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standard and curvy.indd - Caryn Franklin's How to Look Good

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In the following pages I will show you how <strong>to</strong> choose clothes <strong>to</strong> suityour individual body shape. This is crucial for confidence. Knowing youhave chosen clothes that showcase your body in the best possiblelight, you can relax <strong>and</strong> enjoy yourself, free <strong>to</strong> be yourself or the personyou want <strong>to</strong> be.In this book I want <strong>to</strong> share with you my styling <strong>to</strong>ols. To do this clearly,I have broken down the book in<strong>to</strong> many different sections. In fact I’mreplicating the workshop I have given over the years for you <strong>to</strong> takepart in in the comfort of your own home!These are the styling <strong>to</strong>ols I use as a professional stylist when I amworking with ordinary women. Having seen these <strong>to</strong>ols make sucha difference over the years, I can honestly say that the skills you willacquire as you work through this book will make you think differentlyabout clothes for the rest of your days.I have been very careful <strong>to</strong> explain these <strong>to</strong>ols concisely <strong>and</strong> clearly.They appear as bullet points for the simple reason that I want you <strong>to</strong>absorb them for immediate use when you are shopping <strong>and</strong> of coursewhen you are dressing.DO YOU KNOW HOW TO READ CLOTHES?HAVE A LOOK AT THIS DRAWING. IT CONTAINS SOME BASIC CLOTHINGFEATURES. DO YOU EVER THINK ABOUT THE FEATURES ON THE CLOTHESYOU ARE BUYING? ALL WILL BE EXPLAINED LATER IN THE BOOK.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


I’ve also included action plans in the order that you should carrythem out for maximum effectiveness. There are three in the book; theyare very specific <strong>and</strong>, if you follow them, your will have a much moreorganised approach <strong>to</strong> your image.Throughout this e-book I will provide illustrations of the type ofclothes you should prioritise. Because fashion changes so rapidly thesedays, I have stripped away information that is <strong>to</strong>o trend orientedbecause I think it is more effective if I tell you what each aspect of yourclothing will do for you. That way you can prioritise clothes with thefeatures that suit you.Finally, in working behind the scenes in the fashion industry, I havelearned a lot about femininity <strong>and</strong> the way the industry viewsfemininity. I want <strong>to</strong> pass this on <strong>to</strong> you, <strong>to</strong> empower you. Wheneveryou feel insecure about the way you look (as happens <strong>to</strong> all of us fromtime <strong>to</strong> time when changes surprise us) re-read these features <strong>to</strong>remind you of the real deal.After you have read this book I know you will feel you canrevolutionise your image with the knowledge of a stylist. Thinking abouthow clothes work <strong>and</strong> the qualities they will bring <strong>to</strong> your body is thebest place <strong>to</strong> start. This is information that will last you for the rest ofyour life.DO YOU KNOW HOW TO READ CLOTHES?HERE ARE MORE CLOTHING FEATURES I WANT TO DISCUSS.UNDERSTANDING HOW TO CHOOSE CLOTHES WITH FEATURES THATWILL FLATTER YOUR SHAPE IS CRUCIAL AND SOMETHING I WILL EXPLAININ DETAIL AS WE GET FURTHER IN TO THE BOOK.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Round neckNECKLINESNECKLINES CAN BE ANEXCELLENT WAY OFELONGATING YOUR NECK. THEREARE MANY CLEVER TRICKS YOUCAN WORK WITH A WELL CHOSENNECKLINE. A HIGH NECKLINE, FORINSTANCE, HAS GREAT BENEFITSTO A SLENDER OR PETITE BODY.A LOW NECKLINE WILL ALWAYSWORK FOR FULLER SHAPES. FORTOP-HEAVY SHAPES YOUR BESTEVER STYLING TOOL WILL BE THENECKLINES YOU CHOOSESO READ ON FOR MY TRIEDAND TESTED GUIDE.ROUND NECKThis is a softly rounded neck tha<strong>to</strong>ften appears on t-shirts, shift dressesor fine knitwear.I have met so many women just like you who are looking <strong>to</strong> create animage that reflects who they are. One of the reasons it seems <strong>to</strong> be sodifficult is that the things we feel about our bodies <strong>and</strong> our image isconstantly manipulated by the media. We are encouraged <strong>to</strong> thinkabout dieting, <strong>to</strong>ning, looking younger, looking better <strong>and</strong> of course weare shown pictures of beautiful women looking effortlessly stunning. Asa result many women feel at odds with their bodies <strong>and</strong> spend a lot oftime focussing upon their imperfections.Your best travelling companion through this e-book will be youracceptance of your own body. Whatever its shape, it is healthy <strong>and</strong> it isyours. It is doing its best <strong>to</strong> support you through the day with a myriadof clever functions that you take for granted. Sadly many of us aren’tin <strong>to</strong>uch with this <strong>and</strong> forget that, before it is a clothes-horse, it is asophisticated biological miracle! Clothes then are the icing on the cake.Use them <strong>to</strong> celebrate all that you can be <strong>to</strong> yourself <strong>and</strong> others!I believe that styling is all about knowing your body <strong>and</strong> underst<strong>and</strong>inghow <strong>to</strong> use clothes <strong>and</strong> accessories <strong>to</strong> flatter. As a professional stylist,my job is one part clothes know-how <strong>and</strong> two parts clothescounselling! We all have insecurities <strong>and</strong> comfort zones, which arethere for a reason <strong>and</strong> clothes can work as a variety of things <strong>to</strong> oneperson – from camouflage or comfort blanket <strong>to</strong> corporate uniform.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Ballerina neckSquare neckBALLERINA NECKThis is a high wrap that generally has lessdepth than an ordinary v-neckline. Youwill find it in knitwear or <strong>to</strong>ps.SQUARE NECKThis can be found in <strong>to</strong>ps, dresses <strong>and</strong>occasionally in knitwear.A horizontal line running acrossthe <strong>to</strong>p of the body will accentuatebroadness <strong>and</strong> width.Avoid if you have square shoulders.If I were spending time with you, I would find out how you feel aboutyour body <strong>and</strong> how you have chosen <strong>to</strong> dress. Then I would set aboutchanging some of the visual boundaries you have cemented in place.I’ve often been <strong>to</strong>ld ‘I don’t do girly,’ ‘I’m <strong>to</strong>o big <strong>to</strong> wear that’ or ‘I don’thave the body for that. ’ These <strong>and</strong> many other rules we make forourselves need <strong>to</strong> be gently challenged; further in the book you will seemy responses <strong>to</strong> the things you tell me.Many women I work with also say how frustrating it is that thefashion industry seems <strong>to</strong> change its ideas <strong>and</strong> designs so frequently. Sojust when you have found a style or colour that suits you, you can’t besure of finding it the next season when the new ideas arrive. Similarly,fashion magazines often talk in seasons - telling you one thing oneseason only <strong>to</strong> change their ideas the next. The fact is, fashioninformation changes every season. There is no other industry I canthink of that puts out a different set of rules every six months. Imaginecookery writers telling you a br<strong>and</strong> new way <strong>to</strong> make a cake eachseason with completely different ingredients depending on whichingredients were seasonally approved. Or what about a gardeningmagazine that would recommend you change all the plants in yourgarden each season. It’s that spooky!Yet we receive the fashion industry in<strong>to</strong> our lives on that very basis.Of course change is good <strong>and</strong> making changes that feel right can beliberating. Feeling like you are forced <strong>to</strong> make changes, however,is not fun.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Crew neck CREW NECKThis is a fitted neckline, which hugs thebase of the neck. It is usually found onknitwear. A high neckline like this willalways make a neck look shorter.What I want <strong>to</strong> do is show you how <strong>to</strong> build a confident idea of whatwill work for you so that, although you read magazines <strong>and</strong> take in theever changing fashion information, you can now always make thechoices that are right for you, regardless of what is on the catwalkevery few months. This is information that you can use for the rest ofyour days <strong>and</strong> step out forever more in the knowledge that youlook fantastic.So let’s get down <strong>to</strong> business. I work with many different types ofwomen. I haven’t met one who doesn’t have set ideas about her styleor body. Some I may agree with <strong>and</strong> others I will attempt <strong>to</strong> changebecause they are based on outdated ideas she has about herself.These are some of the more common ones; perhaps there any somehere you recognise?<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


V neckScoop neckV-NECKThis is an elegant neckline with av- shaped drop. A high v-neck is oftenfound in knitwear <strong>and</strong> a lowerv-neck is found in Lycra <strong>to</strong>ps, wrap<strong>to</strong>ps or wrap dresses.V-necks work well <strong>to</strong> create a sense ofelongation from the neck <strong>to</strong> the chest. Av-neck is a great <strong>to</strong>ol <strong>to</strong> create a moreswan-like neck. It will also create aminimising shape around the bust.SCOOP NECKThis is a low round shaped necklinethat looks like a semi-circle. It isflattering <strong>to</strong> all shapes <strong>and</strong> will give an elegantneckline <strong>and</strong> more attention <strong>to</strong> thebustline whether or not there is cleavage.These hard <strong>and</strong> fast rules can be obstructive. Do you really need themor are you just protecting yourself from the unknown? Changing youroutfit <strong>to</strong> something you wouldn’t normally wear can have a bigemotional impact; perhaps it’s this you feel the need <strong>to</strong> avoid.If this means you prefer a dramatic look with more graphic fabrics <strong>and</strong>a more <strong>and</strong>rogynous take on style from time <strong>to</strong> time - great! You havecreated a signature for yourself. I identify with this <strong>to</strong>o. If, however, thismeans you feel uncomfortable in anything feminine like skirts ordresses <strong>and</strong> heels or even dainty <strong>to</strong>ps, florals <strong>and</strong> pretty colours, thenyou are missing out on some fun.You are not an attention seeking floozie by celebrating yourfemininity with some colour <strong>and</strong> sensuality. Try <strong>to</strong> move yourself out ofyour familiar comfort zone incrementally by focussing on a softer look.A skirt with flat strappy s<strong>and</strong>als <strong>and</strong> a t-shirt should be your first step.Give your legs <strong>and</strong> feet a little preparation before you try on a skirt;that way you can’t fall back on excuses about your body not beingsuited <strong>to</strong> skirts. Once you have tried this <strong>and</strong> worn it a few times youwill begin <strong>to</strong> graduate <strong>to</strong> the next item of clothing.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Sweetheart neckM<strong>and</strong>arin neckSWEETHEART NECKThis is usually found in clothing that hasno ‘give’ like cot<strong>to</strong>n, satin or silk becausethe design must hold its shape. Theshoulder will drop vertically then a daintycurved line runs over each breast.This works wonderfully <strong>to</strong> feminise any<strong>to</strong>p that it appears on. Short or full necksbenefit from a sense of elongation.MANDARIN NECKThis is a high collar that dips at thecentre <strong>and</strong> is always found on a garmentthat fastens through the middle. It has avery but<strong>to</strong>ned up almost strict feel <strong>and</strong>often appears as a silk garment.If by that you mean you will avoid certain styles that show <strong>to</strong>o muchflesh, now that you are getting older, along with prioritising clothes thathave a certain quality <strong>to</strong> them <strong>and</strong> look well made, then you have theright approach. If, however, you mean you don’t want <strong>to</strong> wear anythingcolourful or playful <strong>and</strong> especially not anything trend oriented, then youare presupposing that getting older involves becoming invisible. There isnothing so effective as a woman who uses the right amount of acurrent trend <strong>to</strong> invigorate her look.You may have a job that makes trousers very necessary or you maybelieve your legs should never be allowed <strong>to</strong> see the light of day, inwhich case the pic<strong>to</strong>rial skirt guide further down will make a bigdifference. If it’s because you just don’t underst<strong>and</strong> what <strong>to</strong> put withskirts, I suggest that you have got caught in the ‘unsuitable footwear’trap…What I mean by this is that, even if you think for a momentabout not wearing trousers, you get stuck because you don’t knowwhat <strong>to</strong> put on your feet – since all your shoes work for trousers.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Slash neckPolo neckSLASH NECKThis is a neckline that appears <strong>to</strong> gostraight across the body fromshoulder <strong>to</strong> shoulder. It will widen theshoulder area <strong>and</strong> in some cases canshorten the appearance of the neck.Especially good for smallsloping shoulders.Avoid if you have large orsquare shoulders.POLO NECKThis is nearly always found in knitwear asa fine gauge piece of knitting.These comments <strong>and</strong> many others mean that you just opt <strong>to</strong> cover thebody up in layers of fabric <strong>and</strong> hope no one will see the shape you areunderneath. It may be that you have spent a long time focussing on thething you least like about your body <strong>and</strong> forgetting <strong>to</strong> focus instead onthe things you do like about your body.Make a list now of all your good points <strong>and</strong> let these be the thingsyou draw attention <strong>to</strong>, while you use the effective <strong>to</strong>ols outlined in thisbook <strong>to</strong> minimise or camouflage the things you don’t like.Avoid if you have a short neck.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Pierre Cardin style’ collarCollar PIERRE CARDINSTYLE’ COLLARThis is a folded <strong>and</strong> stiff collar that sitsaround the collarbone. It has theappearance of making the neck seemelegantly slender because it is so muchwider. It also creates width at theshoulder area.COLLARThere is a huge variety of collars <strong>to</strong>choose from, the most common beingthe straight collar that encloses theneck when it is done up. Other shapesincluded the rounded collar <strong>and</strong> thePeter Pan collar.Is this because you have lost confidence in your ability <strong>to</strong> pull off amore structured look or is it <strong>to</strong> hide the fact that you just don’t knowwhat <strong>to</strong> choose <strong>to</strong> flatter your shape? Casual wear, great though it isfor downtime, is usually shapeless <strong>and</strong> non descript; is this how yousee yourself? This book will show you how <strong>to</strong> choose clothes that havedrama, femininity <strong>and</strong> structure <strong>and</strong> put them <strong>to</strong>gether!Some women put a lot of effort in<strong>to</strong> their appearance but it stilldoesn’t pay off because they haven’t unders<strong>to</strong>od the basics. But youwon’t have that problem. The most important thing about your stylechoices from now on is that they will look effortless, so let’s begin.The small collar will always make thebust area underneath it appear larger.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Shirt collarPlunge necklineTeardrop neckline Cowl neckline Large polo neckSHIRT COLLARThis is worn undone <strong>to</strong> create a soft<strong>and</strong> blurred v-neckline. And there isn’ta woman in the l<strong>and</strong> who will not lookgood in a fi tted shirt, which is sexilyundone (how much depends on thesituation <strong>and</strong> you).Search for a good fi t so that itcan become a staple in your wardrobe.PLUNGE NECKLINEThis neckline will have varying degrees ofplunge from cleavage <strong>to</strong> ribcage.Obviously a good bra or great <strong>to</strong>ne iscrucial. The key is all in the depth of the<strong>to</strong>ne; never show so much breast thatit becomes an eyeful. A plunge necklinerequires an excellent bra but can also becarried off by wearinganotherlayer underneath.TEARDROP NECKLINEThis style is effectively like a highboat neck but has an extra teardropshape cut out that may or may notshow cleavage.Often found in fi tted evening <strong>to</strong>ps orlooser jersey style <strong>to</strong>ps. This is a great<strong>to</strong>p for all heights <strong>and</strong> shapes. Avoid ifyou have low slung breasts.COWL NECKLINEThis is scoop neckline with an extra layerof fabric that hangs loosely over the bust<strong>to</strong> add volume. It will bulk up the bustarea <strong>and</strong> draw the eye <strong>to</strong> it.LARGE POLO NECKThis neckline always appears on a chunkypiece of knitwear <strong>and</strong> can st<strong>and</strong> up fairlystiff around the neck in a wide circle.The volume of fabric around the neckwill work <strong>to</strong> make the neck seemsmaller or daintier <strong>and</strong> because it isloose <strong>and</strong> low the neck itself will alwayslook graceful.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Further on in the book we will discuss your body shape in more detail<strong>and</strong> I have many tricks for flattering your individual silhouette, as youwill see, but let me outline a few key things that will have influencedyour style up <strong>to</strong> this point.You don’t enjoy shopping because you’re not confident about thechoices you make. Consequently your style is undefined.You like the look of the garment on the hanger but when it doesn’t fitright you get disheartened.You like colour <strong>and</strong> pattern but always end up in dark colours becauseit’s just easier.Fashion confuses you. It might look all right on models but you can’twork it in <strong>to</strong> your wardrobe.I’ve worked with a lot of women who say they don’t underst<strong>and</strong> whythey can’t feel good about the clothing choices they make <strong>and</strong> oftenblame their bodies for being at fault. As you work your way throughthis book you will learn how <strong>to</strong> pick clothes confidently, allowingyou <strong>to</strong> relax <strong>and</strong> enjoy the way you look. But first let me empower youimmediately with some key points<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


