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Petite & top heavy - Caryn Franklin's How to Look Good

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<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s<strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong><strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong><strong>Petite</strong>& <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong><strong>heavy</strong><strong>Caryn</strong>’s own personaladvice will help you wear yourclothes confidently foreverMain illustrations by Debra Parkinson


ContentsHOW TO USE THIS BOOKAll the clothing featuresmarked with this symbol areright for your body shape.All the clothing featuresmarked with this symbol are<strong>to</strong> be avoided, as they areunflattering for yourbody shape.All the clothing featuresmarked with this symbol areones <strong>to</strong> try and decide onmerit as the cut and style willvary in each s<strong>to</strong>re.© 2011 how<strong>to</strong>lookgood.com, aproduct of Brilliant ProductionsLtd. All rights reserved. Reproductionin whole or in part withoutpermission is prohibited.Detail illustrations byKim CarbonariContentsIntroduction 3Step OneStyle over fashion 16Action PlanStyle detective 21Step TwoRemember you are unique and individual 24Action PlanBe your own wardrobe mistress 28Step ThreeKnow your body symmetry 31Step FourClothing design in general 32Briefing<strong>How</strong> many uniforms do you have? 39Step FiveColour 41Action PlanCreate a stunning wardrobe on a budget 48Step SixPrint and pattern 51BriefingShop like <strong>Caryn</strong> 56Step SevenAccessories 58Step EightWould you like <strong>to</strong> look taller? 71Step NineSubtle lines 72BriefingAre models happier with their bodies? 73Step TenWe’ve come <strong>to</strong> the end of your workshop 75<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 2


IntroductionIntroductionWelcome <strong>to</strong> your own <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> personalisedstyle advice. You have chosen petite and <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> <strong>heavy</strong>.In the following pages I will show you how <strong>to</strong> choose clothes <strong>to</strong> suityour individual body shape. This is crucial for confidence. Knowing youhave chosen clothes that showcase your body in the best possiblelight, you can relax and enjoy yourself, free <strong>to</strong> be yourself or the personyou want <strong>to</strong> be.In this book I want <strong>to</strong> share with you my styling <strong>to</strong>ols. To do this clearly,I have broken down the book in<strong>to</strong> many different sections. In fact I’mreplicating the workshop I have given over the years for you <strong>to</strong> takepart in in the comfort of your own home!These are the styling <strong>to</strong>ols I use as a professional stylist when I amworking with ordinary women. Having seen these <strong>to</strong>ols make sucha difference over the years, I can honestly say that the skills you willacquire as you work through this book will make you think differentlyabout clothes for the rest of your days.I have been very careful <strong>to</strong> explain these <strong>to</strong>ols concisely and clearly.They appear as bullet points for the simple reason that I want you <strong>to</strong>absorb them for immediate use when you are shopping and of coursewhen you are dressing.Do you know how <strong>to</strong> read clothes?Have a look at this drawing. It contains some basic clothingfeatures. Do you ever think about the features on the clothesyou are buying? All will be explained later in the book.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 3


IntroductionI’ve also included action plans in the order that you should carrythem out for maximum effectiveness. There are three in the book; theyare very specific and, if you follow them, your will have a much moreorganised approach <strong>to</strong> your image.Throughout this e-book I will provide illustrations of the type ofclothes you should prioritise. Because fashion changes so rapidly thesedays, I have stripped away information that is <strong>to</strong>o trend orientedbecause I think it is more effective if I tell you what each aspect of yourclothing will do for you. That way you can prioritise clothes with thefeatures that suit you.Finally, in working behind the scenes in the fashion industry, I havelearned a lot about femininity and the way the industry viewsfemininity. I want <strong>to</strong> pass this on <strong>to</strong> you, <strong>to</strong> empower you. Wheneveryou feel insecure about the way you look (as happens <strong>to</strong> all of us fromtime <strong>to</strong> time when changes surprise us) re-read these features <strong>to</strong>remind you of the real deal.After you have read this book I know you will feel you canrevolutionise your image with the knowledge of a stylist. Thinking abouthow clothes work and the qualities they will bring <strong>to</strong> your body is thebest place <strong>to</strong> start. This is information that will last you for the rest ofyour life.Do you know how <strong>to</strong> read clothes?Here are more clothing features I want <strong>to</strong> discuss.Understanding how <strong>to</strong> choose clothes with features thatwill flatter your shape is crucial and something I will explainin detail as we get further in <strong>to</strong> the book.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 4


IntroductionRound neckNecklinesNecklines can be anexcellent way ofelongating your neck. Thereare many clever tricks youcan work with a well chosenneckline. A high neckline, forinstance, has great benefits<strong>to</strong> a slender or petite body.A low neckline will alwayswork for fuller shapes. For<strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>-<strong>heavy</strong> shapes your bestever styling <strong>to</strong>ol will be thenecklines you chooseso read on for my triedand tested guide.Round neckThis is a softly rounded neck tha<strong>to</strong>ften appears on t-shirts, shift dressesor fine knitwear.First of allI have met so many women just like you who are looking <strong>to</strong> create animage that reflects who they are. One of the reasons it seems <strong>to</strong> be sodifficult is that the things we feel about our bodies and our image isconstantly manipulated by the media. We are encouraged <strong>to</strong> thinkabout dieting, <strong>to</strong>ning, looking younger, looking better and of course weare shown pictures of beautiful women looking effortlessly stunning. Asa result many women feel at odds with their bodies and spend a lot oftime focussing upon their imperfections.Your best travelling companion through this e-book will be youracceptance of your own body. Whatever its shape, it is healthy and it isyours. It is doing its best <strong>to</strong> support you through the day with a myriadof clever functions that you take for granted. Sadly many of us aren’tin <strong>to</strong>uch with this and forget that, before it is a clothes-horse, it is asophisticated biological miracle! Clothes then are the icing on the cake.Use them <strong>to</strong> celebrate all that you can be <strong>to</strong> yourself and others!Now then!I believe that styling is all about knowing your body and understandinghow <strong>to</strong> use clothes and accessories <strong>to</strong> flatter. As a professional stylist,my job is one part clothes know-how and two parts clothescounselling! We all have insecurities and comfort zones, which arethere for a reason and clothes can work as a variety of things <strong>to</strong> oneperson – from camouflage or comfort blanket <strong>to</strong> corporate uniform.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 5


IntroductionBallerina neckSquare neckBallerina neckThis is a high wrap that generally has lessdepth than an ordinary v-neckline. Youwill find it in knitwear or <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s.Square neckThis can be found in <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s, dresses andoccasionally in knitwear.A horizontal line running acrossthe <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> of the body will accentuatebroadness and width.Avoid if you have square shoulders.If I were spending time with you, I would find out how you feel aboutyour body and how you have chosen <strong>to</strong> dress. Then I would set aboutchanging some of the visual boundaries you have cemented in place.I’ve often been <strong>to</strong>ld ‘I don’t do girly,’ ‘I’m <strong>to</strong>o big <strong>to</strong> wear that’ or ‘I don’thave the body for that. ’ These and many other rules we make forourselves need <strong>to</strong> be gently challenged; further in the book you will seemy responses <strong>to</strong> the things you tell me.Many women I work with also say how frustrating it is that thefashion industry seems <strong>to</strong> change its ideas and designs so frequently. Sojust when you have found a style or colour that suits you, you can’t besure of finding it the next season when the new ideas arrive. Similarly,fashion magazines often talk in seasons - telling you one thing oneseason only <strong>to</strong> change their ideas the next. The fact is, fashioninformation changes every season. There is no other industry I canthink of that puts out a different set of rules every six months. Imaginecookery writers telling you a brand new way <strong>to</strong> make a cake eachseason with completely different ingredients depending on whichingredients were seasonally approved. Or what about a gardeningmagazine that would recommend you change all the plants in yourgarden each season. It’s that spooky!Yet we receive the fashion industry in<strong>to</strong> our lives on that very basis.Of course change is good and making changes that feel right can beliberating. Feeling like you are forced <strong>to</strong> make changes, however,is not fun.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 6


IntroductionCrew neck Crew neckThis is a fitted neckline, which hugs thebase of the neck. It is usually found onknitwear. A high neckline like this willalways make a neck look shorter.What I want <strong>to</strong> do is show you how <strong>to</strong> build a confident idea of whatwill work for you so that, although you read magazines and take in theever changing fashion information, you can now always make thechoices that are right for you, regardless of what is on the catwalkevery few months. This is information that you can use for the rest ofyour days and step out forever more in the knowledge that youlook fantastic.So let’s get down <strong>to</strong> business. I work with many different types ofwomen. I haven’t met one who doesn’t have set ideas about her styleor body. Some I may agree with and others I will attempt <strong>to</strong> changebecause they are based on outdated ideas she has about herself.These are some of the more common ones; perhaps there any somehere you recognise?I don’t do girlyI don’t want <strong>to</strong> look like mut<strong>to</strong>n dressed as lambI only wear trousersI don’t want anyone <strong>to</strong> see my tummyI hate the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s of my armsI only wear casualI don’t want <strong>to</strong> look like I’ve tried <strong>to</strong>o hard<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 7


IntroductionV neckScoop neckV-neckThis is an elegant neckline with av- shaped drop. A high v-neck is oftenfound in knitwear and a lowerv-neck is found in Lycra <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s, wrap<strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s or wrap dresses.V-necks work well <strong>to</strong> create a sense ofelongation from the neck <strong>to</strong> the chest. Av-neck is a great <strong>to</strong>ol <strong>to</strong> create a moreswan-like neck. It will also create aminimising shape around the bust.Scoop neckThis is a low round shaped necklinethat looks like a semi-circle. It isflattering <strong>to</strong> all shapes and will give an elegantneckline and more attention <strong>to</strong> thebustline whether or not there is cleavage.These hard and fast rules can be obstructive. Do you really need themor are you just protecting yourself from the unknown? Changing youroutfit <strong>to</strong> something you wouldn’t normally wear can have a bigemotional impact; perhaps it’s this you feel the need <strong>to</strong> avoid.I don’t do girlyIf this means you prefer a dramatic look with more graphic fabrics anda more androgynous take on style from time <strong>to</strong> time - great! You havecreated a signature for yourself. I identify with this <strong>to</strong>o. If, however, thismeans you feel uncomfortable in anything feminine like skirts ordresses and heels or even dainty <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s, florals and pretty colours, thenyou are missing out on some fun.You are not an attention seeking floozie by celebrating yourfemininity with some colour and sensuality. Try <strong>to</strong> move yourself out ofyour familiar comfort zone incrementally by focussing on a softer look.A skirt with flat strappy sandals and a t-shirt should be your first step.Give your legs and feet a little preparation before you try on a skirt;that way you can’t fall back on excuses about your body not beingsuited <strong>to</strong> skirts. Once you have tried this and worn it a few times youwill begin <strong>to</strong> graduate <strong>to</strong> the next item of clothing.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 8


IntroductionSweetheart neckmandarin neckSweetheart neckThis is usually found in clothing that hasno ‘give’ like cot<strong>to</strong>n, satin or silk becausethe design must hold its shape. Theshoulder will drop vertically then a daintycurved line runs over each breast.This works wonderfully <strong>to</strong> feminise any<strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> that it appears on. Short or full necksbenefit from a sense of elongation.Mandarin neckThis is a high collar that dips at thecentre and is always found on a garmentthat fastens through the middle. It has avery but<strong>to</strong>ned up almost strict feel andoften appears as a silk garment.I don’t want <strong>to</strong> look like mut<strong>to</strong>n dressed as lambIf by that you mean you will avoid certain styles that show <strong>to</strong>o muchflesh, now that you are getting older, along with prioritising clothes thathave a certain quality <strong>to</strong> them and look well made, then you have theright approach. If, however, you mean you don’t want <strong>to</strong> wear anythingcolourful or playful and especially not anything trend oriented, then youare presupposing that getting older involves becoming invisible. There isnothing so effective as a woman who uses the right amount of acurrent trend <strong>to</strong> invigorate her look.I only wear trousers.You may have a job that makes trousers very necessary or you maybelieve your legs should never be allowed <strong>to</strong> see the light of day, inwhich case the pic<strong>to</strong>rial skirt guide further down will make a bigdifference. If it’s because you just don’t understand what <strong>to</strong> put withskirts, I suggest that you have got caught in the ‘unsuitable footwear’trap…What I mean by this is that, even if you think for a momentabout not wearing trousers, you get stuck because you don’t knowwhat <strong>to</strong> put on your feet – since all your shoes work for trousers.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 9


IntroductionSlash neckpolo neckSlash neckThis is a neckline that appears <strong>to</strong> gostraight across the body fromshoulder <strong>to</strong> shoulder. It will widen theshoulder area and in some cases canshorten the appearance of the neck.Especially good for smallsloping shoulders.Avoid if you have large orsquare shoulders.Polo neckThis is nearly always found in knitwear asa fine gauge piece of knitting.I don’t want anyone <strong>to</strong> see my tummy/I hatethe <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s of my armsThese comments and many others mean that you just opt <strong>to</strong> cover thebody up in layers of fabric and hope no one will see the shape you areunderneath. It may be that you have spent a long time focussing on thething you least like about your body and forgetting <strong>to</strong> focus instead onthe things you do like about your body.Make a list now of all your good points and let these be the thingsyou draw attention <strong>to</strong>, while you use the effective <strong>to</strong>ols outlined in thisbook <strong>to</strong> minimise or camouflage the things you don’t like.Avoid if you have a short neck.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 10


IntroductionPierre Cardin style’ collarCollar Pierre Cardinstyle’ collarThis is a folded and stiff collar that sitsaround the collarbone. It has theappearance of making the neck seemelegantly slender because it is so muchwider. It also creates width at theshoulder area.CollarThere is a huge variety of collars <strong>to</strong>choose from, the most common beingthe straight collar that encloses theneck when it is done up. Other shapesincluded the rounded collar and thePeter Pan collar.I only wear casualIs this because you have lost confidence in your ability <strong>to</strong> pull off amore structured look or is it <strong>to</strong> hide the fact that you just don’t knowwhat <strong>to</strong> choose <strong>to</strong> flatter your shape? Casual wear, great though it isfor downtime, is usually shapeless and non descript; is this how yousee yourself? This book will show you how <strong>to</strong> choose clothes that havedrama, femininity and structure and put them <strong>to</strong>gether!I don’t want <strong>to</strong> look like I’ve tried <strong>to</strong>o hardSome women put a lot of effort in<strong>to</strong> their appearance but it stilldoesn’t pay off because they haven’t unders<strong>to</strong>od the basics. But youwon’t have that problem. The most important thing about your stylechoices from now on is that they will look effortless, so let’s begin.The small collar will always make thebust area underneath it appear larger.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 11


