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Cultural<strong>treasures</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>nepal</strong>with special focus on Kathmandu Valley


Demon dancers, Indra JatraThe information contained in this book has been outsourcedfrom an expert writer while every effort has been made toensure accuracy and reliability.However, in case <strong>of</strong> lapses and discrepancies, revisionsand updates would be subsequently carried out in theforthcoming issues.2009 Edition© NTBCopy Right Images: Thomas KellyGyanin Rai (Page 43 top left)


HISTORY &CULtUrE


EthNic GroUPs &CoNcENtrAtioN


Potters square, BhaktapurThe Newars are well-known for their high level<strong>of</strong> craftsmanship, learning and trade. Theyhave their own language, script and literature,and take pride in a legacy <strong>of</strong> culturaltraditions dating back to ancient times. TheNewars have pioneered what we can call anurbanised culture. It is the rich Newar culturethat has given Kathmandu its identity asthe cultural capital <strong>of</strong> the country. While theNewars as original dwellers <strong>of</strong> the valley havecontributed abundantly to the creation anddevelopment <strong>of</strong> Nepalese culture, differentcommunities and ethnic groups from the highHimalayas down to the southern Terai haveadded equally in enriching it.


Traditionally, the Brahmins perform religiousrites and rituals in the society and they arescattered throughout the country. Unlike theBrahmins, the Chhetris and Thakuris have beentraditionally portrayed as the warrior classand political administrators. By virtue <strong>of</strong> theirpredominant status and position in the country’spower hierarchy, they once owned large tracts <strong>of</strong>land. Their language Nepali is the lingua franca<strong>of</strong> the country.Numerous ethnic groups inhabit the mid-hills<strong>of</strong> the country. We find the Magars and Gurungsin the west, Tamangs and Newars in the centralmid-hills, and Rais, Sunuwars and Limbus in theeast <strong>of</strong> the country. These ethnic groups, exceptfor the Newars, are known as the martial (fighter)race. These ethnic groups comprise the elitefighting force in the country’s armed forces. Nowonder, the Nepalese youths serving in the BritishPaddy plantation


and Indian armies are mostly sourced from theseethnic groups. They also engage in farming.In the Himalayan region far north live theSherpa, Dolpo-pa, Baragaonli, Manangi and Lopaethnic groups. Among them, the Sherpas haveearned for themselves a reputation in the worldas skilled mountaineers at high altitude. Thelargest Sherpa settlement lies in Solu Khumbuat the foothills <strong>of</strong> Mt. Sagarmatha (Everest).These ethnic groups <strong>of</strong> the Himalayan north earntheir living working as porters and guides formountaineering expeditions, as farmers and asyak and sheep herders. They share linguistic andcultural affinity with the Tibetans in the north.They are also generally referred to as ‘Bhote’.The Terai plains in the south bordering India havedense settlements <strong>of</strong> the indigenous Tharus, Darais,Khumals, Danuwars, Dhimals, Rajbamsis, Sattarsand Majhis. Most <strong>of</strong> them have their own dialect.The Tharus are the indigenous inhabitants <strong>of</strong>the Terai and are spread all over the region fromeast to west. Majority <strong>of</strong> the people dwelling ineastern and mid-Terai speak Maithili and Bhojpuri,while Avadhi is widely spoken in western Terai.Due to the proximity and easy access, they sharecultural affinity and matrimonial relations with theneighbouring states <strong>of</strong> India.


Religions, Customsand Religious SymbolsHinduism is the main religion <strong>of</strong>the Nepalese people. The trinity<strong>of</strong> Hinduism - Brahma, Vishnuand Shiva - and the pantheon<strong>of</strong> numerous other Hindu godsand goddesses are devotedlyworshipped in Nepal.Nepal is a secular country. However, Hinduism is the mainreligion <strong>of</strong> the Nepalese people. The trinity <strong>of</strong> Hinduism -Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva - and the pantheon <strong>of</strong> numerous otherHindu gods and goddesses are devotedly worshipped in Nepal.The female consorts <strong>of</strong> these gods are equally venerated hereas the manifestation <strong>of</strong> ‘Shakti’ (power or cosmic energy). Thegoddesses are worshipped in different forms, such as Nav Durgas(nine Durgas), Asta Matrikas (eight mother goddesses) and SaptaMatrikas (seven mother goddesses).Buddhism is an equally important religion in Nepal.Mahayana Buddhism and Vajrayana Buddhism - acombination <strong>of</strong> Hindu and Buddhist religious faithsinfluenced by Tantric cult - have been followed particularlyin the Kathmandu Valley since medieval times. In the highHimalayan region, Tibetan Buddhism, or Lamaism, and otherforms <strong>of</strong> Nature worship are also practised by the people.Buddha Purnima, Boudha NathSiddhartha Gautama, later known to the world as Lord Buddha,was born in Lumbini in mid-southwestern Nepal in 6th centuryB.C. There are more than two dozen sites around this area whichare closely related to the life <strong>of</strong> the Buddha and Buddhism.In the course <strong>of</strong> history, Buddhism as a religion spread andbecame popular in the high mountain regions, mid-hills and inthe Kathmandu Valley. Buddhism has pr<strong>of</strong>oundly influenced theNepalese way <strong>of</strong> life, culture, arts and architecture.CustomsThe Nepalese way <strong>of</strong> life is regulated by religion through theperformance <strong>of</strong> various rites and rituals, seeking God’s grace forthe well-being <strong>of</strong> the family, prosperity and mokshya (salvation)for the self. Religious custom guides every step <strong>of</strong> a Nepalesefrom birth to death and beyond. Every important event in the life<strong>of</strong> a person from cradle to pyre is marked by performing certainreligious rites and functions. These rituals may generally differfrom community to community. A new-born child undergoesChhaithi Nwaran, the naming ceremony (6th day <strong>of</strong> birth), andAnnaprasan, the rice-feeding ceremony (5th or 6th month <strong>of</strong>13


irth depending on whether the baby is a girl orboy). Then we have the ‘coming <strong>of</strong> age’ ceremony(gufa rakhney for Newar girls at pre-puberty stage orgifting <strong>of</strong> Guneu-cholo - a set <strong>of</strong> adult female dresses.For the boys, there is the Bratabandha or Upanayanaceremony, performed before he reaches teenage whenhis head is shaved and given the ceremonial loin-clothand sacred thread to wear. Thereafter, obviously, themost important event is marriage, which contains veryelaborate rituals that go on for more than a day. Onthe death <strong>of</strong> a person, there are very solemn rites tobe performed by the family.Religious SymbolsNepalese art is highly influenced by symbolism. Theuse and development <strong>of</strong> symbols in Nepalese artemerged during the medieval period when Vajrayanaand Tantricism flourished in the valley. Symbols havedeep rooted meaning. Above the hemispherical whitedome <strong>of</strong> the Swayambhu Maha Chaitya, on each <strong>of</strong> thefour sides <strong>of</strong> the square, facing the four directions, area pair <strong>of</strong> half-closed gentle eyes and a nose depictedas a question mark. Learned scholars have interpretedthe semi-closed eyes as the all-seeing eyes <strong>of</strong> theBuddha looking in all the four directions so that noone can hide any wrong doing from Him. And the nosein the form <strong>of</strong> a question mark symbolises Dharma,or Virtue, as the one path which leads all people toSukhaavati, or the Ocean <strong>of</strong> Happiness.Both Hinduism and Buddhism take recourse tosymbolic animals and birds to represent their deities.For example, the Garuda (mythical bird) representsLord Vishnu while the rat is the carrier (baahan) <strong>of</strong>Lord Ganesh. Erotic carvings portraying the male andfemale in various sexual postures are a common sightin a number <strong>of</strong> Hindu temples and Buddhist vihars, ormonasteries. Such erotic display in the temples andmonasteries is very intriguing, but it is symbolic andcarries much meaning, which only those knowledgeablein Tantricism can truthfully interpret. The Hindu godsand goddesses are known by their respective attributes,or divine weapons - again symbols with deep spiritualmeaning. Among the Hindu trinity, Brahma the Creatorhas four heads looking in four directions to show thathe sees in all directions, and hence is all-knowing. Hecarries a kalash - a water vessel - in one hand, which isa symbol <strong>of</strong> the Earth. The other trinity, Vishnu, holdsa conch, a discus, a mace and a lotus in his four hands.The conch is the symbol <strong>of</strong> the mind and cohesivetendency; the discus signifies primeval knowledgeand the notion <strong>of</strong> individual existence; the mace isthe sign <strong>of</strong> causal power <strong>of</strong> illusion from which theuniverse arises and the tendency towards dispersionand liberation; while the lotus is the symbol <strong>of</strong> the fiveelements denoting the origin <strong>of</strong> existence. The thirdtrinity, Shiva, or Maheshwar or Mahadev, has threegleaming eyes representing the sun, moon and fire.These three sources <strong>of</strong> light illuminate the earth, spaceand sky. It is with these three eyes that Shiva sees thepast, present and future.Similarly, Mahayana Buddhism has numerous symbols.The Vajra, or thunderbolt, symbolises the inseparableunity <strong>of</strong> wisdom and skillful means. It destroys allkinds <strong>of</strong> ignorance and is itself indestructible. Swastika,14