As you work your way through this book you will learn how <strong>to</strong> pickclothes confidently but first let me empower you immediately withsome key points.Make do with clothes that don’t fit very well.Wear clothes that are shapeless <strong>and</strong> non-descript <strong>and</strong> donothing for your individual shape.Keep a wardrobe packed full <strong>to</strong> the gills of clothes that don’twork for you.Buy clothes without really underst<strong>and</strong>ing what they will or won’tdo for your figure.Rely on dark colours or bl<strong>and</strong> non-descript <strong>to</strong>nes.Rely upon the limited collections that shops carry.Prioritise fit. Your girlfriends who are tall, petite or fuller have alwaysbeen more aware of the need for clothes <strong>to</strong> fit. As a <strong>st<strong>and</strong>ard</strong> shapeyou have not placed that much importance on fit before – after all youdon’t have <strong>to</strong> seek out specialist sizes in the way they do. <strong>How</strong>ever, youdo need <strong>to</strong> be more discerning from here in. <strong>Good</strong> fit signifies confidence<strong>and</strong> the regard you have for yourself.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Sort your wardrobe out now – a cluttered messy wardrobe is yourworst enemy if you want <strong>to</strong> dress with style <strong>and</strong> confidence. Iguarantee that you are giving closet space <strong>to</strong> clothes you haven’t wornfor ages <strong>and</strong> will never wear again. See my easy <strong>to</strong> work action plan onhow <strong>to</strong> identify the closet clutter from the wardrobe essentials furtheron.Choose clothes that work with your body <strong>to</strong> flatter your silhouette– this means making confident choices about shaped <strong>and</strong> structuredclothes instead of making do with shapeless nondescript items. As youwork through the book, you will see all the illustrations of clothes that Irecommend for your individual body shape. The neckline or width oflapel you choose, the skirt or jacket shape, can all help you balanceyour body. Once you are familiar with these shapes <strong>and</strong> features,selecting the right clothes will be a piece of cake.Add colour <strong>to</strong> your wardrobe. If it feels like a bold <strong>and</strong> attentionseeking thing <strong>to</strong> do then start by adding a flash of colour as part ofyour accessories; let’s say a belt or a bag before you move <strong>to</strong> a wholegarment. Print is also instantly feminising <strong>and</strong> is a way of adding life <strong>and</strong>excitement <strong>to</strong> your wardrobe. It doesn’t have <strong>to</strong> be bright either; withprint you get the opportunity <strong>to</strong> stay in your comfort zone with darkercolours before you graduate on <strong>to</strong> something more adventurous. Ofcourse the weight of the print <strong>and</strong> where you place it is important <strong>and</strong>that is something I discuss later.Use our specially compiled clothing direc<strong>to</strong>ries <strong>to</strong> track items you needfor any specialist fits.These basics are crucial <strong>to</strong> keep in mind, apply them <strong>and</strong> all the otherbody shape tips you are about <strong>to</strong> receive <strong>to</strong> the illustrations of clothesI show you. Lets move on <strong>to</strong> ‘Step one.’<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Low v-neckLow wrap no sleevesLOW V-NECKThis style of <strong>to</strong>p with sleeves covers allthe shoulder area <strong>and</strong> with a deepv <strong>to</strong> reveal a brightly coloured vest <strong>to</strong>punderneath creates an elegant neckline.The small triangle shape suggestsa small bosom.<strong>Good</strong> for large or square shoulders. Maingarment in a dark or neutral colour whilesmaller v-insert must be colourful.LOW WRAP NO SLEEVESThis shape with wide neckline <strong>and</strong>sleeves placed wide on the shoulderswidens the area around the neckline <strong>and</strong>bust <strong>and</strong> reduces the amount ofshoulder on show.<strong>Good</strong> for large or square shoulders.A fashionable approach is adopted by someone who wants <strong>to</strong> be seen<strong>to</strong> be part of an invisible club called ‘Hopelessly up <strong>to</strong> date.’ They willtalk in riddles about what is ‘in’ <strong>and</strong> ‘out,’ they see their clothes as ‘musthave’ items <strong>and</strong> are always looking ahead <strong>to</strong> what is coming next. Theycan judge other women as harshly as they judge themselves for nothaving the latest bag <strong>and</strong> are often on waiting lists for various designeritems. Confidence is something that is achieved once they have all the‘right’ clothes on but next season everything is changed or thrown out,once they see the newest collections.A stylish approach is taken by someone who has no need <strong>to</strong> be par<strong>to</strong>f an exclusive club. They appreciate clothes as fine items ofadornment that will enhance their day. They do not judge others <strong>and</strong>will willingly compliment another woman on her dress sense. Theyknow what will suit them <strong>and</strong> don’t need <strong>to</strong> be dictated <strong>to</strong> by thefashion world, although will just as happily clap h<strong>and</strong>s with delight asthe new styles hit the shops.Confidence is something they already have, by enjoying who they are<strong>and</strong> what they have done with their lives. In their wardrobes will be aselection of clothes that fit well <strong>and</strong> have s<strong>to</strong>od the test of time, as wellas some high fashion items because they are fun <strong>to</strong> wear.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Asymmetric shoulder Wide strap vest <strong>to</strong>pHigh neck vestHalter neck Spaghetti strapsSleveless round neckASYMMETRICSHOULDERThis comes in <strong>and</strong> out of fashion <strong>and</strong>usually appears on evening style garments.It suits all shoulder shapes <strong>and</strong> is a dramatic<strong>and</strong> chic statement for gowns <strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong>ps alike.Especially good for large or squareshoulders.HALTER-NECKAny halter-neck reveals a large amount ofshoulder since it wraps close round theneck. It is featured on summer <strong>to</strong>ps as wellas more formal evening <strong>to</strong>ps, dresses <strong>and</strong>gowns.Great for small or sloping shoulders as it willcreate the effect of larger shoulders.Avoid if you have large or squareshoulders.VEST TOP WITH WIDESTRAPS AND LOW OVALNECKLINEThe neck area is widened with this design<strong>and</strong> the wide straps cover a larger area ofshoulder. This is why this design is good forlarger bodies in general.Great if you have large or squareshoulders.SPAGHETTI STRAPSThese straps are just as they sound - thin,str<strong>and</strong>-like straps. They are often used ondainty dresses <strong>and</strong> are more fordecoration than anything. A strapless bra isthe only choice here as this dainty look isruined with visible bra straps. You’d think thatwould be obvious but I’ve seen it so manytimes.Great if you have small or sloping shoulders.Avoid if you have large or squareshoulders.VEST TOP WITHNARROW STRAPS & HIGHERNECKLINEThe neck area is made smaller <strong>and</strong> theshoulder area is increased because thestraps are pushed further <strong>to</strong>wards the neck.This sporty style will make the body seemlarger <strong>and</strong> more muscular.ROUND NECKAND SLEEVELESSThis could also be a v-neckline butthe important part of the design is thecoverage from the neck <strong>to</strong> the shoulder.The wider this is, the less shoulder there ison show.<strong>Good</strong> for large or square shoulders.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Wide scoopOff the shoulderWaterfall collarGypsyWIDE SCOOPThis neckline can work very well <strong>to</strong>create a subtle width across the shoulderarea. If you find your bra straps are onshow then wear a contrasting colouredvest underneath <strong>to</strong> conceal the straps<strong>and</strong> create a layered look.Avoid if you have wide shoulders.OFF THE SHOULDERThis neckline is usually seen on gowns<strong>and</strong> cocktail dresses <strong>and</strong> works very wellbecause of the gentle v-shape <strong>to</strong> createa flattering effect for <strong>curvy</strong> upper bodies<strong>and</strong> <strong>st<strong>and</strong>ard</strong> shapes.<strong>How</strong>ever, it still creates a horizontal lineacross the shoulder area.Avoid if you have large or squareshoulders.WATERFALL COLLARThis is an elegant neckline or collar stylethat creates a vertical line through thebody <strong>to</strong> create a streamlined <strong>and</strong>elongating effect. It is usually seen informalwear. A generously proportionedruffle will feminise large or squareshoulders.THE GYPSYWhen soft ruffles are popular, theGypsy off-the-shoulder <strong>to</strong>p will appear.It is a great garment for feminising theshoulders <strong>and</strong> for this reason is the bestchoice if you are broad shouldered butlike the idea of wearing styles that havean obvioushorizontal feature.<strong>Good</strong> for large or square shoulders.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Back view cross over feature Back view cowlBack view of sports <strong>to</strong>p or t-barBACK VIEWCROSSOVER FEATUREOften appears on special occasiondresses. The effect of these thin strapscriss-crossing across the back is <strong>to</strong> makeshoulders appear larger <strong>and</strong> thereforethe waist smaller.Great for small or sloping shoulders.Avoid if you have large or squareshoulders.BACK VIEW COWLThe straps are placed wide apart <strong>and</strong> agentle draping cowl feminises <strong>and</strong> softensthe back; but depending on the designcan also make your back appear wider.Great for small or sloping shoulders.BACK VIEW OF SPORTSTOP OR T-BARThe straps are designed <strong>to</strong> make theshoulders appears larger <strong>and</strong> thereforemore sporty. It’s a great shape <strong>to</strong> drawattention <strong>to</strong> shoulders <strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong> make theupper <strong>to</strong>rso seem more developed.Great for small or sloping shoulders.Avoid if you have large or squareshoulders.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Many women have no sense of what they would like their style <strong>to</strong> bewhen I ask this question. Moreover, they have no underst<strong>and</strong>ing of thestyle they currently inhabit. Just jot down a h<strong>and</strong>ful of words thatrepresent you now – be as honest as you can bear. My guess is thatamongst your descriptions will include the words ‘practical,’ ‘thrifty,’‘comfortable,’ maybe even ‘bored,’ ‘scruffy’ <strong>and</strong> ‘bl<strong>and</strong>.’Style should begin <strong>and</strong> end with who you are <strong>and</strong> what you areabout. Whether we like it or not people read our clothing, accessory<strong>and</strong> hair <strong>and</strong> make-up choices. Despite not uttering a single wordabout ourselves <strong>to</strong> others, we will have communicated volumes abou<strong>to</strong>urselves through our clothes.One woman I worked with had a fondness for drab lifeless colours,shapeless garments, no make-up on her face <strong>and</strong> unloved hair. She wasamazed when I said I could see immediately that she had fallen out oflove with herself. To her these clothes were just what she had alwaysput on in the morning <strong>and</strong> she liked not having <strong>to</strong> think about them.I read her image as someone who didn’t want <strong>to</strong> think about herself,who was uninterested in the woman she saw in the mirror.Let’s start with the simple basics; like whether your clothes appear<strong>to</strong> be cared for. Do they give off a look of quality <strong>and</strong> do they fit? Ona deeper level ask yourself do your clothing choices flatter your body?Do they cleverly enhance your strengths <strong>and</strong> play downyour weaknesses.Yes, others will effortlessly make assumptions about your personality byreading your choices on colour, design <strong>and</strong> print as well as all the above(this includes potential friends, bosses, work colleagues <strong>and</strong> socialacquaintances) – so will they be the right assumptions?A stylish woman will always communicate a regard for herself <strong>and</strong> apleasure in being. Size <strong>and</strong> age need have no bearing on how youpresent yourself - few things are more self-affirming than the act ofdressing well (this is not <strong>to</strong> be confused with spending well). Someonewho dresses well will not get caught in the trap of over spending ormaking expensive mistakes, even impulse purchasing. Once you begin<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


<strong>to</strong> use the <strong>to</strong>ols I will lay out in this book you <strong>to</strong>o will communicateradiance <strong>and</strong> a confidence that is very lovely <strong>to</strong> be around. Yourwardrobe will soon be full of thoughtfully chosen clothes that willcreate the best possible statement about you!1 Take a piece of card or paper the width of your wardrobe door(there is method here so read on) <strong>and</strong> fill it with aspirational images.Let’s start with the women you admire style-wise.2 Then add shapes, colours <strong>and</strong> prints you like – they may be subtle orbold <strong>and</strong> modern or nostalgic. Just cut several swatches from your oldmagazines <strong>and</strong> arrange them attractively in the page. Don’t let faddytrends influence you here; the object of this exercise is <strong>to</strong> create yourown personal mood board.3 Now add the words that you would like <strong>to</strong> represent you. Thesecould be feelings or descriptions like ‘glamorous,’ ‘colourful,’‘co-ordinated,’ ‘sassy,’ ‘smart’ even ‘sultry,’ ‘sophisticated,’ ‘vampish,’ or just‘fun,’ ‘happy,’ ‘fresh-faced,’ ‘natural.’ Stay realistic.Type these words on yourcomputer <strong>and</strong> enlarge them so that they have a weight. Then cut out instrips <strong>and</strong> fix <strong>to</strong> the card. Don’t move so far away from what iscurrently your style now, that your aspirational image becomes a merefantasy <strong>and</strong> completely unachievable.4 Now fix this paper <strong>to</strong> the inside of your wardrobe door <strong>and</strong>whenever you open your wardrobe you will be reminded of your ownpersonal style signature.By doing this you can begin <strong>to</strong> carry out your own wishes. After all,all stylists are surrounded by clothes, models <strong>and</strong> designers. The reasonthey seem <strong>to</strong> make such effortless choices is because they are thinkingabout image <strong>and</strong> inspiration for a large part of their day.They get <strong>to</strong> see clothes in action on the catwalk, they experimentwith clothes on shoots <strong>and</strong> they spend longer than most shopping foraccessories or in the offices of PR’s choosing clothes from the shootthey will work on next. I’m not advocating that you spend any longerthan necessary on your image but give yourself an opportunity <strong>to</strong> beinspired when you open the wardrobe door in the morning!<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Curved straplessPeriod style straplessSt<strong>and</strong>ard strapless Scalloped strapless Extra b<strong>and</strong> around the bustSTRAPLESS BODICESTHESE OFTEN APPEAR ON SPECIALOCCASIONWEAR AND GOWNS ASWELL AS CORSET STYLE TOPS INTHEIR OWN RIGHT. THEY AREPERFECT FOR LARGE SHOULDERSAND CURVY ARMS AS WELL ASSTANDARD AND PETITE SHAPES.WHEN PROPERLY BONED ARESENSATIONAL FOR CURVYVOLUPTUOUS BUSTS. THERE WILLBE MANY VARIATIONS BUT THESEFIVE DESIGNS REPRESENT MOSTOF THE DESIGNS YOU WILLCOME ACROSSCURVED STRAPLESSA design like this creates a larger area atthe bust <strong>and</strong> because it does not followa horizontal line <strong>to</strong> mirror the shoulderline will not exaggerate square shoulders.Choose a style like this if you have asmall bust <strong>and</strong> square shoulders. Thecurved line will create a visual distractionfrom the shoulders that are angular, bony<strong>and</strong> square. Avoid if you have small orsloping shoulders.PERIOD STYLE STRAPLESSThis design has a gothic feel <strong>to</strong> it <strong>and</strong>often appears in vampish colours eitheras cocktail gowns or corset <strong>to</strong>ps.This shape will minimise the bust area.STANDARD STRAPLESSThis is a universally flattering shape withvertical seaming through the front of thebody. The vertical seeming will alwaysmake the waist appear more streamlined.Great for <strong>st<strong>and</strong>ard</strong> <strong>and</strong> narrow or slopedshoulders - the horizontal line willenhance the same line made by theshoulders.SCALLOPED STRAPLESSThis design suggests softness <strong>and</strong>femininity. The scallop over the bust willcreate a minimising effect <strong>and</strong> will alsosoften the shoulders.Perfect for large or square shoulders.EXTRA BANDACROSS THE BUSTThis design adds volume at the bust aswell as width, making the waist looksmaller by comparison.This is one of the best ways <strong>to</strong> createmore width across the bust, making thebody seem wider <strong>and</strong>/or larger.Many bodices will have beading,sequins or other embellishment atthis point. This also does the job ofcreating volume.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