IntroductionShirt collarPlunge necklineTeardrop neckline Cowl neckline Large polo neckShirt collarThis is worn undone <strong>to</strong> create a softand blurred v-neckline. And there isn’ta woman in the land who will not lookgood in a fitted shirt, which is sexilyundone (how much depends on thesituation and you).Search for a good fit so that itcan become a staple in your wardrobe.Plunge necklineThis neckline will have varying degrees ofplunge from cleavage <strong>to</strong> ribcage.Obviously a good bra or great <strong>to</strong>ne iscrucial. The key is all in the depth of the<strong>to</strong>ne; never show so much breast thatit becomes an eyeful. A plunge necklinerequires an excellent bra but can also becarried off by wearinganotherlayer underneath.Teardrop necklineThis style is effectively like a highboat neck but has an extra teardropshape cut out that may or may notshow cleavage.Often found in fitted evening <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s orlooser jersey style <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s. This is a great<strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> for all heights and shapes. Avoid ifyou have low slung breasts.Cowl necklineThis is scoop neckline with an extra layerof fabric that hangs loosely over the bust<strong>to</strong> add volume. It will bulk up the bustarea and draw the eye <strong>to</strong> it.Large polo neckThis neckline always appears on a chunkypiece of knitwear and can stand up fairlystiff around the neck in a wide circle.The volume of fabric around the neckwill work <strong>to</strong> make the neck seemsmaller or daintier and because it isloose and low the neck itself will alwayslook graceful.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 12


IntroductionBriefingYou are petite. This need not be your definingcharacteristic but it may be something that you aresubconsciously much more influenced by than yourealise when it comes <strong>to</strong> defining your look.Further on in the book we will discuss your body shape in more detailand I have many tricks for flattering your individual silhouette, as youwill see, but let me outline a few key things that will have influencedyour style up <strong>to</strong> this point.You sometimes wear oversized clothes that look like they don’t quitefit you.You feel you can never look authoritative enough.You like colour and pattern but find it can make you look childlike and,because you want <strong>to</strong> avoid that, you stick <strong>to</strong> darks and plains.Fashion confuses you. It might look all right on models but you can’twork it in <strong>to</strong> your wardrobe.I’ve worked with a lot of women who say they feel short andinsignificant and have no idea of how <strong>to</strong> use clothes <strong>to</strong> create theillusion of height.As you work your way through this book, you will learn how <strong>to</strong> pickclothes confidently but first let me empower you immediately withsome key points.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 13


IntroductionAdd colour <strong>to</strong> your wardrobe. But consider your choices so that thecolours you choose have a level of sophistication. Any flat colour thatlooks as though it could have been used as part of a school uniformchoice needs <strong>to</strong> be avoided – you will look like a schoolchild yourself ina primary or royal blue for instance. Seek out the more contemporary<strong>to</strong>ne. Iced colours are better than pastels; rich opulent hues lookmores sophisticated then washed out flat <strong>to</strong>nes.Consider fabrics and the qualities they have. And be aware that manygarments are made of materials with sheens, metallic finishes and handmade,uneven weaves. Too many different fabrics on your body willlook indecisive and cluttered.Choose clothes that have definition. Children’s clothes are oftencheaply made and are plain. Never wear a plain t-shirt, for instance,when you can wear a <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> that has a feature around the upper body <strong>to</strong>create focus and pick a neckline that will flatter your shoulders andbust line. Check the illustrations on neckline <strong>to</strong> see which shape is rightfor you and implement it now!Stand in front of the mirror and check you are wearing your skirtlength high enough. Lifting the hem an inch higher could make all thedifference because it’s about balance and, if your skirt is <strong>to</strong>o long, it willimmediately make your legs look shorter.Do use our specially compiled ‘petite’ direc<strong>to</strong>ry so that we can connectyou with online retailers who offer you a great product <strong>to</strong> build awardrobe full of stylish clothes.These basics are crucial <strong>to</strong> keep in mind, apply them and all the otherbody shape tips you are about <strong>to</strong> receive <strong>to</strong> the illustrations of clothesI show you. Lets move on <strong>to</strong> ‘Step one.’<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 15


Step OneBardot style necklineStep One. Style over fashionShouldersShoulder styles are only anissue for those of you whofeel you have large shouldersand want <strong>to</strong> minimise, or, forthose of you who have smallorsloping shoulders where youwant <strong>to</strong> create the effect ofa squarer more in proportionshape. For square or largeshoulders remember theapproved designs will be twiceas effective when teamed witha skirt that has the ability <strong>to</strong>widen the bot<strong>to</strong>m half of thebody. This will give your bodybalance and even up yourproportions.Bardot style neckThis <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> has the widest of all necklines andwas popularised by the actress BrigitteBardot. It often has a stretchy element<strong>to</strong> it, so that a ribbed band can hug theshoulders and not fall down. It is wornwith nothing underneath for a very alluringlook (strapless bra required or a bra withmatching bra straps that are viewed fora contemporary feel). It is also seen witha contrasting vest underneath making it awhole lot more practical <strong>to</strong> wear forevery day. This band will widen yourshoulders and give your body afeeling of foreshortening.My most important piece of advice <strong>to</strong> you is <strong>to</strong> celebrate yourstrengths and play down your weaknesses; this is done by beingcritical about what fashion has <strong>to</strong> offer each season and whetherit will work for you.Unless you are very young, I feel very strongly that STYLISH shouldbe your aim. You need <strong>to</strong> know what the trends are when you arebuying clothes - of course this helps - but you don’t need <strong>to</strong> look like afashion spread. There are all kinds of debates about style and whetherit can be bought or learned. Let’s think…there are plenty of richpeople with no style whatsoever so it can’t be bought. And there areplenty of women with a limited budget who always seem <strong>to</strong> look goodso it definitely isn’t expensive.Most telling is when someone has unders<strong>to</strong>od what suits them andwears clothing <strong>to</strong> suit their individual body shape and this is somethingyou can learn once you are familiar with your body and able <strong>to</strong> selectthe styles you need <strong>to</strong> create the right balance for your body shape.Style is what other women will notice and admire about you so makethat something that you can effortlessly achieve for yourself <strong>to</strong>day.If you are in doubt about that, here is my definition written foranother book in this series that I hope will help you organiseyour thoughts.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 16


Step OneLow v-neckLow wrap no sleevesLow v-neckThis style of <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> with sleeves covers allthe shoulder area and with a deepv <strong>to</strong> reveal a brightly coloured vest <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>underneath creates an elegant neckline.The small triangle shape suggestsa small bosom.<strong>Good</strong> for large or square shoulders. Maingarment in a dark or neutral colour whilesmaller v-insert must be colourful.Low wrap no sleevesThis shape with wide neckline andsleeves placed wide on the shoulderswidens the area around the neckline andbust and reduces the amount ofshoulder on show.<strong>Good</strong> for large or square shoulders.A fashionable approach is adopted by someone who wants <strong>to</strong> be seen<strong>to</strong> be part of an invisible club called ‘Hopelessly up <strong>to</strong> date.’ They willtalk in riddles about what is ‘in’ and ‘out,’ they see their clothes as ‘musthave’ items and are always looking ahead <strong>to</strong> what is coming next. Theycan judge other women as harshly as they judge themselves for nothaving the latest bag and are often on waiting lists for various designeritems. Confidence is something that is achieved once they have all the‘right’ clothes on but next season everything is changed or thrown out,once they see the newest collections.A stylish approach is taken by someone who has no need <strong>to</strong> be par<strong>to</strong>f an exclusive club. They appreciate clothes as fine items ofadornment that will enhance their day. They do not judge others andwill willingly compliment another woman on her dress sense. Theyknow what will suit them and don’t need <strong>to</strong> be dictated <strong>to</strong> by thefashion world, although will just as happily clap hands with delight asthe new styles hit the shops.Confidence is something they already have, by enjoying who they areand what they have done with their lives. In their wardrobes will be aselection of clothes that fit well and have s<strong>to</strong>od the test of time, as wellas some high fashion items because they are fun <strong>to</strong> wear.Which one are you aiming for?<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 17


Step OneAsymmetric shoulder wide strap vest <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>High neck vestHalter neck Spaghetti strapsSleveless round neckAsymmetricshoulderThis comes in and out of fashion andusually appears on evening style garments.It suits all shoulder shapes and is a dramaticand chic statement for gowns and <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s alike.Especially good for large or squareshoulders.Halter-neckAny halter-neck reveals a large amount ofshoulder since it wraps close round theneck. It is featured on summer <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s as wellas more formal evening <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s, dresses andgowns.Great for small or sloping shoulders as it willcreate the effect of larger shoulders.Avoid if you have large or squareshoulders.Vest <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> with widestraps and low ovalnecklineThe neck area is widened with this designand the wide straps cover a larger area ofshoulder. This is why this design is good forlarger bodies in general.Great if you have large or squareshoulders.Spaghetti strapsThese straps are just as they sound - thin,strand-like straps. They are often used ondainty dresses and are more fordecoration than anything. A strapless bra isthe only choice here as this dainty look isruined with visible bra straps. You’d think thatwould be obvious but I’ve seen it so manytimes.Great if you have small or sloping shoulders.Avoid if you have large or squareshoulders.Vest <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> withnarrow straps & highernecklineThe neck area is made smaller and theshoulder area is increased because thestraps are pushed further <strong>to</strong>wards the neck.This sporty style will make the body seemlarger and more muscular.Round neckand sleevelessThis could also be a v-neckline butthe important part of the design is thecoverage from the neck <strong>to</strong> the shoulder.The wider this is, the less shoulder there ison show.<strong>Good</strong> for large or square shoulders.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 18


Step OneWide scoopoff the shoulderWaterfall collarGypsyWide scoopThis neckline can work very well <strong>to</strong>create a subtle width across the shoulderarea. If you find your bra straps are onshow then wear a contrasting colouredvest underneath <strong>to</strong> conceal the strapsand create a layered look.Avoid if you have wide shoulders.Off the shoulderThis neckline is usually seen on gownsand cocktail dresses and works very wellbecause of the gentle v-shape <strong>to</strong> createa flattering effect for curvy upper bodiesand standard shapes.<strong>How</strong>ever, it still creates a horizontal lineacross the shoulder area.Avoid if you have large or squareshoulders.Waterfall collarThis is an elegant neckline or collar stylethat creates a vertical line through thebody <strong>to</strong> create a streamlined andelongating effect. It is usually seen informalwear. A generously proportionedruffle will feminise large or squareshoulders.The GypsyWhen soft ruffles are popular, theGypsy off-the-shoulder <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> will appear.It is a great garment for feminising theshoulders and for this reason is the bestchoice if you are broad shouldered butlike the idea of wearing styles that havean obvioushorizontal feature.<strong>Good</strong> for large or square shoulders.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 19


Step OneBack view cross over feature Back view cowlBack view of sports <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> or t-barBack viewcrossover featureOften appears on special occasiondresses. The effect of these thin strapscriss-crossing across the back is <strong>to</strong> makeshoulders appear larger and thereforethe waist smaller.Great for small or sloping shoulders.Avoid if you have large or squareshoulders.Back view cowlThe straps are placed wide apart and agentle draping cowl feminises and softensthe back; but depending on the designcan also make your back appear wider.Great for small or sloping shoulders.Back view of sports<strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> or t-barThe straps are designed <strong>to</strong> make theshoulders appears larger and thereforemore sporty. It’s a great shape <strong>to</strong> drawattention <strong>to</strong> shoulders and <strong>to</strong> make theupper <strong>to</strong>rso seem more developed.Great for small or sloping shoulders.Avoid if you have large or squareshoulders.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 20


Action PlanStyle detective‘Just what is your style?’Many women have no sense of what they would like their style <strong>to</strong> bewhen I ask this question. Moreover, they have no understanding of thestyle they currently inhabit. Just jot down a handful of words thatrepresent you now – be as honest as you can bear. My guess is thatamongst your descriptions will include the words ‘practical,’ ‘thrifty,’‘comfortable,’ maybe even ‘bored,’ ‘scruffy’ and ‘bland.’Style should begin and end with who you are and what you areabout. Whether we like it or not people read our clothing, accessoryand hair and make-up choices. Despite not uttering a single wordabout ourselves <strong>to</strong> others, we will have communicated volumes abou<strong>to</strong>urselves through our clothes.One woman I worked with had a fondness for drab lifeless colours,shapeless garments, no make-up on her face and unloved hair. She wasamazed when I said I could see immediately that she had fallen out oflove with herself. To her these clothes were just what she had alwaysput on in the morning and she liked not having <strong>to</strong> think about them.I read her image as someone who didn’t want <strong>to</strong> think about herself,who was uninterested in the woman she saw in the mirror.Let’s start with the simple basics; like whether your clothes appear<strong>to</strong> be cared for. Do they give off a look of quality and do they fit? Ona deeper level ask yourself do your clothing choices flatter your body?Do they cleverly enhance your strengths and play downyour weaknesses.Do they give clues about your state of mind?Yes, others will effortlessly make assumptions about your personality byreading your choices on colour, design and print as well as all the above(this includes potential friends, bosses, work colleagues and socialacquaintances) – so will they be the right assumptions?A stylish woman will always communicate a regard for herself and apleasure in being. Size and age need have no bearing on how youpresent yourself - few things are more self-affirming than the act ofdressing well (this is not <strong>to</strong> be confused with spending well). Someonewho dresses well will not get caught in the trap of over spending ormaking expensive mistakes, even impulse purchasing. Once you begin<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 21