or fylfot, a kind <strong>of</strong> mystical cross, is an ancientauspicious symbol common to the Hindu, Buddhistand Jain religions. It is a symbol <strong>of</strong> good fortune. InBuddhism, it is regarded as one <strong>of</strong> the 65 divine marks(lakshan) <strong>of</strong> a great-soul (mahapurusha). The swastikasymbol is found on the imprint <strong>of</strong> the Buddha’s foot.It also appears on the chest or lotus throne <strong>of</strong> someBuddha images. Hindus and Buddhists alike believeand have great faith in the eight auspicious symbols:they are the (a) Srivatsa, or endless knot or chain,(b) Dhwaja, or the victory banner, (c) Kalash, or thevase containing the nectar <strong>of</strong> immortality, (d) Chamar,or fan which drives away diseases, (e) Matsya, or apair <strong>of</strong> golden fish, symbolising the unity <strong>of</strong> wisdomand compassion, (f) Chhatra, or the precious parasolthat symbolises royalty and which protects onefrom evil influences, (g) Sankha, or conch, thatsymbolises awareness and (h) Padma, or the lotus,that symbolises purity <strong>of</strong> the body. It is believed thatif the Sankha (conch) is blown with skill, the vibrantresonance can drive away evil spirits and destroyharmful germs and microbes.There are many spiritual symbols in Nepalese cultureused in different rites and rituals. Shree Yantrais one such very popular symbol. The Yantra is amystical, systematic, geometrical (triangular) diagramdepicting, in a synthetic form, the basic energies <strong>of</strong>the natural world which are represented by the deities.It represents the Universal Goddess. It symbolisesthe union <strong>of</strong> Shiva with Shakti (or Parvati). It is themain Yantra <strong>of</strong> Tulaja Bhavani and the Living GoddessKumari. Each deity has its own Yantra (design) inwhich it dwells during the ritual use <strong>of</strong> the Yantra.Yantras are frequently used by Saktas. Shatakon, orthe six-pointed star, is composed <strong>of</strong> two trianglesinverted and juxtaposed against one another. Thetriangle is an important yantra <strong>of</strong> manifold meanings.An upward-pointing triangle symbolises Agni, orfire, and the linga, or phallus, hence, also the maleprinciple <strong>of</strong> the cosmos, as well as Shiva and Shaivism.A downward-pointing triangle symbolises the yoni, orvagina, and the female principle <strong>of</strong> the cosmos, hencealso Shakti, (also Vishnu in the female form as Mohini)and Vaishnavism. Therefore, it also symbolises thesynchronisation between Shaivism and Vaishnavism.In Buddhism, a triangle pointing upwards symbolisesthe Tri-ratna, or three jewels - Buddha, Dharmaand Sangha. In Nepal, Shatakon also representsSaraswati, the goddess <strong>of</strong> learning. Every Buddhistshrine, temple, stupa and monument has Mani prayerwheels. On the prayer wheels, ‘Om Mani Padme Hum’,the mantra <strong>of</strong> Chenrezig, the Protector, is embossed,etched or painted on the outside. A Mani wheel, or aprayer wheel, can be big or small, free standing or ina row with many others along the walls. Its literarymeaning is ‘Hail to the Jewel (or Buddha) in theLotus’. There are numerous other symbols in Nepaleseart. One <strong>of</strong> the most common is the tika, or red mark,on the forehead as a symbol <strong>of</strong> good luck, devotionto the deities and blessing <strong>of</strong> the seniors and elderlypersons. It has special meaning to the womenfolk. Forthem, it signifies a happy married life. Hindu widowsrefrain from putting on a red tika, wearing red banglesand putting on red saris.15


HOLY sitEs &PiLgriMAgE


Holy Sites andPilgrimage DestinationsTo the Hindus, the most famousand most venerated is the temple<strong>of</strong> Lord Pashupatinath, situatedon the banks <strong>of</strong> the holy riverBagmati in Kathmandu. It isamong the most revered shrinesfor Hindus all over the world.Pashupati Temple by nightPashupatinath TempleNepal has numerous pilgrimage sites, sacred to bothHindus and Buddhists. To the Hindus, the mostfamous and most venerated is the temple <strong>of</strong> LordPashupatinath, situated on the banks <strong>of</strong> the holy riverBagmati in Kathmandu. It is among the most reveredshrines for Hindus all over the world. The main temple,which stands in the middle <strong>of</strong> a courtyard, is twotiered,built upon a square plinth, and is 23.6 metreshigh. The four large gates <strong>of</strong> the temple are silver andgilt-plated and richly carved with images <strong>of</strong> deities.The two copper ro<strong>of</strong>s are supported by numerous strutsadorned with beautifully carved images <strong>of</strong> variousHindu gods and goddesses. The sacro sanctum, orthe main idol <strong>of</strong> “Mukhalingam”, is one metre highand has faces carved in four directions. The originaltemple is said to have been built at the beginning <strong>of</strong>the Christian era. It is said to have undergone severalreconstructions over the ages to what stands today.17


Changu Narayan TempleThe site <strong>of</strong> the Changu Narayan is revered assacred location dating back to the Lichchhaviperiod and is believed to be one <strong>of</strong> the valley’searliest settlement site. It is situated on asmall hillock northwest <strong>of</strong> Bhaktapur. Reveredby both Hindus and Buddhists, Changu Narayanhas been among the most venerated sites forworshippers <strong>of</strong> Lord Vishnu since early times,and hence it is a very important pilgrimagesite for the Vaishnavas. The main pagoda- styletemple is located at the centre <strong>of</strong> a largecourtyard, which is surrounded by rest housesknown as Chaughera Sattal. In addition to themain two-storey temple, the Changu Narayanmonument zone includes several smaller shrines,including the temple <strong>of</strong> Chhinna Mastaa, theheadless goddess. The site is renowned for themasterpieces in stone and metal sculpture datingback to different periods <strong>of</strong> history. Examples<strong>of</strong> such masterpieces in stone sculptures arethe Vishwarup <strong>of</strong> Lord Vishnu circa 8th century,Vishnu Vikranta or Lord Vishnu’s form circa 8thcentury, and the fearful figure <strong>of</strong> NarasimhaAvatar, or half lion-half human figure <strong>of</strong> LordVishnu, which dates back to the 9th century.Changunarayan Temple