This illustration shows how long lean vertical lines will always elongateyour body especially when clothes are all in the same colour groupingor <strong>to</strong>ne.See how the closed <strong>to</strong>e footwear elongates the leg. For extralengthening effect, ensure your shoes are the same colour as yourtrousers. Conversely, if you wear a contrasting coloured pair of shoesyou will shorten long legs.This drawing is an exaggerated look <strong>to</strong> show how the featureworks illustrating…• Shape of garments that make vertical lines in themselves• Long length garments• Seaming• Panels of colour• Zips, fastenings• Garment layering - <strong>to</strong> reveal panels of colour through <strong>to</strong>rso areaSee how the eye travels up <strong>and</strong> down the body because there is nohorizontal feature <strong>to</strong> distract it.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Batwing sleevePuffed sleeveSLEEVESA SLEEVE ALL ON ITS OWN CANDO A GREAT DEAL FOR A FULL ARM,BUT FOR ANY SHAPED ARM, THESLEEVE YOU CHOOSE CANMAKE A DIFFERENCE TO HOWYOUR ARM APPEARS.BATWING SLEEVEThis style usually appears in soft jerseyfabrics or fine knitwear <strong>and</strong> is aninteresting <strong>and</strong> forgiving shape.It will disguise the shape of any arm butcan foreshorten a body.PUFFED SLEEVEThis is a great device for creating width<strong>and</strong> volume around the shoulder area.When worn in a soft jersey fabric it canwork well for <strong>curvy</strong> arms byappearing larger in size than thepiece of arm on show <strong>and</strong> thereforemaking the arm look smaller.Avoid if you have large orsquare shoulders.The steps I’m outlining here are important. But so is thinking ofyourself as unique <strong>and</strong> therefore special. If you like a certain colouror want <strong>to</strong> dress in a certain way then go ahead <strong>and</strong> enjoy it. I don’tsubscribe <strong>to</strong> the idea that everyone should look the same. In fact, Ifeel strongly that a stylish approach allows for individuality, whereas amerely fashionable approach can often make everyone look as thoughthey are wearing a uniform.It is important that you feel you have a signature that out-lives any ofthe trends – these after all last a very short space of time. Yoursignature will be the thing that others can describe you by. It willinfluence the types of clothes you buy. After all we can lean that acertain print or colour is ‘on trend’ but it is how we incorporate it in<strong>to</strong>our wardrobes that counts.Start <strong>to</strong> take ownership of your look; don’t h<strong>and</strong> it <strong>to</strong> the fashionindustry <strong>to</strong> decide how you should appear. Here are two examples ofwhat I mean:She usually has long hair, maybe it’s plaited. She loves turquoise oramber jewellery <strong>and</strong> often has lots of silver bangles or rings. Herclothes are loose <strong>and</strong> feminine in earthy colours. She loves leather <strong>and</strong>crisp white blouses.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Capped sleeve Angel sleeveCAPPED SLEEVEThis design concentrates on the shoulder<strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong>p area of the arm. It can accentuatethe size of this area <strong>and</strong> is a popular choicefor those who enjoy the way their armlooks more athletic <strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong>ned when theywear it. Avoid if you have soft, round orlarge arms <strong>and</strong> shoulders.ANGEL SLEEVEThis is a great sleeve for fuller softer arms.It will always work <strong>to</strong> make the arm looksmaller <strong>and</strong> more feminine.The slash in the sleeve will blur the line <strong>and</strong>create a minimising effect on the arm. It willalways work <strong>to</strong> make the arm look smaller<strong>and</strong> more feminine.Fitted T-shirtThis a style that has tailoring at its heart. She will wear clothes thathave a certain strictness <strong>to</strong> them as well as accentuating her shape. Herhair will be groomed, her accessories co-ordinated. Colours will begraphic – reds, greys, black.Both these women have retained their own unique style but both willbuy clothes <strong>to</strong> accentuate <strong>and</strong> support their look each season,choosing styles <strong>and</strong> cuts that are relevant <strong>to</strong> them. Have you everthought about what your look might be? To find out more moveforward <strong>to</strong> Action Plan Number 1 ‘Style Detective.’FITTED T-SHIRTA hard horizontal line across the armwhere it begins <strong>to</strong> widen is a way of lookingmuscular. The t-shirt was invented afterall by the US Army as an undergarment.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


3/4 Length or cropped sleeves Bell shaped sleeve Bell-bot<strong>to</strong>m sleeve3/4 LENGTH ORCROPPED SLEEVESThis length sleeve works perfectly <strong>to</strong> makelimbs look longer <strong>and</strong>, whendesigned with a wide flare, will be one ofthe most flattering shapes for <strong>curvy</strong> arms<strong>and</strong> wrists.BELL SHAPED SLEEVEA sleeve like this will come in <strong>and</strong> out offashion <strong>and</strong> is most often seen on formalor special occasionwear blouses. It workswell <strong>to</strong> widen the bot<strong>to</strong>m part of the arm<strong>and</strong> will give balance <strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>p part.BELL-BOTTOM SLEEVEA long <strong>and</strong> wide sleeve will work <strong>to</strong>balance the <strong>to</strong>p of the arm.A long wide sleeve can foreshortenthe arm.<strong>How</strong>ever, the benefits of balancing the <strong>to</strong>ppart of the arm by creating more volumeat the wrist <strong>and</strong> forearm are also important.As a general rule a curvier arm needsa wider flare at the bot<strong>to</strong>m.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Raglan Sleeve Extended cuff featureOpen slash sleeveRAGLAN SLEEVEThis design is more <strong>to</strong> do with the waythat the sleeve fits in<strong>to</strong> the shoulder areabecause it is not a conventional sleevecasing. It is often used in sporting clothingbecause it allows for more give acrossthe back. It also enhances the shoulderarea, especially if it appears as a two-<strong>to</strong>nedesign (where the sleeve is a contrastingcolour from the body).This shape will always bulk up theshoulder area.Avoid if you have large or squareshoulders.EXTENDED CUFF FEATUREA dressy shirt, blouse or <strong>to</strong>p can use thisfeature <strong>and</strong> it is a great one <strong>to</strong> reducethe appearance of a long slender arm,especially if there is some gathering in<strong>to</strong>the cuff that creates width around theforearm.OPEN SLASH SLEEVEThis sleeve is slashed from the shoulder<strong>to</strong> the wrist <strong>and</strong> held by the wristb<strong>and</strong>but there are other designs <strong>to</strong>o like aslash just at the <strong>to</strong>p of the arm or severalslashes that are caught at various pointsalong the way.This is a perfect sleeve for concealing theshape of the arm, leaving a slither of skinon show <strong>and</strong> a long vertical line.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


The fact that there never seems <strong>to</strong> be enough space just serves <strong>to</strong> encourageus <strong>to</strong> treat our clothes badly. In any wardrobe (<strong>and</strong> I’ve overhauleda few in my time), I can guarantee I will find garments that arebadly hung or squashed in<strong>to</strong> tight spaces. There will be hangers pokingthrough knitwear; clothes on the floor of the wardrobe or returned<strong>to</strong> the rail dirty. And I always find plenty of clothes that aren’t even theright size. Most women only wear about a third of their wardrobe, therest is closet clutter.Closet clutter <strong>and</strong> clothes that are past it - read that as worn out orout of date - are no good <strong>to</strong> you. A good stylist knows what she hason her rails at any time <strong>and</strong> knows what is available <strong>to</strong> work with. Spota stylish woman in the street <strong>and</strong> you can be sure that she willhave an organised wardrobe at her disposal. This is very easily achievedwhen you adopt the mindset of a stylist <strong>and</strong> think of clothes as <strong>to</strong>ols.A carpenter will keep a <strong>to</strong>olbox tidy so that she can find the <strong>to</strong>ol sheneeds <strong>to</strong> carry out the job well; why don’t you take that approach <strong>to</strong>your clothes from now on?If you have any clothes remaining that are well cut <strong>and</strong> fit you beautifully,perhaps they spent some money on them <strong>and</strong> they have classicappeal BUT don’t fit in with your current looks then save them as‘personal vintage.’ Personal vintage will allow you <strong>to</strong> bring these clothesback out in a few years when the catwalks revisit these looks.I have always done this…when trouser shapes change significantly fromskinny <strong>to</strong> flare <strong>and</strong> back again, I can recycle my own designer styles <strong>and</strong>not have <strong>to</strong> re purchase something I already had once.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


1 Start by splitting your wardrobe in<strong>to</strong> two seasons <strong>and</strong> remove all thegarments that are seasonally unsuitable. There is after all no pointfighting your way through a sea of sweaters you won’t wear for atleast three months. Or trying <strong>to</strong> extricate your strappy s<strong>and</strong>als from apile of winter boots. Fold <strong>and</strong> pack these items away clean in s<strong>to</strong>rage(moths are attracted <strong>to</strong> food stains or perspiration, in fact this is a feastfor them).2 Now put the s<strong>to</strong>red clothes <strong>and</strong> accessories in the loft, under thebed or just generally out of the way – not only will it keep them inbetter condition <strong>and</strong> ready for the correct season – but you’ll have abetter idea when you do unpack them of whether you want <strong>to</strong> keepthem all.3 Now let’s look at what you have left in your wardrobe. Put <strong>to</strong> oneside the items that you don’t wear for one reason or another <strong>and</strong> nowlet’s arrange on the rail the remaining garments.4 Take all metal <strong>and</strong> plastic hangers out of the equation <strong>and</strong> replacewith wooden ones. These will keep your clothes in better shape.5 Now group all your trousers <strong>to</strong>gether <strong>and</strong> hang; then group skirts<strong>and</strong> hang; now jackets <strong>and</strong> hang. Notice how many combinations youcan get from mixing the <strong>to</strong>p halves with both sets of bot<strong>to</strong>m halves.6 Now add blouses on hangers <strong>and</strong> then on <strong>to</strong> the shelf place foldedLycra <strong>to</strong>ps <strong>and</strong> knitwear. Split these last two groups in<strong>to</strong> light <strong>and</strong> darkif you can.7 Finally s<strong>to</strong>re dresses on wooden hangers <strong>and</strong> place next<strong>to</strong> the blouses.8 Now place all seasonal shoes at the bot<strong>to</strong>m of your wardrobe alongwith a box for your belts, scarves, corsages <strong>and</strong> other accessories. Bagscan sit on <strong>to</strong>p of the box or in a shelf space if you have one.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


This is your working wardrobe. See how easy it is <strong>to</strong> create a varietyof looks with all the items that are in front of you, partly because youcan see what you have immediately <strong>and</strong> partly because the garmentsthemselves will now give you ideas <strong>and</strong> inspiration as they suggestcombinations.Let’s now look at the clothes on your bed that you don’t wear. Behonest with yourself here <strong>and</strong> voice out loud why you don’t wearthem. Hearing yourself say things like ‘I’m waiting <strong>to</strong> shrink back in<strong>to</strong> it.’Or ‘I keep thinking that one day it will look right on me.’ Or mosttypically ‘It was a bargain <strong>and</strong> I’ll find a use for it somehow,’ will helpyou <strong>to</strong> let go of them. Often women keep a variety of sizes in theirwardrobe in case they either lose or gain weight. In my experience, it’simportant <strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>re the clothes that aren’t your current size so that youare styling with only the clothes that you know will fit you. Give awaythe rest.If you have anything left from this pile that you do want <strong>to</strong> keep, putit in your closet <strong>and</strong> review next season. This practice should be keptup twice a year <strong>and</strong>, as you buy new clothes, you can make space inyour wardrobe for them by removing old worn out items.To create a new mindset for you, choose a mantra – my personalone is ‘every day is a best underwear day’ – that communicates <strong>to</strong> methe joy of feeling my best all the time rather than saving my efforts forsome special (fantasy) day. Start using your clothes <strong>to</strong> support you inyour quest <strong>to</strong> look <strong>and</strong> feel great everyday. If we think about thecarpenter <strong>and</strong> her <strong>to</strong>olbox for just a moment, we realise thatshe strives <strong>to</strong> turn in good work everyday using the correct <strong>to</strong>ols….so should you!<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Classic T-shirt styleTOPSTOPS ARE AS MUCH A TASTE ANDSTYLE THING AS THEY ARE A FITISSUE AND, WITH FASHIONCHANGING THE CUTS EVERYSEASON, THERE ARE ALWAYS NEWSHAPES TO TRY. HERE IS AGROUPING OF THE CLASSICSHAPES WHICH, WHEN PUTTOGETHER WITH THEINFORMATION YOU ALREADY HAVEON NECK LINE, SHOULDER ANDSLEEVE DETAIL WILL CREATE ABODY SHAPE REFERENCEWHATEVER THE STYLES. LENGTH ISALSO IMPORTANT TO CONSIDERHERE AND THIS WILL BE FLAGGEDUP WHERE RELEVANT.CLASSIC T-SHIRT STYLEThis shape usually has a little Lycra <strong>to</strong>help it stretch or it is a loose weavecot<strong>to</strong>n so we can stretch it over ourheads. It has become a utilitygarment of modern day times <strong>and</strong>is useful for casual wear.You are <strong>st<strong>and</strong>ard</strong> height <strong>and</strong> curvaceous <strong>and</strong> you are all in proportion.That means you have even body symmetry <strong>and</strong> that is excellent news.What you don't have <strong>to</strong> do then is work extra hard <strong>to</strong> even up your<strong>to</strong>p half with your bot<strong>to</strong>m half or visa versa. With such a gorgeousshape, there isn't so much work for you <strong>to</strong> achieve body symmetry. Butperhaps you find certain garments don’t fit or sometimes you feel allbosom <strong>and</strong> hips; maybe you need a few tips <strong>to</strong> create an extraelegance that comes with the illusion of height. Whatever your interestsI want you <strong>to</strong> enjoy your beautiful healthy body from this day on<strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong> show off your curves <strong>to</strong> their very best; you can create a greatsilhouette <strong>and</strong> a figure that turns heads by defining your shape in anelegant <strong>and</strong> flattering way.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