Action Plan<strong>to</strong> use the <strong>to</strong>ols I will lay out in this book you <strong>to</strong>o will communicateradiance and a confidence that is very lovely <strong>to</strong> be around. Yourwardrobe will soon be full of thoughtfully chosen clothes that willcreate the best possible statement about you!Your own visual signature1 Take a piece of card or paper the width of your wardrobe door(there is method here so read on) and fill it with aspirational images.Let’s start with the women you admire style-wise.2 Then add shapes, colours and prints you like – they may be subtle orbold and modern or nostalgic. Just cut several swatches from your oldmagazines and arrange them attractively in the page. Don’t let faddytrends influence you here; the object of this exercise is <strong>to</strong> create yourown personal mood board.3 Now add the words that you would like <strong>to</strong> represent you. Thesecould be feelings or descriptions like ‘glamorous,’ ‘colourful,’‘co-ordinated,’ ‘sassy,’ ‘smart’ even ‘sultry,’ ‘sophisticated,’ ‘vampish,’ or just‘fun,’ ‘happy,’ ‘fresh-faced,’ ‘natural.’ Stay realistic.Type these words on yourcomputer and enlarge them so that they have a weight. Then cut out instrips and fix <strong>to</strong> the card. Don’t move so far away from what iscurrently your style now, that your aspirational image becomes a merefantasy and completely unachievable.4 Now fix this paper <strong>to</strong> the inside of your wardrobe door andwhenever you open your wardrobe you will be reminded of your ownpersonal style signature.By doing this you can begin <strong>to</strong> carry out your own wishes. After all,all stylists are surrounded by clothes, models and designers. The reasonthey seem <strong>to</strong> make such effortless choices is because they are thinkingabout image and inspiration for a large part of their day.They get <strong>to</strong> see clothes in action on the catwalk, they experimentwith clothes on shoots and they spend longer than most shopping foraccessories or in the offices of PR’s choosing clothes from the shootthey will work on next. I’m not advocating that you spend any longerthan necessary on your image but give yourself an opportunity <strong>to</strong> beinspired when you open the wardrobe door in the morning!<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 22


Step OneCurved straplessperiod style straplessStandard strapless Scalloped strapless extra band around the bustStrapless bodicesThese often appear on specialoccasionwear and gowns aswell as corset style <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s intheir own right. They areperfect for large shouldersand curvy arms as well asstandard and petite shapes.When properly boned aresensational for curvyvoluptuous busts. There willbe many variations but thesefive designs represent mos<strong>to</strong>f the designs you willcome acrossCurved straplessA design like this creates a larger area atthe bust and because it does not followa horizontal line <strong>to</strong> mirror the shoulderline will not exaggerate square shoulders.Choose a style like this if you have asmall bust and square shoulders. Thecurved line will create a visual distractionfrom the shoulders that are angular, bonyand square. Avoid if you have small orsloping shoulders.Period Style straplessThis design has a gothic feel <strong>to</strong> it andoften appears in vampish colours eitheras cocktail gowns or corset <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s.This shape will minimise the bust area.Standard straplessThis is a universally flattering shape withvertical seaming through the front of thebody. The vertical seeming will alwaysmake the waist appear more streamlined.Great for standard and narrow or slopedshoulders - the horizontal line willenhance the same line made by theshoulders.Scalloped straplessThis design suggests softness andfemininity. The scallop over the bust willcreate a minimising effect and will alsosoften the shoulders.Perfect for large or square shoulders.Extra bandacross the bustThis design adds volume at the bust aswell as width, making the waist looksmaller by comparison.This is one of the best ways <strong>to</strong> createmore width across the bust, making thebody seem wider and/or larger.Many bodices will have beading,sequins or other embellishment atthis point. This also does the job ofcreating volume.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 23


Styling <strong>to</strong>ols<strong>Caryn</strong> says...Here’s how <strong>to</strong> read clothesStyling <strong>to</strong>olsLets have a look at how some of the simpleststyling <strong>to</strong>ols work.This illustration shows how long lean vertical lines will always elongateyour body especially when clothes are all in the same colour groupingor <strong>to</strong>ne.See how the closed <strong>to</strong>e footwear elongates the leg. For extralengthening effect, ensure your shoes are the same colour as yourtrousers. Conversely, if you wear a contrasting coloured pair of shoesyou will shorten long legs.This drawing is an exaggerated look <strong>to</strong> show how the featureworks illustrating…• Shape of garments that make vertical lines in themselves• Long length garments• Seaming• Panels of colour• Zips, fastenings• Garment layering - <strong>to</strong> reveal panels of colour through <strong>to</strong>rso areaSee how the eye travels up and down the body because there is nohorizontal feature <strong>to</strong> distract it.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 24


Step TwoBatwing sleevePuffed sleeveStep Two. Remember yourunique and indidivualSleevesA sleeve all on its own cando a great deal for a full arm,but for any shaped arm, thesleeve you choose canmake a difference <strong>to</strong> howyour arm appears.Batwing sleeveThis style usually appears in soft jerseyfabrics or fine knitwear and is aninteresting and forgiving shape.It will disguise the shape of any arm butcan foreshorten a body.Puffed sleeveThis is a great device for creating widthand volume around the shoulder area.When worn in a soft jersey fabric it canwork well for curvy arms byappearing larger in size than thepiece of arm on show and thereforemaking the arm look smaller.Avoid if you have large orsquare shoulders.The steps I’m outlining here are important. But so is thinking ofyourself as unique and therefore special. If you like a certain colouror want <strong>to</strong> dress in a certain way then go ahead and enjoy it. I don’tsubscribe <strong>to</strong> the idea that everyone should look the same. In fact, Ifeel strongly that a stylish approach allows for individuality, whereas amerely fashionable approach can often make everyone look as thoughthey are wearing a uniform.It is important that you feel you have a signature that out-lives any ofthe trends – these after all last a very short space of time. Yoursignature will be the thing that others can describe you by. It willinfluence the types of clothes you buy. After all we can lean that acertain print or colour is ‘on trend’ but it is how we incorporate it in<strong>to</strong>our wardrobes that counts.Start <strong>to</strong> take ownership of your look; don’t hand it <strong>to</strong> the fashionindustry <strong>to</strong> decide how you should appear. Here are two examples ofwhat I mean:The Ethnic lookShe usually has long hair, maybe it’s plaited. She loves turquoise oramber jewellery and often has lots of silver bangles or rings. Herclothes are loose and feminine in earthy colours. She loves leather andcrisp white blouses.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 25


Step TwoCapped sleeve Angel sleeveCapped sleeveThis design concentrates on the shoulderand <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> area of the arm. It can accentuatethe size of this area and is a popular choicefor those who enjoy the way their armlooks more athletic and <strong>to</strong>ned when theywear it. Avoid if you have soft, round orlarge arms and shoulders.Angel sleeveThis is a great sleeve for fuller softer arms.It will always work <strong>to</strong> make the arm looksmaller and more feminine.The slash in the sleeve will blur the line andcreate a minimising effect on the arm. It willalways work <strong>to</strong> make the arm look smallerand more feminine.Fitted T-shirtUrban Chic.This a style that has tailoring at its heart. She will wear clothes thathave a certain strictness <strong>to</strong> them as well as accentuating her shape. Herhair will be groomed, her accessories co-ordinated. Colours will begraphic – reds, greys, black.Both these women have retained their own unique style but both willbuy clothes <strong>to</strong> accentuate and support their look each season,choosing styles and cuts that are relevant <strong>to</strong> them. Have you everthought about what your look might be? To find out more moveforward <strong>to</strong> Action Plan Number 1 ‘Style Detective.’Fitted t-shirtA hard horizontal line across the armwhere it begins <strong>to</strong> widen is a way of lookingmuscular. The t-shirt was invented afterall by the US Army as an undergarment.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 26


Step Two3/4 Length or cropped sleeves Bell shaped sleeve Bell-bot<strong>to</strong>m sleeve3/4 length orcropped sleevesThis length sleeve works perfectly <strong>to</strong> makelimbs look longer and, whendesigned with a wide flare, will be one ofthe most flattering shapes for curvy armsand wrists.Bell shaped sleeveA sleeve like this will come in and out offashion and is most often seen on formalor special occasionwear blouses. It workswell <strong>to</strong> widen the bot<strong>to</strong>m part of the armand will give balance <strong>to</strong> the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> part.Bell-bot<strong>to</strong>m sleeveA long and wide sleeve will work <strong>to</strong>balance the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> of the arm.A long wide sleeve can foreshortenthe arm.<strong>How</strong>ever, the benefits of balancing the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>part of the arm by creating more volumeat the wrist and forearm are also important.As a general rule a curvier arm needsa wider flare at the bot<strong>to</strong>m.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 27


Step TwoRaglan Sleeve Extended cuff featureOpen slash sleeveRaglan sleeveThis design is more <strong>to</strong> do with the waythat the sleeve fits in<strong>to</strong> the shoulder areabecause it is not a conventional sleevecasing. It is often used in sporting clothingbecause it allows for more give acrossthe back. It also enhances the shoulderarea, especially if it appears as a two-<strong>to</strong>nedesign (where the sleeve is a contrastingcolour from the body).This shape will always bulk up theshoulder area.Avoid if you have large or squareshoulders.Extended cuff featureA dressy shirt, blouse or <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> can use thisfeature and it is a great one <strong>to</strong> reducethe appearance of a long slender arm,especially if there is some gathering in<strong>to</strong>the cuff that creates width around theforearm.Open slash sleeveThis sleeve is slashed from the shoulder<strong>to</strong> the wrist and held by the wristbandbut there are other designs <strong>to</strong>o like aslash just at the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> of the arm or severalslashes that are caught at various pointsalong the way.This is a perfect sleeve for concealing theshape of the arm, leaving a slither of skinon show and a long vertical line.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 27


Action PlanBe your ownwardrobe mistressWe’d all like a larger wardrobe right?The fact that there never seems <strong>to</strong> be enough space just serves <strong>to</strong> encourageus <strong>to</strong> treat our clothes badly. In any wardrobe (and I’ve overhauleda few in my time), I can guarantee I will find garments that arebadly hung or squashed in<strong>to</strong> tight spaces. There will be hangers pokingthrough knitwear; clothes on the floor of the wardrobe or returned<strong>to</strong> the rail dirty. And I always find plenty of clothes that aren’t even theright size. Most women only wear about a third of their wardrobe, therest is closet clutter.Closet clutter and clothes that are past it - read that as worn out orout of date - are no good <strong>to</strong> you. A good stylist knows what she hason her rails at any time and knows what is available <strong>to</strong> work with. Spota stylish woman in the street and you can be sure that she willhave an organised wardrobe at her disposal. This is very easily achievedwhen you adopt the mindset of a stylist and think of clothes as <strong>to</strong>ols.A carpenter will keep a <strong>to</strong>olbox tidy so that she can find the <strong>to</strong>ol sheneeds <strong>to</strong> carry out the job well; why don’t you take that approach <strong>to</strong>your clothes from now on?Personal VintageIf you have any clothes remaining that are well cut and fit you beautifully,perhaps they spent some money on them and they have classicappeal BUT don’t fit in with your current looks then save them as‘personal vintage.’ Personal vintage will allow you <strong>to</strong> bring these clothesback out in a few years when the catwalks revisit these looks.I have always done this…when trouser shapes change significantly fromskinny <strong>to</strong> flare and back again, I can recycle my own designer styles andnot have <strong>to</strong> re purchase something I already had once.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 28


Action PlanTry this practical approach.1 Start by splitting your wardrobe in<strong>to</strong> two seasons and remove all thegarments that are seasonally unsuitable. There is after all no pointfighting your way through a sea of sweaters you won’t wear for atleast three months. Or trying <strong>to</strong> extricate your strappy sandals from apile of winter boots. Fold and pack these items away clean in s<strong>to</strong>rage(moths are attracted <strong>to</strong> food stains or perspiration, in fact this is a feastfor them).2 Now put the s<strong>to</strong>red clothes and accessories in the loft, under thebed or just generally out of the way – not only will it keep them inbetter condition and ready for the correct season – but you’ll have abetter idea when you do unpack them of whether you want <strong>to</strong> keepthem all.3 Now let’s look at what you have left in your wardrobe. Put <strong>to</strong> oneside the items that you don’t wear for one reason or another and nowlet’s arrange on the rail the remaining garments.4 Take all metal and plastic hangers out of the equation and replacewith wooden ones. These will keep your clothes in better shape.5 Now group all your trousers <strong>to</strong>gether and hang; then group skirtsand hang; now jackets and hang. Notice how many combinations youcan get from mixing the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> halves with both sets of bot<strong>to</strong>m halves.6 Now add blouses on hangers and then on <strong>to</strong> the shelf place foldedLycra <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s and knitwear. Split these last two groups in<strong>to</strong> light and darkif you can.7 Finally s<strong>to</strong>re dresses on wooden hangers and place next<strong>to</strong> the blouses.8 Now place all seasonal shoes at the bot<strong>to</strong>m of your wardrobe alongwith a box for your belts, scarves, corsages and other accessories. Bagscan sit on <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> of the box or in a shelf space if you have one.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 29


Action planAssessing your wardrobeThis is your working wardrobe. See how easy it is <strong>to</strong> create a varietyof looks with all the items that are in front of you, partly because youcan see what you have immediately and partly because the garmentsthemselves will now give you ideas and inspiration as they suggestcombinations.Let’s now look at the clothes on your bed that you don’t wear. Behonest with yourself here and voice out loud why you don’t wearthem. Hearing yourself say things like ‘I’m waiting <strong>to</strong> shrink back in<strong>to</strong> it.’Or ‘I keep thinking that one day it will look right on me.’ Or mosttypically ‘It was a bargain and I’ll find a use for it somehow,’ will helpyou <strong>to</strong> let go of them. Often women keep a variety of sizes in theirwardrobe in case they either lose or gain weight. In my experience, it’simportant <strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>re the clothes that aren’t your current size so that youare styling with only the clothes that you know will fit you. Give awaythe rest.If you have anything left from this pile that you do want <strong>to</strong> keep, putit in your closet and review next season. This practice should be keptup twice a year and, as you buy new clothes, you can make space inyour wardrobe for them by removing old worn out items.To create a new mindset for you, choose a mantra – my personalone is ‘every day is a best underwear day’ – that communicates <strong>to</strong> methe joy of feeling my best all the time rather than saving my efforts forsome special (fantasy) day. Start using your clothes <strong>to</strong> support you inyour quest <strong>to</strong> look and feel great everyday. If we think about thecarpenter and her <strong>to</strong>olbox for just a moment, we realise thatshe strives <strong>to</strong> turn in good work everyday using the correct <strong>to</strong>ols….so should you!<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 30


