GTM Libra - Main build manual

GTM Libra - Main build manual

GTM Libra - Main build manual


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1. Bonnet and Boot fixings<br />

2. Carpets and interior fittings<br />

3. Exterior Panels<br />

4. Engine<br />

5. Front and Rear suspension<br />

6. Battery, Heater, Radiator and Petrol tank<br />

7. Lights<br />

8. Windscreen and Wipers<br />

9. Electronics and wiring<br />

10. Pedal Box and Gear change<br />

11. Exhaust<br />

12. Setting up your <strong>GTM</strong> for the road<br />

13. Notes, Supplements and Templates<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 0.1


BEAM END COVERS……………………………………………1.2<br />


Assembly…………………………………………....1.2<br />

BONNET SPLITTER……………………………………………..1.3<br />

BOOT, BOOTLOCK AND HINGES……………………………1.4<br />

Assembly…………………………………………...1.4<br />


Assembly…………………………………………...1.6<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 1.1


Beam end covers are used at the rear of the sills to cover the mountings for<br />

the rearward facing wishbones. These covers are non structural.<br />

Beam End Covers Assembly<br />

Drill two clearance holes Ø7mm through the two ends of the rebated face of<br />

the beam end covers. Place the covers onto the ends of the sills and mark<br />

the position of the holes previously drilled. Drill out these marks with a<br />

tapping side drill for the self tapping screw. Attach the covers with two self<br />

tapping screws.<br />


The bonnet of the <strong>Libra</strong> pivots forward to allow access to the radiator fan,<br />

battery and spare wheel. When it is shut it is fixed in position by five<br />

fasteners. These fasteners hold the bonnet rigidly to the tub and prevent any<br />

movement. A front splitter mould is fitted to the front edge of the bonnet in<br />

front of the radiator.<br />

Bonnet and front splitter mould assembly<br />

This assembly should be undertaken with the radiator ducting T0107 attached<br />

to monocoque T0100.<br />

Drill two pilot holes from the inside of the radiator ducting T0107 in the<br />

positions shown in the bottom front corners of the ducting. From the outside<br />

of the radiator ducting now open these holes up with a hole saw to<br />

approximately 20mm. Use pivot holder T0609 as a template and work from<br />

the outside of the moulding. Drill two Ø6mm holes through the pivot holder<br />

into the moulding with the boss of the pivot holder through the previously<br />

drilled Ø20mm clearance hole. The pivot holder should be positioned with the<br />

base of the triangle parallel to the base of the radiator ducting and the<br />

hypotenuse facing the driver or passenger. Now open these four holes up to<br />

approximately Ø15mm with a hole saw.<br />

Working from the outside of the radiator ducting push two 6mm Nyloc nuts<br />

and washers through the retaining plate T0608 and attach pivot holder T0609.<br />

This assembly should now give a certain amount of adjustment up and down,<br />

forwards and backwards and can be nipped up prior to fitting the bonnet.<br />

Attach the three Spiro clip plates T0602 to the monocoque using 15mm long,<br />

No 8 self tapping screws. At this stage do not insert any packing washers<br />

between the Spiro clip plate and monocoque. Consult drawings No 19&21<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 1.2

and attach the two sill mounting brackets T0613 to the top of the sills using<br />

four 15mm long No 8 self tapping screws. The positions for all these<br />

mountings are indicated on the monocoque by small indentations. Fit five<br />

fairing ‘U’ nuts T0615 to the brackets previously mounted to the monocoque.<br />

In the bonnet, mark and pilot drill two holes for the fitting of the pivot bushes<br />

T0611. Drill Ø13mm and fit the two bushes.<br />

The bonnet can now be placed over the radiator ducting and two pivot pins<br />

T0610 inserted from within the ducting. Insert two ‘R’ clips through the hole of<br />

the pivot holder T0609 and pin T0610.<br />

The position of the bonnet pins can now be adjusted by loosening the four<br />

Ø6mm Nyloc nuts on the inside of the radiator ducting. Adjust the bottom<br />

edge of the bonnet so that it is level with the bottom edge of the ducting. The<br />

forwards and backward position of the bonnet can be determined by where<br />

the bonnet fits on top of the sill. Once you are certain you have these in the<br />

correct relative positions tighten the four Ø6mm lock nuts from within the<br />

radiator ducting.<br />

Pilot drill the five holes necessary for the fairing fasteners T0600 and open out<br />

to Ø6mm clearance. The fairing fasteners can now be used and the position<br />

of the fairing mounting brackets finally adjusted.<br />

Bonnet splitter<br />

The front splitter mould is held in place by two bighead fasteners TO648 and<br />

two No 8 self tapping screws. Within the centre of the rebate for the splitter<br />

mould mark two hole positions 200mm from the centre of the car.<br />

Drill these holes to Ø6mm. Place the splitter mould in its position and mark<br />

through the Ø6mm holes already drilled onto the back face of the splitter<br />

mould.<br />

Bond two bighead fasteners TO648 to the inner face of the splitter mould in<br />

the positions you have just marked using body filler.<br />

Slot the Ø6mm holes drilled in the bonnet to enable the top hat studs to go<br />

through easily and bolt up on the rear face.<br />

Out of sight of the front of the car drill through and mount the bottom corner<br />

with No 8 self tapping screws.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 1.2


The <strong>Libra</strong> has a good size boot located at the back of the car above the<br />

exhaust system. This boot has an external lid to allow easy access. The<br />

boot is lockable from the outside and has its own hinging and support stay<br />

mechanism. The boot is large enough to accept a full size set of golf clubs.<br />

Boot, Boot lock and Hinge assembly<br />

Refer to drawing No 20. The boot hinge mountings TO643 are mounted to<br />

the rear panel TO102 on the small rectangular faces in the rear quarters of the<br />

rear screen. The rear screen needs to be removed before the boot can be<br />

fitted.<br />

From the inside of the rear screen aperture mark the four Ø6mm clearance<br />

slots as indicated on the drawing. Use the boot hinge mounting bike back<br />

plate TO644 as an accurate guide to the centre positions. The slots will be<br />

covered by this component when the boot is finally assembled.<br />

Take the boot lid TO103 and turn it upside down on some suitable clean and<br />

protective surface. Mark the position of the four boot hinge location holes on<br />

the outside surface of the inner strengthening frames as shown on the<br />

diagram. Use boot hinge backing plate TO641 as an accurate guide to the<br />

centre position and slot the holes Ø6mm clearance to give yourself sufficient<br />

room to adjust the boot panel when assembled. Mount the two boot hinges to<br />

the strengthening frame using four Ø6mm socket cap screws and washers<br />

with the backing plates on the inside of the box. By loosening the screws the<br />

boot hinges should slide for adjustment against the outside face of the<br />

strengthening boxes.<br />

Referring to the diagram showing the view from within the boot mount the two<br />

boot hinge mountings TO643 to the boot hinges TO640 using the boot hinge<br />

pivot pins TO642. Note that the boot hinge mountings when attached to the<br />

rear panel make sure the pivot pins are located as close as possible to the top<br />

surface of the rear panel. The pivot pins require a small amount of grease to<br />

make them work satisfactorily.<br />

Fit the boot panel to the car. Holding the boot panel open, position the boot<br />

hinge mounting with one hand and attach the boot hinge mounting to the rear<br />

panel using the boot hinge mounting backing plate and four Ø6 x 25mm long<br />

socket cap screws and washers. You may require the assistance of another<br />

person to hold the boot open while undertaking this operation.<br />

The boot can now be opened and closed. It can also be adjusted to give an<br />

equal gap around the boot aperture and to line up the panels with the outside<br />

surfaces. Take your time doing this operation, as it is extremely important for<br />

the use of the car that the panel opens and closes without difficulty.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 1.3

Mount the boot stay slider TO645 to the vertical surface of the rear boot panel<br />

inside the boot in the position indicated on the view from within the boot. Use<br />

the slider as a template to locate the hole positions and drill Ø6mm clearance<br />

holes. Mount the slider to the boot panel using two 20 x Ø6mm socket cap<br />

screws, washers and Nyloc nuts.<br />

Fit the boot stay rod TO646 to the hole in the bottom corner of the boot hinge<br />

and to the boot stay slider using the spring fixings TO647. Do not grease this<br />

slider as in operation it is necessary to touch the slider to lock the boot in the<br />

open position. By lifting the boot slightly the slider should unlock<br />

automatically.<br />

Adjust the height of the boot stay slider to obtain the maximum boot lid<br />

opening without the boot lid top corners hitting the rear Perspex screen.<br />

Mount the boot latch TO652 to the outside surface of the boot panel under the<br />

position for the number plate in the position shown on the diagram. Use the<br />

latch to determine the position of the holes required.<br />

Drill or hole saw Ø20mm hole in the corner of the rebate in the boot lid for the<br />

boot latch as shown on the diagram. This is to allow the operating rod to pass<br />

through it towards the position.<br />

Mark the centre of the key position on the left-hand side on the boot lid within<br />

the recess on the mouldings. Hole saw an Ø25mm hole. File the two anti<br />

rotation notches in this hole.<br />

Due to the increased thickness of the glass fibre body compared to the steel<br />

body, the notches in the K Series Rover Metro lock have to be wider to enable<br />

the retaining clip to work satisfactorily. Mount the lock in a vice and carefully<br />

saw the door lock barrel to increase the width of the notches to approximately<br />

4-5 mm. The lock can now be assembled to the boot using the standard<br />

Rover Metro retaining spring.<br />

Mount the boot latch to the boot lid using two Ø6 x 20mm long socket cap<br />

screws, 4 large washers and 2 Nyloc nuts. Take approximately 200mm of the<br />

door rod wire TO523 and form a 10mm long right angle bit at one end. Feed<br />

the other end of the wire through the boot latch and through the hole in the<br />

moulding, towards the lock on the left-hand side of the boot. With the boot<br />

lock operating lever in the vertical position, mark the position on the wire and<br />

cut and form a right angle bend. Connect the rod to the lock and using the<br />

boot striker <strong>manual</strong>ly into the boot latch, check that the latch and team<br />

mechanism operates correctly and freely.<br />

Mount the boot striker TO653 to the rear panel as shown on the diagram<br />

using two Ø6 x 20mm long socket caps, screws, washers and Nyloc nuts.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 1.4

Fit the boot rubber seal TO655 to the boot aperture finishing the seal at a<br />

position approximately 200mm either side of the position of the boot striker.<br />

The boot can now be finally adjusted and fitted by adjusting the hinge<br />

positions and the position of the boot striker in the boot lid. Spend some time<br />

getting it to work perfectly so that it will not catch when in operation. Grease<br />

the latch sparingly.<br />


The <strong>Libra</strong> utilises a full size spare wheel mounted in the front compartment of<br />

the <strong>Libra</strong>. The wheel is mounted in the engine ducting above the battery. The<br />

area inside the spare wheel is used to hold the jack tools for the <strong>Libra</strong> and<br />

forms the battery box lid.<br />

Spare Wheel mould and Spare Wheel assembly<br />

There are two 6mm studs captivated into the top of the battery mounting and<br />

these studs coincide with indentations marked on the spare wheel mould.<br />

Drill out these indentations with a Ø6mm clearance hole and place the spare<br />

wheel mould over the top of the battery mounting. The spare wheel mould<br />

holds the battery in place and gives you space for a few tools. It is held in<br />

place by two Ø6mm thumb screws.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 1.5


CARPETS........................................................................2.2<br />

Carpets assembly…………………………......2.2<br />

DASHBOARD COVER………………………………………2.3<br />



SEATS AND RUNNERS…………………………………….2.6<br />

Assembly........................................................2.6<br />

SEAT BELTS…………………………………………………2.7<br />


SOFT TRIM…………………………………………………..2.10<br />


INSTRUMENT TRIM………………………………………...2.11<br />

TRIMMING HARD PANELS………………………………..2.12<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 1.6


The <strong>GTM</strong> <strong>Libra</strong> comes with a comprehensive carpet pack ready cut and<br />

bound. It comprises of seventeen individual carpet pieces. The seventeenth<br />

being in the boot. By referring to drawing No 30, it should be possible to<br />

identify the carpet patterns and fit them loosely into your car to see which<br />

areas are covered by the carpet set. At this stage do not glue the carpets in<br />

place as it is preferable to fit the soft trimming to the top of the monocoque or<br />

the optional hard trim panels before fitting the carpet set. This is to ensure<br />

any glue that falls from the top will not ruin the carpets. Once the carpet set<br />

has been loosely fitted it should be clear the area that has to be trimmed by<br />

the soft trim material. The inner doors and the dashboard are covered by<br />

hard trim panels provided within the standard kit.<br />

Carpets assembly<br />

All the carpets within the monocoque are glued directly to the glass fibre<br />

surface and therefore before you start fitting the carpets make sure that there<br />

are not any sharp areas protruding into the monocoque. Where holes are cut<br />

or trimmed to allow access into the monocoque for example seat belt<br />

mountings or rear suspension hangers, it is best if they are covered with either<br />

aluminium or hardboard glued over the hole to form a flat surface for the<br />

carpets to be glued to. Covering the holes also prevents any noise<br />

transmitting through into the monocoque.<br />

A convenient way of dealing with the seat belt mountings that are covered by<br />

the carpet is to captivate the seat belt mounts on the reverse surface by taking<br />

the seat belt mounting out and roughing up the mating surface with production<br />

paper. Put a small amount of body filler on it so that when you tighten up the<br />

seat belt mounting bolt it effectively captivates the seat belt mounting plates.<br />

This means that when you are fitting your carpets you only have to drill a hole<br />

in the carpets and then fit the seat belt mounts, preventing having to trim the<br />

carpets around the seat belt mountings.<br />

The carpets are glued directly to the glass fibre surface using a contact<br />

adhesive. Carefully follow the instructions on the container when fitting the<br />

carpets.<br />

Fit carpets one and two over the lower front wishbone mountings. It will be<br />

necessary to cut these (and fold flanges). Do not attempt to fit these<br />

immediately, dry fit the carpets over the area to be covered before putting any<br />

glue in place. Glue the carpets into position.<br />

Carpet pieces three and four run from the box sections previously covered<br />

and over the box section that comes down from the dashboard to the sills.<br />

Where the carpet pieces meet the sill, it is necessary to cut the carpet to allow<br />

it to be glued over the top of the sill section. This is to ensure that when<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 2.1

carpet five and six go over it the sill cannot be seen at the join. Where the<br />

carpet piece comes up to the door shut face take the carpet to the face and<br />

along the shut where the sealing rubber fits over and slightly over the top.<br />

This ensures that when you fit the sealing rubber to the door shut face it does<br />

not push off the carpet. Trim the carpet at this point so that you do not get an<br />

excessive amount of carpet thus preventing the sealing rubber fitting correctly.<br />

Fit carpet piece ten over the tunnel. The front edge will have to be cut in two<br />

places to allow the front of the tunnel carpet piece to fold over the toe board.<br />

Holding the carpet piece in place, fold the carpet down the sides of the tunnel<br />

and mark where the carpet piece goes over the box section that holds the<br />

front of the seat runner. Now carefully cut two slits in the carpet so that the<br />

carpet folds over the top of the box section and down the sides.<br />

Cut the hole for the gear change using the hole in the tunnel as a template.<br />

Glue this carpet into place now but do not glue the flaps over the floor plan at<br />

this stage as it is more convenient to do this when you fit carpet pieces nine<br />

and twelve over the seat box sections. Fit carpet pieces five and six to the sill<br />

box sections. Dry fit the carpet pieces and glue the carpet to the top face of<br />

the sill. This will hold the carpet while you mark and cut it to fit. Cut the door<br />

seal piece in the same manner as you cut the seal on carpet pieces three and<br />

four. Cut the carpet where it fits over the seat box section in a similar manner<br />

to the tunnel section carpet piece. Now fully glue the carpet along the vertical<br />

face of the sill but do not glue the bottom flanges that go onto the floor. Fit<br />

carpet pieces nine and twelve over the seat box sections on top of the flanges<br />

that are formed over the seat box section down the small vertical faces and<br />

under the flanges formed on the floor section. You can now fully glue the<br />

flanges from the door sills and the tunnel on to the floor.<br />

Fit carpet piece eight over the petrol tank moulding and trim to suit. Note here<br />

that the handbrake cover T0126 will neaten up the carpet round that area and<br />

that on the hard trim option the parcel shelf front edge will neaten up the top<br />

edge of this carpet.<br />

Fit carpet piece eleven to the front toe plate.<br />

Now finally glue in carpet pieces thirteen, fourteen, fifteen and sixteen in<br />

place.<br />


The dashboard cover mounts to the top of the dashboard using black flanged<br />

self-tapping screws No 8 20mm long. Drill out the holes in the dashboard<br />

cover T0118 with an Ø5mm drill. Place the dashboard cover on top of the<br />

dashboard and drill through the previously drilled holes with an Ø3.5mm drill.<br />

The dashboard cover can now be attached to the dashboard using No 8 self<br />

tapping screws. Check all the clearances and fits are to your satisfaction and<br />

then the panel is ready to be removed and trimmed.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 2.3


The dashboard top and demister vent assembly is the same for the Rover<br />

Metro standard instrument pack and the optional individual instrument pack.<br />

