivity that colored earlier 

conclusions. 

Advances in Molecular Testing 

At the molecular level, P&G Beauty 

researchers are bringing to bear several 

complex sciences to gain a more 

complete picture of skin aging. Th ese 

sciences include: 

• Genomics: a branch of biotechnology 

which applies genetic and 

molecular biology techniques to 

the genetic mapping and DNA 

sequencing of sets of genes or 

the complete genomes of selected 

organisms. 

• Wrinkles and poor texture are among the earliest signs of aging. 

Over time, the skin becomes thinner, drier and less elastic. The 

timing and severity of the appearance of fi ne lines and wrinkles 

is due to: 

– Your genetic predisposition to wrinkles and the natural aging 

process 

– Exposure to sunlight and other environmental irritants, including 

pollution 

• Overexposure to the sun is the main culprit of premature agerelated 

changes, including wrinkles, roughness, altered pigmentation, 

loss of skin tone and dilated blood vessels. To protect 

your skin, use a daily moisturizer with broad spectrum SPF 15 

sunscreen included. If you plan to be outside, apply and reapply 

sunscreen and don’t forget to wear a hat, protective clothing 

and sunglasses. Try to limit your exposure to the sun during the 

middle of the day when UV light is at its strongest. 


• Proteomics: a branch of biotechnology 

which applies the techniques 

of molecular biology, 

bio chemistry and genetics to analyzing 

the structure, function and 

interactions of the proteins produced 

by the genes of a particular 

cell, tissue or organism. 

• Metabolomics: the systematic study 

of the unique chemical fi nger prints 

that specifi c cellular processes leave 

behind; specifi cally, the study of 

their small-molecule metabolite 

profi le. 

• Bioinformatics: the use of techniques 

including applied mathematics, 

infor ma tics, statistics, 

The Fundamentals of Preventing & Reversing the Signs of Aging Skin 

com puter science, artifi cial intelligence, 

chemistry and biochemistry 

to solve biological problems, usually 

on the molecular level. 

Of these applied disciplines, one 

of the most exciting areas of P&G 

Beauty research is genomics, where 

the sequencing of the human genome 

has given scientists an exponentially 

larger toolbox from which to learn 

and innovate targeted interventions. 

Owing directly to the breakthroughs 

of modern genetics, researchers now 

have the ability to identify the specifi 

c human genes that are modulated 

in response to various stimuli. 

• Supplement the protective effects of broad spectrum 

SPF 15 coverage with anti-aging treatments that can help 

strengthen the skin, including the skin barrier, and reverse 

the signs of aging. These include topical antioxidants, niacinamide, 

N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG) and peptides, among others. 

• Quit smoking or don’t start. Cigarette smoke causes marked 

decreases in the antioxidant capacity of skin and production of 

new collagen. 

• Exercise regularly to help fl ush impurities out of your skin. Exercising 

also facilitates the production of sebum, which is the skin’s 

natural moisturizer, and improves blood fl ow to the skin. 

• Optimize your immune function and skin’s natural self-repair 

mechanisms by drinking plenty of water, eating a well-balanced 

diet and getting plenty of rest.

Gene Chip Technology 

One new technology that has been 

developed as an outgrowth of the 

sequencing of the human genome is 

a gene-monitoring device known as 

the gene chip. Th e gene chip’s versatile 

technology has led to it being 

used by researchers studying various 

diseases including autism, bipolar 

disease, cancer, diabetes and heart 

disease. In addition to these applications, 

the gene chip technology is 

enabling P&G Beauty researchers to 

understand the underlying biological 

basis of changes seen on the skin surface, 

including changes in fi ne lines 

and wrinkles. 

Th e chip itself has indicators that represent 

genes comprising the human 

genome. By placing fragments of 

Tiled onto an Affymetrix gene chip are oligonucleatide 

probes representing over 35,000 genes.This 

technology has revolutionized genomics research 

and is being used extensively by P&G Beauty 

scientists. 

fl uorescently-tagged samples isolated 

from the skin onto the chip, scientists 

can see which genes are expressed 

within the sample and whether these 

genes are up-regulated or down-regulated, 

indicating specifi c molecular 

events contributing to a given biological 

process. 

Advances in Preclinical 

& Clinical Testing 

Along the long road from molecular 

to preclinical and fi nally clinical testing 

at P&G Beauty, ingredients and 

their subsequent product applications 

must pass clear safety and effi - 

cacy benchmarks before even being 

considered for market introduction. 

Beginning with testing on in vitro 

skin equivalents and advancing to in 

vivo effi cacy testing, these measurements 

have elevated the legitimacy of 

skin care science and the rigor upon 

which skin care claims are made. 

In vitro Human Skin Equivalents 

Th e imperative for skin product 

safety, combined with ethical, social 

and political pressures, has fostered 

improvements in alternatives for animal 

testing. One of the leading technologies 

that has been developed is 

human skin equivalent culture models. 

In recent years, advancements in 

techniques have led to cultures that 

mimic not only the epidermal layer 

but also the dermal layer, allowing 

these models to be used not only for 

safety assessments22 but also to test 

23, 24, 25 

product effi cacy. 

In vitro human skin equivalents reproduce many 

cellular and structural elements of natural skin, 

including the dermis, epidermis and melanocytes. 

Human skin equivalent cultures receive nutrients 

from the bottom of the culture. This facilitates 

application of topical ingredients, both water 

soluble and non-water soluble, on the top of the 

culture. 

