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Restoration of an Eddystone S.750 - The section you are trying to ...

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(250kohm log pot), this time recovered from a defunct radio chassis <strong>an</strong>d cle<strong>an</strong>ed using‘De-oxit’. <strong>The</strong> RF gain pot looked original <strong>an</strong>d tested ok after cle<strong>an</strong>ing, <strong>an</strong>d all theswitches checked ok. <strong>The</strong> BFO variable capaci<strong>to</strong>r bushings were cle<strong>an</strong>ed with ‘De-oxit’.- <strong>The</strong>n I re-attached the front p<strong>an</strong>el <strong>to</strong> the chassis. This is easier said th<strong>an</strong> done, as gettingall the switches <strong>an</strong>d other controls in<strong>to</strong> the correct holes at the same time takes somedoing! Re-attach by reversing the disassembly routine, inserting the four centre boltsattaching the coilbox <strong>an</strong>d then the four bolts attaching the chrome h<strong>an</strong>dles, followed bythe spacers between the lower side chassis members<strong>an</strong>d the ‘internal h<strong>an</strong>dles’.- I cle<strong>an</strong>ed the main tuning capaci<strong>to</strong>r contact ‘fingers’using 'De-Oxit' on the ro<strong>to</strong>r contacts <strong>an</strong>d re-packed theball bearings with moly grease. Re-assembled the ratioarm (pho<strong>to</strong> 21), making two new retaining springs fromjunk box parts <strong>an</strong>d applied a little moly grease <strong>to</strong> thesliding surface <strong>of</strong> the cr<strong>an</strong>k arm.- Next, I re-fitted each <strong>of</strong> the control retaining nuts,taking c<strong>are</strong> not <strong>to</strong> gouge the fingerplate. I used a smallhome-made ‘washer’ <strong>to</strong> do this with a regular pair <strong>of</strong>pliers (pho<strong>to</strong> 8), but I believe that a purpose-made <strong>to</strong>olc<strong>an</strong> be obtained (or made) for the round switch nuts, asc<strong>an</strong> a large hex ‘nut runner’ for the pots <strong>an</strong>d BFOcapaci<strong>to</strong>r nuts – though I do not possess either. <strong>The</strong>protective washer c<strong>an</strong> be made out <strong>of</strong> paper (as shown)or plastic – a good choice is the thin, ‘non-stick’ <strong>an</strong>ddurable Teflon sheet sold for lining baking trays (myXYL is still wondering why ‘mice’ app<strong>are</strong>ntly chewedon it)… replaced the knobs <strong>an</strong>d the set was ready for a few basic power-on checks.21- With all valves still removed, I applied power <strong>to</strong> the set, slowly increasing <strong>to</strong> 117vthrough a variac. Checked the tr<strong>an</strong>sformer secondary voltages - all good – phew!- Time <strong>to</strong> find out if the set will work…Electronic Testing <strong>an</strong>d Repairs- Cle<strong>an</strong>ed up each <strong>of</strong> the valve sockets in the set, including the two octal sockets on therear, marked as ‘Vibra<strong>to</strong>r A/S-Meter’ <strong>an</strong>d ‘Vibra<strong>to</strong>r B’ on my set, using 'De-Oxit'.- Resist<strong>an</strong>ce checks on the psu filter capaci<strong>to</strong>rs (C81 <strong>an</strong>d C83) indicated almost shortcircuit,as did C60 (1 st AF <strong>an</strong>ode decoupler). I decided <strong>to</strong> try <strong>to</strong> re-form these rather th<strong>an</strong>install replacements (for authenticity) as I had for my S.740. <strong>The</strong> capaci<strong>to</strong>rs were reformedover a day by slowly increasing voltage from the variac, moni<strong>to</strong>ring the HTcurrent draw (all valves still removed except the 5Z4 rectifier) - increasing the voltage in12

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