CLASSIC VESTThe vest has just that bit more shape <strong>to</strong>it <strong>and</strong> so is a more flattering garment forsummer. It is also a very useful garment<strong>to</strong> wear under another <strong>to</strong>p like acamisole or a wide scoop <strong>to</strong> give brastraps coverage <strong>and</strong> a contrastingcolour for a layered look.THE KIMONO TOPThis casual style <strong>to</strong>p has large squaresleeves <strong>and</strong> can be loosely fitted <strong>to</strong> thebody under the bust <strong>and</strong> around thewaist. The extra volume around the armswill minimise the bust while the fabric atthe tummy will cover roundness. A <strong>to</strong>plike this will usually have bold print <strong>and</strong>its general width can create aforeshortening effect.Classic vestThe Kimono <strong>to</strong>pYou will consistently find that just a few actually give you the fit youneed <strong>and</strong> that one retailer’s size 12 is another’s size 14. That is becausethere isn’t <strong>st<strong>and</strong>ard</strong>ised sizing. So stick with a label or shop that fits youbest because fit is everything. The cheapest of garments can looksensational if it fits the body beautifully <strong>and</strong> the most expensive outfitwill only create a negative impact if it is badly fitted.It’s possible that you have got used <strong>to</strong> dressing in a way that does notaccentuate your body. Curvy women receive more attention thanthey would like <strong>and</strong> so subconsciously feel uncomfortable about theirshape – if this is you, the clothing choices that you make from now onwill showcase your body so beautifully that you will never need <strong>to</strong> feelinsecure again. I want you <strong>to</strong> prioritise styles that work for you so takethese ideas with you when you next go shopping.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Blouson dropped waistedCamisoleBLOUSONDROPPED WAISTEDThis <strong>to</strong>p can have any type of neckline,what’s important here is the softgathered fabric around the tummy area<strong>and</strong> the low waisted b<strong>and</strong>. This can gentlymask the shape of your whole upper<strong>to</strong>rso <strong>and</strong> so blurs the line betweenbust <strong>and</strong> tummy.CAMISOLEThis is a <strong>to</strong>p that normally appears inflimsy or lightweight fabrics. It gives littleor no shape <strong>to</strong> curves but is good forslender frames. Worn either braless orwith a good strapless bra it can lookvery demure <strong>and</strong> was a key look withjeans not so long ago.Avoid if you have large orsquare shoulders.• Do look for clothes that offer a waist therefore accentuating bosom<strong>and</strong> hips <strong>and</strong> making the most of your curves. An absolute must for youis the wrap dress because it is adjustable <strong>and</strong> allows for you <strong>to</strong> fit it <strong>to</strong>your body. Wrap <strong>to</strong>ps are also fantastic for the same reason (wear aLycra vest underneath for extra security).• Many <strong>curvy</strong> women still wish they had a fuller bosom. If this is you,then look for <strong>to</strong>ps that create extra volume <strong>and</strong> therefore enhancethe <strong>to</strong>p part of your body. Choose anything with frills, ruching or loosefabric gathers at the front. What you are doing is creating an illusion offullness.• Choose v-necks that lengthen necks <strong>and</strong> create a flattering line forthe bosom; this will minimise your bust if you feel it is <strong>to</strong>o full.• Wear a correctly fitted smooth <strong>and</strong> seamless bra, making sure thatstraps do not cut in<strong>to</strong> flesh creating lumps <strong>and</strong> bumps. It is crucial thatyou take time <strong>to</strong> get the correct fit – bosoms that point down orspread outwards are very ageing. It is especially crucial for petite shapes<strong>to</strong> lift breasts; this will immediately give you an extra illusion of height.Celebrate your beautiful shape with a balconet bra – these give greatshape <strong>and</strong> support. In our direc<strong>to</strong>ry you will find companies that offerlarger cup sized bras.• Apply the same thought <strong>to</strong> briefs. A VPL or any other line will makeyour <strong>curvy</strong> bot<strong>to</strong>m seem as though it is asking for more attention. Myfavourite lingerie item is the g-string for that very reason. You can getgreat performance underwear from places like Marks <strong>and</strong> Spencer withcontrol <strong>and</strong> smoothing panels<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Classic tankCamisole with peplumCLASSIC TANKThe classic tank style is a greatsolution if you have large or squareshoulders <strong>and</strong> will minimise this areavery effectively. Especially good forsquare or athletic shoulders.CAMISOLE WITH PEPLUMAll of the above counts here but theimportant thing about this <strong>to</strong>p is itsextended length. Any <strong>to</strong>p with a peplumor loose layer like this is perfect forcovering round tummies.• Wear large chunky knits that wrap your body seductively. Longercardis that have a belt feature will enable you <strong>to</strong> draw the garmentclose <strong>to</strong> your body, accentuating your waist <strong>and</strong> creating definition.• If you want <strong>to</strong> play down full shoulders <strong>and</strong> arms, wear wide shoulderstraps, sweetheart necklines or three-quarter length sleeves with a flare.• Trousers <strong>and</strong> skirts can create the illusion of length <strong>to</strong> give the lookof sophistication. If you are <strong>curvy</strong> <strong>and</strong> in proportion, enjoy your body inthe knowledge that any shape of trouser or skirt will suit. If you havea slight pear shape <strong>to</strong> your hips or fullness in the thighs then choosetrousers <strong>and</strong> skirts with a slight flare from the hips so that your bot<strong>to</strong>mis not your widest point.• Enjoy jeans because they give your thighs a smooth <strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong>nedappearance <strong>and</strong> a <strong>curvy</strong> bot<strong>to</strong>m looks fantastic in good quality jeans.You may find, however, that you struggle with waists always being <strong>to</strong>olarge. This is where the lower cut at the hip or low-rise waist will reallybenefit you. Every woman finds jeans buying time consuming so visita s<strong>to</strong>re where there are loads of br<strong>and</strong>s <strong>to</strong> try (each will offer slightlydifferent cut); then you can keep going until you find the best fit <strong>and</strong>cut for you.• Wear a low or medium heel under your trousers. I say this because,with few exceptions, high heels are just plain uncomfortable <strong>and</strong> sophisticatedcool is not <strong>to</strong> be found on the face of someone whosefeet are in distress.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Wrap <strong>to</strong>pFitted shirtWRAP TOPThis is a flattering shape that wrapsthe body <strong>and</strong> creates definition.It usually appears as all in one with noneed of fastening.FITTED SHIRT.This is a classic that is adapted <strong>to</strong> suitevery body shape <strong>and</strong> is flattering <strong>to</strong>both <strong>curvy</strong> <strong>and</strong> slender alike (yourfavourite retailers will have taken yourbody type in<strong>to</strong> account when theydesign this classic). Petite retailers willalways offer shorter lengths for instance<strong>and</strong> tall retailers will add extralength <strong>and</strong> cuff detail.• Cropped trousers are a fantastic visual aid <strong>to</strong> leg elongation as areskirts that hover around the knee, leaving almost yards of leg on show.An A-line knee-length skirt will flatter full calves. Team with a low slingback. (Shoes with ankle straps always shorten the leg).• Wear a shoe that matches <strong>to</strong>nally with your skirt or trouser for extralengthening effect.• Wear boxy shapes like t-shirts or polo shirts that hide your bust <strong>and</strong>hips <strong>and</strong> make your body look bulky <strong>and</strong> square.• Choose <strong>to</strong>ps with high round necks that make your bosoms looklarge <strong>and</strong> low slung.• Wear thin Lycra that is <strong>to</strong>o closely fitted <strong>to</strong> the body; fleshy areasaround the body can look lumpy or roll-like.• Wear lacy bras under smooth fabrics like jersey because yourbosoms will look mottled <strong>and</strong> noticeable.Wear <strong>to</strong>ps that blouson round the waist <strong>and</strong> settle on the hips. You willlose your waist <strong>and</strong> your body will have no shape. This has got <strong>to</strong> bethe most unflattering shape for you!<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


This picture illustrates how horizontal lines can create width <strong>and</strong> aforeshortening effect. The look itself is exaggerated with manyhorizontal features in the clothing <strong>to</strong> make the point. See how the eyetravels across the body wherever there is a horizontal line.Horizontals are effectively used as visual punctuation on tall bodies butmust be used more sparingly on shorter <strong>and</strong> <strong>curvy</strong> bodies.They can, however, be great <strong>to</strong>ols <strong>to</strong> create width at a certain part ofthe body <strong>to</strong> give balance.Horizontal lines are made by:• Creating a colour break (a change of colour)• Belts• Seaming• Print• Garment layering <strong>to</strong> create horizontal slabs of colour• Features on clothes like smocking, yokes, panelling ribbing, shirring,fabric b<strong>and</strong>s<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Smock <strong>to</strong>pEmpire lineSMOCK TOPThis is a <strong>to</strong>p with a lot of fabric in it. It isrecognisable by the fl at yoke that reachesfrom the neckline <strong>to</strong> the rise of the bust,where it is joined <strong>to</strong> a full or gatheredeffect fabric. In general it will widenthe shoulders <strong>and</strong> blur any defi nitionbetween bust <strong>and</strong> tummy.It is also good for creating volumearound the whole of the upper body.EMPIRE LINEThis shape has enjoyed spectacularpopularity in recent seasons because it isa very fl attering <strong>and</strong> easy <strong>to</strong> wear shape.The difference between empire <strong>and</strong>smock is that the fabric is fi tted over thebust <strong>and</strong> pulled close <strong>to</strong> the body justunder the bust where it then falls away<strong>and</strong> fl ares over the tummy withoutdefi ning the shape.It is a great garment for creatingdefi nition around the bust <strong>and</strong> disguisingthe tummy.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Dropped waist or long line camisoleTunic DROPPED WAIST ORLONG LINE CAMISOLETops that have a dropped waist area joy <strong>to</strong> wear because the waist <strong>and</strong>tummy is not on show <strong>and</strong> for manyof us that means the chance <strong>to</strong> breathout <strong>and</strong> relax.<strong>How</strong>ever, the dropped waist draws theeye line downwards, creating someforeshortening.TUNICThis is one of the most popular shapesof recent times, creating a loose layerover the whole of the upper body<strong>and</strong> covering waistline <strong>and</strong> tummy.The advantages <strong>to</strong> this type of <strong>to</strong>pare numerous.But choosing the right style of tunicdepends on the features it has. The necklineis crucial; an all over pattern is neutral,while dominant decoration at the bot<strong>to</strong>mof the tunic draws the eye away from theupper body. Similarly dominant <strong>and</strong> eyecatchingembellishment at the <strong>to</strong>p of thetunic focuses the attention at the bust.The length of garment works bestfor you when it is not settled on thewidest part of your hips. Also theshorter your legs, the shorter the tunic<strong>to</strong>p needs <strong>to</strong> be <strong>to</strong> avoid visuallyforeshortening your legs.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


We all wear uniforms <strong>to</strong> some extent. In my own wardrobe I have adozen that have served me well. When I know what I am doing withmy day I then pick from one of the following uniforms; thisnarrows down my potential for time wasting.These are mostly black clothes because the days can be long; theremay be meetings <strong>and</strong> appointments or styling behind the scenes forTV or magazines. I often have my hair scraped back so that it is held inplace all day long <strong>and</strong> looks chic. For meetings, especially, I may need <strong>to</strong>look a little stern. I’m usually pitching ideas <strong>and</strong> I need <strong>to</strong> look efficient<strong>and</strong> authoritative.Well you’d think they’d be the same but they are not. Televisionrequires brightly coloured, larger than life clothes. I used <strong>to</strong> try <strong>and</strong> getaway with black after all it was the way I dressed but, when I looked atthe piece I’d filmed later, I looked <strong>to</strong>o stern <strong>and</strong> sombre. I often buyclothes for TV that I wouldn’t wear in an ordinary day because theylook <strong>to</strong>o attention seeking. Clothes also need <strong>to</strong> look new on TV so,even if I do like something, I don’t often wear it for real life. I’m veryfrugal <strong>and</strong> I buy from designer friends at wholesale. I also prioritisedesigner sales. Shoes are important here. If I’m on stage my shoes willbe level with many people’s eye line. I always wear stage shoes, whichhave ‘showy heels,’ that look <strong>and</strong> feel great for a few hours max!This is my jeans <strong>and</strong> trainers or boots look with a few loose <strong>to</strong>ps overpolo necks in the winter. I like <strong>to</strong>ps that cover tummies so that whenI’m sitting down at my desk I don’t have <strong>to</strong> hold my tummy in. I wearjeans with a bit of Lycra in them because sitting at my desk all day canbe uncomfortable in restrictive fabrics. I always write up until the lastmoment then I rush off <strong>to</strong> collect my youngest from school. I likestriding out in my trainers (currently red <strong>and</strong> pink Gola’s), it’s theperfect antidote <strong>to</strong> being cooped up at my desk.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


These are the women I dress for. I want them <strong>to</strong> think I am well put<strong>to</strong>gether <strong>and</strong> effortlessly stylish. Amongst them I have writers, designers,other TV presenters, PR’s <strong>and</strong> magazine publishers as well as othermums from school. I probably put the most amount of effort in<strong>to</strong> thislook. But it’s not about labels, it’s about individuality. I take pleasure inmixing things up <strong>and</strong> wearing designer items I have loved for years, likemy favourite Betty Jackson designs with some high street labels <strong>and</strong>something I have just bought from a second h<strong>and</strong> shop. It’s all aboutlooking <strong>and</strong> feeling good isn’t it? I love the way my friends dress <strong>to</strong>o<strong>and</strong> I’m inspired by their individuality - often we will exchange details.Bright colours or funky designs just look very attention seeking <strong>and</strong> ou<strong>to</strong>f place in the country. I spend as much time as I can there <strong>to</strong> unwind.It’s about as far from fashion as you can get <strong>and</strong> if I have driven up fromLondon in my London clothes – they can feel strangely out of place.Heels <strong>and</strong> pointy boots just don’t work on s<strong>to</strong>ny <strong>and</strong> uneven paths.Of course I wear old muddy clothes that have seen a lot of action.Gardening is my favourite hobby (my h<strong>and</strong>s are never manicuredbecause gardening just ruins them). I love wiping my filthy h<strong>and</strong>s downmy clothes <strong>and</strong> then popping in<strong>to</strong> the garden centre still messy <strong>and</strong>wild with my Welling<strong>to</strong>n boots on. I know I am recognised <strong>and</strong> getsome strange looks because I am always muddy or dirty. Gardeningshouldn’t be any other way!Because I don’t do girly, I know where every woman who tells me thesame is coming from. For evening wear I love monochrome <strong>and</strong>tailored designs – because there is something sexy about a well cutwaistcoat with cleavage <strong>and</strong> beautifully cut trousers. Hey it workedwhen Yves St Laurent launched it all those years ago <strong>and</strong> it’s still aclassic now. I love shoes <strong>to</strong>o so I indulge myself with classic designsfrom Georgina <strong>Good</strong>man (heels always) that last <strong>and</strong> last.Slipping in<strong>to</strong> these clothes helps me <strong>to</strong> focus on the role in h<strong>and</strong>. Iam dressed for it <strong>and</strong> I need think no more about what I am wearing.Instead I concentrate on what I am doing.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Fitted streamlined jacketJACKET SHAPESTHIS SECTION GIVES YOU ANINSIGHT INTOTHOSEALL-IMPORTANT OUTER LAYERS. BYTHEIR VERY NATURE JACKETS ARETAILORED TO SOME DEGREE ANDHAVE BELT, POCKET AND COLLARFEATURES. (I’VE DONE A SEPARATECOLLAR GUIDE OVERLEAF). I WILLALSO BE TALKING ABOUT LENGTHSHERE NOT JUST FOR JACKETSBUT COATS TOO SINCE THE SAMESTYLES APPEAR WITHEXTRA LENGTH.FITTED STREAMLINED JACKETThe fitted streamlined jacket comes in avariety of styles but is identifiable by itslack of features <strong>and</strong> undefined waist. It isa classic style <strong>and</strong> often in a soft leatheror glazed gabardine fabrics.Colour has the ability <strong>to</strong> draw the eye <strong>to</strong> wherever it is placed. It canalso be a helpful <strong>to</strong>ol in playing up or down certain parts of your body.So use colour with the knowledge that a dark colour minimises <strong>and</strong>narrows the part of the body it covers <strong>and</strong> bright orlight colouraccentuates or draws attention <strong>to</strong> the part of the body it covers.Firstly, choose colour <strong>to</strong> suit your skin <strong>to</strong>ne. If you are pale find a <strong>to</strong>nalmatch in your favourite colour. What I’m saying here is that you canwear any colour you damn well please but it must be <strong>to</strong>nallycompatible <strong>to</strong> your skin <strong>and</strong> hair. Let’s take blue for instance - thereis a huge selection of <strong>to</strong>nes from baby blue <strong>to</strong> peacock blue <strong>and</strong>midnight blue. Discount the primary version immediately. Primarycolours suit very few skin <strong>to</strong>nes over five years old.Then apply this basic rule: If you are pale, choose a blue that is notpigment intense. If you are mid-<strong>to</strong>ne, choose a blue with a mediumamount of pigment <strong>and</strong>, if you are dark, you can go all the way. Putsimply this means that pale skins can wear lights but not brights (richcolour will make you look washed out). Mid-<strong>to</strong>nes can wear lights orbrights that are not <strong>to</strong>o rich <strong>and</strong> not <strong>to</strong>o pale <strong>and</strong> dark skins can wearbrights but not lights (a pale colour can often look faded <strong>and</strong> washedout unable <strong>to</strong> offer any complimentary glow <strong>to</strong> dark skin).<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Single breasted jacketSINGLE-BREASTED JACKETThis is a universally flattering jacket <strong>and</strong>will always make an appearance on thecatwalk (details slightly changed eachseason of course). Quite often it isfastened by only one or two but<strong>to</strong>ns <strong>and</strong>has a fitted waist <strong>and</strong> small pocketsat the hips. All important is the fit <strong>and</strong>the proportion on your body. It musthang from your shoulders with nowarping across the body.This style is also found in coats wherethe waist is featured <strong>and</strong> the fabric fallsfrom the hip in<strong>to</strong> a gentle flare. Again thisis a universally flattering style.There is plenty more <strong>to</strong> say on colour but one other helpful tip is takethe garment you want <strong>to</strong> buy <strong>to</strong> a mirror in daylight (electric light willnot help you at all). Then hold the colour right up under your chin <strong>and</strong>take a good look. It will reflect under your chin, under your nose <strong>and</strong>under your eyebrows - does this add a wonderful glow <strong>to</strong> your skin ordoes it look awful though you don’t know why?This method works so efficiently because colour gives off reflectedlight <strong>and</strong> throws it on<strong>to</strong> your skin. I, for instance, do not choose <strong>to</strong> wearmuch yellow <strong>and</strong> green because I have very yellow skin so I cool myskin down with blues <strong>and</strong> bluey pinks.Try this in your bedroom with your clothes now <strong>and</strong> you’ll seewhat I mean!• As a <strong>st<strong>and</strong>ard</strong> height with an apple shape figure you may enjoy keepingwithin one colour grouping <strong>to</strong> create the feeling of extra height <strong>and</strong>elongation. Pick a <strong>to</strong>ne that suits your skin <strong>to</strong>ne <strong>and</strong> then createan outfit from colours in similar <strong>to</strong>nes, for instance, pink <strong>and</strong> lilac orbeige <strong>and</strong> cream.• A wide belt in a lighter colour will define your waist <strong>and</strong> make itseem fuller <strong>to</strong> balance hips <strong>and</strong> bust. The same style of belt in a darkercolour will make your waist seem smaller <strong>and</strong> your hips <strong>and</strong> bust larger.• Match your shoes <strong>and</strong> bag <strong>to</strong>nally <strong>to</strong> your clothes <strong>to</strong> continue theline <strong>and</strong> elongate your body.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Fitted detail jacketFITTED DETAIL JACKETThis is a much more sporting shape withfeatures like collar <strong>and</strong> cuff detail. It willappear in denim, cord, leather <strong>and</strong> avariety of lightweight but weatherproofed fabrics.The extra pockets will add volume<strong>to</strong> the upper body <strong>and</strong> can make itappear bulkier.This style in coat form can look cluttered.• Enjoy colour, you can place it at various points on your body <strong>to</strong> drawthe eye or use it all over. Put bright colour at the <strong>to</strong>p third of yourbody <strong>to</strong> create the illusion of height. If you put it on the bot<strong>to</strong>m part ofyour body it will foreshorten you. (You can work with it how you likesince you are not tall or short).• If you like a colour but it doesn’t suit your skin <strong>to</strong>ne, wear it as askirt or trousers; that way it is not close enough <strong>to</strong> your face <strong>to</strong> createreflected light.• To create a narrowing effect, wear a panel of colour through themiddle portion of your body. Or <strong>to</strong> draw attention <strong>to</strong> your curvaceousfigure, wear a wide <strong>and</strong> contrasting coloured belt that will enhanceyour waist.• Wear light or bright colour at the <strong>to</strong>p of your body <strong>and</strong> dark colourat the bot<strong>to</strong>m for the most flattering results (unless you are verging onbeing <strong>to</strong>p heavy).<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Double breasted jacketThe trench style wrap The cropped jacketDOUBLE BREASTED JACKETThis style has a sporting feel <strong>and</strong> appearsin many different cuts. Recent militaryfashion for coats <strong>and</strong> jackets havefeatured the double breasted cut <strong>and</strong> italso appears when women’s suiting takeson a more <strong>and</strong>rogynous or mannish feel.But<strong>to</strong>ns may also be exaggerated in size<strong>and</strong> lapels large. This style in coat formwill usually be long.The noticeable double-breasted featurecan be used <strong>to</strong> widen the upper body.THE TRENCH STYLEWRAP JACKETThe jacket may fasten with subtlebut<strong>to</strong>ns or it may just wrap over. Thecrucial feature is the belted waist. As withthe single breasted jacket, this is a greatway <strong>to</strong> define the upper body <strong>and</strong> isagain universally flattering.This style is also found in coats wherethe waist is featured <strong>and</strong> the fabric fallsfrom the hip in<strong>to</strong> a gentle flare. Again thisis a universally flattering style.THE CROPPED JACKETThink Coco Chanel classic; think hemlinejust below the waist. This jacket isdesigned <strong>to</strong> change the proportions of abody making the lower body lookstreamlined. It often appears in softfeminine pastel tweeds or wool mixes.This style will create volume around theupper body.This style in coat form is straight with nodefinition at the waist <strong>and</strong> has a JackieKennedy classic retro charm.Avoid if you are tall or <strong>to</strong>p-heavy injacket <strong>and</strong> coat form.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


