Lord Jim of Dilling - Diplomat Magazine

O b a m a a n d B l a i r : C o n f e s s i o n s o f f a i t hspring 09 | APRIL–JUNELord Jimof DillingExclusive excerptsfrom the Dung Beetle Diariesof James Parker,a Canadian in SudanEstablished 1989 CDN $5.95PM 40957514Summer excursion: Through Maine by convertibleArthur Menzies at 92: Secrets of a diplomatGeorge Fetherling: To Bhutan and beyond

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The World in CanadaPUBLISHERNeil ReynoldsASSOCIATE PUBLISHERDonna JacobsEDITORJennifer CampbellART DIRECTORPaul CavanaughADVERTISING ADVISORCu Van Hacu@prestoncatalogue.com1-613-262-4908 or 1-416-600-4908COPY EDITORRoger BirdBOOKS EDITORGeorge FetherlingCONTRIBUTING EDITORSDaniel DroletGeorge AbrahamCULTURE EDITORMargo RostonCONTRIBUTING WRITERSMargaret DickensonBetty Nygaard KingJim ParkerMatt RenshawJessie ReynoldsPieter Van Den WegheKarel ZebrakovskyCONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERSUlle BaumBill BlackstoneLarry DickensonDimas FirmantoroSarah OnyangoFrank SchemeDyanne WilsonBen WellandBusiness ManagementJessie ReynoldsWEBMASTERLeslee McCabeDIPLOPORTAL WEB PARTNERSwww.diploportal.comAlastair SweenyRichard Evers(Northern Blue Publishing)PUBLISHER EMERITUSLezlee CribbADVERTISING INQUIRIESContact Neil Reynolds or Donna Jacobsreynolds.diplomat@sympatico.cajacobs.diplomat@sympatico.caSUBSCRIPTIONSDiplomat & International Canada is published four times ayear. Subscription rates: individual, one year $35.70. ForCanadian orders add 5 per cent GST. U.S. orders pleaseadd $15 for postage. All other orders please add $25.SUBMISSIONSDiplomat & International Canada welcomes submissions.Contact Jennifer Campbell, editor,at editor@diplomatonline.com or (613) 231-8476.DIPLOMAT & INTERNATIONALCANADAP.O Box 1173, Station BOttawa, Ontario Canada K1P 5R2Phone: (613) 259-3038Fax: (613) 259-5481E-mail: info@diplomatonline.comwww.diplomatonline.comPublished bySparrow HouseEnterprises Inc.Volume 20, Number 2Table ofCONTENTSDIPLOMATICA|Verbatim: Obama and Blair – on faith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Good Deeds: Piano laureates in residence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Diplomatic Agenda: The Canada-EU trade agreement . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Questions Asked: Diplomat Arthur Menzies, 92, looks back . . . . . . . 13DISPATCHES|Inside SudanA Canadian finds joy and despair in Africa’s largest country . . . . . . 16DELIGHTS|Books: On Bhutan, Tibet and giving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Canadiana: Gershwin's debt to Eva Gauthier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Wine: How to skip texting for wine advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31Entertaining: Make Mother’s Day memorable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Residences: The historic Swedish abode . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Envoy’s album . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Dignitaries|New arrivals in the diplomatic corps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41DESTINATIONS|Maine: A great summer destination around the corner . . . . . . . . . . . . 56ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publisher assumes no responsibility for unsolicited material.No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written permission from thepublisher. The views expressed in the articles are those of the authors. © 2007 ISSN 1190-8343Publication Mail # 40957514. Return undeliverable Canadian copies to: Diplomat Magazine,P.O. Box 1173, Station B, Ottawa, ON K1P 5R2

DIPLOMATICA|EDITOR’S NOTEA land of smiles and tearsWe read snippets about it, storiesthat tell us bits about Sudan,particularly Darfur, where thehumanitarian crisis deepens and thecountry’s President, Omar Al-Bashir,faces arrest on charges of crimes againsthumanity by the International CriminalCourt.But what is it like to live there? Whatis it like for the displaced thousands? Thethousands more who live in fear everyday?And what’s it like for a Canadian tomeet school-aged children grateful for thesimple gift of a pencil or notepad? We findout from Canada’s James Parker, a formerprep school gym teacher and part-timenaval reservist who wondered if he wasmissing something in life and ended upanswering the Canadian Forces’ call formilitary observers for the United Nations’Operation Safari. He was to be a neutralperson who would report to UN headquarterson what he witnessed, includingvillages threatened by nomads or soldiers,and infractions of the UN-brokered buttenuous peace agreement to end a 25-yearcivil war.Writing from the town of Dilling, hedescribes the homes of its 30,000 inhabitantsas being built from straw, bits of tin,burlap, plastic and rough bricks fashionedfrom red earth. He takes us to other regionsand tells us about his adventures ona heavy, rusty bike he bought and dubbed“The Beast,” and then festooned with aUN flag. And he tells us the story of one ofhis colleagues who wanted to raise a littlemoney for school supplies and ended upraising enough to build a school.His story is part diary, part essay. It willdepress and uplift you at the same time.And that’s fitting since he describes Sudanas a country beset by dichotomy: hope,despair, smiles, tears.If you’re in need of some spiritualityafter that read, we have an excerpt fromUP FRONTCanadian James Parker worked as a UN observer in Sudanand chronicled his journey in our cover story. He’s shownhere in a chopper where his primary thought was “Lord,please don’t let this old Russian helo crash!” It’s what hethought every time he climbed into one, he says. On thisflight, he and an Egyptian guard were headed to a villagefor “monitoring and verification” of troops, weapons andammunition, or to do a “village security assessment.”They would report everything up the chain, “to be swallowedand nothing ever done by the big maw of the UN,”he says.a prayer breakfast inWashington attendedb y U . S . P re s i d e n tBarack Obama andformer British PrimeMinister Tony Blair.Both are men of faithand Mr. Blair describesjennifer campbellhow his father was anardent atheist.We also have an interview with Canadiandiplomatic veteran, Arthur Menzies,who spent 41 years in the foreign serviceand served under six prime ministers.At 92, his mind is sharp and his memoryfor detail infallible. This came in handyas he wrote the book of memoirs PenumbraPress is publishing this month. But ifdetail’s not what you want, he also tells agood story about the time Pierre Trudeauvisited Australia while he was on a sevenyearstint as high commissioner.Our book reviewer, George Fetherling,offers a look at titles about philanthropy,Tibet and the “great, non-existent Bhutanconspiracy.” Food columnist MargaretDickenson writes about how to prepare aperfect Mother’s Day feast while wine columnistPieter Van Den Weghe tells us howto order wine in restaurants. We also lookinside the residence of Swedish AmbassadorIngrid Iremark. Dyanne Wilson’s greatphotography will make you feel as thoughyou’re actually visiting the amiable ambassador,whose home is full of Swedishart and Swedish furniture, some of it ultramodern,some dating back centuries.For travel, we give you a blow-by-blowof a perfect two-week road trip to Maine,an American East Coast gem. Among U.S.destinations, Maine is often overlooked infavour of Florida, but like Florida, it offersgreat beaches – and much more, includinglakes and mountains as well as funkytowns and sophisticated cities. Somethingfor everyone. And if the journey is part ofthe appeal, we tell you what you need toknow to drive there.CONTRIBUTORSJim Parker, author of “The Dung BeetleDiaries”Jim Parker, originally from Barrie, livesin Victoria, B.C. after having gone therefor graduate studies more than 20 yearsago. He has been a columnist; he’strained Olympic and professional athletes;and he’s owned a fitness centre.He has taught sports, recreation andanatomy at the college and universitylevel, and physical education at a prepschool in Victoria. He is a part-time navalreservist in his 22nd year of duty. Heshares a home with his partner, Heather,and is dominated by their dog, Judd.He enjoyed writing our cover story andfully expects to get in trouble with theDepartment of National Defence andthe United Nations for doing so.Betty Nygaard King, author of “Thewoman behind Gershwin’s career”Betty Nygaard King hails from Ottawa,where she earned degrees inEnglish literature and music at CarletonUniversity. She cut her writing teethworking as a communications officerand editor in various government positions.Her first book was Hell Hath NoFury: Famous Women in Crime; she wasthe ghost-writer behind the memoirs ofthe composer and conductor AlexanderBrott. By day, Ms. King is a subject editorwith the Encyclopedia of Music inCanada and freelance researcher for theCanadian Songwriters Hall of Fame. Bynight, she teaches piano and indulges apassion for “Coronation Street.”SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

VERBATIM|DIPLOMATICAFormer British Prime MinisterTony Blair joined U.S.President Barack Obama fora national prayer breakfastin Washington, D.C. inFebruary. Some 4,000people, including representativesfrom 180 countries,joined them. Their speechesare excerpted here.THE WORLDACCORDINGTO:U.S. President BarackObama and formerBritish Prime MinisterBarack Obama: ‘A momentof peace and goodwill’Tony BlairI know this breakfast has along history in Washington, and faithhas always been a guiding force in ourfamily’s life, so we feel very much at homeand look forward to keeping this traditionalive during our time here.It’s a tradition that I’m told actuallybegan many years ago in the city of Seattle.It was the height of the Great Depression,and most people found themselves out ofwork. Many fell into poverty. Some losteverything.The leaders of the community didall that they could for those who weresuffering in their midst. And then theydecided to do something more: theyprayed. It didn’t matter what partyor religious affiliation to which theybelonged. They simply gathered onemorning as brothers and sisters to share ameal and talk with God.These breakfasts soon sprouted upthroughout Seattle, and quickly spreadto cities and towns across America,e v e n t u a l l y m a k i n g t h e i r w a y t oWashington. A short time after PresidentEisenhower asked a group of Senatorsif he could join their prayer breakfast, itbecame a national event. And today, as Isee presidents and dignitaries here fromevery corner of the globe, it strikes methat this is one of the rare occasions thatstill brings much of the world together ina moment of peace and goodwill.Tony Blair: ‘By the way, God bless you all’The world participated in the celebrationof your [Barack Obama's] election. Nowthe hard work begins. And now, also, weshould be as steadfast for you in the hardwork as in the celebration. You don’t needcheerleaders but partners; not spectatorsbut supporters. The truest friends are thosestill around when the going is toughest.We offer you our friendship today. We willwork with you to make your presidencyone that shapes our destiny to the credit ofObama: “And then they decided to do something more: they prayed.”America and of the world. Mr. President,we salute you and wish you well.After 10 years as British Prime Minister,I decided to choose something easy. Ibecame involved in the Middle East PeaceProcess.There are many frustrations – that isevident. There is also one blessing. I spendmuch of my time in the Holy Land and inthe Holy City. The other evening, I climbedto the top of Notre Dame in Jerusalem.You look left and see the Garden ofGethsemane. You look right and see wherethe Last Supper was held. Straight aheadlies Golgotha. In the distance is whereKing David was crowned and still furtherwhere Abraham was laid to rest. And ofcourse in the centre of Jerusalem is theAl Aqsa Mosque, where according to theQur’an, the Prophet was transported tocommune with the prophets of the past.Rich in conflict, it is also sublime inhistory. The other month in Jericho, Ivisited the Mount of Temptation. I thinkthey bring all the political leaders there.My guide – a Palestinian – was bemoaningthe travails of his nation. Suddenly hestopped, looked heavenwards and said“Moses, Jesus, Mohammed: Why did theyall have to come here?”It is a good place to reflect on religion:a source of so much inspiration; an excusefor so much evil.Today, religion is under attack fromwithout and from within. From within, itis corroded by extremists who use theirfaith as a means of excluding the other. Iam what I am in opposition to you. If youdo not believe as I believe, you are a lesserhuman being.From without, religious faith is assailedby an increasingly aggressive secularism,which derides faith as contrary to reasonand defines faith by conflict. Thus dothe extreme believers and the aggressivenon-believers come together in unholyalliance.And yet, faith will not be so easily cast.For billions of people, faith motivates,galvanizes, compels and inspires, not toexclude but to embrace; not to provokeconflict but to try to do good. This is faithin action. You can see it in countless localcommunities where those from churches,mosques, synagogues and temples tendthe sick, care for the afflicted, work longhours in bad conditions to bring hopeto the despairing and salvation to thelost. You can see it in the arousing of theworld’s conscience to the plight of Africa.Ben wellanddiplomat and international canada

DIPLOMATICA|VERBATIMThere are a million good deeds doneevery day by people of faith. These arethose for whom, in the parable of thesower, the seed fell on good soil andyielded 60 or a hundredfold.What inspires such people?Ritual or doctrine or the finer points oftheology? No.I re m e m b e r m y f i r s t s p i r i t u a lawakening. I was 10 years old. That daymy father – at the young age of 40 – hadsuffered a serious stroke. His life hungin the balance. My mother, to keep somesense of normality in the crisis, sent me toschool. My teacher knelt and prayed withme. Now my father was a militant atheist.Before we prayed, I thought I shouldconfess this. “I’m afraid my father doesn’tbelieve in God,” I said. “That doesn’tmatter,” my teacher replied. “God believesin him. He loves him without demandingor needing love in return.”That is what inspires: the unconditionalnature of God’s love. A promise perpetuallykept. A covenant never broken.And in surrendering to God, we becomeinstruments of that love.Rabbi Hillel was once challenged bya pagan, who said: if you can recite thewhole of the Torah standing on one leg,I will convert to being a Jew. Rabbi Hillelstood on one leg and said “That whichis hateful to you, do it not unto yourneighbour. That is the Torah. Everythingelse is commentary. Go and study it.”As the Qur’an states: “If anyone savesa person, it will be as if he has saved thewhole of humanity.”Faith is not discovered in actingaccording to ritual but acting according toGod’s will and God’s will is love.We might also talk of the Hindu:“Living beyond the reach of I and mine.”Or the words of the Buddha: “Afterpracticing enlightenment, you must goback to practice compassion.” Or the Sikhscripture: “God’s bounties are common toall. It is we who have created divisions.”Each faith has its beliefs. Each isdifferent. Yet at a certain point each is incommunion with the other.Examine the impact of globalization.Forget for a moment its rights and wrongs.Just look at its effects. Its characteristic isthat it pushes the world together. It is notonly an economic force. The consequenceis social, even cultural.The global community – “it takesa village,” as someone once coined it– is upon us. Into it steps religious faith. Iffaith becomes the property of extremists, itwill originate discord. But if, by contrast,Blair: “When our courage fails, our faith can support it, lift it up.”different faiths can reach out to and haveknowledge of one another, then instead ofbeing reactionary, religious faith can be aforce for progress.The foundation which bears my nameand which I began less than a year agois dedicated to achieving understanding,action and reconciliation between thedifferent faiths for the common good. It isnot about the faith that looks inward; butthe faith that resolutely turns us towardseach other.Bringing the faith communities togetherfulfils an objective important to all of us,believers and non-believers.But as someone of faith, this is notenough. I believe restoring religiousfaith to its rightful place, as the guideto our world and its future, is itself ofthe essence. The 21st century will bepoorer in spirit, meaner in ambition, lessdisciplined in conscience, if it is not underthe guardianship of faith in God.I do not mean by this to blur the correctdistinction between the realms of religiousand political authority. In Britain, weare especially mindful of this. I recallgiving an address to the country at atime of crisis. I wanted to end my wordswith “God bless the British people.”This caused complete consternation.Emergency meetings were convened. Thesystem was aghast. Finally, as I sat tryingto defend my words, a senior civil servantsaid, with utter distain: “Really, PrimeMinister, this is not America, you know.”Neither do I decry the work ofhumanists, who give gladly of themselvesfor others and who can often shame theavowedly religious. Those who do God’swork are God’s people.I only say that there are limits tohumanism and beyond those limits Godand only God can work. The phrase “fearof God” conjures up the vengeful Godof parts of the Old Testament. But “fearof God” means really obedience to God;humility before God; acceptance throughGod that there is something bigger, betterand more important than you. It is thathumbling of man’s vanity, that stirring ofconscience through God’s prompting, thatrecognition of our limitations, that faithalone can bestow.We can perform acts of mercy, butonly God can lend them dignity. We canforgive, but only God forgives completelyin the full knowledge of our sin.And only through God comes grace;and it is God’s grace that is unique.SPRING 09 | APR–JUNUN photo

VERBATIM|DIPLOMATICAJohn Newton, who had been that mostobnoxious of things, a slave-trader, wrotethe hymn Amazing Grace.“’Twas Grace that taught my heart tofear. And Grace, my fears relieved.” It isthrough faith, by the Grace of God, thatwe have the courage to live as we shouldand die as we must.When I was prime minister, I had causeoften to reflect on leadership. Courage inleadership is not simply about having thenerve to take difficult decisions or evenin doing the right thing since often timesGod alone knows what the right thing is.It is to be in our natural state – whichis one of nagging doubt, imperfectknowledge, and uncertain prediction– and to be prepared nonetheless to puton the mantle of responsibility and tostand up in full view of the world, to stepout when others step back, to assume theloneliness of the final decision-maker, notsure of success but unsure of it.And it is in that “not knowing” that thecourage lies.And when in that state, our couragefails, our faith can support it, lift it up,keep it from stumbling.I finish where I began: in the HolyLand, at Mount Nebo in Jordan, whereMoses gazed on the Promised Land. Thereis a chapel there, built by pilgrims in the4th century. The sermon was preachedby an American, who spent his life asan airline pilot and then, after his wife’sdeath, took holy orders. His words are thewords of a Christian but they speak to allthose of faith, who want God’s grace toguide their life.He said this: “While here on earth, weneed to make a vital decision, whether tobe mere spectators, or movers and shakersfor the Kingdom of God, whether to stayamong the curious, or take up a cross. Andthis means: no standing on the sidelines.We’re either in the game or we’re not. Isometimes ask myself the question: If Iwere to die today, what would my lifehave stood for? The answer can’t be animpulsive one, and we all need to countthe cost before we give an answer. Becauseto be able to say yes to one thing, means tosay no to many others. But we must alsoremember, that the greatest danger is notimpulsiveness, but inaction.”It is fitting at this extraordinary momentin your country’s history that we hear thatcall to action; and we pray that in acting,we do God’s work and follow God’s will.And by the way, God bless you all.Compiled by Donna Jacobsdiplomat and international canada

DIPLOMATICA|Good deedsDiplomatic digs for laureatesDiplomats in Ottawa have beenhelping out a unique internationalpiano program since formerBritish High Commissioner DavidReddaway and his wife Roshan set theprecedent in 2005.Known as Honens, the program is apiano competition that happens everythree years. Pianists from around theworld compete for cash prizes and the potentiallymore lucrative “artistic and careerdevelopment program,” which launchesand nurtures their careers in music.Entrants must first apply and sendreferences. The 90 selected from that processwill compete in 40-minute recitalsbefore live audiences in Calgary, Munichand New York. Judges watch recordedversions and choose 21 to go to the quarterfinalsin Calgary in the fall, where thesemifinals and finals also take place over atwo-week period.In the end, there are eight cash prizeswhich include three for $3,000, two for$10,000 and then a first, second and thirdlaureate prize for $35,000, $25,000 and$17,500 respectively.The founder of the program was awoman named Esther Honens who wasborn in Pittsburgh but lived in Calgaryfrom an early age. She and her husbandaccumulated their wealth in real estateand in 1991, at the age of 88, she made agift of $5 million toward creating a worldclasspiano competition in Calgary. Shedied two days after the first Honens InternationalPiano Competition took placein 1992.Her goal in her own words: “My visionPianist Hong Xu performed at the residence of Swedish Ambassador Ingrid Iremark .is to identify the finest of today’s youngpianists, to bring them to Calgary in acompetition that is held in the highest internationalesteem, and to create a legacyof musical excellence that can be enjoyedby Canadians for countless generations.”Today, those competitions continue andall over Canada, there are donors' circlesthat support the program. In Ottawa,those who donate $1,000 per year receive,in return, two tickets to three concerts annually.Enter the diplomatic corps: The Reddawayshosted one such concert in 2005and last year, German Ambassador MatthiasHöpfner and his wife Christine hostedan event that featured the talents of 2006Laureate Hinrich Alpers, who is, himself,from Germany.“It’s nice when we can pair up a performerwith the embassy of their countryof origin,” said Keltie Mierins, who chairsthe Ottawa Laureate Circle committee.Last month, Swedish Ambassador IngridIremark hosted a concert that featuredHong Xu, of China. The third 2006 Laureate,Minsoo Sohn, is from South Korea soMs. Mierins is hoping she can convincethe incoming Korean ambassador to hostan event, once he or she arrives and getssettled.In addition to performing for donorscircles across the country, laureates of theprogram perform in communities – in hospitals,retirement homes, public librariesand community centres, and in schools.BRUCE McCAFFERYEMBASSY/EMBASSY STAFF & FAMILY SPECIALNew 2009 Dodge Avenger Special EditionAutomatic, AC, Power windows/locks/mirrors, Keyless entry,Side curtain airbags, 17" aluminum wheels, Power 8-wayseat, Sirius satellite stereo w/1-yearprogramming, and much more!THE NATION’S CAPITAL FLEET HEADQUARTERSFleet & Lease ManagerWe provide concierge servicesCentrally located at 900 St. Laurent Blvd., Ottawa, ON • www.ottawadodge.comf l e e t @ o t t a w a d o d g e . c o m • EMBASSY SPECIALISTS • 613-745-7051Only...$17,22910SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

diplomatic agenda|DIPLOMATICAEU-Canada trade deal: the right stuff to fight hard timesFIRST NAME: KarelLAST NAME: ZebrakovskyCITIZENSHIP: Czech RepublicPRESENTED CREDENTIALS ASambassador: Oct. 21, 2008PREVIOUS POSTINGS: Ambassadorat-Largefor science,technology and education,ambassador to JapanThe Czech Republic is the secondcountry from the big wave of EUenlargement in 2004 to presideover the organization. This is happeningfrom January to June of this year andour positions and priorities are not onlythose of the Czech government; the roleof the country presiding over the EU isto represent the whole European Unionexternally, to facilitate consensus withinit, to moderate and inspire debate amidstmember countries, and to implementthe agreed-upon work program. Thisprogram includes areas such as energy,transport, environment, employment andsocial policy, education and sports, health,agriculture and fisheries, justice, andhome affairs.The motto of this six-month Czechpresidency of the Union, “Europe withoutbarriers,” reflects the fundamental goal ofimplementing the four principal freedoms– free movement of goods, capital, labour,and services. Its logo, representing Europewith multicoloured two-letter symbols toidentify each country in Europe along withthe name of the website www.eu2009.cz,symbolically adds a fifth freedom, that ofinformation and knowledge exchange.On the other hand, Europe without barriersis certainly not Europe without rulesand borders. Removal of internal bordersand barriers must go hand in hand withprotection of citizens against illegal orcriminal activities that may threaten thesafety and interests of Europeans.Our priorities during this presidencyare epitomized by the “three Es” – Economy,Energy and the EU´s external relations.Within the last priority (externalAt the Prague EU-Canada Summit in May, the “main deliverables” should include the launch of officialnegotiations for a trade deal.The motto of this sixmonthCzech presidencyof the Union, “Europewithout barriers,” reflectsthe fundamental goal ofimplementing the fourprincipal freedoms – freemovement of goods, capital,labour, and services.relations), we emphasize transatlanticrelations and dialogue with our NorthAmerican partners in economy, climateand energy, as well as co-operation withthird countries. The ongoing negotiationsto draw up the Deepened Economic PartnershipAgreement between the EU andCanada is a recent demonstration of ourinterest in more intense co-operation.Canada, as a traditional trade partnerand important transatlantic politicalally of the European Union, has been apriority for strengthening our trade andinvestment relations, especially during thecurrent world economic crisis. In October2008, the EU and Canada released a jointstudy which concludes that trade liberalizationin goods and services will benefitboth the EU and Canada.The study illuminates a potential forimprovement in labour mobility, the environment,regulatory co-operation, andscience and technology. It recommendsthat any future agreement should includeprovisions on tariff elimination, reductionof non-tariff barriers, agriculture exportsubsidies, sanitary and phytosanitaryissues, customs procedures, mutual recognitionof professional qualificationsand the legitimate temporary movementof persons related to bilateral trade andinvestment.The “deepened economic partnership”is primarily about abolishing any kind ofbarriers to the smooth movement of goodsand services on either side. We would liketo open new markets and possibilities forbusinesses from the EU and Canada. Thenegotiations which led to this Partnershipwill send a positive signal to the worldthat both partners are ready to fight protectionismin these uncertain economictimes. We must ensure that everythingnegotiated during the upcoming processwill be implemented at the national aswell as sub-national level on both sides, toistockdiplomat and international canada11