Today’s human skin equivalents off er 

multiple advantages over traditional 

monolayer cultures: 

• Can be used to test undiluted 

materials (e.g., product formulations) 

which is important because 

not all materials are water-soluble 

• Are able to show cell-to-cell 

interaction between dermis and 

epidermis 

• Clinically relevant measures can 

be performed (e.g., barrier eff ects 

with TEWL, hydration) 


Clinical Test Design 

In today’s era of sophisticated skin science, 

clinicians and consumers alike 

are calling for data on cosmetic products 

that are based on the same level of 

scientifi c rigor that is required of drug 

trials. While such trials are voluntary 

and require signifi cant investments in 

time and resources, P&G Beauty has 

long adhered to testing methodologies 

for cosmetic products that exceed 

those required by governmental regulatory 

bodies and that are relied upon 

by most beauty companies. 

Consistent with this commitment, 

P&G Beauty regularly conducts randomized, 

double-blinded clinical trials. 

26, 27, 28, 29, 30 Using these protocols, 

participants are randomly assigned 

to one of two or more treatment 

regimens, and neither the study participants 

nor the researchers know 

which participants are receiving the 

test therapy and which are receiving 

a placebo or control therapy. 

Th ese measures, though exhaustive, 

ensure potential selection biases are 

eliminated and that fi ndings are both 

objective and reproducible. 

Ghosting Method: Increases 

Accuracy of Before & After 

Comparisons 

Th e technical diffi culties involved 

with capturing visual data and the 

absence of clear digital image capture 

standards have resulted in many 

dubious before and after comparisons 


throughout dermatological literature. 

Facial expression, head position and 

lighting are all critical factors in determining 

whether a wrinkle has become 

smaller, larger or remained the same 

size and depth. Th e challenge is compounded 

because the more subtle the 

change, the more critical changes in 

these factors become. 

Given these challenges, it has taken 

advances in technology and scrupulous 

scientists to bring rigor to the 

process of eff ective digital imaging 

of aging skin. One advance that has 

helped solidify digital imaging as a 

serious documentation and measurement 

tool is “ghosting” technology. 

By replicating the original lighting 

and facial positioning to the most 

precise degree, the ghosting method 

helps ensure the most accurate possible 

assessments of skin changes, 

whether those changes are being 

determined objectively by computer 

image analysis or subjectively by 

graders or consumers. 

How It Works: During the subject’s 

initial visit, the operator captures 

the baseline image. At follow-up, the 

operator recalls the subject’s baseline 

image, or repositioning image, 

in a semi-transparent “ghost image” 

format. 

When the camera system is activated, 

it brings up both the baseline ghost 

image and an overlaid live subject 

Ghost image from baseline visit. 

Aligning the ghost and current live image. 

image. Th e operator aligns the baseline 

ghost image and overlaid live 

image, matching the subject’s live 

head position and facial expression 

with the baseline ghost image. 

Th e goal of this technological process 

is to minimize possible confounding 

variables. Not only does this help 

advance science by providing more 

precise measures, it bolsters the validity 

of claims and is in the best interest 

of consumers.

Visit 1 Visit 2 

Perfectly repositioned subject, even months later. 

FOITS Topography Maps 

In the world of skin science, the value 

of obtaining skin surface topography 

in vivo cannot be understated, 

but the data obtained is only as valuable 

as it is precise. In their ongoing 

quest for more precise measurement 

instruments, P&G Beauty researchers 

acquired a new measurement technology 

known as FOITS (Fast Optical 

In Vivo Topometry of Human Skin) 

to augment their existing topographical 

measurement system. 

How It Works: FOITS uses the principle 

of “fringe projection” to analyze 

the topographic features (height variations) 

of the skin surface. An appro- 

priate analogy for “fringe protection” 

in image capture can be made by 

imagining light passing through 

window blinds and onto an object. 

While stripes of light are cast onto 

the object, they distort the geometry 

of the object. But the original geometry 

of the object can be captured by 

comparing the coordinates where the 

light stripes meet the parallel shadow 

stripes. FOITS applies this same 

principle to skin’s topographical features. 

A parallel stripe pattern is fi rst 

projected onto the skin surface. Th e 

instrument then calculates the x-y-z 

coordinates where the original stripe 

pattern and the parallel dark pattern 

meet, generating precise data on the 

true skin topography. 

Upon acquiring FOITS, P&G Beauty 

researchers used the technology to 

assess the performance of existing 

product lines. Th eir fi ndings were 

extremely satisfying — the technology 

itself yielded better measurements and 

the tested products met or exceeded 

study endpoints. Th is is especially 

Example of FOITS before and after comparison images showing the benefi ts of a test topical antiaging 

cream. The outer boxes contain images of wrinkles in the crow’s feet area following treatment 

with a test topical anti-aging cream. The inner boxes represent topographical heat maps of 

this same area and clearly indicate reduced fi ne lines and wrinkles. 

rewarding, given that the FOITS system 

is increasingly gaining recognition 

for its ability to validate product 

claims and that the technology has 

been adopted as the standard for antiaging 

product claims in Germany. 

Addressing Fine 

Lines, Wrinkles & 

Texture Changes 

In addition to the expanded range of 

topical anti-aging technologies available, 

the variety of cosmetic procedures 

(e.g., face lifts, fi llers and facial 

peels) has multiplied in recent years. 

While these more invasive and costly 

procedures are the right decision for 

some, many patients prefer topical 

interventions, are averse to invasive 

procedures or fi nd them cost prohibitive. 

For these reasons, it is important 

to stay up-to-date on the latest 

skin care ingredients that are backed 

by science and can address patients’ 

anti-aging concerns. 31 

Scientifi c research has substantiated 

the mechanism of action of several 

wrinkle-fi ghting ingredients. While 

the variety of compounds found in 

today’s skin care products continues 

to grow, not all are backed by signifi - 

cant clinical research. Th e table on the 

following page describes some of 

the more popular and well-researched 

31, 32 

anti-aging ingredients. 