GiletBoleroCropped 50’s style jacketWaistcoatGILETThis is a great shaped garment, which hasappeared as a padded design <strong>and</strong> morerecently a sheepskin item. It has nofastening <strong>and</strong> sits over other layers <strong>to</strong>give a practical warmth <strong>to</strong> any clothing.The strong vertical trim feature can help<strong>to</strong> elongate the body.BOLEROThe overwhelming feature of this jacketis its hemline, which ends at high rib cage.Catwalks can sometimes feature this cutheavily over a fitted jersey <strong>to</strong>p <strong>and</strong>trousers. It is very lengthening but canalso focus interest around the bust.CROPPED 50’S STYLE JACKETCropped sleeved jackets with croppedhemlines work very well over dresses.They often have one or two but<strong>to</strong>nfastening at the collarbone or a tiefastening <strong>and</strong> fall open. In lightweightfabrics they are a summer design thatappears on the catwalk for time <strong>to</strong> time<strong>and</strong> because of the roomy cut will alwaysmake the body look dainty within.WAISTCOATThe waistcoat is one of my favouritegarments because it can give shape <strong>to</strong>the upper body. It works just as well withjeans as it does with more formal clothes.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Long low breaksWide lepels LAPELS AND COLLARSCRUCIAL FEATURES ON JACKETS;LAPELS CAN WIDEN ORSTREAMLINE THE BODY ASWELL AS FORESHORTEN ORLENGTHEN. UNDERSTANDINGWHICH LAPELS YOU CAN CHOOSETO FLATTER YOUR SHAPE IS EASY.LONG LOW BREAKSThis type of collar reveals whatever youare wearing underneath so plan <strong>to</strong>make a deliberate colour or garmentstatement. Often the waistline of thegarment will be less pronounced.This shape will take the eye lower downthe body.WIDE LAPELSThese are instantly balancing for largerbodies. The expanse of lapel looksgenerous <strong>and</strong> luxurious.<strong>Good</strong> for wide shoulders.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Shawl collarHigh break collar St<strong>and</strong>ard break collarSHAWL COLLARThis is a thick wide luxurious lookingcollar <strong>and</strong> often appears on knitwear orspecial occasionwear jackets <strong>and</strong>luxurious coats.HIGH BREAK COLLARThis style of collar can often be found incoats, frock coats <strong>and</strong> suit jackets. It has afeeling of being strict <strong>and</strong> pared down.It will raise the eye <strong>to</strong> the bust area.STANDARD BREAK COLLARThis style of collar is universally flatteringwhich is why it appears with suchregularity. Included on most jackets,frock coats <strong>and</strong> coats because of itsproportions, it will always give yourupper body a streamlined <strong>and</strong> neat look.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


This is a longer-term project, however, <strong>and</strong> not something you can doimmediately because it takes a mental shift <strong>to</strong> adjust your shoppinghabits <strong>and</strong> a few seasons <strong>to</strong> make those changes take effect. Thisproject is called Creating the Perfect Capsule Wardrobe on a Budget.Think about your newly organised wardrobe. It is beautifully orderednow <strong>and</strong> you know where everything is. Congratulations.Let’s get you thinking like a professional stylist now. Clothes fall in<strong>to</strong>different groups <strong>and</strong> once you see your clothes in this way they willau<strong>to</strong>matically help you <strong>to</strong> know what should go <strong>to</strong>gether <strong>and</strong> when <strong>to</strong>make changes.Garments in this section are in <strong>and</strong> out of the shops in a season. Theyare directly influenced by what has come off the catwalk <strong>and</strong> are verytrend-oriented. Clothes in this group are about change <strong>and</strong> novelty –they can be extreme, eye catching or brightly coloured. These are theclothes you can experiment with. Perhaps a particular print trend takesyour fancy <strong>and</strong>, although you wouldn’t normally be attracted <strong>to</strong> such acombination, if it appeals for whatever reason – go ahead treat yourself.Spend only a small amount of money on clothes in this group. Theycan be as high fashion as you like but fashions change quickly so theseclothes need <strong>to</strong> be worn <strong>to</strong> death during the season. You will tire ofthem that way <strong>and</strong> they of you (cheap clothes are not made <strong>to</strong> last) –at the end of the season donate them.<strong>Look</strong> for: statement <strong>to</strong>ps, playful accessories, the latest wrap, colourfulshoes <strong>and</strong> dresses.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


It’s important <strong>to</strong> remember here that this fashion group sometimesoffers a look that is suited <strong>to</strong> a certain body shape or has a particularoffer that is just right for you. If this applies one season, then buy up themore classic garments within the look - it won’t be there next season.These garments are usually less trend-oriented <strong>and</strong> will last across acouple of seasons. Every woman will have her own favourite garmentsthat she has found work best for her body.Spend a little more on these items. You need more quality (goodfabrics, linings, trimmings) because you want the garment <strong>to</strong> last over afew seasons or more.<strong>Look</strong> for: denim skirts <strong>and</strong> other flattering shapes that have a moreclassic feel, jeans styles, lightweight jackets, fitted shirts <strong>and</strong> shapedsweaters.These are the garments that every woman needs in her wardrobe,which can be dressed up or accessorised with the arrival of each newtrend (using clothes from the fashion section). They are classic styles sothey don’t date <strong>and</strong> they fit the body well, giving an air of sophisticatedgrooming.Spend what you can afford but buy these clothes as sale items <strong>to</strong> getthe best value for your money. Get used <strong>to</strong> planning shopping trips inthe sale times <strong>and</strong> shop with a list of exactly what you need. Don’timpulse buy anything in the sale because it is drastically reduced inprice, unless it happens <strong>to</strong> be exactly what you were looking for inthe first place!If your body shape is not well enough catered for by mainstreamshops, then look for a good dressmaker <strong>to</strong> make up the clothes thatwill be in your wardrobe for a long time. It is cheaper than you think ifyou balance the cost against years of pleasure, confidence <strong>and</strong>knowledge that you can always rely upon these garments <strong>to</strong> showcaseyour body beautifully. Trousers are crucial for fit, as is a tailored jacket.Once the dressmaker has your measurements, you can wait for fabricsales <strong>and</strong> s<strong>to</strong>re cloth ready <strong>to</strong> make in<strong>to</strong> a garment <strong>to</strong> fit.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


<strong>Look</strong> for: the perfect (classically cut <strong>and</strong> beautifully fitted) pair ofblack trousers, a classic jacket <strong>and</strong> skirt, a fitted <strong>and</strong> classically cut coat(a Trench coat is always a good option). A classic pair of leather ridingboots or a beautiful leather h<strong>and</strong>bag, cashmere knitwear <strong>and</strong> so on(these are all things I have bought at a snip during the sales). Stick <strong>to</strong>neutral colours for these items because colour dates quickly <strong>to</strong>o.These are the T-shirts, slacks, loose knitwear, comfortable fleeces etc,which need not be dictated <strong>to</strong> by trend unless you want them <strong>to</strong> be.Save time <strong>and</strong> money by shopping online or in catalogues for theseitems since fit is less of an issue.Whenever you buy new items, clear out anything old so that yourwardrobe does not slowly grow <strong>to</strong> overfull. Donate <strong>to</strong> second h<strong>and</strong>s<strong>to</strong>res or <strong>to</strong> friends (I have three sisters <strong>and</strong> so I’m often passing thingson for someone else <strong>to</strong> get some enjoyment from). The only reason<strong>to</strong> hold on <strong>to</strong> something is if it will age beautifully – like a beautifullycrafted h<strong>and</strong>bag for instance. Highstreet designs certainly do not agewell because they are not made <strong>to</strong> last.This way you can create a wardrobe where the classic capsule <strong>and</strong>basics are in place <strong>and</strong> the fashionable items are updated seasonally<strong>and</strong> inexpensively. If you are ever in doubt remind yourself that it isalways better <strong>to</strong> have a few beautifully fitted garments that showcaseyou in the very best way possible than lots of ill-fitting garments in awardrobe.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


PRINTIF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLEWITH PRINT, BELIEVING THAT IT ISUNFLATTERING, UNLESSYOU ARE MODEL SHAPED, IT ISBECAUSE YOU MAY HAVE CHOSENTHE WRONG SIZE PRINT IN THEPAST OR PLACED IT ON A PARTOF YOUR BODY THAT IS NOTFLATTERING. IN ACTUAL FACT IT ISAN EXCELLENT TOOL AND, IF YOURWARDROBE IS DEVOID OF PRINT,YOU ARE MISSING OUT ON ANEFFECTIVE WAY TO BALANCE YOURBODY SYMMETRY. THERE ARE TWOTHINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN YOUARE WORKING WITH PRINT. THESIZE AND ALSO THE DIRECTION OFTHE PRINT AS WELL AS WHERE YOUPLACE THE PRINT.• Wear prints that are a medium sized. This is because you need <strong>to</strong>balance your body. If you are choosing a patterned dress, for example,go for something that has a boldness in either shape <strong>and</strong> or colour butprioritise a print on a vertical line. Print that seems <strong>to</strong> run on ahorizontal line will widen you, making you appear shorter.• Choose print <strong>to</strong> draw they eye <strong>to</strong> parts of the body you want others<strong>to</strong> focus on.• Use horizontal-effect print across <strong>to</strong> create the feeling of width <strong>and</strong>vertical effect print up <strong>and</strong> down your body <strong>to</strong> affect the feeling ofnarrowing <strong>and</strong> elongation. A great <strong>and</strong> flattering simple print for youwould be the diagonal line especially across bust <strong>and</strong> hips.• Choose tiny print designs. Placed around <strong>curvy</strong> hips <strong>and</strong> breasts, theywill accentuate these areas <strong>and</strong> make you seem strangely large.• Wear <strong>to</strong>o much attention seeking print in formal situations like workfor instance – you already have a very noticeable body <strong>and</strong>, whereas anangular shaped woman might wear a highly patterned dress <strong>to</strong> createsome feeling of enhanced femininity, you don’t need <strong>to</strong>.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