DIPLOMATICA|diplomatic agendaVERNINI Versace classic & J.c.signum shirtstino cosmacerrutialbertoand moreOfferingExclusiveRates For Diplomats-At Accu-Rate Corporation ourteam of highly experienced currencytraders and foreign banking partnersallow us to negotiate currency priceslower than any other currency dealeror commercial institution.Accu-RateCorporationForeign Exchange & International Payment Serviceswww.accu-rate.caAccu-Rate Corporation2573 Carling Ave.(613) 596-5505Verninione location(Made to Measure aVailable)613-746-3452st. laurentshopping centreFor your personalconsultation please call:Marie BoivinManaging Director613-596-5505 ext. 101marie@accu-rate.caWorld Exchange Plaza111 Albert St.(613) 238-8454keep our relationship well balanced andflourishing.The Prague EU-Canada Summitplanned for May should concentrate ontrade and economic issues, foreign policyand international security, and globalissues such as climate change, environmentalprotection, energy security, cooperationin science, education and research,healthcare and medical research, humanrights and humanitarian assistance. But,the main deliverables from the point ofview of the presidency – and we are optimisticabout this – should be the officiallaunch of negotiations of the “deepenedeconomic partnership agreement” and thesigning of an air services agreement andan air security agreement if all necessarylegislative procedures are concluded.The Czech presidency started almostat the very moment of serious economicdownturn of the world economy. It is ouropinion that the key conditions for economicrecovery are to prevent excessiveregulation and avoid protectionism.Energy security was placed among ourmain political priorities long before theserious disruption of natural gas suppliesto Europe at the beginning of this year.As a country dependent on imports of gasand oil, we understand the importanceof energy security as a requirement foreconomic wellbeing and free and independentforeign policy.The crisis in the Middle East, whicherupted again at the beginning of thisyear, reminded us that besides our regularexternal priorities, we must also count onunforeseen urgent tasks. From our historicalperspective, the focus on the Easterndimension of the European NeighbourhoodPolicy, deepened co-operation withthe countries of this region, as well as thecountries of the Balkan, Caucasus andCaspian regions, are a vital part of ourforeign policy priority. A new agreementwith Russia will also be of fundamentalimportance and recent developments haveemphasized the necessity of a commonapproach by the entire EU.The main added value of our presidencyshould be consensus buildingamongst the EU member states andworking towards full implementation ofthe stated priorities of the presidency. Wehave assumed our task with the utmostresponsibility, keeping in mind the interestsof the EU as a whole and we wish todeliver as much as possible.Karel Zebrakovsky is the Czech Republic’sambassador to Canada.12 SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

QUESTIONS Asked|DIPLOMATICAA distinguished diplomat’s escapades with Trudeau,his passion for Fiji and his memoirsAt 92, Arthur Menzies is writing a book.And it’s about time he put pen to paperto record some of his recollections of a41-year-career. The career diplomat workedunder six prime ministers including WilliamLyon MacKenzie King, Louis St. Laurent,John Diefenbaker, Lester Pearson, PierreTrudeau and Joe Clark. He met his wife,Sheila, while studying at Harvard and thetwo had postings in Cuba, Japan, Malaysia(then called Malaya) and Burma,Australia and Fiji, and Belgium(NATO). His final postingwas as ambassador toChina (and Vietnam) andhe returned to the placewhere he was born tomissionary parents. Mr.Menzies retired someDyanne wilson27 years ago, but he still maintains a keeninterest in international affairs. He sat downwith Diplomat’s editor, Jennifer Campbell,to discuss his book project, among otherthings.Diplomat magazine: Tell me about yourbook.Arthur Menzies: When I went away to Harvardin 1939 to study Far Eastern History,I started typing a letter a week to my parents.I kept a carbon copy. When I gotmarried, we continued that procedurefor the 55 years that we were togetherbefore my wife got ill (Sheila Skeltonhad Alzheimer’s and died in 1998).So I have boxes of letters from allover the world. When we were in Ottawa– I spent half my time in Ottawaand half abroad – it was aseasy to pick up the phone sothere are fewer letters fromthat time. I decided it maybe of interest to Canadiansto see what theworkings of a highcommissioner ora m b a s s a d o rare. Half ofthe letters arewritten bymy wife, halfby me.DM: Your book opens by talking aboutyour time in Australia. Will it includemore than that?AM: It will include Australia and theSouth Pacific. When I was there, I feltwe should be paying more attention tothe South Pacific. At the time, they werejust establishing a university in Fiji andI got Mr. (Pierre) Trudeau interested inthat and we got CIDA to build a sciencebuilding there. There are about five millionpeople living in the islands of theSouth Pacific – I’m not talking aboutIndonesia. I put in a fair amount of effortas I was one of the first high commissionersto Fiji in 1970. I got volunteers,such as dentists, to send their usedequipment to supply dentists in Fiji andso on. During my time, communicationsbegan to improve.DM: You served under a number ofprime ministers. Tell me about them.AM: Yes. I think I got the job in Australiabecause my name was Menzies andSir Robert Menzies was prime ministerof Australia. Pearson thought a lot ofMenzies although he was more conservativelyBritish than Mr. Pearson was.There was Pearson, then Trudeau.Trudeau came (to Australia) in thespring of 1970 and he was still a bachelorat that time and he sent messagesahead of time to say he wanted to spendhis first weekend scuba diving off theGreat Barrier Reef. The Australians werenot very happy about this because theyhad had a prime minister, Harold Holt,who was drowned in the ocean nearMelbourne. But Mr. Trudeau liked thatkind of a challenge.The Australians sent three very goodscuba divers with him and they kept adestroyer with a decompression unitnearby. He was fine and the trip wasvery successful – he was regarded as anexciting, young bachelor. . . But it wassometimes the escapades that endearedhim to the people. A.E. Ritchie was theundersecretary for external affairs andGordon Robertson was the clerk of thePrivy Council at that time and theycame along on the trip to talk to theircounterparts. I was with Mr. Trudeau atall times and back at the hotel one nightwe had a working dinner. He excusedhimself and went to the bathroomdiplomat and international canada13

DIPLOMATICA|Questions askedand then he disappeared and turnedup with a most attractive journalist ata nightclub at Kings Cross, dancingcheek to cheek. The Australian securityauthorities blamed me but I told themI couldn’t go to the bathroom with theprime minister. He got a lot of coveragein the Australian press because of hisyouth and his desire to see the people,not just the officials.EXPERIENCE L'ART DE VIVREwww.signaturesrestaurant.com453 LAURIER AVENUE EAST613.236.2499DM: You were in the foreign service for 41years. What was your best posting?AM: Each of them was different. Australiawas undoubtedly the most natural andeasy and open one. You would get copiesof telegrams and confidentials. We hada very good relationship; they had thesame access in Ottawa.After that, I went as ambassador toNATO. That was my only posting toEurope and it was collective diplomacythere. Brussels is so centrally locatedyou can drive to the Hague or Bonn orParis in two or three hours on good autobahns.I enjoyed that experience. I also enjoyed,in a different way, going back toChina as my last post abroad because Iwas born there. I was fortunate in mytiming there in that Mao had just diedbefore I arrived and things began toopen up quickly. I was also posted inJapan from 1950-1953. I succeeded Dr.Herbert Norman, who was accused ofbeing a Communist. He wasn’t as far ashis service to the government of Canadawent. He was a very good friend of mine– and he was best man at my wedding.(Herbert committed suicide in Cairo in1957 by jumping off the Swedish Embassyafter suspicions of his Communistleanings were revived by a U.S. Senatecommittee.)DM: What stands out, from 41 years indiplomacy, as your biggest accomplishment?AM: I would say that introducing Canadaand Canadians to the emerging SouthPacific islands was probably visibly themost important contribution. I also encouragedacademic exchanges betweenCanada and Australia and we now haveat least 50 Australian teachers in Canadafor a year or two and vice-versa.There were little successes when I wasat NATO. There was a bad earthquake inthe Alps of Italy near the Austrian border.At that time, the chiefs of staff of the variousNATO armed forces were meeting inBrussels and I said to the chairman of thechiefs of staff that we had a field hospitalunit sitting in Germany and I thought itwould be great if they deployed it to Italy.He said, ‘If you get the permission ofthe minister of national defence, I’ll putthe thing in motion.’ I phoned the ministerand he said ‘sure.’ So our helicoptersmoved in and were there for about threemonths. It was also very successful inCanada because the Italian communityhere thought it was great.14SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

Questions asked|DIPLOMATICADM: Joe Clark recently spoke out about thelack of funding going to the foreign service.Do you have any thoughts on that?AM: Well, there’s a great deal that canbe done by the foreign service but thereare certain very immediate demands onmission time. I remember I had a missionmeeting in Canberra and the (Canadian)high commissioners from all the countries,from Japan through to India, werethere. Those in India, Pakistan, Thailandand Malaysia were complaining thattheir youngest, most junior officers spentmost of their time visiting Canadianswho’d been jailed for carrying narcotics.You have to look after all the consularstuff. Those are priorities and certainlybusinessmen are priorities too.On the exchange, of information onlegislation and on trying get at the rootsof problems, or giving aid in certaindirection, a lack of funding just limitswhat you can do. And, if you don’t haveenough money to get out and travelaround the country – say, in a hugecountry like Russia – you can’t do yourjob as well.I think right now the priority is obviouslyon the economic downturn insteadof foreign affairs. They will be trying toexpand and modernize the outreach ofour missions in the United States. I thinkit is an absolute necessity to strengthenthat. We ought to have a small office inmany more states than we do to help Canadiansget a share of the trade.The Perfect Gift forthat Special SomeoneA CELADONGIFT CERTIFICATE373 St. Laurent (at Hemlock)613 - 746-3500 www.celadonspa.caHAIR • SKIN • BODY • NAILSDM: Looking at the world today, whatworries you the most?AM: I think that in the process of tryingto control this economic downturn, theremay be a tendency to introduce regulatorysystems which will create more authoritariansystems of government.I think if China is dealing with itsproblems and a central government istrying to counter the drop in export sales,the Communist party will strengthenits position. The same applies in Russia.That’s what happens in an economicdownturn. One hopes the downturn willnot last too long so that we can see thelight at the end of the tunnel and returnto more private enterprise. A certainamount of regulation is required and Ithink we’ve been reasonably successfulin that.DM: Anything else you want to add?AM: Nothing except that I’m lookingforward to the launching of my book onApril 22, in the Pearson Building.diplomat and international canada 15

Di spatches|sudan16 SPRING 09 | APR–JUNistock

sudan|Di spatchesChroniclesof a Canadianin SudanBy James Parker“Hail the lowly Dung Beetle of the Sudan.It pushes its miniature version of Mother Earth around as erratically as its human counterpart.”– Lord Jim of Dilling Townf one were to look up ‘dichotomous’ in the dictionary, the definition could simplybe a map of Sudan, and a big map it would be, as this country is the size ofOntario and Quebec combined. Never was there ever a more happy-sad, hopefuldespairing,poor-but-with-potential, beautiful-but-parched, smiles-through-tearscountry in the world.And to top it off, the number of ‘players’ in this African country is mind-boggling.There’s the government of northern Sudan and its troops, which is supposedto govern the whole. There is the government of the south, the Janjaweedmilitia. There is the Sudan People’s Liberation Army troops along with theirpolitical arm, the Sudan People’s Liberation Movement. There is Muslim versusChristian, nomad versus nomad, nomad versus farmer, tribalism, invading forces(such as the Lord’s Resistance Army from the Congo, and the People’s DefenceForce from Uganda.) Finally, there are the NGOs, China and, just to give the stewmore flavour, the United Nations.diplomat and international canada 17

Di spatches|sudanWhat is this Sudan? If you wereto think of Sudan at all, andwestern media were your onlysource, you’d probably think it consistsonly of Darfur. Indeed, Darfur is in aworld of hurt. As we speak, governmentfinancednomad militia, known as Janjaweed,are terrorizing by murder and rapethe Christian settlers of Darfur. Thousandshave died and more are dying.But why has Darfur attracted so muchmore attention than the problems in therest of the country? George Clooney andother Hollywood celebrities have takenup Darfur’s cause and given it huge visibility.Rallies around the world attractthe attention of governments, pressing theUnited Nations and the African Union todo more. And they should. Sudan’s intransigentpresident, Omar Hassan Ahmadal-Bashir, has become an expert at applyingdelaying tactics – holding up supplieswhile Sudanese people continue to die.There is, however, another sad story inSudan, one equally gripping. We all readand hear the term genocide. It has becomean empty word that no longer conveysemotion. No pamphlets or magazines, nocolourful sound bites, no actors on televisionholding starving children in theirarms can prepare one for the sheer, life-alteringreality of a visit to Sudan.This is the story of the two Sudans – theNorth and the South – and the reason Ichoose to tell it to you is that I want Canadiansto know that there are other countriesin difficult circumstances where yourmilitary is serving, in addition to the muchfocused-on Afghanistan.Sudan is a country rich in oil, with 83per cent of it coming from the south.Cunning China has insinuated itselfinto Sudan, supplying it with everythingfrom manhole covers to belts, watches,clothing and other less benign items. Allthis in exchange for oil, which was a fundamentalfactor in the 25-year genocidalcivil war between north and south, nowtenuously quiet under a United Nationsbrokeredpeace deal reached in 2005.The various ratios and percentages ofthe profit-from-oil distribution betweennorth, south and local communities in nosmall way contribute to this tenuousness.So you see, this part of Sudan is like alayered cake. Add tribalism, nomads killingfarmers, tensions between northernand southern troops and fleeing citizens(known as internally displaced persons)moving from village to village.Into all this, I am dropped.18Flash back to innocent and insularlittle Victoria, B.C. Here lives JimParker, former prep school physicaleducation teacher, part-time naval reservistand sometimes writer. He is quite contentwith his West Coast life of outdooractivities and part-time military duty.But something is niggling at him. Midlifecrisis? Perhaps. Or maybe somethingmore.He believes that with living a privilegedlife, as we do in Canada, comes aresponsibility and obligation to help othersless fortunate. It turns out that thatlittle niggling feeling is the realization thatsimply writing a cheque to one’s favourite“I especially feel for the little donkies.”charity is too damn easy. On the otherhand, he is not an especially altruistic typeof fellow.The questions, then, are, how does onegive a real helping hand, and take a bit ofpersonal risk out there in the world, whilestill generating income? Answer: Lookto your naval reserve and the rest of theCanadian military and see what they aredoing out in the world and what opportunitiesthere are.Most Canadians would have troublecoming up with more than one worldlocation (Afghanistan) where Canada isoperating in some form or other. Try Sudan,Gaza, several places in Europe, Haiti,Sierra Leone, Congo and at sea in thePersian Gulf, the Atlantic and more. So theCanadian military, stretched thinly andunderfunded, is still serving Canada wellall around the world.It so happens that the Canadian Forcesis looking for service members to servein southern Sudan as military observersfor the United Nations on OperationEDITOR’S NOTE: Sudan’s persistentcivil strife since independence fromBritain in 1956 continues as it becamethe first nation whose sitting ruler hasever faced an arrest warrant by theInternational Criminal Court in theHague.In March, the ICC charged thatSudan President Omar Hassan Ahmadal-Bashir directed attacks againstDarfur “murdering, exterminating,raping, torturing and forcibly transferringlarge numbers of civilians, andpillaging their property.”The conflict in the western regionof Darfur has forced two million peoplefrom their homes and has causedas many as 400,000 deaths. Darfur’srich oil deposits have drawn theIslamic government’s attacks on thisprimarily non-Muslim region whereChina’s overpowering presence rangesfrom investment to armaments.Sudan is Africa’s largest countryat 2.5 million square kilometres, witha population of nearly 40 million.Besides oil and petroleum products,it exports minerals and agriculturalproducts – 82 per cent of these exportsgo to China.Into Sudan, this huge, complexcountry in upheaval – and not justin Darfur – the UN has dispatchedboth peacekeepers and militaryobservers. They remain, though Mr.Bashir responded to the ICC warrantby expelling NGOs that feed, shelterand provide medical care for one millionSudanese.James Parker’s story is a moving,revealing first-hand account by aCanadian who volunteered to serve asa UN military observer, and was sent tocentral Sudan.Safari. With Canada's large – for the Canadianmilitary at least – involvement in Afghanistan,opportunities for reservists, andnon-army ones at that, to serve around theworld now present themselves. Perfect.First, must convince partner Heatherthat this mission is not too dangerous, isan opportunity of a lifetime and won’tcause her too much extra work (Wrong.The dog walks alone will double.) Tell herit will get me out of her hair and produceextra income to fund renovations. Then,scrape through the fitness and medicaltests and various questionnaires. GraduateSPRING 09 | APR–JUN

24 serving as United NationsMilitary Observers. Our job asUNMOs, known on this missionby the acronym UNMIS(United Nations Mission inSudan) is different frombeing peacekeepers. It is,simply, to interpose ourselvesbetween the armiesof northern and southernSudan. We are unbiased, neutralobservers and essentially wereport what we see up the chainto various headquarters of theUN. This could be infractions ofthe comprehensive peace agreementas signed by both sides inthe UN-brokered peace agreement.It could be security assessments ofvillages in our zones that are havingproblems with nomads or soldiers.The Canadian team, two of whom arereservists, receive another two-and-a-halfweeks of training at UN headquartersin Khartoum. Much of the curriculumwe’ve already done at the peace supporttraining centre at CFB Kingston. Tryingto stay awake (while gettingover jetlag, acclimating to theheat and being bereft of TimHorton’s coffee) is almost impossible.I am to be deployed toDilling, a town in the state ofSouth Kordofan which is tothe north of the artificial demarcationline drawn after thesigning of the peace accord.The significance of this is thatSouth Kordofan is in the northbut allied with the south, makingit a primarily Muslim stateallied with a mostly Christiansouthern Sudan. While most ofour members are deployed tovarious team sites around thesouth, my Canadian colleague,Lieutenant (Navy) Janan Sutherland, and Iare going to Dilling.The town itself has approximately30,000 people and is centred around alarge outdoor market, with stalls, shopsand homes made of straw, bits of tin, burlap,plastic and rough brick made from thered earth that is everywhere. It all seemsrather temporary with only the mosquesgiving any impression of permanence.Our UN camp is on the outskirts andconsists of 50-60 metal containers ratherlike sea containers all in nice militaryrows and, fortunately, air-conditioned.Approximately an acre or two in size, sursudan|Dispatchesfrom the military observer course atCFB Kingston and, in typically militaryfashion, wait.Ifind out I am to deploy toKhartoum in April and all thepaperwork and kit accumulationbegins. Piles and piles of both.I’ll not recreate the stress of fillingout diplomatic paperwork, gatheringesoteric equipment forhot, austere climates, packingand bending over for moreneedles than acupuncturistsgive their sickest patients.Needless to say, Darfurit is true that Canadianmilitary members arriveat their destinations as thebest equipped and trainedin the world. All the aforementionedis done under theauspices of the Canadian ExpeditionaryForces Command. This isthe military organization responsiblefor all Canadian Forces activityoutside Canada. (The entity responsiblefor military units in Canada isCANCOM.)My story tries not to be amilitary or political tale. Thefollowing accounts are takenfrom The Dung Beetle Diaries,my journal that I – surprisingly– kept religiously during mytime in Africa. Often rough,emotional and clearly written onthe spur of the moment, it is agrunt’s view. I doubt my viewsand experiences are unique. All30 or more of my Canadian colleaguesin Sudan would havesimilar stories to tell. My photographsare the same, mostlyrough and unskilled. OccasionallyI capture some unique momentsjust from sheer volumeof shots. Picture-taking in Sudan is a riskall its own, as it is illegal to take photoswithout a permit.April 26, 2008The landingOfficially known as Lieutenant(Navy) Jim Parker, I stand atop theplane’s stairs leading down to thebaking tarmac at Khartoum InternationalAirport and wonder whether to turnaround, get back in the aircraft and returnto Frankfurt. It is hot. The people look anddress differently than they do in VictoriaSUDANDillingSouth Kordofan2005ComprehensivePeace AgreementlineKhartoumand there is no ocean in sight. What thehell have I gotten myself into? However,with the fortitude and determinationtaught to me by the Canadian Forces andinherent in my character, I wipe the sweatfrom my brow and climb down the stairway.The adventure begins.Operation Safari is Canada’s militaryparticipation in southern Sudan throughthe United Nations and is currently inits fourth year. Like other missions, theRCMP, Canadian International DevelopmentAgency and Foreign Affairs areinvolved on the civilian side. It has approximately34 members with aboutdiplomat and international canada19