The dashboard top should be the last component fitted to the interior of the<br />

car. This assumes the instruments, fresh air vents and the plenum chamber<br />

are all in place. Prepare the dashboard top mould by cutting 3 holes, Ø3"<br />

into the recess provided and push through the fresh air vents T0696. The<br />

fresh air tubes and the plastic ‘Y’ piece should be assembled and fitted to the<br />

heater as shown in the drawing. The fresh air pipes need to be fed into<br />

roughly the right position to locate to the base of the air vents when the<br />

dashboard top is fitted. Once the pipes are in position, the dashboard top with<br />

air vents should be placed over the top of the instruments and located into<br />

position. By lifting the front edge of the dashboard top you should be able to<br />

reach through and locate the tubes into the base of the air vents. The<br />

dashboard top can then be pushed into place and screwed securely through<br />

the locators marked in the mould.<br />


The hard trim panel option kit provides the <strong>build</strong>er with the opportunity of hard<br />

trimming all those panels that in the standard kit are soft trimmed by the direct<br />

application of trim material to the inner surface of the monocoque. The hard<br />

trim panels are made so that they can be trimmed away from the car and then<br />

screwed to the inner face of the monocoque. All the trim panels are secured<br />

in position by No 8 self tapping screws and these are provided within the hard<br />

trim pack option in the fastener pack T1701. The hard trim panels must be<br />

fitted to the car and adjusted to get the correct gaps prior to any trim material<br />

glued to them. Time spent in getting the clearances and fits right will be well<br />

rewarded once the trim material is glued to the trim panels.<br />

Start by fitting the drivers and passengers side screen pillars to the<br />

monocoque. The edge that goes round the front screen goes round the<br />

monocoque and up to the glass when fitted. The top corners of the screen<br />

where the trim panel comes around to meet the roof panel will have to be<br />

carefully trimmed back to get a flush fit with the roof panel. Do not remove too<br />

much of the rebate where the screen glues in. Drill the screen pillar panel<br />

screw holes with an Ø5mm clearance drill. Holding the panels in the position<br />

required, drill through the Ø5mm hole with an Ø3.5mm drill into the<br />

monocoque. A selection of screws are included within the fastener pack to<br />

enable you to select the correct length of screw required for the particular<br />

application. Now screw the panel through the composite roll cage to hold in<br />

the desired position. Note that it is not designed so that you tighten up the<br />

screws fully to pull the panel home against the roll cage but that you tighten<br />

the screws to a point where the inner panel is held securely and in the right<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 2.3

place. The desired position will be easily seen once you tighten up the panel.<br />

It is a good idea at this stage to fit the dash top into position and make any<br />

adjustments you require to the clearances between the screen pillars and the<br />

dash top to equalise the gap. Remember that trim material is going to fit<br />

around the dash top and onto the screen pillars and therefore a clearance is<br />

essential. A clearance in the order of Ø3mm is ideal.<br />

With the screen pillars left in place, fit the roof section. The roof section fits in<br />

a similar manner to the screen pillars and is attached through the self tapping<br />

screws into the monocoque. Do not over tighten the turn knobs as they are<br />

not meant to pull the roof section tight against the monocoque.<br />

Leaving the roof panel in place, hold up the rear window surround. The rear<br />

window surround is designed so that the panel fits up flush against the rear<br />

window when fitted. It will be necessary to trim the rebate which holds the<br />

rear window to allow the roof panel to fit through the aperture. Do not over<br />

trim the aperture as a certain amount of rebate is required to glue the rear<br />

screen in place.<br />

Holding the rear panel in place, mark the position of the bottom securing<br />

screws through the panel onto the rear face of the monocoque. Cut a piece of<br />

half inch ply or similar wood and secure this to the rear panel with body filler.<br />

This ply is to enable you to screw through and secure the rear window<br />

surround to the monocoque. It also provides a spacer so that sound proofing<br />

material can be glued to the monocoque prior to fitting the rear window<br />

surround.<br />

With the rear window surround in place, fit the B post side panels to the car.<br />

The side panels have to be packed out from the monocoque at the rear<br />

quarters so that they meet up with the rear window surround panel. Pack out<br />

with any suitable wood until you get a nice clearance between the rear<br />

window surround and the side panel. The wood can be attached to the<br />

monocoque with body filler and of course not seen once the trim panels are in<br />

place. Body filler a suitable piece of wood into the top of the B posts to accept<br />

the fixing screws at the top of the trim panel. Note these fixing plates do not<br />

have to be flush with the panel, purely sufficient thickness to allow the<br />

attaching screws to have sufficient threads in them to hold the side panel.<br />

Where the seat belt mounting has to go through the side panels drill a small<br />

Ø10mm hole to enable you to see the exact position of the seat belt mounting<br />

through the hole. Open out this hole to the correct position to approximately<br />

Ø25mm. Go carefully here as it is easy to get the hole in the wrong place.<br />

Take the drivers side B post panel off and fit the petrol neck cover over the<br />

petrol neck. Replace the driver’s side B post panel and adjust the petrol neck<br />

cover to get the appropriate gaps. Secure the petrol neck cover panel to the<br />

monocoque drilling through the top panel of the rear box section.<br />

Once you are satisfied with all the clips remove the hard trim panel and these<br />

are now ready to be trimmed with your chosen material.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 2.4


The <strong>Libra</strong> utilises the two front seats and runners from a K Series Rover<br />

Metro. A beam runs across the car at an appropriate point between the sill<br />

and the tunnel on both sides, on which the front edge of the seat runners<br />

mount. The rear edge of the seat runner mounts directly through the<br />

strengthened floor of the rear. Most after market seats will fit as there is<br />

considerable room in the <strong>Libra</strong>. <strong>GTM</strong> also supplies alternative accessory<br />

seats.<br />

Seats and Runners assembly.<br />

Whichever seat you choose to use, the runners at the front need to be<br />

secured into the box section that runs across the car from the outside sill to<br />

the tunnel and the rear secured to the floor behind this section. When<br />

securing the front of the runners to the box section, drill through the top of the<br />

box section and straight through the bottom. Open out the bottom hole with a<br />

Ø25mm hole saw. Bolt up the runner to the top of the box section and not<br />

both surfaces. The floor of the <strong>Libra</strong> is strengthened to take the weight of the<br />

seat runners but it is a good idea to spread the load as far as possible.<br />

When fitting, special <strong>GTM</strong> seat mounts are available from the factory to<br />

enable you to put the seat at any angle and height you should desire. These<br />

special mounts run across the floor so as to strengthen the mounting.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 2.5


The <strong>Libra</strong> utilises the front seat belts from a K Series Rover Metro. The belts<br />

mount to special reinforced areas within the monocoque.<br />

Seat belts assembly<br />

The front seat belts of the K Series Rover Metro are handed. It is therefore<br />

important that you use the driver’s side out of the Metro on the driver’s side of<br />

the <strong>Libra</strong>.<br />

It is easy to tell which side is which by starting the assembly from the outside<br />

bottom mounting.<br />

The mounting is made on the K Series Rover with a loop of the seat belt that<br />

slides along a bar, which is attached to the car.<br />

This bar is retained on the <strong>Libra</strong> and fits as shown in drawing No 28.<br />

Start by drilling the Ø13mm clearance hole in which the joggle part of the bar<br />

will fit. Due to the angles involved it is easiest to put a small pilot drill through<br />

the position first and then follow through with a Ø3mm drill. A certain amount<br />

of filing will be necessary to enable the bar to fit through the sill. Fit the bar<br />

through the sill and using the bar as a template, drill the front hole Ø25mm<br />

clearance, 50mm from the floor of the car.<br />

Hole saw approximately an Ø60mm hole in the sill to enable you to fit the seat<br />

belt mounting plate T0630 behind the sill to locate the seat belt rod. Repeat<br />

the procedure for the other side of the car.<br />

Now fit the inertia reels to the bottom corners of the rear box in the position<br />

shown on the diagram. Before fitting the inertia reels it is necessary to drill out<br />

the threads from the inertia reel fixings to a clearance hole to enable the<br />

inertia reel to be fitted from the inside of the car. Be extremely careful when<br />

drilling out the threads of the inertia reel mountings as it is very easy for the<br />

drill to snatch. Mount the inertia reel with a seat belt mounting plate T0630<br />

behind the back box. Access is obtained through the hole already cut in the<br />

back box. Repeat the operation for the other side.<br />

On the standard Rover Metro the center lower positions of the seat belt<br />

mountings are joined onto one bracket. On the <strong>Libra</strong> this bracket is not used<br />

and it is necessary to remove the separate part of the mounting from the<br />

bracket by angle grinding or filing the outside face of the rivet.<br />

The brackets are attached in the position shown on the drawing with a special<br />

bush T0631 between the bracket and the tunnel. Drill a clearance hole in the<br />

position shown on the drawing and working with an assistant hold the seat<br />

belt mounting bracket T0630 on the inside of the tunnel tightening the bolt<br />

from the inside of the car.<br />

The top seat belt mounting is mounted as in the K Series Rover Metro to the<br />

bush already located in the monocoque in the side quarter panel. Use the<br />

special bush T0632 to space the standard mounting away from the<br />

monocoque so that it protrudes through the trim panel. You need a special<br />

bolt 50mm long and 7/16 UNF in this position and not the standard top<br />

mounting bolt.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 2.6


In standard form the <strong>Libra</strong> utilises the standard K Series Rover Metro<br />

instrument pack and switchgear for the heater and rear fog light switch. When<br />

using the separate instrument option it is necessary to use special cables to<br />

operate the heater unit and switches for the heater fan and rear fog light. The<br />

separate instruments themselves have been specially designed for the <strong>Libra</strong><br />

and fit to a binnacle designed for the purpose. The standard Rover Metro K<br />

Series dashboard wiring loom is replaced in its entirety with a special loom<br />

manufactured by <strong>GTM</strong> for the instrument option.<br />

All of the components necessary to fit the instrument option are provided in<br />

the pack by <strong>GTM</strong> Cars Ltd. Listed below are all the components provided<br />

within the instrument option kit.<br />

T1710 Moulding separate instrument binnacle.<br />

T1711 Moulding separate instrument – top.<br />

T1712 Separate instruments and warning lights.<br />

T1713 Switch – rear fog.<br />

T1714 Switch – cooling fan.<br />

T1715 Bezel plates - instruments.<br />

T1717 Bezel plates – switches.<br />

T1718 Bezel plates – heater control<br />

T1721 Heater control sliders.<br />

T1722 Wiring loom – separate instruments.<br />

T1723 Electronic Speedo sender.<br />

T1724 Fastener pack – separate instruments.<br />

Consult drawing No 22. Start the assembly by fitting the separate instruments<br />

and warning lights T1712 into the instrument binnacle moulding T1710. The<br />

separate instrument binnacle has marks on it to indicate the position of the<br />

instruments. Cut out these holes using any suitable method. Hold the bezel<br />

plate instruments T1715 up against the instrument binnacle and using the<br />

bezel as a template mark and cut out any mismatches in the holes.<br />

Put the two end instruments in as locators and mark up the positions on the<br />

instrument binnacle for the four warning lights. Measure the diameter<br />

required for the warning lights from the lights provided and drill out the<br />

warning light holes in the instrument binnacle. It may be necessary to open<br />

out the warning light holes in the bezel plate for the instruments depending on<br />

which warning lights have been provided within the kit.<br />

All the instruments and warning lights can now be mounted through the bezel<br />

plate and through the binnacle and secured using the clamps provided.<br />

Fix the switch bezel plate T1717 to the dashboard using four No 8 Posi drive<br />

self tapping screws drilling the dashboard first with a Ø3.5mm drill. Mark the<br />

two right hand squares with a scriber onto the dashboard for the holes to take<br />

the heater fan and rear fog light switches.<br />

Remove the bezel plate and cut out the squares. By cutting out slightly larger<br />

than the scribe square you will find that the switches latch better to the bezel<br />

plate. Remount the bezel plate to the dashboard with the four screws.<br />

The fog light switch T1713 can now be pushed in to the far right hole and the<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 2.7

cooling fan switch T1714 placed in the other hole.<br />

Cut a hole in the driver’s door pillar as shown in the drawing at the end of this<br />

<strong>manual</strong> to accept bezel plate T1715. Keep this hole to a minimum so as not<br />

to reduce the strength of the box section. Drill these holes using a Ø3.5mm<br />

drill and attach the plate using 6 black No 8 posi drive screws 12mm long.<br />

Following the drawing cut the hole on the top of the dashboard to allow the<br />

cables to run through from the box section into the dashboard.<br />

Remove the heater control bezel plate from the box section and fit the heater<br />

control sliders T1721 to the bezel plate using 2 black No 8 posi drive 12mm<br />

long self tapping screws. It is difficult to machine bend the 45 degree bend at<br />

the bottom of the bezel plate and therefore it may be necessary to sharpen<br />

this bend in a vice so that you get a good fit with the sliders. Once the sliders<br />

are fitted remove any of the bottom tails that protrude over the edge of the<br />

bezel plate in order to neaten the assembly.<br />

The bezel plate can now be fitted to the box section with the cable coming up<br />

through the hole previously trimmed at the bottom of the dashboard.<br />

Consult drawing No 23 and drill an Ø20mm hole in the front corner of the<br />

heater box in the dashboard to allow the cables to run back through under the<br />

dashboard and connect to the heater mixer.<br />

By fitting the heater unit under the dashboard it will be clear where exactly to<br />

drill this hole to allow the cable to run through without bending it excessively.<br />

The rearward flap on the heater unit made from steel can be connected up to<br />

the cable without any modification.<br />

The front plastic flap assembly requires an Ø3mm hole to be drilled in it as on<br />

the drawing close to the rib and slot. By drilling this hole it is possible to fit the<br />

standard cable end through the hole to operate the mechanism.<br />

Both the control cables can be conveniently attached to the heater mixer unit<br />

using tie wraps. Position the cables so that they work the flaps correctly and<br />

then tie wrap the cables to the standard mounts.<br />

Fit everything up permanently and looping the cables over the instrument<br />

pack check that everything works freely and closes and shuts the appropriate<br />

flaps.<br />

Mount electronic Speedo sender T1734 to the normal output from the gearbox<br />

at the rear of your car. On early models of the 1400cc it may be necessary to<br />

leave on the short Speedo cable and then attach the electronic Speedo<br />

sender to the end of that cable. Take the electric wire that replaces the<br />

Speedo cable and attach to the gearbox end and run over the petrol tank<br />

under the car and through into the dashboard area as the standard Speedo<br />

cable would run. Tie wrap the Speedo cable T0702 to any appropriate cable<br />

or pipe under the tunnel making sure that the gear change is not going to foul<br />

it. Finally fit in the <strong>GTM</strong> separate instrument wiring loom T1722 referring to<br />

the drawing at the end of the <strong>manual</strong>. This wiring loom totally replaces the<br />

standard Rover Metro K Series dashboard wiring loom. The Rover K Series<br />

wiring loom should be removed completely and discarded. Start by plugging<br />

the wiring loom into the fusebox on the body K Series wiring loom. Attach the<br />

<strong>GTM</strong> electronic Speedo wiring loom to the separate instrument wiring loom.<br />

The wiring loom now runs under the instruments to the switches and then<br />

across the top of the instruments to the warning lights and gauges. By<br />

following the diagram it should be relatively easy to plug in all the electrical<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 2.8

connectors.<br />

By wiring the fan switch as shown on the left-hand side of the drawing it will<br />

run the fan at medium speed when switched on. The other two colours can<br />

be used if you desire high speed or low speed. Provided within the wiring<br />

loom are two extra illumination wires in case you should fit any extra switches.<br />

The new temperature gauge and the oil pressure gauge provided within the<br />

separate instrument pack require different senders to be fitted at the engine<br />

end. These senders are provided within the separate instrument and warning<br />

light pack T1712. The temperature sender purely replaces the standard<br />

temperature sender on the K Series engine and it is necessary to replace the<br />

standard electrical connector with a female spade connector, which slips over<br />

the top of the end of the temperature sender provided.<br />

The oil pressure sender replaces the standard oil pressure light switch, which<br />

is positioned adjacent to the oil filter. Remove the standard sender switch and<br />

replace it with the sender provided within the instrument pack. Here again it<br />

will be necessary to remove the standard electrical connector and replace it<br />

with a spade connector. The spade connector should be attached to the M<br />

terminal of the sender unit.<br />


The soft trim material provided within the standard kit is relatively forgiving<br />

and can be glued directly to the inner surface of the monocoque once it has<br />

been sanded and ‘cleaned up’. When soft trimming the upper part of the<br />

monocoque it is essential that the trim is fitted prior to bonding in the front and<br />

rear screens. The trim material is wrapped round the aperture and glued to<br />

the bonding face of the screens. In a similar way to the screen apertures the<br />

soft trim material is trimmed around the door apertures and then glued on the<br />

face where the seal fits. Start by covering the area in the top of the car and<br />

running approximately 50mm down the screen pillars and down to level with<br />

the top of the rear window. This can be all covered with one piece of material<br />

glued to the internal surface of the glass fibre. Now trim down the screen<br />

pillars by folding the top join where it goes over the already fitted trim on the<br />

top part of the car and down to below the dashboard top area. This can be<br />

trimmed in a similar manner to the roof, gluing the trim material to the inside<br />

surface of the glass fibre and then around the screen aperture and the door<br />

shut face.<br />

The quarter panels at the back of the car can be trimmed in a similar manner<br />

to the front screen pillars going up to the back bulkhead of the car and round<br />

by approximately 25mm.<br />

Cut a section of the soundproofing the size of the rear bulkhead and around<br />

the rear screen so that it covers the areas not covered by the soft trims<br />

material that you have glued to the monocoque. Now trim this soundproofing<br />

material with the soft trim material taking it round the edges. Where the rear<br />

window fits over the rear window aperture, glue it to the rebate.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 2.9


Door trim panels assembly<br />

Place the completed door assembly onto a flat surface suitably covered so<br />

that you do not scratch the outside faces. Take door handle inner T0123/4<br />

and drill out the hole marked for the wiper handle to come through. Drill a<br />

Ø35mm hole. Rest the door handle on top of the door inner frame and on top<br />

of that, rest the door inners T0116/7.<br />

Position the door handle onto the inner frame using the door inner as a guide<br />

to get the correct position for the door handle. It may be necessary to file the<br />

door winder hole to obtain the correct position for the door inner handle. Once<br />

the correct position has been found with an equal gap between the door inner<br />

and the door handle attach the door handle to the door inner frame using six<br />