SMALL ALL OVERTHE BODY PRINTWhen a print is used all over the body ithas the ability <strong>to</strong> create visual harmony<strong>and</strong> when balanced by neutralaccessories <strong>and</strong> outer garments willgive a sophisticated <strong>and</strong> confident finish.The size of the print here is crucial. Seehow this relatively small print gives abody volume by making it look biggerthan it is.WEIGHT OF PRINTWhen you are working with print besure <strong>to</strong> choose the right weight of printfor you. See how the print size chosenhere balances this body, whereas thesmaller print overleaf makes the samebody look larger.PLACEMENT OF PRINTPay attention <strong>to</strong> where you place prin<strong>to</strong>n your body. This larger sized print is agreat illustration of the way a big boldprint can make the body look smaller.But there are two features at play here.See how the print (<strong>and</strong> indeed any printregardless of its size) creates focus <strong>and</strong>interest where it is placed. In this instanceat the <strong>to</strong>p of this body drawing our eyeaway from the bot<strong>to</strong>m half. This <strong>to</strong>olworks just as well in reverse. Just placedark solid colour in the area you want<strong>to</strong> minimise <strong>and</strong> bright bold print on thepart of the body you want <strong>to</strong> addvolume <strong>to</strong>.Start experimenting with print;it’s a great <strong>to</strong>ol <strong>to</strong> play with.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Classic V-neck fine knit cardiFormal knitted cardigan FORMAL KNITTEDCARDIGANSWITH NEW KNITWEAR MACHINESAND TECHNIQUES CARDIGANSARE REVVED UP OUTER LAYERSTHAT COME IN ALL SHAPES ANDSIZES WITH PLENTY OF CATWALKTOUCHES. THE DIFFERENCEBETWEEN CARDIGANS ANDJACKETS IS THE SENSUALITYFACTOR. SOFT, TACTILE, FINEFINISHES OR CHUNKY KNITS ANDSLUBBED OR MEATY YARNS CREATETHE OPPORTUNITY FOR AGARMENT TO HAVE MUCH MOREPERSONALITY THAN A JACKET.READ ON FOR THE RIGHTONES FOR YOUCLASSIC V-NECK FINEKNIT CARDIGANAgain the shape is so classic that it isinterchangeable with the style abovebut for one thing. The neckline. This willalways be more flattering for elongatingthe neck.Consider breaking up the hard horizontalline that the fastened garment makesacross the hip or s<strong>to</strong>mach area byundoing the last few but<strong>to</strong>ns. This s<strong>to</strong>psthe body looking as though it has beencut in half..CARDIGANThis is really a soft version of the jacket<strong>and</strong> works very well for more formalsettings. The office or interview situationswhere you want <strong>to</strong> give an approachableair are two good uses. It is usually fastenedat the <strong>to</strong>p with one or two featurebut<strong>to</strong>ns <strong>and</strong> is made of heavy <strong>and</strong> densewool so that it keeps its shape. <strong>Good</strong> forall shapes.Especially good for large or squareshoulders because it has a softeningeffect.OBLONG CARDIGANThis style has become very popular inrecent seasons. It rarely fastens <strong>and</strong> hangseither side of the body with the unevenhem reaching the mid thigh <strong>and</strong> obscuringpart of it, <strong>to</strong> create a minimising effect.The strong vertical lines it makes up<strong>and</strong> down your body will also elongateyour frame –the taller you are the longerthe hemline needs <strong>to</strong> be. Chunky or fine<strong>and</strong> floaty, you can wear the oblong cardiall season round.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Wrap cardiganClassic scoop necked fine knit cardiganCropped cardiganTie front cardiganWRAP CARDIGANA wrap cardigan allows you <strong>to</strong> create thedefinition you want underneath the bust<strong>and</strong> around the ribs <strong>and</strong> tummy.CLASSIC SCOOP NECKEDFINE KNIT CARDIGANThis will have a single breasted fasteningwith a thin line of but<strong>to</strong>ns through thecentre of the body. Fittings will rangefrom loose fit <strong>to</strong> fitted. This is a classictraditional garment that works well inevery wardrobe.CROPPED CARDIGANThis style is similar <strong>to</strong> the cropped jacketwe’ve already featured. In a knitted form,however, it can be more playful <strong>and</strong> a bitmore sensual. It needs <strong>to</strong> be simple withnot <strong>to</strong>o much detail <strong>to</strong> work. Smallpocket <strong>and</strong> dainty fastenings are justright. It will change the proportions ofthe body if you have even bodysymmetry, making the legs appear longer.Because it is not fitted it ismore flattering for a slender shape.TIE FRONT CARDIGANLove these styles because they areuniversally flattering. The trick is the tiefastening which pulls in the waist <strong>and</strong>creates definition for the body. There isn’ta shape they don’t suit.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Bolero cardiganBolero tie cardigan Shawl neck wrap cardigan with tieLong line cardiganBOLERO CARDIGANThese have been very popular in recentseasons <strong>and</strong> work as a great outer layerover summer dresses or evening styledresses.They can come in fine ormedium weight yarns <strong>and</strong> will changethe proportion of the body significantly,drawing the eye up <strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>p of thebody.A useful garment for creating more volumearound the bust <strong>and</strong> suggesting theillusion of long legs.BOLERO TIE CARDIGANYou often see these styles in the summer<strong>and</strong> they’re different from the plainbolero cardigan I’ve just featured becausethey tie under the bust giving muchbetter definition <strong>to</strong> curves.SHAWL NECK WRAPCARDIGAN WITH TIEThis is a classic piece of knitwear <strong>and</strong>usually appears in heavy, chunky yarn <strong>to</strong>give the whole look of the garment aluxurious feel but can also appear inmedium weight yarns. It makes anywearer look instantly chic <strong>and</strong> works justas well with jeans as it does with moreformal choices.When the waist is defined in this way,hips <strong>and</strong> bust become more prominent.LONG LINE CARDIGANThis is a great shape cardigan thatallows the wearer <strong>to</strong> leave open. Itmay appear with a knitted waterfallstyle collar or a soft shawl collar aspictured. It creates elongationthrough the <strong>to</strong>rso <strong>and</strong> is a veryversatile garment.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


The reason I can be so confident that this new approach <strong>to</strong>choosing clothes will work for you is because I know how mucheasier my life is now.But <strong>to</strong> take you back, I remember shopping when I was in my lateteens on a limited budget <strong>and</strong> I know how disheartening it is <strong>to</strong> feelyou can’t find the right clothes <strong>to</strong> suit you.In my case it was because I was unconfident about my body <strong>and</strong> it’schanging shape - suddenly I had curves <strong>and</strong> all the things I had reliedupon <strong>to</strong> see me through before looked strange now that my bodyhad in my eyes ‘puffed up.’ For a while I blamed my body. I punished itby trying <strong>to</strong> go without food so that it would return <strong>to</strong> ‘normal,’ <strong>and</strong> Ispent longer looking in the mirror. I think I was trying <strong>to</strong> find the oldme. It was hard <strong>to</strong> accept the new me especially when she didn’tmeasure up <strong>to</strong> my <strong>st<strong>and</strong>ard</strong>s <strong>and</strong> society’s <strong>st<strong>and</strong>ard</strong>s of a thin <strong>and</strong>symmetrically proportioned body.I trawled the shops looking for the ‘right <strong>to</strong>p’ or the ‘best jeans;’ thesewere clothes that would make me feel better about myself. I neverfound them of course <strong>and</strong> I felt disheartened after every shopping trip<strong>and</strong> I felt unattractive.From the letters I get I know that many women feel that samediscomfort about their bodies when they go shopping. Being used <strong>to</strong>seeing so many fashion images where the clothes seem <strong>to</strong> fit themodels so beautifully, we then become our own worst critics at themirror as we scan our bodies.Because we invest in clothes with the ability <strong>to</strong> make us feel better,more attractive, thinner, shapelier <strong>and</strong> many other unachievable thingsbesides, we are often looking for an emotional fix when we buy clothes.When we don’t find that comfort or high, we think we have failed.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


If you can remove the emotional stuff <strong>and</strong> assess your body practically<strong>and</strong> apply the styling <strong>to</strong>ols you have learned, then you can makebig changes <strong>to</strong> your look.For many years I have bought clothes because they suit my skin <strong>to</strong>ne<strong>and</strong> body shape <strong>and</strong> show me in the best light. I don’t have <strong>to</strong> love them!I just know they work best on my shape. When I look in the mirror Iam checking for fit <strong>and</strong> compatibility. Turn your thinking around <strong>to</strong> take amore unemotional view <strong>and</strong> I promise you it will be more effective.• Don’t browse or surf without purpose. Only visit the shops whenyou have identified a gap in your wardrobe or an item you need.• Give yourself a budget <strong>and</strong> visit only the shops where you know youget a good fit.• Wear clothes that are easy <strong>to</strong> take off <strong>and</strong> on so that it is easy <strong>to</strong>keep on visiting the changing room.• Take wipes – we all get hot <strong>and</strong> bothered when we are trying onclothes, especially in hot weather.• Some clothes have a lot of hanger appeal like pretty feminine flouncyclothes but they can disappoint. Do not prioritise pretty things on thehanger – look at the garment carefully for the features you know willsuit your body shape before you consider trying on.• Never buy anything intending <strong>to</strong> slim in<strong>to</strong> it.• Use the sizing as a guide only. I had exactly this with a client recentlywhere the smaller dress did not fit but she was in raptures. When Iinsisted she try the larger dress – which fitted beautifully – she was notso happy <strong>and</strong> couldn’t see the truth in the mirror. It has <strong>to</strong> be all aboutfit, not the size. Cut out the label at home later if this helps.• Whenever you find yourself getting ready <strong>to</strong> buy something, thinkabout how it will work with the rest of your wardrobe, what else youwill wear it with <strong>and</strong> where you see yourself wearing it. If you can’tenvisage either, then consider this a big alarm bell <strong>and</strong> don’t buy.• Set yourself a time limit <strong>and</strong> if you haven’t found what you arelooking for when it has expired s<strong>to</strong>p. Find out when new s<strong>to</strong>ck arrives<strong>and</strong> reschedule.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


ACCESSORIESACCESSORIES ARE THE EXTRASTHAT WILL GIVE YOUR LOOKPOLISH. IT IS ALWAYS BETTER TOGO FOR ONE OR TWO STATEMENTPIECES THAT WILL DRAW THE EYETO WHERE THEY ARE PLACED TOGIVE OFF A CONFIDENT ANDCONSIDERED FINISH. WHEN YOUGET DRESSED STAND BACKANDREAD THE LOOK YOU HAVE CRE-ATED THEN CONSIDER WHETHERANY ACCESSORIES WILLGIVE YOU BETTER BALANCE.Trends will always come <strong>and</strong> go. One season there will be mini-clutchbags <strong>and</strong> the next large fl oppy holdalls. Just think of the way thatsunglasses morph from huge Jackie O style windscreens <strong>to</strong> minimal <strong>and</strong>frameless slivers of shade. Once you underst<strong>and</strong> how <strong>to</strong> balanceyour body, you’ll always make quick easy choices.• Choose shapes that are in proportion with your body. Go for amedium <strong>to</strong> large structured h<strong>and</strong>bag (Grace Kelly style is perfect).Actually, it’s this simple. I always advise pregnant women <strong>to</strong> buy ahuge bag so that it competes for attention with their s<strong>to</strong>mach.• Do balance things like bags, eye-wear, jewellery <strong>and</strong> belts. Make surethey are of a similar weight e.g. medium <strong>to</strong> large pieces of statementjewellery <strong>to</strong>gether with medium <strong>to</strong> large belts <strong>and</strong> medium <strong>to</strong>large size glasses.• Where the colour of glasses <strong>and</strong> sunglasses is concerned, apply thepigment rule (as outlined in the colour section) by matching the <strong>to</strong>neof the frame or coloured lenses <strong>to</strong> your own skin <strong>and</strong> hair <strong>to</strong>ne. Forinstance, if you are blonde try amber or rose-coloured frames, if youare dark, you can go for bolder <strong>to</strong>nes.• Consider colour because, if you choose a bright or noticeable design,the eye will always be drawn <strong>to</strong> the point you place it on your body.It follows then that, if you fall in love with a neon hipster belt, you willbe drawing attention <strong>to</strong> your hips. This could look great as long as it isintentional.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Structured bag/Kelly style bag BAG SHAPESI’VE TALKED ABOUT THE SIZE OFACCESSORIESIN RELATION TOYOUR BODY SHAPE SO, WHENCHOOSING A BAG, MAKE SUREYOU HOLD IT UP TO YOURSELF INTHE MIRROR; THIS WILL BE ONE OFTHE EASIEST WAYS TO SEEWHETHER IT IS IN PROPORTIONWITH YOUR SHAPE. OF COURSEA PAGE WITH ANYTHING ABOUTBAGS ON IT COULD BE A VERYLONG ONE (SINCE WE ALL HAVEOUR FAVOURITES) BUT I’VEINCLUDED THE MOST CLASSICSHAPES FOR YOU TO HUNT DOWN.THAT WAY YOU CAN BEGIN TOBUILD UP A WARDROBE OF BAGSIN DIFFERENT COLOURS TOCOMPLIMENT YOUR CLOTHES.STRUCTUREDBAG/KELLY STYLE BAGThis is a bag that has a hard frame <strong>and</strong>looks perfect for more formal usage likeoffice or a special occasion. Originallynamed after Grace Kelly by its makersHermes, it has inspired many copies. Itcomes in many colours <strong>and</strong> designsbut it is the square corners that are thekey part of the design. A bag like thisone needs co-ordinating with formalfeminine shoes <strong>to</strong>o.• Choose shoes that have a chunky heel or a wedge <strong>to</strong> create shapelycalves <strong>and</strong> elegant ankles. For wide feet a pointed <strong>to</strong>e creates a feelingof narrowness. Knee-high or calf high boots will also be a great stylefor you.• Choose tiny accessories like slither thin belts, small bags etc. or yourbreast <strong>and</strong> hips will look larger by contrast..• Wear thin chains either as necklaces or bracelets or tiny rings <strong>and</strong>miniature studs in your ears - again these will serve <strong>to</strong> make you looklarger than you are.• Wear small sunglasses or small brooches – unless you like the factthat your bosoms will look huge by contrast.• Wear thin strappy shoes with paper soles <strong>and</strong> pencil thin heels(unless again you are liberating the siren in you)!• Choose ankle straps – these will make your legs look shorter.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Saddlebag styleOblong clutchPouch bag Soft structured bag with flapSoft structured bowling bagSADDLEBAG STYLEThis bag has more softness <strong>to</strong> it. It is apopular shape since being chosen byJohn Galliano at Dior <strong>to</strong> represent the‘house’ look. It is usually in leather <strong>and</strong>needs a thought out approach. Shoes orboots need <strong>to</strong> work with it because it isa dominant shape.OBLONG CLUTCHIf you are choosing an evening bag thenthe oblong clutch is a great shape. Easy<strong>to</strong> hold, it has a flattering effect <strong>and</strong> workwell with eveningwear or fitted 50’sinspired summer dresses. Sometimesclutches can be eye catching inthemselves because they are bright, shiny<strong>and</strong> jewel-like so match carefully <strong>to</strong> otheraccessories.POUCH BAGThis is a soft <strong>and</strong> squashy shape that hasenjoyed popularity on the catwalk. It canbe fabric, plain, pattered or leather. It hasa fleshy feel <strong>to</strong> it <strong>and</strong> shouldn’t be overstuffed. It can be very eye catching,almost like a novelty <strong>to</strong>uch <strong>and</strong> doesn’tneed <strong>to</strong> be matched <strong>to</strong> your shoes.SOFT STRUCTURED BAGWITH FLAPThis style of bag is less harsh than thestructured Kelly bag style. It is moreversatile for both occasion <strong>and</strong> officedressing as well as more informalsettings. It adapts well <strong>to</strong> colours <strong>and</strong>pastel colours <strong>and</strong> is great for summer.SOFT STRUCTUREDBOWLING BAGMuccia Prada introduced the bowlingbag shape but it has already becomepopular amongst image consciouswomen. It often appears with extrapockets, flaps <strong>and</strong> side zips <strong>and</strong> has ayoung sporty feel.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Long loose oblong Long WraparoundLong loose looped scarf LONG LOOSE OBLONGSCARVESSCARVES ARE TOOLS FOR YOURCREATIVITY. THEY ARE A HELPFULAND PRACTICAL ACCESSORYTHAT WILL ADD COLOUR OR PAT-TERN TO YOUR LOOK. BECAUSETHEY DRAW THE EYE, HOWEVER,NEUTRAL COLOURED SCARVESCAN BE JUST AS EFFECTIVE AS STYL-ING TOOLS BUT LESS ATTENTIONSEEKING. THIS IS SOMETHING TOHAVE A PLAY IN THE MIRROR WITHSO THAT YOU CAN DECIDEUPON YOUR OWN APPROACH.This scarf when used as a contrastingcolour or pattern will take the eye up<strong>and</strong> down the body <strong>to</strong> create long leanslines <strong>to</strong> elongate you <strong>and</strong> streamline yourupper body. It is an excellent device.LONG WRAPAROUNDA scarf that is circled round the neckmany times will make a neck look moreslender <strong>and</strong> shoulders smaller.Avoid if you have small or slopingshoulders.LONG LOOSELOOPED SCARFWhen a scarf is looped it draws the eye<strong>to</strong> wherever the loop is placed. It is agreat device for adding volume at thechest <strong>and</strong> a useful foreshortening device.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


The necklace p<strong>and</strong>ant <strong>and</strong> necklineDrop pendant JEWELLERYCOSTUME JEWELLERY IS JUST ONEOF THE BEST WAYS TO SHOWOTHERS YOUR CONFIDENTAPPROACH TO STYLING. IT CANALSO CREATE A DOMINANTNECKLINE THAT FLATTERS YOURSHAPE WHEN YOU WEAROVER A POLO-NECK JUMPEROR ON BARE FLESH.THE NECKLACE PENDANTAND NECKLINEBeware the necklace that does battlewith the clothing neckline you havechosen; this will end up looking cluttered,fussy <strong>and</strong> indecisive - the two need <strong>to</strong>be separate.As a general rule, delicate jewelleryneeds <strong>to</strong> be against the flesh, whereascostume jewellery can look just as goodagainst clothing.DROP PENDANTA longer pendant will always dis<strong>to</strong>rt thelength of the neckline <strong>and</strong> the upper<strong>to</strong>rso. This style of pendant can make anyplain <strong>to</strong>p look very glamorous. Don’t addit <strong>to</strong> a busy <strong>to</strong>p with lots going on downthe front however.Great - an invaluable <strong>to</strong>ol for workingwith a tall body or a long upper <strong>to</strong>rso.<strong>Good</strong> also for large or square shoulders.Avoid if you are petite or have narrowor sloping shoulders.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