Di spatches|sudanUN team members with villagers (with James Parker at back, centre-right.) Below: James Parker and “The Beast.”rounded by a shaky fence and guarded bya platoon of Egyptian soldiers, our camphas a cafeteria, showers and toilets and afew other buildings for the 60 or so of usliving there. It is all rather austere, but thisarea, surrounded by the Nuba Mountainsis astoundingly beautiful. The sunsets arethe most spectacular I have ever seen.15 May 2008–The BeastWell, three weeks have gone byand here I am in my UN trailer,still surviving. Let me introduceyou to my fellow team members: Kay andChat are from Thailand and are nice chapswho work hard and believe in “face.”(Face means to retain one’s dignity, selfrespect,humility and so forth in the“face”of say, someone else’s anger or abuse.) André,Peter, Gabrielle and Morten are fromNorway and Denmark. They’ve foundit impossible to leave their Nordic-nessbehind and are not happy campers in this20heat. Song comes from Cambodia. Leenand Hank come from Holland. Sigi andArne, who are Germans, are the best andmost disciplined team members. Ahamed,Mousa and Mohammed are from Jordanand Yemen, nice guys and tremendous assetsbecause they speak Arabic. The teamleader is Ionell from Romania, who does atough, thankless job very well. Finally, thebest of the lot, young Janan from Canada.They are professionals. They like to jokearound but they take their jobs seriously.I’m on air patrol (Russian MI8 helicopter)next week and am very excited.I decide to buy a bicycle today. Eventhe locals are laughing at how beaten-upit is. It is an attractive rust colour becauseit has not a lick of paint anywhere. When Iheft it, it seems to weigh 200-plus poundsand looks as though it was built in themid-19th century. But what the hell, it’llprovide cardio exercise. (My colleaguesfrom below the Equator run daily in the40-degree heat, no problem.) The bicycle isa much better way of interacting with thelocals than sitting high and mighty in ourbig white SUVs. With an antennae wiredwith a UN flag, I’ll be set.I see many disturbing things, at leastto my delicate sensibilities. Poverty, dirt,refuse everywhere and animals treatedharshly as working creatures or left to runwild. I especially feel for the little donkeys,which are the mainstay transportationvehicle, pulling water tanks, cartage wag-SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

sudan|Di spatchesons and families about the town. All thedonkey drivers have a rubber truncheonwith which to beat the animal to go faster.I know I am bringing in my urban sensibilitieshere, but really. So far at least, Idon’t feel impacted in any psychologicalsense. Maybe it doesn’t happen until yougo home? Perhaps it is cumulative? Maybeit takes viewing or participating in somethingabsolutely horrendous?A big rain-lightning-wind storm is approaching.The containers we sleep in arelight and made of tin, or something, forthe UN. Mine is all dented and twisted bybeing bowled over in the last windstormbefore I got here.I decide to ride my bike, dubbed TheBeast, home today. It’s hard. Either I amw-a-y out of shape, which is very possible,or I cannot function in this heat. OrI’ve never ridden in long pants and armyboots. Or there is one long hill. Or the bikeis made of cast iron. Or the brakes arestuck on. Or – the one I prefer – I am justnot used to this style of bicycle. I will haveto take it back to the bike shop, whichconsists of tools and a bike stand on thedirt, under a burlap awning, for a newcrank arm. The right one is wonky andpretty near breaks my ankle every revolution.Still, I get lots of waves, thumbs-upsand laughs as I sweat and wobble my wayhome. The bicycle is a big hit, outfitted asit is with UN flag and antennae. We are alwaysshort of vehicles anyway. I ride TheBeast throughout the tukol (clusters ofhuts) neighbourhoods, always garnering afew laughs and attempts at conversations.Some children run away screaming.June 1, 2008–The kids of SudanWow! June already. A thought:Looking at the encroachingvillage tukols, I am remindedof the growth of Toronto towards Barrie,my home town, destroying and devouringeverything in its path. These neighbourhoodslook more benign because thetukols are made of straw, wood, dirt andred brick. One of my Danish colleaguessays the earth is red with the blood of theSudanese caught in the war. However, justlike home, villagers consume all the localresources and must go farther and fartherafield to gather materials.Another thought: Janan and I go intothe village to get my flat tire repaired.Janan buys a table for his quarters. WhileI wait, I just stand there trying to takeit all in. I must remember everything.Wandering soldier (Sudan People’s LiberationArmy?) with an AK-47 slungover shoulder and full ammo pouches.Tailors using treadle sewing machines.Bike repair shops set up in the middle ofdirt roads. Garbage everywhere. The heat.Cute girls with trays of sweets for sale balancedon their heads. And of course, thetall, slim, beautiful Sudanese women withtheir languorous gaits. I know I will neverever be able to adequately tell this story.I ride The Beast through a nearbyencampment of straw tukols. This isthe equivalent to a Canadian suburb,"The children of Sudanand Dilling make myadventure. For themost part, theyare dressed in clean,pressed, if sometimesragged, clothing. Theywear brilliant smilesand are allowed to liveindependent lives, unlikein Canada where westifle our children withorganization and security."complete with shops (made of bits ofcanvas, plastic and burlap), tea and coffeeklatches, dirt soccer fields and ‘handraulic’water pumps for the women to fill theirhead-carried containers. Of course it’s hot– in the high 30s. However, both The Beastand I are rusty so we set out in the heat fora wee tour. I always enjoy getting on theground. These two-wheeled excursionsremind me why I am in Sudan, so I saddleup and follow the aimless and rutted pathsthat meander everywhere. I throw out myfew bits and pieces of Arabic and receivegreat smiles, waves and better English inreturn. Often I stop, especially around thewater pumps, just to watch and practicemy Arabic. When they find out I’m fromCanada, the smiles grow even wider. “Ah,Canada. Great country, Canada. We arevery happy you are here to help us. Vancouver,Montreal, Toronto – we know allabout your great country!”It is, of course, easier to engage themen and children, as the women are abit more cautious. Still, I am able to elicitquite a few smiles from them, especiallywhen I try to balance a water containeron my head and am not even able to liftit up. When I do get it settled on my headwith their assistance, I spill it all, forcingmyself to refill it at the pump. Still, I thinkthey think I am a good sport or possibly adumb kawaja (foreigner or white person)who doesn’t know any better. Watchingthe women work enthralls and saddensme. These beautiful, wonderful women donot rate high on the scale in families or society.There are, however, glimmerings ofchange as more women become educatedat the university level. But it will be a verylong time.The children of Sudan and Dillingmake my adventure. For the most part,they are dressed in clean, pressed, ifsometimes ragged, clothing. They wearbrilliant smiles and are allowed to live independentlives, unlike in Canada wherewe stifle our children with organizationand security. The ones not in school areenterprising and hard-working. This includesshoe-shine boys with modified oilcontainers holding their supplies, donkeycart drivers, plastic bottle scroungers,little street merchants, moochers, herdsboysand more. They play soccer onrough dirt fields and make skeletal goalposts of branch limbs. Their soccer ballsare so worn, they are held together withstring.So The Beast and I are bouncing along,round the corner of a straw fence, andthere are some children playing in the dirt.They don’t have Barbie dolls or Tonkatoys. Their parents are not watchingindulgently as they ride plastic tricyclesaround or suck juice from juice boxes. Justhalf a dozen or so kids playing in the dirt,some of them looking after wee babies.The fantastic ingenuity of their homemadetoys amazes me. One boy proudly pulls a“lorry” around on a string. It’s manufacturedfrom bits of wire, bottle capsfor wheels, empty matchboxes for lightsand bits of coloured wire and string for“bling.” He doesn’t seem to mind thathe doesn’t have an iPod or light sabre,although I am sure he would love thoseas well. I ride on after a bit – after his bigbrother, who is in the army, pumps upThe Beast’s rear tire. I’m thinking aboutthe huge dichotomy that exists betweenour two societies and if ever it could beshrunk somewhat to make things a bitfairer for all.diplomat and international canada 21

Di spatches|sudanA sandstorm approaches.June 29, 2008At school in SudanIfinally hand out school supplies todayto impoverished elementary schoolgirls, near Dilling University. It’s adirty school that’s falling apart but smiling,laughing girls look at us from thewindows and mill around us in theyard. I hope we can help them with moresupplies. Is this the correct way to goabout helping? I’m not sure. But it feelsgood. The principal is pretty emotional.I am embarrassed because he thanks meas if it’s all my doing and it isn’t. I haveto go back this afternoon to hand out thesupplies. I don’t want to – do not wantto hand out one little crayon or pencil orsomething to one kid. They should keepthe supplies in a cupboard and dole themout as needed. We give them painfullylittle. It hurts to watch their gratitude. Ihope my friends will help out.22These first supplies, probably threeto four cardboard boxes, consist of thesimple things needed by students: paper,pens and pencils, erasers, and so forth,and were left in our storage container by,I think, the previous Canadian UNMOswho had run out of time. In our militaryobserver team, only the Canadians andthe Dutch are fortunate enough to havehad their militaries organize mail deliveryservice and it’s huge for morale. However,the Canadians are restricted in what canbe sent via the Canadian Forces postal servicebecause priority is given to militaryequipment over personal things. So humanitariansupplies are a no-go, althoughwe are able to sneak some through, thanksto family and friends. Success.Every day, we see the children walkingto school. Every school – boys and girlsare segregated – has its distinct uniformand always these uniforms are clean andpressed. I see multiple children on onebicycle. I see little girls walking to schoolwith plastic chairs from home balancedon their heads, because their school hasno furniture. I see older girls laughingand giggling with their heads together. IfI close my eyes, these could be the soundsof children in any school in Canada. Theproblem is, I can’t close my eyes.A marked difference is the family ofnine that hangs around outside our campfence. Every morning, as the sun rises,they arrive, ready to collect the emptyplastic bottles we’d thrown over the fencefor them. Occasionally the mother is withthem, always pregnant, always smiling.Where do they live? What do they dowith the bottles? How can they stand theheat out there in the open? Why are theyalways laughing and smiling? Why arethey so amazed that I befriend their dog,Boutros? We give them old clothing andother items, which we are fairly certainthey will sell in the market.Back to the plastics, that wonderfullegacy left to the Sudanese from the west-SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

sudan|Di spatches“We give them painfully little. It hurts to watch their gratitude.”all the water pour out the doors. It wouldbe perfect if a fish or two came out as well,like in a Hollywood comedy.I turn around to winch him out andget badly stuck myself in the beach sand.I don’t follow my own tracks back –dummy. Have to wait hours for a tractor topull me out. The team is wonderful – twoJordanians, one Romanian, one Thai, threeSudanese and one Canadian – with greatspirits, work ethic and humour.Anyway, so much for being the expertwinter driver (“Driving in mud? Ha! Thisis nothing compared to driving in the wintersnows of Canada.”)The essence of this story for me is thejasmine flower overleaf. (I tape a nowtruly-wilted bloom in my journal). Theschool buildings we investigate all havebricked-up windows. Why? Turns outthe Sudanese Armed Forces (North) barricadedthemselves in them during theearlier years of fighting. Consequentlythere are bullet holes everywhere, insideand out. As I walked over to one building,I notice a wonderful fragrance in the airand petals on the ground. “Jasmine,” I amtold. Oh, it is such a great smell – calming,sweet, happy. You can still smell iton these pages of my journal. And here Iam counting bullet holes, while standingon a carpet of jasmine and enveloped inthe most peaceful fragrance. How sad.How very sad. Once again, the Sudanesedichotomy.In Sudan, taking pictures is risky business.ern world. The plastic bag and the plasticbottle are the most obvious and enduringlegacy of the modern world. They’re leftto lie everywhere, collecting on fences, incorners and in piles of dirt.The other legacy of Sudan, the children,are its future. But this sad country with itswonderful children needs help. Nobodycould visit and not feel the way I do. I callit happy-sad. Their huge white-toothedsmiles, which light up their faces, makeyou happy to see, yet also make you incrediblysad.August 20, 2008Jasmine and bullet holesOur joint monitoring teams alwaysincludes a national monitor fromeach side, a language assistant,patrol leader and two or more United NationsMilitary Observers. Our team is onpatrol in our white 4 x 4s. We know it isgoing to rain and we are far away fromcamp. Did I say rain? This is not rain aswe know it in Canada. Here, in the rainyseason, what pours from the sky is a rivergone vertical. Mix this with roads thatin Canada we wouldn’t even describe aswide trails and you have morass, whichis a word I have always wanted to usebut not experience. Thank goodness forpower winches and GPS.It is a wild day. Two villages, twoinvestigations. Wonderful kids at theschool, as usual. They come running outto look at the kawaja and laugh at myArabic. They are what this UN missionis, or should be, about. We do okay untilwe run into a flash-flooded river. I makeit across, with my yelping, pessimisticJordanian navigator at my side, screamingthat we are going to drown. I use the termnavigator loosely, as he still swears weare 20 miles off target when we arrive inthe village. But it is a close-call. Our teamleader gets stuck mid-river in his vehicle.It’s fun to watch everyone bail out and seeMy Canadian colleague’s schoolIwas fortunate to serve with Lieutenant(Navy) Janan Sutherland. Janan is inhis late 20s, originally from Windsor,Ontario and currently employed as aninstructor at the Canadian Forces recruitschool in St. Jean, Quebec. He is a reasonyou should be proud of the CanadianForces, and he is partly responsible forwhy its members rise to the top of everymission they are on. Quiet, super-competent,honest, humble and a natural leader,Janan was good company, especially sobecause he saw in me an older, sage-likepersonality and therefore gave me morerespect than I deserved. I milked it for allit was worth.We often made patrols to outlying villages,well off road and far away from ourteam site. The purpose was usually to dosecurity assessments to see if the villageswere having problems with banditry, rovingsoldiers, nomads stealing cattle and soforth. This day we ended up in Kortala,the home village of one of our interpret-diplomat and international canada 23

Di spatches|sudaners. Although set in beautiful countryside,Kortala itself is fairly barren, with strawhuts, dilapidated shops, some rough stonebuildings, wandering animals, no electricityand several broken hand-poweredwater pumps. In other words, it’s a normalSudanese village of several hundred,perhaps a thousand, people of the Nubatribe who are dependent on the crops thatsurround it.Lt. Sutherland and one of our languageassistants, Alnoor Haloof, had becomefriends over the duration of our tour. Alnooris a bright, educated and articulateman and a local historian, whom our teamcould not do without. Upon arrival in hishome of Kortala, Alnoor took Janan ona walkabout and apparently one of theirdestinations was the girls’ school. Youshould immediately rid your mind of thepicture of a Canadian school. Think insteadof three classrooms for 200 girls. Oneis under a large tree, the second in a strawtukol and the third is in a one-room buildingof rough stone, all within a spear’sthrow of each other. And know as well,that no government representative, NGOor UN organization has visited the villagein 60 years to help with their educationalneeds. This young Canadian officer doeswhat every Canadian military memberdoes while on deployment. He asks whathe can do to help.“I’m not a doctor or teacher,” he saysto Alnoor, “but there must be somethingI can do.”“School supplies are desperatelyneeded,” replies Alnoor. And so it began.It began as a request from Janan tohis family back in Canada for help topurchase school supplies for the Kortalagirls school. Then it started to grow – andgrow.The Canadians raised more than $10,000and, a few weeks later, Janan realized thathis project has gone beyond the schoolsupplies level. The word had spread backhome and the money kept coming in. Everybodyknows the good man that Jananis and that was reason enough to donate.Again he asked the question of Alnoor,“What should I do?”Alnoor replied, “Build a school.” Sothey did.While maintaining his job as a militaryobserver, and doing it better than most,young Lt. Sutherland oversaw the constructionof two classrooms and an officeto be built onto the existing one-roomstone school house in faraway Kortala, afour-hour-plus off-road drive in an SUV. Ifhe needed information, or needed to pass24“We give them painfully little. It hurts to watch their gratitude.”Lieutenant (Navy) Janan Sutherland ‘is one reason to be proud of the Canadian Forces.”some information on, he’d make a cellularcall to a neighbouring village and a relativeof Alnoor’s would drive the messageto phoneless Kortala. Lt. Sunderland’steam consulted school elders, drew upplans, hired an itinerant stone mason, orderedsupplies and planned celebrations.There were at least three major obstacles.It was at this point summer andJanan was deploying back to Canada atthe end of October. Managing a projectfrom a distance was difficult. And, mostimportantly, harvest season is about to begin.That meant all the men folk, tractorsand wagons would be out in the fields toreap sorghum. Still, the villagers realizedthat the education of their young womenis of paramount importance and were determinedto find a way around the issue.In the villages and farm areas of theSudan, tractors are of immense valueand importance. Families will share themand also use them as their ‘go-to-village’vehicle, as having both a car and a tractoris unheard of. It was quite commonto see whole families riding on a tractor,all laughing and falling about and strugglingto hold on as father veered thevehicle around the huge potholes of thenon-roads. These important tractors andtheir wagons would be needed to makethe two-day drive down to Dilling to pickup the special construction supplies notavailable near Kortala.The issue then became how not to disruptthe harvest work. In this country, noSPRING 09 | APR–JUN

sudan|Di spatchesharvest meant no food for the village. Ultimately,a few of the men, with two tractorsand wagons, made the long trek to Dillingin the fall. Tie rod, angle iron, and lumberwere all loaded. Janan paid the owner ofthe hardware business and the Kortalamen headed for a well-deserved cup ofchi. They would make the long and roughdrive back the next day. The supplieswould then be unloaded, the tractors andmen would go back to the fields and thestone mason and his mates would begintheir work.Towards the end of our deployment,we made a final patrol to Kortala. We hadsome idea that a celebration was plannedfor Janan, who was already blushing withshyness despite being several hours awayyet from the village. He really wanted allthis to be low-key, especially because hefelt his own contribution to the projectwas relatively minor. (In addition to managingthe project and raising the funds,Janan also donated a large sum himself.)We had two vehicles packed with militaryobservers and Alnoor and his family andthey bounced heavily as we navigatedthe rough countryside. Several hours ofoff-roading and we arrived at Kortala. Thevillage was turned out for us, less theworkers in the fields, for which they apologized.(“The celebrations are not as big aswe would like for you, but you see . . . .”)A wonderful lunch. (They watchedus eat.) Music. (Instruments made fromanimal tusks and horns.) Dancing. (Lotsand lots of wonderful Nuba Mountaintribal dancing.) There were presentationsof bowls made from gourds, hand-wovenmats and decorated ostrich eggs.Inspections of the half-built school (witheveryone trailing Janan and listening ashe made appropriate comments), speechesfrom the elders, beautiful singing fromgiggling school girls, exchanges of itemsand return thank-you speeches roundedout the day. It concluded with more dancing,this time including the guests. Duringthe ceremonies, Janan made a fine speechand presented a plaque with the names ofhis family and all the donors on it. It willbe mounted above the school’s front door.As the sun set, the day wound down –and we had several hours driving back toDilling ahead of us. Alnoor is considered ahero for bringing this wonderful gift to thevillage. And young Janan? Well, the villagersthink he was sent by God or Allah.Truly. How else to explain the arrival ofthis young Canadian and his subsequentgood works? Regardless, every villagernow knows lots about Canada and thinksevery Canadian is like Janan Sutherland.Best of all, the young girls of Kortala won’thave to sit under the village tree for classeswhen their new school is completed.January 2009Back in Canada, looking backThere are so many questions – questionsI’m tempted to ask but alsotempted to leave safely unanswered.Is the Sudanese government serving itspeople well? No. The Khartoum-basedgovernment has not put as much effortinto making the comprehensive peaceagreement function as it should. There isa lot of money pumped into Sudan fromvarious countries and organizations.Where is it?I wish I could adequatelyexpress what I haveseen and experienced inthe Sudan. If I coulddescribe what those ofus who lived Sudan feelin our souls. It wouldmake you weep. It wouldmake you laugh deepfrom your belly. It wouldmake you want to hopon the next plane overthere and, at the sametime, it would make youwant to run away.Should the United Nations be in Sudanor specifically, southern Sudan? Isit doing a good job? The UN is doing agood job of providing local employment,but that is just a side benefit of it beingthere. I thought the UN was supposed tosupport those of us in the field. If so, itdid an incredibly poor job, at least fromthe grunt-at-ground-level perspective.And what happened to all the reports wewrote and sent up the chain? We neversaw any response or action from higherheadquarters – unless we filled out a formincorrectly. The UN seems like this hugemonolith that is so cumbersome and politicalthat it survives by feeding on itself.We need something tight, small, efficient,responsive, quick that is on the groundand knowledgeable about all issues.Should the non-governmental organizationsbe there as well, and are they doinga good job? My impression was that theNGOs suffered from the same problemsas the UN and could have also benefitedfrom the same solutions. Once we got thelocal employees of the non-governmentorganizations to sit down and talk to eachother, it sounded like great things weregoing to happen. I left before I saw thisoutcome. The answers to these questionsare beyond my pay grade, and probablybelong in a book. There is no question thatI met some fantastic individuals – menand women with whom it was an honourand privilege to work. Some will remainlifelong friends. As always, the best part ofany deployment, training or course is thepeople you meet.The Sudanese people are simply andpurely wonderful. They just want andneed a helping hand. The potential in theircountry is huge. Tourism, fuel exports,crop production, manufacturing (clothing,metalwork, etc.) But, collectively, they needto develop the habit of looking to themselvesand their own resources, rather thanautomatically looking to the government.I wish I could adequately express whatI have seen and experienced in the Sudan.If I could describe what those of us wholived Sudan feel in our souls. It wouldmake you weep. It would make you laughdeep from your belly. It would make youwant to hop on the next plane over thereand, at the same time, it would make youwant to run away.Did I say dichotomous? I did learna few lessons. I learned to not preachwhen I came home to Canada. Peopledon’t want to hear it, even if they ask. Ilearned that I can do something beyondwriting a cheque to my favourite charity.I learned that there is beauty and hope inthe saddest places. I learned that Canadianmilitary members are, indeed, respectedaround the world. I learned lots of frustratingand disgusting things about theUN and a few good things. I learned muchabout myself, some good and some not sogood. I discovered that I do have passion.I learned that despite coming home at theend of October, the essence of Sudan isstill in my blood. Simply put, I fell in lovewith Africa and its people.Jim Parker is a Victoria writer.diplomat and international canada 25