TOPICAL ANTI-AGING COMPOUNDS 

Ingredient/Compound Mechanism of Action 

Ascorbic Acid — a potent organic acid with 

antioxidant properties, commonly known 

as vitamin C. Forms of this vitamin include 

ascorbic acid, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl 

palmitate and ascorbyl glucoside. 

CoQ10 — a naturally occurring compound 

found in every cell in the body that acts as 

an antioxidant. Also known as ubiquinone. 

N-acetyl Glucosamine (NAG) — a simple 

amino sugar and nutrient that plays a role in 

forming and maintaining the body’s tissues. 

Niacinamide — a water soluble B3 vitamin 

found naturally in the body. Forms of vitamin 

B3 that are typically used in skin care products 

include niacinamide (also called “nicotinamide”), 

nicotinic acid and nicotinate esters. 

Panthenol — present in all living cells and 

a major component of co-enzyme A, which 

serves a critical role in cellular metabolism. 

Peptides — natural or synthetic compounds 

containing two or more linked amino acids. 

Peptides that are of particular interest to the cosmetic 

industry include palmitoyl-lysine-threoninethreonine-lysine-serine 

(pal-KTTKS; Matrixyl ® ) 

and palmitoyl-lysine threonine (pal-KT). 

Retinoids — derivatives of vitamin A. Retinoic 

acid is the functional form of vitamin A in 

skin and is considered to be the gold-standard 

Rx anti-aging treatment. Other forms of 

vitamin A used cosmetically include retinol, 

retinyl-propionate and retinaldehyde. 

Salicylic Acid — derivative of beta-hydroxy 

acid. Other forms of hydroxy acids used cosmetically 

include glycolic, malic, tartaric, lactic 

and critic acids; and polyhydroxy acids such 

as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. 

Other Antioxidants — include alphalipoic 

acid, tocopherol and lutein and 

are employed in the cosmetic arena. 

Tocopherol is an isomer of vitamin E. 

Sunscreens — Include avobenzone, 

octocrylene, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. 


Based on in vitro experiments, vitamin C has been shown to promote collagen synthesis. 

Cosmetic studies demonstrate several skin anti-aging effects from the use of 

topical vitamin C. 3% ascorbic acid has been shown to reduce oxidative damage by 

neutralizing free radicals as well as to reduce facial wrinkles. 5–17% ascorbic acid 

minimizes facial photoaging, improves skin texture and increases skin elastin. 

Neutralizes harmful free radicals and protects skin from damaging effects. Higher levels 

of CoQ10 result in increased production of collagen and elastin. Penetrates epidermal 

layers to reduce level of oxidation and diminish depth of fi ne lines/wrinkles. 

Experiments treating cells in culture with N-acetyl-glucosamine have demonstrated signifi 

cant increases in both hyaluronic acid and collagen. In human clinical testing, topically 

applied NAG improves skin moisturization as well as the appearance of fi ne lines/wrinkles. 

In vitro experiments establish that niacinamide increases collagen production, 

decreases sebum production and increases barrier-containing lipids and proteins. 

Clinical studies have demonstrated a range of benefi ts including a reduction 

in the appearance of fi ne lines and wrinkles, minimized skin pore size and 

decreased appearance of hyper-pigmented spots, blotchiness and skin sallowness. 

In vitro studies of cells treated with panthenol demonstrate increased synthesis of stratum 

corneum lipids. Topically-applied panthenol in human clinical testing has shown increased 

hydration of the stratum corneum and improved roughness and elasticity of skin. 

In vitro studies prove that synthetic pal-KTTKS stimulates collagen production and 

reduces excess dermal GAGs. In addition, in vitro pal-KT enhances the reduction of 

collagen alone and synergistically with pal-KTTKS. Clinical studies show topical pal- 

KTTKS and pal-KT products improve the appearance of wrinkles and texture. 

In vitro studies demonstrate retinoid-induced changes in the expression of genes 

relevant to dermal matrix production, epidermal differentiation and melanin production. 

Specifi cally, retinoids stimulate the production of collagen and decrease 

the production of dermal GAGs. Retinoids have also been shown to increase the 

production of epidermal hyaluronic acid. Clinical studies demonstrate that topical 

doses of retinoids less than 1% are signifi cantly effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, 

roughness and the appearance of facial fi ne lines/wrinkles. 

Salicylic Acid proves to exfoliate the stratum corneum resulting in improved skin 

texture and color appearance. Clinical studies of topical salicylic acid have demonstrated 

improvements in the appearance of wrinkling, roughness and discoloration. 

In in vitro experiments, antioxidants neutralize free radicals, protect skin 

cells from oxidation and thwart other antioxidants from oxidizing. In particular, 

tocopherol has the potential to improve skin problems caused by UV exposure 

such as sunburn, skin photoaging and hyperpigmentation. Used topically, 

these antioxidants have been shown to diminish the appearance of aging. 

Chemical sunscreens absorb UV radiation while physical sunscreens block UV rays. 

A physical or “broad spectrum” sunscreen is an effi cient tool to protect against 

both UVA and UVB rays, which contribute to wrinkles, freckles and age spots. 

Prevents 

Repairs 

Prevents 

& Repairs

What Works 

In recent years, science has uncovered 

a great deal about how to prevent 

extrinsic skin aging as well as 

the anti-aging benefi ts of retinoids, 

niacinamide and peptides. 