The chokerLarge beadsStrings of chainsLarge pendantTHE CHOKERThis is a great piece of jewellery thatgives slender necks some glamour <strong>and</strong>coverage. It can be worn with a highcollar or just as well with a straplessgown.Avoid if you have a short neck or largeor square shoulders.LARGE BEADSThe larger your body is, the larger youneed your jewellery pieces <strong>to</strong> be. Thismay be stating the obvious but a wellbalanced necklace will make your necklook more slender.STRINGS OF CHAINSThe overall effect here is <strong>to</strong> create anaccessories look with more volume <strong>to</strong>flatter a larger or taller body. Make sureyou balance the size <strong>and</strong> height ofyour body by adding or taking awayindividual chains.LARGE PENDANTA large pendant looks stunning <strong>and</strong> willalways help you <strong>to</strong> make a dramaticimpact. The actual size of the pendantmust be in proportion with your body <strong>to</strong>create the best effect.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


A pointed <strong>to</strong>eA round <strong>to</strong>eStrap across the instepCALVES AND ANKLESIT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS AND EVENFOOTWEAR CAN HELP TOCREATE ELONGATION ORFORESHORTENING. THIS ISPARTICULARLY IMPORTANT IF YOUHAVE THICK ANKLES OR CURVYCALF MUSCLES. CHECK YOUROWN FOOTWEAR CUPBOARD FORSHOES THAT AREUNFLATTERING AND REPLACETHEM WHEN YOU CAN.A POINTED TOEThe pointed <strong>to</strong>e is the style that offersthe best <strong>to</strong>ol <strong>to</strong> create a longer lookingleg especially when worn as a court orsling back style as shown here. For thisreason court style shoes tend be used <strong>to</strong>create drama for evening or formalwear.And when you bring colour in<strong>to</strong> it, youcan exaggerate the length even furtherso replicate the colour of your skirt ortrouser for added length. Never choosethis style <strong>to</strong> match your skin <strong>to</strong>ne,however, as it will make your foot lookenormous!Great for <strong>curvy</strong> calves <strong>and</strong> thick ankles.A ROUND TOEA round <strong>to</strong>e is fashionable from time<strong>to</strong> time <strong>and</strong> when worn as a court styleor slingback style with no extra strapscan look elegant on most legs. This canappear as a casual flat shoe (ballerinapump) or a heel. It will give you good legelongation when worn as a heel.Prioritise a round <strong>to</strong>e if you havelarge feet, as this will immediatelyforeshorten them.STRAP ACROSS THE INSTEPShoes like these can have any sized heel.The appearance of them is practical <strong>and</strong>they make great work shoes. You canbegin <strong>to</strong> see how the leg looks immediatelyshorter. It is that simple. It alsobegins <strong>to</strong> focus the eye on the ankle.Great for larger feet. Avoid if you havethick ankles.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Ankle strapAnkle ties or Gladia<strong>to</strong>r stylesOpen <strong>to</strong>ed strappy shoes The platform The peep <strong>to</strong>eANKLE STRAPThis style begins <strong>to</strong> shorten the leg <strong>and</strong>draw attention <strong>to</strong> the calf, making itseem wider than it is. It also makes thefoot seem larger than it is if the design isflat at the heel.Avoid if you have short legs.Avoid if you have thick ankles or <strong>curvy</strong>calf muscles.ANKLE TIES ORGLADIATOR STYLEAny style of shoe that has strapstravelling up the leg from the shoe cancreate a foreshortening effect on the leg<strong>to</strong> make it look wider <strong>and</strong> shorterOPEN TOED STRAPPY SHOESThese will always be a popular choice<strong>and</strong> can appear as a simple s<strong>and</strong>al styleas illustrated here or as a much moreglamourous evening shoe with a heel. Itlooks frivolous <strong>and</strong> fun so avoid insituations where you want <strong>to</strong> createsome authority like work. You will nodoubt be seeing the effect of thehorizontal lines in shortening the foot,now that you have absorbed so many ofthe <strong>to</strong>ols in this book.Choose thicker straps if you havelarger feet.THE PLATFORMThis style can sometimes appear as asmall built up area of the sole or it canbe a very large <strong>and</strong> chunky feature of theshoe.Choose a platform <strong>to</strong> balance your ankle<strong>and</strong> calf in the knowledge that a thickchunky shoe can make legs look morestreamlined.THE PEEP TOEThis is a universally flattering stylebecause it helps <strong>to</strong> make all feet looksmaller. It also tidies up the <strong>to</strong>es <strong>and</strong>because not everywoman has goodlooking feet allows for the best of bothworlds. It is also very adaptable for bothformal <strong>and</strong> fun looks..<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Low ankle length bootHigh ankle length bootThe shoe bootBOOTSTHERE ARE NOW A HUGE VARIETYOF STYLES. BOOTS ARE NOLONGER JUST USED FORCOLD WEATHER SINCE THECATWALK SAW THE POTENTIAL OFTHEM TO LENGTHEN THELEG AND ADD WARMTH ANDGLAMOUR AT THE SAME TIME.CLEVER SELECTION OF BOOTSCAN FLATTER YOUR LEGS TOO.LOW ANKLE LENGTH BOOTThis style is usually worn with highfashion garments like pencil skirts<strong>and</strong> culottes.HIGH ANKLE LENGTH BOOTSThese boots are perfect for a cleanline under trousers <strong>and</strong> should neverbe worn with skirts or short, croppedtrousers.Under trousers they suit all body shapes.THE SHOE BOOTThe shoe boot is a fashion style that hasbecome popular <strong>and</strong> will foreshortenyour leg if worn with a skirt. Experimentwith matching hosiery <strong>and</strong> skirt <strong>to</strong> get itlooking right. It doeswork very well with trousers that featurethe shoe as a fashion statement.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Fitted knee high bootMid calf bootsKnee high boots with a cuffFITTED KNEE HIGH BOOTThe fi tted boot is a classic style <strong>and</strong> suitsmost legs <strong>and</strong> body shapes. The heel willchange according <strong>to</strong> fashion whims,ranging from thin <strong>to</strong> chunky, but the effec<strong>to</strong>n the body as a whole is justthe same.This will be your most versatile buy <strong>and</strong>can work with a structured skirt, culottes,formal cropped trousers <strong>and</strong> jeans.MID CALF BOOTSOften mid calf boots give an urban <strong>and</strong>practical fi nish, especially if they are fl at,but this calf length works just as wellwhen it appears with a heel <strong>to</strong>o. Wearunder skirts.Boots that cut across the calf at itswidest point will add bulk <strong>to</strong> the leg.KNEE HIGH BOOTSWITH A CUFFThis style of boot in leather or suedecan be worn over slim line jeans <strong>and</strong>trousers or under a skirt, which hassome structure.The cuff works <strong>to</strong> widen the leg <strong>and</strong> soforeshorten it slightly <strong>to</strong>o.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Empire lineShift dress DRESSESDRESSES AND DRESS DESIGNS AREIN AND OUT OF FASHION.SOMETIMES THE NAMES OF THEDRESSES THEMSELVES CAN BECONFUSING. HERE IS A QUICKGUIDE TO ALL THE BASIC SHAPES.REMEMBER NECKLINES, SLEEVEDESIGNS AND HEM LENGTHS AREALL EXTRAS TO CONSIDERWHEN CHOOSING THE RIGHTSHAPE FOR YOU.EMPIRE LINEThis style is very distinct because it isfitted from the shoulder <strong>and</strong> over thebust <strong>to</strong> pull in under the bust at theribcage. As a summer dress withlightweight fabric it appears with agathered <strong>and</strong> flared look. It can also befitted <strong>to</strong> the body <strong>to</strong> make a morecolumn like shape <strong>and</strong> appears as aformal style or in a longer gown.SHIFT DRESSThis is a short dress that has a sixtiesfeel <strong>to</strong> it. It is often in stiffer fabrics likestarched or treated cot<strong>to</strong>n so it doesnot mould <strong>to</strong> the body. Fashion dictateshow it is worn, sometimes over trousers,sometimes as a modern look on its own.Not a particularly flattering shape,however, unless you are model like.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Shirt dressDropped waist dressWrap dressSHIRT DRESSA lovely classic style of dress with acentral fastening through the middle ofthe body. Will always work well in officesettings <strong>and</strong> casual settings depending onyour choice of colour <strong>and</strong> accessories.This is universally flattering style becauseit is gently fitted <strong>to</strong> the body.The vertical line, which runs subtlythrough the centre of the body, willelongate the body.DROPPED WAIST DRESSChanging the proportions of the waist, asthis dress does, will always create alonger leaner line through the centre ofthe body. But placing the waist so muchlower down the body take the eyelinedownwards.Dresses appear as casual jersey styleaffairs or can be very dressy flapper styledesigns. There is also the low neck <strong>and</strong>the low waisted wrap style <strong>to</strong>o.WRAP DRESSThis has become a classic style, wornboth in the office situation because it canlook very ordered <strong>and</strong> authoritative, butalso casual <strong>and</strong> dressy <strong>to</strong>o. Madein a figure hugging fabric like jersey, itis very flattering for most body shapesbecause of the definition it gives <strong>to</strong> theupper <strong>to</strong>rso.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Bias cut dressTunic dressWaisted dressBIAS CUT DRESSAny dress that is cut on the bias hasstretch within the fabric <strong>and</strong> will wraparound the hips gently. This dress is verypared down <strong>and</strong> doesn’t feature anypockets or collar detail because it is solightweight <strong>and</strong> diaphanous. It appearsas a day dress as well as an eveningdress <strong>and</strong> is a very sensual style.TUNIC DRESS.The Tunic dress, like the shift dress, ispretty unforgiving <strong>and</strong> does not moulditself <strong>to</strong> the body’s form. It appears asa catwalk garment that is adapted forthose who like an ‘on trend look.’ It isalways pared down <strong>and</strong> has a strictslightly <strong>and</strong>rogynous look.This makes it good for formal <strong>and</strong>working situations.WAISTED DRESSA classic style of dress that will adapteach season <strong>to</strong> the catwalks trends; it isfitted <strong>to</strong> the upper body <strong>and</strong> then flaresout from the waist. This style draws theeye straight <strong>to</strong> the waist, which isenhanced because the skirt kicks out.More exaggerated shapes haveappeared as cocktail dresses <strong>and</strong> it isoften seen as a strapless shape forspecial occasion wear.Suitable for all heights.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


BLOUSON STYLE DRESS.This is a loose fitting dress that may bestrapless as shown here or it mayhave sleeves (depending on howdesigners have used it for theircollections). The feature is the elasticisedwaist that blouses out around theupper <strong>to</strong>rso. This adds volume <strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>ppart of the body.So, just <strong>to</strong> recap, it’s all about where you draw the eye. Underst<strong>and</strong>inghow <strong>to</strong> use detail on clothes, jewellery, colour, pattern <strong>and</strong> print cangive you that effortless sophistication that no one else can put their fingeron. Take the eye <strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>p third of your body by using any featureI have just mentioned. That way others will read the <strong>to</strong>p part of youwhich creates the illusion of height.• Wear <strong>to</strong>ps with embroidery, beading or pattern at the shoulder,s <strong>and</strong>neckline.• Wear shaped clothing like trousers <strong>and</strong> jackets in one colour.• Add detail <strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>p of your head: hair accessories, sunglassesperched on <strong>to</strong>p of your head or a hairstyle with a high crown allwork well.• Wear a skirt with all the detail at the hemline.• Place brooches <strong>to</strong>o low down the body.• Wear long pendants that take the eye <strong>to</strong> the waist.THE SMOCK DRESSThis (like the <strong>to</strong>p) has a fitted yoke thateases in<strong>to</strong> a gathered effect across thecleavage. It will always add volume <strong>to</strong>this area. It is usually found in casual <strong>and</strong>summer clothes.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


All clothes create subtle horizontal <strong>and</strong> vertical lines. I'm not talkingabout stripy prints but vertical seams, pleats, piping <strong>and</strong> horizontalyokes, waistb<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> hemlines. Lines that run lengthways down yourbody create an illusion of slimness <strong>and</strong> height. Lines that runwidthways across your body create the illusion of width <strong>and</strong>shortening. So, put simply, your ideal scenario would be <strong>to</strong> use subtlelengthening <strong>and</strong> narrowing details at the areas that are widest whenyou want <strong>to</strong> play down your curves. Shirts with vertical stripes orvertical seams, <strong>to</strong>ps with a central vertical panel feature <strong>and</strong> skirtswith vertical features like box pleats, vertical stripes or vertical panelsof colour, will play down your bust <strong>and</strong> hips. You can make the choice,however, about what <strong>and</strong> how you wear it because what I have givenyou in this book are <strong>to</strong>ols not rules!You can make the choice, however, about what <strong>and</strong> how you weareverything because what I have given you in this book are <strong>to</strong>ols not rules!<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


We see these creatures beautifully made up <strong>and</strong> adorned in the mostexquisite designer clothes, pho<strong>to</strong>graphed in the most sophisticatedsettings. It’s possible <strong>to</strong> believe that they really are living that life, feelingfulfilled <strong>and</strong> content. The fact is, most feel just like you <strong>and</strong> I. When theshoot is over they must return <strong>to</strong> their real lives. Yes they have bad days<strong>and</strong> good days; they have the same worries about how <strong>to</strong> pay the bills <strong>and</strong>what they will do next <strong>to</strong> earn money. Relationships <strong>to</strong>o are just ascomplex <strong>and</strong> challenging. Security, honesty <strong>and</strong> respect don’t become anyeasier <strong>to</strong> find just because you model clothes for a living. In short thesewomen have the same struggles as you <strong>and</strong> I with one tiny difference.Every day, at each casting they will hear about all their imperfections.From morning <strong>to</strong> night, clients will tell them what is wrong with the waythey look <strong>and</strong> why they don’t want them for the job. They <strong>to</strong>o will begin <strong>to</strong>see their short neck or thick ankles as an obstruction <strong>to</strong> their happiness.In a recent survey by a <strong>to</strong>p British magazine where 5000 womenwere interviewed, 70% were unhappy with the way their bodies looked.Nearly 50% were on diets <strong>and</strong> many were using laxatives or even fasting.I know <strong>to</strong>o from the letters you write <strong>to</strong> me that many of you feellife would be better if your bodies were slimmer, curvier, more <strong>to</strong>ned,lighter weight etc.Our relationships with ourselves can be very confusing <strong>and</strong> it is easy <strong>to</strong>fantasise when we look at the pictures, since all models appear happyor confident in the pho<strong>to</strong>graphs – that their physical perfection is thekey <strong>to</strong> their happiness. Remember they are being paid <strong>to</strong> smile <strong>and</strong> allthe clothes they are wearing are pinned at the back <strong>to</strong> look as thoughthey actually fit perfectly.Being happy with who you are <strong>and</strong> creating relationships based onhonesty <strong>and</strong> respect is the key <strong>to</strong> your happiness. Clothes will not helpyou do this but, knowing that you have chosen designs <strong>and</strong> shapes <strong>to</strong>help you look your very best, will leave you free <strong>to</strong> concentrate on themore important things in life.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