No 8 posi drive 10mm long self tapping screws. The inner door handle covers<br />

up one of the adjusting nuts for the small adjusting channel for the wider<br />

mechanism. Drill out the inner door handle approximately Ø25mm to allow<br />

access to this nut.<br />

Attach one end of door pull wire T0516 to the door latch using door pull<br />

connector T0524. This can be attached by looping the wire through the door<br />

latch and then joining it together with the door pull connector. Place the door<br />

pull wire over the top of the door handle in the position shown on the drawing<br />

and mark the positions of the holes required to allow the door pull wire to pass<br />

through the door handle and act as the operating wire for the latch. Drill<br />

suitable clearance holes in the door handle and pass the wire through the<br />

door handle and attach at the other side with door pull connector T0524.<br />

Using a suitable tool i.e. a screwdriver, operate the latch at the end of the door<br />

and open the door with the door pull to obtain the correct tension on the door<br />

pull wire. The door inner panel T0116/7 can now be attached to the door<br />

outer shell. Drill out the holes in the inner panel with a Ø5mm drill. Place the<br />

panel over the door in the correct position and drill through the inner panel to<br />

the door and the door handle inner with a Ø3.5mm drill. Attach the door inner<br />

panel to the door and the door handle using No 8 self-tapping screws.<br />

Where the self-tapping screws go through the door Spiro clips have been<br />

provided to provide extra security for the inner panel.<br />


The trim within the <strong>Libra</strong> can be undertaken in three ways.<br />

Firstly - You can use the standard Rover Metro K Series instrument binnacle<br />

complete with its switches and heater control gear or secondly you can<br />

choose to use separate instruments designed especially by <strong>GTM</strong> for the <strong>Libra</strong><br />

with special switches and heater control levers.<br />

The standard kit comes complete with hard trim panels for the doors and the<br />

handbrake cover panel in the rear of the car.<br />

A set of carpets are provided within the standard kit to totally cover the lower<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 2.11

half of the car. In the standard kit headlining type material is provided to<br />

enable the <strong>build</strong>er to cover the remaining panels by directly applying the<br />

headlining material to the interior of the glass fibre monocoque.<br />

Finally - An additional kit is available from <strong>GTM</strong> to completely hard trim this<br />

area of the car with separate panels that can be trimmed prior to fitting to the<br />

car.<br />

Sufficient soundproofing material is provided within the kit to cover those<br />

areas where it is necessary.<br />


All the hard panels that require trimming on the <strong>Libra</strong> whether they be part of<br />

the standard kit or the optional hard trim panels are covered in the same<br />

manner.<br />

Use a fine grit (80 production paper) round all the edges of the panels to<br />

remove any sharp edges and to give a slight radius at the edges for the trim<br />

material to fold round. All the panels need to be washed thoroughly with hot<br />

water and washing up liquid to remove the wax and release agent which may<br />

still be on the panels after the moulding process. Failure to do this will mean<br />

that the glue will not adhere properly and the trim material will eventually<br />

come loose from the panels. Now sand all the top surfaces of the trim panels<br />

lightly with production paper to form a good key for the glue. The panels<br />

should now either be washed and allowed to dry completely or vacuumed<br />

clean.<br />

Trimming panels with leather cloth type materials does take some skill and it<br />

is best to start with a small panel first to familiarise yourself with the technique.<br />

Take a small moulding and cut a piece of your trim material larger than the<br />

moulding so that it can be folded over the edges but not so large that it is<br />

difficult to fit onto the panel. Using a contact adhesive cover both the panel<br />

and the material completely. When the glue is touch dry place the trim<br />

material onto the centre of the panel and working outwards smooth the<br />

material onto the panel and press down to glue firmly to the panel.<br />

Where there are difficult shapes on the panel the addition of heat to the<br />

material can help greatly. The use of a hairdryer can be very useful in<br />

generating a little extra heat in difficult conditions.<br />

Once the outside surface of the panel is covered and glued to your<br />

satisfaction, turn the panel over and cut the trim material to within<br />

approximately 20mm from the edge of the moulding. This material will be<br />

glued to the underside of the moulding to make the finished panel. At the<br />

corners and as you work round each panel it will be necessary to cut ‘V’s into<br />

this 20mm band to enable the material to be folded round without undo<br />

wrinkling. Practice will tell you the amount of these required and the distance<br />

they must be from the edge of the moulding but start by approximately 4mm<br />

from the edge of the moulding. Now glue the edge of the trim material and a<br />

band at least 20mm wide on the reverse face of the moulding. Dry fold the<br />

20mm band over and glue to the underside of the moulding.<br />

It is unlikely that your first attempt will be satisfactory and therefore remove<br />

the covering material from the moulding and try again.<br />

If after many attempts the results you are getting are not satisfactory then a<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 2.11

visit to your local trimmer is necessary.<br />

Should you be unable to find a trimmer to do the job for you then do contact<br />

<strong>GTM</strong> Cars Ltd and we would only be to pleased to pass you on to a suitable<br />

trimmer.<br />

The trim panels can then be re-fitted to your car.<br />


DOORS……………………………………………………………3.2<br />

Assembly………………………………………………..3.2<br />

ROOF PANEL……………………………………………………3.8<br />

Assembly……………………………………………3.8<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 2.12

DOORS<br />

The <strong>Libra</strong> uses two glass fibre doors with steel inner frames to support the<br />

glass and winding mechanism. These frames bolt directly to the doors via four<br />

Allen bolts, which can be seen from inside the car. The doors are hinged on<br />

their front edge using two top hat nylon bushes. These bushes fit directly into<br />

the glass fibre moulding. The bottom pivot sits directly on the body sill and is<br />

adjustable in all directions without removing the door. The top pivot bolts<br />

directly to the door upright and is adjustable in a similar manner to the bottom<br />

pivot. In this way the door can be fitted and then adjusted without removing<br />

any interior trim to obtain the best fit. The <strong>Libra</strong> utilises the standard Rover<br />

Metro latch on the rear face of the door. This latch is operated by a purpose<br />

designed outside door button and internal door pull. The door is prevented<br />

from opening too wide by purpose designed door straps fitted between the<br />

door and the monocoque. The door winding mechanism is the standard K<br />

Series Rover Metro fitted without modification and using its own glass<br />

channel. The door glass is a special glass provided in the kit.<br />

Doors Assembly<br />

Assemble the Rover Metro winding regulator channel to the bottom of the<br />

window glass T1001/2. The channel should be fitted to the bottom of the<br />

glass as indicated on the assembly drawing No 16.<br />

Remove the rubber insulator from the centre of the Metro window channel.<br />

Glue the rubber insulator onto the bottom of the <strong>Libra</strong> window glass in the<br />

position shown on the assembly drawing. Any contact adhesive is suitable for<br />

this task. Place the <strong>Libra</strong> window glass onto a clean tabletop with the bottom<br />

edge slightly protruding over the edge of the table. Starting from one end<br />

gently force the window regulator channel over the rubber and work along<br />

until the complete channel is fitted snugly up to the rubber glued to the bottom<br />

of the glass. It is important that the channel fits tightly up to the rubber on the<br />

bottom edge for the correct operation of the regulator.<br />

Inner Door Frame<br />

Take the door inner frame T0500/1 and cut suitable length of window channel<br />

rubber T0518 to fit into the vertical channels on each side of the frame that the<br />

window glass runs up and down. Glue the rubber channel into the vertical<br />

channels in the door inner frames using a suitable contact adhesive.<br />

Fit the door window glass complete with its bottom channel into the door inner<br />

frame and <strong>manual</strong>ly move the glass up and down the channel making sure<br />

that the glass moves freely, a small amount of petroleum jelly can help the<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 3.1

smooth operation of the glass within the rubber channel.<br />

Remove the window glass from the door inner frame and place aside. Mount<br />

the K Series Metro window regulator to the door inner frame in the position as<br />

shown on the assembly drawing using two Ø6 x 15mm long socket cap<br />

screws and washers.<br />

Mount the short (120mm long) channel to the inner doorframe in the position<br />

shown on the assembly drawing using the standard Rover Metro 5mm nuts.<br />

Fit the door regulator top stop T0521 to the door regulator using a Ø6 x 18mm<br />

long socket cap head screw washer and Nyloc nut.<br />

Fit a winding handle to the regulator and check that the regulator winds up<br />

and down satisfactory without jamming.<br />

Wind the regulator to a position so that the operating legs are just below the<br />

bottom arm of the inner door frame and remove the regulator by unscrewing<br />

its Ø6mm retaining bolt.<br />

Slide the door glass into the inner door frame to a position where the channel<br />

approximates to the position of the operating arms prior to removing the<br />

regulator. Now slide the operating arms of the regulator on to the bottom<br />

channel attached to the glass from the rear end of the door at the same time<br />

ensuring that the small wheel of the regulator arm fits into the small channel<br />

already attached to the door inner frame. Position the regulator so that the<br />

two Ø6mm bolts can be replaced and mount the regulator.<br />

The window glass should now wind up and down the door in the frame without<br />

jamming.<br />

Do not at this stage attempt to adjust the position of the small 120mm channel<br />

or the position of the eccentric top stop. This will be adjusted once the frame<br />

is assembled into the door.<br />

Locks and Hinges Assembly<br />

Put aside the two inner frame regulators and glass and assemble the locks<br />

and hinges into the glass fibre door shells.<br />

Using the full scale template included in the assembly <strong>manual</strong> mark the inside<br />

recessed shut face of the door where the Rover Metro latch will fit. Using the<br />

other template follow on from the previously marked hole for the striker onto<br />

the inside face of the door using the template provided in the assembly<br />

<strong>manual</strong>. Spot and drill the three Ø6mm clearance holes in the door face.<br />

Using a jigsaw or by chain drilling, cut out the aperture for the striker. Using<br />

the Rover Metro door latch as a guide clean up the hole to allow the latch to fit<br />

snugly. Do this work carefully, as it will be seen on the completed car.<br />

Radius the edges to obtain a neat appearance. The door latch can now be<br />

mounted to the door shell using three Ø6mm button socket screws 20mm<br />

long with washers.<br />

Cut a Ø25mm hole in the centre of the recess for the external door key. This<br />

hole can either be cut with a hole saw or by chain drilling and filing. File the<br />

two anti rotation notches in this hole.<br />

Due to the increased thickness of the glass fibre body compared to a steel<br />

body shell the notches in the K Series Rover Metro door lock have to be wider<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 3.2

to enable the retaining clip to work satisfactorily. Mount the door lock in a vice<br />

and carefully saw the door lock barrel to increase the width of the notches to<br />

approximately 4/5 mm. The door lock can now be assembled to the door shell<br />

using the standard Rover Metro spring retainer.<br />

Using the indentations of the outer side door shell, pilot the two Ø5mm<br />

clearance holes required for the door handle and open out to Ø5mm<br />

clearance. Using the door handle T0514 as a template, mark and drill a hole<br />

approximately Ø28 mm to enable the door button to come through the outer<br />

shell. The door handle T0514 and the door handle mechanism T0511/2 can<br />

now be mounted to the door shell using two Ø5mm Nyloc nuts and washers.<br />

Make sure that the door handle mechanism fits flush against the internal glass<br />

fibre face of the door and if necessary clean the face up using production<br />

paper.<br />

Assemble the door button T0515 through the door button carrier T0513 using<br />

a Ø6mm socket cap head screw 10mm long and a washer. The carrier can<br />

now be mounted to the door handle mechanism and mounted to the door<br />

using a Ø2mm split pin 35mm long. Do not turn the ends of the split pin at this<br />

stage, as it will have to be removed in the assembly of the door rods. Check<br />

at this stage that the door button swings in and out of the door freely without<br />

binding.<br />

Hold the door striker T0520 and move it in and out of the latch assembled to<br />

the door and familiarise yourself with the working of the latch.<br />

Take a 260mm long piece of the door rod wire T0523 and form a joggle at one<br />

end to fit in the pawl that operates the door lock mechanism in the door latch.<br />

Remove the three securing bolts from the door latch and remove it from the<br />

door. Fit this joggle into the door lock pawl with the wire coming up through<br />

the pawl away from the outer shell of the door. Refit the latch to the door.<br />

Place the rod over the top of the outside key mechanism and mark the<br />

position of the hole in the plastic lever arm of the door key mechanism. Again<br />

remove the door latch mechanism from the door, remove the door rod and<br />

form a right angle at the end as previously marked approximately 15mm long.<br />

Reassemble and make sure everything works satisfactorily using a key from<br />

the outside of the door and <strong>manual</strong>ly inserting the door striker.<br />

Take a 280mm long piece of the door rod wire T0523 and form a joggle in the<br />

end to fit into the pawl that operates the door latch. Remove the door latch<br />

and fit this joggle into the pawl in a similar manner to the lock rod with the wire<br />

coming up away from the outside face of the door. Reassemble the latch into<br />

the door and very carefully mark the position of the required joggle that the<br />

door button holder T0513. Make sure that the door button is in its most<br />

outside point when you mark this position. Remove the wire and form another<br />

joggle at right angles to the previous joggle to fit through the door button<br />

carrier T0513.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 3.3

Remove the door button carrier T0513 from the door handle mechanism<br />

T0511 by removing the 2mm split pin and fit the joggle through the hole<br />

provided. Refit the door button carrier to the door handle mechanism and<br />

check that everything works effectively. It is extremely important that there is<br />

no excessive play in the mechanism and it is worth at this stage taking some<br />

time to ensure the correct operation. When completely satisfied spray out the<br />

ends of the split pin. The door latch and the door lock should now work<br />

satisfactorily. Provision has been made for a strip spring to be used between<br />

the door button carrier and the door lock mechanism that in practise has been<br />

found to be unnecessary.<br />

Fitting the Frame<br />

Fit the door frame complete with glass to the door. Mark the centre of the four<br />

recessed inner frame mounting points and pilot drill. Open out with a Ø6mm<br />

clearance drill. It is necessary to extend the outer glass line on the door shells<br />

to enable the glass to wind up and down. A split line on the mould indicates<br />

the line of the outer glass. This shows up as a raised line on the shell of the<br />

door. Extend the rear line to within 3mm of the end of the door and form a slot<br />

for the glass to wind up through, 10mm wide. Do this work very carefully as it<br />

shows on the exterior of the car. Where the glass runs up into the small<br />

triangular panel at the front of door on which the wing mirror mounts, it is<br />

necessary to trim the moulding in a similar manner to the rear edge of the<br />

door. Use the mould line as a guide and open up the slot to 10mm, as at the<br />

rear. The glass must run as far up into the triangular panel as possible to<br />

minimise the difficult condition with the door seals when shut on the car. As<br />

with the rear, do this work carefully as it will be seen when the car is complete.<br />

Prior to fitting the door glass weather seal T0517, it is advisable to fit the door<br />

inner frame complete with glass to the door using the 6mm stainless steel<br />

counter sunk screws and washers. Check that the window winds up and<br />

down freely and that the glass has a clearance between the outer door and<br />

the outer face of the glass particularly where the weather seal will fit.<br />

Adjustment can be made to the fitting of the glass by inserting washers<br />

between the doorframe and the door outer skin. Once this seems<br />

satisfactory, remove the frame.<br />

Trim the door glass weather seal T0517 so that it is the correct length from the<br />

back face of the door to the small triangular wing mirror panel. Clean the<br />

inner face of the door shell and lightly sand the inner face on which the door<br />

weather seal is to be glued. Glue the door glass weather seal T0517 to the<br />

door shell T0104/5 using “super glue”.<br />

Door Mirror Assembly<br />

The two mounting storks approximately Ø10.5mm have to be shortened on the<br />

standard Rover K Series mirror to a length of approximately 13mm from the<br />

outside inner face of the mounting flange. These can be easily cut with a<br />

junior hacksaw. Open out the inner hole in these mounting tubes from 5.2mm<br />

to a depth of 15mm. Tap these holes, Ø6mm metric fine using a standard<br />

metal tap. Check the thread by screwing in a standard Ø6mm bolt.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 3.4

The arm that normally projects into the car so the door mirror can be adjusted<br />

from inside the Metro has to be removed using a hack saw at a point<br />

approximately 10mm from the spring retaining washer. The wing mirrors can<br />

not be adjusted from inside the <strong>Libra</strong>.<br />

Refer to drawing No 17. Where the wing mirror mounts to the door outer<br />

panel mark the centre of the boss and pilot with a small drill. With a Ø30mm<br />

hole saw, drill out the central part of the mirror boss. Two Ø10.5mm holes<br />

now have to be drilled on approximately Ø41mm centres to enable the<br />

mounting tubes to come through the outer skin of the door moulding. When<br />

drilled these holes just break into the surface of the Ø30mm hole previously<br />

hole sawed. The wing mirror can now be positioned on the door with the two<br />

mounting bosses projecting through the door and being accessible from the<br />

inside of the panel. It may be necessary to slightly adjust the Ø10.5mm<br />

clearance holes depending on the exact size of your particular moulding.<br />

Place one of the door mirror mounting sleeves T0522 over one of the<br />

mounting boss tubes projecting into the car and with a 15mm long set bolt and<br />

large 6mm washer, secure the wing mirror. The other door mirror mounting<br />

sleeve can now be fitted over the other tube and secured in a similar manner.<br />

Tighten both bolts equally to secure the mirror to the door shell.<br />

The door inner frame complete with its glass can now be reassembled to the<br />

door shell using the four stainless steel 6mm screws and special washers.<br />

Attaching the Door to the Monocoque<br />

Refer to drawing No 16. Pilot drill the centre of the indent on the front of the<br />

doors where the door hinge bushes T0510 fit. Open out these holes to<br />

Ø13mm. Press fit the two door hinges bushes T0510 into the door outer shell<br />

and tap home with a suitable soft mallet.<br />

Using door hinge bottom T0512/3 as a guide, locate the two indents on top of<br />

the sill which correspond to the two larger holes in the door hinge bottom<br />

plate. Spot these two centres with a pilot drill. Open out these two holes to<br />

Ø6mm clearance. Bolt the door hinge bottom T502/3 to the doorsill through<br />

the doorsill to door hinge bottom spreader T0504 using two Ø6 x 25mm long<br />

socket screws and large 20mm washers. The door hinge bottom should now<br />

be adjustable in all directions around the 6mm bolts by loosening the screws.<br />