Swayambhu Maha ChaityaKathmandu Valley has also some very importantand highly venerated Buddhist sites. As oneenters the valley, the first sight to catch thevisitor’s eye is the hemispherical white dome(stupa) <strong>of</strong> the Swayambhu Maha Chaitya perchedmajestically atop a hill on the western fringe<strong>of</strong> the Kathmandu Valley. The stupa symbolisesthe body <strong>of</strong> the Buddha, which is nothing otherthan the cosmos itself. The Swayambhu MahaChaitya with the semi-closed eyes <strong>of</strong> the Buddhaoverlooking the valley from all four directionsis the most prominent monument and landmark<strong>of</strong> the valley. The historical origins <strong>of</strong> this greatstupa are obscure, but it is believed to havebeen built during the Lichchhavi period. Themain stupa is a huge white dome in the form<strong>of</strong> a flattened hemisphere. Around the circularbase - the garva (womb) - are installed the fivecelestial Buddhas with their respective femalecounterparts. In the vicinity are numerousmonuments. These include the twin Shikharastyletemples <strong>of</strong> Pratappur and Anantapur builtby King Pratap Malla; Basupur, with the image <strong>of</strong>Goddess Basundhara, the bestower <strong>of</strong> prosperity;Vayupur, the god <strong>of</strong> wind; and the artistic goldentemple <strong>of</strong> the Goddess Ajima or Harati, theprotector <strong>of</strong> children.The Swayambhu Maha Chaitya is a veritabletreasure house <strong>of</strong> valuable artefacts <strong>of</strong> bronzeand stone images and miniature chaityas. On thewestern side <strong>of</strong> the stupa in front <strong>of</strong> the Haratitemple, there is a stone pillar on top <strong>of</strong> whichare some very striking bronze statues. On theeastern side, atop a Mandala, there is a massiveVajra, or thunderbolt. This golden Vajra, knownas dorje in Tibetan, is the symbol <strong>of</strong> VajrayanaBuddhism. In the vicinity <strong>of</strong> the great stupathere are Tibetan, Bhutanese and Nepalesevihars and gumbas, as well as a museum wherenumerous religious manuscripts and bronzeand stone images <strong>of</strong> both Buddhist and Hindudeities are on display. Indeed, the entire site is aunique open-air museum, unparalleled elsewherein the world.Boudhanath StupaThe great Stupa <strong>of</strong> Boudhanath is the principalcentre <strong>of</strong> Tibetan Buddhist worship in theKathmandu Valley. It has long been a majordestination for pilgrims from the Himalayas,Tibet and southeast and east Asia. It is one<strong>of</strong> the largest and most magnificent Buddhistmonuments in the world. Lichchhavi KingManadeva I (reign 464-505 A.D.) is credited tohave built this great stupa.LumbiniThere cannot be a more revered pilgrimagesite for Buddhists than Lumbini, the birthplace <strong>of</strong> Shakya Muni Buddha. Buddha, theprince <strong>of</strong> peace and non-violence, was bornat Lumbini in 623 B.C. For centuries, pilgrimstravelling from afar revered the spot at theLumbini garden where Gautama Buddha wasborn, building stupas, monasteries and othertypes <strong>of</strong> monuments. The most notable andimportant is the stone pillar erected by EmperorAshoka Maurya in the 3rd century B.C., whichauthenticates the exact spot where Queen MayaDevi gave birth to the blessed one. Today, thesite is being developed as a major internationalpilgrimage destination with the assistance <strong>of</strong>20


nations with Buddhist populations. Lumbinihas been listed in the World Heritage Site byUNESCO.Janaki TempleTo the Hindus, Janakpur, the birthplace <strong>of</strong> Janakior Sita, the consort <strong>of</strong> Rama, is an importantreligious pilgrimage site. In ancient times,Janakpur was the capital city <strong>of</strong> the Kingdom<strong>of</strong> Mithila and the centre <strong>of</strong> Maithili culture.The magnificent Janaki Mandir was built bythe Queen <strong>of</strong> Tikamgarh (India), MaharaniBrishabhanu Kunwari Devi in 1811 A.D. as amark <strong>of</strong> devotion to Janaki (Sita). The marriageanniversary <strong>of</strong> Lord Rama and Sita is solemnisedin Janakpur every year on Vivah Panchami daywhich falls in December. This is one <strong>of</strong> thebiggest festivals <strong>of</strong> this region attended byhundreds and thousands <strong>of</strong> devotees from Nepaland India. The birthday <strong>of</strong> Sita, known as SitaJayanti, is also celebrated in a grand mannerevery year in the month <strong>of</strong> April-May. For theJanakpurites, Sita is their ‘daughter’. NearJanakpur town is a place known as DhanushaDham, which is connected with the great Hinduepic Ramayana. According to the epic, one <strong>of</strong> thethree pieces <strong>of</strong> the Great Bow that Lord Ramabroke to win Sita’s hand in marriage fell on thissite - in present day Dhanusha Dham.MuktinathMuktinath is a very popular pilgrimage sitein Nepal. Situated at an altitude <strong>of</strong> 13,000feet above sea level in Mustang district, thesite is also known among the Hindus as MuktiChhetra, or the ‘abode <strong>of</strong> salvation’. There is asmall pagoda-style temple <strong>of</strong> Lord Vishnu whichis worshipped by both Hindus and Buddhists.The Buddhists worship the deity as one <strong>of</strong> theBodhisattvas. There are 108 sacred water spoutsflowing with icy cold water where devotees takea quick bath. Nearby is the temple <strong>of</strong> Jwala Mai,or the Goddess <strong>of</strong> Flame, with the phenomenalunderground blue flame.Other Pilgrimage SitesOther prominent pilgrimage sites are the BalmikiAshram in Chitwan district where accordingto the epic Ramayana, a pregnant Sita, afterbeing banished by Lord Rama, took refuge andgave birth to her two sons, Lava and Kush.Baraha Kshetra, situated near Dharan in eastNepal, is said to be the place where Lord Vishnuin the incarnation <strong>of</strong> Barah (boar) foughtand annihilated the demon Hiranakshya andsaved the Earth. Devghat, near Narayanghat inChitwan district, stands at the holy confluence<strong>of</strong> three mighty rivers, Trisuli, Gandaki and Seti.Swarga Dwari, which literally means ‘Gatewayto Heaven’, situated in Pyuthan district, isthe place from where the Pandavas <strong>of</strong> theMahabharata proceeded to Heaven. Gosainkund,the icy cold lake situated at an altitude <strong>of</strong>14,000 feet in Rasuwa district, is for the Hindusthe sacred watery place where Lord Shiva restedto soothe himself after having consumed thefiery Kalkoot poison that emanated from theSamudra Manthan (churning <strong>of</strong> the celestialocean). Gadhi Mai is the shrine located in thewoods in Bara district, and is renowned for themela (fair) where the largest animal sacrifice inthe region takes place over a period <strong>of</strong> a month.Other prominent pilgrimage sites are HalesiMahadev in Khotang, Mai Pokhari in Ilam andPathibhara Devi in Taplejung to name a few.21


History, Myths& LEgENDs


History, Mythsand LegendsThere are Hindu and Buddhistlegends behind the origin <strong>of</strong> theKathmandu Valley. According tothe former, for long this valleywas a huge pristine lake. LordKrishna <strong>of</strong> the Mahabharata agecame here and sliced the lowestpart <strong>of</strong> the southern hills with hisdivine discus (Sudarshan Chakra)allowing the water to flow out,making the valley possible forhuman settlement.Mystical Mythical Swayambhu ChaityaNepal is steeped in numerous legends, myths andfolklore that are entwined with different facets <strong>of</strong>Nepalese life. Every temple, shrine or sacred placethroughout the country has some myth or legend totell us. No wonder, Nepal is called the ‘Land <strong>of</strong> theGods’.Kathmandu ValleyThe Buddhist version gives credit for the origin <strong>of</strong>the valley to Sage Manjushri who came from China toworship at Swayambhu. He struck a deep cleft in thesouthern hills with his divine scimitar and drained<strong>of</strong>f the water, making the valley habitable for humansettlement. As if to corroborate the legend, the logo <strong>of</strong>Kathmandu Metropolitan City depicts the divine sword<strong>of</strong> Sage Manjushri.There are Hindu and Buddhist legends behind theorigin <strong>of</strong> the Kathmandu Valley. According to theformer, for long this valley was a huge pristine lake.Lord Krishna <strong>of</strong> the Mahabharata age came here andsliced the lowest part <strong>of</strong> the southern hills with hisdivine discus (Sudarshan Chakra) allowing the waterto flow out, making the valley possible for humansettlement. The cowherds (Gopals) who accompaniedhim settled here and were the first inhabitants <strong>of</strong> thevalley.23


Swayambhu Maha ChaityaOn the origin <strong>of</strong> Swayambhu Maha Chaitya,popular legend narrates how the valley wasonce a huge lake - a lake <strong>of</strong> idyllic beautysurrounded by green pristine forests. This lakewas known as Naag Hrad, or the Abode <strong>of</strong> theSerpent God. In this lake, Bipasvi Buddha cameto take a holy dip. He then cast some lotusseeds into the lake, which eventually bloomedinto a thousand-petal lotus over whichappeared a brilliant radiant flame, the beacon(Jyoti) that self-originated, which is theSwayambhu Jyoti-rupa (the beacon). The greateternal beacon was enshrined in this chaityaby King Prachand Deva <strong>of</strong> Gauda, India withthe sacred objective <strong>of</strong> preserving its religioussanctity against its possible destruction bynon-believers in the Kali Yug (the Eon <strong>of</strong> Evil).Swayambhu Chaitya