Step ThreeClassic T-shirt styleStep Three.Know your body symmetryTopsTops are as much a taste andstyle thing as they are a fitissue and, with fashionchanging the cuts everyseason, there are always newshapes <strong>to</strong> try. Here is agrouping of the classicshapes which, when put<strong>to</strong>gether with theinformation you already haveon neck line, shoulder andsleeve detail will create abody shape referencewhatever the styles. Length isalso important <strong>to</strong> considerhere and this will be flaggedup where relevant.Never heard of that phrase? Well join me now on animage adventure.You are petite and you are <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>-<strong>heavy</strong>. It’s possible that you have a largetummy or an apple bosom, maybe fuller arms. What you want <strong>to</strong> do iseven up your body symmetry, minimising the parts of you that you feelare most noticeable. This means creating clothing illusions that makeyour tummy look smaller and your bosom neater. It’s easier than youthink <strong>to</strong> minimise or disguise these parts of your body. It really is!Classic t-shirt styleThis shape usually has a little Lycra <strong>to</strong>help it stretch or it is a loose weavecot<strong>to</strong>n so we can stretch it over ourheads. It has become a utilitygarment of modern day times andis useful for casual wear.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 31


Step FourClassic vestThe vest has just that bit more shape <strong>to</strong>it and so is a more flattering garment forsummer. It is also a very useful garment<strong>to</strong> wear under another <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> like acamisole or a wide scoop <strong>to</strong> give brastraps coverage and a contrastingcolour for a layered look.The Kimono <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>This casual style <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> has large squaresleeves and can be loosely fitted <strong>to</strong> thebody under the bust and around thewaist. The extra volume around the armswill minimise the bust while the fabric atthe tummy will cover roundness. A <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>like this will usually have bold print andits general width can create aforeshortening effect.Classic vestThe Kimono <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>Step Four.Clothing design in generalThere is always so much choice but don’t be confused bythe amount of retailers out there.You will consistently find that just a few actually give you the fit youneed and that one retailer’s size 12 is another’s size 14. That is becausethere isn’t standardised sizing. So stick with a label or shop that fits youbest because fit is everything. The cheapest of garments can looksensational if it fits the body beautifully and the most expensive outfitwill only create a negative impact if it is badly fitted.OK, with the above in mind, your mission is <strong>to</strong> achieve sophisticationat all times because sophistication suggests adult elegance andpetite women are often seen <strong>to</strong> be ‘girly,’ not womanly. It may be thatyou have often resorted <strong>to</strong> teen clothes because you find they fit you.There’s nothing wrong with that – so many teen clothes can pass foradult clothes but just be aware of the garment finish. Teen clothes areaimed at girls with low incomes and are not always very carefully made.If you are a fan of teen clothes, mix them with adult styles.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 32


Step FourBlouson dropped waistedCamisoleBlousondropped waistedThis <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> can have any type of neckline,what’s important here is the softgathered fabric around the tummy areaand the low waisted band. This can gentlymask the shape of your whole upper<strong>to</strong>rso and so blurs the line betweenbust and tummy.CamisoleThis is a <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> that normally appears inflimsy or lightweight fabrics. It gives littleor no shape <strong>to</strong> curves but is good forslender frames. Worn either braless orwith a good strapless bra it can lookvery demure and was a key look withjeans not so long ago.Avoid if you have large orsquare shoulders.Do• Choose clothes that give your body definition. Clothes with gentlestructure like blouses will work for you as well as looser bohemianstyles that are shaped and fitted <strong>to</strong> the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> of your body. Now is afantastic time <strong>to</strong> shop because so many clothes are sold as separatesso you can buy individual pieces <strong>to</strong> suit your shape.• If you want <strong>to</strong> play down full shoulders and arms wear wide shoulderstraps, sweetheart necklines or 3/4 length sleeves with a flare.• Wear a correctly fitted, smooth and seamless bra, making sure thatstraps do not cut in<strong>to</strong> your flesh creating lumps and bumps. It is crucialthat you take time <strong>to</strong> get the correct fit – your bust line will createdefinition and the shapelier it looks, the smaller your waist will look bycomparison. Use an underwired minimiser <strong>to</strong> reduce a full bust but stillkeep the definition or underwired with pre-formed cups <strong>to</strong> give youextra volume, if you are a smaller cup.• Trousers and skirts need <strong>to</strong> create the illusion of length at all times<strong>to</strong> give the look of height and sophistication. So use bootleg cuts <strong>to</strong>enhance the length of your legs and wear a low or medium heelunder your trousers. I say this because, with few exceptions, high heelsare just plain uncomfortable and sophisticated cool is not <strong>to</strong> be foundon the face of someone whose feet are in distress.• Cropped trousers are a fantastic visual aid <strong>to</strong> leg elongation as areskirts that hover around the knee, leaving almost yards of leg on show.The shape of the skirt should be gently flared from the hip. Withlong tailored trousers choose a pair that are flared from the hip andbecome wider at the bot<strong>to</strong>m.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 33


Step FourClassic tankCamisole with peplumClassic tankThe classic tank style is a greatsolution if you have large or squareshoulders and will minimise this areavery effectively. Especially good forsquare or athletic shoulders.Camisole with peplumAll of the above counts here but theimportant thing about this <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> is itsextended length. Any <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> with a peplumor loose layer like this is perfect forcovering round tummies.• Shoes are crucial here. A very bright colour will draw the eyedownwards and sabotage the effect you are trying <strong>to</strong> create – weara shoe or boot that matches <strong>to</strong>nally with your skirt or trouser forextra lengthening effect and keep the balance of the shoe with yourclothes in mind. Shoes that are <strong>to</strong>o strappy and dainty may make yourlegs look fuller. You can wear platforms and wedges as well as the nextwoman but prioritise a pair that is medium sized so that it doesnot look overly large on your foot.Don’t• Wear over sized or baggy clothes like shapeless tshirts or polo shirts.The extra fabric will create a boxy shape on your <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> half and makeyou look shorter than you are.• Think you can get away with sleeves that are <strong>to</strong>o long, even thougheverything else seems <strong>to</strong> fit.• Wear tight-fitting clothes that strain or pull – these will have theeffect of making your body look larger.• Wear clothes that have areas of extra fabric like frills, ruffles orpleating without being aware that they will add extra volume <strong>to</strong> whereverthey are worn. If you are trying <strong>to</strong> play down a large bust ortummy, a ruffled shirt will make this area seem larger.• Wear <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s with extra volume like frills or flounces that puff out yourbust making you seem bigger than you already are.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 34


Step FourWrap <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>Fitted shirtWrap <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>This is a flattering shape that wrapsthe body and creates definition.It usually appears as all in one with noneed of fastening.Fitted shirt.This is a classic that is adapted <strong>to</strong> suitevery body shape and is flattering <strong>to</strong>both curvy and slender alike (yourfavourite retailers will have taken yourbody type in<strong>to</strong> account when theydesign this classic). <strong>Petite</strong> retailers willalways offer shorter lengths for instanceand tall retailers will add extralength and cuff detail.• Choose <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s that are <strong>to</strong>o tiny hoping <strong>to</strong> squash your bosoms underyour arms. You’ll bulge out the front or round the side. The effect willmake you look enormous and lumpy.• Wear high round necklines. Avoid these at all costs because they willexaggerate the expanse of chest area, making everything look larger.• Wear a lacy bra under a smooth jersey <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>; it will immediately drawattention <strong>to</strong> your bosom undoing all your good styling work.• Wear <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s that have dropped or no waists. The upper part of yourbody will look boxy and extra bulky.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 35


Step FourHorizontalsThis picture illustrates how horizontal lines can create width and aforeshortening effect. The look itself is exaggerated with manyhorizontal features in the clothing <strong>to</strong> make the point. See how the eyetravels across the body wherever there is a horizontal line.Horizontals are effectively used as visual punctuation on tall bodies butmust be used more sparingly on shorter and curvy bodies.They can, however, be great <strong>to</strong>ols <strong>to</strong> create width at a certain part ofthe body <strong>to</strong> give balance.Horizontal lines are made by:• Creating a colour break (a change of colour)• Belts• Seaming• Print• Garment layering <strong>to</strong> create horizontal slabs of colour• Features on clothes like smocking, yokes, panelling ribbing, shirring,fabric bands<strong>Caryn</strong> says...See your clothesin a different light<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 36


Step Four<strong>Caryn</strong> says...a horizontalline above the bustwill amplifyshapeSmock <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>Empire lineFashion tipIf you half shut youreyes, you can see wherethe focus is for manygarments.This will help you <strong>to</strong>decide more easilySmock <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>This is a <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> with a lot of fabric in it. It isrecognisable by the flat yoke that reachesfrom the neckline <strong>to</strong> the rise of the bust,where it is joined <strong>to</strong> a full or gatheredeffect fabric. In general it will widenthe shoulders and blur any definitionbetween bust and tummy.It is also good for creating volumearound the whole of the upper body.Empire lineThis shape has enjoyed spectacularpopularity in recent seasons because it isa very flattering and easy <strong>to</strong> wear shape.The difference between empire andsmock is that the fabric is fitted over thebust and pulled close <strong>to</strong> the body justunder the bust where it then falls awayand flares over the tummy withoutdefining the shape.It is a great garment for creatingdefinition around the bust and disguisingthe tummy.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 37


Step FourDropped waist or long line camisoleTunic Dropped waist orlong line camisoleTops that have a dropped waist area joy <strong>to</strong> wear because the waist andtummy is not on show and for manyof us that means the chance <strong>to</strong> breathout and relax.<strong>How</strong>ever, the dropped waist draws theeye line downwards, creating someforeshortening.TunicThis is one of the most popular shapesof recent times, creating a loose layerover the whole of the upper bodyand covering waistline and tummy.The advantages <strong>to</strong> this type of <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>are numerous.But choosing the right style of tunicdepends on the features it has. The necklineis crucial; an all over pattern is neutral,while dominant decoration at the bot<strong>to</strong>mof the tunic draws the eye away from theupper body. Similarly dominant and eyecatchingembellishment at the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> of thetunic focuses the attention at the bust.The length of garment works bestfor you when it is not settled on thewidest part of your hips. Also theshorter your legs, the shorter the tunic<strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> needs <strong>to</strong> be <strong>to</strong> avoid visuallyforeshortening your legs.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 37


BriefingUniforms<strong>How</strong> many uniforms do you have?We all wear uniforms <strong>to</strong> some extent. In my own wardrobe I have adozen that have served me well. When I know what I am doing withmy day I then pick from one of the following uniforms; thisnarrows down my potential for time wasting.‘Fashion Expert’ at work clothesThese are mostly black clothes because the days can be long; theremay be meetings and appointments or styling behind the scenes forTV or magazines. I often have my hair scraped back so that it is held inplace all day long and looks chic. For meetings, especially, I may need <strong>to</strong>look a little stern. I’m usually pitching ideas and I need <strong>to</strong> look efficientand authoritative.TV and Stage clothesWell you’d think they’d be the same but they are not. Televisionrequires brightly coloured, larger than life clothes. I used <strong>to</strong> try and getaway with black after all it was the way I dressed but, when I looked atthe piece I’d filmed later, I looked <strong>to</strong>o stern and sombre. I often buyclothes for TV that I wouldn’t wear in an ordinary day because theylook <strong>to</strong>o attention seeking. Clothes also need <strong>to</strong> look new on TV so,even if I do like something, I don’t often wear it for real life. I’m veryfrugal and I buy from designer friends at wholesale. I also prioritisedesigner sales. Shoes are important here. If I’m on stage my shoes willbe level with many people’s eye line. I always wear stage shoes, whichhave ‘showy heels,’ that look and feel great for a few hours max!Mum clothes/Writing in the office clothesThis is my jeans and trainers or boots look with a few loose <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s overpolo necks in the winter. I like <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s that cover tummies so that whenI’m sitting down at my desk I don’t have <strong>to</strong> hold my tummy in. I wearjeans with a bit of Lycra in them because sitting at my desk all day canbe uncomfortable in restrictive fabrics. I always write up until the lastmoment then I rush off <strong>to</strong> collect my youngest from school. I likestriding out in my trainers (currently red and pink Gola’s), it’s theperfect antidote <strong>to</strong> being cooped up at my desk.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 39


BriefingFunky downtime with friends clothesThese are the women I dress for. I want them <strong>to</strong> think I am well put<strong>to</strong>gether and effortlessly stylish. Amongst them I have writers, designers,other TV presenters, PR’s and magazine publishers as well as othermums from school. I probably put the most amount of effort in<strong>to</strong> thislook. But it’s not about labels, it’s about individuality. I take pleasure inmixing things up and wearing designer items I have loved for years, likemy favourite Betty Jackson designs with some high street labels andsomething I have just bought from a second hand shop. It’s all aboutlooking and feeling good isn’t it? I love the way my friends dress <strong>to</strong>oand I’m inspired by their individuality - often we will exchange details.Being in the Country clothesBright colours or funky designs just look very attention seeking and ou<strong>to</strong>f place in the country. I spend as much time as I can there <strong>to</strong> unwind.It’s about as far from fashion as you can get and if I have driven up fromLondon in my London clothes – they can feel strangely out of place.Heels and pointy boots just don’t work on s<strong>to</strong>ny and uneven paths.Gardening clothesOf course I wear old muddy clothes that have seen a lot of action.Gardening is my favourite hobby (my hands are never manicuredbecause gardening just ruins them). I love wiping my filthy hands downmy clothes and then popping in<strong>to</strong> the garden centre still messy andwild with my Welling<strong>to</strong>n boots on. I know I am recognised and getsome strange looks because I am always muddy or dirty. Gardeningshouldn’t be any other way!Special Occasion clothesBecause I don’t do girly, I know where every woman who tells me thesame is coming from. For evening wear I love monochrome andtailored designs – because there is something sexy about a well cutwaistcoat with cleavage and beautifully cut trousers. Hey it workedwhen Yves St Laurent launched it all those years ago and it’s still aclassic now. I love shoes <strong>to</strong>o so I indulge myself with classic designsfrom Georgina <strong>Good</strong>man (heels always) that last and last.Slipping in<strong>to</strong> these clothes helps me <strong>to</strong> focus on the role in hand. Iam dressed for it and I need think no more about what I am wearing.Instead I concentrate on what I am doing.<strong>How</strong> many different uniforms have you got?<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 40