Prevention of Extrinsic Skin Aging 

Everyone has heard the old adage 

that an ounce of prevention equals 

a pound of cure, but in the arena of 

skin science, it is only recently that 

we’ve gained a clearer understanding 

of what should be prevented and how. 

Th anks to research advancements, 

we now know both the consequences 

of extrinsic factors and what can be 

done to avoid, or at least limit, their 

deleterious eff ects. 

In the area of UV protection, 

increased understanding of the role 

of UVA rays in both cancer and skin 

aging has led to stronger emphasis on 

“broad spectrum” coverage that protects 

against UVA and UVB rays, as 

well as the introduction of improved 

UVA fi lters. Th is progress is continuing 

to be built upon through 

enhanced technologies that deliver 

the protection consumers need along 

with the product aesthetics we know 

improve sunscreen compliance. 33 

Progress has also been made in better 

understanding the role of antioxidants 

in inhibiting reactive oxygen 

species (ROS) formation and thereby 

interrupting free radical chain propa- 

gation, a major pathway for UV- and 

other environmentally-induced skin 

damage. In a recent study, P&G 

Beauty researchers 34 used fl uorescence 

microscopy to visualize and 

quantify the protective eff ect of topically-applied 

antioxidants for inhibiting 

ROS formation across several 

sources of oxidative stressors, including 

UV light, automotive emissions 

and ozone. Th e effi cacy of sunscreen 

alone and in combination with antioxidants 

was also evaluated. 

Key fi ndings include: 

• Topically applied antioxidant 

formulations were eff ective at 

signifi cantly inhibiting free radical 

formation, with reductions of 

19–88% versus antioxidant-free 

vehicle controls observed against 

three oxidative stressors. 

• An antioxidant/SPF 15 formulation 

gave signifi cantly reduced ROS 

(91% reduction) versus either 

antioxidant-only (88% reduction) 

or SPF-only (61% reduction) controls 

(p

Retinoids include: 

• Retinol 

• Retinaldehyde 

• Retinyl Esters (retinyl propionate, 

retinyl palmitate) 

• Tretinoin (trans-retinoic acid) 

• Adapalene 

• Tazarotene 

moderate skin irritation that may 

persist over the course of topical 

use, 36 and the associated teratogenic 

eff ects. In recent years, new synthetic 

derivatives of vitamin A that have 

been developed for use on human 

skin minimize cutaneous irritation 

and other unwanted eff ects. Clinical 

trials comparing retinol to retinyl 

esters suggest that retinyl propionate, 

the propionic acid ester of retinol, 

delivers skin benefi ts that are similar 

to using retinol (e.g., improvement 

in appearance of wrinkles and 

pigment spots) but with less irritation. 

37 Because of the skin’s enhanced 

sensitivity to sunlight when using 

retinoids, adequate sun protection 

must be factored into treatment. A 

12-week study evaluated the use of 

retinol and retinyl propionate both 

co-applied with sunscreen. Th ose 

using retinyl propionate and sunscreen 

showed a signifi cant reduction 

in the appearance of wrinkles and 

sunspots with no irritation. Con- 


Baseline After 12 Weeks 

Effect of retinyl propionate upon photodamaged skin. 0.2% retinyl propionate in a 

stable skin care emulsion system was applied twice daily for 12 weeks. Images were 

taken at baseline and week 12. 

versely, the retinol-sunscreen combination 

appeared to exacerbate skin 

irritation and lessened the skin benefi 

ts. 37 Retinyl propionate appears to 

off er dermatologists a milder, more 

tolerable form of retinoid that can 

improve the look of photoaged skin, 

while guarding against additional sun 

damage and irritation. 

Niacinamide 

Topical niacinamide, a water-soluble 

derivative of vitamin B3, provides 

a host of dermatological therapeutic 

benefi ts. Clinical research provides 

grow ing evidence for its positive 

eff ects on skin health, from help- 

ing maintain barrier integrity 

29, 30, 

38, 39, 40 to diminishing the signs 

of aging, including: (1) reducing fi ne 

lines and wrinkles, 29 (2) reducing 

texture problems by diminishing 

the appearance of pores 41, 42 and (3) 

improving skin tone by reducing the 

appearance of hyperpigmentation, 

skin yellowing and red blotchiness. 29 

Niacinamide is also well-tolerated 

and compatible with other anti-aging 

technologies, making it an ideal 

choice for skin care. 29 In fact, it has 

recently been shown that the use of 

niacinamide-containing moisturizer 

during topical tretinoin therapy mitigates 

the severity of side eff ects and 

augments the treatment response. 43 

Th e eff ects of niacinamide on skin 

cells in culture have been explored 

extensively. Niacinamide has been 

shown to be a key player in the normalization 

of age-associated depletions 

of nicotinamide coenzymes. 

Th is is of particular importance for 

aged skin since systemic and intracellular 

concentrations of the nicotinamide 

coenzymes NADH and 

NADPH decline with age in human 

and animal models. 44, 45, 46 Th ese 

cofactors are critical drivers of both 

catabolic and anabolic processes 

within cells including the production 

and maintenance of the dermis. In

Effect Of Niacinamide On Increase In Collagen Synthesis In Human Dermal Fibroblasts 

particular, niacinamide supplementation 

has been shown to stimulate 

collagen synthesis in human dermal 

fi broblasts, 47 an eff ect that would be 

of particular signifi cance in aged and 

photodamaged skin. 

