Number in series 21; Year of publication 1927 - Fell and Rock ...

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324 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB JOURNAL.snow below and rotten rocks above. A dump was made oftent-sac, crampons and food. The weather looked anything butpromising, but we spent some time gazing across the complicatedGlacier du Freyney at the Aiguilles Noire and Blanche deP&6ret, with the curious Dames Anglaises between. TheY-shaped couloir for our promised ascent looked particularlysteep, and all day long the Dames Anglaises behaved in a mostdiscourteous and unladylike manner by constantly sendingdown stones and debris.The fourth day, we started early by lantern, the sky beingdark with thick clouds, and ascended to the Col de l'lnnominata.Here a halt was called in order to watch the weather becomingsteadily worse. After food, and collecting our cache, we descendedalmost to the Freyney Glacier before definitely decidingto turn back. It was when re-ascending this side that the useof the so-called reversed abseil was discovered, a novelty thatgreatly intrigued our " climbing mechanic."At the writer's suggestion, the other two reluctantly consentedto " tick off " the Aiguille Joseph Croux, but as thisproved to have a fine 150-foot rock pitch of the standard of aLake District severe, and was a splendid view-point to boot, thedigression was later voted as quite worth while. Rain fell againheavily that evening.The next day was no better for our expedition, and supplieswould not suffice for a later start, so we descended to Courmayeur.The leader had the misfortune to damage his foot in crossingthe glacier stream swollen by the night's rain. We again visitedthe tea-garden and met some friends.On the sixth day, the " Realist " had to leave, as his holidaywas nearly over, so after seeing him off, the leader and thewriter made rather a late start for the Gamba hut. Again, allequipment and food was reduced to a minimum, the idea beingto push on rapidly while favourable conditions lasted. Themoon was nearly full, and although diligent search had failed toreveal a reliable barometer in Courmayeur, signs were hopeful,and even the guides predicted good weather.We reached the Gamba hut at about 2-30 p.m., and fed andrested for a couple of hours. The leader's foot was very painful,but he decided to continue. We set off at 5-15 p.m. and retraced
A TRAVERSE OF THE AIGUILLE BLANCHE DE P£T£RET. 325our well-trodden route to the Col de l'lnnominata in record time,and so down to the Freyney Glacier. The crossing of this, themost compUcated and broken-up glacier in the Alps, wouldobviously be difficult. Above the huge wall of seracs on our left,a comparatively smooth slope led directly to the foot of ourcouloir, but to surmount the first obstacle would certainlytake time, and might prove impossible. The leader, therefore,boldly set out to cross beneath the precipitous wall, and, hardlyever hesitating, forced a way through the compUcated maze offaUen seracs and gaping crevasses right to the foot of the formidablebergschrund which now barred our progress. The firstattempt to surmount it by utilising the cone of avalanche debriswhich rose to within five feet of the upper lip was frustratedby stones falling even at that late hour. A passage had to bemade along the lower Up, under the overhang, to a precarioussnow-bridge on the left. Three hours after leaving the hut,and stiU in dayUght, we stood at the foot of our couloir.While we had some food here the twiUght deepened, and thefuU moon would now be our lamp. The snow was found to be inexcellent condition, so that we were able to walk up the couloirin crampons, despite the steep angle. Half the snow was in deepshadow, and the spectacle behind us of the Freyney Glacier inmoonlight was most impressive. The left-hand branch of thecouloir, leading to the Breche Nord des Dames Anglaises, w»siced, and took up much time in step-cutting. The right-handgroove was used by Young in the first ascent of l'lsolee. Theavalanche track, so conspicuous from afar, proved at closequarters to be a groove ten feet deep, down which stones wereconstantly falling.Our route, ascended only a few times* previously, and probablynever before by a guideless party, took to the rocks of the AiguilleBlanche de Peteret on the left, about 150 feet below the actualcol to the north of l'lsolee. The profile angle at this part isabout 85°, so a movement was made to the left for some distance.The quality of the rock here, and indeed on the wholemountain, was the worst the leader had seen in all his experience.One part of the traverse consisted of a descending ledge 90 feetlong, narrow, and with a considerable overhang tending to push• See A.J., 39. 336.
Page 1 and 2: Pkoto byG. S. Bower.AIGUILLE BLANCH
Page 3: 323A TRAVERSE OF THE AIGUILLEBLANCH
Page 7 and 8: A TRAVERSE OF THE AIGUILLE BLANCHE
Page 9 and 10: A TRAVERSE OF THE AIGUILLE BLANCHE
Page 11 and 12: REMINISCENCES OF A SEPTUAGENARIAN.
Page 14: 334FAILURESBY J. H. DOUGHTY.It is n
Page 17 and 18: FAILURES. 337of personal feeling. A
Page 19 and 20: FAILURES. 339planted with uncanny s
Page 21 and 22: FAILURES. 341makes (or need make) b
Page 23 and 24: ROUND ABOUT NANDA DEVI IN 1926. 343
Page 25 and 26: ROUND ABOUR NANDA DEVI IN 1926. 345
Page 33 and 34: M*? THOIWASp«.$smq "t^e. Edelweiss
Page 35 and 36: 354 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB
Page 39 and 40: 358CLUB HISTORYBY E. SCANTLEBURY.Th
Page 41 and 42: CLUB HISTORY 359he was going to be
Page 43 and 44: CLUB HISTORY 361day dinner. I said
Page 45 and 46: Photo byTHE BIRTHDAY CAKE.G. P. Abr
Page 51 and 52: THE COMING-OF-AGE. 367At an appropr
Page 53 and 54: THE ROCK AND FELL 369So fill your g
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THE FELL AND ROCK CLUB JOURNAL AND
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SOME REFLECTIONS AND AN INVITATION.
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SOME REFLECTIONS AND AN INVITATION.
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SOME ATTEMPTS WITH THE G.H.M. 377ar
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SOME ATTEMPTS WITH THE G.H.M. 379ar
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SOME ATTEMPTS WITH THE G.H.M. 381It
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flr.Gif
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384 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB
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390NEW YEAR'S DAYA REMINISCENCE AND
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392SAMPLING SPACIOUS SCOTLANDBY R.
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-.^.-^ »fiii)MwiiTii*rii ini iriii
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404AFTER AN ACCIDENTBy R. S. T. CHO
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414IN MEMORIAMHERBERT PORRITT CAIN,
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422EDITOR'S NOTESDeath has for the
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*Ti^«
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INDEX.PAGEDolomite Road near Pordoi
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Climbs on Great GableRock-Climbing
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CONTENTS.PAGEThe Fell and Rock Club
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Number in series 21; Year of publication 1927 - Fell and Rock ...

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