DELIGHTS|BOOKSThe great non-existentBhutan conspiracyBy George FetherlingOur Books section provides a comprehensivelook at books on Bhutan, Tibetand philanthropy. Here is a list of the16 titles mentioned.Mad Dogs, James GradyJames Grady is a thriller writer (oneof the “50 to read before you die”,according to the Daily Telegraph inLondon) whose new CIA conspiracy yarn,Mad Dogs, has quickly made its mark withreaders — and with Hollywood as well.But it is unlikely to surpass the successof his Six Days of the Condor, publishedin 1974. The following year, that book becamea Robert Redford movie called ThreeDays of the Condor, its time-span obviouslyreduced by half so as to speed up the action.Either way, it’s quite a fine thriller,despite one enormous glitch in the plot.The protagonist is a low-level CIA employeein New York whose job is to readall new spy thrillers as they are published.He is to look for possible security leaksrelating to company techniques and gadgets.But he also stays alert for tricks andhardware that have come straight from theauthors’ imaginations but which the boysin Langley might consider copying. Hebegins to grow suspicious that so manyspy tales are being translated into Arabicbut not into any of the western Europeanlanguages. His curiosity leads him to uncoveran illicit CIA programme designedto safeguard America’s supply of MiddleEastern oil.Mr. Grady should have known, as otherauthors do, that the question of whichworks gets translated in which foreigncountries is purely as a matter of chanceand is not susceptible to logical explanation.One of my recent books, to use theeasiest example at hand, was publishedin Japanese (not unusual in the least)and also in Czech and Bulgarian, butnot in, say, French, Spanish or German.There was no conspiracy here. The resultswere simply a matter of which Canadianpublisher happened to have once had adrink with opposite numbers from Pragueand Sofia. In modern times, introducingpublishers and their editors to colleaguesin other countries has largely been thepurpose of the Frankfurt Book Fair (whichwas founded in 1480).Still, if one were prone to crackpot theories,one might be forgiven for suspectingthat there is indeed a Canadian conspiracyinvolving Bhutan, the ruggedly mountainousand predominately Buddhist state ofonly a million or fewer people, bordered26istockSix Days of the Condor, James GradyBeyond the Sky and the Earth: AJourney into Bhutan, Jamie ZeppaButter Tea at Sunrise: A Year in theBhutan Himalaya, Britta DasUnder the Holy Lake: A Memoir ofEastern Bhutan, Ken HaighChina’s Great Train: Beijing’s DriveWest and the Campaign to RemakeTibet, Abrahm LustgartenThe Old Patagonian Express, PaulTherouxGhost Train to the Eastern Star: On theTracks of the Great Railway Bazaar,Paul TherouxThe Great Railway Bazaar, PaulTherouxSaint Jack, Paul TherouxThe London Embassy, Paul TherouxHalf Moon Street, Paul TherouxThe Elephanta Suite, Paul TherouxA Blue Hand: The Beats in India,Deborah BakerA Place Within: Rediscovering India,M.G. VassanjiUnderstanding Philanthropy: ItsMeaning and Mission, Robert T.Payton and Michael P. Moodyby the topmost reaches of India on theeast, south and west and by China onthe north. A relatively short distance tothe west lies the somewhat similar (butHindu) state of Nepal, which is far betterknown, more deeply understood andmore often visited. For until recently, tourismin Bhutan was actually forbidden, andonly a small handful of English-languagebooks, or portions of books, were givenover to the strange little place it is today.Most of these were guide books, aimedat the sort of hardy travellers who havealready had their fill of Tibet.When Beyond the Sky and the Earth: AJourney into Bhutan by Jamie Zeppa of Torontowas published by Doubleday Canadain 1999, it drew an immense amountof publicity because of its sheer noveltyas well as its style. The small portion ofthe public concerned with the region wasprimed for the book’s appearance by theway Bhutan was losing its Shangri-la imagein the face of democracy, televisionand the Internet.Canadian volunteers have being goingto Bhutan for years. They have helpedthe society, which is wretchedly poor, inimproving its medical and educationalinstitutions, for example. One such humanitarianis Britta Das, a Toronto physiotherapist,who returned home with suchstriking photographs of Bhutanese life thatJamie Zeppa suggested she write a bookto go with them. The result is Butter Teaat Sunrise: A Year in the Bhutan Himalaya,published recently by Dundurn Press($24.99 paper).The latest evidence of what even sinisterand cynical-minded people could viewonly as a most benevolent conspiracy indeedis Ken Haigh’s book Under the HolyLake: A Memoir of Eastern Bhutan ($29.99paper), which lists Ms. Zeppa’s work inits wild-ranging bibliography of bookson Bhutan in various languages. Thathis book in fact has such a bibliographyis illustrative of Mr. Haigh’s publisher,SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

DELIGHTS|Booksthe University of Alberta Press, whosestrength (other than informing readersabout all aspects of Alberta) is the way itoften tries to unite high-quality prose withscholarly worth to reinforce that thirdstream of publishing: sophisticated booksfor educated lay people, works meatierthan most so-called trade titles withoutbeing so dryly incomprehensible as manyacademic ones. The U of A books are usuallyinteresting for their design as well.Mr. Haigh, another Ontarian, spent twoyears teaching in Bhutan, returning 40pounds lighter with “an infection of giardia,head lice, some lovely flea bite scars,and a tapeworm” — and a love of theplace that compelled him to go back for afurther year. His book is knowledgeable,thoughtful, humane and stylish.The Dalai Lama’s worst nightmareFrom his place of exile in northern India,the Dalai Lama, who sometimesseems to be the Martha Stewart ofeastern spirituality, must have had toconfront the facts in 2006, admitting tohimself that the jig was finally up for thedream of Tibetan independence. Whattook place in July that year was the openingof the Sino-Tibetan railway’s finalstretch, connecting Golmud in QinghaiProvince to Lhasa, the Tibetan capital.As Golmud already had a link to Xining,also in Qinghai, and crack trains had longbeen running from Xining to Beijing, theprobable geopolitical future of Tibet wasnow clear. Tibetans would be movingen masse into China while a great manymore Chinese would move to Tibet. Intime, the culture and habits of the People’sRepublic must finally Sinoise those ofwhat, since China’s invasion in 1951, hasofficially been called the Tibetan AutonomousRegion.Such is part of the thesis that AbrahmLustgarten, a writer for Fortune in NewYork, pursues in China’s Great Train:Beijing’s Drive West and the Campaign toRemake Tibet (Random House of Canada,$29), in which he focuses at considerablelength on four individuals. One is a teenagerthrough whose small community thetrain now runs; another is Renzin Tashi,a shopkeeper in Lhasa who finds that hisclientele is now largely Chinese.Representing the other side of the coinis Zhang Luxin, of China’s Ministry ofRailways, who devoted 30 years to furtheringplans for the proposed line, whichhad its origins in 1955. That is, at the samehistorical moment at which Dwight Eisenhowerin the U.S. was pushing ahead withown dream of the massive and massivelydestructive Interstate highway system.President Eisenhower’s intention was touse the freeways to evacuate American citiesif and when Soviet bombers appearedin the sky. By contrast, Zhang and hismasters wanted only to tighten their gripon Tibet. To this ambition, more recentChinese leaders have added the dream ofother new lines that would open CentralAsia to Chinese goods while taking out oilfrom Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan and theMuslim east more generally. The endeavourwill cover 21,000 kilometres and costat least US$100 billion.None of that will be easy, to judge fromthe experience of Cheng Guodong, thelast of Mr. Lustgarten’s symbolic quartet.Mr. Cheng was charged with figuring outhow to lay track across 550 kilometres ofpermafrost, equal to less than a third ofthe line overall. Other engineering challengesmet during construction of theGolmud-Lhasa line related to the fact that80 per cent of this leg is through countrymore than 4,000 metres in height and inone place, 5,072 metres. Of the many tunnels,one close to Lhasa comes in at 4,264metres. There are 675 bridges as well.Mr. Lustgarten is much too newspaperya writer to carry off the use of four disparatepersonalities to relate the story he hasto tell. As for politics and economics, thebook — the literary equivalent of an engineeringproblem, as all serious non-fictionmust be — is pretty thin on subtlety andnuance, as thin as the air in the Himalayathat compels passengers to reach for theoxygen bottles supplied by the Ministryof Railways.Writers of travel narrative, inhabiting asemi-fictional realm, often do better thanreporters at this type of fact-gatheringassignment, because they come with theability to reveal rather than just record.One example: Paul Theroux, who in the1970s made rail travel a popular topicagain with such influential books as TheGreat Railway Bazaar (1975) and The OldPatagonian Express (1979). Prior to theformer book’s appearance, he was considereda not terribly important novelist,if admittedly a prolific one. Now, slowlyclosing in on his 70th birthday, he returnsto the scope and sweep of those earlytravel books with Ghost Train to the EasternStar: On the Tracks of the Great RailwayBazaar (McClelland & Stewart, $34.99). Hisitinerary begins in London and takes himthrough such places as Iran, India, Burma,Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, Japan andRussia. Many of these countries are oneshe described 30-some years ago. Revisitingthem now, he is able to suss out howin the interim virtually all of them havechanged beyond recognition politically,economically and culturally.What hasn’t changed a whit is the personahe uses on the page. He always hascome across as a sourpuss, a dour travellerand a sometimes disputatious one as well.When you come right down to it, the voicethat narrates Mr. Theroux’s books (whichis not necessarily the same as Mr. Theroux’sin-person voice) often seems impatientwith foreigners. In travel narratives,Fine art fromCanada andaround theworldJustin Wonnacott photograph7 Hamilton Ave. N.Ottawa613 728 1750Cubegallery.caHours: 10-5pm(except Mon.& Tues.)diplomat and international canada 27

DELIGHTS|Booksjust as in real-life travelling, this can be aserious handicap indeed. This spirit liveson in the new book when, for example, hegets into a bad argument with the novelistand Nobel Prize laureate Orhan Pamukin Istanbul. Or when he describes a weeklongdrunk while heading homewardaboard the Trans-Siberian Express. (I oncehad a similar experience when I took thetrip in the other direction, from Moscowto Beijing. One had to drink because therewas precious little food on the eastboundRussian-run train, a complete contrast tothe westbound Chinese one.)In any event, I have always thoughtMr. Theroux’s finest travel writing is to befound in his fiction rather than his traveltales. One need only compare the Singaporedescribed in The Great Railway Bazaarto the one created, refined and definedin his novel Saint Jack. Has anyone elseever caught the essential feel of MargaretThatcher’s London as he did in the shortstories that make up The London Embassyand the novella Half Moon Street? You cansee this strange process again by comparinghis most recent work of fiction, TheElephanta Suite (McClelland & Stewart,$32.99), with the way India is conveyed inGhost Train to the Eastern Star.The point, I suppose, is that those concernedwith foreign affairs often stand togain by reading, not guidebooks, but thetype of travel narrative that serious literarypeople, ones as different as AnthonyTrollope, Mark Twain and Evelyn Waugh,have enjoyed writing as a sideline.Two other new examples also dealingwith India come to mind. They are furtherindications that the country seems poisedto become, at least among the authors,journalists and commentators of westernEurope and in North America, the mostwritten about and “explained” nationstateon earth, thanks to the combinationof its democratic traditions and startlingnew economic power.A Blue Hand: The Beats in India by DeborahBaker (Penguin Group Canada, $16.95paper) is notionally about the complicatedand somewhat romantic visits to the subcontinentby Allen Ginsberg and a numberof his fellow Beat writers from the U.S.beginning in the early 1960s. Just below itsnarrative surface, however, is an explorationof the strange hold that the very ideaof India has had on western culture, especiallypop culture. Has the common viewof India — land of elusive inner harmony,spiritual questing and shameful poverty;a place of such great natural and manmadebeauty, scarred by so many conflictsrooted in caste and religion — affected thereality? Yes, it seems. Ms. Baker (who hasbeen mentioned often of late as the editorof Barack Obama’s books) does a fine jobof, not telling us all this, but allowing us todiscover it.Then there is M.G. Vassanji, the topratedCanadian novelist who won thefirst-ever Giller Prize (and then a secondone, and, subsequently, it would appear,all other literary honours and awards).He was born in Kenya in 1950 and grewup mostly in Canada, and did not set footin his ancestral homeland until 1993. Hisbook A Place Within: Rediscovering India(McClelland & Stewart, $34.95) is an accountof that and later visits. It mixesmemory and identity in that way so importantin all diasporic writing. It is a bookwith much useful information, a goodnumber of sharp insights and a great dealof restrained passion.And finally, tis better to give than toreceiveUnderstanding Philanthropy: Its Meaningand Mission (Indiana UniversityPress, US$24.95) is a cogent andgraceful introduction to a subject of abidinginterest. It is one of those books thatdistils the experience of a long and distinguishedcareer in the field.Robert T. Payton, who shares authorshipwith Michael P. Moody, a sociologistwho was once his student, is a retiredprofessor of “philanthropic studies” atIndiana University, where he was directorof its Center on Philanthropy as well. Hehas been U.S. ambassador to a developingAfrican country, a college and universitypresident and, tellingly, the head of theExxon Education Foundation. So he knowsthe sector as both recipient and donor andhas seen at close range how it can helpalleviate social ills so stubborn that theyoften seem insoluble.One thrust of the book is the history ofphilanthropy. Another is an examinationthe how the practice, whether throughpublic policy or private foundations, isshaped by the national culture, whetherpolitical or religious, of the individualdoing the giving. He does not engage inthe moralistic nagging so often found inwhat is written about the subject. Rather,he is practical, calm, open-minded andoutward looking. The book is, well, a giftto its readers.George Fetherling’s novel Walt Whitman’sSecret appears later this year (RandomHouse Canada).28SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

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DELIGHTS|CANADIANAThe woman behind Gershwin’s careerBy Betty Nygaard KingMost of us have heard and enjoyedGeorge Gershw i n’sworld-famous piano concertoRhapsody in Blue. The jazz rhythms andevocative melodies are so widely lovedthat it is easy to forget that, at one time,jazz was new and suspect, and GeorgeGershwin was unknown as a seriouscomposer. It was an expatriate Canadiansinger in New York who introduced Gershwinto the classical music world that hesoon took by storm.The mezzo-soprano Eva Gauthier wasahead of her time. Born in Ottawa in 1885,she was the daughter of a civil engineerwith the Dominion Observatory, and theniece of Sir Wilfrid Laurier and Lady ZoëLaurier. After studying voice in Francewith the Lauriers’ help, she toured theUnited Kingdom and Canada with fellowCanadian soprano Dame Emma Albani,and became the protégé of Lord Strathcona,Canada’s high commissioner in London.A stay in Java followed; it was herethat her love of exotic music was formed.In 1915, she settled in New York where shebecame known for premiering new songsin her annual concerts in Aeolian Hall.Gauthier’s concert on Nov. 1, 1923was an historical event because she didwhat no musician had dared do beforebut has since become commonplace. Sheannounced she would perform Americanjazz and popular songs along with seriousclassical works – all in a concert hallreserved for classical music. She hopedto elevate her audience’s respect for jazz,which to that point was denounced andfeared in many quarters. She entitled herexperimental concert “Recital of ancientand modern music for voice.”Gauthier, clad in a black gown wornback-to-front, began her concert withsongs of previous centuries by Belliniand Purcell, and by living composers likeFrance’s Darius Milhaud and Hungary’sBela Bartok. Then, the visibly nervousGeorge Gershwin took his seat at the piano– the first time the 25-year-old had playeda formal concert. He was an experiencedrehearsal accompanist and Broadwaycomposer, but no singer had yet taken himor his songs seriously enough to engagehim for such a performance. Gauthierand Gershwin began with Irving Berlin’sjazz song Alexander’s Ragtime Band. Gershwinsoon abandoned his sheet music infavour of spontaneousjazz rhythmsand melodic improvisations.Aftermore jazz songs byJerome Kern and Walter Donaldson,Gauthier introduced Gershwin’s own jazzcompositions I’ll Build a Stairway to Paradise,Innocent Ingenue Baby, and Swanee,the latter already made famous by AlJolson. The audience then demanded anencore; Gauthier and Gershwin obligedwith his Do It Again.The legacy of this single concert haslasted 85 years, because the popular bigband leader, Paul Whiteman, was in theEva Gauthieraudience. He knew Gershwin’s reputation,and decided then and there to commissionhim to compose a piano concerto.The result was the now-famous Rhapsodyin Blue, which innovatively blended jazzrhythms with classical forms. Gershwinwent on to pen the masterpieces Concertoin F, American in Paris, and Porgy andBess. Eva Gauthier’s belief in the value ofAmerican popular song had launched thecareer of this beloved composer.Eva Gauthier and George Gershwinrepeated their experimental concert inBoston in 1924 and London, England thefollowing year.By the end of her career, Gauthier hadsung over 180 world premieres. Criticsand composers praised her, calling her apioneer. For introducing Gershwin to theconcert world, and for making popularmusic respectable, she occupies an importantplace in 20th-century music history.Betty Nygaard King is a subject editorwith the Encyclopedia of Music in Canadain Ottawa.30 SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

WINE|DELIGHTSHow do U choose a wine 2 go with food?Every once and a while, I do a littleof what I call emergency wine support.This typically involves receivinga phone call or text message froma friend in desperate need of on-the-spotwine advice: “I’m at the LCBO rightnow, and we’re having lamb burgerswith mushrooms and provolone cheesetonight. What do I buy?” I’m always honouredmy friends seek my advice, andI enjoy being a sommelier whether I’mengaging tables at Beckta, or respondingto a text about whether to go with thegrenache or the petite syrah.There are still many restaurant guestswho are afraid to pick a wine despite agrowing level of food and wine knowledgeand sophistication. People feel unpreparedto make their own choice, andthe resulting pressure detracts from whatshould be a relaxing dining experience.What’s a guest to do?First, don’t be afraid to ask for help. I’malways entertained when I overhear dinerswhisper that they don't know a certainwine, and then politely decline assistance.Not only do more and more restaurantsnow have sommeliers and wine-educatedserving staff, but the number of restaurantsthat promote caring, intelligent service isincreasing. Wine and wine-food pairingplay important roles in this, so spend yourvaluable time and hard-earned money inestablishments which not only understandthis, but are passionate about it. Ask theservers working in those restaurants aboutthe menu and trust the sommelier. Whenyou find restaurants providing excellentfood and wine with knowledgeableservice, take a leap of faith. Ask if there’schef’s menu, or, if not, if the server andsommelier would serve you somethingthey think is smashing.But what do you do when a restaurantis lacking such service? Some restaurantshave a massive collection of wine, butprovide no support. This is the kind of establishmentwhere one of the most dreadfulguest-server exchanges can be heard:“What wine would you recommend?”“Well, this one is popular.”This tells the guest nothing other thanthey’re about to receive the pop star ofthe wine list. Better to develop a smallamount of knowledge about your tastesand preferences.Though there are countless variables,food-and-wine pairing can essentially bePieterVan den Wegheboiled down to threebasic considerations:the weight of thefood and the wine,the acidity and thesweetness. In an idealfood-and-wine pairing,neither the foodnor the wine shoulddominate completely.Rather, it should be like a great dance,where, though one may lead, both playimportant roles. Choose more delicatewines for lighter dishes and heavier onesfor richer dishes. Acidity is needed bothto match higher acid foods and to cutthrough rich, fatty dishes. A wine needsto be sweeter than the dish with whichit’s served. That said, there are two go-toversatile grape varietals I always suggesta slightly off-dry Riesling for a white anda Gamay Noir for the red. They may notbe a perfect match with certain dishes,but they will pair very well with a broadrange of foods. Lastly, no matter whatkind of formula or proof I can provide toexplain a wine and food pairing, drinkOffering FreeCourier ServiceAlways ensuring the best service forthe diplomatic community, Accu-RateCorporation offers free courier servicefor embassy currency exchanges andpayroll conversion.Accu-RateCorporationForeign Exchange & International Payment Serviceswww.accu-rate.ca-what you want to drink. If that involvesdowning a massive Californian cabernetwith your seared scallops, so be it. Yourtastes are your own.However, when an opportunity arisesto place your dining experience in thehands of dedicated service professionals,do it. Your tastebuds will thank you.Either that, or get the cell number of yourfavourite sommelier.Pieter Van Den Weghe is the sommelierat Beckta dining & wine.Accu-Rate Corporation2573 Carling Ave.(613) 596-5505For your personalconsultation please call:Marie BoivinManaging Director613-596-5505 ext. 101marie@accu-rate.caWorld Exchange Plaza111 Albert St.(613) 238-8454diplomat and international canada 31