Multiple clinical studies have demonstrated 

the positive eff ects of niacinamide-containing 

moisturizers on the 

appearance of wrinkles and fi ne lines 

in aging skin. 29, 48 In one, 29 a 12-week 

randomized, split-face trial, 50 female 

subjects applied blind-coded product 

Total protein Total collagen 

Collagen: total 

protein ratio 

500uM niacinamide 41% 54% 35% 

These data demonstrate that niacinamide treatment has a positive effect on collagen production relative to 

control and that there is specifi city for collagen biosynthesis and secretion relative to other cellular proteins. 

BETTER 

Change in fine lines/wrinkles area vs. baseline 

5.00 – 

0.00 – 

-5.00 – 

-10.00 – 

-15.00 – 

-20.00 

followed by image analysis. Signifi cant 

improvements were seen in several 

facial parameters including appearance 

of fi ne lines and wrinkles (p=0.06 at 

week 8 and 0.0005 at week 12). 

In another study, 40 female subjects 

applied blind-coded products in a 

split-face design for 12 weeks. Significant 

improvements in skin texture 

including fi ne line appearance were 

observed in niacinamide-treated skin 

at both four and 12 weeks of treatment 

(p

Peptides 

Th e use of peptides in commercial 

products has signifi cantly risen in 

recent years. Known to play a role in 

wound-healing, naturally occurring 

peptides in the skin have been shown in 

vitro to: (1) stimulate the production 

of extracellular matrix components 

including collagen, elastin and fi bronectin 

and (2) decrease the production 

of dermal GAGs. 49, 50 Decreased 

dermal matrix components and 

increased dermal GAGs are hallmark 

features of aged skin, 51 the reversal of 

which has been hypothesized as a viable 

approach to anti-aging. 

With variations in amino acid 

sequence, number of amino acids 

and use of derivatives of these acids, 

there are limitless combinations of 

possible peptides. By testing the eff ect 

of multiple peptides on the synthesis 

of collagen in culture, scientists 

at the University of Tennessee 

49, 50 

narrowed the fi eld of possible amino 

acid combinations to a pentapeptide 

fragment of pro-collagen, KTTKS 

(lysine-threonine-threonine-lysineserine). 

Th is peptide retained 80% 

of the collagen-stimulating activity 

of the original, much larger 34–44 

amino acid pro-collagen peptide 

from which it was derived. 

Because transdermal delivery of ionic 

peptides is likely to pose a signifi cant 

issue for delivery of bioactive peptide 

into the skin, a palmitoyl derivative 


Collagen synthesis (% of control) 

250 – 

200 – 

150 – 

100 – 

50 – 

0 

Control 4ppm pal-KTTKS 

In cell culture experiments, pal-KTTKS increases 

collagen synthesis. 

– 

– 

of KTTKS (pal-KTTKS) was used, 

which capitalizes on research conducted 

on peptides to improve transcutaneous 

delivery. 52 

Consistent with the collagenstimulating 

eff ects of the underivatized 

KTTKS, pal-KTTKS promotes 

the production of collagen in organotypic 

cultures of human skin cells. 24 

In addition, pal-KTTKS eff ectively 

reduces dermal GAGs at 1/10 th the 

dose of trans-retinoic acid (tRA). 53 

Th e promotion of these eff ects in 

vitro are consistent with the antiaging 

strategy proposed above. 

Multiple clinical studies have demonstrated 

the signifi cant eff ect of formu 

lations containing pal-KTTKS on 

wrinkle reduction and facial appearance 

improvement. In one study, 54 

60 subjects were treated for four 

months in a split-faced doubleblinded 

trial. Th e pal-KTTKS 

test product produced signifi cant 

% reduction in GAGs 

% change over 4 months 

70 – 

60 – 

50 – 

40 – 

30 – 

20 – 

10 – 

0 

5 – 

0 – 

-5 – 

-10 – 

-15 – 

-20 – 

-25 – 

-30 – 

-35 – 

-40 

0.9ppm 

pal-KTTKS 

% change vs. To p< 0.01 % change vs. To p< 0.015 

Wrinkle volume 

(μm 3 ) 

– 

5 – 

0 – 

-5 – 

-10 – 

-15 – 

-20 – 

-25 – 

-30 

¢ pal-KTTKS 

¢ tRA control 

10ppm tRA 

(*10ppm = 0.001%) 

In in vitro cell culture experiments, pal-KTTKS 

reduces GAGs comparably at 1/10 th the dose of 

tRA (10 ppm = 0.001%). 

¢ pal-KTTKS 

¢ Vehicle 

Wrinkle depth 

(μm) 

Moisturizer containing pal-KTTKS decreases both 

wrinkle volume and depth following 4 months of 

treatment. 

– 

improve ments versus the vehicle in 

wrinkle volume and wrinkle depth 

at two- and four-month time points. 

Results were based on quantitative 

image analysis of skin replicas. 

In another split-face double-blinded 

study of 92 subjects, 27 signifi cant

improvements were seen in wrinkle 

appearance (week 12 p=

16 Fine Lines, Wrinkles and Texture: Research Update 

Infl ammatory 

Responses & 

Their Relationship 

to Skin 

Infl ammatory responses, which occur 

in the vascularized connective tissue, 

are intended to be protective, destroying 

the organism of both the initial 

cause of cell injury (e.g., microbes, 

toxins) and the consequences of 

such injury (e.g., necrotic cells and 

tissues). Without infl ammation, 

infections would go unchecked and 

wounds would not heal; however, the 

process of infl ammation and repair 

can also be harmful. Infl ammatory 

mechanisms play a key role in the 

pathogenesis of chronic conditions 

including cardiovascular disease, 

colorectal cancer, stroke, type 2 diabetes, 

COPD and Alzheimer’s disease. 

It is also increasingly recognized 

as a potent independent predictor 

of all-cause mortality. Th e risk of 

chronic infl ammation correlates with 

increasing age and certain lifestyle 

factors, including smoking, obesity 

and poor dietary patterns. 

