Number in series 21; Year of publication 1927 - Fell and Rock ...
Number in series 21; Year of publication 1927 - Fell and Rock ...
Number in series 21; Year of publication 1927 - Fell and Rock ...
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
326 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB JOURNAL.the climber <strong>of</strong>f. The fragile rock seemed to come away at atouch. The effect was somewhat impressive, with a drop <strong>of</strong>several hundreds <strong>of</strong> feet on to the glacier beneath, not dim<strong>in</strong>ishedby the weird unearthly appearance as seen <strong>in</strong> the moonlight.The contrast between the clear, cold whiteness <strong>of</strong> the snow <strong>and</strong>the <strong>in</strong>ky blackness <strong>of</strong> the precipices across the glacier had all theunreality <strong>of</strong> a dream.The rocks were not easy, <strong>and</strong> the conditions did not decreasethe difficulty, so that our progress was almost <strong>in</strong>credibly slow.The rucksacs added to the toil, each with its demon <strong>of</strong> unrestmost lively at the balance movements, <strong>and</strong> after five hours <strong>of</strong>strenuous climb<strong>in</strong>g, we were not yet level with the tops <strong>of</strong> theDames Anglaises. The moon was gett<strong>in</strong>g to a less favourableposition, <strong>and</strong> when we reached a rocky p<strong>in</strong>nacle, we decided tohalt. There was just room between the p<strong>in</strong>nacle <strong>and</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong>for both <strong>of</strong> us to lie flat, on one side a snow cornice, on theother a considerable drop. We estimated our rest<strong>in</strong>g-placeto be about 11,500 feet up. Dur<strong>in</strong>g the meal which followed,the writer lighted a c<strong>and</strong>le <strong>and</strong> this was seen by some <strong>of</strong> thefriends we had left at the Gamba hut.Our method <strong>of</strong> us<strong>in</strong>g the tent-sac was probably at fault, butsleep was impossible <strong>and</strong>, after a couple <strong>of</strong> hours <strong>of</strong> troubledrest <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>tense cold, another hot meal was prepared, <strong>and</strong> we set<strong>of</strong>f at about 5-30 a.m.The go<strong>in</strong>g was still far from easy, <strong>and</strong> after three hours we ateaga<strong>in</strong>. It was rather dishearten<strong>in</strong>g (to the writer at least) t<strong>of</strong><strong>in</strong>d that <strong>in</strong> relation to the Aiguille Noire we scarcely seemedto have risen at all. Its black, forbidd<strong>in</strong>g tower still loomedabove us, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> our path the Gr<strong>and</strong> Gendarme rose impregnable.We moved to pass it on the right, over steep slabs,<strong>and</strong> across a dangerous gully. The few small clouds which wehad seen at dawn were now <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> number <strong>and</strong> size, <strong>and</strong>the weather looked anyth<strong>in</strong>g but promis<strong>in</strong>g. The threat <strong>of</strong> badweather had come at the worst possible time for us. To returndown such steep rock would l<strong>and</strong> us on the couloir at the height<strong>of</strong> the bombardment from the Dames Anglaises. To descend tothe Brenva Glacier would be even more fatal. To advance wouldl<strong>and</strong> us at the Col de P6t6ret with no hope <strong>of</strong> cont<strong>in</strong>u<strong>in</strong>g up theP&£ret Ridge if the weather got worse; but if it held for a
Change language