DELIGHTS|ENTERTAININGFêting MomMother’s Day in Canada, the dayset aside to honour individualmothers for the efforts, sacrificesand love they have so generouslydisplayed all year, is always the secondSunday in May.In North America, two church serviceson May 10, 1908, (one in Grafton, WestVirginia and another in Philadelphia,Pennsylvania) were the first observancesof Mother’s Day. The services were organizedin recognition of Anna Reese Jarvis,a community activist, who 50 years earlierinitiated “Mothers’ Works Days” in WestVirginia. Mrs. Jarvis organized motherswith an initial focus on improving sanitaryconditions; however, the scope of theirmandate quickly broadened to includecaring for the wounded on both sidesduring the Civil War and facilitating reconciliationefforts. Indeed, as the 19th and20th centuries evolved so did the conceptthat motherhood represented an on-goingbattle for social and economic justice forwomen, children and the poor. On May 9,1914, President Woodrow Wilson declaredthe first national Mother’s Day in the U.S.,to honour mothers who had lost sons inwar.Although the commercialization ofMother’s Day quickly followed, few of usresist the pressures of fêting mother on herspecial day. Flowers are not only popularand appropriate, they are also the perfectsolution for those who find gift ideas achallenge. Taking Mom out for brunch ordinner is another popular gift, one wheremore than just mother can enjoy the “collective”benefit of a happy meal together.But not everyone can afford that specialdining experience which mother deserves.And besides, what could please Mommore than the personal effort that goesinto preparing a wonderful meal just forher?I suggest spoiling mother with breakfast.For a fail-proof meal, try my “Fruit-Filled Lace Crêpes.” Imagine a large crêpeglazed with strawberry jam, then layeredwith a combination of fruits, enhancedwith touches of cream, syrup and nuts.Topped gently with one of my intriguing“lace crêpes” and dusted with icing sugar,the final product is irresistible.This is one of those unique recipeswhere the entire family can get involvedMargaretDickensonin a meaningful way– even the youngest ofchildren. (Or, of course,one person can do iton his/her own.) Tasksshould be playfully assignedand proceduresreviewed before the actionbegins. Makingthe batter, crêpes andslicing the fruit should be left to more maturehands; however, the actual assemblyprocess can be classified as child’s play.Don’t worry about the sticky spoons anddishes or the extra icing sugar dust thatmay clutter the kitchen counter top at theend of this team exercise. Leave the cleanupbehind for later. Instead, turn on themusic, sit down to an attractively set tableand enjoy your breakfast treat with Mom.If you’re more inclined to cook dinnerfor Mom, keep it simple so that the entireday is not spent in the kitchen. Whichmother would not delight in a smokedsalmon starter of some kind? Move on toa main course of your choice or perhaps apetit fillet mignon on mushroom wild riceand topped with nutmeg-scented butteredfiddleheads. (Note: Fiddleheads shouldbe making their debut on local markets atthat time.) For dessert, modify the Fruit-Filled Lace Crêpes recipe to about half itssize. Take a moment to salute Mom andFruit-filled lace crêpesthen savour her enthusiastic response toyour creative culinary efforts, all in celebrationof her well-deserved day.Happy Mother’s Day and bon appetit.Margaret Dickenson is author of theinternational award-winning cookbookMargaret’s Table – Easy Cooking & InspiringEntertaining. See www.margaretstable.cafor more.Fruit-filled lace crêpesMakes 4 servings2 cups (250 mL) crêpe batter (recipe follows),divided2 cups (500 mL) fresh strawberries (stemsremoved and sliced) or other berries ordiced mango3 cups (750 mL) banana, sliced1 tbsp (15 mL) orange-flavoured liqueur,optional3 tbsp (45 mL) strawberry jam1/4 cup (60 mL) double ginger sour creamsauce* or crème fraîche or yogurt3 tbsp (45 mL) creamy butterscotch dessertsauce or maple syrup2 tbsp (30 mL) toasted slivered almonds orchopped pecans, optional1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped chocolate, optionalGarnish (optional)As desired whole fresh strawberries and/Larry Dickenson32SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

ENTERTAINING|DELIGHTSor sprigs of fresh mint1/2 cup (125 mL) maple syrup (extra, forpassing)1. In a large non-stick skillet/crêpe panover medium-low heat, prepare fourlarge crêpes (diameter: 7 inch or 17 cm).For each crêpe, pour 1/4 cup (60 mL) ofbatter into centre of the skillet/crêpe pan.Quickly tilt and rotate skillet to form athin, even crêpe. Cook until edges begin toturn golden and top surface is set.2. Using a pancake flipper, carefully peelcrêpe from skillet, turn and cook secondside briefly (seconds). Transfer each to aseparate individual dinner plate.3. With remaining batter, make four “LaceCrêpes.” Using about 1/4 cup (60 mL) ofbatter for each crêpe, first quickly drizzlea ring about the same diameter as the preparedcrêpes and then continue to drizzlein a haphazard manner within ring toform a thin “lace” crêpe. Cook until topsurface is set.4. Using a pancake flipper, carefully peellace crêpe away from skillet and turn; cooksecond side briefly. Remove from skilletand stack on a plate, separating each crêpewith a piece of parchment paper; set aside.5. Place sliced bananas and strawberries inseparate bowls; bathe with liqueur.6. Using about 1/4 of total amount foreach crêpe, spread strawberry jam evenlyover each plated crêpe (i.e., regular crêpe),add bananas and dabs of double gingersour cream sauce. Drizzle with butterscotchsauce, top with sliced strawberries,toasted nuts and chopped chocolate.7. Top each fruit-garnished crêpe with alace crêpe enclosing the fruit mixture betweenthe crêpes.8. Using a fine meshed small sieve, dustthe top surface with icing sugar; garnishwith whole fresh strawberries and/orsprigs of fresh mint. Pass maple syrup attable.* To make the double ginger sour creamsauce, stir together 1/3 cup (80 mL) ofsour cream, 1 1/2 tbsp (23 mL) of icingsugar, 2 tsp (10 mL) of chopped ginger insyrup, 1/3 tsp (2 mL) of ground gingerand if desired, 1/3 tsp (2 mL) of Armagnacliqueur or Cognac. (Makes 1/3 cup or 80mL of sauce.) Store the sauce refrigeratedfor up to 10 days. (Note: Ginger in syrupis different from candied ginger. Both areavailable in health food stores.)Time Saving tip: Using an “assembly line”technique, these fruit filled lace crêpes aresimple and quick to prepare.Crêpe BatterMakes 10 crêpes (diameter 7 inch)1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour1 1/2 tsp (8 mL) granulated sugar1/8 tsp (Pinch) ground ginger2 eggs2 egg yolks1 1/2 cups (375 mL) milk, divided1/4 cup (60 mL) unsalted butter or margarine,melted1. In a medium bowl, sift together flour,sugar and ground ginger.2. In another medium bowl, using an electricmixer, beat together eggs, yolks and3/4 cup (about 180 mL) milk.3. Continuing to beat constantly at lowspeed, gradually add 1/2 cup (125 mL) offlour mixture, then remaining milk (3/4cup or 180 mL) and remaining flour mixture(1/2 cup or 125 mL). Beat to form asmooth batter.4. Beat in melted butter. (Note: If batteris not perfectly smooth, pass it through acourse mesh sieve.)5. Allow batter to rest for at least 30 minutesbefore using.6. Whisk batter thoroughly before using.Ma cuisinediplomat and international canada 33

DELIGHTS|residencesThe home that Keefer builtAllan Keefer was the architect for many diplomatic residences including those of the Austrian, Spanish,Argentinean, Japanese, Indonesian and Egyptian ambassadorsJennifer CampbellDyanne WilsonThe home of Swedish Ambassador Ingrid Iremark, and her husband, Thomas Thornquist, is an elegant Rockcliffe manor with a dynamite view of theOttawa River.The stately brick home with a commandingview of the Ottawa Rivermay not look it from the outside, butinside it’s a showcase for Swedish furnishingsand art.“This is not our home, it is Sweden’shome,” says Ingrid Iremark, ambassadorof Sweden, who lives at 700 Manor Ave.with her husband, Thomas Thornquist.Early in her tenure in Ottawa, two designersfrom the foreign ministry visitedthe residence for a couple of days and cameup with ideas for new furnishings and art.“They made some suggestions and wehad some say,” Ms. Iremark said. “I don’tlove everything here but I think it functionswell. We have light furniture andit’s easy to take away when we have largefunctions, which we do often.”The same week Diplomat visited, they34had hosted a piano recital and fundraiserand that meant making room for a grandpiano. The home is well-suited for biggroups as its usual furnishings are arrangedin small sitting areas, leaving lotsof open space.The large receiving room in the middleof the home has a fireplace to the left andtwo sitting areas. There’s a cozy diningroom for six or eight facing the front of thehome, and a large dining room along theback, with huge picture windows overlookingthe river.For sit-down dinners, the large diningroom can accommodate 22 guests andfeatures a hutch that dates back to the 18thcentury. It’s been restored and paintedred, which would have been its originalcolour. While it emphatically declares itsantiquity, there are also modern accents inthis bright room, including a mushroomshapedpale blue curiosity that is kneehighfrom the floor.“I think residences should have thiskind of thing,” Ms. Iremark said of thepiece which was recently created bySwedish artist Anders Ruhwald and haswhat looks like a sink drain in the top.“People sometimes wonder if you shouldput a candle (in the drain).”To the left of the main receiving room,there’s another, smaller sitting room, withanother big window. There’s also a prettysun room with tiled floors, and a suitablydark-walled study. The latter was an additionto the original 1913 home, built forThomas Coltrin Keefer Jr., grandson ofengineer T.C. Keefer, who had originallysubdivided Rockcliffe Park Village in 1864.Keefer Jr.’s architect was his brother, Allan,SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

esidences|DELIGHTSCOMMITTED TO QUALITYINSPIRED BY DESIGNall photos Dyanne WilsonClockwise from top left: Ms. Iremark’s formal dinnerware; one of many sitting areas; the expansive diningroom which features an 18th century hutch.who chose a Queen Anne Revival style forthe home.Thomas Keefer wasn’t there long. Aftersome financial difficulty, he sold thehouse in 1919 to James Williams Woods,for $30,000. Woods then turned around ayear later and sold it for $35,000 to GilbertFauquier. It was he who built an adjoining“cottage,” now used as a home for theembassy’s second secretary, Birgitta Ewing.The Swedish government bought theproperties in 1944, becoming the secondcountry to buy a residence in Rockcliffe.Today, there are many more official residencesin the neighbourhood and Keeferdesigned a handful of them. Indeed, inthe 1990s the then Spanish ambassadorstarted a club for those who lived inKeefer homes. Members included the ambassadorsof Austria, Egypt, Argentina, Indonesiaand Japan. Stornoway, the officialresidence of the leader of the opposition, isalso a Keefer home.Today, the home, which has had at leasttwo additions, has a handful of fireplacesand 16 rooms, seven of them bedrooms.Two bedrooms are in the private quartersof Ms. Iremark and Mr. Thornquist whilethe other five are for guests.The envoy and her husband are quitehappy in the expansive abode they’vecalled home for the past 3½ years. In winter,they create a track around the property forcross-country skiing and use it almost daily.For staff, they have a full-time Canadianchef, and a housekeeper. They bringin part-time help for large-scale partiesand receptions.Jennifer Campbell is Diplomat's editorPlan a perfect room.Live happily ever after.Custom window coveringsShuttersBlindsFurnitureUpholsterySlipcoversBedcoveringsHardwareDesigner showroom &professional workroom on premises1134 Bank Street(near Sunnyside)613.730.9090www.elitedraperies.cadiplomat and international canada 35

DELIGHTS|envoy’s album1. 2.5.3.4.THIS PAGE 1. Jean Augustine, former secretary of state for multiculturalism and the status of women,and Evadne Coye, Jamaican high commissioner, took part in a reception March 10 at Ottawa CityHall, hosted by the Black Women’s Civic Engagement Network to honour Canadian women who playleading civic roles. Ms. Augustine was given an award. (Photo: Sarah Onyango) • 2. Chinese ambassadorLan Lijun (right) and his wife, Gu Langlin, attended the China Spring Festival Gala 2009 at theNational Arts Centre, Jan. 16. They are shown with Filipino Ambassador Jose Brillantes. (Photo: FrankScheme) • 3. The embassy of Kuwait held its national day party at the National Gallery of Canada,Feb. 25. In attendance were Meshal Alhubail, third secretary at the embassy, and his wife, Athari. •4. A “shrimp tree” at the Kuwaiti National Day event. • 5. Defence Minister Peter MacKay showedup at the annual Black & White Opera Soirée at the National Arts Centre with his girlfriend, JanaJuginovic, director of news and programming for CTV NewsNet. (Photos: Dyanne Wilson)36SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

envoy’s album|DELIGHTS1.2.3.5.THIS PAGE 1. (From left) Borodin Quartet violinists Andrei Abramenkov and Ruben Aharonian played4.at the Dominion-Chalmers United Church Jan. 18. They are shown with former EU ambassador DorianPrince and Glenn Hodgins, executive director of the Ottawa Chamber Music Society. (Photo: Bill Blackstone.)• 2. Austrian Ambassador Werner Brandstetter and his wife, Leonie, make their entrance atthe 13th annual Viennese Ball at the National Gallery Feb. 7. • 3. New Brunswick was a featuredprovince at Winterlude. Premier Shawn Graham dropped by a British Council stand where Cape FarewellYouth Explorers were discussing their Arctic adventures and their climate change project. Fromleft, Nicole Sanscartier, a student from Rothesay High School in New Brunswick, with Margret Brady,of the British Council, and Mr. Graham. (Photo: Gordon Metcalfe) • 4. The Indonesian Embassyhosted a South Sumatran marriage celebration. Tasha Fikrie (the bride, shown here, doing her traditional“last dance”) and Daniel Damphousse agreed to share their wedding with a wider audience. •5. Young women dance as part of the wedding celebrations. (Photos: Dimas Firmantoro)diplomat and international canada 37

DIGNITARIES|NEW ARRIVALSNew Heads of MissionJustin BrownHigh Commissioner for AustraliaBefore coming to Canada, Mr. Brownheaded up the secretariat to review exportpolicies and programs. Prior to that, hewas a member of the secretariat to theprime ministerial task group on emissionstrading and was involved in APEC workon climate change.Mr. Brown, who joined the foreign servicein 1987, has served as ambassador forthe environment (2004), head of the Asiatrade task force (2002 to 2004), assistantsecretary, Europe branch (1997 to 1998);and assistant secretary, Americas branch(1994 to 1997). He’s been posted as consul-generalin Los Angeles (2006), deputyhead of mission to the EU (1999-2001) andfirst secretary in Copenhagen (1988-91).He has a bachelor of economics degreefrom the University of New England. Heis married to Caroline Linkey and speaksFrench.Shashishekhar M. GavaiHigh Commissioner for IndiaMr. Gavai joined the Indian Foreign Servicein 1975, after graduating in historyfrom Fergusson College, Pune, India Sincethen, he has served in several importantassignments in India and abroad.In the ministry of external affairs, Mr.Gavai has been head of division for theSouth Asian Association for Regional Cooperation,head of the administration division,head of the northern division andIndia’s chief of protocol.Abroad, Mr. Gavai has served in India’sdiplomatic missions in Yugoslavia, Hungary,Zimbabwe, Indonesia, Germany,Scotland (as consul general), Maldives (ashigh commissioner), and in Houston, U.S.(as consul general).Mr. Gavai is married to Rina and theyhave two sons.Selwyn Vijayarajan DasHigh Commissioner for MalaysiaMr. Das became a member of Malaysia’sadministrative and diplomatic service in1979, after he completed a BA and diplomasin public management. He’s spentmost of his career, which has includedgetting a law degree from the Universityof London (1989) and a master’s ofbusiness administration (1999), in othergovernment departments. For the first sixyears of his career, he worked as assistantsecretary in the petroleum developmentunit of the prime minister’s department.He then served as assistant director in theinfrastructure division before moving to financefor seven years. In 2000, he returnedto foreign affairs as assistant secretary. In2003, he was appointed deputy chief ofmission in Thailand. He was high commissionerto Kenya in 2005 and came toCanada from that posting.He is married to Hannah Olive RenukaDevanesan and has two children.Francisco Barrio TerrazasAmbassador of MexicoBorn in Satevo, Chihuahua, Mr. Barrio Terrazasis a public accountant and graduateof the Autonomous University of Chihuahua.When former President Vicente Fox38SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

NEW ARRIVALS | DIGNITARIESbegan his term, Mr. Barrio Terrazas wasappointed to head of the federal comptroller’ssecretariat, a position he held forthree years. In 2003, he served as a federaldeputy and coordinated the parliamentarygroup of the National Action Party, ofwhich he was an active member. In 2005,he joined the presidential leadership racein advance of the federal electoral campaignof 2006.Also in politics, Mr. Barrio Terrazashas served as mayor of Ciudad Juárezand governor of the State of Chihuahua,a post he held from 1992 to 1998. Duringthe 1980s he led the opposition party inChihuahua.Pedro Luis Baptista Moitinho de AlmeidaAmbassador of Portugalmonths in 2007.Mr. Almeida has an economics degree.He is married and has two daughters.Enrique DelgadoAmbassador of UruguayMr. Delgado joined the ministry of foreignaffairs in 1975 as third secretary andworked in the ministry in various capacitiesbetween postings. In 1979, he was appointedUruguay’s consul to Sao Paulo,Brazil, and in 1988 as minister-counselor tothe mission in Venezuela.The following year, he took the sameposition in Argentina. In 1997, he was appointedambassador to Nicaragua (basedin El Salvador) and a year later, he becamechief of the Uruguay delegation to theFree Trade of the Americas market accessgroup. In 2004, he became ambassador toMexico.Mr. Delgado has a master’s degree ininternational law from the University ofSao Paulo, Brazil. He is married to LidiaDe Leon de Delgado and has two children.Khaled Mahfoodh BahahAmbassador of YemenBefore becoming ambassador to Canada,Mr. Bahah spent two years as minister ofoil and minerals where he managed someMr. Almeida is a career diplomat whojoined the ministry of foreign affairs in1975 as an attaché. Four years later, hewas posted to Greece and in 1984, he wassent to Cape Verde. Back at the ministry,he worked as head of the multilateraldepartment and then director of the Africandesk before going to Barcelona asconsul-general in 1993. He then workedas head of several delegations and missionsincluding the EU’s monitoring missionfor the Balkans, and the East Timorspecial administrative mission. He wasconsul-general in Hong Kong in 2003 andserved as a special representative of thePortuguese presidency of the EU for sixdiplomat and international canada 39

DIGNITARIES|NEW ARRIVALS15,000 employees. In this position, he wasalso chairman of the board of directors forthe Yemen Liquefied Natural Gas Projectand the Safer Exploration and ProductionPetroleum Company; as well as the YemenGeneral Corporation for Oil and Gas. Inaddition, he was a board member for theGeneral Investment Authority; the HigherCouncil of Economic and Oil Affairs andthe Export Committee.From 2005 to 2006, he was generalmanager of the Arabia-Yemen CementCompany.After completing a master’s of commerceat Pune University, India, in 1992,he joined the Canadian company, NexenPetroleum, in Yemen. There, he held seniorpositions in sections including jointventures, human resources and generalaccounting.Mr. Bahah is married and has one son.Yerlan AbildaevAmbassador of KazakhstanMr. Abildaev has a PhD in mathematicsand is a graduate of the Leningrad StateUniversity (Russia) and the World BankInstitute for Economic Development inWashington (U.S.) He has a PhD (mathematics).He joined the ministry of foreign affairsin 1994 and prior to that, he workedas a lecturer and researcher at the KazakhPedagogical Institute and Kazakh StateUniversity.From 1996 to 2002, he served at hiscountry’s embassy in Belgium where hereached the position of chargé d’affaires.For the following year, he served as chairmanof the investment committee of theministry of industry and trade. From 2003-2004, he was director of the department ofEurope and America, at foreign affairs.For the four year before he came toCanada, he was ambassador to Tajikistan.Mr. Abildaev is married and has threechildren.Non-heads of MissionAzerbaijanKhatira Museyibova,Third Secretary and ConsulTural Ganjaliyev,Third SecretaryBarbadosChristobelle Elaine Reece,CounsellorBurkina FasoKorotimi Bayala/Drabo,AttachéChinaShi Wang,CounsellorMo Wang,AttachéKezhen Li,Second SecretaryYaonan Liu,First SecretaryCosta RicaSilvia Marta AndersonQuiros,Second SecretaryCôte D’ivoireLasme Roger Diby,CounsellorMalekah Mourad Conde,AttachéSehy Maimouna Bony,AttachéN’guessan BernardN’guessan,First CounsellorCroatiaDrazen Jozef,Military AttachéCubaLuis Angel GuzmanGonzalez,AttachéCzech RepublicJan Beroun,CounsellorDominican RepublicJulio Alejanfro RodriguezVelez,CounsellorGretchen Purisima PockelsSaneaux,CounsellorEgyptAlaa Eldin Eid Oleimy,AttachéHwaida Essam AbdelRahman,MinisterEuropean UnionGiovanni Di Girolamo,First Counsellor & ChargéD’affairesGhanaKwadwo Tuntum Addo,Minister-CounsellorGuineaMory Sidibe,First SecretaryIndiaVirender Kumar Langayan,AttachéIranHamid Mohammadi,CounsellorIranYadollah Adibi,First SecretaryIraqEmad Ali Jalal Al-Moussawi,AttachéHungaryImre Mihaly Helyes,CounsellorJapanShuichi Takano,CounsellorKorea, RepublicByung Wook Jo,Minister-CounsellorKorea, RepublicKwanghee Jang, ThirdSecretaryJeanhyuk Yim,Second Secretary andConsulYung Soo Jung,First SecretaryMalaysiaSuraya Binti Ahmad Pauzi,Second SecretaryNew ZealandLesley Jane Mcconnell,CounsellorO/Of Eastern CaribbeanStatesOlaf Fontenelle,First SecretaryPeruLibrado Augusto OrozcoZapata,MinisterRussiaMikhail Markovets,Second SecretarySaudi ArabiaSulaiman Ibrahim S.Alreyaee,AttachéKhalid F.A. Alhuthaifi,AttachéSenegalMor Guèye Sall,First SecretaryRokhaya Ndiaye Diop,Second SecretarySouth AfricaNomonde Xundu,AttachéSri LankaJoseph Gaspard SarafthiLokukankanamalage,SecretaryTurkeyMehmet Ari,AttachéUkraineAndrii Lekhkyi, SecondSecretaryDenys Sienik,ThirdSecretaryUnited States of AmericaJonathan Steven Butry,Second SecretaryThomas M. Larned,AttachéKyle Thomas JonesThird Secretary and Vice-ConsulVietnamQuoc Thuy Tran,CounsellorThi Thu Huong Vu,AttachéCALL STAN AT 613-731-1970Enthusiastically serving our clientele by delivering Quality, Value & Service.OTTAWA’S #1 DIPLOMAT FLEET HEADQUARTERS.Stan NobleDiplomat Sales & FleetRepresentativeBiggest FLEET DISCOUNTS on 2009 vehicles for embassies & their staff.We also offer you an A-1 sales experience and competitive prices on any make or model.BANK Street South at 1255 Johnston Rd., Ottawa, Ont. K1V 8Z140SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