Th e term “infl ammaging” was coined 

by Claudio Franceschi 58 to describe 

the cascade of autoimmune infl ammatory 

responses that lead to chronic 

low-level infl ammation. Infl ammaging 

is a useful clinical construct 

because we know that all the major 

diseases associated with aging share 

an infl ammatory pathogenesis. Th e 

defi ning characteristic of infl ammaging 

is an up-regulation of multiple 

anti-stress responses at the cellular 

and molecular level. Th is rampant 

up-regulation of anti-stress responses 

in turn leads to the accumulation of 

molecular and cellular scars. 

Th e biological processes that characterize 

infl ammaging are also applicable 

to skin, as we are gaining an 

increased awareness of the importance 

of chronic infl ammation in the 

promotion of skin aging. Activated 

infl ammatory cells resulting from elevations 

in circulating pro-infl ammatory 

hormones (e.g., prostaglandins, 

cytokines, histamines) eff ectively 

produce ROS that cause oxidative 

damage to nucleic acids, cellular proteins 

and lipids. Accumulated ROS 

stimulates a host of cytokine cascades 

that result in photoaging and 

photocarcinogenesis. Th ese changes 

are directly tied to the appearance of 

aging skin. 5 

Putting the Pieces Together: 

Genomics, Infl ammation 

& Skin Aging 

Utilizing the sophisticated tools of 

genomics, P&G Beauty researchers 

are learning more about infl ammatory 

pathways and their eff ects on 

skin aging. One of these research 

endeavors was presented by Michael 

Robinson, PhD, at the 21 st World 

Congress of Dermatology. 59 Th e

study compared the sun-exposed skin 

of the forearm and the sun-unexposed 

skin of the buttocks in both 

young and older clinical test subjects. 

Gene chip technology allowed the 

researchers to identify exact processes 

and metabolic pathways that were 

diff erent in young versus old skin. 

Additionally, it allowed scientists to 

identify pathways that were active in 

young skin but were inactive in old 

skin as well as pathways that were 

overly active in the older skin, such 

as infl ammation. 

Genes observed in the older clinical 

test subjects shared consistent 

themes, including: 

• Immune and infl ammatory re - 

sponse genes were up-regulated 

• Extra-cellular matrix genes were 

up-regulated, though photoaging 

was more commonly associated 

with collagen gene changes and 

Summary 

Wrinkles, fi ne lines and uneven skin texture are 

persistent and universal concerns of aging patients, particularly 

women. But new innovations in topical treatments 

are allowing these concerns to be addressed both 

through preventative care, specifi cally the inclusion of 

ingredients that protect against UV-related damage, 

and restorative skin creams that deliver anti-aging 

benefi ts. Ingredients that have been shown to unequivocally 

deliver wrinkle, fi ne line and texture benefi ts 

include niacinamide, peptides, retinyl propionate and 

N-acetyl glucosamine. 

chronological skin aging with keratin 

gene changes 

• Protease/peptidase activity was upregulated 

• Oxidoreductase activity and epidermal 

development process genes 

were down-regulated 

Th e overarching theme, of course, is 

that an infl ammatory response was 

observed in older and photodamaged 

skin. By understanding how 

specifi c genes are modulated by the 

aging process, scientists now have the 

means to tailor treatments to shut 

down those processes which age the 

skin considerably. 

Th is study is just the beginning of 

the potential that is possible through 

gene chip technology. Th rough an 

analysis of these pathways at the gene 

expression level, these researchers 

are making discoveries that will ultimately 

lead to advances in cosmetic 

options for consumers. Spurred 

by the promising fi ndings to date, 

P&G Beauty scientists are continuing 

to explore this new frontier across 

multiple research end points. For 

the growing ranks of patients who 

seek non-invasive solutions to common 

dermatological problems, gene 

chip technology provides an understanding 

of skin aging never before 

possible, and, in doing so, off ers 

extraordinary potential for improving 

topical anti-aging treatments. 

This fi gure is illustrative of the combined effects 

of aging and photodamage at the gene expression 

level. The blue color indicates genes that 

are down-regulated; red, up-regulated; and white 

indicates no change. It is clear that there are large 

clusters of genes that are differentially regulated 

in young versus older photodamaged skin. 

Th rough refi ned applications of complex sciences and 

advanced technologies, P&G Beauty researchers are 

gaining a more complete picture of the underlying biological 

processes at work in aging skin. Th is methodological 

process has led to the ability to identify gene 

targets and tailor topical interventions accordingly. One 

dominant theme that has emerged is the age-related 

process of infl ammation, and thought leaders predict 

future anti-aging research and treatments will further 

expand upon and apply this body of knowledge. 

Fine Lines, Wrinkles and Texture: Research Update 17

eferences 

1. Gupta M, Gilchrest B. Psychosocial aspects of aging skin. 

Dermatologic Clinics 2005; 23: 643-648. 

2. Jenkins G. Molecular mechanisms of skin ageing. Mech 

Ageing Dev 2002; 123: 801-810. 

3. Gilchrest BA. Skin aging and photoaging. J Am Acad 

Dermatol 1989; 21: 610–613. 

4. Niedernhofer LJ, et al. A new progeroid syndrome reveals 

that genotoxic stress suppresses the somatotroph axis. 

Nature 2006; 444: 1038-43. 

5. Bennett MF, Robinson MK, Baron ED, Cooper KD. Skin 

immune systems and infl ammation: Protector of the skin 

or promoter of aging? Pending publication. 2007. 