Using door hinge top pivot plate T0508 as a guide, find the corresponding<br />

three indents in the vertical part of the door aperture in the monocoque and<br />

spot the holes. Open out these holes to Ø6mm clearance. Bolt T0508 to the<br />

vertical face using three countersunk socket screws 25mm long washers and<br />

Nyloc nuts. Mount the door hinge top pivot T0506 to the top of the door hinge<br />

plate T0508 with door hinge top spreader T0509 on top using two Ø6 x 12mm<br />

long socket cap head screws and washers. By slackening the screws, the top<br />

pivot should now move around freely about the Ø6mm screws. Remove the<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 3.5

door top pivot. Place the door onto the bottom pivot and into the aperture.<br />

Screw on the door top pivot as before. Adjust the top and bottom pivots to<br />

obtain a suitable fit on the door. The height of the door at the door hinge end<br />

can be adjusted by placing standard 10mm washers on top of the bottom door<br />

pivot.<br />

With the door glass wound down into the door adjust the two hinges so that<br />

the outside shape of the door follows through onto the sill line and rear face of<br />

the door. Use the small air scoop which follows through from the bodywork<br />

onto the door to give you a guide as to the height of the door at the rear and<br />

of course the top line of the door. Spend time making sure that you have the<br />

correct position of the door before continuing with the door assembly.<br />

Open and close the door into the door aperture and mark on the door shut<br />

face the height of the door striker by referring to the position in the door. As a<br />

guide the door striker should be approximately 70mm horizontally from the<br />

outside face of the door shut. When you are satisfied you have the correct<br />

position, pilot and drill the door striker hole to Ø12mm clearance. Mount the<br />

door striker T0520 to the monocoque T0100 using 12mm x 1.25 pitch Nyloc<br />

nuts and washers.<br />

Open and shut the door many times to make sure that you have the striker in<br />

the right position, that the locks are working correctly and that the door is<br />

lining up with the outside of the car. It will be more than likely that you will<br />

need to file the door striker position and adjust the door striker to get the best<br />

possible fit. Time taken now to get the best possible fit is well worth while.<br />

Wind up the door window to its top position and adjust the window regulator<br />

top stop T0521 by slackening the 6mm bolts and turning them eccentric to<br />

obtain the best fit with the glass in regard to the top of the door aperture. Now<br />

cut some 13.5mm thick pieces of wood and glue them to several positions<br />

around the door window seal. Shut the door and adjust the position of the<br />

door glass by packing out the bottom mount of the doorframe T0500/1 with<br />

6mm washers. The most critical position is where the door glass meets the<br />

top of the door mirror triangle. Take great care to get the best possible fit at<br />

this point.<br />

Remove the wood and replace with standard Rover Metro door seal and<br />

check and readjust the window position. Time spent now is very important to<br />

make sure that the door sealing is waterproof.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 3.6


A removable roof panel is fitted to the <strong>Libra</strong> and when removed is stored<br />

behind the seats of the car. When stored the panel does not restrict the view<br />

out of the rear window. The panel is located and fixed by five turn knobs.<br />

When secured from the inside the panel is not removable from the outside<br />

and hence offers complete security. Drain channels are provided from the<br />

roof panel aperture and these in turn are also used to drain the roof when the<br />

panel is in place to prevent water running off the roof and into the car when<br />

the doors are open. A waterproof seal is also provided by <strong>GTM</strong> for the<br />

aperture of the roof T1408.<br />

Roof Panel assembly<br />

Mark the centre of the circular indents on the roof of the monocoque. Drill first<br />

with a pilot drill and drill out to Ø10mm. Fit the waterproof seal T1408. The<br />

roof panel should now fit in through these holes and is secured by the five turn<br />

knobs T0660.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 3.7

ENGINE<br />

ENGINE COVER MOULDING…………………………………….4.2<br />

Engine cover assembly……………………………..4.2<br />

ENGINE FRAME…………………………………………………….4.3<br />

Engine frame assembly……………………………..4.3<br />

ENGINE AND AUXILIARIES……………………………………….4.4<br />

Engine assembly……………………………………..4.4<br />

Auxiliaries……………………………………………...4.4<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 3.8


The engine cover moulding incorporates the rear boot of the <strong>Libra</strong>. The<br />

moulding complete with the boot, pivots about the bottom rear corners to give<br />

access to the engine for servicing and general maintenance. It is secured<br />

along its front edge to the monocoque with six Spiro clips similar to the front<br />

moulding. When shut, the rear pivots are not used to support the rear<br />

moulding. Adjustable brackets off the engine frame support the moulding<br />

which are located under the floor of the boot moulding. These brackets take<br />

the weight of the boot contents and the weight of the moulding. The moulding<br />

has inner wheel arches attached to it which form part of the air intake ducting<br />

to the engine.<br />

Engine Cover Assembly<br />

Start by fitting the 6 Spiro clip plates T0602 to the monocoque using the No 8<br />

self tapping screws. At this stage do not fit the spacer washers under the<br />

plates. The position of the plates is indicated on the monocoque and the sill<br />

end panels with small indentations. Fit 6 off Spiro clipsT0602 into the Spiro<br />

clip plates.<br />

Take the rear panel and drill 6 pilot holes through the centre of the<br />

indentations in the moulding for the panel fasteners. Now open these up to<br />

Ø6mm holes.<br />

Loosely attach boot support angle bracket T0411 to engine sub frame T0400<br />

using the boot wobble plate T0410, 6 socket cap Ø6mm bolts, 15mm long<br />

washers and Nyloc nuts.<br />

Attach the rear panel to the monocoque using 6 fairing fasteners T0600.<br />

Adjust the rear fairing to obtain an equal panel gap of approximately 4mm.<br />

Working within the wheel arch, adjust the adjustable boot support angle<br />

frames to rest on the bottom of the boot floor. Tighten the six off 6mm socket<br />

screws.<br />

Working within the wheel arch, attach the hinge spacers T0604 to the ends of<br />

the engine sub frame T0400 using four 6mm Nyloc nuts and washers.<br />

Loosely attach hinge plate T0603 to these hinge spaces using four 6mm<br />

Nyloc nuts and washers.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 4.1

Assemble a bonnet hinge bush T0611 onto a pivot rear panel T0605 and<br />

using a 10mm socket cap screw 25mm long attach this assembly to the<br />

loosely assembled hinge plates T0603. Note that the pivot rear panel<br />

brackets TO605 are handed and that the leg which attaches to the bottom of<br />

the rear panel faces inwards towards the car and the hole which the bush<br />

T0611 fits through is angled away from the rear panel of the car.<br />

Adjust hinge plate T0603 to the best position and mark two Ø6mm holes in the<br />

bottom of the rear panel to attach the pivot rear panel bracket T0605.<br />

Remove the 10mm socket screw and drill these previously marked holes with<br />

a Ø6mm clearance drill. Reassemble the pivots and attach using pivot<br />

securing plate T0606 and two Ø6mm Nyloc nuts and washers.<br />

The fairing fasteners can now be undone and the rear panel should now pivot<br />

backwards to give access to the engine compartment satisfactorily. Slight<br />

rear adjustment maybe required to obtain the best possible fit.<br />


The engine gearbox unit on the <strong>Libra</strong> is mounted to a purpose designed<br />

frame, which in turn is bolted directly to the monocoque on the rear panel.<br />

The <strong>Libra</strong> utilises the standard Rover engine mounts and the standard<br />

gearbox mounting. These mountings bolt directly to the engine frame. The<br />

standard Metro K Series bottom engine mounting is retained with a special<br />

engine steady rod, which bolts to the mounting and forward under the sump to<br />

the underside of the monocoque. The engine frame tubes run backwards and<br />

provide the support for the bottom of the boot and at the far most end pivots<br />

for the rear panel.<br />

Note. There are no connections between the engine frame and the rear<br />

suspension.<br />

Engine frame assembly.<br />

The <strong>Libra</strong> engine frame bolts directly to the monocoque without spacers.<br />

Inside the monocoque are spreader plates.<br />

The center of each hole for the mounting frame is marked on the monocoque<br />

with a small indentation. Drill the center of these indentations with a Ø1.25mm<br />

drill. Open out the holes on the four large mounting plates to Ø8mm clearance<br />

holes and the three holes on the small mounting plates to Ø6mm clearance.<br />

35mm long socket bolts can now bolt the engine frame to the monocoque<br />

using the 12 off 8 x 35mm long socket bolts and the 3 off 6 x 35mm. These<br />

bolts mount through the engine frame mountings, through the monocoque,<br />

and through the spreader plates. They are secured with Nyloc nuts.<br />

Note the Engine Frame is welded on a separate jig and when fitting to the rear<br />

bulkhead of the monocoque a small amount of distortion can be expected. It<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 4.2

may be necessary to strain the frame a small amount in order to assemble all<br />

the bolts through into the monocoque.<br />

Once all the bolts are in place tighten and secure.<br />


The <strong>Libra</strong> utilises all the standard auxiliaries from the K Series Rover Metro.<br />

The ECU relay box, coil and filter unit from the Metro all bolt directly to the<br />

bulkhead. The water bottle header tank bolts via a glass fibre shell to the<br />

drivers side rear engine frame tube directly behind the engine.<br />

Engine assembly<br />

The engine on the <strong>GTM</strong> <strong>Libra</strong> is fitted from under the car. This is best<br />

achieved by jacking the car up to a height where the engine can be<br />

manoeuvred under the engine frame from the rear and then lift the engine with<br />

an engine crane. If you have not got an engine crane then it is perfectly<br />

possible and easy to jack the car up position the engine under the car at a<br />

suitable height and then lower the car onto the engine. The engine mounts on<br />

the standard Rover K Series Metro engine mounts. If you are using the<br />

engine out of any other Rover car and not a Metro it is essential that the<br />

engine and gearbox mounts are changed to those of the Rover K Series<br />

Metro. If you are using an 1800cc K Series engine with the AP1 gearbox it is<br />

necessary to purchase from <strong>GTM</strong> a special adapter bracket for your gearbox<br />

mounting. The engine mounting in this case must also be replaced by the K<br />

Series Rover Metro engine mounting. Before assembling the engine to the<br />

car remove the main engine mounting from the engine by undoing the two<br />

nuts and slide the casting upwards. Mount this casting into the location on the<br />

<strong>Libra</strong> engine frame remembering to incorporate the two standard sideways<br />

rubbers between the casting and the frame. Leave this bolt slightly loose to<br />

enable adjustment to be made as the engine is brought up to the car from<br />

below. On the gearbox end of the assembly mount the standard Rover K<br />

Series Metro gearbox mounting to the gearbox. Disregard the metalwork that<br />

surrounds the mounting that is attached by the two small nuts on the top of<br />

the mounting. This is replaced on the <strong>Libra</strong> by a built in mount on the engine<br />

frame. Jack up the engine or lower the body up into the engine frame from<br />

below the car and as it comes up locate the engine mounting and the gearbox<br />

mounting into the appropriate areas. Tighten up the two vertical bolts on the<br />

engine mount attached to the engine and fit the T0415 gearbox mounting<br />

bottom support under the standard Rover gearbox mounting using two<br />

Ø10mm x 25mm long socket cap screws, washers and Nyloc nuts.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 4.3

Auxiliaries<br />

All the engine auxiliaries on the K Series <strong>Libra</strong> can conveniently be mounted<br />

directly onto the main bulkhead immediately prior to the engine. The<br />

arrangement shown in drawing No 29 at the end of this <strong>manual</strong> shows the<br />

suggested layout.<br />

The main engine relay can be conveniently mounted onto the bulkhead using<br />

the original K Series mounting cut down so it can be bolted directly onto the<br />

bulkhead. Drill two Ø6mm clearance holes in the outside face of the cut down<br />

component and use these holes to drill the bulkhead. Position the relay unit<br />

as close as possible to the indentation in the main mould for the main engine<br />

frame. Position the top of the mounting bracket as close as possible to the<br />

top of the flat surface of the bulkhead.<br />

Mount the coil closely against the relay unit using the standard K Series<br />

mounting and bolt through the bulkhead with two Ø6 x 25mm long set bolts,<br />

washers and nyloc nuts.<br />

Mount the standard K Series Rover fuel filter as shown in the diagram directly<br />

onto the bulkhead adjacent to the coil using two Ø6 x 25mm long set bolts,<br />

Nyloc nuts and washers. Note that the ‘U’ section outlet from the fuel filter is<br />

at the top of the filter body and that the inlet from the petrol tank is at the<br />

bottom.<br />

Mount the engine management ECU to the left of the main relays as indicated<br />

on the diagram using three off Ø6 x 25mm long socket cap screws, washers<br />

and Nyloc nuts.<br />

Finally, mount the inertia switch to the LHS of the Engine Management ECU<br />

using two No 6 x 20 mm long self tapping screws.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 4.4


FRONT SUSPENSION……………………………………………..5.2<br />

Kit components required……………………………5.2<br />

Donor parts required...............................................5.3<br />

Front suspension assembly………………………...5.3<br />

REAR SUSPENSION………………………………………………..5.4<br />

Kit components required........................................5.4<br />

Donor parts required…………………………………5.5<br />

Rear suspension assembly…………………………5.5<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 4.5


The <strong>Libra</strong> uses a conventional<br />

unequally length double wishbone<br />

suspension at the front. It uses two<br />

Metro front hub assemblies with the<br />

standard top ball-joints but special<br />

bottom joints. The outer part of the drive shaft assemblies used on the Metro<br />

are used to secure the front wheel bearings and hubs. They are machined on<br />

exchange by <strong>GTM</strong> Cars Ltd. The top and bottom wishbones are specially<br />

made components and utilise special inner bearings. These bearings are held<br />

by mounting brackets which in turn are bolted directly to the front of the<br />

composite monocoque. A 3mm shim is used on all the mounting brackets<br />

between them and the monocoque to enable fine adjustment to be made once<br />

the car is completed. Separate 1mm shims are provided for this purpose.<br />

Inside the monocoque, spreader plates are used to spread the loads applied.<br />

Adjustable seat height coil over shock absorber units bolt between the lower<br />

front wishbone and the front damper mountings which in turn are mounted to<br />

the monocoque in a similar manner to the wishbone mounting brackets.<br />

The shock absorbers have their adjusters towards the bottom of the shock<br />

absorber.<br />

The <strong>GTM</strong> steering arms replace the standard Metro steering arms. These<br />

face forward rather than backwards as in the Metro. THE LHS METRO HUB<br />


Kit components required<br />

T0200 / T0201 - FRONT TOP WISHBONES.<br />

T0202 / T0203 - FRONT BOTTOM WISHBONES.<br />





© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 5.1


T0209 / T0210 - STEERING ARMS.<br />



T0213 - FRONT DAMPERS.<br />


T0215 - NUT AND BOLT PACK.<br />

The top wishbones T0200/T0201 are difficult to recognise in terms of<br />

passenger and driver side and the top and bottom of the wishbone. Looking<br />

at the pointed end of the wishbone which holds the top swivel, the taper hole<br />

faces down towards the ground. This taper also faces slightly forward. With<br />

the wishbone in the correct position, the front leg of the wishbone is slightly<br />

longer than the rear leg.<br />

Donor Parts required<br />

Two front hub assemblies complete with top ball joints, brakes, callipers,<br />

brake pads and outer part of drive shaft assembly. Steering arm mounting<br />

bushes.<br />

Front suspension assembly<br />

Bush assemblies T0207 should be assembled using molybdenum type grease<br />

included in the pack. Separate all parts of the bush, including the stainless<br />

steel inner sleeves. Grease inside and out of the parts and reassemble inside<br />

the top wishbone T0200. Push the bush into the top wishbone T0200 with a<br />

vice. If the bush will not sit totally inside the wishbone then rotate it slightly in<br />

the vice. Put the bushes in to the top and bottom wishbones for the front<br />

suspension: T0200, T0201, T0202 and T0203.<br />

Install the front wishbone mounting brackets T0204 to the top and bottom front<br />

wishbones. Using the Ø10 x 50mm bolts from fastener pack T0215 (B), keep<br />

the bushes and bracket lined up while other assembly takes place. Have the<br />

head of the bolt facing inwards towards the other bracket. The positions of<br />

the wishbone mounting brackets are indicated on the monocoque by small<br />

indentations. Hold the front RHS wishbone assembly, complete with the<br />

mounting brackets, to the monocoque. The indentations in the monocoque<br />

should line up with the holes in the bracket. Any slight misalignments should<br />

be marked on the monocoque.<br />

Drill out one hole for each of the brackets using a pilot drill and double check<br />

the right position for the holes. Drill the two holes to Ø6mm clearance. Mount<br />

each bracket to the monocoque using a Ø6mm bolt from fastener pack T0215<br />

(A) in the hole drilled.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 5.2

Use this assembly as a jig to drill out the<br />

remaining holes needed for the<br />

assembly.<br />

The 3mm spacer plate must be added to the assembly before the wishbone is<br />

finally put on to the monocoque. The spacer plate is located in between the<br />

monocoque and the mounting bracket.<br />

Loosely mount the top wishbone assembly using the Ø6mm<br />

bolts from the T0215 (A) pack. The spreader plate is then<br />

slotted on to the assembly from the inside of the monocoque.<br />

Use the Ø6 x 35mm long bolts from fastener pack T0215<br />

(A) for mounting except where these bolts will not totally<br />

penetrate the monocoque. For the thicker areas of the<br />

monocoque, 40mm and 45mm long bolts are provided.<br />

Use the shortest bolts possible in the assembly. Mount<br />

only the top wishbones to the monocoque.<br />

Note: it is much easier to mount the brackets with the wishbone assembled<br />

then to assemble the wishbones after the brackets have been bolted to the<br />

monocoque.<br />

Use the Nyloc nuts from pack T0215 (B) and tighten the bolts holding the<br />

wishbone to the mounting bracket. Note that no washers are used in this<br />

assembly to allow the Nyloc nuts to fully penetrate the bolts.<br />

Once you are satisfied everything appears correct, tighten all Nyloc nuts.<br />

The bottom swivels T0208 can now be mounted to the bottom<br />

wishbones using fastener pack T0215 (G). It is easiest to put<br />

one bolt and washer through the swivel and the wishbone and<br />

then rotate the swivel to line up the other two holes. Insert the<br />

other two bolts and washers. Put on Nyloc nuts and washers.<br />

Tighten the Nyloc nuts on the bottom swivel T0208.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 5.3