AFGHANISTANHis Ex. Omar SamadEmbassy of the Islamic Republic ofAfghanistan240 Argyle StreetOttawa, Ontario K2P 1B9TEL 563-4223 FAX 563-4962contact@afghanemb-canada.netwww.afghanemb-canada.netALBANIAHis Ex. Besnik KonciEmbassy of the Republic of Albania130 Albert Street, Suite 302Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL 236-4114 FAX 236-0804embassyofalbania@on.aibn.comALGERIAHis Ex. Smail BenamaraEmbassy of the People’s DemocraticRepublic of Algeria500 Wilbrod StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 6N2TEL 789-8505 FAX 789-1406www.embassyalgeria.ca/eng.htmANGOLAEmbassy of the Republic of Angola189 Laurier Avenue EastOttawa, Ontario K1N 6P1TEL 234-1152 FAX 234-1179info@embangola-can.orgwww.embangola-can.orgARGENTINAHis Ex. Arturo BothamleyEmbassy of the Argentine Republic81 Metcalfe Street 7th FloorOttawa, Ontario K1P 6K7TEL 236-2351 FAX 235-2659embargentina@argentina-canada.netwww.argentina-canada.netARMENIAMr. Arman AkopianChargé d’AffairesEmbassy of the Republic of Armenia7 Delaware AvenueOttawa, Ontario K2P 0Z2TEL 234-3710 FAX 234-3444armcanadaembassy@mfa.comwww.armembassycanada.caAUSTRALIAHis Ex. Justin Hugh BrownAustralian High Commission50 O’Connor, Suite 710Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2TEL 236-0841 FAX 236-4376www.canada.embassy.gov.auAUSTRIAHis Ex. Werner BrandstetterEmbassy of the Republic of Austria445 Wilbrod StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 6M7TEL 789-1444 FAX 789-3431Ottawa-ob@bmeia.gv.atAZERBAIJANMr. Farid ShafiyevChargé d’AffairesEmbassy of the Republic of Azerbaijan275 Slater Street, Suite 904-COttawa, Ontario K1P 5H9TEL 288-0497 FAX 230-8089BAHAMASHis Ex. Michael D. SmithHigh Commission for TheCommonwealth of The Bahamas50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1313Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2TEL. 232-1724 FAX 232-0097ottawa-mission@bahighco.comBANGLADESHHis Ex. A.M. Yakub AliHigh Commission for the People’sRepublic of Bangladesh340 Albert St., Suite 1250Ottawa, Ontario, K1R 7Y6TEL 236-0138 FAX 567-3213bangla@rogers.comwww.bdhc.orgBARBADOSHis Ex. Edward Evelyn GreavesHigh Commission for Barbados55 Metcalfe St., Suite 470Ottawa, Ontario, K1P 6L5TEL 236-9517 FAX 230-4362ottawa@foreign.gov.bbBELARUSMr. Pavel PustovoyChargé d’AffairesEmbassy of the Republic of Belarus130 Albert Street, Suite 600Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL 233-9994 FAX 233-8500belamb@igs.netBELGIUMHis Ex. Jean LintEmbassy of Belgium360 Albert Street, Suite 820Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7TEL 236-7267 FAX 236-7882Ottawa@diplobel.orgwww.diplomatie.be/ottawaBENINHis Ex. Honoré AhimakinEmbassy of the Republic of Benin58 Glebe AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1S 2C3TEL 233-4429 FAX 233-8952ambaben@benin.caBOLIVIAHis Ex. Edgar Torrez MosqueiraEmbassy of the Republic of Bolivia130 Albert Street, Suite 416Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL 236-5730 FAX 236-8237embolivia04@yahoo.comBOSNIA-HERZEGOVINAHis Ex. Milenko MisicEmbassy of Bosnia and Herzegovina130 Albert Street, Suite 805Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL 236-0028 FAX 236-1139embassyofbih@bellnet.cawww.bhembassy.caBRAZILHis Ex. Paulo Cordeiro PintoEmbassy of the Federative Republicof Brazil450 Wilbrod StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 6M8TEL 237-1090 FAX 237-6144mailbox@brasembottawa.orgBRUNEI DARUSSALAMHer Ex. Rakiah Haji Abdul LamitHigh Commission for BruneiDarussalam.395 Laurier Avenue EastOttawa, Ontario K1N 6R4TEL 234-5656 FAX 234-4397bhco@bellnet.caBULGARIAHis Ex. Evgueni StoytchevEmbassy of the Republic of Bulgaria325 Stewart StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 6K5TEL 789-3215 FAX 789-3524BURKINA FASOHer Ex. Juliette BonkoungouEmbassy of Burkina Faso48 Range RoadOttawa, Ontario K1N 8J4TEL 238-4796 FAX 238-3812burkina.faso@sympatico.cawww.ambaburkina-canada.orgBURUNDIHer Ex. Appolonie SimbiziEmbassy of the Republic of Burundi325 Dalhousie Street, Suite 815Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7G2TEL 789-0414 FAX 789-9537ambabottawa@yahoo.comhttp://ambabucanada.le-site.infoCAMEROONHis Ex. Solomon Azoh-Mbi Anu’a-GheyleHigh Commission for the Republicof Cameroon170 Clemow AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1S 2B4TEL 236-1522 FAX 236-3885CHILEHis Ex. Eugenio Ortega RiquelmeEmbassy of the Republic of Chile50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1413Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2TEL 235-9940 FAX 235-1176echileca@chile.cawww.chile.caCHINAHis Ex. Lijun LanEmbassy of the People’s Republicof China515 St. Patrick StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 5H3TEL. 789-3434 FAX 789-1911www.chinaembassycanada.orgCOLOMBIAHis Ex. Jaime Giron-DuarteEmbassy of the Republic of Colombia360 Albert Street, Suite 1002Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7TEL 230-3760 FAX 230-4416embajada@embajadacolombia.cawww.embajadacolombia.caCONGO (ZAIRE)Ms. Louise Nzanga RamazaniChargé d’AffairesEmbassy of the Democratic Republicof the Congo18 Range RoadOttawa, Ontario K1N 8J3TEL 230-6391 FAX 230-1945COSTA RICAHer Ex. Emilia Maria AlvarezNavarroEmbassy of the Republic of Costa Rica325 Dalhousie Street, Suite 407Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7G2TEL. 562-2855 FAX 562-2582embcrica@travel-net.comwww.costaricaembassy.comdiplomatic contactsdiplomat and international canada | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS ‐ | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES 41

diplomatic contactsCÔTE D’IVOIREHis Ex. Louis Leon Boguy BonyEmbassy of the Republic ofCôte d’Ivoire9 Marlborough AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1N 8E6TEL. 236-9919 FAX 563-8287acica@ambaci-ottawa.orgwww.ambaci-ottawa.orgCROATIAHer Ex. Vesela Mrden KoraćEmbassy of the Republic of Croatia229 Chapel StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 7Y6TEL. 562-7820 FAX 562-7821Croatia.emb@mvpei.hrwww.croatiaemb.netCUBAHer Ex. Teresita de Jesús VicenteSotolongoEmbassy of the Republic of Cuba388 Main StreetOttawa, Ontario K1S 1E3TEL. 563-0141 FAX 563-0068cuba@embacuba.cawww.embacuba.caCZECH REPUBLICHis Ex. Karel ŽebrakovskýEmbassy of the Czech Republic251 Cooper StreetOttawa, Ontario K2P 0G2TEL. 562-3875 FAX 562-3878ottawa@embassy.mzv.czDENMARKHis Ex. Poul Erik Dam KristensenRoyal Danish Embassy47 Clarence Street, Suite 450Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9K1TEL. 562-1811 FAX 562-1812ottamb@um.dkwww.ambottawa.um.dkDOMINICAN REPUBLICHis Ex. Luis Eladio Arias NunezEmbassy of the Dominican Republic130 Albert Street, Suite 418Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL. 569-9893 FAX 569-8673www.drembassy.orgECUADORHis Excellency Franklin ChávezEmbassy of the Republic of Ecuador50 O’Connor Street, Suite 316Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2TEL. 563-4286 FAX 235-5776EGYPTHis Ex. Shamel Elsayed NasserEmbassy of the Arab Republic of Egypt454 Laurier Avenue EastOttawa, Ontario K1N 6R3TEL. 234-4931 FAX 234-4398egyptemb@sympatico.cawww.mfa.gov.egEL SALVADORHis Ex. Rafael AlfaroEmbassy of the Republic of El Salvador209 Kent StreetOttawa, Ontario K2P 1Z8TEL. 238-2939 FAX 238-6940embajada@elsalvador-ca.orgEritreaHis Ex. Ahferom BerhaneEmbassy of the State of Eritrea75 Albert Street, Suite 610Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5E7TEL. 234-3989 FAX 234-6213ESTONIARasmus LumiChargé d’AffairesEmbassy of the Republic of Estonia260 Dalhousie Street, Suite 210Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7E4TEL. 789-4222 FAX 789-9555embassy.ottawa@mfa.eewww.estemb.caETHIOPIAEmbassy of the Federal DemocraticRepublic of Ethiopia151 Slater Street, Suite 210Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3TEL. 235-6637 FAX 235-4638infoethi@magi.comwww.ethiopia.ottawa.on.caEUROPEAN UNIONDelegation of the EuropeanCommission to Canada150 Metcalfe St. #1900Ottawa, ON K2P1P1TEL. 238-6464 FAX 238-5191delegation-canada@ec.europa.euwww.delcan.ec.europa.euFINLANDHis Ex. Risto Ensio PiipponenEmbassy of the Republic of Finland55 Metcalfe Street, Suite 850Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L5TEL. 288-2233 FAX 288-2244embassy@finland.caFRANCEHis Ex. Francois DelattreEmbassy of France42 Sussex DriveOttawa, Ontario K1M 2C9TEL. 789-1795 FAX 562-3735www.ambafrance-ca.orgGABONHis Ex. André William AnguiléEmbassy of the Gabonese Republic4 Range Road, P.O. Box 368Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J5TEL. 232-5301 FAX 232-6916ambgabon@sprint.caGERMANYHis Ex. Matthias Martin HöpfnerEmbassy of the Federal Republic ofGermany1 Waverley StreetOttawa, Ontario K2P 0T8TEL. 232-1101 FAX 594-9330germanembassyottawa@on.aibn.comGHANAHer Ex. Margaret Ivy AmoakoheneHigh Commission for the Republicof Ghana153 Gilmour StreetOttawa, Ontario K2P 0N8TEL. 236-0871 FAX 236-0874ghanacom@ghc-ca.comwww.ghc-ca.comGREECEHis. Ex. Nikolaos MatsisEmbassy of the Hellenic Republic80 MacLaren Street, Suite 76Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0K6TEL. 238-6271 FAX 238-5676embassy@greekembassy.cawww.greekembassy.caGUATEMALAHis Excellency Georges de La RocheEmbassy of the Republic ofGuatemala130 Albert Street, Suite 1010Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL. 233-7237 FAX 233-0135embassy1@embaguate-canada.comwww.embaguate-canada.comGUINEAMrs. Hawa DiakitéCounsellor & Chargé d’AffairesEmbassy of the Republic of Guinea483 Wilbrod StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 6N1TEL. 789-8444 FAX 789-7560ambassadedeguinee@bellnet.caGUYANAHis Ex. Rajnarine SinghHigh Commission for the Republicof Guyana151 Slater Street, Suite 309Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3TEL. 235-7249 FAX 235-1447HAITIMs. Marie Nathalie Menos-GisselChargé d’AffairesEmbassy of the Republic of Haiti130 Albert Street, Suite 1500Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL. 238-1628 FAX 238-2986bohio@sympatico.caHOLY SEEHis Ex. The Most Rev. Luigi VenturaApostolic Nunciature724 Manor AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1M 0E3TEL. 746-4914 FAX 746-4786HONDURASMr. Javier ValladaresChargé d’AffairesEmbassy of the Republic ofHonduras151 Slater Street, Suite 805Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3TEL. 233-8900 FAX 232-0193HUNGARYHis Ex. Pál VastaghEmbassy of the Republic ofHungary299 Waverley StreetOttawa, Ontario K2P 0V9TEL. 230-2717 FAX 230-7560www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/ottawamission.ott@kum.huICELANDHer Excellency Sigridur AnnaThordardottirEmbassy of Iceland360 Albert Street, Suite 710Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7TEL. 482-1944 FAX 482-1945icemb.ottawa@utn.stjr.isINDIAHis Ex. Shashishekhar M. GavaiHigh Commission for the Republicof India10 Springfield RoadOttawa, Ontario K1M 1C9TEL. 744-3751 FAX 744-0913hicomind@hciottawa.cawww.hciottawa.caINDONESIAHis Ex. Djoko HardonoEmbassy of the Republic ofIndonesia55 Parkdale AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1Y 1E5TEL. 724-1100 FAX 724-1105info@indonesia-ottawa.orgwww.indonesia-ottawa.orgIRANMr. Bahram GhasemiChargé d’AffairesEmbassy of the IslamicRepublic of Iran245 Metcalfe StreetOttawa, Ontario K2P 2K2TEL. 235-4726 FAX 232-5712iranemb@salamiran.orgwww.salamiran.orgIRAQHis Ex. Howar M. ZiadEmbassy of the Republic of Iraq215 McLeod StreetOttawa, Ontario K2P 0Z8TEL. 236-9177 FAX 236-9641media@iraqembassy.cawww.iraqembassy.caIRELANDHis Ex. Declan KellyEmbassy of Ireland130 Albert Street, Suite 1105Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL. 233-6281 FAX 233-5835Ottawaembassy@dfa.iewww.embassyofireland.caISRAELHer Ex. Miriam ZivEmbassy of Israel50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1005Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2TEL. 567-6450 FAX 567-9878info@ottawa.mfa.gov.ilwww.embassyofIsreal.caITALYHis Ex. Gabriele SardoEmbassy of the Italian Republic275 Slater Street, 21st FloorOttawa, Ontario K1P 5H9TEL. 232-2401 FAX 233-1484ambital@italyincanada.comwww.italyincanada.comJAMAICAHer Ex. Evadne CoyeJamaican High Commission275 Slater Street, Suite 800Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H9TEL. 233-9311 FAX 233-0611hc@jhcottawa.ca42 | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS ‐ | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

JAPANHis Ex. Tsuneo NishidaEmbassy of Japan255 Sussex DriveOttawa, Ontario K1N 9E6TEL. 241-8541 FAX 241-2232infocul@embjapan.cawww.ca.emb-japan.go.jpJORDANHis Ex. Nabil Ali BartoEmbassy of the Hashemite Kingdomof Jordan100 Bronson Avenue, Suite 701Ottawa, Ontario K1R 6G8TEL. 238-8090 FAX 232-3341KAZAKHSTANHis Ex. Yerlan AbildayevEmbassy of the Republic ofKazakhstan,283 McLeod St. Ottawa K2P 1A1TEL 788-3704 FAX 788-3702KENYAHigh Commission for the Republicof Kenya415 Laurier Avenue EastOttawa, Ontario K1N 6R4TEL. 563-1773 FAX 233-6599kenyahighcommission@rogers.comwww.kenyahighcommission.caKOREA, REPUBLICEmbassy of the Republic of Korea150 Boteler StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 5A6TEL. 244-5010 FAX 244-5034www.emb-korea.ottawa.on.caKUWAITHis Ex. Musaed Rashed Al-HarounEmbassy of the State of Kuwait333 Sussex DriveOttawa, Ontario, K1N 1J9TEL. 780-9999 FAX 780-9905LATVIAHis Ex. Mar`gers KramsEmbassy of the Republic of Latvia350 Sparks Street, Suite 1200Ottawa, Ontario, K1R 7S8TEL. 238-6014 FAX 238-7044embassy.canada@mfa.gov.lvwww.ottawa.mfa.gov.lvLEBANONHis Ex. Massoud MaaloufEmbassy of Lebanon640 Lyon StreetOttawa, Ontario K1S 3Z5TEL. 236-5825 FAX 232-1609info@lebanonembassy.cawww.lebanonembassy.caLESOTHOHer Ex. Mots'eoa SenyaneHigh Commission for the Kingdomof Lesotho130 Albert Street, Suite 1820Ottawa, ON K1P 5G4Tel: 234-0770 Fax: 234-5665LIBYAHis Ex. Ahmed Ali JarrudEmbassy of the Great SocialistPeople’s Libyan Arab Jamahiriya81 Metcalfe Street, Suite 1000Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6K7TEL. 230-0919 FAX 230-0683info@libya-canada.orgLITHUANIAHer Ex. Ginte DamusisEmbassy of the Republic ofLithuania130 Albert Street, Suite 204Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL. 567-5458 FAX 567-5315MACEDONIA (REPUBLIC OF)Mrs. Slavica DimovskaChargé d’AffairesEmbassy of the Republicof Macedonia130 Albert Street, Suite 1006Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL. 234-3882 FAX 233-1852MADAGASCARHis. Ex. Simon Constant HoraceEmbassy of the Republic ofMadagascar3 Raymond StreetOttawa, Ontario K1R 1A3TEL: 567-0505 FAX 567-2882ambamadcanada@bellnet.cawww.madagascar-embassy.caMALAYSIAHis Ex. Selwyn Vijayarajan DasHigh Commission for Malaysia60 Boteler StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 8Y7TEL. 241-5182 FAX 241-5214malottawa@kln.gov.myMALIHis Ex. Mamadou BandiougouDiawaraEmbassy of the Republic of Mali50 Goulburn AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1N 8C8TEL. 232-1501 FAX 232-7429ambassadedumali@rogers.comwww.ambamalicanada.orgMEXICOHis Ex. Francisco Javier BarrioTerrazasEmbassy of the United MexicanStates45 O’Connor Street, Suite 1000Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1A4TEL. 233-8988 FAX 235-9123info@embamexcan.comwww.embamexcan.comMONGOLIAHis Ex. Gotov DugerjavEmbassy of Mongolia151 Slater Street, Suite 503Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3TEL. 569-3830 FAX 569-3916mail@mongolembassy.orgMOROCCOEmbassy of the Kingdom ofMorocco38 Range RoadOttawa, Ontario K1N 8J4TEL. 236-7391 FAX 236-6164MYANMARMr. Maung MaungChargé d'AffairesEmbassy of the Union of Myanmar85 Range Road, Suite 902Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J6TEL. 232-9990 FAX 232-6999meottawa@rogers.comNETHERLANDSHis Ex. Wilhelmus J. P. GeertsEmbassy of the Kingdom of theNetherlands350 Albert Street, Suite 2020Ottawa, Ontario K1R 1A4TEL. 237-5030 FAX 237-6471Ott-cdp@minbuza.nlNEW ZEALANDHer Ex. Kate LackeyNew Zealand High Commission99 Bank Street, Suite 727Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6G3TEL. 238-5991 FAX 238-5707info@nzhcottawa.orgwww.nzembassy.com/home.cfm?c=38NIGERHer Ex. Nana Aicha FoumakoyeEmbassy of the Republic of theNiger38 Blackburn AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1N 8A3TEL. 232-4291 FAX 230-9808NIGERIAEx. Iyorwuese HagherHigh Commission for the FederalRepublic of Nigeria295 Metcalfe StreetOttawa, Ontario K2P 1R9Tel. 236-0521 Fax 236-0529NORWAYHis Ex. Tor Berntin NaessEmbassy of the Kingdom of Norway150 Metcalfe Street, Suite 1300Ottawa, ON K2P 1P1TEL. 238-6571 FAX 238-2765emb.ottawa@mfa.nowww.emb-norway.caO/OF EASTERN CARIBBEANSTATESHis Ex. Brendon BrowneHigh Commission for the Countriesof the Organization of EasternCaribbean States130 Albert Street, Suite 700Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL. 236-8952 FAX 236-3042echcc@travel-net.comwww.oecs.org/ottawa/index.htmlPAKISTANHigh Commission for the IslamicRepublic of Pakistan10 Range RoadOttawa, Ontario K1N 8J3TEL. 238-7881 FAX 238-7296parepottawa@rogers.comPALESTINEMr. Amin Abou-HassiraHead of the General Delegation45 Country Club Dr.,Ottawa, OntarioK1V 9W1TEL: 736-0053FAX: 736-0535palestinegd@rogers.comPANAMAHer Ex. Romy Vásquez de GonzálezEmbassy of the Republic of Panama130 Albert Street, Suite 300Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL. 236-7177 FAX 236-5775embassyof panama@gmail.comPARAGUAYHis Ex. Juan E. Aguirre MartinezEmbassy of the Republic ofParaguay151 Slater Street, Suite 501Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3TEL. 567-1283 FAX 567-1679consularsection@embassyofparaguay.caPERUHis Ex. Jorge Juan Castañeda MendezEmbassy of the Republic of Peru130 Albert Street, Suite 1901Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL. 238-1777 FAX 232-3062emperuca@bellnet.caPHILIPPINESHis Ex. Jose S. BrillantesEmbassy of the Republic of thePhilippines130 Albert Street, Suite 606Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL. 233-1121 FAX 233-4165embassyofphilippines@rogers.comPOLANDHis Ex. Piotr OgrodzinskiEmbassy of the Republic of Poland443 Daly AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1N 6H3TEL. 789-0468 FAX 789-1218Ottawa@polishembassy.caPORTUGALHis Ex. Pedro Moitinho de AlmeidaEmbassy of Portugal645 Island Park DriveOttawa, Ontario K1Y 0B8TEL. 729-0883 FAX 729-4236embportugal@embportugal/ottawa.orgROMANIAHer Ex. Elena StefoiEmbassy of Romania655 Rideau StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 6A3TEL. 789-3709 FAX 789-4365Romania@romanian-embassy.comhttp://ottawa.mae.roRUSSIAHis Ex. Georgiy MamedovEmbassy of the Russian Federation285 Charlotte StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 8L5TEL. 235-4341 FAX 236-6342rusemb@rogers.comwww.rusembcanada.mid.ruRWANDAHer Ex. Edda MukabagwizaEmbassy of the Republic of Rwanda121 Sherwood DriveOttawa, Ontario K1Y 3V1Phone: 569-5420/22/24Fax : 569-5421/5423generalinfo@ambarwaottawa.cawww.ambarwaottawa.caSAUDI ARABIAMr. Abdullah Saleh A. Al AwwadChargé d’AffairesRoyal Embassy of Saudi Arabia201 Sussex DriveOttawa, ON K1N 1K6Tel 237-4100 Fax 237-0567diplomatic contactsdiplomat and international canada | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS ‐ | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES 43