Boudhanath StupaThe legend behind the great Stupa <strong>of</strong>Boudhanath has it that it was built by a poultryfarmer - a woman - Shamvara. After receivingpermission from the king to build a stupa,Shamvara began its construction with the help<strong>of</strong> her four sons, an elephant and a donkey.Foundations were laid, and walls were built upto the third level. It was at this time that thepeople <strong>of</strong> the valley resented the idea <strong>of</strong> a poorpoultry farmer - and a woman at that - buildingsuch a stupa and shaming them by her illustriouswork.They questioned, if a poor woman could buildsuch a stupa, then what is to be expected fromthe king, the nobles and the wealthy. Jealous<strong>of</strong> the woman, they petitioned the king to haltthe construction work. But the king was not tooblige them. He told them that the poor poultrywoman-farmer had gone through great hardshipsto build this stupa, which he considered amarvel. As he had already given her permissionto build the stupa, he being the king, would nottake back his word. The construction work thuscontinued for four years, and the pinnacle wasnearing complete.But at this point, the poor woman, sensing thather end was nearing, called her four sons andservant and told them to complete this greatstupa. She said, “My divine project is the place<strong>of</strong> adulation for both earthly and superhumanbeings. Place the imperishable remains <strong>of</strong>the Tathagatas (mortal Buddhas) within thisstupa and consecrate it with great honour andreverence. I desire that my wish be fulfilled bywhich the great purpose <strong>of</strong> all the Buddhas <strong>of</strong>the past, present and future will be realised.And you, my sons, will also fulfill the purpose<strong>of</strong> this life and the next by obeying my wishes.”With these words, the woman died and attainedBuddhahood (salvation). Her sons completed theconstruction <strong>of</strong> the great stupa, which is nowthe famous Boudhanath.A Hindu legend on its origin states that thegreat stupa was built by King Manadeva I in 5thcentury A.D. to absolve himself from the sin <strong>of</strong>patricide.Nyatapola and BhairavTemple, BhaktapurAccording to popular legend, King BhupatindraMalla built a three-storeyed temple <strong>of</strong> Bhairav toprotect the city <strong>of</strong> Bhaktapur from evil spirits.But Bhairav, because <strong>of</strong> his boisterous nature,proved troublesome, and the king was advisedby his astrologers that only the installation <strong>of</strong>a Tantric goddess who was more powerful thanBhairav could curb his unruly behaviour. The kingthen built the five-storeyed temple and installedtherein the most powerful goddess, Siddhi Laxmi,to subdue Bhairav. This magnificent temple laterbecame famous as the Nyatapola (meaning fivestoreyedin the local dialect), and is today thelandmark <strong>of</strong> Bhaktapur city.Kumari, the Living GoddessThe myths and legends surrounding the Kumari,the Living Goddess <strong>of</strong> Kathmandu, is fascinating.Historical records show that the worship <strong>of</strong>Kumari as a living goddess has been prevalentsince at least the 10th century. But popularfolklore relating to the Kumari as the incarnation26


<strong>of</strong> Taleju Bhavani, the patron deity <strong>of</strong> theroyals, and the king conversing and playing dicewith her are linked to certain kings who ruledKathmandu, like Trailokya Malla (16th century)and the last Malla ruler <strong>of</strong> Kathmandu, JayaPrakash Malla (18th century). According to thelegend, it so happened that one night whileplaying dice with Goddess Taleju, or Kumari, theking was aroused by her celestial beauty and wasovercome with lust. The Kumari, a goddess as shewas, at once visualised the amorous thoughts inthe king’s mind. Showing her utter displeasure,she declared that she would henceforth nevercome to him and disappeared. The king wasfilled with pr<strong>of</strong>ound remorse and begged forforgiveness. The Goddess later relented and saidthat she would enter the body <strong>of</strong> a virgin girl, aKumari, which the king was to worship.Another version <strong>of</strong> the legend has it that theking and Kumari used to play dice every night oncondition that no mortal would see them doingso. Accordingly, the king had strictly instructedthe queen and his daughter not to enter orpeek into the certain room while he was inside.But curiosity got the better <strong>of</strong> the women, andthey peeped inside. The angry Goddess thendisappeared. The king repented and prayed forthe Goddess’ forgiveness. Goddess Kumari thencame in his dream and told the king that shewould henceforth not come in person. Insteadthe king was to worship a Shakya virgin girl whowould possess her divine power. Since then, aShakya virgin girl is worshipped as the Kumari,and once a year during the month <strong>of</strong> September,the Living Goddess is taken around the oldquarters <strong>of</strong> Kathmandu in her chariot during theIndra Jatra festival.Bisket JatraBisket Jatra is a gala festival held annually inBhaktapur on Nepalese New Year’s Day (BikramSambat). There is a popular folklore about theorigin <strong>of</strong> this festival. It relates to the time<strong>of</strong> the reign <strong>of</strong> Lichchhavi King Shiva Deva. ATantrik by the name <strong>of</strong> Shekhar Acharya wassaid to possess the extraordinary power <strong>of</strong>transforming himself into animals and reptiles.Once, his over-curious wife, Nararupa, wantedto see him change into a serpent. After muchpestering by the wife, he finally gave in to herdemand. But before doing so, he warned her notto be scared by what she was likely to see andto throw some grains <strong>of</strong> rice on him that wouldreturn him to his human form. He then changedhimself into a huge python. But when Nararupasaw the gigantic serpent, she was terrified. Shelost her nerve, and instead <strong>of</strong> throwing the riceat her husband-in-serpent form, she put the ricein her own mouth, which turned her also into apython.It so happened that in the whole kingdom, noneother than the king knew the mantra (chanting<strong>of</strong> sacred words) that could resuscitate themfrom the serpent to human form. Therefore,expecting to draw the attention <strong>of</strong> the king tohelp them return to human form, the husbandand wife pythons would stand and gaze towardsthe palace every day in the hope that the kingwould notice and resuscitate them to humanform. Time went by, but to no avail. Finally, thefrustrated python couple committed suicide at aplace called Chuping Ghat (a river bank).This tragic end <strong>of</strong> Shekhar Acharya and his wifebrought famine to the country. Not knowing27


what had come to pass, the alarmed kingsummoned the Tantrik Shekhar Acharya tocourt for advice to help quell the famine,but he was nowhere to be found. Ultimately,it was discovered that the Tantrik and hiswife had committed suicide in the form<strong>of</strong> serpents. The king and the people werehighly dismayed. Since then, every year, inmemory <strong>of</strong> the Tantrik and his wife, two longcloth banners, representing and symbolising theserpent couple, are hung from a wooden pole,called the lingo, to commemorate their tragicdeath.


Bisket Jatra


FEstiVALs& cELEBrAtioNs


Festivals andCelebrationsNepalese celebrate festivals withgreat enthusiasm and élan. It issaid that hardly a day passes inNepal without a festival beingcelebrated somewhere.Dashain Festival swingThe <strong>of</strong>ficial calendar adopted by the Nepalese is theBikram Sambat (B.S.). The Bikram Sambat New Yearbegins with the month <strong>of</strong> Baisakh (mid-April). Forall religious festivals and auspicious personal eventsand rituals, Nepalese make use <strong>of</strong> the lunar calendar.Religion plays a very vital role in all festivals in Nepal,whether Hindu or Buddhist. One can see a blend <strong>of</strong>these two religions in most <strong>of</strong> the Nepalese festivals.Nepalese celebrate festivals with great enthusiasmand élan. It is said that hardly a day passes in Nepalwithout a festival being celebrated somewhere.Certain festivals are celebrated nationwide, whileothers are <strong>of</strong> a local nature, observed within a certainregion or community. Based on this, Nepalese festivalscan be broadly classified into three categories: thosethat are celebrated nationwide, regionally or locally,and by the community. Major festivals like BadaDasain, or Durga Puja, Tihar, or Laxmi Puja, BuddhaJayanti, or the birth anniversary <strong>of</strong> Lord Buddha, ShivaRatri, or the birthday <strong>of</strong> Lord Shiva, Janai Purnima,Ram Navami and Krishna Janmasthami are celebratedthroughout the country.Some prominent festivals that are celebrated withgreat fanfare are the Indra Jatra <strong>of</strong> Kathmandu,31


