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Restoration of an Eddystone S.750 - The section you are trying to ...

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small pieces <strong>of</strong> masking tape (pho<strong>to</strong> 11). C<strong>are</strong>ful inspection <strong>of</strong> the gearbox revealed thatnothing was binding or blocking movement <strong>of</strong> the gears <strong>an</strong>d that the stiffness was due <strong>to</strong>gummed-up bearings <strong>an</strong>d teeth (age-solidified 3-in-One oil I would say) <strong>an</strong>d, apart fromsome wear on the brass gears, the only damage noted was that a <strong>to</strong>oth on each <strong>of</strong> thespool pulley gears was damaged (pho<strong>to</strong> 12).- Removed the spring-loaded idler (cord tension) pulley by loosening the pivot screwfixing it <strong>to</strong> the front p<strong>an</strong>el casting, loosened the three screws holding the gearbox <strong>to</strong> thefront p<strong>an</strong>el casting, tipped it forwards <strong>an</strong>d upwards slightly <strong>an</strong>d then eased the drive cordaway from the upper two idler pulleys. <strong>The</strong> gearbox was then removed with the dial cordintact (pho<strong>to</strong> 11).11- Removed the dial plate (four screws) <strong>an</strong>dthe dial glass (four screws). Pulled thetuning knob spindle out <strong>of</strong> its bushing.12- Removed the upper idler pulleys <strong>an</strong>d rearpointer guide bar by removing their screwsfrom the front p<strong>an</strong>el casting. <strong>The</strong> frontguide bar is retained by the rear barbrackets, but sits in a red masticcompound. Removed the all-import<strong>an</strong>t7

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