Hold the completed bottom wishbone assembly to the<br />

monocoque roughly over the indentations. Drill one<br />

hole on each bracket and insert a bolt from fastener<br />

pack T0215 (A). Using this assembly as a jig, pilot<br />

drill the remaining holes. Open the holes to a Ø6mm<br />

clearance. Attach the bottom wishbone assembly including the spacer plates<br />

on the outer side of the monocoque using fastener pack T0215 (A).<br />

Locate the spreader plate on the inside of the monocoque and add washers<br />

and Nyloc nuts. Once you are satisfied with the position of both bottom<br />

wishbones, tighten all the Nyloc nuts.<br />

Mount the front damper brackets T0212 to the monocoque using fastener<br />

pack T0215 (C) in a similar manner to the wishbone mounting brackets.<br />

Take the front damper T0213 and pull out the piston until the<br />

black ring at the top slips off. Slide the black spring T0211 over<br />

the damper. (The spring has no orientation).<br />

Replace the black ring and push the piston back down.<br />

Locate the piston end of the damper into the damper bracket<br />

T0213. Secure with a 60mm long bolt from fastener pack<br />

T0215 (). Push the bottom of the damper in to the housing<br />

on the top wishbone T0200. Secure with a 65mm long bolt.<br />

Add washers and Nyloc nuts and tighten the assembly.<br />

Assemble the front LHS metro hub to the RHS of the <strong>Libra</strong>. The bottom<br />

swivel T0208 slots in to the bottom of the hub. The metro top ball joint is then<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 5.4

olted through the top wishbone T0200. Repeat on the LHS of the <strong>Libra</strong> with<br />

the metro RHS front hub.<br />


The <strong>Libra</strong> rear suspension is an advanced design.<br />

The rear suspension utilises two trailing wishbones on<br />

either side of the car. These wishbones like the front<br />

wishbones are mounted directly via brackets to the<br />

monocoque. Standard Metro front hub assemblies are<br />

bolted to the trailing wishbones using the standard ball<br />

joints at the top and bottom. The bottom ball joint must<br />

be the standard Metro bottom ball joint and not the<br />

GTA or GTi ball joint. Special steering arms are bolted<br />

to the hubs using the standard locations and these in<br />

turn are connected using the standard Metro track rod<br />

end via an adjustable link to a special ball joint. This is<br />

then mounted to the upper trailing wishbone. Special upside down adjustable<br />

spring height coil over shock absorber units mount between the top trailing<br />

wishbone and a mounting bracket bolted directly to the monocoque, high on<br />



Kit components required.<br />

1 x T0300 Rear suspension arm top driver’s side.<br />

1 x T0301 Rear suspension arm bottom passenger side.<br />

1 x T0302 Rear suspension arm lower drivers side.<br />

1 x T0303 Rear suspension arm passenger side.<br />

2 x T0324 Inner rear suspension mounting bracket.<br />

2 x T0325 Outer rear suspension mounting bracket.<br />

8 x T0305 Rear suspension mounting bracket spreader.<br />

8 x T0307 Rear suspension arm bearing.<br />

1 x T0308 Rear steering arms driver side.<br />

1 x T0309 Rear steering arms passenger side.<br />

2 x T0310 Rear suspension steering arm track rod end.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 5.5

2 x T0311 Rear suspension arm track rod end.<br />

2 x T0312 Rear suspension arm adjusting link.<br />

2 x T0313 Rear suspension arm LHT adapter.<br />

2 x T0323 Rear damper unit.<br />

2 x T0315 Rear damper spring.<br />

2 x T0316 Rear damper mounting.<br />

2 x T0317 Rear bumper mounting plate.<br />

1 x T0318 Rear suspension, nut and bolt pack.<br />

4 x T0319 Rear suspension, rod end lock nut.<br />

8 x T0320 Rear suspension, rod end adjuster.<br />

Donor parts required<br />

Two front hub assemblies (solid discs) complete with top ball joint & bottom<br />

swivels (not GTi.)<br />

Rear suspension assembly.<br />

The rear suspension mounts directly to the monocoque. Look at the RHS rear<br />

of the monocoque and identify the indentations made for the mounting<br />

brackets T0324 and T0325. T0324 lines up with the inner set of indentations<br />

and T0325 lines up with the outer set of indentations. Check that all the<br />

indentations line up and mark and misalignments. With a small pilot drill, drill<br />

out the centre of the indentations and then open out to a Ø6mm clearance.<br />

Repeat on the LHS with T0324 on the inside set of indentations and T0325 on<br />

the outer set of indentations.<br />

Loosely mount all four mounting brackets using Ø6mm socket cap head<br />

screws 35mm long from fastener pack T0318 (A). 40mm long bolts are also<br />

provided in this pack to penetrate the thick areas of the fibre glass so that a<br />

Nyloc nut can fit satisfactorily. Use a washer provided in the fastener pack<br />

T0318 (A) between each bolt head and the monocoque.<br />

The rear suspension brackets do not use spacers in between the monocoque<br />

and the bracket. This is due to that fact that a suspension adjustment is<br />

obtained by adjusting the screw threads from the bearings to the wishbone.<br />

Note that the outer mounting brackets T0325 have tapering holes facing<br />

towards each other and the rear suspension arm bearing is inserted from the<br />

bottom and one from the top unlike bracket T0324 where both rear<br />

suspension arm bearings are inserted from the top.<br />

Take four rear suspension arm bearings<br />

T0307 and locate locking nuts on to the<br />

longer threaded end.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 5.6

Screw these bearings in to the pre tapped<br />

tube in the wishbones T0300, T0301, T0302<br />

and T0303. Adjust these inner bearings so that<br />

the<br />

centre of the ball is 39mm from the top of<br />

the tapped tube that holds the bearing.<br />

Turn the lock nut down to the pre-tapped tube and tighten to hold the bearing<br />

in place.<br />

Take the remaining four rear suspension arm bearings<br />

T0307. Each outer bearing is held in the wishbone by two<br />

adjuster nuts T0320. These nuts allow the wishbone to be<br />

adjusted when assembled to the car without the removal of<br />

the bearing from its housing. Screw the long threaded end<br />

into one the adjuster nuts T0320 from the top end of the<br />

wishbone housing.<br />

Insert another adjuster nut T0320 from the bottom<br />

end of the housing and locate the end of the bearing<br />

and carry on screwing in the bearing. Screw in the<br />

bearing until the top edge of the housing is 39mm<br />

away from the centre of the ball of the bearing. This<br />

will be re adjusted when the car is prepared for the road.<br />

The wishbones can now be assembled to the mounting<br />

brackets. T0300 and T0301 assemble to the top of the<br />

mounting brackets T0324/T0325 and T0302 and T0303<br />

assemble to the bottom of the brackets. Use the Nyloc nuts<br />

and washers provided in T0318 (B) to attach the wishbones,<br />

remembering the outer bottom bearings insert from<br />

underneath. Once all four wishbones are loosely assembled<br />

to the monocoque, tighten the Nyloc nuts.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 5.7

Locate the two shock absorber brackets T0316. On the rear of the<br />

monocoque look for two sets of four indentations under the rear window. Pilot<br />

drill these indentations and open up to Ø6mm clearance. Secure the brackets<br />

T0316 using bolts, washers and Nyloc nuts from fastener pack T0318 (E).<br />

Take the shock absorber T0323 and the spring T0315. Pull the piston of the<br />

shocker until the black ring around the top slips off. Slip the spring over the<br />

top of the shock absorber. Replace the black ring around the top by pulling<br />

piston further out if necessary.<br />

The top end of the shock absorber bolts in to bracket<br />

T0316 using fastener pack T0318 (F). The bottom end of<br />

the shock absorber bolts onto the top trailing wishbone<br />

(T0300, T0301) using fastener pack T0318 (G).<br />

The standard Rover Metro hub assembly can now be mounted to the<br />

wishbone using the standard top and bottom swivels. The bottom swivel is<br />

mounted to the top face of the bottom wishbone using the Ø8 x 25mm long<br />

socket cap bolts.<br />

The <strong>Libra</strong> steering arms T0308 replace the standard Rover Metro steering<br />

arms, T0309. These arms are attached to the hub assembly by the Ø10 x<br />

35mm long bolts.<br />

Note the standard Rover Metro location sleeves are retained.<br />

Build up the rear track rods by first fully screwing in the left hand thread<br />

adapter T0313 to the track rod end T0310. This adapter should be securely<br />

screwed in to the track rod end preferably with some form of lock tight. Screw<br />

the left hand threaded half nut to the left and threaded adapter followed by the<br />

adjusting link (Approx. Ball center to center is 330mm.) T0312. Screw the<br />

14mm half nut on to the track rod end T0311 and then the track rod end into<br />

the adjusting link. This assembly can now be fitted to the rear suspension<br />

taking care to make sure that the tapers are well seated. Adjust the adjusting<br />

link to give an approximate straight-ahead position of the hub, which will be<br />

adjusted more accurately on the setup for the road.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 5.8



Assembly………………………………………………6.2<br />

HEATER and PIPE WORK………………………………………..6.2<br />

Heater and pipe work assembly………………………..6.2<br />

Fresh air vents assembly……………………………..6.3<br />

PETROL TANK FILLER…………………………………………...6.4<br />

Neck and cap………………………………………………6.4<br />

Neck and cap assembly………………………………….6.5<br />


Radiator ducting & splash moulds assembly………..6.6<br />


© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 5.9

Radiator mould, radiator & pipe work assembly…….6.7<br />



A standard K Series Rover Metro battery is employed on the <strong>Libra</strong> and is<br />

located in a purpose made box under the spare wheel.<br />

Special battery leads are provided in the kit, which run from the battery<br />

through the tunnel to the engine compartment,<br />

Battery and Battery Moulding Assembly<br />

The battery mounting T0109 mounts between the monocoque and the radiator<br />

ducting. Drill the four small holes in the battery mounting Ø6mm in the<br />

positions indicated by the small indentations. Place the battery mounting<br />

between the monocoque and the radiator ducting to identify the holes that<br />

require to be drilled. Remove the battery mounting and drill the four Ø6mm<br />

holes where indicated.<br />

Replace the battery mounting and attach using Ø6 x 25mm set bolts, Nylocs<br />

and large diameter washers. The bottom bolts that go through the radiator<br />

ducting should be fed through from the bottom so as to minimise the amount<br />

showing under the car.<br />

The battery from the Rover Metro can now be fitted in the battery mounting<br />

with the terminals closest to the monocoque.<br />

The battery leads can now be fitted from the battery towards the drivers side<br />

of the car and through the recess made in the moulding round through the<br />

tunnel over the petrol tank and through the engine.<br />

The red (positive) lead attaches to the solenoid attached to the starter motor<br />

and black (negative) lead runs over the solenoid and starter motor and<br />

attaches to the gearbox bolt immediately behind the starter motor.<br />

The battery leads are attached in the tunnel as indicated on the tunnel<br />

diagram.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 6.1


The <strong>Libra</strong> utilises the standard Metro heater unit. It is mounted in the same<br />

manner as in the Metro but has a special air pipe from the heater fan unit to<br />

the mixer unit in the car. The screen de-misters are special to the <strong>Libra</strong> and<br />

are fed through flexible pipes. Special fresh air ventilators are provided in the<br />

centre of the dashboard and these are fed via a plenum chamber provided in<br />

the internal structure of the dashboard which in turn is fed by the conventional<br />

outlet from the heater unit. Rubber piping feeds the heater unit within the car<br />

through the front bulkhead down to the tunnel at the front of the car. It then<br />

goes through aluminum pipes that run through the tunnel to the engine end of<br />

the car and then through rubber pipes to the standard heater outlets from the<br />

engine.<br />

Heater & Pipe work assembly<br />

Refer to drawing No 10; take the standard Rover Metro fan assembly and<br />

remove the metal clip opposite the central front hole flush with the front of the<br />

mounting plate.<br />

Using a small diameter drill, drill out the six holes in the monocoque to mount<br />

the heater fan assembly in the position indicated by the small indentations.<br />

Open out these holes to Ø6mm clearance. Using the drawing provided, mark<br />

out the aperture required enabling the square air pipe to pass through the<br />

bulkhead. Drill the four corner positions with a Ø10mm drill. Using a jigsaw or<br />

by chain drilling remove the shape from the monocoque. Clean the edges<br />

with a suitable file or production paper.<br />

The heater unit can now be mounted to the monocoque using Ø6mm set bolt<br />

20mm long washers and Nyloc nuts. When screwing the Ø6mm long set bolts<br />

into the captive nuts on the top of the heater blower unit make sure that the<br />

bolts do not protrude too far and foul the plastic of the heater unit. If<br />

necessary cut the bolts down in length. The top face of the heater blower unit<br />

may have to be trimmed to allow the bonnet to fit correctly.<br />

It is extremely important that prior to finally fitting the heater blower unit that<br />

the two mating faces are clean and the rubber gasket is intact to prevent<br />

water seeping through into the cockpit. If you are in any doubt whatsoever it<br />

is advisable to use clear silicone sealant between the two. The Ø6mm bolt<br />

along the front edge of the heater mounting plate in the front outside corner<br />

can be difficult to fit as it is extremely close to the outside edge of the<br />

monocoque. By fitting the plate loosely with the other bolts it is possible to<br />

drill at an angle to get this bolt in.<br />

The heater mixer unit can now be fitted from under the dashboard. Before<br />

fitting the heater mixer unit to the underside of the dashboard it is better at this<br />

stage to fit the heater air duct T0120 to the heater unit. The air duct is<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 6.2

attached to the heater unit using two or three small self-tapping screws.<br />

Where the heater air duct comes up to the fan unit it is necessary to pack the<br />

gap out using a suitable piece of foam. Looking up from under the dashboard<br />

the two holes required to mount the heater have small indents. Pilot drill the<br />

centers and drill out to Ø8mm clearance. The heater unit can now be bolted<br />

up under the dashboard using two Ø8 x 25mm long set bolts, washers and<br />

Nyloc nuts.<br />

Mark the position of the two holes required enabling the heater pipes T0811 to<br />

run through the front bulkhead. Make sure the positions are such that the<br />

pipes miss the spare wheel when in position and also miss the heater blower<br />

unit. Use the grommets to determine the minimum center distance. Drill the<br />

two holes with a Ø35mm hole saw. Clean the holes using production paper.<br />

A good seal is required here to prevent water running through the grommet<br />

into the car. Fit the grommets in the holes and thread the heater pipes<br />

through and secure to the heater unit using jubilee clips. The pipes can now<br />

be run through round the outside of the spare wheel and through the front of<br />

the battery mounting mould onto the aluminum pipes running through the<br />

tunnel. Note that at the heater end of the pipe work a part of the Rover Metro<br />

heater hose is used so as to retain the bleed facility.<br />

At the rear end of the car the heater hoses run above the petrol tank to the<br />

joiners. The Joiners join the standard heater hose into part of the original<br />

Metro hoses and then into the standard positions on the engine.<br />

Fresh Air Vents Assembly<br />

The fresh air vents T0696 are attached to the front of the structural dashboard<br />

with the centres of the vents as indicated on the dashboard moulding.<br />

Drill out the centres with a small drill<br />

and hole saw to Ø70mm. Carefully<br />

remove the centre of the fresh air<br />

eyeball T0696 and use the outside as<br />

a template to drill the four locating<br />

holes through the dashboard fascia.<br />

The holes need to be Ø3mm. These<br />

holes need to be countersunk to allow<br />

the bezel plate T1716 to fit flush<br />

against the dashboard. Do this using<br />

either a specialist countersink drill<br />

piece or use a larger drill bit and carefully drill out just enough to let the head<br />

of the bolt through.<br />

The outside of the fresh air vents can now be attached from the inside of the<br />

dashboard and held in place by four countersunk screws, nuts and washers.<br />

The centre eyeball of the air vent can now be pushed carefully in from the<br />

front of the dashboard.<br />

Attach Bezel plate T1716 to the front of the dashboard with either contact<br />

adhesive or hot melt glue. Check that the eyeballs rotate freely.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 6.3

Put in place the plenum chamber T0122 over the internal part of the<br />

dashboard to direct the air from the heater to the eyeballs. The LHS bolt<br />

holding the heater mixer unit is also used as an earth point so it is necessary<br />

to be able to get to it easily. Use a 32mm hole saw to cut away the corner<br />

enough to get a socket to the earth point.<br />

When fitting the plenum chamber be careful to seal off the holes with a<br />

suitable sealing material to prevent any air leaks. Also seal around the edge<br />

of the plenum chamber to prevent air leaks.<br />

With the heater switched on, the eyeballs should now give a good amount of<br />

fresh air to the cabin.<br />


The <strong>Libra</strong> utilises the standard K Series Rover Metro petrol tank. The tank<br />

must be the appropriate one for the engine being used i.e. should the engine<br />

be fuel injected the tank must contain the appropriate fuel injection pump.<br />

The petrol tank mounts under the monocoque behind the seats. The standard<br />

petrol tank sender-unit is employed. A special flush fitting aluminum filler cap<br />

is mounted on the driver’s side of the car and feeds through a special steel<br />

pipe through the monocoque into the petrol tank.<br />

Petrol Tank Filler Neck and Cap Assembly<br />

Remove the fuel injection pump and the petrol gauge sender unit if separate<br />

from the standard K Series Rover Metro petrol tank. Ensure that all the petrol<br />

has been removed from the tank. It is essential that all the petrol be removed<br />

prior to working on the tank to prevent the explosion. Where the filler neck<br />

enters the body of the petrol tank cut it so that it protrudes from the petrol tank<br />

20mm. Remove any brackets that may be supporting the petrol tank neck on<br />

the standard K Series Rover Metro tank.<br />

Where the large breather tube leaves the petrol tank cut the tube<br />

approximately 60mm from the right angle bend.<br />

The various years of K Series Rover Metro petrol tanks have had several<br />

different forms of venting. Apart from the large diameter 5 * breather pipe<br />

mentioned in the above paragraph cut of and seal up all the other breathers<br />

coming out of the tank.<br />

The <strong>GTM</strong> breather is taken from a T Piece positioned in the * diameter<br />

breather pipe close to the petrol pipe adapter T0621 and as shown in drawing<br />

