Issue 188, Summer 2009 - Telegraph Hill Dwellers

Restaurant ReviewNOT JUST A CHOPHOUSEBy Carol PetersonJoe DiMaggio’s, 601 Union St., San Francisco415.421.5633My girlfriend and I were at the new Fiord’Italia, reminiscing about the old Fiord’Italia—now Joe DiMaggio’s—when shemade a categorical statement. “Joe DiMaggio’s hasthe best Happy Hour in town. The food and drinksare terrific and it is so reasonable.” Now, this piquedmy interest as I have always thought of Joe’s as achophouse, with a big ticket after the meal. AlthoughI had eaten at the restaurant on a couple of occasions,it was always the well designed bar with its casualatmosphere that, for me, had special allure. And whowouldn’t feel comfortable keeping company withMarilyn and Joe?So we visited Joe DiMaggio’s one quiet week dayevening to check out the source of my friend’s excitement.There is indeed a Happy Hour, 3 to 6, Tuesdaythrough Saturday, when all drinks and food on themenu are $5 each. On Sundays the same menu andprices apply all day long, and a jazz group entertainsfrom 6 to 9.We started with drinks: First, the Flame ofLove, made with Triple Five Vodka with a peel oforange that is set on fire to enhance its essence. Agreat start. But the best drink in the house is theHemingway Daiquiri, made with Superior Rum,Maraschino cherry liqueur, fresh grapefruit and limejuice. If this was, in fact, “Papa” Ernest’s creation, hecould have had a second career as a mixologist.Both of the Happy Hour salads are deliciousand a bargain at $5. The chopped salad consists ofromaine, tomatoes, olives, cucumber, red grapes andPoint Reyes blue cheese. It has a light oil and champagnevinegar dressing. The classic Caesar salad isjust that, with shaved imported parmesancheese, white anchovies and adelectable creamy dressing.Four very thin crusted pizzas are offered, butthe standout is the Baked Cambozola Cheese Pizza.It comes with an olive oil basted crust. In the centersits a very generous baked pastry covered Cambozolasquare of cheese, a generous dollop of finely choppedsun dried tomatoes and a whole roasted garlic. Thediner squeezes the garlic and rubs its buttery clove onthe crust, then spreads the oozing cheese and tomatoes.The presentation is beautiful and the conceptunusual. The result: one of the best tasting pizzas Ihave had.If you are a lover of a thick crust and are reallyhungry, the Sausage Calzone, with fennel sausage,olives, caramelized onion, spinach and ricotta is yourdish. It is complimented by a sparse, light, freshtomato sauce.DiMaggio’s General Manager, Brian Keene, joinedus to answer questions about what inspired this wonderfulidea of a complete $5 menu. He told us that therestaurant wanted to create cost effective lighter fare togo with the bar atmosphere. “We wanted to combinevery good food and a very good price.”We also met Tracey Rice, the Special EventsManager. She told us DiMaggio’s had fashioned apre fixe menu for $34.95, a 3 course menu that caninclude a fillet mignon offering. Tracy laughed, “Ofcourse, this is not for the guy who is looking for thebig Porterhouse, but most of our customers love thefilet.”Some night after work, when you are tired andwant to relax and enjoy a bite to eat, stop by JoeDiMaggio’s and say hello to Marilyn for me.22 Issue #188 • Summer 2009