Step FiveFitted streamlined jacketStep Five. ColourJACKET SHAPESThis section gives you aninsight in<strong>to</strong>thoseall-important outer layers. Bytheir very nature jackets aretailored <strong>to</strong> some degree andhave belt, pocket and collarfeatures. (I’ve done a separatecollar guide overleaf). I willalso be talking about lengthshere not just for jacketsbut coats <strong>to</strong>o since the samestyles appear withextra length.Fitted streamlined jacketThe fitted streamlined jacket comes in avariety of styles but is identifiable by itslack of features and undefined waist. It isa classic style and often in a soft leatheror glazed gabardine fabrics.There is so much <strong>to</strong> be said about colour that I’mkeeping it as simple as possible.Colour has the ability <strong>to</strong> draw the eye <strong>to</strong> wherever it is placed. It canalso be a helpful <strong>to</strong>ol in playing up or down certain parts of your body.So use colour with the knowledge that a dark colour minimises andnarrows the part of the body it covers and bright orlight colouraccentuates or draws attention <strong>to</strong> the part of the body it covers.Firstly, choose colour <strong>to</strong> suit your skin <strong>to</strong>ne. If you are pale find a <strong>to</strong>nalmatch in your favourite colour. What I’m saying here is that you canwear any colour you damn well please but it must be <strong>to</strong>nallycompatible <strong>to</strong> your skin and hair. Let’s take blue for instance - thereis a huge selection of <strong>to</strong>nes from baby blue <strong>to</strong> peacock blue andmidnight blue. Discount the primary version immediately. Primarycolours suit very few skin <strong>to</strong>nes over five years old.Then apply this basic rule: If you are pale, choose a blue that is notpigment intense. If you are mid-<strong>to</strong>ne, choose a blue with a mediumamount of pigment and, if you are dark, you can go all the way. Putsimply this means that pale skins can wear lights but not brights (richcolour will make you look washed out). Mid-<strong>to</strong>nes can wear lights orbrights that are not <strong>to</strong>o rich and not <strong>to</strong>o pale and dark skins can wearbrights but not lights (a pale colour can often look faded and washedout unable <strong>to</strong> offer any complimentary glow <strong>to</strong> dark skin).<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 32


Step FiveSingle breasted jacketSingle-breasted jacketThis is a universally flattering jacket andwill always make an appearance on thecatwalk (details slightly changed eachseason of course). Quite often it isfastened by only one or two but<strong>to</strong>ns andhas a fitted waist and small pocketsat the hips. All important is the fit andthe proportion on your body. It musthang from your shoulders with nowarping across the body.This style is also found in coats wherethe waist is featured and the fabric fallsfrom the hip in<strong>to</strong> a gentle flare. Again thisis a universally flattering style.There is plenty more <strong>to</strong> say on colour but one other helpful tip is takethe garment you want <strong>to</strong> buy <strong>to</strong> a mirror in daylight (electric light willnot help you at all). Then hold the colour right up under your chin andtake a good look. It will reflect under your chin, under your nose andunder your eyebrows - does this add a wonderful glow <strong>to</strong> your skin ordoes it look awful though you don’t know why?This method works so efficiently because colour gives off reflectedlight and throws it on<strong>to</strong> your skin. I, for instance, do not choose <strong>to</strong> wearmuch yellow and green because I have very yellow skin so I cool myskin down with blues and bluey pinks.Try this in your bedroom with your clothes now and you’ll seewhat I mean!Do• Keep within one colour grouping. Pick a <strong>to</strong>ne that suits your skin <strong>to</strong>neand then create an outfit from colours in similar <strong>to</strong>nes e.g. pink and lilacor beige and cream. This will accentuate an unbroken line and makeyou appear taller.• Match your shoes and bag <strong>to</strong>nally <strong>to</strong> your clothes <strong>to</strong> continue theline and elongate your body.• Use colour in panels lengthways <strong>to</strong> take the eye up and down yourbody.• Place colour at the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> third of your body <strong>to</strong> create the illusion ofheight.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 42


Step FiveFitted detail jacketFitted detail jacketThis is a much more sporting shape withfeatures like collar and cuff detail. It willappear in denim, cord, leather and avariety of lightweight but weatherproofed fabrics.The extra pockets will add volume<strong>to</strong> the upper body and can make itappear bulkier.This style in coat form can look cluttered.• Use dark colour <strong>to</strong> minimise areas that you want <strong>to</strong> play down andlight or bright colours <strong>to</strong> accentuate areas that you want <strong>to</strong> draw attention<strong>to</strong>.Don’t• Wear a <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> that contrasts in colour with your skirt or trousers as itwill create the effect of cutting you in half and making you look muchshorter. This simple tip will be one of the most effective things you canuse.• Wear all the bright and attention-grabbing colour on the fullest par<strong>to</strong>f your body.<strong>Caryn</strong> says... Online shopping is a greatway <strong>to</strong> effortlessly research the rightstyles for you. Visit the s<strong>to</strong>res <strong>to</strong> get the fit<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 43


Step FiveDouble breasted jacketThe trench style wrap The cropped jacketDouble breasted jacketThis style has a sporting feel and appearsin many different cuts. Recent militaryfashion for coats and jackets havefeatured the double breasted cut and italso appears when women’s suiting takeson a more androgynous or mannish feel.But<strong>to</strong>ns may also be exaggerated in sizeand lapels large. This style in coat formwill usually be long.The noticeable double-breasted featurecan be used <strong>to</strong> widen the upper body.The trench stylewrap jacketThe jacket may fasten with subtlebut<strong>to</strong>ns or it may just wrap over. Thecrucial feature is the belted waist. As withthe single breasted jacket, this is a greatway <strong>to</strong> define the upper body and isagain universally flattering.This style is also found in coats wherethe waist is featured and the fabric fallsfrom the hip in<strong>to</strong> a gentle flare. Again thisis a universally flattering style.The cropped jacketThink Coco Chanel classic; think hemlinejust below the waist. This jacket isdesigned <strong>to</strong> change the proportions of abody making the lower body lookstreamlined. It often appears in softfeminine pastel tweeds or wool mixes.This style will create volume around theupper body.This style in coat form is straight with nodefinition at the waist and has a JackieKennedy classic retro charm.Avoid if you are tall or <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>-<strong>heavy</strong> injacket and coat form.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 44


Step FiveGiletBoleroCropped 50’s style jacketWaistcoatGiletThis is a great shaped garment, which hasappeared as a padded design and morerecently a sheepskin item. It has nofastening and sits over other layers <strong>to</strong>give a practical warmth <strong>to</strong> any clothing.The strong vertical trim feature can help<strong>to</strong> elongate the body.BoleroThe overwhelming feature of this jacketis its hemline, which ends at high rib cage.Catwalks can sometimes feature this cutheavily over a fitted jersey <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> andtrousers. It is very lengthening but canalso focus interest around the bust.Cropped 50’s style jacketCropped sleeved jackets with croppedhemlines work very well over dresses.They often have one or two but<strong>to</strong>nfastening at the collarbone or a tiefastening and fall open. In lightweightfabrics they are a summer design thatappears on the catwalk for time <strong>to</strong> timeand because of the roomy cut will alwaysmake the body look dainty within.WaistcoatThe waistcoat is one of my favouritegarments because it can give shape <strong>to</strong>the upper body. It works just as well withjeans as it does with more formal clothes.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 45


Step FiveLong low breaksWide lepels Lapels and collarsCrucial features on jackets;lapels can widen orstreamline the body aswell as foreshorten orlengthen. Understandingwhich lapels you can choose<strong>to</strong> flatter your shape is easy.Long low breaksThis type of collar reveals whatever youare wearing underneath so plan <strong>to</strong>make a deliberate colour or garmentstatement. Often the waistline of thegarment will be less pronounced.This shape will take the eye lower downthe body.Wide lapelsThese are instantly balancing for largerbodies. The expanse of lapel looksgenerous and luxurious.<strong>Good</strong> for wide shoulders.<strong>Caryn</strong> says... collars will balance your body.Slight busts need small collarsFuller chests need more fabric<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 46


Step FiveShawl collarHigh break collar Standard break collarShawl collarThis is a thick wide luxurious lookingcollar and often appears on knitwear orspecial occasionwear jackets andluxurious coats.High break collarThis style of collar can often be found incoats, frock coats and suit jackets. It has afeeling of being strict and pared down.It will raise the eye <strong>to</strong> the bust area.Standard break collarThis style of collar is universally flatteringwhich is why it appears with suchregularity. Included on most jackets,frock coats and coats because of itsproportions, it will always give yourupper body a streamlined and neat look.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 47


Action PlanCreate a stunningwardrobe on a budgetNow that you have worked out who you are and you’veplayed ‘closet detective,’ there is one more project foryou <strong>to</strong> enjoy.This is a longer-term project, however, and not something you can doimmediately because it takes a mental shift <strong>to</strong> adjust your shoppinghabits and a few seasons <strong>to</strong> make those changes take effect. Thisproject is called Creating the Perfect Capsule Wardrobe on a Budget.Think about your newly organised wardrobe. It is beautifully orderednow and you know where everything is. Congratulations.Let’s get you thinking like a professional stylist now. Clothes fall in<strong>to</strong>different groups and once you see your clothes in this way they willau<strong>to</strong>matically help you <strong>to</strong> know what should go <strong>to</strong>gether and when <strong>to</strong>make changes.Group one - fashionGarments in this section are in and out of the shops in a season. Theyare directly influenced by what has come off the catwalk and are verytrend-oriented. Clothes in this group are about change and novelty –they can be extreme, eye catching or brightly coloured. These are theclothes you can experiment with. Perhaps a particular print trend takesyour fancy and, although you wouldn’t normally be attracted <strong>to</strong> such acombination, if it appeals for whatever reason – go ahead treat yourself.Spend only a small amount of money on clothes in this group. Theycan be as high fashion as you like but fashions change quickly so theseclothes need <strong>to</strong> be worn <strong>to</strong> death during the season. You will tire ofthem that way and they of you (cheap clothes are not made <strong>to</strong> last) –at the end of the season donate them.<strong>Look</strong> for: statement <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s, playful accessories, the latest wrap, colourfulshoes and dresses.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 48


Action PlanIt’s important <strong>to</strong> remember here that this fashion group sometimesoffers a look that is suited <strong>to</strong> a certain body shape or has a particularoffer that is just right for you. If this applies one season, then buy up themore classic garments within the look - it won’t be there next season.Group two - clothesThese garments are usually less trend-oriented and will last across acouple of seasons. Every woman will have her own favourite garmentsthat she has found work best for her body.Spend a little more on these items. You need more quality (goodfabrics, linings, trimmings) because you want the garment <strong>to</strong> last over afew seasons or more.<strong>Look</strong> for: denim skirts and other flattering shapes that have a moreclassic feel, jeans styles, lightweight jackets, fitted shirts and shapedsweaters.Group three - capsule classicsThese are the garments that every woman needs in her wardrobe,which can be dressed up or accessorised with the arrival of each newtrend (using clothes from the fashion section). They are classic styles sothey don’t date and they fit the body well, giving an air of sophisticatedgrooming.Spend what you can afford but buy these clothes as sale items <strong>to</strong> getthe best value for your money. Get used <strong>to</strong> planning shopping trips inthe sale times and shop with a list of exactly what you need. Don’timpulse buy anything in the sale because it is drastically reduced inprice, unless it happens <strong>to</strong> be exactly what you were looking for inthe first place!If your body shape is not well enough catered for by mainstreamshops, then look for a good dressmaker <strong>to</strong> make up the clothes thatwill be in your wardrobe for a long time. It is cheaper than you think ifyou balance the cost against years of pleasure, confidence andknowledge that you can always rely upon these garments <strong>to</strong> showcaseyour body beautifully. Trousers are crucial for fit, as is a tailored jacket.Once the dressmaker has your measurements, you can wait for fabricsales and s<strong>to</strong>re cloth ready <strong>to</strong> make in<strong>to</strong> a garment <strong>to</strong> fit.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 49


Action Plan<strong>Look</strong> for: the perfect (classically cut and beautifully fitted) pair ofblack trousers, a classic jacket and skirt, a fitted and classically cut coat(a Trench coat is always a good option). A classic pair of leather ridingboots or a beautiful leather handbag, cashmere knitwear and so on(these are all things I have bought at a snip during the sales). Stick <strong>to</strong>neutral colours for these items because colour dates quickly <strong>to</strong>o.Group four - basicsThese are the T-shirts, slacks, loose knitwear, comfortable fleeces etc,which need not be dictated <strong>to</strong> by trend unless you want them <strong>to</strong> be.Save time and money by shopping online or in catalogues for theseitems since fit is less of an issue.Final pointsWhenever you buy new items, clear out anything old so that yourwardrobe does not slowly grow <strong>to</strong> overfull. Donate <strong>to</strong> second hands<strong>to</strong>res or <strong>to</strong> friends (I have three sisters and so I’m often passing thingson for someone else <strong>to</strong> get some enjoyment from). The only reason<strong>to</strong> hold on <strong>to</strong> something is if it will age beautifully – like a beautifullycrafted handbag for instance. Highstreet designs certainly do not agewell because they are not made <strong>to</strong> last.This way you can create a wardrobe where the classic capsule andbasics are in place and the fashionable items are updated seasonallyand inexpensively. If you are ever in doubt remind yourself that it isalways better <strong>to</strong> have a few beautifully fitted garments that showcaseyou in the very best way possible than lots of ill-fitting garments in awardrobe.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 50


Step SixStep Six. Print and patternPRINTIf you are uncomfortablewith print, believing that it isunflattering, unlessyou are model shaped, it isbecause you may have chosenthe wrong size print in thepast or placed it on a par<strong>to</strong>f your body that is notflattering. In actual fact it isan excellent <strong>to</strong>ol and, if yourwardrobe is devoid of print,you are missing out on aneffective way <strong>to</strong> balance yourbody symmetry. There are twothings <strong>to</strong> consider when youare working with print. Thesize and also the direction ofthe print as well as where youplace the print.Print and pattern (like colour) serves <strong>to</strong> draw theeye <strong>to</strong> wherever it is used.Do• Wear prints that are medium weight (tiny floral sprigs will make yourbody look larger and large Hawaiianstyle blooms will dwarf you).• Wear prints up and down your body <strong>to</strong> narrow a full bosom or alarge tummy.Don’t• Wear bold print <strong>to</strong>o low on your body – it will draw the eye downand foreshorten you. It will also draw attention <strong>to</strong> the widest part ofyour body.• Wear horizontal effect print or stripes widthways across your body –it will make your tummy and bosom seem even larger.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 51