No 7.<br />

The petrol tank should only be fitted to the monocoque once all the services<br />

have been run through the tunnel including the handbrake cables.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 6.4

The Ø6mm breather pipe is taken up into the driver’s side box section and<br />

back down through the same hole as the main petrol pipe and tie wrapped<br />

appropriately at the point where it exits the body. This breather pipe needs to<br />

be kept well away from the exhaust system.<br />

Referring to the petrol tank drawing in this <strong>manual</strong>, position the tank under the<br />

monocoque and determine the appropriate position for the new holes that<br />

have to be drilled in the petrol tank flange adjacent to the tunnel of the<br />

monocoque. These holes need to be positioned so that the bolts would run<br />

through into the lugs provided in the monocoque moulding. Remove the tank<br />

and drill Ø6mm clearance holes. Reposition the tank under the car and mark<br />

the two holes previously drilled and the other two mounting holes. Remove<br />

the tank and drill all four Ø6mm clearance holes. Position the tank under the<br />

car again and mark the position for the filler tube to come through the<br />

monocoque and the large diameter vent pipe. Remove the petrol tank and<br />

hole saw two appropriate holes into the monocoque to give a good clearance.<br />

Replace the petrol pump and sender unit into the petrol tank. Attach 500mm<br />

of the 5/16” ID petrol pipe to the original K Series Rover Banjo and attach to<br />

tank. Attach 1200mm of 5/16” ID rubber pipe to the return on the petrol tank.<br />

The petrol tank can now be attached to the monocoque using three Ø6 x<br />

25mm long set bolts, washers and Nylocs and one 55mm long x Ø6 bolt<br />

through spacer tube TO622 at the rear of the petrol tank.<br />

Cut, using a hole saw or by chain drilling, the aperture for the petrol filler<br />

T0620. Drill Ø5mm clearance holes for the mounting bolts. Mount the petrol<br />

filler to the outside of the monocoque complete with its funnel. Using T0624<br />

and the 50mm ID rubber pipe 2 inches long attach T0621 adapter pipe<br />

between the filler T0620 and the petrol tank. The 50mm ID rubber pipe 2<br />

inches long can be slid onto the aluminium funnel and then with adapter pipe<br />

T0620 in place the pipe slid back over the gap.<br />

Insert the plastic T piece for the Ø6mm breather pipe into the * ID rubber pipe<br />

coming from the tank and re-connect the other side of the T piece to the<br />

adapter pipe T0621.<br />

It is extremely important when you have completed you car and it is ready for<br />

the road that you check all the petrol pipe joins for leakage. Do not run your<br />

car until you are satisfied that there are absolutely no leaks in the system.<br />


The front end of the <strong>Libra</strong> is held together by the radiator ducting mould. It is<br />

bolted to the monocoque. The design is such to allow a degree of crash<br />

protection in front of the monocoque. The radiator moulding, battery<br />

moulding, bonnet hinges etc. all mount to the radiator ducting mould.<br />

Radiator ducting and splash moulds to monocoque assembly<br />

The radiator ducting T0107 attaches to the monocoque T0100 using six<br />

Ø6mm set bolts 25mm long, Nyloc nuts and large diameter washers from<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 6.5

fastener pack T0607. With the ducting T0107 resting on the car with the two<br />

vertical faces up against the monocoque you will see two indents where the<br />

Ø6mm bolts fit. Remove the moulding and drill these two holes with a Ø6mm<br />

clearance hole. Replace the radiator ducting and position snugly on the<br />

monocoque and mark the two holes. Remove the ducting and drill these two<br />

marked holes a good Ø6mm clearance i.e. Ø8mm. Make sure that the top<br />

face of the radiator ducting moulding protrudes above the top surface of the<br />

central monocoque by approximately 15mm to enable the rubber trim<br />

moulding to fit correctly. Replace the ducting and bolt up the ducting to the<br />

monocoque using two of the Ø6mm bolts.<br />

Now looking from the top of the radiator ducting and inside the ducting<br />

adjacent to the heater blower unit and the pedal box, two further indentations<br />

can be seen for the mounting bolts. Holding the ducting snugly against the<br />

monocoque drill these holes Ø6mm clearance. Remove the ducting and open<br />

out these holes to a good Ø6mm clearance i.e. Ø8mm.<br />

Replace the ducting and secure with Ø6mm bolts, Nylocs and washers.<br />

When bolted up there is a deliberate slot on the rear edge between the<br />

moulding and the monocoque to allow water to drain. Do not fill this slot with<br />

anything.<br />

Now working from within the wheel arches drill a Ø6mm clearance hole<br />

through the ducting and the monocoque on the flange of the ducting<br />

approximately 15mm from the first angle of the wheel arch on the monocoque.<br />

Bolt through with Ø6mm bolts, washers and Nyloc nuts.<br />

Two small splash mouldings TO112/3 are attached to the monocoque using<br />

No 8 self tapping screws and washers from fastener pack T0607 to finish off<br />

the seal path of the wheel arches. The shiny side of the splash mouldings<br />

face towards the door closures. The splash mouldings have a rebated portion<br />

that fits over the end of the radiator ducting.<br />

The shape of the splash moulding means it positions itself. Working from the<br />

inside of the wheel arch attach the splash moulding to the monocoque. The<br />

top edge of the splash mouldings align with the top edge of the radiator<br />

ducting. At the top end of the splash moulding where it goes over the<br />

radiator ducting, drill through both splash moulding and radiator ducting to<br />

allow both components to be attached using the self-tapping screws. When<br />

attaching the mouldings with self-tapping screws drill a clearance hole first in<br />

the splash mouldings and the radiator ducting and the appropriate tapping<br />

size holes in the monocoque.<br />


The <strong>Libra</strong> uses the standard Metro radiator complete with fan assembly. The<br />

radiator locates using its four standard rubbers to the radiator mounting<br />

mould, which in turn bolts to the radiator ducting. In this way the air entering<br />

the front of the car is forced to flow through the radiator. Rubber and<br />

aluminum pipe work takes the water from the engine through the tunnel<br />

through the radiator and back to the engine. The radiator is mounted upside<br />

down compared to the conventional Metro installation with the cooling fan<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 6.6

assembly on the right hand side. A radiator bleed pipe is used as on the<br />

standard Metro and is fed via rubber pipes through the tunnel to the header<br />

tank.<br />

Radiator mould, Radiator and pipe work assembly<br />

Refer to drawing No 9, start the assembly by fitting the radiator to the radiator<br />

support T0108.<br />

The radiator is mounted upside down with the fan on the driver’s side and the<br />

funny shape plastic legs at the bottom. The radiator is mounted on the<br />

standard K Series Rover Metro rubbers. Drill the 2 holes in the top face of the<br />

radiator support, indicated by the small indents with a small pilot drill. Open<br />

out to approximately Ø17mm with a hole saw. Drill the holes indicated on the<br />

bottom mount in a similar manner and open up with a Ø17mm hole saw. Cut<br />

away the area indicated by the scribe lines on the moulding. This is so that<br />

the radiator can be slotted in.<br />

Fit the two standard round Rover Metro radiator mounting rubbers in the two<br />

top holes. Mount two square Rover Metro mounting rubbers onto the plastic<br />

bottom legs which will be at the bottom of the radiator. Slip the two top tubes<br />

of the radiator mountings through the two top bushes already fitted to the<br />

support moulding and then slide in the two bottom rubbers already attached to<br />

the radiator into the slots previously made in the support. The radiator should<br />

now hold itself satisfactorily in the support. Remove the radiator from the<br />

support moulding.<br />

Bolt the radiator support T0108 to the radiator ducting T0107 using two Ø6mm<br />

bolts 15mm long, Ø20mm washers and Nyloc nuts. Force the radiator support<br />

mould down onto the radiator ducting mould and drill three Ø6mm clearance<br />

holes along the bottom lip of the support moulding to attach it to the radiator<br />

ducting mould. Bolt through with three Ø6 x 15mm long set bolts, Nyloc nuts<br />

and 20mm washers. These bolts should be positioned through from the<br />

underside of the car to minimise the amount showing under the car. The<br />

radiator can now be remounted into the support moulding attached to the<br />

ducting mould. The radiator support should not overhang the radiator ducting<br />

so bolt in as tightly as you can.<br />

The radiator water flows from the radiator through aluminium pipes to the<br />

engine. These pipes are joined by standard Rover Metro rubber hoses which<br />

require cutting and modification. The rubber pipes are attached to the<br />

aluminium pipes using the jubilee clips provided.<br />

After the water has left the radiator via a rubber 90-degree bend, a portion of<br />

the standard Rover Metro radiator steel pipe is used to facilitate the bleed<br />

pipe. This is located on the driver’s side. Cut the standard Rover Metro pipe<br />

to a length of 210mm long with the bleed pipe approximately 25mm from one<br />

end.<br />

The other entire Ø1 1/8 " pipes are in aluminium and are provided within the kit.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 6.7

Work through from the front of the car through the tunnel and to the engine.<br />

The Ø5/16” rubber bleed pipe, which comes from the standard Rover Metro<br />

pipe at the front, goes through the tunnel over the petrol tank and through the<br />

header tank on the driver’s side of the engine. Mounting with the terminals<br />

closest to the monocoque.<br />

The battery lead can now be fitted from the battery towards the drivers side of<br />

the car and through the recess made in the moulding round through the tunnel<br />

over the petrol tank and through to the engine. The red positive lead<br />

connects to the solenoid attached to the starter motor and the black negative<br />

lead runs over the solenoid and starter motor and attaches to the gearbox bolt<br />

immediately behind the starter motor.<br />

The battery leads are attached in the tunnel as indicated on the tunnel<br />

diagram (No 8).<br />


Before any pipes can be run through the tunnel is it important to cut the<br />

aperture for the gear lever and mount the gear change bracket T0404. Also<br />

try to drill the holes for the handbrake brackets. For details how to do this look<br />

in section ().<br />


The first pipes to be run through the tunnel are the Ø15mm aluminium heater<br />

pipes T0810. Refer to drawing No 8 and 10. The heater pipes run along the<br />

LHS of the tunnel. This is the same whether it is a left or right hand drive.<br />

Use P clips from pack T0813 and secure the pipes at intervals down the<br />

tunnel. Make sure the P clips will not get in the way of the gear change. Use<br />

fastener pack T0815 (I) to hold the P clips to the tunnel. Push the bolts<br />

through from the outside of the tunnel inwards, using a washer and Nyloc nut<br />

on the inside of the tunnel. Make sure the heater pipes protrude 140mm at<br />

the front of the monocoque.<br />


Battery cables T0909 need to run down the RHS of the tunnel. To get an idea<br />

of how long the battery cables need to be at the front of the car it is a good<br />

idea to put the battery mounting T0109 in place with a battery and loosely<br />

connect the cable so you can see the lengths needed. Remove the battery<br />

and battery mounting T0109 and p clip the cables at four intervals along the<br />

tunnel. Make sure that one p clip is near the gear change so that it keeps the<br />

battery cables firm against the monocoque to prevent fowling.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 6.8

All other cables through the tunnel are tie wrapped to the p clipped cables.<br />

For rough locations in the tunnel refer to drawing No 8. Tie wraps can be<br />

found in fastener pack T0912. The Speedo cable T0702 is run down the RHS<br />

of the tunnel. Roughly make sure the Speedo cable can reach the instrument<br />

binnacle at the front of the car before tie wrapping it to the brake pipes. Run<br />

the clutch cable and wiring loom in a similar way. The handbrake cables will<br />

eventually also be tie wrapped to go over the petrol tank. The clutch cable,<br />

heater pipes and gear change rods run underneath the petrol tank. All other<br />

pipes through the tunnel will run over the petrol tank so it is important to get<br />

these cables close together so they will fit comfortably in the aperture. Before<br />

the petrol tank is put in place the rubber piping needs to be fitted to the rear<br />

end of the smaller aluminium heater pipes using Jubilee clips. These rubber<br />

pipes can then also be run over the petrol tank.<br />

Anything loose in this area will rub against the side of the gear change when<br />

used and eventually fail. When the car is complete ask someone to work the<br />

gear change whilst you have a good look under the tunnel to make sure that<br />

nothing is catching or fowling.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 6.9

LIGHTS<br />

FRONT END………………………………………………………….7.1<br />

<strong>Main</strong> headlights assembly…………………………..7.1<br />

Front indicators assembly………………………….7.1<br />

Side repeater assembly……………………………...7.1<br />

REAR END…………………………………………………………...7.3<br />

Rear light unit assembly…………………………….7.3<br />

Number plate light assembly……………………….7.3<br />

Fog and reversing lamp assembly…………………7.3<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 6.10

HEADLIGHT COVERS……………………………………………...7.3<br />

LIGHTS<br />

Assembly……………………………………………….7.3<br />

All the lights used on the <strong>Libra</strong> are mounted externally to the body mouldings.<br />

The lights on the front and rear panels are fed by a separate wiring loom<br />

which is plugged into the main wiring loom to enable the panels to be<br />

removed completely without disturbing the wiring.<br />


<strong>Main</strong> headlight assembly<br />

The main headlights T1300 (dip and<br />

main beam) and the driving lights<br />

T1311 are held in to the bonnet in the<br />

same manner. Locate the centre of the<br />

circle which is marked to be cut out.<br />

The template in chapter 13 may be<br />

useful for this. Pilot drill a small hole at<br />

the middle of the inner circle. Use a<br />

Ø79mm hole saw and cut out the centre<br />

of the mounting face. Try to ensure the<br />

outline of the hole saw matches up to<br />

the outline on the moulding.<br />

With a small pilot drill, centre the three<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 7.0

mounting holes for the driving lights and headlights, as indicated in the bonnet<br />

moulding. Drill out these holes to Ø7mm.<br />

Unclip the backs for the driving lights and<br />

headlights (T1300 and T1311). Insert the<br />

halogen bulbs taking great care not to touch<br />

the glass as this can damage the bulb. The<br />

smaller bulbs with two pins go in to the driving<br />

lights T1311 and the larger bulbs with three<br />

pins go in to the headlights T1300.<br />

Mount the light units into the plastic retainers<br />

T1301. The light units are retained in the<br />

holders by three spring loaded clips that go over<br />

the top face of the light unit and clip behind the<br />

rear face of the plastic holder.<br />

The whole assembly then mounts into the<br />

bonnet with the spring and washer on the<br />

outside of the bonnet and a washer and<br />

thumbscrew on the inside of the bonnet. The<br />

headlights go in the top large moulding and the<br />

driving lights go on the bottom large moulding.<br />

By adjusting the thumbscrews the angle and<br />

direction of the light unit can be adjusted. On the driving light T1311 it is<br />

necessary to remove one of the three slotted retaining clips attached to the<br />

light unit to ensure the light fits the holder. This can be conveniently removed<br />

using electrical side cutters. The clip to be removed is the top clip just to the<br />

left-hand side of the centre top position.<br />

Front indicator assembly<br />

Side lights assembly<br />

Pilot drill a centre hole and then<br />

remove the centre of the mounting<br />

faces for the lights to approximately<br />

Ø44mm. Using the lights as a<br />

template, drill out the three mounting<br />

holes through the face of the light<br />

using a Ø3.5mm drill. Mount the lights<br />

using three No 8 12mm long selftapping<br />

screws from light fastener<br />

pack T1318 (A).<br />

Pilot drill a centre hole in the smallest light moulding. Using a Ø22mm hole<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 7.1

saw, opening up a hole just big enough to push the side lights through.<br />

Side repeater assembly<br />

Mount the side repeater lights T1316 on the bonnet. The repeater lights<br />

should be in line with the top of the front wheel arches and with their centre<br />

approximately 150mm from the rear face of the bonnet. The size of the hole<br />

needed is Ø20mm. A template is provided in chapter 13. The template fits to<br />

the bottom of the bonnet on either side.<br />

REAR END<br />

Rear light unit assembly<br />

To mount the rear light units T1304 drill the rear moulding to<br />

Ø44mm clearance as indicated. Pilot drill the two mounting<br />

holes for each indicator and brake light. Open these holes out<br />

to Ø3.5mm ready for No 8 self tapping screws. Mount the light<br />

units using the screws provided in the light fastener pack<br />

T1318 (B). The rear connector of the indicators and brake lights can now be<br />

screwed in with the bulb.<br />

Peel the back of the reflector off and attach to the third moulding in the light<br />

unit.<br />

Number plate unit assembly<br />

The number plate light T1310 mounts on the rear panel in the centre so as to<br />

illuminate the rear number plate. Mount the light unit so that its rear most face<br />

is approximately 8mm from the rear face of the car. Cut a hole in the rear<br />

panel approximately 53mm long and 20mm wide to accept the mountings of<br />

the number plate light unit. Clip in the light unit. Note that you have to drill<br />

through both the outer and inner skin of the boot.<br />

Fog and rear light unit assembly<br />

The rear fog lamp T1306 and reversing<br />

lamp T1307 are mounted in a similar<br />

manner. First cut off the plastic hanger<br />

type bracket at the top of the light units.<br />

Remove the front glass panel of the<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 7.2

units and remove the units from their backing plate by undoing the two self-<br />

tapping screws. Drill Ø2 x 4mm clearance mounting hole through the<br />

mounting plate of the light units.<br />


Position the two light units in the rebated<br />

panel on the rear section and drill<br />

through the mounting plates with an<br />

Ø3.5mm drill. Secure the mounting<br />

plates with No 8 self-tapping screws.<br />

Drill out the wire exit hole to Ø12mm<br />

clearance hole. Re-assemble the light<br />

units.<br />

Headlight covers are provided within the kit for the main/dip headlight units.<br />