I often list these points when I am giving presentations. So herethey are for you:1 There is no such thing as a perfect, effortless body. Every grownwoman has cellulite, a round tummy <strong>and</strong> uneven breasts, even models.We just forget <strong>to</strong> remind ourselves of this against the media backdropof post adolescent femininity so provocatively packaged in thoseairbrushed adverts.2 The catwalk is a strange place. Hailing a cab, running for a bus <strong>and</strong>sitting down are all things we do during our day but I have yet <strong>to</strong>see a fully styled model capable of performing these actions safelyon a runway.3 The beautiful woman who earns her living in front of the camera istragically preoccupied with her own minor imperfections since she isjudged daily on her ability <strong>to</strong> portray a rigid feminine ideal. For oneclient her ankles will be <strong>to</strong>o fat or her eyes <strong>to</strong>o close, for another herlegs will be <strong>to</strong>o stubby or her teeth <strong>to</strong>o gappy. She will have beenmade so miserable <strong>to</strong> earn the job that only the thought of theresultant wages brings a fleeting smile <strong>to</strong> her face.4 Of course red carpet film stars wear intricate support underwearthat looks like a flesh coloured sports kit under their thin silk dresses. Ifyou knew you were going <strong>to</strong> be assessed, judged, weighed up,postmortemed, condemned <strong>and</strong> crucified for choosing an unflatteringparty frock by the world’s fashion press, so would you.5 Designers don’t all get <strong>to</strong>gether in a room <strong>and</strong> decide <strong>to</strong> makewomen feel insecure about their bodies. It only looks that way.6 The word ‘Outsize’ should be taken out <strong>and</strong> shot for transgressionsagainst womankind. This is an appalling term, which all by itself hastraumatised generations of <strong>curvy</strong> women. Size 16 is the national Britishaverage size.7 You are not more attractive because you are in pain - high heels, tightclothes <strong>and</strong> hair that looks like it is nailed <strong>to</strong> the scalp may be whatappears <strong>to</strong> work in a fashion pho<strong>to</strong>graph but these images takemoments <strong>to</strong> capture. All models remove their make up, hair accessories<strong>and</strong> other fashion accoutrements immediately after the shoot<strong>and</strong> step in<strong>to</strong> dog-eared trainers <strong>and</strong> comfy jeans. That’s what I wear <strong>to</strong>write pieces like this <strong>and</strong>, despite the latest trend information in all yourfavourite magazines, so can you, whenever you want!<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Flared skirtSKIRT SHAPESSKIRTS ARE QUITE SIMPLY THEEASIEST GARMENTS OF ALL TOWEAR. UNLIKE TROUSERS THATHAVE A COMPLICATED FITTINGROUND THE CROTCH AND HIPS,THEY USE FEWER MEASUREMENTSAND CAN FIT THE BODY MOREEASILY. THE TWO MAINCONSIDERATIONS ARE WAISTLINE -DOES IT FIT NEATLY AROUND YOURMIDDLE AND HEMLINE? IS ITSITTING AT THE RIGHT LENGTHFOR YOUR LEGS? ALL ARE DRAWNAS KNEE LENGTH BUT SHOULDBE ADAPTED TO SUIT YOUR OWNLEG SHAPE AND HEIGHT ASSHOWN FURTHER ON. REMEMBERALSO THAT NONE ARE SHOWNWITH PATTERNS OR COLOURS.APPLY THE INDIVIDUALINFORMATION YOU HAVE IN THISBOOK ON COLOUR AND PATTERNTO GET THE MOSTFLATTERING LOOK.FLARED SKIRTThe interpretation of the fl are will bedown <strong>to</strong> you. Some can be noticeablyfl ared <strong>and</strong> some more subtlebordering on an A-line style skirt. Thiswill be your most versatile choice of skirtsimply because it hides any hip orbot<strong>to</strong>m shape <strong>and</strong> focuses on the waist.With the new styling <strong>to</strong>ols you now have, I hope you can begin <strong>to</strong>embody <strong>and</strong> embrace the style that you want. Changing your imagecan take a little time so don’t be <strong>to</strong>o hard on yourself if you can’timmediately switch your wardrobe over. But recognising that everyclothing purchase you make from now on is a step <strong>to</strong>wards the ‘new<strong>and</strong> stylishly attired you,’ is the fi rst step.I hope that I have helped you <strong>to</strong> underst<strong>and</strong> how your image is aspecial relationship you can have with yourself for years <strong>to</strong> come.Don’t let the fashion industry spoil that relationship by making you feelconfused about what suits you. By all means, keep yourself up <strong>to</strong> dateeffortlessly by reading through our trends reports.There’s high street trends posted seasonally on the site but remember<strong>to</strong> apply all your styling <strong>to</strong>ols <strong>to</strong> the looks you see <strong>to</strong> decide which bitsof these fashionable looks are right for you. And don’t forget <strong>to</strong> useour shopping mall so you can track down the clothes you want – rememberthere are plenty of specialist fi t companies as well as all yourfavourite labels. These are entered under your own body shape.Check out our online recommendations <strong>and</strong> take not of the capsulewardrobe reccomendations we make each season in our monthlynewsletter.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Pencil skirt Yoke <strong>and</strong> flared skirt H<strong>and</strong>kerchief hemlinePENCIL SKIRTThis classic style elongates legs becauseit is tapered at the back; there needs <strong>to</strong>be a small vent <strong>to</strong> allow you <strong>to</strong> take largeenough steps <strong>to</strong> walk. It will work bestwith a heel <strong>to</strong> give the feet atapered look.YOKE AND FLARED SKIRT.This style of skirt is fitted <strong>to</strong> the hips <strong>and</strong>then flared from the hips. It has the appearanceof lowering the waist.HANDKERCHIEF HEMLINEThis skirt will always look edgy or quirkybecause of the uneven effect around thehemline. For it <strong>to</strong> work well the focusmust be on the legs (<strong>and</strong> shoes orboots). It therefore takes the eyeline <strong>to</strong>the lower half of the body. A great style<strong>to</strong> reduce fullness in ankles <strong>and</strong> calves <strong>to</strong>create more shape <strong>and</strong> femininity.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Circle skirtCulottes’ style skirtBias cut skirtCIRCLE SKIRTThis is a shape that is dictated by fashion<strong>and</strong> will appear from time <strong>to</strong> time. Theinterpretation of the volume of the circlewill be up <strong>to</strong> you - it often has theappearance of a puffed look. An extremeversion will always look more like acatwalk look, whereas a morecommercial version will be subtle <strong>and</strong>more flattering.CULOTTES’ STYLE SKIRTThis style of skirt will often appear as asmart tailored style <strong>and</strong> is verycomfortable <strong>and</strong> flattering <strong>to</strong> wear whenteamed with a well-cut jacket or pareddown shirt or <strong>to</strong>p.BIAS CUT SKIRTThis style of skirt looks sensual <strong>and</strong>feminine.It can appear as a summer skirt or anevening style <strong>and</strong>, because it is cut on thebias of the fabric, will have plenty of give.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Tiered skirtVertical ruffled skirtWrap front skirtTIERED SKIRTA tiered skirt has a gypsy feel <strong>to</strong> it <strong>and</strong> isoften seen as a versatile summer orcasual wear look. I’ve seen it look justas good in cord or denim <strong>to</strong>o. Becauseof the horizontal lines it has a wideningeffect.VERTICAL RUFFLED SKIRTThis style of skirt has the same feminineappeal as the tiered skirt but a muchlonger line <strong>and</strong> therefore creates a morestreamlining <strong>and</strong> lengthening effect.WRAP FRONT SKIRTThis style of skirt has a classic appeal <strong>and</strong>can appear as a tailored skirt with apareddown feel; or in a softer fabric willwork well as a more casual look. It is usuallyfitted <strong>to</strong> the body around the waist<strong>and</strong> hips <strong>and</strong> has a straight silhouettefrom the hips <strong>to</strong> the knees. Because ofthe vertical line through the body it willalways make the legs appear longer.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Fly front, straight legFlared trousersPleated front trousersTROUSERSTROUSERS ARE WONDERFULGARMENTS THAT JUST ADAPTTHEMSELVES TO WHATEVER THETREND OR THE OCCASION RE-QUIRES. IT IS FOR THAT REASONTHAT WE SEE A LARGE VARIETYOF SHAPES. A WELL CUT ANDFITTED PAIR OF TROUSERS CANBE THE BEST ADDITION TO YOURWARDROBE BUT A PAIR THAT DOESNOT FLATTER YOUR SHAPE WILLSABOTAGE YOUR STYLE MORE EF-FECTIVELY THAN ANY OTHER ITEM.FIT IS ALSO CRUCIAL BECAUSE,WARPED OR BAGGY CROTCHESARE NOT ONLY UNSTYLISH, THEYDRAW THE EYE RIGHT TO THEPOINT. FINALLY A WORD ABOUTHEMLINES. HEELS NEED MORELENGTH THAN FLATS TO GIVE ALONGER LEG. NEVER WEAR THESAME PAIR OF TROUSERS WITHYOUR FLATS AND HEELS, JUSTHAVE MORE THAN ONE PAIR OFTROUSERS IF YOU LIKE TOALTERNATE BETWEEN HEELS.FLY FRONT, STRAIGHT LEGThis style of trouser is copied from theItalian cut of mans trouser <strong>and</strong> is masculinein feel with a straight leg. It will oftenhave a lower waistb<strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong>o just like themen’s version.FLARED TROUSERSThis design of trouser is the mostfl attering for a woman’s body becauseit is cut <strong>to</strong> fl atter curves, the wide fl aredhem line will always balance <strong>curvy</strong> thighs<strong>and</strong> add volume <strong>to</strong> slender ones. Makesure you spend time getting the fi t right.This style can disguise the shape of legs<strong>and</strong> thighs with excellent results.PLEATED FRONT TROUSERSThis style can look mannish <strong>and</strong>shapeless unless worn with care. Thearea round the tummy is cut <strong>to</strong> givespace around the tummy area <strong>and</strong>pocket area <strong>and</strong> give a bit of an AnnieHall effect when worn with other loosefi tting clothing.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Tapered leg trouserHareem pantsBootleg cut trouserTAPERED LEG TROUSERSThis style of trouser fits the legs, thighs<strong>and</strong> bot<strong>to</strong>m very closely. It rarely works(unless you have model proportions)without a cleverly styled longerlength <strong>to</strong>p.HAREEM PANTS.This style enjoys popularity from time <strong>to</strong>time because designers like <strong>to</strong> ring thechanges. It is a soft voluminous shapethat disguises the appearance of thighs<strong>and</strong> bot<strong>to</strong>m whatever your shape. Afitted waist is a must <strong>to</strong> create a flatteringshape at the tummy. Hems are eithercuffed or gathered anchoring the fabricround the leg, however, the length mayvary from below knee <strong>to</strong> ankle but willalways place the focus on footwear.It is worth experimenting with cut <strong>and</strong>shape here because this garment can beextreme with a dropped crotch <strong>and</strong>acres of fabric or quite subtle, taking theform of a pair of soft cuffed slouch pants.It is important <strong>to</strong> note though that witha baggy lower half your <strong>to</strong>p must be fitted<strong>to</strong> create definition.BOOTLEG CUT TROUSERThis is a subtly flattering style that iswider at the bot<strong>to</strong>m of the leg than the<strong>to</strong>p. It will be fitted more closely <strong>to</strong> thethigh than the flared trousers <strong>and</strong> is agood general all rounder for any shapewhen styled with the right <strong>to</strong>p.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Palazzo pants Knee length shorts Capri pants Cropped trousersPALAZZO PANTThis is a wide loose fi tting style oftrouser that usually appears free of <strong>to</strong>omuch detail in linen, cot<strong>to</strong>n or otherlightweight fabrics - anything heavier <strong>and</strong>it would look like you have tree trunklegs. Because of the width of this designit will create a foreshortening.KNEE LENGTH SHORTSShorts have enjoyed a great deal ofpopularity as a formal item teamed withfeminine footwear. <strong>How</strong>ever, unlike theskirt of the same length (which is moreforgiving), the tailored short is allabout the legs.Be very aware of your choice of hosiery<strong>and</strong> shoes <strong>to</strong> make this a stylishstatement.CAPRI PANTS.This style is fi tted <strong>to</strong> the leg <strong>and</strong> croppedjust above the calf. It will be free of <strong>to</strong>omuch detail as it needs <strong>to</strong> hug the body;pockets for instance will be tiny.CROPPED TROUSERSThis is a very fl attering cut with a classychoice of footwear <strong>and</strong> works well informal situations <strong>to</strong> show that you have astylish confi dence. The hemline shouldbe level with the lower calf not thewidest part. Shop around for the rightfi t for you.NB If you choose a boot make sure it ishigher up the leg than the hem of thetrouser so that the line is smooth. Neverwear the boot slightly lower than thehemline - it’s very very messy.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Above the kneeOn the knee SKIRT LENGTHTHE LENGTH OF THE SKIRT YOUCHOOSE WILL WORK WITH ALLYOUR TOPS TO CREATE THE RIGHTBALANCE FOR YOUR BODY. ONCEYOU HAVE THE LENGTHS THATFLATTER YOUR SHAPE FIXED INYOUR HEAD USE THEM AS A GUIDERATHER THAN A RULE BECAUSETHE DESIGN AND WIDTH OF THESKIRT WILL IMPACT ON THEFINISHED RESULT TOO. IT GOESWITH OUT SAYING THAT THEREARE LOTS OF HIGHER SKIRTLENGTHS, WHICH ARE PERFECTFOR TEENS, AND THOSEMODEL-LIKE PINS BUT IN THISSECTION I AM DISCUSSING THECLASSIC LENGTHS WE MOSTOFTEN HAVE IN OUR WARDROBES.ABOVE THE KNEEA straight or pencil skirt will normallyhave an above the knee option so if youare tempted by this length ask yourself,can your knees st<strong>and</strong> up <strong>to</strong> it?ON THE KNEEOn the knee hem length looks modern<strong>and</strong> chic. The skirt may be cut a littlewider <strong>to</strong> give a fl attering loose fi t.This hem length will draw attention <strong>to</strong>the shape of your calves.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


Ankle length Below the kneeMid calfANKLE LENGTHThis length cuts across a much narrowerpart of the leg <strong>and</strong> so is a natural choice<strong>to</strong> minimise <strong>curvy</strong> calves or legs.BELOW THE KNEEThis is the easiest length <strong>to</strong> wear for allbody shapes <strong>and</strong> can flatter slender <strong>and</strong><strong>curvy</strong> legs alike.This hemline length focuses less on theshape of your calves <strong>and</strong> is therefore lessattention seeking.MID CALFThis is an interesting length; notice howthe hemline cuts across the widest par<strong>to</strong>f the calf - accentuating the width ofthe leg.It can make slender legs look wider <strong>and</strong>by the same <strong>to</strong>ken <strong>curvy</strong> legs will lookwider <strong>to</strong>o.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franlin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


THE TUNIC AND LEGGINGS.Another way <strong>to</strong> wear a higher hemline is by adding leggings <strong>to</strong> thetunic shape. The leggings provide a thick coverage <strong>and</strong> arefar less attention seeking than bare legs or tights. Flat shoes also makeit practical but heels are also a good choice <strong>to</strong> elongate the leg for ayounger look.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>


I’ve enjoyed working with you <strong>and</strong> I’m excited <strong>to</strong> think that as a resul<strong>to</strong>f this book you are on your way <strong>to</strong> a life long enjoyment of clothes,fashion <strong>and</strong> your body. I want you <strong>to</strong> enjoy your body <strong>and</strong> celebrate whoyou are. The tips above will all help you <strong>to</strong> create a stylish sophisticatedexterior but, as we all know, true gorgeousness lives insideP.S. We hope you have enjoyed your e-book <strong>and</strong> find the informationuseful. We would welcome your feedback on either your e-book or thewebsite, <strong>to</strong> help us further improve our service <strong>to</strong> our readers. Pleasebe assured we will not use your name or comments on our sitewithout your permission.Please e-mail us now.Thanks!HAVE YOU FOUND THIS BOOK USEFUL? WOULD YOU LIKE MOREINFORMATION ABOUT DRESSING WELL AND STYLING CREATIVELY IF YOUARE OVER 40? I HAVE WRITTEN ANOTHER E-BOOK. “AGELESS STYLE” ISAIMED AT YOU WITH EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUTLOOKING GOOD AT 40, 50 AND BEYOND.P.S DON’T FORGET TO SUBSCRIBE TO MY NEWSLETTER FORRECOMMENDATIONS ON WHICH GARMENTS TO BUY AND WHY AS WELLAS MUCH MORE. SUBSCRIBE NOW AT WWW.HOWTOLOOKGOOD.COM.AND DO CHECK MY BLOG WHERE I SHOW YOU MY OWN STYLESOLUTIONS AND NEW BUYS: WWW.HOWTOLOOKGOOD.COM/BLOG© 2007 how<strong>to</strong>lookgood.com, a product of Brilliant Productions Ltd. Allrights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission isprohibited.<strong>Caryn</strong> Franklin’s <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Look</strong> <strong>Good</strong>

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