Rato Machhindranath Rath Yatra <strong>of</strong> Patan, Bisketand Bhairav Rath Yatra <strong>of</strong> Bhaktapur, GhodaJatra <strong>of</strong> Kathmandu, Maghe Sankranti, or thefirst day <strong>of</strong> the month <strong>of</strong> Magh, ChandeshwariJatra <strong>of</strong> Banepa, Palanchowk Bhagwati Jatra <strong>of</strong>Palanchowk, Bhagwati Jatra <strong>of</strong> Palpa, GosainKunda Mela at Gosain Kunda in Rasuwa districtand Haleshi Mahadev Mela <strong>of</strong> Khotang.Similarly, other noteworthy local festivals arethe Gatha-Muga, or Ghanta Karna, in Kathmandu,chariot pulling festival <strong>of</strong> the Kumari inKathmandu, Bajra Barahi Jatra <strong>of</strong> Tistung in


Makwanpur, Janaki Vivaha, or Vivaha Panchami,in Dhanusha, Triveni Mela at Udayapur, BarahaChhetra Mela in Sunsari, Mai-Pokhari Mela inIlam, Bhimsen Jatra in Dolakha and IndreshwarMela in Panauti. Festivals such as Chhath, Faguand Holi (festival <strong>of</strong> colours) are celebratedregionally.Nepalese festivals are generally woven aroundthe monsoon-driven agricultural cycle, andwith rice being the most important staplecrop, many <strong>of</strong> these festivities are observedafter the plantation and harvesting <strong>of</strong> paddy.Every festival involves the worshipping <strong>of</strong> theconcerned deities and then sitting for a feastthereafter. A legend or folklore is behind everyfestival in Nepal.Indra Jatra


UNESCOHEritAgE SitEs


UNESCOHeritage SitesThe Kathmandu Valley is a treasuretrove <strong>of</strong> Nepalese culture, and animportant side <strong>of</strong> that culture isits architectural heritage which isrepresented in the numerous monumentsincluded and preserved within the sevenmonument zones in the KathmanduValley World Heritage Site.NyatapolaNepal’s rich mosaic <strong>of</strong> cultural heritages could belikened to a precious diamond having numerousfacets. The Kathmandu Valley is a treasure trove <strong>of</strong>Nepalese culture, and an important side <strong>of</strong> that cultureis its architectural heritage which is represented inthe numerous monuments included and preservedwithin the seven monument zones in the KathmanduValley World Heritage Site. The valley is replete withmarvelous creations in various shapes and forms <strong>of</strong>art and architecture, extending even to a small stoneor a bronze statue. The fine woodcarvings in thetemples and houses are well-known throughout theworld. The exquisite temples, monasteries, stupas orChaityas, shrines, palaces, monuments and every otherarchitectural wonder <strong>of</strong> the valley are glorious cultural<strong>treasures</strong> <strong>of</strong> Nepal as well as a heritage <strong>of</strong> the whole <strong>of</strong>mankind. Nepalese architectural heritage is representedin the unique design <strong>of</strong> built structures like the pagodaand Shikhara-style temples, shrines, monasteries,palaces, individual homes, stupas or Chaityas (Buddhisthemispherical structures that do not contain the mortalremains <strong>of</strong> Buddhas or other holy persons), Sattals(wayside rest house), Patis (public rest house), Pauvas(one or two-storey public rest house), Dhunge Dharasor stone waterspouts, Dabalis or open platforms,Ghats or river banks, ponds, pillar statues, minarets ortowers, forts and so on.35


UNESCO has included seven monument sites <strong>of</strong> theKathmandu Valley in the World Cultural Heritage list. Ofthe seven sites, three are centred around the ancientmedieval palaces <strong>of</strong> the valley, namely the HanumanDhoka Durbar (palace) in Kathmandu, Patan Durbar inPatan (Lalitpur) and Bhaktapur Durbar in Bhaktapur.These palace complexes were the residences <strong>of</strong> theMalla kings. The other world heritage sites are theSwayambhu Maha Chaitya, Boudhanath Stupa, thetemple complex <strong>of</strong> Lord Pashupatinath in Kathmanduand the Changu Narayan Temple in Bhaktapur.Kathmandu Durbar Square


Bhaktapur Durbar SquareAmong the three Durbar Squares, the BhaktapurDurbar Square is by far the most elegant with itslarge open space facing south. The Golden Gateand the Palace <strong>of</strong> 55 Carved Windows have addedsplendour to this palace square which consists <strong>of</strong>buildings dating from the 13th century to the 18thcentury. Bhaktapur’s landmark is the world famousfive-tiered Nyatapola, or five-storeyed temple,built in 1702 at Taumadhi Square. Bhaktapur is aliving museum <strong>of</strong> arts and architecture. Each andevery piece <strong>of</strong> art speaks <strong>of</strong> the city’s history. Themonuments and sculptures reflect centuries-oldcraftsmanship. The city has suffered much fromearthquakes, especially those <strong>of</strong> 1808, 1833and 1934. These earthquakes caused extensivedamage to its ancient buildings. Yet, despitethe destruction, the external appearance <strong>of</strong>the city does not seem to have changed much.Temples and monuments have been restored andpreserved. Dilapidated buildings have been rebuiltor renovated in their original form. So the basicstructure <strong>of</strong> the town is intact.


Dattatreya Temple


In the 1970s, the pioneering BhaktapurDevelopment Project, with financial andtechnical assistance from the Germangovernment, restored considerable portions <strong>of</strong>the city’s lost heritage and improved its physicalinfrastructure.The main attraction <strong>of</strong> the Bhaktapur DurbarSquare is the famous Golden Gate or SwarnaDwar, built by King Ranjit Malla in 1753. Britishhistorian Perceval Landon praised it as ‘themost exquisitely designed and finished piece<strong>of</strong> gilded metalwork in all Asia’. The gate is themain entrance to the palace. The Palace <strong>of</strong> 55Windows, built by King Yaksha Malla in 1427 andrenovated by King Bhupatindra Malla, is famousfor its intricately carved wood works. There aremany courtyards inside the palace, but theyare closed to the public. The visitor has to besatisfied with the diversity <strong>of</strong> monuments aroundthe palace complex.Upon entering the gate to the BhaktapurDurbar Square, there are two temples to theright. One is the two-storeyed Krishna Temple,with ro<strong>of</strong> struts depicting the 10 incarnations<strong>of</strong> Lord Vishnu. The second is a terracottaShikhara temple dedicated to Goddess Durgaor Bhagawati. The life-size statue <strong>of</strong> KingBhupatindra Malla with folded palms atop astone pillar in front <strong>of</strong> the National Art Galleryis another remarkable piece <strong>of</strong> sculpture. Thelast Malla ruler <strong>of</strong> Bhaktapur, King Ranjit Malla,erected this statue in 1753 as a tribute toBhupatindra Malla, who enriched the culturalheritage <strong>of</strong> Bhaktapur. The Big Bell, installedhere by King Ranjit Malla in 1737, is used whileworshipping Goddess Tulaja Bhavani. Behindthis, there is a beautiful stone Shikhara-styletemple with nine pinnacles dedicated to GoddessBatsala built in 1672 by King Jagat PrakashMalla. Next to the Batsala temple is the twostoreyedpagoda-style temple <strong>of</strong> YaksheswaraMahadev built by King Yaksha Malla in the 15thcentury.Taumadhi Square that houses the NyatapolaTemple is one <strong>of</strong> the three main squares includedin the world heritage site <strong>of</strong> Bhaktapur. Thissquare is dominated by two <strong>of</strong> Bhaktapur’sgrandest temples. The Nyatapola, or fivestoreyedtemple <strong>of</strong> Goddess Siddhi Laxmi, thepatron deity <strong>of</strong> King Bhupatindra Malla, is byfar the most imposing. Its five-step base givesit a towering height, which makes it the tallesttemple in the country. This grand temple, amasterpiece <strong>of</strong> Nepalese architecture, was builtby King Bhupatindra Malla in 1702. The columnsaround the temple sanctum and door frame haveexquisite carvings. The impressive woodworkincludes 108 supporting ro<strong>of</strong> struts, which depictthe diverse forms <strong>of</strong> the goddess Bhagawati, orMahismardini, and other associate deities. Inthe southeast corner <strong>of</strong> this courtyard standsa massive three-storeyed rectangular temple<strong>of</strong> Bhairav, also known as Kashi Bishwanath.The original temple is believed to have beenconstructed in 1001 during the reign <strong>of</strong> KingNirvaya Deva.Tachapal, or Dattatraya Square, is one <strong>of</strong> thethree main squares <strong>of</strong> Bhaktapur. The Dattatraya42