The Perspex covers fit within a rebate in the bonnet moulding. Stainless<br />

steel self-tapping screws retain the covers.<br />

Headlight Cover assembly<br />

The Perspex headlight covers provided in the kit are already cut to size and<br />

shape. A small amount of sanding of the edges maybe required to make<br />

them fit precisely into the bonnet rebate. Stainless steel screws as per the<br />

rear screen can be used to locate the headlamp covers into the bonnet.<br />

However a number of customers have fixed their headlamp covers in with<br />

black self tapping screws. The Perspex covers come pre drilled and the holes<br />

in the covers can be used to locate the fixing holes into the panel. This is<br />

done by putting a pilot drill through the existing hole in the Perspex cover,<br />

removing the cover and drilling through a clearance hole in the glass fibre<br />

bonnet section or if using self tapping screws the right size hole for the self<br />

tapper being used.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 7.3


SCREENS……………………………………………………………8.2<br />

Perspex screens rear and side…………………….8.2<br />

WINDSCREEN………………………………………………………8.2<br />

Fitting and assembly………………………………...8.2<br />

Washer bottle, pipes and jets……………………....8.3<br />

WIPER MOTOR & BLADES……………………………………….8.3<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 7.4


The <strong>GTM</strong> <strong>Libra</strong> uses Perspex screens to the rear and sides of the car. These<br />

screens are attached to the rear panel using stainless steel nuts and bolts.<br />

The side screens are shaped in such a manner to enable air to be drawn into<br />

the engine bay.<br />

Perspex Screens Rear and Side assembly<br />

The rear window T1006 and the two engine cover side windows T1003 and<br />

T1104 are all made from Perspex. The windows are supplied pre-formed and<br />

all fixing holes are pre-drilled. Position the windows into the moulding<br />

apertures centralise the position and tape into place. Drill through the holes in<br />

the Perspex to mark the glass fibre area which locates the window. Make<br />

sure the drill is smaller than the holes in the Perspex window. Once the<br />

position has been marked in the glass fibre remove the Perspex windows and<br />

drill through the fibreglass with a clearance hole the same size as the hole in<br />

the Perspex windows. You may want to paint a black band on the moulding<br />

around the window surround or fit a rubber strip between the Perspex and the<br />

rear moulding. Fix the Perspex windows in place with the stainless steel<br />

fittings in the Perspex fixing pack T1108.<br />


The windscreen and rear bulkhead screen on the <strong>Libra</strong> are both bonded to the<br />

monocoque using conventional bonding agents. The front screen is laminated<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 8.1

and tinted and the rear screen is toughened glass.<br />

Windscreen and rear bulkhead screen assembly<br />

Although we have fitted a number of windscreens and rear bulkhead screens<br />

ourselves it is strongly recommended that the fitting of the two screens should<br />

be undertaken by a professional windscreen fitter. Using a professional<br />

windscreen fitter has a number of advantages.<br />

1. They will guarantee a fit without leakage.<br />

2. They will be able to offer a number of rubber trim panels to go around the<br />

outside edge of the glass which in turn will make a much neater job.<br />

3. They will be able to supply the black primer paint which is required for the<br />

inside edge of the screens to obscure the glue when they bond them in.<br />


The <strong>Libra</strong> utilises the standard Rover Metro washer bottle, pipes and jets.<br />

The bottle is mounted on pre-moulded supports in the radiator ducting and the<br />

pipes run from the bottle through the front bulkhead of the monocoque to<br />

moulded positions for the two jets.<br />

Windscreen Washer Bottle Pipes and Jets assembly<br />

The standard K Series Rover screen washer bottle is secured to the top of the<br />

radiator ducting with three No 8 self tapping screws 12mm long. The screen<br />

jet tube runs under the washer bottle through the same grommet as the<br />

Speedo cable and across the dashboard to the two K Series Rover Metro<br />

screen jets. These jets fit into the bodywork on the two raised sections either<br />

side of the central mounting position for the bonnet. The standard K Series 'T'<br />

pieces are used between the two jets and the pipe down to the washer bottle.<br />

It is necessary to block off the rear screen wash washer pipe. Measure the<br />

centre of each raised section and pilot drill a hole. Open out to Ø7mm and file<br />

off rough edges. The jets should just push fit in to the hole. Thread the pipe<br />

under the wiper mechanism and out through the smaller grommet in the RHS<br />

of the front bulkhead. From here it connects to the washer bottle.<br />


© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 8.2

Special wiper blades T0685 are used which are provided in the kit. The arms<br />

are standard K Series Rover Metro.<br />

Wiper motor and blades assembly<br />

The standard K Series wiper motor<br />

and mechanism fits directly into the<br />

<strong>Libra</strong> and fits from the underside of<br />

the dashboard. The car has been<br />

designed for both left and right hand<br />

drives. The right hand version using<br />

the two marked holes one in the<br />

passenger side of the center and the<br />

other on the driver’s side. This can be<br />

checked by holding the wiper motor<br />

assembly against the outside of the<br />

car to make sure you’ve got the two correct holes. While the wipers are held<br />

against the bulkhead, make sure the marks for the holes are in the correct<br />

position for your donor mechanism. Using these marks on the monocoque<br />

drill two pilot holes for the wiper motor spigots Ø18mm clearance.<br />

Remove the angled rubber mountings from the K Series Rover Metro<br />

assembly and replace them with the wiper spigot spacers T0699. Before<br />

fitting the motor to the monocoque, grind the corners of the arms under the<br />

bulkhead slightly to prevent them catching on the monocoque. The whole<br />

assembly can now be bolted under the dashboard using the standard K<br />

Series Rover Metro washers and nuts. It may be necessary to bend the<br />

bracket with the rubber bung on it to obtain a nice fit under the dashboard<br />

against the bulkhead. If your electrics are fitted it is advisable to run the wiper<br />

motor to make sure that it does not catch as it rotates against the glass fibre<br />

of the monocoque. Should it catch in any place, relieve the glass fibre to get a<br />

clearance. Take great care to only remove just enough glass fibre to keep the<br />

strength of the bulkhead.<br />

Standard Rover Metro K Series wiper arms are used with the larger blades<br />

T0685 provided within the kit. It is possible to bend the standard Rover Metro<br />

arms at their ends nearest the fitment to the wiper blade to obtain a better<br />

sweep of the screen.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 8.3


WIRING……………………………………………………………...9.2<br />

Wiring for K series Rover Metro………………….9.2<br />

Wiring for Rover 25…………………………………9.2<br />

Assembly for Rover 25…………………………….9.2<br />


Assembly…………………………………………….9.3<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 8.4

Wiring<br />

The <strong>Libra</strong> utilises the K Series Rover Metro or the Rover 100 wiring loom<br />

instruments and fuse boxes. Auxiliary wiring looms are used at the front,<br />

through the tunnel and at the back. The standard K Series Rover Metro<br />

dashboard loom is retained. The colours used are those in the K Series<br />

Rover Metro loom. The central auxiliary loom runs from under the dashboard<br />

forward through the front bulkhead of the monocoque and through the tunnel<br />

to the back of the car. Both the front and rear auxiliary looms unplug to<br />

enable the front and rear panels to be removed completely with their own<br />

wiring looms attached. The standard Rover Metro steering column/Rover 100<br />

steering column and switchgear is retained on the <strong>Libra</strong>. No wires run through<br />

the passenger compartment.<br />

When utilising the <strong>GTM</strong> instrument pack the standard Rover Metro dashboard<br />

loom is discarded and a new loom provided with the instrument pack replaces<br />

it and plugs into the standard Rover Metro loom.<br />

When using a modern K Series engine it will be necessary to fit a 5AS<br />

immobiliser. This immobiliser requires a separate auxiliary loom which runs<br />

from the rear of the car to the front of the car with the immobiliser positioned<br />

under the dashboard for weather protection. When utilising the latest K Series<br />

engine with MEMS 3 units it is necessary to use an auxiliary loom to<br />

supplement the Rover 25 loom in the engine bay. This auxiliary loom plugs<br />

into the standard <strong>GTM</strong> loom.<br />

Wiring for Rover 25 Engines.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 9.1

Unfortunately the Rover 25 engine bay-wiring loom does not include the relay<br />

pack as on all other Rover cars. It is therefore necessary to produce an<br />

additional harness with relays and fuses to supplement the original Rover 25<br />

engine bay harness. This additional harness TO904 fits within the engine bay<br />

alongside the original Rover 25 engine bay harness. The new harness<br />

connects into the original Rover 25 engine bay harness and connects into the<br />

5AS loom as provided by <strong>GTM</strong>. The MEMS 3 ECU and the 5AS unit have to<br />

be matched for them to work. If the units do not come off the same car this<br />

can be undertaken by <strong>GTM</strong> Cars Ltd. The rear oxygen sensor as used on the<br />

Rover 25 is not used on the <strong>GTM</strong>.<br />

Assembly<br />

Consult drawing No 27. The ECU, relays and fuses associated with the<br />

engine mount onto the bulkhead immediately behind the passenger seat.<br />

Connect the ECU to the Rover engine bay wiring loom. Connect the ECU to<br />

the <strong>GTM</strong> auxiliary engine bay wiring loom. The connections to the <strong>GTM</strong> loom<br />

and the Rover loom are all made just in front of the gearbox/engine mounting<br />

inside the engine frame. Before screwing the ECU, fuse box and relay box to<br />

the bulkhead, check that the wires will reach the appropriate connections.<br />

Secure the ECU, relay box and fuse box to the rear of the bulkhead. Connect<br />

the large diameter brown wire to the live side of the starter solenoid i.e. the<br />

side to which the main red battery lead is connected.<br />

Referring to the circuit information in the <strong>manual</strong> with regard to wiring<br />

connections for the MEMS 3 engines, connect the wires together. It will be<br />

necessary to terminate the wires on the Rover 25 loom after removing the<br />

connectors. These terminals are supplied within the auxiliary wiring pack.<br />

The <strong>manual</strong> under the heading Rover 25 connection details indicates which<br />

connectors have to be removed and terminals fitted.<br />

For example wire number one rev counter drive is black/white in the MEMS 3<br />

loom and connects to the black/white in the <strong>GTM</strong> 5AS loom. Wire number<br />

eleven ignition warning light is brown/yellow in the <strong>GTM</strong> 5AS loom and<br />

connects to the brown/yellow in the Rover 25 engine bay loom. Following this<br />

example connect the wires together down to number seventeen. The only<br />

other wire that may cause confusion is wire six which is a large diameter<br />

brown wire in the MEMS 3 loom and this has to be connected to the large<br />

diameter wire in the standard <strong>GTM</strong> loom.<br />

When everything else is completed and the engine runs satisfactorily it is best<br />

to insulate all these connections with insulation tape. Then secure the loom<br />

with tie wraps in appropriate places.<br />


The <strong>Libra</strong> utilises the K Series Rover Metro wiring loom instruments and fuse<br />

boxes. Auxiliary wiring looms are used at the front through the tunnel and at<br />

the back. The standard K Series dashboard loom is retained. The colour<br />

codes used are those of the K Series Rover Metro. The rear auxiliary loom<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 9.2

uns from under the dashboard forward through the front bulkhead of the<br />

monocoque and through the tunnel to the back of the car. Both the front and<br />

rear auxiliary looms unplug to enable the front and rear panels to be removed<br />

complete with their own lamp wiring looms. By using its own wiring loom at<br />

the back and making connections under the dashboard the completed car is<br />

very neatly wired.<br />

The standard Rover Metro steering column switchgear is retained within the<br />

<strong>Libra</strong>. No wires run through the passenger compartment.<br />

Wiring loom and electrical component assembly<br />

Consult drawing No 27. Lay your K Series Rover Metro wiring loom out on<br />

the floor and identify the basic layout. The main body of the layout runs<br />

across the car inside the dashboard. This part of the layout has the fuse box<br />

attached to it and the plugs for the steering column switches and the<br />

dashboard loom. The fuse box is on driver’s side of the car. Running forward<br />

from this loom on either side of the car are two legs which, on the standard<br />

car run forward to the lights on either side of the car. They can be identified<br />

by a large grommet on either leg. This grommet is approximately Ø60mm.<br />

The grommet is used where the wiring loom goes through the front bulkhead<br />

of the car on the Rover Metro and is used in exactly the same manner on the<br />

<strong>Libra</strong>.<br />

On the passenger side of the car just before the wiring loom goes through the<br />

large grommet there is also a leg of the wiring loom which on the standard<br />

Rover Metro runs down the passenger side of the car to the rear of the car.<br />

This leg of the wiring loom has approximately 40 wires in it. This rear leg<br />

leaves the wiring loom that goes across the dashboard at a junction and then<br />

approximately 100mm from the junction spurs leave the wiring loom with black<br />

plugs on them which on the standard Rover Metro are used for the electric<br />

windows and central locking. A further 120mm along there is a purple and<br />

white lead approximately 200mm long that has a single spade connection.<br />

After this lead allow approximately 100mm and cut the wiring loom at this<br />

point all the way through the 40 wires. The rear end of the wiring loom is not<br />

used at all on the <strong>Libra</strong>.<br />

As on the standard K Series Metro the legs of the front wiring looms run<br />

through the bulkhead of the <strong>Libra</strong> through the standard grommets and down<br />

towards the head lights on either side. A small auxiliary wiring loom is used<br />

on the <strong>Libra</strong> to wire the head lights etc and then comes through a grommet on<br />

the passenger side of the car in the radiator ducting to a plug to enable the<br />

bonnet to be removed without having to undo all the head light wiring etc. The<br />

main auxiliary loom on the <strong>Libra</strong> connects to the standard wiring loom on the<br />

passenger side of the dashboard through the standard grommet on the<br />

passenger side and then connects to the standard wiring loom at several<br />

points before going through the tunnel to the rear of the car. At the rear of the<br />

car the <strong>Libra</strong> wiring loom connects to all the auxiliary equipment and then<br />

through to the back passenger side of the car where it is plugged into another<br />

auxiliary wiring loom which runs to the lights at the rear of the car to enable<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 9.3

the rear panel of the car to be removed without the necessity of undoing all<br />

the electrical wires to the lights.<br />

Hole saw the two Ø60mm holes in the front bulkhead in the position indicated<br />

on the drawing. These holes take the standard Rover Metro grommet. Clean<br />

them up with production paper to obtain a good seal as any water running off<br />

the screen will run directly over them. Cut the small hole adjacent to the fuse<br />

box mounting as shown on the diagram. Hole saw the Ø45mm hole to the left<br />

of the steering column as shown on the diagram. Drill two Ø4mm clearance<br />

holes on the top flange of the dashboard in the position shown on the diagram<br />

and indicated on the moulding by the two small depressions. Very carefully<br />

centre drill the two holes on the front face of the dashboard which align up<br />

with the two holes just previously drilled. This will enable a screwdriver to go<br />

up through the front of the dashboard to fit the instrument pack. Open up<br />

these holes to the shape indicated by the depression on the dashboard. Do<br />

this work very carefully; it will be seen when completed.<br />

Loosely lay the cable forms in the car in the position previously described to<br />

make sure that everything roughly fits in the right position. Start under the<br />

dashboard with the fuse box which comes from the standard Rover Metro and<br />

fits from the underside of the dashboard and is located by two No 8 self<br />

tapping screws. The main body of the wiring loom runs in front of the heater<br />

and across to the passenger side. The wires for the switchgear on the<br />

steering column run through the Ø45mm hole previously cut along with the<br />

wires for the brake light switch and throttle off normal switch.<br />

The instrument pack has its own auxiliary wiring loom which in turn connects<br />

into the standard Rover Metro loom at a point adjacent to the fuse box where<br />

there are two plugs one large black and one small with only two wires.<br />

Another plug which is attached to the instrument pack wiring loom runs<br />

through the small Ø25mm hole previously cut next to the fuse box and the<br />

wires connect directly into the fuse box on the under side. The fuse box<br />

should be mounted with the large red relay to the outside rear portion of the<br />

car. Wires from the steering column also connect directly into the bottom of<br />

the fuse box.<br />

There will be many wires and connectors associated with facilities used on the<br />

K Series Rover Metro that are not used on the <strong>Libra</strong>. For example the electric<br />

windows, central locking etc. At this stage do not do anything with these extra<br />

wires. Run the front legs of the wiring loom through the Ø60mm holes<br />

previously made in the bulk head and lay the two legs down the inside face of<br />

the radiator ducting mould.<br />

Lay the large <strong>GTM</strong> <strong>Libra</strong> wiring loom on the floor and attach to it at either end<br />

the auxiliary looms that are used for the bonnet and boot cable runs. The<br />

bonnet cable run can easily be identified as it has the connectors on it to fit<br />

into the headlight bulbs and the driving light bulbs. The rear cable run only<br />

has wires out to attach to the rear lights. By connecting up these cable runs it<br />

easily identifies the front and rear of the wiring loom. Halfway down the wiring<br />

loom you will find the connectors which are used for the petrol tank sender,<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 9.4

petrol tank pump and handbrake. Disconnect the front and rear auxiliary<br />

cable runs and position the main <strong>GTM</strong> <strong>Libra</strong> cable run through the tunnel out<br />

under the front of the battery mounting mould. At the rear the cables run<br />

above the petrol tank down the passenger leg of the engine frame with the<br />

connector for the auxiliary wiring loom approximately 150mm from the end of<br />

the leg.<br />

Working within the passenger side front wheel arch hole saw a Ø40mm hole<br />

in the position shown on the drawing. This hole is to allow the bonnet<br />

auxiliary wiring loom through into the radiator ducting mould. The connector<br />

for the junction to the main <strong>Libra</strong> wiring harness is positioned just inside the<br />

radiator ducting.<br />

The <strong>Libra</strong> wiring loom comes out of the center of the battery mounting and up<br />

the passenger side to the point where the bonnet moulding comes through the<br />

radiator ducting and it plugs in at that point. The harness then splits, one half<br />

goes inside of the passenger radiator ducting and in through the standard<br />

grommet to a point inside the monocoque where it is joined to the previously<br />

cut off standard K Series wiring loom. The leg that goes up into the<br />

monocoque can easily be identified because it has 5 unterminated wires plus<br />

a black wire with a 6mm ring connector. All these wires are fed through the<br />

standard Rover large grommet. The other leg of the <strong>Libra</strong> cable harness runs<br />

across the top of the radiator and down the other side of the radiator ducting<br />

mould.<br />

Now that the wiring harness is in its approximate position start connecting<br />

them up from the dashboard. Connect up the standard K Series dashboard<br />

wiring harness to the instrument pod and the switches on either side of the<br />

instrument display. Connect up the two connectors that connect the<br />

dashboard loom to the main K Series harness. Connect up the long white<br />

connector on the dashboard harness to the bottom of the fuse block through<br />

the hole previously made. Run the legs of the main wiring harness that<br />

connect to the switchgear on the steering column through the previously made<br />

hole and connect up to the switchgear. Connect up the leg of the steering<br />

column switchgear to the underside of the fusebox, run the wire for the throttle<br />

off normal switch if fitted and the brake light switch through the same hole as<br />

the wires going to the steering column and connect up. It may be necessary<br />

on certain models to extend the wires off the brake light switch (green and<br />

green/purple) to get sufficient length to reach the switch on the pedal box.<br />