Step SixSmall all overthe body printWhen a print is used all over the body ithas the ability <strong>to</strong> create visual harmonyand when balanced by neutralaccessories and outer garments willgive a sophisticated and confident finish.The size of the print here is crucial. Seehow this relatively small print gives abody volume by making it look biggerthan it is.Weight of printWhen you are working with print besure <strong>to</strong> choose the right weight of printfor you. See how the print size chosenhere balances this body, whereas thesmaller print overleaf makes the samebody look larger.Placement of printPay attention <strong>to</strong> where you place prin<strong>to</strong>n your body. This larger sized print is agreat illustration of the way a big boldprint can make the body look smaller.But there are two features at play here.See how the print (and indeed any printregardless of its size) creates focus andinterest where it is placed. In this instanceat the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> of this body drawing our eyeaway from the bot<strong>to</strong>m half. This <strong>to</strong>olworks just as well in reverse. Just placedark solid colour in the area you want<strong>to</strong> minimise and bright bold print on thepart of the body you want <strong>to</strong> addvolume <strong>to</strong>.Start experimenting with print;it’s a great <strong>to</strong>ol <strong>to</strong> play with.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 52


Step SixClassic V-neck fine knit cardiFormal knitted cardigan Formal knittedCardigansWith new knitwear machinesand techniques cardigansare revved up outer layersthat come in all shapes andsizes with plenty of catwalk<strong>to</strong>uches. The differencebetween cardigans andjackets is the sensualityfac<strong>to</strong>r. Soft, tactile, finefinishes or chunky knits andslubbed or meaty yarns createthe opportunity for agarment <strong>to</strong> have much morepersonality than a jacket.Read on for the righ<strong>to</strong>nes for youClassic v-neck fineknit cardiganAgain the shape is so classic that it isinterchangeable with the style abovebut for one thing. The neckline. This willalways be more flattering for elongatingthe neck.Consider breaking up the hard horizontalline that the fastened garment makesacross the hip or s<strong>to</strong>mach area byundoing the last few but<strong>to</strong>ns. This s<strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>sthe body looking as though it has beencut in half..cardiganThis is really a soft version of the jacketand works very well for more formalsettings. The office or interview situationswhere you want <strong>to</strong> give an approachableair are two good uses. It is usually fastenedat the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> with one or two featurebut<strong>to</strong>ns and is made of <strong>heavy</strong> and densewool so that it keeps its shape. <strong>Good</strong> forall shapes.Especially good for large or squareshoulders because it has a softeningeffect.Oblong cardiganThis style has become very popular inrecent seasons. It rarely fastens and hangseither side of the body with the unevenhem reaching the mid thigh and obscuringpart of it, <strong>to</strong> create a minimising effect.The strong vertical lines it makes upand down your body will also elongateyour frame –the taller you are the longerthe hemline needs <strong>to</strong> be. Chunky or fineand floaty, you can wear the oblong cardiall season round.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 53


Step SixWrap cardiganClassic scoop necked fine knit cardiganCropped cardiganTie front cardiganWrap cardiganA wrap cardigan allows you <strong>to</strong> create thedefinition you want underneath the bustand around the ribs and tummy.Classic scoop neckedfine knit cardiganThis will have a single breasted fasteningwith a thin line of but<strong>to</strong>ns through thecentre of the body. Fittings will rangefrom loose fit <strong>to</strong> fitted. This is a classictraditional garment that works well inevery wardrobe.Cropped cardiganThis style is similar <strong>to</strong> the cropped jacketwe’ve already featured. In a knitted form,however, it can be more playful and a bitmore sensual. It needs <strong>to</strong> be simple withnot <strong>to</strong>o much detail <strong>to</strong> work. Smallpocket and dainty fastenings are justright. It will change the proportions ofthe body if you have even bodysymmetry, making the legs appear longer.Because it is not fitted it ismore flattering for a slender shape.Tie front cardiganLove these styles because they areuniversally flattering. The trick is the tiefastening which pulls in the waist andcreates definition for the body. There isn’ta shape they don’t suit.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 54


Step SixBolero cardiganBolero tie cardigan Shawl neck wrap cardigan with tieLong line cardiganBolero cardiganThese have been very popular in recentseasons and work as a great outer layerover summer dresses or evening styledresses.They can come in fine ormedium weight yarns and will changethe proportion of the body significantly,drawing the eye up <strong>to</strong> the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> of thebody.A useful garment for creating more volumearound the bust and suggesting theillusion of long legs.Bolero tie cardiganYou often see these styles in the summerand they’re different from the plainbolero cardigan I’ve just featured becausethey tie under the bust giving muchbetter definition <strong>to</strong> curves.Shawl neck wrapcardigan with tieThis is a classic piece of knitwear andusually appears in <strong>heavy</strong>, chunky yarn <strong>to</strong>give the whole look of the garment aluxurious feel but can also appear inmedium weight yarns. It makes anywearer look instantly chic and works justas well with jeans as it does with moreformal choices.When the waist is defined in this way,hips and bust become more prominent.Long line cardiganThis is a great shape cardigan thatallows the wearer <strong>to</strong> leave open. Itmay appear with a knitted waterfallstyle collar or a soft shawl collar aspictured. It creates elongationthrough the <strong>to</strong>rso and is a veryversatile garment.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 55


BriefingShop like <strong>Caryn</strong>Because I have worked with clothes for so many years,I have a different approach <strong>to</strong> choosing clothes formyself. It’s a mind set that I want you <strong>to</strong> start <strong>to</strong>explore because it will help you <strong>to</strong> organise your stylemore easily.The reason I can be so confident that this new approach <strong>to</strong>choosing clothes will work for you is because I know how mucheasier my life is now.But <strong>to</strong> take you back, I remember shopping when I was in my lateteens on a limited budget and I know how disheartening it is <strong>to</strong> feelyou can’t find the right clothes <strong>to</strong> suit you.In my case it was because I was unconfident about my body and it’schanging shape - suddenly I had curves and all the things I had reliedupon <strong>to</strong> see me through before looked strange now that my bodyhad in my eyes ‘puffed up.’ For a while I blamed my body. I punished itby trying <strong>to</strong> go without food so that it would return <strong>to</strong> ‘normal,’ and Ispent longer looking in the mirror. I think I was trying <strong>to</strong> find the oldme. It was hard <strong>to</strong> accept the new me especially when she didn’tmeasure up <strong>to</strong> my standards and society’s standards of a thin andsymmetrically proportioned body.I trawled the shops looking for the ‘right <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>’ or the ‘best jeans;’ thesewere clothes that would make me feel better about myself. I neverfound them of course and I felt disheartened after every shopping tripand I felt unattractive.From the letters I get I know that many women feel that samediscomfort about their bodies when they go shopping. Being used <strong>to</strong>seeing so many fashion images where the clothes seem <strong>to</strong> fit themodels so beautifully, we then become our own worst critics at themirror as we scan our bodies.Because we invest in clothes with the ability <strong>to</strong> make us feel better,more attractive, thinner, shapelier and many other unachievable thingsbesides, we are often looking for an emotional fix when we buy clothes.When we don’t find that comfort or high, we think we have failed.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 56


BriefingIf you can remove the emotional stuff and assess your body practicallyand apply the styling <strong>to</strong>ols you have learned, then you can makebig changes <strong>to</strong> your look.For many years I have bought clothes because they suit my skin <strong>to</strong>neand body shape and show me in the best light. I don’t have <strong>to</strong> love them!I just know they work best on my shape. When I look in the mirror Iam checking for fit and compatibility. Turn your thinking around <strong>to</strong> take amore unemotional view and I promise you it will be more effective.<strong>Caryn</strong>’s <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> shopping tips.• Don’t browse or surf without purpose. Only visit the shops whenyou have identified a gap in your wardrobe or an item you need.• Give yourself a budget and visit only the shops where you know youget a good fit.• Wear clothes that are easy <strong>to</strong> take off and on so that it is easy <strong>to</strong>keep on visiting the changing room.• Take wipes – we all get hot and bothered when we are trying onclothes, especially in hot weather.• Some clothes have a lot of hanger appeal like pretty feminine flouncyclothes but they can disappoint. Do not prioritise pretty things on thehanger – look at the garment carefully for the features you know willsuit your body shape before you consider trying on.• Never buy anything intending <strong>to</strong> slim in<strong>to</strong> it.• Use the sizing as a guide only. I had exactly this with a client recentlywhere the smaller dress did not fit but she was in raptures. When Iinsisted she try the larger dress – which fitted beautifully – she was notso happy and couldn’t see the truth in the mirror. It has <strong>to</strong> be all aboutfit, not the size. Cut out the label at home later if this helps.• Whenever you find yourself getting ready <strong>to</strong> buy something, thinkabout how it will work with the rest of your wardrobe, what else youwill wear it with and where you see yourself wearing it. If you can’tenvisage either, then consider this a big alarm bell and don’t buy.• Set yourself a time limit and if you haven’t found what you arelooking for when it has expired s<strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>. Find out when new s<strong>to</strong>ck arrivesand reschedule.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 57


Step SevenStep Seven. AccessoriesAccessoriesAccessories are the extrasthat will give your lookpolish. It is always better <strong>to</strong>go for one or two statementpieces that will draw the eye<strong>to</strong> where they are placed <strong>to</strong>give off a confident andconsidered finish. When youget dressed stand backandread the look you have createdthen consider whetherany accessories willgive you better balance.It’s time <strong>to</strong> look at those important finishing <strong>to</strong>uches.Trends will always come and go. One season there will be mini-clutchbags and the next large floppy holdalls. Just think of the way thatsunglasses morph from huge Jackie O style windscreens <strong>to</strong> minimal andframeless slivers of shade. Once you understand how <strong>to</strong> balanceyour body, you’ll always make quick easy choices.Do• Choose medium shapes. Anything that is <strong>to</strong>o small will make yourupper body seem larger. For bags, choose structured shapes forsophistication.• Consider colour because, if you choose a bright or noticeable design,the eye will always be drawn <strong>to</strong> the point you place it on your body. Itfollows then that, if you hold your bag low, you are foreshorteningyour body, whereas if you hang it from your shoulder, you are takingthe eye upwards.• Do choose medium frames for your glasses and sunglasses and,where colour is concerned, apply the pigment rule (as outlined in thecolour section) by matching the <strong>to</strong>ne of the frame or lenses <strong>to</strong> yourown skin and hair <strong>to</strong>ne. For instance, if you are blonde try amber orrose coloured frames; if you are dark, you can go for bolder <strong>to</strong>nes.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 58


Step SevenStructured bag/Kelly style bag Bag shapesI’ve talked about the size ofaccessoriesin relation <strong>to</strong>your body shape so, whenchoosing a bag, make sureyou hold it up <strong>to</strong> yourself inthe mirror; this will be one ofthe easiest ways <strong>to</strong> seewhether it is in proportionwith your shape. Of coursea page with anything aboutbags on it could be a verylong one (since we all haveour favourites) but I’veincluded the most classicshapes for you <strong>to</strong> hunt down.That way you can begin <strong>to</strong>build up a wardrobe of bagsin different colours <strong>to</strong>compliment your clothes.Don’t• Select a handbag so large that it could double as a small hotel roomand overshadow you..• Choose soft, unstructured pouchy bags that don’t have any adultsophistication or can be mistaken for a third breast.• Wear enormous frames that reduce you <strong>to</strong> learner driver behindthem or choose tiny frames that make your face look larger.• Fall in love with <strong>heavy</strong>-soled, platform wedges that make you look likeyou are wearing the shoe equivalent of the living-room sofa.Structuredbag/Kelly style bagThis is a bag that has a hard frame andlooks perfect for more formal usage likeoffice or a special occasion. Originallynamed after Grace Kelly by its makersHermes, it has inspired many copies. Itcomes in many colours and designsbut it is the square corners that are thekey part of the design. A bag like thisone needs co-ordinating with formalfeminine shoes <strong>to</strong>o.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 59


Step SevenSaddlebag styleOblong clutchPouch bag Soft structured bag with flapSoft structured bowling bagSaddlebag styleThis bag has more softness <strong>to</strong> it. It is apopular shape since being chosen byJohn Galliano at Dior <strong>to</strong> represent the‘house’ look. It is usually in leather andneeds a thought out approach. Shoes orboots need <strong>to</strong> work with it because it isa dominant shape.Oblong clutchIf you are choosing an evening bag thenthe oblong clutch is a great shape. Easy<strong>to</strong> hold, it has a flattering effect and workwell with eveningwear or fitted 50’sinspired summer dresses. Sometimesclutches can be eye catching inthemselves because they are bright, shinyand jewel-like so match carefully <strong>to</strong> otheraccessories.Pouch bagThis is a soft and squashy shape that hasenjoyed popularity on the catwalk. It canbe fabric, plain, pattered or leather. It hasa fleshy feel <strong>to</strong> it and shouldn’t be overstuffed. It can be very eye catching,almost like a novelty <strong>to</strong>uch and doesn’tneed <strong>to</strong> be matched <strong>to</strong> your shoes.Soft structured bagwith flapThis style of bag is less harsh than thestructured Kelly bag style. It is moreversatile for both occasion and officedressing as well as more informalsettings. It adapts well <strong>to</strong> colours andpastel colours and is great for summer.Soft structuredbowling bagMuccia Prada introduced the bowlingbag shape but it has already becomepopular amongst image consciouswomen. It often appears with extrapockets, flaps and side zips and has ayoung sporty feel.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 60


Step SevenLong loose oblong Long WraparoundLong loose looped scarf Long loose oblongScarvesScarves are <strong>to</strong>ols for yourcreativity. They are a helpfuland practical accessorythat will add colour or pattern<strong>to</strong> your look. Becausethey draw the eye, however,neutral coloured scarvescan be just as effective as styling<strong>to</strong>ols but less attentionseeking. This is something <strong>to</strong>have a play in the mirror withso that you can decideupon your own approach.This scarf when used as a contrastingcolour or pattern will take the eye upand down the body <strong>to</strong> create long leanslines <strong>to</strong> elongate you and streamline yourupper body. It is an excellent device.Long wraparoundA scarf that is circled round the neckmany times will make a neck look moreslender and shoulders smaller.Avoid if you have small or slopingshoulders.Long looselooped scarfWhen a scarf is looped it draws the eye<strong>to</strong> wherever the loop is placed. It is agreat device for adding volume at thechest and a useful foreshortening device.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 61


Step SevenThe necklace pandant and necklineDrop pendant JewelleryCostume jewellery is just oneof the best ways <strong>to</strong> showothers your confidentapproach <strong>to</strong> styling. It canalso create a dominantneckline that flatters yourshape when you wearover a polo-neck jumperor on bare flesh.The necklace pendantand necklineBeware the necklace that does battlewith the clothing neckline you havechosen; this will end up looking cluttered,fussy and indecisive - the two need <strong>to</strong>be separate.As a general rule, delicate jewelleryneeds <strong>to</strong> be against the flesh, whereascostume jewellery can look just as goodagainst clothing.Drop pendantA longer pendant will always dis<strong>to</strong>rt thelength of the neckline and the upper<strong>to</strong>rso. This style of pendant can make anyplain <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> look very glamorous. Don’t addit <strong>to</strong> a busy <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> with lots going on downthe front however.Great - an invaluable <strong>to</strong>ol for workingwith a tall body or a long upper <strong>to</strong>rso.<strong>Good</strong> also for large or square shoulders.Avoid if you are petite or have narrowor sloping shoulders.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 62