6. Gilchrest BA. In vitro assessment of keratinocyte ageing. 

J Invest Dermatol 1983; 81: 184s-189s. 

7. Wulf HC, Sandby-Moller J, Kobayasi T, Gniadecki R. 

Skin aging and natural photoprotection. Micron 2004; 35: 

185-191. 

8. West MD, Pereira-Smith OM, Smith JR. Replicative 

senescence of human skin fi broblasts correlates with 

loss of regulation and overexpression of collagenase 

activity. Exp. Cell Res 1989; 184: 138–147. 

9. Millis AJ, Hoyle M, McCue HM, Martini H. Differential 

express of metalloproteinase and tissue inhibitor of 

metalloproteinase genes in aged human fi broblasts. 

Exp Cell Res 1992; 201: 373-379. 

10. Wick M, Burger C, Brusselbach S, Lucibello FC, Muller 

R. A novel member of human tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases 

(TIMP) gene family is regulated during G1 

progression, mitogenic stimulation, differentiation and 

senescence. J Biol Chem 1994; 269:18953–18960. 


11. Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M, Phan SH, Kang 

S, Chung JH, et al. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell 

growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases 

and stimulates collagen accumulation in 

naturally aged human skin. J Invest Dermatol 2000; 114: 

480-6. 

12. Francis C, Robert L. Elastin and elastic fi bres in normal 

and pathologic skin. Int J Dermatol 1984; 23: 166-179. 

13. Lavker RM, Zheng P, Doug G. Aged skin: a study by light 

transmission electron and scanning electron microscopy. 

J Invest Dermatol 1987; 88: 44s-51s. 

14. Uitto J, Fazio MJ, Olsen DR. Molecular mechanisms of 

cutaneous ageing: age associated connective tissue 

alterations in the dermis. J Am Acad Dermatol 1989; 21: 

614-622. 

15. Kligman LH, Kligman AM. The nature of photoageing: 

its prevention and repair. Photodermatology 1986; 3: 

215–227. 

16. Gilchrest BA. Age associated changes in the skin. J Am 

Geriatr Soc 1982; 30: 139-142. 

17. Quan T, He T, Kang S, Voorhees JJ, Fisher GJ. Solar ultraviolet 

irradiation reduces collagen in photoaged human 

skin by blocking transforming growth factor-beta type II 

receptor/Smad signaling. Am J Pathol 2004; 165: 741-51. 

18. Lohwasser C, Neureiter D, Weigle B, Kirchner T, Schuppan 

D. The receptor for advanced glycation end products 

is highly expressed in the skin and upregulated by 

advanced glycation end products and tumor necrosis 

factor-alpha. J Invest Dermatol 2006; 126: 291-9. 

19. Ghersetich I, Lotti T, Campanile G, Grappone C, Dini G. 

Hyaluronic acid in cutaneous intrinsic aging. Int J 

Dermatol 1994; 33: 119-122. 

20. Schachtschabel DO, Wever J. Age-related decline in the 

synthesis of glycosaminoglycans by cultured human 

fi broblasts (WI-38). Mech Ageing Dev 1978; 8: 257-264.

eferences 

21. Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Saud A, Berge CA, Trejo AV, 

Biedermann KA. Topical niacinamide provides skin aging 

appearance benefi ts while enhancing barrier function. 

In: Baran R, Maibach HI, eds. Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology. 

Abingdon, Oxon, UK: Taylor & Francis Group. 

2005: 57-62. 

22. Griffi th M, Osborne R, Munger R, Xiong X, Doillon CJ, 

Laycock NLC, Hakim M, Song Y, Watsky MA. Functional 

human corneal equivalents constructed from cell lines. 

Science 1999; 286: 2169-2172. 

23. Bisset DL, Farmer T, McPhail S, Reichling T, Tiesman JP, 

Juhlin KD, Hurley GJ, Robinson MK. Genomic changes 

induced by topical N-acetyl glucosamine in skin equivalent 

cultures in vitro. Submitted for publication; 2007. 

24. Osborne R, Jarrold BB, Mullins LA. In Vitro Skin Matrix 

Responses to Anti-aging Compounds. Poster presented 

at the 65th American Academy of Dermatology Annual 

Meeting; Washington, DC, 2007. 

25. Osborne R, Mullins LA, Jarrold BB, McPhail S, Robinson L. 

Evaluation of Cosmetic Ingredients in Tissue Engineered 

Human Skin In Vitro. Poster presented at American Association 

for Advancing Science Annual Meeting; 2007. 

26. Bisset D, et al. Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide: effective 

agent to reduce the appearance of facial aging. 61st 

American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting; 

San Francisco, 2003. 

27. Robinson L, et al. Pentapeptide offers improvement in 

human photoaged facial skin. 61st American Academy 

of Dermatology Annual Meeting; San Francisco, 2003. 

28. Osborne R, Robinson L. Use of a facial moisturizer 

containing Pal-KTTKS peptide improves the appearance 

of aging skin. 63rd American Academy of Dermatology 

Annual Meeting; New Orleans, 2005. 

29. Bisset DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J, Berge CA. Topical 

niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, 

and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. 

Int J Cosmet Sci 2004; 26: 231-238. 

30. Bisset D, Oblong J, Saud A, et al. Topical niacinamide 

provides skin aging appearance benefi ts while enhancing 

barrier function. J Clin Dermatol 2003; 32S: 9-18. 

31. Bissett DL, Oblong JE. Cosmeceutical vitamins. In: 

Draelos ZD, ed. Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Elsevier 

Saunders. 2005: 57. 

32. Langsjoen, P. Introduction to Conenzyme q10. 

http://faculty.washington.edu/ely/coenzq10.html; 1994. 