diplomatic contactsSENEGALHis Excellency Issakha MbackeEmbassy of the Republic of Senegal57 Marlborough AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1N 8E8TEL. 238-6392 FAX 238-2695ambassn@sympatico.caSERBIAEmbassy of the Republic of Serbia17 Blackburn AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1N 8A2TEL. 233-6289 FAX 233-7850generalinfo@serbianembassy.cawww.serbianembassy.caSLOVAK REPUBLICHis Ex. Stanislav OpielaEmbassy of the Slovak Republic50 Rideau TerraceOttawa, Ontario K1M 2A1TEL. 749-4442 FAX 749-4989ottawa@slovakembassy.cawww.ottawa.mfa.skSLOVENIAEx. Tomaz KunsteljEmbassy of the Republic of Slovenia150 Metcalfe Street, Suite 2200Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1P1TEL. 565-5781 FAX 565-5783vot@gov.siSOUTH AFRICAHis Ex. Abraham Sokhaya NkomoHigh Commission for the Republicof South Africa15 Sussex DriveOttawa, Ontario K1M 1M8TEL. 744-0330 FAX 741-1639rsafrica@southafrica-canada.cawww.southafrica-canada.caSPAINHis Ex. Mariano Alonso-BurónEmbassy of the Kingdom of Spain74 Stanley AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1M 1P4TEL. 747-2252 FAX 744-1224embespca@mail.mae.eswww.embaspain.caSRI LANKAHis Ex. Daya PereraActing High CommissionerHigh Commission for theDemocratic Socialist Republicof Sri Lanka333 Laurier Avenue West, Suite 1204Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1C1TEL. 233-8449 FAX 238-8448www.srilankahcottawa.orgSUDANEmbassy of the Republic of the Sudan354 Stewart StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 6K8TEL. 235-4000 FAX 235-6880SWEDENHer Ex. Ingrid Maria IremarkEmbassy of Sweden377 Dalhousie StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 9N8TEL. 244-8200 FAX 241-2277Sweden.ottawa@foreign.ministry.sewww.swedishembassy.caSWITZERLANDHis Ex. Werner BaumannEmbassy of Switzerland5 Marlborough AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1N 8E6TEL. 235-1837 FAX 563-1394ott.vertretung@eda.admin.chSYRIAHis Ex. Jamil Haidar SakrEmbassy of the Syrian Arab Republic151 Slater Street, Suite 1000Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3TEL. 569-5556 FAX 569-3800www.syrianembassy.caTAIPEI Economic & Cultural officeDavid Tawei Lee, Representative45 O’Connor Street, Suite 1960Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1A4TEL. 231-5080 FAX 231-7112publicaffairs@on.aibn.comTANZANIAHis Ex. Peter KallagheHigh Commission for the UnitedRepublic of Tanzania50 Range RoadOttawa, Ontario K1N 8J4TEL. 232-1509 FAX 232-5184tzottawa@synapse.cawww.tanzaniahighcommission.caTHAILANDHis Ex. Snanchart DevahastinThe Royal Thai Embassy180 Island Park DriveOttawa, Ontario K1Y 0A2TEL. 722-4444 FAX 722-6624thaiott@magma.caTOGOHis Ex. Bawoumondom AmeleteEmbassy of the Togolese Republic12 Range RoadOttawa, Ontario K1N 8J3TEL. 238-5916 FAX 235-6425TRINIDAD AND TOBAGOHer Ex. Camille RosemarieRobinson-RegisHigh Commission for the Republicof Trinidad and Tobago200 First Avenue, Third LevelOttawa, Ontario K1S 2G6TEL. 232-2418 FAX 232-4349ottawa@ttmissions.comTUNISIAHis Ex. Mouldi SakriEmbassy of the Republic of Tunisia515 O’Connor StreetOttawa, Ontario K1S 3P8TEL. 237-0330 FAX 237-7939atottawa@comnet.caTURKEYHis Ex. Rafet AkgünayEmbassy of the Republic of Turkey197 Wurtemburg StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 8L9TEL. 789-4044 FAX 789-3442turkishottawa@mfa.gov.trUGANDAHis Ex. George Marino AbolaHigh Commission for the Republicof Uganda231 Cobourg StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 8J2TEL. 789-7797 FAX 789-8909uhc@ugandahighcommission.comwww.ugandahighcommission.caUKRAINEHis. Ex. Ihor OstashEmbassy of Ukraine310 Somerset Street, West,Ottawa, Ontario, K2P 0J9Tel. 230-2961 Fax 230-2400www.ukremb.caUNITED ARAB EMIRATESMr. Terry Alan BreeseChargé d’Affaires125 Boteler StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 0A4TEL. 565-7272 FAX 565-8007Consulate FAX: 565-1444safara@uae-embassy.comwww.uae-embassy.comUNITED KINGDOMHis Ex. Anthony CaryBritish High Commission80 Elgin StreetOttawa, Ontario K1P 5K7TEL. 237-1530 FAX 237-7980www.britainincanada.orgUNITED STATES OF AMERICAMr. Terry Alan BreeseChargé d’AffairesEmbassy of the United States ofAmerica490 Sussex DriveOttawa, Ontario K1N 1G8TEL. 238-5335 FAX 688-3088www.usembassycanada.govURUGUAYHis Ex. Enrique Juan DelgadoEmbassy of the Oriental Republic ofUruguay130 Albert Street, Suite 1905Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4TEL. 234-2727 FAX 233-4670VENEZUELAJose Antonio Manlio Rodriguez dela Sierra LlerandiChargé d’AffairesEmbassy of the Bolivarian Republicof Venezuela32 Range RoadOttawa, Ontario K1N 8J4TEL. 235-5151 FAX 235-3205www.misionvenezuela.orgVIETNAMHis Excellency Duc Hung NguyenEmbassy of the Socialist Republic ofVietnam470 Wilbrod StreetOttawa, Ontario K1N 6M8TEL. 236-0772 FAX 236-2704YEMENHis Ex. Khaled Mahfoodh BahahEmbassy of the Republic of Yemen54 Chamberlain AvenueOttawa, Ontario K1S 1V9TEL. 729-6627 FAX 729-8915www.yemenincanada.caZAMBIAHis Ex. David Clifford SaviyeHigh Commission for the Republicof Zambia151 Slater St., Suite 205Ottawa, OntarioK1B 5H3TEL. 232-4400 FAX 232-4410ZIMBABWEHer Ex. 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D I P L O M A T I C T R AV E L Q A s p e c i a l f e a t u r eNorway’s battle againstclimate changeBy Tor Berntin NaessAmbassador of NorwayNorway is preparing for avisit April 28 to 30, fromHer Excellency the RightHonourable MichaëlleJean, Governor Generalof Canada. After meetingwith the Royal Family in Oslo, Ms. Jeanwill travel to the Arctic city of Tromsø(at 69°N). Our two countries share manycommon interests, including naturalresources and the provision of energyand concerns about the global challenges:energy security and climate change.Norway as a reliable energy producerAs a large oil and gas producer andexporter, Norwegian energy and foreignpolicy are closely linked. We arethe world’s second-largest gas exporter(Russia is the largest gas producer andexporter), fifth-largest oil exporter andsixth-largest producer of hydrocarbons.In times of major global challengesand changes, it is essential for Norwayto remain a stable and reliable providerof energy for the world market, and, atthe same time, be at the forefront internationallyin the fight against climatechange.The Norwegian economy (approximately$461 billion GDP) is highlydependent on petroleum revenues(approximately $60 billion) whichaccount for roughly half of Norwegianexport earnings.Stable Norwegian deliveries of oiland gas to the world market remain ourmost important contribution, as a majorG o v. G e n . M i c h a ë l l e J e a n , s h o w n h e r e w i t h N o r w e g i a n A m b a s s a d o rT o r B e r n t i n N a e s s , w i l l t r av e l t o N o r way A p r i l 2 8 - 3 0 .global energy nation, to energy security.Norway’s goal is to remain a longterm,reliable and stable supplier. Thisis a responsibility we take seriously,not least at a time when energy securityis at the top of the political agendaworldwide.As a small country rich in resources,Norway has nothing to gain by politicizingpetroleum power. We will remain areliable supplier of oil and gas to competitivemarkets and want to continue toplay a constructive and active role in thedialogue between energy consumers andproducers.The use of active diplomacy topersuade other oil exporters to implementsimilar climate policy initiativesas Norway is a top priority. But manypetroleum-rich countries, particularlythose in politically unstable areas, have aquite different record when it comes todemocracy and respect for human rightsand fundamental freedoms. Petroleumresources can be a heavy burden forsuch countries and we must ask how wecan work together to ensure long-termpositive effects of this valuable resource.Need for better global governanceToday’s global governance system isinadequately equipped to meet currentand future global problems. Itsuffers from the gap between rich andpoor countries and the antagonismsthis causes. We must seek multilateralapproaches to global challenges. Norwayis dependent on a robust internationalorder.Transparency, cooperation anddialogue should be key elements, notonly in energy policy and the energymarket, but also in all aspects of globalgovernance.The current economic downturnshould inspire political “upturn.” Itpresents an opportunity to review andimprove global governance. Economicand political developments will impactenergy security, just as energy developmentswill impact global economics andpolitics.Rideau hall46SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

D I P L O M A T I C T R AV E L Q A s p e c i a l f e a t u r eThe emergence of strong new playerson the global scene, including Brazil,China, India, South Africa and a moreassertive Russia, has huge geopoliticalimplications.The financial crisis is global. But theeconomic downturn should not distractus from the urgency of dealing with thetwin challenge of energy security andclimate change.We need to consider how energysecurity issues can best be handledwithin existing institutions, such asthe Organization for Economic Cooperationand Development (OECD),International Energy Association (IEA),International Energy Forum (IEF), theEuropean Union (EU) and the NorthAtlantic Treaty Organization (NATO).The interfaces between Norwegianenergy policy and Norwegian foreignpolicy and geopolitics are growing rapidly.We have to balance our energyinterests with other political considerations,such as climate issues and ourrelations with Russia.Climate change, Russia and the HighNorth/Arctic are all foreign policy areaswith long-term implications. They allinvolve challenges and opportunities forNorway as a global, climate-consciousenergy nation.The High NorthThe High North is a strategically importantarea for Norway, as it is for Canadaand Russia. Energy and climate changeare important reasons why this is so.The challenges in the relationsbetween Russia and the West have not,so far, had any spillover effect on thebilateral relations between Norway andRussia. Norway has been at peace withRussia for 1,000 years, and we havemanaged our neighbourly relations ina responsible way during very differenttimes.Relations between Russia and Westare likely to continue to be challengingin the future. Isolating Russia is nosolution. It is important to maintain dialogue,which is the only real opportunitywe have to influence Russia. A breakdownin our channels of communicationcould also strengthen the inward-lookingforces in Russia that want the countryto turn its back on the West.Energy and climate change are alsothe drivers of increasing internationalattention to the High North. The HighNorth offers front-row seats to the climatechange now taking place.C o a s ta l s t e a m l i n e r ,H u r t i g r u t e n .The Arctic climate is warming rapidly.The impacts will affect the rest of theworld through further global warmingand rising sea levels. Long-term preservationof the Arctic, as we know it today,will only be possible if we follow a clearstrategy for reducing global emissions ofgreenhouse gases to a sustainable level.Arctic nations need to send a strongmessage to the United Nations climatechange conference (COP15) inCopenhagen, December 7 to 18, aboutwhat is happening to the ice in theNorth and in other parts of the world.A new climate agreement that ensuressignificant reductions in greenhousegas emissions is vital for preserving theArctic.We, for a long time, will have to dealwith a changed and gradually moreaccessible Arctic. For example, areaspreviously covered by thick ice arealready beginning to open up for shippingand resource exploration.For Norway, it is important to underlinethat an extensive internationallegal framework within the UN alreadyapplies to the Arctic Ocean. The ArcticOcean is not a lawless territory. Withinthis legal framework, the Arctic statesare examining how increased activity inthese areas should be managed.Climate change and the energydilemmaClimate change is the most severe longtermchallenge facing humanity. Theinternational financial crisis will pass,but the damage to the environment willremain for generations. And climatechange is inextricably linked to energy.The increase of global energy use hasimproved the quality of life for people allaround the world, but it has also led to amassive increase of global carbon dioxide(CO 2) emissions. We cannot allowthat development to continue.In the decades to come, we will haveto resolve our energy dilemma. We willhave to decrease global emissions ofgreenhouse gases by more than 50 percent, and increase the global supply ofenergy by more than 50 per cent. Howwill we fulfil this huge common task?As a major exporter of fossil fuels,the threat of climate change and theincreasing demand for energy representsa dilemma for Norway. But this dilemmais also a global dilemma – not just forproducers but also for consumers.As we all know, we need to decarbonizeworld energy production. Carboncapture and storage is a key technologyin this regard. Norway and Canada havemore than 10 years’ experience with offshoreCO 2 storage, we from our gas field,Sleipner, in the North Sea. In May, theNorwegian government will host a highlevelconference on carbon capture andstorage.The year 2009 is a critical year. Weneed to reach a new, more comprehensiveand effective climate frameworkagreement in Copenhagen.This will not be easy. It will requireflexibility political leadership from allparties. Nevertheless, we must be ambitious.The financial crisis must not beallowed to weaken climate policies orthe outcome in Copenhagen. It is crucialthat political pressure is maintained.Securing energy supply and speedingup the transition to a low-carbon energysystem call for radical action by governmentsand active participation in coordinatedinternational efforts. It is onlythrough extensive international cooperationthat we will be able to address thehuge challenges of climate change.The Arctic is a particularly vulnerableenvironment, and one with petroleumpotential. Here our energy andpolitical relations with Canada, Russia(and other countries with which weshare Arctic interests) are essential.Given the changing face of energyand geopolitics, it is important forNorway to remain a reliable, long-termand climate-conscious exporter of oiland gas. We will continue to pursue furtherdialogue between energy producersand energy consumers, building interdependenceand relations based on trust.Tor Berntin Naess is Norway’s ambassadorto Canada.diplomat and international canada 47

D I P L O M A T I C T R AV E L Q A s p e c i a l f e a t u r eNorway: Powered byNatureBy Tor Berntin NaessAmbassador of NorwayPopulous Norwegian cities,such as the capital ofOslo and the Hanseaticcity of Bergen, enjoy amodern, cosmopolitan andculturally-rich way of life.Norway has, however, a very long andrugged coast where you can find oldtraditions and a unique coastal culture,still kept very much alive. People livealong almost the entire length of theNorwegian coast, which is punctuatedby long beaches, bustling coastal towns,world-famous fjords, thriving fishingvillages and restored fishermen’s shacks.The islands along the coast are inhabitedand full of natural splendour, bird coloniesand local culture.The Norwegian summer is at itsbest along the south coast. Here youcan lie out on a rock with a good bookand soak up the sun. The west coast isthe place to enjoy your favourite waterbasedactivities. Deep-sea rafting getsthe adrenalin pumping and sea fishingprovides relaxation and excitement atthe same time. Up in the north, you canvisit small fishing villages that are stillgoing strong. Eagle and whale safarisbring you closer to the local wildlife. Inthe winter, adrenalin junkies can evenswim with killer whales. Many of theshacks where the fishermen lived duringthe fishing season in times gone by havebeen restored and converted into unusualaccommodation called Fishermen’sCabins. Along the coast, you will alsofind lighthouses which have graduallybeen decommissioned and instead nowoffer accommodation at the mouth ofthe fjords.World Famous FjordsNorway has the highest concentrationG e i r a n g e r fj o r d : A s p e c ta c u l a r s i t e o n U N E S C O ’ sw o r l d h e r i ta g e l i s t.Innovation Norway48 SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

D I P L O M A T I C T R AV E L Q A s p e c i a l f e a t u r eof fjords in the world, and nowhere onearth are there more than in westernNorway. For this reason, the regionis commonly referred to as FjordNorway. However, fjords can also befound in central, northern and easternNorway. www.visitnorway.com/us/lists/Destinations-article-list/Central-Norway/Fjords are nature’s own work of art,formed when the glaciers retreated andsea water flooded the U-shaped valleys.Thanks to the warming Gulf Stream, theNorwegian fjords enjoy a mild climateand remain virtually ice-free. Seals, porpoisesand an abundance of fish swim inthe fjords, while eagles and other birdssoar the skies above. Along most fjordshores there is lush flora and fertilesoil. In many places, the land has beenfarmed for thousands of years. Orchardswith flowering fruit trees along theHardangerfjord in May is an image ofparadise.These saltwater fjords are often verydeep and can drop as much as 1,308metres below sea level. Because they areso deep, they permit navigation by largeships, allowing you to experience theirbeauty at close range.UNESCO has included thefjords of Norway, exemplified by theGeirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord, onits prestigious World Heritage List.www.visitnorway.com/us/Articles/Norway/West/The-Geirangerfjord-and-Trollstigen/The Nærøyfjord is, at one point,only 250 metres across, while mountainstower up to 1,800 metres above itstranquil waters. The Geirangerfjord isfamous for its beauty and magnificentwaterfalls, the best known being theSeven Sisters. Gudvangen and Geiranger,the two innermost villages of these twofjords, are among the most popularcruise ship ports in Scandinavia.It is not only UNESCO that views theNorwegian fjords as exceptional. NationalGeographic magazine has named thefjords “the best unspoiled travel destinationsin the world.” And the respectedAmerican newspaper, the ChicagoTribune has included Norway’s fjords onits list of “Seven Wonders of Nature.”Midnight Sun and Northern LightsIn northern Norway, the sun never setsduring the summer months, blurringthe concepts of day and night. In summer,night time is just a dimmer versionof daytime. The light of the MidnightA u r o r a B o r e a l i s : A j aw - d r o p p i n g a n d m y s t i c a l e x p e r i e n c eSun gives the landscape a magical andromantic dimension. Visitors to northernNorway during the summer months willexperience the Midnight Sun fully inclear weather, but even if it is cloudy, thelight nights are still a unique experience.Evenings are light during the summer inthe rest of the country, too, with sunsetas late as 10:30 p.m. and sunrise at 3 a.m.N o r w e g i a n f i s h i n g v i l l a g eInnovation Norway“No pencil can draw it, no colourscan paint it, and no words can describe itin all its magnificence,” Julius von Payer,the Austrian explorer, painter and keenobserver of the Northern Lights, oncewrote.Seeing the Northern Lights – AuroraBorealis – is a jaw-dropping and mysticalexperience. Sometimes the NorthernLights come all together, dancing acrossthe sky, orange, purple, green and sunsetred. Other times, they are simplycurtains of computer-screen green ortwisters of wispy light. The NorthernLights are never the same twice. Theyare at their most frequent in late autumnand early spring, with October, Februaryand March being the best months forobservation. Theoretically, you can seethe them all over Norway. However, thebest places are above the Arctic Circle innorthern Norway.For more information, please seewww.visitnorway.com/us, and jointhe Facebook-group Visitnorway USA(www.facebook.com).Innovation Norwaydiplomat and international canada 49

D I P L O M A T I C T R AV E L Q A s p e c i a l f e a t u r eDiscover the Netherlandswith Ambassador Wim Geertsand his familyBy Anna RijkHolland is a versatilecountry. It’s quite small,but there is a lot goingon and so much to see.Visit its many museums,cycle through the bulbfields, sail the Dutch waterways, sleep inits castle or hotels, use it as your gatewayto Europe. Everyone in Holland speaksEnglish and is very friendly.Wim Geerts, Ambassador of theNetherlands to Canada, his wife Theaand their daughters Suzanne and Lisashow you their favourite destinations.Wim Geerts:‘Polderen is typically Dutch’“More than half of Holland is below sealevel and more than 20 per cent of theland has been reclaimed from the seaand turned into so-called polders, bydraining the lakes.L E F T T O R I G H T : T h e a , L i s a , S u z a n n e a n d W i m G e e r t sp o l d e r – w i n d m i l l sMy country is famous for these polders.Without dikes and pumps, largeparts of the Netherlands would disappearunder water again. For me, thelink between the polders and politics isappealing, mainly because many of ourvalues, such as open-mindedness, innovationand cooperation, originated fromthe ongoing Dutch struggle with water.They were a necessity for survival.Decision-makingNowadays the so-called ‘polder model’is a term used to describe the internationallyacclaimed Dutch version of consensuspolicy in economics. However,the term was quickly adopted for a muchwider meaning, for similar cases of consensusdecision-making, which are typicallyDutch.When you visit the Netherlands youhave to visit those areas. Walk, bike ordrive, and experience yourself why theDutch needed to ‘polder’ and why theyhave to work together to discuss andinvent new means of protection.These modern windmills are used togenerate electricity in an environmentallyfriendly manner. The thousands ofDutch windmills declined to the approximately900 mills remaining today.If you want to see windmills at theirvery best, you have to head to Kinderdijkwhere, in the mid-1700s, 19 mills in fourdistinct styles, were built to power a50 SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