Step SevenThe chokerLarge beadsStrings of chainsLarge pendantThe chokerThis is a great piece of jewellery thatgives slender necks some glamour andcoverage. It can be worn with a highcollar or just as well with a straplessgown.Avoid if you have a short neck or largeor square shoulders.Large beadsThe larger your body is, the larger youneed your jewellery pieces <strong>to</strong> be. Thismay be stating the obvious but a wellbalanced necklace will make your necklook more slender.Strings of chainsThe overall effect here is <strong>to</strong> create anaccessories look with more volume <strong>to</strong>flatter a larger or taller body. Make sureyou balance the size and height ofyour body by adding or taking awayindividual chains.Large pendantA large pendant looks stunning and willalways help you <strong>to</strong> make a dramaticimpact. The actual size of the pendantmust be in proportion with your body <strong>to</strong>create the best effect.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 63


Step SevenA pointed <strong>to</strong>eA round <strong>to</strong>eStrap across the instepCalves and anklesIt’s all in the details and evenfootwear can help <strong>to</strong>create elongation orforeshortening. This isparticularly important if youhave thick ankles or curvycalf muscles. Check yourown footwear cupboard forshoes that areunflattering and replacethem when you can.A pointed <strong>to</strong>eThe pointed <strong>to</strong>e is the style that offersthe best <strong>to</strong>ol <strong>to</strong> create a longer lookingleg especially when worn as a court orsling back style as shown here. For thisreason court style shoes tend be used <strong>to</strong>create drama for evening or formalwear.And when you bring colour in<strong>to</strong> it, youcan exaggerate the length even furtherso replicate the colour of your skirt ortrouser for added length. Never choosethis style <strong>to</strong> match your skin <strong>to</strong>ne,however, as it will make your foot lookenormous!Great for curvy calves and thick ankles.A round <strong>to</strong>eA round <strong>to</strong>e is fashionable from time<strong>to</strong> time and when worn as a court styleor slingback style with no extra strapscan look elegant on most legs. This canappear as a casual flat shoe (ballerinapump) or a heel. It will give you good legelongation when worn as a heel.Prioritise a round <strong>to</strong>e if you havelarge feet, as this will immediatelyforeshorten them.Strap across the instepShoes like these can have any sized heel.The appearance of them is practical andthey make great work shoes. You canbegin <strong>to</strong> see how the leg looks immediatelyshorter. It is that simple. It alsobegins <strong>to</strong> focus the eye on the ankle.Great for larger feet. Avoid if you havethick ankles.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 64


Step SevenAnkle strapAnkle ties or Gladia<strong>to</strong>r stylesOpen <strong>to</strong>ed strappy shoes The platform The peep <strong>to</strong>eAnkle strapThis style begins <strong>to</strong> shorten the leg anddraw attention <strong>to</strong> the calf, making itseem wider than it is. It also makes thefoot seem larger than it is if the design isflat at the heel.Avoid if you have short legs.Avoid if you have thick ankles or curvycalf muscles.Ankle ties orgladia<strong>to</strong>r styleAny style of shoe that has strapstravelling up the leg from the shoe cancreate a foreshortening effect on the leg<strong>to</strong> make it look wider and shorterOpen <strong>to</strong>ed strappy shoesThese will always be a popular choiceand can appear as a simple sandal styleas illustrated here or as a much moreglamourous evening shoe with a heel. Itlooks frivolous and fun so avoid insituations where you want <strong>to</strong> createsome authority like work. You will nodoubt be seeing the effect of thehorizontal lines in shortening the foot,now that you have absorbed so many ofthe <strong>to</strong>ols in this book.Choose thicker straps if you havelarger feet.The platformThis style can sometimes appear as asmall built up area of the sole or it canbe a very large and chunky feature of theshoe.Choose a platform <strong>to</strong> balance your ankleand calf in the knowledge that a thickchunky shoe can make legs look morestreamlined.The peep <strong>to</strong>eThis is a universally flattering stylebecause it helps <strong>to</strong> make all feet looksmaller. It also tidies up the <strong>to</strong>es andbecause not everywoman has goodlooking feet allows for the best of bothworlds. It is also very adaptable for bothformal and fun looks..<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 65


Step SevenLow ankle length bootHigh ankle length bootThe shoe bootBootsThere are now a huge varietyof styles. Boots are nolonger just used forcold weather since thecatwalk saw the potential ofthem <strong>to</strong> lengthen theleg and add warmth andglamour at the same time.Clever selection of bootscan flatter your legs <strong>to</strong>o.Low ankle length bootThis style is usually worn with highfashion garments like pencil skirtsand culottes.High ankle length bootsThese boots are perfect for a cleanline under trousers and should neverbe worn with skirts or short, croppedtrousers.Under trousers they suit all body shapes.The shoe bootThe shoe boot is a fashion style that hasbecome popular and will foreshortenyour leg if worn with a skirt. Experimentwith matching hosiery and skirt <strong>to</strong> get itlooking right. It doeswork very well with trousers that featurethe shoe as a fashion statement.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 66


Step Seven<strong>Caryn</strong> says... If you struggle <strong>to</strong> getthe width around your calf duoboots.comoffer narrow & wide fitsFitted knee high bootMid calf bootsKnee high boots with a cuffFitted knee high bootThe fitted boot is a classic style and suitsmost legs and body shapes. The heel willchange according <strong>to</strong> fashion whims,ranging from thin <strong>to</strong> chunky, but the effec<strong>to</strong>n the body as a whole is justthe same.This will be your most versatile buy andcan work with a structured skirt, culottes,formal cropped trousers and jeans.Mid calf bootsOften mid calf boots give an urban andpractical finish, especially if they are flat,but this calf length works just as wellwhen it appears with a heel <strong>to</strong>o. Wearunder skirts.Boots that cut across the calf at itswidest point will add bulk <strong>to</strong> the leg.Knee high bootswith a cuffThis style of boot in leather or suedecan be worn over slim line jeans andtrousers or under a skirt, which hassome structure.The cuff works <strong>to</strong> widen the leg and soforeshorten it slightly <strong>to</strong>o.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 67


Step SevenEmpire lineShift dress DressesDresses and dress designs arein and out of fashion.Sometimes the names of thedresses themselves can beconfusing. Here is a quickguide <strong>to</strong> all the basic shapes.Remember necklines, sleevedesigns and hem lengths areall extras <strong>to</strong> considerwhen choosing the rightshape for you.Empire lineThis style is very distinct because it isfitted from the shoulder and over thebust <strong>to</strong> pull in under the bust at theribcage. As a summer dress withlightweight fabric it appears with agathered and flared look. It can also befitted <strong>to</strong> the body <strong>to</strong> make a morecolumn like shape and appears as aformal style or in a longer gown.Shift dressThis is a short dress that has a sixtiesfeel <strong>to</strong> it. It is often in stiffer fabrics likestarched or treated cot<strong>to</strong>n so it doesnot mould <strong>to</strong> the body. Fashion dictateshow it is worn, sometimes over trousers,sometimes as a modern look on its own.Not a particularly flattering shape,however, unless you are model like.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 68


Step SevenShirt dressDropped waist dressWrap dressShirt dressA lovely classic style of dress with acentral fastening through the middle ofthe body. Will always work well in officesettings and casual settings depending onyour choice of colour and accessories.This is universally flattering style becauseit is gently fitted <strong>to</strong> the body.The vertical line, which runs subtlythrough the centre of the body, willelongate the body.Dropped waist dressChanging the proportions of the waist, asthis dress does, will always create alonger leaner line through the centre ofthe body. But placing the waist so muchlower down the body take the eyelinedownwards.Dresses appear as casual jersey styleaffairs or can be very dressy flapper styledesigns. There is also the low neck andthe low waisted wrap style <strong>to</strong>o.Wrap dressThis has become a classic style, wornboth in the office situation because it canlook very ordered and authoritative, butalso casual and dressy <strong>to</strong>o. Madein a figure hugging fabric like jersey, itis very flattering for most body shapesbecause of the definition it gives <strong>to</strong> theupper <strong>to</strong>rso.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 69


Step SevenBias cut dressTunic dressWaisted dressBias cut dressAny dress that is cut on the bias hasstretch within the fabric and will wraparound the hips gently. This dress is verypared down and doesn’t feature anypockets or collar detail because it is solightweight and diaphanous. It appearsas a day dress as well as an eveningdress and is a very sensual style.Tunic dress.The Tunic dress, like the shift dress, ispretty unforgiving and does not moulditself <strong>to</strong> the body’s form. It appears asa catwalk garment that is adapted forthose who like an ‘on trend look.’ It isalways pared down and has a strictslightly androgynous look.This makes it good for formal andworking situations.Waisted dressA classic style of dress that will adapteach season <strong>to</strong> the catwalks trends; it isfitted <strong>to</strong> the upper body and then flaresout from the waist. This style draws theeye straight <strong>to</strong> the waist, which isenhanced because the skirt kicks out.More exaggerated shapes haveappeared as cocktail dresses and it isoften seen as a strapless shape forspecial occasion wear.Suitable for all heights.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 70


Step EightStep Eight. What wouldyou look like taller?I have been giving tips along the way that talk aboutlengthening or foreshortening the body.Blouson style dress.This is a loose fitting dress that may bestrapless as shown here or it mayhave sleeves (depending on howdesigners have used it for theircollections). The feature is the elasticisedwaist that blouses out around theupper <strong>to</strong>rso. This adds volume <strong>to</strong> the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>part of the body.So, just <strong>to</strong> recap, it’s all about where you draw the eye. Understandinghow <strong>to</strong> use detail on clothes, jewellery, colour, pattern and print cangive you that effortless sophistication that no one else can put their fingeron. Take the eye <strong>to</strong> the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> third of your body by using any featureI have just mentioned. That way others will read the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> part of youwhich creates the illusion of height.Do• Wear <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s with embroidery, beading or pattern at the shoulders orneckline.• Use a v-neck <strong>to</strong> create interest at the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> of your body, helping <strong>to</strong>make your neck look longer and also <strong>to</strong> minimise a full bosom.• Wear earrings and medium-weight necklaces or pendants that sit justbelow the collarbone but no lower.• Consider detail at the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> of your head such as hair accessories.Sunglasses perched on <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> of your head or a hairstyle with a highcrown will also help.Don’t• Wear a long skirt with all the detail at the hemlineThe smock dressThis (like the <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>) has a fitted yoke thateases in<strong>to</strong> a gathered effect across thecleavage. It will always add volume <strong>to</strong>this area. It is usually found in casual andsummer clothes.• Wear a <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> with a high neckline – it will make your upper body look larger.• Place brooches <strong>to</strong>o low down the body.• Wear long pendants that take the eye <strong>to</strong> the waist.• Choose clothes with slabs of colour at the bot<strong>to</strong>m of a short skirtthat will still take the eye <strong>to</strong> a point below the hips.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 71


Step NineStep Nine. Subtle linesAll clothes create subtle horizontal and vertical lines.I’m not talking about stripy prints but vertical seams, pleats, pipingand horizontal yokes, waistbands and hemlines. Lines that runlengthways down your body create an illusion of slimness and height.Lines that run widthways across your body create the illusion of widthand shortening. So, put simply, your ideal scenario would be <strong>to</strong> usesubtle lengthening and narrowing details through your middle. Shirtswith vertical stripes or vertical seams; cardigans with central fasteningand <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s with a central vertical panel feature, like a vertical frill downthe middle, will all work very well. A great <strong>to</strong>ol for you is a long fabricscarf (the sequinned ones have been popular for this but look for acurrent equivalent) that will loosely hang from your neck creating awonderful vertical line down your <strong>to</strong>rso and <strong>to</strong> your hip. You can alsouse longer jackets very successfully <strong>to</strong> draw a vertical line revealing avertical panel of body underneath.You can make the choice, however, about what and how you weareverything because what I have given you in this book are <strong>to</strong>ols not rules!<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 72


BriefingAre models happierwith their bodies?It looks like models have a wonderful life doesn’t it?We see these creatures beautifully made up and adorned in the mostexquisite designer clothes, pho<strong>to</strong>graphed in the most sophisticatedsettings. It’s possible <strong>to</strong> believe that they really are living that life, feelingfulfilled and content. The fact is, most feel just like you and I. When theshoot is over they must return <strong>to</strong> their real lives. Yes they have bad daysand good days; they have the same worries about how <strong>to</strong> pay the bills andwhat they will do next <strong>to</strong> earn money. Relationships <strong>to</strong>o are just ascomplex and challenging. Security, honesty and respect don’t become anyeasier <strong>to</strong> find just because you model clothes for a living. In short thesewomen have the same struggles as you and I with one tiny difference.Every day, at each casting they will hear about all their imperfections.From morning <strong>to</strong> night, clients will tell them what is wrong with the waythey look and why they don’t want them for the job. They <strong>to</strong>o will begin <strong>to</strong>see their short neck or thick ankles as an obstruction <strong>to</strong> their happiness.In a recent survey by a <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> British magazine where 5000 womenwere interviewed, 70% were unhappy with the way their bodies looked.Nearly 50% were on diets and many were using laxatives or even fasting.I know <strong>to</strong>o from the letters you write <strong>to</strong> me that many of you feellife would be better if your bodies were slimmer, curvier, more <strong>to</strong>ned,lighter weight etc.Our relationships with ourselves can be very confusing and it is easy <strong>to</strong>fantasise when we look at the pictures, since all models appear happyor confident in the pho<strong>to</strong>graphs – that their physical perfection is thekey <strong>to</strong> their happiness. Remember they are being paid <strong>to</strong> smile and allthe clothes they are wearing are pinned at the back <strong>to</strong> look as thoughthey actually fit perfectly.Being happy with who you are and creating relationships based onhonesty and respect is the key <strong>to</strong> your happiness. Clothes will not helpyou do this but, knowing that you have chosen designs and shapes <strong>to</strong>help you look your very best, will leave you free <strong>to</strong> concentrate on themore important things in life.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 73