Temple stands in the east <strong>of</strong> the square. It wasbuilt by King Yaksha Malla and his son BiswaMalla in the 15th century. The god Dattatrayarepresents the Hindu trinity <strong>of</strong> Brahma, Vishnuand Maheshwar or Shiva. Surrounding theDattatraya Square are several Hindu Maths ormonasteries, <strong>of</strong> which the most important isthe Pujari Math. The Pujari Math is especiallyknown for the rich 18th century woodcarvingsthat grace its doors and windows. Particularlywell-known is the famed intricately carved‘Peacock Window’ facing the lane on the eastside <strong>of</strong> the building. It is supposedly the finestspecimen <strong>of</strong> woodcarving. In fact, the ancientcity <strong>of</strong> Bhaktapur is home to some <strong>of</strong> the rarestand probably the finest examples <strong>of</strong> Nepalesewoodcarving art and architecture.LumbiniOutside the Kathmandu Valley, Lumbini, thebirthplace <strong>of</strong> Lord Buddha, has been enlistedin the World Cultural Heritage site. SiddharthaGautama, who later attained enlightenment asthe Buddha, was born in Lumbini in the spring<strong>of</strong> 623 B.C. An inscription on a stone pillarerected by Maurya Emperor Ashoka in 249 B.C.authenticates that the Buddha was born at thisspot. Recent archaeological excavations havediscovered the “marker stone” at the basement<strong>of</strong> the Maya Devi Temple, believed to have beenlaid there by Emperor Ashoka to denote theexact sacred spot where the Buddha first puthis foot on earth. This has further enhanced theimportance and sanctity <strong>of</strong> the site. The stupasbuilt during different periods dating from 3rdcentury B.C. to 15th century A.D., the MayaDevi Temple and Pushkarni Pond where the babySiddhartha was given his first bath after birthare some ancient edifices <strong>of</strong> Lumbini.A Master Plan for the development <strong>of</strong> Lumbiniwas initiated in 1978 as per the design <strong>of</strong>world-renowned architect Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Tange <strong>of</strong>Japan. The Master Plan segregates the Lumbiniarea into four main components: the SacredGarden which includes the Maya Devi Templeand the Ashokan pillar; the monastic zone; thecultural centre; and the Lumbini village. Sincethe early 1980s, many countries with significantBuddhist populations have contributed inits infrastructural development. Monasteriesreflecting the architecture <strong>of</strong> the individualcountries have been constructed in the monasticzone. But much still remains to be done to givefinal shape to the Master Plan.As the birthplace <strong>of</strong> Lord Buddha, Lumbini isone <strong>of</strong> the holiest places <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the world’sgreatest religions. It has remained a hallowedBuddhist pilgrimage spot since very early times.Lumbini has been designated as the “Fountain <strong>of</strong>World Peace and the Holiest Pilgrimage Centre <strong>of</strong>Buddhists and peace-loving people <strong>of</strong> the world”.The site remains a place <strong>of</strong> pilgrimage for bothBuddhists and Hindus alike from all over theworld.Besides the existing World Heritage sitesin Nepal, there are many other natural andhistorical monuments and sites in the countrywhich merit inclusion in the World Heritage list.43


Art &ArchitEctUrE


Art, Architecture,Sculpture and PaintingNepal’s ethnic diversity, religiousand cultural beliefs, festivities,gods and goddesses in their manymanifestations, demons, myths,legends, folklore and myriad spiritualand supernatural elements have beenthe subject <strong>of</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>ound interest tovisitors. Its cultural mosaic is enrichedby folk art and artistic creations, whichare reflected in its music, musicalinstruments, paintings (thangkas),masks and curio items <strong>of</strong> culturalsignificance and numerous otherobjects d’art.Sculptor at work in PatanThe seven UNESCO monuments <strong>of</strong> the Kathmanduvalley comprising <strong>of</strong> three historical palaces knownas – Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan Durbar Squareand Bhaktapur Durbar Square-- two Buddhist stupas-Syambhunath and Boudanath and two Hindu templesPashupatinath and Changu Narayan, were reveredas sacred for hundred <strong>of</strong> years and there has been aseries <strong>of</strong> contributions and renovations in the form <strong>of</strong>constructions <strong>of</strong> temples, stupas and palaces over thecenturies made by different rulers and Kings.The pagodas are multi-tiered monuments taperingtowards the top with intricate wood carving inthe forms <strong>of</strong> doors, pillars, windows and struts.These ubiquitous wooden historical structures aresupplemented by bronze works and stone sculpturestogether forming the squares and palaces with pr<strong>of</strong>userepresentation <strong>of</strong> images <strong>of</strong> gods, goddesses, demons,beasts, mythical figures, kings and the ordinary humanbeings engaged in their day-to-day activities.The Lichchavi period is known as the classical period<strong>of</strong> Nepalese history because it was during this periodthat art and architecture began to take shape.Trade and crafts flourished under them, and theybuilt magnificent temples, palaces and monuments.However, it was only under the later Malla periodand the early Shah period from the 14th to the18th centuries the valley’s fabulous cities with theirexquisite pagoda, shikhara and stupa architecture,ornate palaces and artistic temples came to take shapein the form that we see it today.45


The present day neo-classical buildings were alsobuilt only during the second half <strong>of</strong> the 19thcentury (Rana Regime) with Nepal’s first contactwith the western countries.Nepal’s ethnic diversity, religious and culturalbeliefs, festivities, gods and goddesses in their manymanifestations, demons, myths, legends, folkloreand myriad spiritual and supernatural elements havebeen the subject <strong>of</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>ound interest to visitors. Itscultural mosaic is enriched by folk art and artisticcreations, which are reflected in its music, musicalinstruments, paintings (thangkas), masks and curioitems <strong>of</strong> cultural significance and numerous otherobjects d’art.Harmonious inter-relationship and tolerancebetween Hinduism and Buddhism and themutual respect and acceptance <strong>of</strong> each otherhave created a congenial environment for thedevelopment <strong>of</strong> art and culture. Early visitors tothe country described the valley as the abode<strong>of</strong> the gods and goddesses where there weremore temples than houses and more gods andgoddesses than people. Writings by 7th centuryChinese travellers reported well-built townsand settlements with magnificent palaces andtemples. Its narrow streets with ro<strong>of</strong>ed brickhouses in a row on both sides, paved squares,open platforms or stages, stone water spoutsand a landscape punctuated by temples, stupas,monasteries and numerous other religious andcultural monuments added to its aestheticbeauty. An inventory prepared in 1975 statedthat more than 80 per cent <strong>of</strong> all historicalmonuments in the country were to be found inthe Kathmandu Valley. In the valley alone, therewere more than a thousand splendid monuments.This was what Brown Morton III, Chairman <strong>of</strong>the United States National Committee for theInternational Council <strong>of</strong> Monuments and Sites,had to say in 1979: “The Kathmandu Valley isperhaps the most beautiful place in the world.Hidden deep in the folds <strong>of</strong> the Himalayanmountains between India and Tibet, this exoticcentre <strong>of</strong> an exotic country is nearly a perfectsynthesis <strong>of</strong> natural and man-made beauty.”The natural splendour <strong>of</strong> the valley, its historyand cultural opulence have attracted visitors,pilgrims, traders and scholars who dared toventure into the mountains and inhospitableterrain in search <strong>of</strong> the elusive Shangri-la.What makes Kathmandu Valley unique is theamalgamation <strong>of</strong> its magnificent naturalenvironment with a living civilisation reflectedin its towns, monuments, festivities, highlystylised pageants, ritualistic customs, religioustraditions and vibrant culture.Thangka (Pauva) ArtThe art <strong>of</strong> painting in Nepal is as old as thecarvings on stone and metal, and it is variouslyexpressed in the murals, manuscripts, Gathas(wooden covers <strong>of</strong> manuscripts), and on clothand paper. As in other forms <strong>of</strong> Nepalese art,religion has played a dominant role in painting,too. Thangkas, also known as Pauvas, aretraditional paintings depicting religious themesand deities. It is prepared on a piece <strong>of</strong> finecotton or silk cloth which is coated with amixture <strong>of</strong> glue, chalk and indigo and finallyvarnished with the white <strong>of</strong> a duck’s egg mixedwith water. The Pauva paintings have generallybeen painted by traditional ethnic castes likethe Chitrakars, Shakyas, Vajracharyas and TibetanLamas.46


