September-October201.. - Dogs Naturally Magazine

hard way. I understand that people new to raw feeding all havethe same question: ‘what exactly do I feed’? All too often, theyare not given the information or confidence they need to beginand this is an unfortunate barrier to getting their dog off kibble.I hope that what follows is not a recipe plan but rather an outlineof what I have learned in my years of study and observation.This is the way I choose to feed my dogs. I don’t know if itis the right way, nor does anyone else. I certainly do not advocatethis as the only way to raw feed, nor would I condemn peoplewho choose to feed differently. As you will learn, therereally are only a few hard and fast rules in nutrition and unfortunately,the more you learn, the more you discover that youreally don’t know much at all. So you roll with the punches anddo the best you can with the knowledge you have at the time.My method of feeding is not easily categorized into one of thecurrently popular groups (such as prey model, Bones and RawFood, or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food, etc.). If I had tolabel my diet, I would call it ‘My Best Guess Based On ExperienceAnd Research’. In time, you will come up with your own“Best Guess Based on Experience Diet’ but in the meantime,here are some tips to help you along the way.WHAT TO FEEDOne common concern with raw feeding is that it is not‘complete and balanced’. This is untrue for two reasons. First,nobody knows what complete and balanced is, so it is difficultto make this claim. Second, balance can occur over time: everymeal does not need to be completely balanced as long as thenutritional needs of the dog are met over the long run. Youdon’t calculate the exact percentages of protein and carbohydrates,and the exact amount of vitamins and minerals in eachof your meals, and you don’t have to do it with your dog’smeals. If you are prudent, then it will balance out over time.The majority of my dogs’ diet (about 50%) is raw, meaty bones(RMB). This can include chicken backs, wings and necks (or evenwhole carcasses), lamb necks, pork necks, turkey necks, ox tails,beef ribs, turkey tails; any meaty bone that can be completelyconsumed by your dog. If you are feeding meatier meals (turkeyor lamb necks), feed about 60% RMB, if your choices are bonier(chicken backs, pork necks, wings or ribs), feed about 40% RMB.Large, weight bearing bones such as marrow and knuckle bonesare not considered RMB’s if the dog is not able to consume theRAW FEEDING GUIDELINESThe key points to remember with a raw diet are: Balance over time The calcium and phosphorus ratio should be 1:1. Meats arehigh in phosphorus, bones are high in calcium and wholeprey, fish, eggs and tripe have a balanced ratio. Organ meat should not exceed 15% of the diet. Feed liveronce a week (or several small servings per week) and try tofind an organic source if possible because the liver is responsiblefor filtering toxins out of the body. Feel free to feed 'weird and icky things' such as chickenfeet, beef trachea, tails, lung, kidney, testicles and pizzles.Beef trachea, trim, chicken and turkey feet are loaded innatural chondroitin and glucosamine which help to buildhealthy joints. If feeding pork or salmon, be certain to freeze the meat fortwo weeks before feeding to reduce the small risk of parasites. NEVER feed cooked bones of any type. Raw bones are softenough to bend and digest easily. For optimal safety, mealtimes should always be supervised.Try to find grass fed animals that are not given hormones ormedications if possible. Younger animals in general will haveaccumulated fewer toxins to pass on to your dog.A touching and informative account of the benefitsand obstacles to creating safe and social environmentsfor off-leash dogs. By Julie Walsh.Release date: January 2011www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com September/October 2010 | 39