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May/June 2009: Volume 17, Number 3 - USA Shooting

May/June 2009: Volume 17, Number 3 - USA Shooting

May/June 2009: Volume 17, Number 3 - USA Shooting

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ColumnsFrom the Editor Aim with AMU Inside the BlueOn the Firing Line Coaches’ CornerGrip Fitting 102By SFC Richard Merrill and the <strong>USA</strong>MU International Pistol TeamIn with a grip that already fits pretty well.In my previous column, we discussed the logic of grip-fitting andthe various ways to test the “feel” of a grip. I encouraged you to startNew pistols are almost always available with different sized gripsso it’s important to tell the dealer the grip size you would like on yournew pistol. You should also inquire about fees to place a specifiedgrip on the pistol. If you are purchasing a used pistol, it is often easierin the long run to buy a new grip that is close to the right size insteadof trying to add lots of filler to that large grip when you have an extrasmall hand. The opposite can happen by taking too much support offa grip when trying to fit your large hand into a small grip. Pilkguns isusually set up on the range at the <strong>USA</strong> <strong>Shooting</strong> Rifle/Pistol NationalChampionships with all different types and sizes of grips and wouldbe happy to help you find what you are looking for. Even if you donot buy a grip, you will know which grips fit better.Do not neglect the importance of safety equipment in grip fitting.Safety glasses are a must when working with high-speed rotarytools (such as a Dremel tool) or any other tools that put wood chipsor filler into the air. A rotary tool removes wood and filler in tightcurved spots. These tools are very versatile and you can purchasethem at any home improvement store. You can vary the speed togrind hard wood, soft wood and filler. The bits I prefer are the coursesanding drums. They are available in several sizes, which is helpfulfor working the various and dynamic shapes of a grip. Another bit Iuse is the cut-off disk for cutting the fine line in grip halves after youhave filled across the grip seam. You’ll also need a mask. Grindingon filler releases chemicals and can cause damage to the lungs. Disposablegloves are also useful; I have seen some pretty bad chemicalburns from filler when people put it on the grip and then stick theirhand in the filler until it dries in order to get the lines correct. Also,ear plugs help when using power tools if for nothing more than tohelp keep your sanity.Before I discuss the fitting of the grip, I want to review some vocabulary.When I refer to a wood remover, I am referring to the rotarytool, file, sand paper, rasp or anything else that could remove woodand filler. The main parts of the grip are as follows (starting from thewrist and moving to the finger tips): The palm shelf supports yourhand on the pistol, and the thumb rest supports your thumb on thepistol. The crotch lies under the rear sight and is in contact with theweb between your thumb and index finger. The palm ridge line is theline from your wrist towards your fingers. The ball is the portion ofthe grip that fits into the space formed as you cup your palm. Movingtowards the fingers is the valley where the meat right below yourfingers forms a valley in the grip. Next, there is the finger ridgelinewhere the fingers and the palm meet. Between your middle fingerand trigger finger is the middle finger shelf. Finally, there are thefinger grooves with the three segments of the fingers being the lowersegment, middle segment and tip segment of the fingers.In Grip Fitting 103, we will discuss in detail the actual fitting ofthe grip using the terms above, as well as the other important elementsdiscussed in Grip Fitting 101.Until next issue, keep your sights aligned and STAY ARMYSTRONG!

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