33. Grosick TL, Tanner PR. Effi cacy as used, not as tested, 

is true measure of sunscreen performance. 62nd 

American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting; 

Washington, DC 2004. 

34. Betteridge J, et al. Visualising free radical inhibition from 

topically applied antioxidants. J Am Acad Dermatol 2007; 

56: AB24. 

35. Kang S, et al. Applications of retinol to human skin in 

vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid 

binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without 

measurable retinoic acid levels of irritation. J Invest 

Dermatol 1995; 105: 549-556. 

36. Fluhr J, et al. Tolerance profi le of retinol, retinaldehyde, 

and retinoic acid under maximized and long-term clinical 

conditions. Deramtol 1999; 1S: 57-60. 

37. Oblong JE, Abel Saud A, Bissett DL. Topical retinyl propionate 

improves photoaged facial skin with a favorable 

irritation profi le. Poster presented at American Academy 

of Dermatology Annual Meeting; 2002. 

38. Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, et al. The effect of 

niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and 

suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol 2002; 

147: 20-33. 

39. Bissett D. Topical niacinamide and barrier enhancement. 

Cutis 2002; 70S: 8-12. 


eferences 

40. Matts P, Oblong J, and Bissett D. A review of the range 

of effects of niacinamide in human skin. Int Fed Soc 

Cosmet Chem Mag 2002; 5: 285-289. 

41. Osborne R, Matsubara A, Biedermann K, Hillebrand G, 

Schnell B, Miyamoto K. Improvement in facial surface 

sebum and pore appearance with niacinamide. Poster 

presented at American Academy of Dermatology 

Meeting; 2003. 

42. Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K. The effect of 2% 

niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosm and 

Laser Therapy 2006; 8: 98-101. 

43. Draelos ZD, Ertel KD, Berge CA. Facilitating facial retinization 

through barrier improvement. Cutis 2006; 78:4: 

275-281. 

44. Jongkind JF, Verkerk A, Poot M. Glucose fl ux through the 

hexose monophosphate shunt and NADP(H) levels during 

in vitro ageing of human skin fi broblasts. Gerontology 

1987; 33: 281-286. 

45. Gilchrest BA, Yaar M. Aging and photoaging of the skin: 

observations at the cellular and molecular level. Br J Dermatol 

1992; 127 Suppl 41: 25-30. 

46. Seitz HK, Xu Y, Simanowski UA, Osswald B. Effect of age 

and gender on in vitro elimination, hepatic dehydrogenae 

activity and NAD+ availability in F344 rats. Res Exp 

Med 2001; 192: 205-212. 

47. Oblong JE, Bissett DL, Ritter JL, Kurtz KK, Schnicker MS. 

Niacinamide stimulates collagen synthesis from human 

dermal fi broblasts and differentiation marker in normal 

human epidermal keatinocytes: potential of niacinamide 

to normalize aged skin cells to correct homeostatic 

balance. 59th Annual Meeting American Academy of 

Dermatology; Washington, DC, 2001. 

48. Matts P, Solechnick ND. Predicting visual perception of 

human skin surface texture using multiple-angle refl ectance 

spectrophotometry. 59th Annual Meeting American 

Academy of Dermatology; Washington, DC, 2001. 


49. Lintner K. Promoting ECM production without compromising 

barrier. Ann Dermatol Venereol 2002; 129: 1S105. 

50. Lintner K. Promoting production in the extracellular 

matrix without compromising barrier. Cutis 2002; 70S: 

13-16. 

51. Kligman A, Baker T, Gordan H. Long-term histologic follow-up 

of phenol face peels. Plas Recon Surg 1975; 75: 

652-659. 

52. Foldvari M, Attah-Poku S, Hu J, et al. Palmitoyl derivatives 

of interferon alpha: potent for cutaneous delivery. 

J Pharm Sci 1998; 87: 1203-1208. 

53. P&G Beauty data on fi le 

54. Mas-Chamberlin C, Lintner K, Basset L, Adhoute H, 

Revuz J. Relevance of antiwrinkle treatment of a peptide: 

4 months clinical double blind study vs. excipient. Ann 

Dermatol Venereol 2002; 129: 1S456. 

55. Robinson L, Fitzgerald N, Doughty D, Dawes N, Berge 

C, Bissett D. Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides 

improvement in photoaged human facial skin. Int J 

Cosmetic Sci 2005; 27: 155-160. 



58. Franceschi C, Bonafe M, Valensin S, Olivieri F, De Luca M, 

Ottaviani E, De Benedictis G. Infl ammaging. An evolutionary 

perspective on immunosenescence. Ann N Y 

Acad Sci 2000; 908: 244-54. 

59. Robinson MK, Berge CA, Hartman SM, Hurley GJ, Juhlin 

KD, Tiesman JP, Torontali SM, Binder RL. Immune and 

infl ammatory gene expression profi les of chronological 

(intrinsic) skin aging and photoaging. Poster to be presented 

at 21st World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos 

Aires, Argentina; 2007.

AN ADDITIONAL TOOL 

The Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture: Research Update 

CD holds a PowerPoint presentation of the charts and 

illustrations in this toolkit. Feel free to use the images. 

Please credit P&G Beauty.

CONTACT INFORMATION 

To talk with a P&G scientist or 

to learn more about ongoing 

research in the Beauty Science 

division, visit pgbeautyscience.com, 

or contact: 

Dianna Kenneally 

P&G Beauty Science 

513-626-3508 

Heather Cunningham 

P&G Beauty Science 

513-626-2606

Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Texture Research Update - P&G Beauty ...

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?