Mithila ArtThese days, Maithili art or painting is alsogaining popularity among the tourists. Basically,Maithili art is a folk painting dominated byreligious themes. Janakpur in central-southNepal is the centre <strong>of</strong> this school <strong>of</strong> art. Thepeople <strong>of</strong> Mithila, generally womenfolk, paint thewalls <strong>of</strong> their houses with pictures <strong>of</strong> differentflowers and objects <strong>of</strong> socio-religious themesin bright colours. The women <strong>of</strong> Mithila havecultivated this ceremonial art <strong>of</strong> drawing andpainting on the mud walls <strong>of</strong> their houses, thefloors <strong>of</strong> their thresholds and courtyards. Sita,the princess <strong>of</strong> Mithila and consort <strong>of</strong> Rama<strong>of</strong> the epic Ramayana, has been the perennialsource <strong>of</strong> inspiration to the women <strong>of</strong> Mithila inthis ancient craft <strong>of</strong> painting. Today, they areexperimenting with their ancient art on paperas a form <strong>of</strong> prayer. The art <strong>of</strong> Mithila is heavilyinfluenced by Tantric cults as in the Pauvasand, therefore, their paintings are full <strong>of</strong> Tantricsymbols like the Mandala in Tibetan art.MuseumsNepal Museum, the first and pioneer museum<strong>of</strong> Nepal, opened to the general public onFebruary 12, 1939. Located at Chhauni on thewestern outskirts <strong>of</strong> Kathmandu, it later becamepopular as the National Museum. It has threesections - history, art gallery and Buddhist artgallery - housed in three separate buildings. Inthe art gallery, there are numerous sculptures<strong>of</strong> historical and artistic importance in stone,bronze and wood. The earliest dated stone statue<strong>of</strong> King Jaya Verma, circa 185 A.D., is on displayhere. The National Numismatic Museum is housedon the top floor <strong>of</strong> the history section. TheNational Museum is open six days a week exceptTuesdays and public holidays.The historical old Malla palaces <strong>of</strong> the valleyhave also been converted into museums. TheHanuman Dhoka Palace houses the biographicalmuseums <strong>of</strong> the Shah Kings - Tribhuvan,Mahendra and Birendra. The Patan Museum, withits rich collection <strong>of</strong> Nepalese bronze sculptures,has been established in the residential palacecompound <strong>of</strong> the Keshav Narayan Chowk <strong>of</strong> PatanDurbar. This Patan Museum was restored to itsearlier glory with the technical and financialassistance <strong>of</strong> the Austrian government. It isconsidered to be one <strong>of</strong> the best museumsin south Asia. The National Art Gallery atBhaktapur was set up in the famous 55 WindowPalace <strong>of</strong> Bhaktapur Durbar in 1961. In thisgallery, thangka paintings, or traditionalNepalese paintings, dating from the 13th and14th centuries are preserved and on display.In Bhaktapur, we have two smaller museumsat Dattatraya Square. The Pujari Math Museumcontains woodcarvings while the Chikanfa MathMuseum has bronze metal artefacts and utensilsused for religious rites and household purposes.Other museums in the valley are the Museum <strong>of</strong>Natural History and the Museum <strong>of</strong> SwayambhuBikas Mandal at Swayambhu. The latter holds acollection <strong>of</strong> Buddhist artefacts in stone. TheNepal National Ethnographic Museum housed inthe Tourism Service Centre building at BhrikutiMandap, Kathmandu displays life size dioramasdepicting the life and culture <strong>of</strong> different racesand ethnic communities <strong>of</strong> Nepal.Outside the Kathmandu Valley, there are regionalmuseums at Pokhara, Surkhet, Dhankuta andKapilvastu. Except for the one at Kapilvastu, theother museums are mainly ethnological museumsdepicting local culture. Among them, theprominent ones are the International MountainMuseum at Pokhara, the Tharu Cultural Museum47


at Thakurdwara in Bardiya National Park and TheMustang Eco-Museum at Jomsom in Mustang.These days, private collectors have also beenencouraged to stage exhibitions to display theircollections <strong>of</strong> different types <strong>of</strong> traditional artsand handicraft items.At Lumbini, the birthplace <strong>of</strong> Lord Buddha, thereis the all important archaeological remains <strong>of</strong>the Maya Devi Temple, especially the alcoveremains which date from 3rd century B.C. Thearchaeological ruins <strong>of</strong> monasteries date from3rd century B.C to 5th century A.D. Numerousartefact items were discovered while excavatingthe Lumbini area, such as silver coins, child’stoy and a ram made <strong>of</strong> clay on wheels which wasprobably used during early period. The BuddhistInternational Research Library at Lumbini has arich collection <strong>of</strong> Buddhist texts.Nepal’s museums have rich collections<strong>of</strong> archaeological, historical and artisticimportance. Besides the archaeological objectsdating from the time <strong>of</strong> Lord Buddha unearthedat Lumbini, Tilaurakot and other places inwest Nepal, pre-historic archaeological objectsdiscovered in the Mustang caves belong to 8thcentury B.C. Stone statues, inscriptions, coinsand many other archaeological objects have beendiscovered in the Kathmandu Valley which datesfrom the 1st century. As Nepalese are icon (idol)worshipers, a vast treasure <strong>of</strong> cultural wealth inthe form <strong>of</strong> stone, wood and metal sculpturesand religious paintings remain in privatepossession with private collectors.Traditional HandicraftsNepalese handicrafts have been popular sincelong. The mention <strong>of</strong> the woolen blanket in the‘Kautilya Artha Sastra’ <strong>of</strong> Chanakya Bishnu Gupta(Kautilya) which dates back to 4th century B.C.proves this fact. Nepalese bronze artefacts havebeen treasured by the Tibetans since the time<strong>of</strong> the Lichchhavis (3rd and 4th century A.D.).During the medieval period, Nepalese handicraftswere very popular in China and India. Sculpturedornaments and religious idols and statuettesin gold, silver, bronze, brass, stone and woodand embossed with semi-precious stones werehighly sought-after merchandise in China andIndia. Chinese travellers appreciated the skilland craftsmanship <strong>of</strong> the Nepalese artisans,especially their weaving, spinning, wood carvingand metal work. The contribution <strong>of</strong> the mastercraftsman, Arniko, who enriched Nepalesehandicrafts and popularised them throughoutTibet, China and other countries <strong>of</strong> the FarEast was immense. Nepalese handicrafts aredeeply rooted in the socio-religious and culturallives <strong>of</strong> the people. They can be divided intotwo main categories: articles <strong>of</strong> daily use andartefacts/articles <strong>of</strong> aesthetic value and religioussignificance. These range from artefacts linked toritualistic cults during the worship <strong>of</strong> deities toobjects used in daily life, like pots and hairpinsto hookahs (hubble-bubble), beads, shawls andskirts. Ethnic craftsmen have demonstrated theirdistinct characteristics in the design, modellingand production process <strong>of</strong> the artefacts. Theethnic utilitarian handicrafts constitute a longrange <strong>of</strong> articles, like khal-lohara (pestle andmortar), amkhora (waterpot), anti (winejar), sukunda(oil lamp), karuwa(water jar), thaal(plate), kachaura(saucer), kasaudi(cooking pot), chulesi(vegetable cutter),gagri (water pitcher),khukuri (gorkha knife) anddhakki (basket).Nepal’s handicraftindustry <strong>of</strong> todayis almost totallydependent on tourism48


and export. The habit <strong>of</strong> using handicraftsis, however, gradually increasing among thelocal people, too. Projects for the restoration<strong>of</strong> temples and monuments launched by bothgovernment and non-government agencies withinternational cooperation have helped revive andsustain handicraft production and trade, suchas brick and tile manufacturing, woodcarving,metal and bronze casting, stone carving andso on. In fact, handicrafts are the true mirror<strong>of</strong> Nepalese cultural and artistic heritage andreflect the glorious art traditions <strong>of</strong> the past.The fine craftsmanship <strong>of</strong> Nepalese artisans hasnot only attracted foreign visitors, but has alsoenhanced the country’s image abroad. It is thusone <strong>of</strong> the country’s most important industrieshaving a wide international market. The skill hasbeen handed down from father to son and fromone generation to another. Nepalese handicrafts,particularly bronze figures, wooden artwork,pashmina shawls and thangka paintings havebeen very popular gift items among the tourists.Bronze artefacts like the sukunda, or traditionalNepalese oil lamp, prayer wheels, metal bells andtraditional dolls are some <strong>of</strong> the highly popularsouvenir gift items coveted by the tourists.