D I P L O M A T I C T R AV E L Q A s p e c i a l f e a t u r ecomplex system of pumps designed tokeep water levels in balance. NowadaysKinderdijk is a UNESCO World HeritageSite, and visitors walk paths or takeadvantage of tour boats to navigate canalsand take in the world’s most comprehensivecollection of historical windmills.Exciting citiesApart from the polders, the Netherlandshas great cities. Amsterdam, Rotterdam,The Hague and Maastricht each offer aunique view of the country. Amsterdam,the country’s capital, holds the economicheartbeat and is known for its concentriccanal ring. Rotterdam is home to oneof the largest and best ports in the world.The Hague houses the Dutch RoyalFamily of Orange-Nassau and the governmentof Holland. Maastricht is oneof the oldest cities of Holland, locatedin the hills of Limburg, and is the site ofvarious Roman ruins and caves. Thereis something to do and to see for everybodyin Holland.Suzanne Geerts:‘Jump on a bike’We arrived last summer in Ottawa,and we all love this city. But one thingwe miss is our daily biking trips. TheNetherlands is really a country ofcyclists. Almost every person in theNetherlands has at least one bicycle,which means that there are actuallymore bicycles than people. A bicycleis better than a car for getting aroundtown. It’s quicker and better for theenvironment too.Holland is the perfect place to spenda cycling vacation. And because mycountry is so flat and has a mild climate,it’s very doable for everybody. I knowHolland offers packages to cyclists ofall levels, offering everything from daytrips and weekend trips to fully fledgedcycling vacations for both groups andindividuals.Easy to find your wayThe Dutch have built a network of separatebike paths exclusively for cyclistsin both rural and urban areas. You ridethrough the most wonderful landscapes,and you never see a car close by. All bikepaths are mapped out and the maps areavailable in Holland in local book stores,local tourist offices (VVV’s), or at allof the ANWB (the Dutch automobileassociation) branches. So, it’s easy tofind your way around on a bike. And ofcourse, you can use your GPS and downloadmaps of the Dutch bike paths.Bikes can be rented by the hour, day,week, or even longer at most train stationsor bicycle shops for about eightEuros a day or 35 Euros a week.By the way, if you have a chance, itwould be neat if you could join my dadon a bike ride in Ottawa, on May 31. Thisis the first day of Canada’s EnvironmentWeek. Closer to this date there will bemore information available at www.netherlandsembassy.ca.Thea Geerts :‘World-class cultural offerings’Many of the world’s famous painters areDutch, such as Rembrandt, Van Gogh,Frans Hals and Johannes Vermeer. Ifyou would like to understand the Dutch,K i n d e r d i j k i s a n o t h e r U N E S C O W o r l d H e r i ta g e S i t ediplomat and international canada 51

D I P L O M A T I C T R AV E L Q A s p e c i a l f e a t u r etake a closer look at their paintings inAmsterdam’s Rijksmuseum, the nearbyVincent van Gogh museum, or theMauritshuis in The Hague.Famous portraitsThough the Dutch elite was never reallyextravagant and did not have a real courtas existed in Germany, France and Spain,they preferred to stash small items ofgreat value in their mansions rather thanin baroque palaces. You can still see thisin the countless portrait paintings theycommissioned.Did you know the Vancouver ArtGallery will host an exhibition of paintingsfrom the Rijksmuseum this summer?If you won’t have an opportunity to travelto the Netherlands, you can experienceDutch art at an exhibition entitled‘Vermeer, Rembrandt and the GoldenAge of Dutch Art, Masterpieces fromthe Rijksmuseum’ held from May 10 toSeptember 13, 2009. www.vanartgallery.bc.caHolland Art CitiesIn 2009 and 2010, the four largest citiesin Holland will be taking part in alarge-scale art and cultural event called‘Holland Art Cities.’ As part of this event,the top 10 museums in Amsterdam,Rotterdam, The Hague and Utrechtwill be joining forces to put together anunprecedented art spectacle. The program,which consists of at least 25 exhibitionsover the course of the two years,is an absolute must for all art lovers.www.hollandartcities.comh i s t o r i c a m s t e r d a m s t r e e t s c a p eOther museumsApart from the glory days of the17th century, there is much in theNetherlands to attract the present-dayvisitor.If you and your family want to geta quick idea of what the Netherlandslooks like, you should visit the miniaturecity of Madurodam in The Hague. Thereyou will find models of famous buildingsand sights from all over the country. Itis a very popular place for both childrenand adults.Lisa Geerts:‘Visit your inner world’I would like to show you somethingunique. This is a world first, and a spectacularexperience around the humanbody, right in the Netherlands. Corpus isa ‘journey through the human body’ duringwhich you can see, feel and hear how52m a d u r o d a m m u s e u mthe human body works and what roleshealthy food, healthy living and plentyof exercise plays. I just love it.Start with the kneesIt’s not only interesting for people interestedin biology or kids who would liketo become medical doctors. Just enterthrough the knees of the corpus and exitin the brain. You will start a thrilling journeyin the 5D heart theatre as a red bloodSPRING 09 | APR–JUN

D I P L O M A T I C T R AV E L Q A s p e c i a l f e a t u r eb i k i n g i n t h e n e t h e r l a n d scell or discover the spectacular operationof the human brain in the brain show. Youget answers to questions such as ‘Howdoes my hair grow,’ or ‘What happenswhen you sneeze?’ and ‘Where on yourtongue do you taste sugar?’Close encountersIt’s really fascinating: You walk througha stomach, you will have a close encounterwith lungs and get better acquaintedwith your heart. Corpus uses the latesttechnology in the field of imagery, soundand 3D effects to present and explainall medical aspects of the human body.After touring around you can have funwhile testing your health and learningmore about your own body in the medicalinformation centres.Corpus is built in Oegstgeest (nearLeiden), and has been open since March2008. For more information, visit www.corpusexperience.nl.When you see the building with yourown eyes, you just have to stop and visit.Enjoy!For more ideas and travelinformation on the Netherlands:www.us.holland.comc o r p u s i n t e r i o rThis article was written by Anna Rijk,communications and public diplomacyat the Embassy of the Kingdomof the Netherlands, in partnership withNetherlands Bureau for Tourism, NewYork.diplomat and international canada 53

D I P L O M A T I C T R AV E L Q A s p e c i a l f e a t u r eA TOUCH of DUTCHBy Anna Rijkesigned especially for theDcitizens of Ottawa andalso to have a chance towork closely togetherwith a number of wonderfulorganizations inthe nation’s capital, the Embassy of theKingdom of the Netherlands offers afriendship program ‘A Touch of Dutch’every spring.Kicked-off at the end of April with areception to celebrate Queen Beatrix’sbirthday, other activities, presentationsand events are offered throughout thespring. The program runs when thetulips are blooming. At this time of theyear there is an almost natural attentionfor the Netherlands in Ottawa.Most people know about the closerelationship between Canada and theNetherlands and the Canadian TulipFestival. The gift of tulips was in appreciationof hospitality that membersof Holland’s royal family received inOttawa during the Second World Warand with gratitude for the pivotal roleCanadian troops played in the liberationof the Netherlands. PrincessMargriet was born at the OttawaCivic Hospital; her hospital room wasdeclared “Dutch soil” and the flag ofthe Netherlands flew on Parliament’sPeace Tower. The tulips have becomean important symbol of internationalfriendship.Canada and The Netherlands havedeveloped their bonds of friendshipever since. Today both countries haveexcellent relationships in many fieldsreflected by the various activities of ‘ATouch of Dutch.’ Some parts of the programwill focus on historical and militarybonds, others on the future.All activities of ‘A Touch of Dutch2009’ will be published at www.netherlandsembassy.caonce the kick-off dateis closer. Feel free to simply pick whateverinterests you and celebrate withus these festive friendship bonds. Formore information, contact Anna Rijkat the Embassy of the Kingdom of theNetherlands at (613) 237-5031 ext. 231.54 Highlights of ‘A Touch of Dutch 2009’May 3 – Happy Birthday, Queen BeatrixCelebrate the Dutch Queen’s Day withAmbassador Wim Geerts and his family.A perfect way to warm up for theCanadian Tulip Festival with your children.Greenboro Library, 2:00 p.m.May 4 – Wreath-laying ceremony atthe National War Memorial.Please join Ambassador Wim Geerts andremember the fallen soldiers. May 4 isthe National Remembrance Day in theNetherlands, equivalent to November 11in Canada.May 2-17 – Three Dutch weeekends atthe Canadian War Museum.Meet veterans who served in Europeduring WWII. Listen – with your children– to the reading of ‘A Bloom ofFriendship’ and much more. Served withGo Green,Go Dutch,Go Bike!AN INVITATIONTO PARTICIPATEMay 2009, date to be confirmedCome and bike with Wim Geerts,Ambassador of the Netherlands,and celebrate Dutch heritage, as wellas the spirit of the Canadian EnvironmentWeek 2009 (May 31 - June 2009).More info? Please contact: gobike@netherlandsembassy.cawww.netherlandsembassy.cacoffee, tea and Dutch friendship cookies.May 4-13 – Water Presentations hostedby the Ottawa Public LibraryWater management is vital for a countryhemmed in by the North Sea. TheDutch are world famous because of theirstruggle against the water. May 4, NorthGloucester Branch – 7-8 p.m.May 6, Alta Vista Library – 7-8 p.m.May 11, Main Branch (Metcalfe Str) – 7-8 p.m.May 13, Nepean Centre Point Library– 7-8 p.m.May 31 – Go Green Go Dutch Go BikeCome and bike with AmbassadorWim Geerts and celebrate Dutchheritage as well as the spirit of theCanadian Environment Week. Togetherwith Councillor Clive Doucet, theNetherlands Embassy will focus on thetraditions of Dutch cycling and on thepositive results towards the environmentin general.SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

DESTINATIONS|MaineAn often-overlooked Maine attractionBy Jessie Reynolds and Matt Renshawmatt renshawPortland Head Light: “The most photographed lighthouse in North America.”Departing in our bright-white,newly-minted 2009 Mustang convertiblerental from Toronto’sPearson International Airport at 11:00 p.m.might have seemed reasonable when wewere in the planning our economy-classtrip to Maine. When we finally pulled intoPortland, Maine’s largest city, seven cupsof coffee and roughly 10 hours later, werealized that perhaps sleeping throughthe night might have been a good ideabefore starting out on our two-week openairdriving vacation.The route was pretty simple and, forwhatever parts of it weren’t, our borrowed(and quickly mastered) GPS saved the day.It turns out that all we needed for a memorabledriving holiday is a convertible, coffee-cupholders, a GPS and one statewidepull-out map (which was in shreds by theend of Week One). Driving from Torontoto Portland was purely an exercise ineconomy – we could have rented the carin Portland. We had convinced ourselves,though, that the journey was as importantas the destination. Luckily, we were right.From Toronto, we headed through NewYork State and Massachusetts before cuttingacross a small corner of New Hampshireand pulling into Portland early thenext morning. By then we had experiencedall Highway 90’s rest stops had to offer:Welcome centres which provide free coffeeand tour books as well as the only cleanwashrooms we found anywhere in Maineoutside of our hotel rooms. In the middleof the night, America’s eastern seaboardrest stops are closed, with no concern thatdrivers are running out of gas, beef jerkyand coffee.Portland conveys a sense of relaxationand efficiency, all at once. Once we enteredthe city, crossing basket-weave highwaysand bridges, we quickly sensed this moderncity is also an old city, full of historywith unique architecture, narrow cobblestoneroads and street-side coffee shops.Here, a jazz quartet performed on thesidewalk. There, a fisherman carried hiscatch off tug-boats. These days, though,the traditional or “hey-day” scenes takeplace in front of Internet cafés and fairtradeboutique import stores.Portland offers a variety of chain hotels,small family-run historical hotels andconventional B&Bs. Many such rooms costbetween US$130 and $200 per night. Weopted for – what else? – a deal we foundon the Internet. The website, www.hotwire.com,offers flights, hotels or packages56 SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

Maine|DESTINATIONSat vastly marked-down prices. However,when we made our reservation, all wecould specify is how many kilometers wewere willing to go from the city centre andthe minimum star-rating we wanted. Thename of the hotel wasn’t provided untilwe’d signed the dotted line.We crossed our fingers, hoped for thebest, and it worked. We ended up at thelovely Wyndham Hotel, which is lessthan a 10-minute drive from the centre ofPortland. From the outside, it looked likea forgotten relic from the 1960s. Inside, therooms were luxurious. If one measuresluxury by the number of non-functionalpillows on the bed, it should be noted thatthe Wyndham boasted a seven-pillow bed.The food was delicious and the servicefriendly and prompt. We had free Internetaccess, together with the kind of toiletriesguests want to take home, to sit unused intheir guest bathroom.Portland itself offered a wonderfulselection of shopping, restaurants, parks,architecture and, tucked into every cobblestonebrick and every artfully-designedwooden sign, the inescapable feeling thatwe were in the beating heart of New England.It was the combination of fresh saltyair, welcoming locals, unbelievable lobsterrolls, beautiful scenery and great shoppingin a well-established and active port town.We spent our first afternoon on theMainely Tours trolley with Bramps (“mygranddaughter can’t pronounce the ‘G’”),the guide who would lean in to the megaphoneand offer personal anecdotesthroughout the three-hour journey. Thetrip took us from the docks, through thecity, highlighting Victoria Mansion, modernart galleries, the birthplace home of thepoet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (Evangeline,Song of Hiawatha), several shoppingdistricts and views of the Fore River. Onebuilding to note was Franklin Towers, thetallest building (at 16 stories) in Maine.Portland passed a law that no buildingcould be taller, thereby helping preservethe beauty and history of the city and itswaterfront. Crossing the river on the wayto Cape Elizabeth, we took in the views ofthe Portland Head Light, the most photographedlighthouse in North America.As Bramps’ fascinating stories and thesalt-water taffy we had smuggled ontothe trolley ran out, we headed to Becky’son Hobson’s Wharf. This bustling dinerrewarded the very patience it demandedfrom us. The line-up of people outsideassured we’d picked the right place, butthe turnover was faster than we expected.The all-day breakfast was peerless, the coffeedelicious and the blueberry pancakes,a guilty pleasure we suggest not goingwithout. As it’s in a place centred on thefishing industry, Becky’s pays tribute tothe fisherman who helped build the city.To this day, whenever a fisherman is lostat sea, Becky’s stays open 24 hours and allthe proceeds go to the fisherman’s family.After a day of strolling through the city,we ended up at Dry Dock Restaurant &Tavern, which offered the most extraordinaryEast Coast meal we enjoyed on ourtrip: fried clam cakes, a gourmet hamburgerand a lobster roll. The latter is alocal favourite for good reason.An East Coast meal wouldn’t be completewithout some local beer – we suggestAllagash, Geary’s or Shipyard BrewingCo. After enjoying the scenery off the second-floorpatio of the restaurant, a busydock-side bar filled with the city’s 20- and30-something crowd, we went huntingfor an ice-cream shop. Beals Ice Cream iswonderful and homemade, a confectionwhich, in the rest of our vacation, we wereunable to equal. We suggest chocolate and– in case you stop by – one scoop is plenty.We returned happily to the bed of pillowsat the Wyndham and rested for theadventure we had planned for the nextday: Old Orchard Beach. We found thefamous beach more expansive than wehad imagined – it extends for miles – andmuch more family-friendly than manyof its sister beaches further south. At OldOrchard Beach, the ocean is at its warmestin late July and early August.We left Old Orchard Beach a little moretanned and much more relaxed. The beachis half an hour from Portland. Were welocal residents, we would be there everyweekend in the summer – either for theswimming or for the picturesque ConeyIsland-type carnival which runs along thebeach.The convertible and the gorgeous highwayroute made it easier to tear ourselvesaway from the beach. There really is nobetter way to travel. Highway 95 runsstraight up from Portland to Kittery. Perhapsone of the most famous shoppingtowns in the U.S., Kittery comes right outof an Abercrombie & Fitch catalogue. Ithas an endless selection of retail and outletPortland offers great shopping, restaurants, parks and architecture, together with the feeling that youare in the “beating heart of New England.”stores (J. Crew, Polo Ralph Lauren, LizClaiborne, Jones New York and TommyHilfiger). After resisting temptation in theinterest of trunk-space and self-restraint,we stopped by Bob’s Clam Hut (wherethe ice cream gave Beals a good run forits money) and the Starbucks across thestreet, where we did do some shopping,leaving with two five-pound bags of Gazeboblend. (Starbucks coffee in the U.S.is almost half the price of Starbucks coffeein Canada.) The service was extraordinary– as it was everywhere we went in Kittery.You can’t go to Kittery and not go toKennebunk and Kennebunkport. Bothprosperous towns (which got their namesfrom the Abenaki people’s term for “thelong cut bank”), they are a great tourismdestination for people who enjoy seeingthe homes of some of America’s most af-istockdiplomat and international canada 57

DESTINATIONS|MaineJessie Reynolds”We paddled one of the most beautiful places we’d ever seen.“fluent families. The most famous – or infamous– is the estate known as “the BushCompound” (or, if you insist, Walker’sPoint), the vacation home of former presidentGeorge Herbert Walker Bush. Thecompound is situated on a highly desirableand highly defendable rock outcroppingin Kennebunkport.The GPS came in handy in Kennebunkportas sightseeing there should mostly bedone from the car both on and just off thetown’s coastal road. A series of cul-de-sacsin the area, just off this route, provided atour of breathtaking homes. After an hourof admiring these abodes, we headed backinto town and walked the narrow, windingstreets of Kennebunkport. Not to beoutdone, Aunt Marie’s, the pre-eminentlocal ice-cream parlour, gave us a taste ofthe ice cream of the aristocracy. Moneymight just buy happiness after all.Leaving for our four-hour journey toMillinocket, a small town in NorthernMaine, was one of the more difficult thingswe had to do. However, once on the road,we discovered that the drive was full offresh air, varied scenery and lovely countryroads. We arrived at the Econo LodgeInn & Suites, a hotel we selected by defaultas the town has a population of perhaps5,000 and no more than a few hotels. Wedid appreciate the complimentary breakfastand indoor pool but the room itselfwas brown, basic and bereft of superfluouspillows.Up early the next morning, we headedto the Trading Post, a meeting-place andsell-all store 30 minutes out of town inBaxter State Park. After asking aroundto determine the best way to explore thepark, we found Katahdin Air, a small outfitwhich provides kayak and canoe rentalsas well as helicopter tours over the parkand Mount Katahdin. We selected a twopersonkayak and, at times not so gracefully,made our way across a fair portionof Ambejejus Lake, a lake of clear, cold jetblackwater. It was one of the most beautifulplaces either of us had ever been.We found our way to a small uninhabitedisland, pulled the kayak ashoreand sat on a giant boulder looking at themountain from a distance. The mountain isthe starting point of the Appalachian Trailand contains the highest peak in Maine.It provided an unparalleled backdrop tothe photos we took from the kayak. Aftera few hours, we returned the kayak tothe rental shop. The staff was surprisedto see us. It turns out that most of theirrentals are for days or weeks, not hours.Exhausted, we headed to town to find arestaurant, settling in at the AppalachianTrail Café.Later that evening, our search for a vibrantnight-life experience led us to EastMillinocket (population: 2,000). We werelucky to find the bar, Pam and Ivy’s, locatedbetween a used-car dealership anda row of dilapidated houses. Donald, oneof the locals, picked up where Bramps hadleft off in Portland and discussed with us,over a few locally-brewed favourites, thefailing economy of the town due to theclosure of a nearby pulp and paper mill.Once a bustling industrial town, East Millinocketwas slowly closing down, resultingin a sudden, sharp drop in population.During the few hours we were at thepub, we could see that the communityremains tightly-knit. Each person whocame in knew every other person. Later inthe evening, the lights were turned on andthe music quieted in memory of a personwho had been murdered in the town someyears ago. Once a year, on the anniversarydate, the crime is solemnly remembered.By chance, we were there for the observance.Feeling enriched, we returned to58SPRING 09 | APR–JUN

Maine|DESTINATIONSour hotel and reflected on the incrediblesense of acceptance we had felt amongstrangers in such a short time.Driving from Millinocket, we stopped inBangor, perhaps most famously known asthe place where horror writer Stephen Kinglives. Bangor, itself, is sadly unremarkable,a once affluent and busy town which nowhas abandoned stores, empty streets anda slightly melancholy feel. It’s no wonderthat Mr. King found literary motivationfrom his childhood experiences growingup in Maine. Any of the residents can pointout his address, insinuating that they’veheard the question numerous times before.But just to be sure, the house has red paint,a gothic style and a black cast-iron fenceadorned with bats and cobwebs. The fencegives tourists something to photograph.Taking a break from Maine’s southerncoastal cities, we drove to Acadia NationalPark. In Canada, of course, we have noshortage of national parks. Acadia NationalPark, however, offers the naturalbeauty you expect from a park that boasts47,000 acres of mountains, oceanfrontbeaches, rocky shores, forests and lakes. Italso boasts numerous ocean-front sandybeaches – not to mention impeccableroads, great visitor-assistance servicesand Jordon Pond House, a picturesquerestaurant.We made a stop at Thunder Hole, sonamed because a thunderous noise eruptsfrom inside a small cavern when oceanwaves roll in at high tide. We dallied atEcho Lake, which features a fine sandbeach and excellent swimming, directlybeside the 839-foot Beech Mountain. Wedragged ourselves away only with thesetting sun. On the one-way road out ofthe park, we passed gorgeous views theentire way.For a wind-in-your-hair vacation, Canadiansoften overlook Maine, selectingeither Florida in winter or New York Statein summer. Yet Maine offers perhaps awider variety of attractions than either ofthese other states: ocean swimming, sophisticatedurban centres, national parks,the splendid White Mountains, the smalltowns that evoke a New England senseof history and community. We concludedto our own satisfaction that that Maine isfully competitive with any other drivingdestination.Look no further … Quality counts!Contact us for all your temporaryand permanent staffing needs!info@artemp.ca 613-232-9767www.artemp.ca294 ALBERT STREET, SUITE 104, OTTAWA K1P 6E6No Extra Feesfor DiplomatsDiplomats and embassy employeesmay exchange their personal chequeswithout paying extra fees. Accu-RateCorporation specializes in electronic andcheque payments in over 55 currencies.-For your personalconsultation please call:Marie BoivinManaging Director613-596-5505 ext. 101marie@accu-rate.caJessie Reynolds and Matt Renshaw travelled5,000 kilometers in 14 days andspent roughly $2,500 (including the cost ofice cream cones) for their Maine vacation.Accu-RateCorporationForeign Exchange & International Payment Serviceswww.accu-rate.caAccu-Rate Corporation2573 Carling Ave.(613) 596-5505World Exchange Plaza111 Albert St.(613) 238-8454diplomat and international canada 59

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