june-2014

In association with Costa Cálida International Radio and www.angloINFO.comMany of Murcia’stownspossess architecturalgemsand curiositiesfrom relativelymodern times.Jumilla in thenortheast is noexception anda short walkthrough thecentral urbanarea providessome interestingviewing, especiallyof theflowering of thetown around acentury ago.Undoubtedly the most emblematic buildingof this era is the Teatro Vico (Vico Theatre)which is to be found on Cánovas de CastilloStreet at the eastern edge of the historic coreof the town just by the Jardin (Garden) de laGlorieta. It is also the beginning of a touristroute through the town (the “urban route”,details of which you will be able to obtainfrom the Tourist Office).The theatre was named after a 19 th Centuryactor, Antonio Vico. It was designed by thefamous Murcian architect Justo Millán and,both internally and externally, it is very similarto the Teatro de Romea in Murcia City,though somewhat smaller and with a capacityof just over 500 people. Nevertheless, itwould seem more than adequate to cater for atown the size of Jumilla! The theatre openedon 14 August 1883 with a performance of theSpanish Light Opera “La Tormenta”.On the external facade are representationsof some of Spain’s thespians – Lope, Calderónand Quevedo are some of the names wewere given. The statement lights just outsidethe front of the theatre are one more originalfeature. In the late 1980’s, the theatre wasalmost totally restored as near as possible toits original state, with Queen Sofia reopeningit on 25 th April1991. Furtherrestorationworks werecompleted in2010. Insideit hasan impressiveart decofoyer and aninterior whichwas describedto us as beingof “ItalianStyle” and isbrightly andmeticulouslydecorated.The paintedceiling is quitemagnificent and has in fact had little moredone to it in the restoration other than cleaning.We were told that it was oil on canvasand is allegorical with angels and muses depictedcarrying musical instruments. Aroundthe edges are paintings of Murcian actors.The stagesafety curtainis againpainted oilon canvas,representingItalian stylemuses of thetheatre. It isthe only oneof its kind inMurcia, obviouslyrestored,but,we were told,not greatlyso. There aretwo balconieswhich encirclethe mainbody of the theatre and a small orchestra pit.The area occupied by the stage, plus that forthe scenery backstage, is surprisingly largeand airy. If you are able to go inside, takesome time to look around the balconies. Theforged iron railings are particularly impressive.The upper balcony consists of severalrows of wooden benches which encircle thetheatre almost at ceiling height. It is quite avertiginous area! The lower balcony has boxesentered through heavy red velvet curtains,with elegant wood and red material-coveredchairs. Boxes also surround the ground floorwith entry through very smart black and goldlacquered doors.If, after viewing the theatre, you walk downCalle de Cánovas del Castillo in the directionof the Archaeological Museum, you will veryquickly come across one of Jumilla’s mostcelebrated modernistic buildings, describedas being in Neogothic and Gaudi style. It isa house built in 1911 to the design of a colleagueof Gaudi, Juan de Alsina. An imposingiron framed window is in one corner and reproducesplant decorative forms. The forgedironwork was done locally and is attributed toa Jumilla blacksmith by the name of AvelinoGómez.If you continue to walk down the main streetfrom the Casa Modernista, you very quicklyarrive at the Town Hall (Ayuntamiento) whichis another very impressively fronted building.It hardly falls within the category of a modernbuilding, having been built between 1580and 1583 as the Church and Hospital of theHoly Spirit (Santi Spiritu), but it is well wortha glance. In the middle of the 19 th Century,it was transformed into the Town Hall. Evenif, like us, you were in Jumilla at a weekendand unable to penetrate into the building itself,do look at the magnificent iron balconywhich was added in 1984 and of local manufacture.Internally, it is said that the buildinghas a courtyard with a wooden balcony, amagnificent internal staircase and an impressivemain meeting room (salon de plenos).A little further still down Calle de Cánovas delCastillo in the direction of the ArchaeologicalMuseum, is the Plaza de la Constitución whichcontains the pleasant public garden, Jardinde las Ranas (Garden of the Frogs) in whichthere is a fountain with frogs at its base. Atthe back of the square is a museum, the MuseoMunicipal “Jerónimo Molina” which coversnatural science and ethnography with collectionsof minerals and fossils and items relatedto grape cultivation among its contents. Thestriking blue building at the bottom of thesquare is the information point for the celebrationsof Holy Week (Semana Santa) whichare among the oldest in Murcia, dating backto the 15 th Century. Interestingly, if you continuefurther from here up Calle Castellar, youare on the route down which bulls used to runto the Plaza de la Constitución during fiestas.We were told that there were three essentialcomponents for fiestas in this part of theworld – parades, explosions and bulls!Today, of course, Jumilla and wine are inextricablylinked. Indeed, viticulture in the areacan be traced back to Iberian times when cereals,vines and the olive were all known tohave been cultivated here. Though viticulturecontinued in the area in Roman times,it received something of a setback when theMoors occupied the region. Revival beganin the Middle Ages, but it was not until the17 th , and principally the 19 th Century, thatthe industry saw major growth. The modernindustry is regarded as dating from the mid-20 th Century with Jumilla’s Denominación deOrigin, dating from 1966.The predominant grape variety in the area,the distinctive Monastrell, is well adapted tothe soils and the normally very dry climate.The numerous days of sun mean that thegrape harvests are normally quite early, beginningin September and the resultant winesare less acid. Today, you can visit Jumillaand follow “The Wine Route” which is one ofthose developed throughout Spain for touriststo become acquainted with the traditionand customs of wine-growing areas, as wellas to sample some of the products! There isa choice of formal visits developed throughthe Town Hall, ranging from a one day visit totwo wine cellars (bodegas), to one includingan overnight stay with typical local menus aswell as visits to the bodegas. Group visits canbe arranged, including in English. Alternatively,individual arrangements can be madewith a bodega and there are often ad hoc excursionsorganised by outside organisationsor the Town Hall.Article by Clive and Rosie Palmer who havewritten several guide books on towns and regionsin Murcia. These can be seen at, andobtained from, www.lulu.com, or contactclive.palmer5@btinternet.com. Clive andRosie’s book, Exploring Murcia, Days Out isavailable to buy from the CHM/Costa CálidaChronicle office, Camposol B, Best Wishes(who also stock other of their books includingthe follow-up Exploring Murcia, More DaysOut), or phone Patti on 968 433 978.Page 78Costa Cálida Chronicle: Please tell our customers where you saw their advertisement tSales Contact Teresa 619 199 407 or for the Editor Contact Patti 646 005 017www.costacalidachronicle.com email: costacalidachronicle@gmail.com