Mani Rimdu FestivalMasksMask dances having religious significance arepopular with the masses in the country. Masksare used for different religious purposes, andsome gods, particularly Bhairav, is worshipped inmask form. In the Kathmandu Valley, traditionalmasks are made by the Chitrakars. The mask alsorepresents the culture, religious tradition andbelief <strong>of</strong> the society or community. Ritualisticdances performed with grotesque masks and ornatecostumes accompanied by traditional music reflectbeauty and grace as well as a pride in tradition. Inreligious dances, masks are used for two purposes:firstly, for the dancer to receive divine powerpsychologically and secondly, to sweep away theonlookers psychologically from reality to the other


world. All mask dances observed in Nepal havesome legend behind them. Wooden masks arepopular in the northern parts <strong>of</strong> the country,and they are made by the Lamas. The Tamangsliving in the periphery <strong>of</strong> the valley are famousfor their skill in manufacturing wooden masks.Masks are also very popular among the touristsas souvenirs.


OthErSPEciALitiEs


OtherSpecialitiesThe ethnic dresses and ornaments<strong>of</strong> Nepal represent a myriadcollection <strong>of</strong> rich cultural diversity.Dresses and ornaments differsignificantly with climate andregions - as in the high mountainsand the lowlands <strong>of</strong> the Terai, aswell as in the eastern, central andwestern regions where differentethnic groups dwell.Chhetri women from Far westCostumes And OrnamentsNepalese costumes and ornaments are unique andvaried in their own ways. Ethnic groups and indigenouspeople have their own typical attire for men andwomen. The ethnic dresses and ornaments <strong>of</strong> Nepalrepresent a myriad collection <strong>of</strong> rich cultural diversity.Dresses and ornaments differ significantly with climateand regions - as in the high mountains and thelowlands <strong>of</strong> the Terai, as well as in the eastern, centraland western regions where different ethnic groupsdwell. Normally, Nepalese men wear a long shirt, ordaura, and trouser, or suruwal, while womenfolk wearblouse, or cholo, and sari. This female attire exudesgrace and beauty. Nepalese women invariably wearsome ornaments on their ears, nose or neck. Goldand silver ornaments are worn by Nepalese womenaccording to their economic status. Most marriedNepalese women prefer to wear a long necklace <strong>of</strong> redbeads called potey with or without gold decorationon their necks and put red sindoor on their headsin between the central partition <strong>of</strong> the hair. Marriedwomen wear glass bangles generally <strong>of</strong> red colour ontheir wrists. Potey (bead-necklace), red/green banglesand sindoor are the typical signs <strong>of</strong> a married woman.Hindu tradition forbids widows <strong>of</strong> this luxury.53


Nepalese CuisineCooked rice (bhat) or a thick paste <strong>of</strong> maize ormillet powder called dhedo, with some dal, orlentil soup, and vegetable curry and hot pickleform the daily staple Nepalese cuisine. Peoplein the Terai eat roti, a round pancake-like breadmade <strong>of</strong> wheat flour, with curry and pickles.During feasts, people make preparations <strong>of</strong>meat, varieties <strong>of</strong> curries and sweets. Nepalesecuisine is usually spicy and hot. Momo, a smallround wheat ball stuffed with meat, is the mostpopular snack among the natives and foreigners.It is eaten along with some hot and sour pickle.Momo and chhoyela, or small pieces <strong>of</strong> meatsteamed or barbecued and mixed with a hotpaste <strong>of</strong> garlic and other spices, are gainingpopularity among foreigners. Food dishes <strong>of</strong>Nepal have their own unique taste and typicalflavour and are a gourmet’s delight. Nepalesenormally eat food with the hand while seatedcross-legged on the floor, usually upon a thickflat wooden board, though this practice haslargely given way to the dining table and chairin the urban areas.Musical InstrumentsMusic is an integral part <strong>of</strong> Nepalese festivities.The sound <strong>of</strong> many-toned drums, blastingtrumpets and clashing cymbals accompany thecelebration <strong>of</strong> festivities. There are numerousindigenous musical instruments, some veryunique to Nepal. Some <strong>of</strong> these instruments arepopular throughout the country, while some areplayed only locally or on specific occasions. TheSarangi, or a small chordophone which is playedby running a bow over the strings, is made andplayed by the Gandharvas or Gaines, who arethe traditional folk singers <strong>of</strong> western Nepal. Airor wind blown instruments (aerophones) comein various shapes, sizes and sound. The flute is apopular instrument played with the mouth. TheSahanai or Panchey Baja produces a very movingsound and is played during weddings. The Karnalis another air blown instrument that produces apiercing powerful sound. The Narasingha, Pongaand Muhali are other types <strong>of</strong> instruments whichare played during religious and social functions.Among the membranophones, the Damphu is adouble-sided disk shaped drum, topped with leatherand with a long wooden handle. It is played bystriking the leather face with the fingers and palm.The Dhol or Dholak is a double-headed drum widelyused in the Terai region <strong>of</strong> Nepal during public fairsand festivals. Dhimey is a double-headed cylindricaldrum with a big wooden body. Its right side isbeaten with a light winded cane and the left withthe hand <strong>of</strong> the player. It is widely used by theNewars <strong>of</strong> the Kathmandu Valley. The Mridanga is adouble-headed drum with a heavy wooden body. Itproduces a gentle and pleasant sound. The Maadalis the most popular drum. Made <strong>of</strong> leather with awooden body, it largely accompanies folk music anddances in the hills.MeditationThe practice <strong>of</strong> meditation (dhyana) is deeprooted in the Nepalese society as it is heldsacred by both the Hindu and Buddhist faiths.Meditation is very prevalent in Buddhism andis practised with great devotion. Meditation isa part <strong>of</strong> yoga. It blends the mind and body,giving way to spiritual solace. Seated in a typicallotus position (Padmasana), practitioners <strong>of</strong>meditation close their eyes and chant sacredwords (mantra) like ‘Om’ synchronising themwith their breathing. Meditation is believed tobring tranquil harmony to the mind.All Nepalese households have idols <strong>of</strong> deities athome. The devotees worship the gods every morningand evening. Folding their palms and closing theireyes, they pray and meditate for the good healthand prosperity <strong>of</strong> the family and ultimate salvation(mokshya) <strong>of</strong> the self after death.54


Faith HealersIn the hilly villages <strong>of</strong> Nepal, one <strong>of</strong>ten encountersthe shamans. Typically attired in white longrobes (jama) and small round bells (ghangla)tied around their waist, and head bedecked withfeathers, these shamans, or jhankris as they arecalled, are a unique facet <strong>of</strong> Nepalese rural lifein the hills. The shamans believe in animismand animal sacrifice. In Nepalese villages, theyperform the work <strong>of</strong> healers and forecasters <strong>of</strong>the future. They participate in Hindu or Buddhistcommunity festivals and celebrations, thoughthey do not consider themselves to be devotees <strong>of</strong>either religion. They centre on their own religiouspractices <strong>of</strong> territorial deities and life-cycle rituals.They harbour beliefs in supernatural beings such asghosts, spirits and demons. They play the Dhyangro,a type <strong>of</strong> hand-held drum which is beaten with aspecial type <strong>of</strong> ring-shaped stick. They claim havingthe power to drive away evil sprits tormentingpeople. They thus function as faith healers, drivingaway evil spirits and curing the sick. The faithhealers say they are possessed by some supernaturalforce or the powerful Ban Devi, or forest goddess.They also maintain having the ability to performmiracles. The jhankris make a pilgrimage to GosainKunda on Janai Purnima day in the month <strong>of</strong> August.


Published By:Nepal Tourism BoardBhrikutimandap, Kathmandu, NepalTourist Service CenterP O Box: 11018Tel:+977-1-4256909Fax:+977-1-4256910E-mail:info@ntb.org.npNepal Tourism Board

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