BriefingI often list these points when I am giving presentations. So herethey are for you:1 There is no such thing as a perfect, effortless body. Every grownwoman has cellulite, a round tummy and uneven breasts, even models.We just forget <strong>to</strong> remind ourselves of this against the media backdropof post adolescent femininity so provocatively packaged in thoseairbrushed adverts.2 The catwalk is a strange place. Hailing a cab, running for a bus andsitting down are all things we do during our day but I have yet <strong>to</strong>see a fully styled model capable of performing these actions safelyon a runway.3 The beautiful woman who earns her living in front of the camera istragically preoccupied with her own minor imperfections since she isjudged daily on her ability <strong>to</strong> portray a rigid feminine ideal. For oneclient her ankles will be <strong>to</strong>o fat or her eyes <strong>to</strong>o close, for another herlegs will be <strong>to</strong>o stubby or her teeth <strong>to</strong>o gappy. She will have beenmade so miserable <strong>to</strong> earn the job that only the thought of theresultant wages brings a fleeting smile <strong>to</strong> her face.4 Of course red carpet film stars wear intricate support underwearthat looks like a flesh coloured sports kit under their thin silk dresses. Ifyou knew you were going <strong>to</strong> be assessed, judged, weighed up,postmortemed, condemned and crucified for choosing an unflatteringparty frock by the world’s fashion press, so would you.5 Designers don’t all get <strong>to</strong>gether in a room and decide <strong>to</strong> makewomen feel insecure about their bodies. It only looks that way.6 The word ‘Outsize’ should be taken out and shot for transgressionsagainst womankind. This is an appalling term, which all by itself hastraumatised generations of curvy women. Size 16 is the national Britishaverage size.7 You are not more attractive because you are in pain - high heels, tightclothes and hair that looks like it is nailed <strong>to</strong> the scalp may be whatappears <strong>to</strong> work in a fashion pho<strong>to</strong>graph but these images takemoments <strong>to</strong> capture. All models remove their make up, hair accessoriesand other fashion accoutrements immediately after the shootand step in<strong>to</strong> dog-eared trainers and comfy jeans. That’s what I wear <strong>to</strong>write pieces like this and, despite the latest trend information in all yourfavourite magazines, so can you, whenever you want!<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 74


Step TenStep Ten. Top-<strong>heavy</strong> bewareNow you understand the basics...Flared skirtSkirt shapesSkirts are quite simply theeasiest garments of all <strong>to</strong>wear. Unlike trousers thathave a complicated fittinground the crotch and hips,they use fewer measurementsand can fit the body moreeasily. The two mainconsiderations are waistline -does it fit neatly around yourmiddle and hemline? Is itsitting at the right lengthfor your legs? All are drawnas knee length but shouldbe adapted <strong>to</strong> suit your ownleg shape and height asshown further on. Rememberalso that none are shownwith patterns or colours.Apply the individualinformation you have in thisbook on colour and pattern<strong>to</strong> get the mostflattering look.Flared skirtThe interpretation of the flare will bedown <strong>to</strong> you. Some can be noticeablyflared and some more subtlebordering on an A-line style skirt. Thiswill be your most versatile choice of skirtsimply because it hides any hip orbot<strong>to</strong>m shape and focuses on the waist.Your extra tip is <strong>to</strong> draw the eye away from your bosom and tummyby remembering never <strong>to</strong> place eye catching detail around this area.Large bold print, frills, fussy features bright colour and even <strong>heavy</strong>jewellery will all draw attention. But<strong>to</strong>ns that create fabric gaps or materialsthat strain and wrinkle across your bosom are verynoticeable. So <strong>to</strong>o is thin jersey material that shows bra bands cuttingin<strong>to</strong> the flesh.Step Eleven. We’ve come <strong>to</strong>the end of your workshopThis is all the information I cover in my workshopand I’m delighted <strong>to</strong> have passed it on <strong>to</strong> you.This is all the information I cover in my workshop and I’m delighted <strong>to</strong>have passed it on <strong>to</strong> you. With the new styling <strong>to</strong>ols you now have, Ihope you can begin <strong>to</strong> embody and embrace the style that you want.Changing your image can take a little time so don’t be <strong>to</strong>o hard onyourself if you can’t immediately switch your wardrobe over. But recognisingthat every clothing purchase you make from now on is a step<strong>to</strong>wards the ‘new and stylishly attired you,’ is the first step.I hope that I have helped you <strong>to</strong> understand how your image is aspecial relationship you can have with yourself for years <strong>to</strong> come.Don’t let the fashion industry spoil that relationship by making you feelconfused about what suits you. By all means, keep yourself up <strong>to</strong> dateeffortlessly by reading through our trends reports.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 75


Step Ten Pencil skirt Yoke and flared skirt Handkerchief hemlinePencil skirtThis classic style elongates legs becauseit is tapered at the back; there needs <strong>to</strong>be a small vent <strong>to</strong> allow you <strong>to</strong> take largeenough steps <strong>to</strong> walk. It will work bestwith a heel <strong>to</strong> give the feet atapered look.Yoke and flared skirt.This style of skirt is fitted <strong>to</strong> the hips andthen flared from the hips. It has the appearanceof lowering the waist.Handkerchief hemlineThis skirt will always look edgy or quirkybecause of the uneven effect around thehemline. For it <strong>to</strong> work well the focusmust be on the legs (and shoes orboots). It therefore takes the eyeline <strong>to</strong>the lower half of the body. A great style<strong>to</strong> reduce fullness in ankles and calves <strong>to</strong>create more shape and femininity.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 76


Step TenCircle skirtCulottes’ style skirtBias cut skirtCircle skirtThis is a shape that is dictated by fashionand will appear from time <strong>to</strong> time. Theinterpretation of the volume of the circlewill be up <strong>to</strong> you - it often has theappearance of a puffed look. An extremeversion will always look more like acatwalk look, whereas a morecommercial version will be subtle andmore flattering.Culottes’ style skirtThis style of skirt will often appear as asmart tailored style and is verycomfortable and flattering <strong>to</strong> wear whenteamed with a well-cut jacket or pareddown shirt or <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>.Bias cut skirtThis style of skirt looks sensual andfeminine.It can appear as a summer skirt or anevening style and, because it is cut on thebias of the fabric, will have plenty of give.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 77


Step TenTiered skirtVertical ruffled skirtWrap front skirtTiered skirtA tiered skirt has a gypsy feel <strong>to</strong> it and isoften seen as a versatile summer orcasual wear look. I’ve seen it look justas good in cord or denim <strong>to</strong>o. Becauseof the horizontal lines it has a wideningeffect.Vertical ruffled skirtThis style of skirt has the same feminineappeal as the tiered skirt but a muchlonger line and therefore creates a morestreamlining and lengthening effect.Wrap front skirtThis style of skirt has a classic appeal andcan appear as a tailored skirt with apareddown feel; or in a softer fabric willwork well as a more casual look. It is usuallyfitted <strong>to</strong> the body around the waistand hips and has a straight silhouettefrom the hips <strong>to</strong> the knees. Because ofthe vertical line through the body it willalways make the legs appear longer.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 78


Step TenFly front, straight legFlared trousersPleated front trousersTrousersTrousers are wonderfulgarments that just adaptthemselves <strong>to</strong> whatever thetrend or the occasion requires.It is for that reasonthat we see a large varietyof shapes. A well cut andfitted pair of trousers canbe the best addition <strong>to</strong> yourwardrobe but a pair that doesnot flatter your shape willsabotage your style more effectivelythan any other item.Fit is also crucial because,warped or baggy crotchesare not only unstylish, theydraw the eye right <strong>to</strong> thepoint. Finally a word abouthemlines. Heels need morelength than flats <strong>to</strong> give alonger leg. Never wear thesame pair of trousers withyour flats and heels, justhave more than one pair oftrousers if you like <strong>to</strong>alternate between heels.Fly front, straight legThis style of trouser is copied from theItalian cut of mans trouser and is masculinein feel with a straight leg. It will oftenhave a lower waistband <strong>to</strong>o just like themen’s version.Flared trousersThis design of trouser is the mostflattering for a woman’s body becauseit is cut <strong>to</strong> flatter curves, the wide flaredhem line will always balance curvy thighsand add volume <strong>to</strong> slender ones. Make<strong>Caryn</strong> says... Trousers look greatsure you spend time getting the fit right.This style can disguise the shape of legsand thighs with excellent results.Pleated front trousersThis style can look mannish andshapeless unless worn with care. Thearea round the tummy is cut <strong>to</strong> givespace around the tummy area andpocket area and give a bit of an AnnieHall effect when worn with other loosefitting clothing.under tunics and long <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s <strong>to</strong>o<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 78


Step TenTapered leg trouserHareem pantsBootleg cut trouserTapered leg trousersThis style of trouser fits the legs, thighsand bot<strong>to</strong>m very closely. It rarely works(unless you have model proportions)without a cleverly styled longerlength <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>.Hareem pants.This style enjoys popularity from time <strong>to</strong>time because designers like <strong>to</strong> ring thechanges. It is a soft voluminous shapethat disguises the appearance of thighsand bot<strong>to</strong>m whatever your shape. Afitted waist is a must <strong>to</strong> create a flatteringshape at the tummy. Hems are eithercuffed or gathered anchoring the fabricround the leg, however, the length mayvary from below knee <strong>to</strong> ankle but willalways place the focus on footwear.It is worth experimenting with cut andshape here because this garment can beextreme with a dropped crotch andacres of fabric or quite subtle, taking theform of a pair of soft cuffed slouch pants.It is important <strong>to</strong> note though that witha baggy lower half your <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong> must be fitted<strong>to</strong> create definition.Bootleg cut trouserThis is a subtly flattering style that iswider at the bot<strong>to</strong>m of the leg than the<strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>. It will be fitted more closely <strong>to</strong> thethigh than the flared trousers and is agood general all rounder for any shapewhen styled with the right <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 80


Step TenPalazzo pants Knee length shorts Capri pants Cropped trousers<strong>Caryn</strong> says...Cropped styleslook great witha small heel orwedgePalazzo pantThis is a wide loose fitting style oftrouser that usually appears free of <strong>to</strong>omuch detail in linen, cot<strong>to</strong>n or otherlightweight fabrics - anything heavier andit would look like you have tree trunklegs. Because of the width of this designit will create a foreshortening.Knee length shortsShorts have enjoyed a great deal ofpopularity as a formal item teamed withfeminine footwear. <strong>How</strong>ever, unlike theskirt of the same length (which is moreforgiving), the tailored short is allabout the legs.Be very aware of your choice of hosieryand shoes <strong>to</strong> make this a stylishstatement.Capri pants.This style is fitted <strong>to</strong> the leg and croppedjust above the calf. It will be free of <strong>to</strong>omuch detail as it needs <strong>to</strong> hug the body;pockets for instance will be tiny.Cropped trousersThis is a very flattering cut with a classychoice of footwear and works well informal situations <strong>to</strong> show that you have astylish confidence. The hemline shouldbe level with the lower calf not thewidest part. Shop around for the rightfit for you.NB If you choose a boot make sure it ishigher up the leg than the hem of thetrouser so that the line is smooth. Neverwear the boot slightly lower than thehemline - it’s very very messy.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 81


Step TenAbove the kneeOn the knee Skirt LengthThe length of the skirt youchoose will work with allyour <strong><strong>to</strong>p</strong>s <strong>to</strong> create the rightbalance for your body. Onceyou have the lengths thatflatter your shape fixed inyour head use them as a guiderather than a rule becausethe design and width of theskirt will impact on thefinished result <strong>to</strong>o. It goeswith out saying that thereare lots of higher skirtlengths, which are perfectfor teens, and thosemodel-like pins but in thissection I am discussing theclassic lengths we mos<strong>to</strong>ften have in our wardrobes.Above the kneeA straight or pencil skirt will normallyhave an above the knee option so if youare tempted by this length ask yourself,can your knees stand up <strong>to</strong> it?On the kneeOn the knee hem length looks modernand chic. The skirt may be cut a littlewider <strong>to</strong> give a flattering loose fit.This hem length will draw attention <strong>to</strong>the shape of your calves.<strong>Caryn</strong> says... Bare legs need good evenskin <strong>to</strong>ne. I use Sally Hanson legfoundation spray<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 82


Step TenAnkle length Below the kneeMid calfAnkle lengthThis length cuts across a much narrowerpart of the leg and so is a natural choice<strong>to</strong> minimise curvy calves or legs.Below the kneeThis is the easiest length <strong>to</strong> wear for allbody shapes and can flatter slender andcurvy legs alike.This hemline length focuses less on theshape of your calves and is therefore lessattention seeking.Mid calfThis is an interesting length; notice howthe hemline cuts across the widest par<strong>to</strong>f the calf - accentuating the width ofthe leg.It can make slender legs look wider andby the same <strong>to</strong>ken curvy legs will lookwider <strong>to</strong>o.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franlin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 83


Step TenThe tunic and leggings.Another way <strong>to</strong> wear a higher hemline is by adding leggings <strong>to</strong> thetunic shape. The leggings provide a thick coverage and arefar less attention seeking than bare legs or tights. Flat shoes also makeit practical but heels are also a good choice <strong>to</strong> elongate the leg for ayounger look.<strong>Caryn</strong> says...leggings& skinny jeans arenow a classic staple<strong>to</strong> wear under tunics<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 84


FinallyI’ve enjoyed working with you and I’m excited <strong>to</strong> think that as a resul<strong>to</strong>f this book you are on your way <strong>to</strong> a life long enjoyment of clothes,fashion and your body. I want you <strong>to</strong> enjoy your body and celebrate whoyou are. The tips above will all help you <strong>to</strong> create a stylish sophisticatedexterior but, as we all know, true gorgeousness lives insideP.S. We hope you have enjoyed your e-book and find the informationuseful. We would welcome your feedback on either your e-book or thewebsite, <strong>to</strong> help us further improve our service <strong>to</strong> our readers. Pleasebe assured we will not use your name or comments on our sitewithout your permission.Please e-mail us now.Thanks!Have you found this book Useful? Would you like moreinformation about dressing well and styling creatively if youare over 40? I have written another e-book. “Ageless Style” isaimed at you with everything you need <strong>to</strong> know aboutlooking good at 40, 50 and beyond.P.S Don’t forget <strong>to</strong> subscribe <strong>to</strong> my newsletter forrecommendations on which garments <strong>to</strong> buy and why as wellas much more. Subscribe now at www.how<strong>to</strong>lookgood.com.And do check my blog where I show you my own stylesolutions and new buys: www.how<strong>to</strong>lookgood.com/blog<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong> 853

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