Connect up all the white connectors on the main K Series loom under the<br />

dashboard to the top face of the fusebox.<br />

On the passenger side of the dashboard connect the five wires of the <strong>Libra</strong><br />

main wiring loom, cut off wires from the standard K Series rear wiring loom.<br />

The colours follow through from the standard K Series wiring loom to the <strong>Libra</strong><br />

wiring loom. Unfortunately there are two green/purple wires in the K Series<br />

wiring harness and it is necessary to join these two together before<br />

connecting to the green/purple wire in the <strong>GTM</strong> harness. Similarly there are<br />

two grey/black wires in the K Series harness and the wire required is the one<br />

that connects through to handbrake warning light in the dashboard. Bus<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 9.5

through the wire to the handbrake warning light and connect it to the<br />

grey/black wire in the <strong>GTM</strong> harness. The five wires can be connected using<br />

the white connector provided in the kit. The remaining wires in the K Series<br />

wiring harness should be capped off using the heat shrink insulating material<br />

provided. This material is best shrunk into position using a hot air blower.<br />

Attach the black earth ring connector on the <strong>GTM</strong> wiring harness to the black<br />

earth ring connector on the K Series Rover wiring harness and insulate with<br />

insulating tape.<br />

All the other wires and connectors on the K Series wiring harness are not<br />

used and therefore should be tie wrapped back onto the harness in a neat<br />

manner to prevent them shorting or rattling under the dashboard.<br />

Working within the radiator ducting on the passenger side, connect up the<br />

black heater blower unit connector from the K Series Rover Metro wiring<br />

harness. Connect the large black connector just in front of the heater blower<br />

unit to the mating connector on the <strong>Libra</strong> wiring harness. Further down the K<br />

Series harness towards the front drivers side of the car is the main heavy duty<br />

fuse block assembly. This assembly will already be attached to the K Series<br />

harness. In the standard car the main power feed to the engine management<br />

cable harness goes directly into the main fuse box at this point. If you<br />

received your car parts from a salvage company it is more than likely that they<br />

will have removed the engine wiring loom from the main fuse box by cutting<br />

the brown wire at this point. If it has not been cut then cut it to separate the<br />

engine management harness from the main K Series wiring harness and join<br />

in to the brown lead coming from the new <strong>Libra</strong> wiring loom using the<br />

connector provided within the kit.<br />

Connect through the connector on the new <strong>Libra</strong> wiring loom to the connector<br />

protruding through the radiator ducting that supplies the headlight harness. At<br />

this point you will see that there is a main black earthing block on the K Series<br />

harness and a 6mm earthing ring on the <strong>Libra</strong> loom. Loosely connect these<br />

two wires together plus a black wire provided in the kit and connect back to<br />

the battery earthing terminal.<br />

Connect the orange/green and green connector on the <strong>Libra</strong> harness to the<br />

thermostat on the passenger side of the radiator.<br />

Connect the purple/black and black wires coming out of the <strong>Libra</strong> harness to<br />

the horn. Connect the black and green/red leads from the <strong>Libra</strong> harness to<br />

the black and green/red leads coming from the K Series harness.<br />

Now moving to the top centre of the radiator connect through the black<br />

connector with the three wires going into it from the <strong>GTM</strong> harness to the<br />

mating connector on the K Series harness. At the same point connect<br />

through the two white wires to the two white wires in the <strong>GTM</strong> harness and the<br />

two black and white wires to the two black and white wires in the <strong>GTM</strong><br />

harness. These wires are for the coil on the 1400cc engines and are not used<br />

on the 1600cc and 1800cc engines using the 5AS harness. It is however<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 9.6

important that the two white wires in the Metro harness are joined together<br />

and the two black and white wires in the Metro harness are joined together. It<br />

is not necessary to connect these wires to the <strong>GTM</strong> harness. Put the plug in<br />

to the radiator fan on the K Series harness.<br />

Starting where the K Series Rover Metro cable harness comes through the<br />

bulkhead on the driver's side run the harness down along the side of the<br />

radiator ducting to the front driver's side of the car. The first arm of the cable<br />

harness with the black and black/white spade connector goes to the top of the<br />

brake hydraulic reservoir. The other leg of this spur with the black connector<br />

on it goes to the wiper motor which is positioned within the monocoque on the<br />

<strong>Libra</strong> and hence has to go through the bulkhead adjacent to the main wiring<br />

harness grommet and through to the plug on the wiper motor. A grommet is<br />

provided for this purpose and an appropriate size hole needs to be made in<br />

the front bulkhead. Here again it is extremely important to clean the hole<br />

properly with production paper to prevent leaks through this grommet.<br />

The next two red and black connectors plug into the pumps on the front of the<br />

standard K Series washer bottle which is mounted to the top of the radiator<br />

ducting mould.<br />

The next connector on the K Series harness is a black earth connector and<br />

this should be joined to the end of the <strong>Libra</strong> harness that has come across the<br />

top of the radiator to the black wire with a 6mm ring connector. Join loosely at<br />

this stage.<br />

Connect the green/white and black spade connectors on the standard<br />

harness through to the green/white and black connectors on the <strong>Libra</strong><br />

harness.<br />

The next connector on the standard K series harness is the connector that<br />

goes to the dim/dip unit. Connect this to the dim/dip unit and leave. Now<br />

working towards the end of the K Series harness coming up the side of the<br />

radiator there is a black connector which connects through to a black<br />

connector on the <strong>Libra</strong> harness. Connect through the two spade connectors<br />

from the standard harness to the <strong>Libra</strong> harness in the same vicinity.<br />

All the wires are now connected and require neatening together. The<br />

mounting of the horn main switch block and the dim/dip unit can be<br />

undertaken once the cable harness has determined the position. Remember<br />

that the mountings should miss the spare wheel when in position.<br />

Follow through the wiring harness as it goes through the tunnel from the front<br />

to the back of the car. Halfway down the wiring harness there are connectors<br />

for the petrol gauge sender unit and fuel pump mounted in the tank. Also in<br />

this position two wires come of the harness to go into the car for the<br />

handbrake off warning light system.<br />

The wiring harness comes over the top of the petrol tank and immediately as it<br />

exits there are four black leads that are connected by an 8mm ring connector<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 9.7

to the same bolt on the gearbox that the main earth connector from the battery<br />

connects to.<br />

There are two black and white leads and two white leads that connect to the<br />

coil.<br />


BRAKE LINES……………………………………………………...10.2<br />

GEAR CHANGE……………………………………………………10.2<br />

Gear change assembly……………………………..10.2<br />


Assembly – Rover 220i or 420…………………….10.3<br />

Assembly – MGF………………………………….…10.4<br />

PEDAL BOX & MASTER CYLINDER…………………………..10.5<br />

Assembly…………………………………………….10.5<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 9.8

STEERING RACK & COLUMN………………………………….10.5<br />

THROTTLE PEDAL……………………………………………….10.6<br />


Assembly…………………………………………….10.6<br />

The Kunifor brake pipes pack T1100 are bendable by hand without any<br />

special tooling. The longest pipe in the pack is run from the rear bulkhead<br />

through to the master cylinder on the front end. Refer to drawing No 15 and<br />

mark on the monocoque where the ‘T’ piece sits on the front and rear<br />

bulkheads. The ‘T’ pieces can be found in fastener pack T1112 (). Drill a<br />

Ø6mm hole for the ‘T’ piece and use fastener pack T1112 (C) to bolt the front<br />

‘T’ piece with the bolt at the top and the rear ‘T’ piece with the bolt at the<br />

bottom. Take two flexible brake brackets T1106 and position them as in<br />

drawing No 15. Mark the pilot holes and drill to Ø6mm clearance. Bolt the<br />

two brackets in to place using fastener pack T1112 ().<br />

Take the front flexible brake pipes<br />

T1102 and unscrew the nut off the<br />

end. Slot the threaded end of the<br />

flexible brake pipe from the outer side<br />

of the bracket. Lock this in to place<br />

with the nut. Bend one of the three<br />

short solid brake lines to fit between<br />

the ‘T’ piece and the bracket T1106. A<br />

suggested way to bend the brake<br />

pipes is shown in drawing No 15. Try<br />

to bend the pipes at right angles to<br />

make a neater job. Once the brake<br />

pipe is bent, screw the other end in to the ‘T’ piece. Repeat on the other side<br />

at the front end. When both brake pipes are screwed into the ‘T’ piece,<br />

tighten the nuts to ensure there will be no leaking of brake fluid.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 10.1

At the rear take the longest<br />

brake pipe and screw it in to the<br />

bottom thread of the ‘T’ piece.<br />

Feed the pipe in to the tunnel<br />

taking car to bend it as close to<br />

the monocoque as you can.<br />

Feed it through the tunnel<br />

making sure it goes above the<br />

gear change front support<br />

T0404. At the front of the tunnel<br />

it bends up to the master<br />

cylinder. Take the third short<br />

piece of solid brake pipe and<br />

bend it as shown in drawing No 15. Drill Ø6mm holes for the remaining<br />

flexible brake brackets T1106 and bolt them on using fastener pack T1112 ().<br />

Once all the brackets are tight and each end of the brake pipes is screwed<br />

together, p clips must be used to secure the brake pipes against the<br />

monocoque. Start by securing the pipe through the tunnel. The p clips are<br />

provided in fastener pack T1112 (H) and the nuts, bolts and washers are in<br />

fastener pack T1112 (D). The brake pipe should run down the RHS of the<br />

tunnel and have four p clips evenly spaced along the length of the tunnel.<br />

Refer to drawing No 8 for the exact position in the tunnel. Take care to keep<br />

the brake pipe away from the gear change so that it will not fowl. Mark the<br />

positions of the four p clips and drill Ø4mm holes. Put a bolt and washer on<br />

the fibre glass side of the monocoque and a washer and Nyloc nut on the gel<br />

coat side of the tunnel.<br />

On the front and rear bulkheads position p clips roughly where drawing No 15<br />

suggests. Drill holes Ø3.5mm for the self tapping screws in fastener pack<br />

T1112 (A). Double check all joins in the brake pipes are secure and tight.<br />

Tighten all the p clips so that the pipes are secure to the monocoque.<br />

Heat Shield<br />

A heat shield is necessary to<br />

protect the brake fluid in the brake<br />

pipes from getting too hot. The<br />

heat shield provided T0693 is glued<br />

to the monocoque using a contact<br />

adhesive. There is an aperture in<br />

the rear bulkhead to show where<br />

the heat shield should roughly go.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 10.2


The gear change on the <strong>GTM</strong> <strong>Libra</strong> is purpose designed for the mid engine<br />

configuration. It runs from the gear change in the front of the car through the<br />

tunnel under the petrol tank and engine to a pivot assembly attached to the<br />

engine frame. It utilises certain parts from the standard K Series Rover Metro<br />

gear change and therefore requires a K Series Rover Metro gear change in<br />

exchange. The gate remains the same as a standard K Series Rover Metro.<br />

Gear Change assembly.<br />

Consult drawing No 18. Mark out the hole for the gear lever and drill the four<br />

corners. With a jigsaw or by chain drilling, cut out the hole. Refer back to<br />

drawing No 18 and mark the position of the three holes to hold the gear<br />

change mounting bracket T0404. Pilot drill the three holes and open to Ø6mm<br />

clearance. Use fastener pack T0403 (H) to secure the bracket. The gear<br />

change assembly used on the <strong>Libra</strong> comes completely modified from <strong>GTM</strong><br />

Cars Ltd and it is only necessary to push the front pivot through the standard<br />

K Series mounting at the front and attach the pivot bar at the back to the<br />

engine frame. This pivot bar at the back utilises the standard K Series Rover<br />

Metro bushes. Now attach the two link rods to the gearbox one of which has<br />

been modified by <strong>GTM</strong> Cars Ltd.<br />

By adjusting the length of these link rods it should be easy to obtain the<br />

appropriate gate in the gear change.<br />

Check that everything runs freely under the car and that the gear change is<br />

not rubbing up or hitting against any of the pipe work through the tunnel.<br />


The <strong>GTM</strong> <strong>Libra</strong> utilises the Rover 220i or 420 rear callipers or the MGF rear<br />

callipers. When using the Rover 220i or 420 rear callipers, the handbrake<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 10.3

cables and handbrake lever are used off the same car. When using the MGF<br />

rear callipers special cables are used plus the handbrake lever of the Rover<br />

220i or 420. The callipers bolt to the standard Rover Metro front hub<br />

assembly employed at the back of the lever. With the Rover 220i or 420 rear<br />

callipers special adapter plates are provided in the kit to facilitate this. With<br />

the MGF calliper these bolt directly to the hub without the adapter plate but<br />

using 2 special eccentric bushes. The cables run from the callipers over the<br />

petrol tank and into the driving compartment. The handbrake lever is<br />

mounted to the tunnel, the outer cable mounting from the Rover 220i or 420 is<br />

also utilised next to the lever. When using the Rover 220i or 420 callipers or<br />

the MGF callipers, the rear disc utilised from the front disc of the Rover Metro<br />

has to be reduced in thickness. This is done on an exchange basis by <strong>GTM</strong><br />

Cars Ltd.<br />

Handbrake lever cables and callipers assembly – Rover 220i or 420.<br />

There are two drawings at the end of this <strong>manual</strong> relating to this paragraph,<br />

No 13&14. The standard Rover 220/420 rear callipers are fitted to the<br />

standard K Series Rover Metro front hub assemblies via an adapter plate<br />

T1107. This is shown on the center drawing at the rear of this <strong>manual</strong>. The<br />

adapter plate T1107 is attached to the hub via two Ø14mm 2mm pitch 20mm<br />

long socket cap head screws. To accept the screws, the holes in the K Series<br />

hubs that originally attached the K Series callipers have to be tapped out<br />

appropriately. Fortunately the tapping size hole for the 14mm thread is the<br />

hole already in the K Series hub. It is therefore only necessary to tap out the<br />

holes in the callipers. Should you have difficulty in obtaining a suitable<br />

tap one is available from <strong>GTM</strong> Cars LTD on a loan basis.<br />

So that T1107 can fit flush against the rear face of the Rover Metro hub it is<br />

necessary to fettle (grind or file) the face of the hub casting. Clear away all<br />

metal that prevents T1107 fitting flush against the hub face. Using the two<br />

Ø14 x 2 x 20mm long socket cap head screws provided in pack T1110 attach<br />

the carrier T1107 to the hub.<br />

The Rover 220/420 calliper is attached to the adapter plate T1107 via two<br />

spacers T1108. It may be necessary to fettle the side face of the Rover Metro<br />

hub slightly to enable the spacer to sit squarely on the adapter plate T1107.<br />

By placing the Ø10mm bolt through the hole in T1107 and putting the spacer<br />

T1108 on it, the area that has to be fettled away can be clearly seen.<br />

On the Rover 220/420 callipers the bracket that holds the handbrake cable to<br />

the calliper has to be removed before the calliper can be fitted to the adapter<br />

plate T1107. The track control arm T0308 on the <strong>Libra</strong> has a location for the<br />

outer cable of the standard Rover 220/420-handbrake cable.<br />

The standard solid Rover K Series front disc has to be skimmed to 10mm<br />

thickness; this is done by <strong>GTM</strong> Cars Ltd. on an exchange basis.<br />

Once you are satisfied that everything fits together without interference and is<br />

square and true assemble the caliper and adapter T1107 to the hub using the<br />

bolts provided. We strongly recommend the use of lock tight or some<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 10.4

similar thread locking substance when finally locking up these bolts.<br />

Now mount up the Rover 220/420handbrake<br />

lever to the tunnel as<br />

illustrated on the appropriate drawing<br />

in the rear of this <strong>manual</strong>. Start by<br />

marking out all the holes needed and<br />

drill them all before anything is run<br />

through the tunnel.<br />

Attach the Rover 220/420 standard<br />

handbrake lever to the top of the <strong>Libra</strong><br />

tunnel in the position shown on the<br />

drawing using two Ø8mm set bolts<br />

20mm long and on the inside of the tunnel T1110. Make sure that the<br />

handbrake lever is central to the tunnel.<br />

Attach T1105 handbrake cable mounting bracket to the top of the tunnel in the<br />

position shown on the diagram using two Ø6 x 20mm long set bolts, washers<br />

and Nyloc nuts. The Rover 220/420 standard outer cable bracket can now be<br />

mounted to T1105 using two Ø8 x 10mm long set bolts, washers and spring<br />

washers. It may be necessary on certain Rover 220/420 outer cable brackets<br />

to remove a certain amount of the bracket that is not required.<br />

The two holes can now be drilled in the tunnel of the monocoque to allow the<br />

cables to run through over the petrol tank. By carefully elongating these holes<br />

it is possible to fit the standard Rover 220/420 handbrake cable grommets<br />

neatly into the top of the monocoque tunnel.<br />

The cables run over the top of the petrol tank, over the top of the top<br />

wishbones to the outer cable-mounting bracket on the rear steering arm<br />

T0308/9, T0308 being drivers side. The cables are secured to the top of the<br />

top wishbone T0300 using two 10mm P clips per side and No 10 self tapping<br />

screws. The handbrake can now be adjusted in the normal manner and<br />

should work satisfactorily.<br />

Handbrake callipers MGF.<br />

The MGF handbrake callipers are utilised at the rear of the <strong>GTM</strong> in exactly the<br />

same way as the Rover 220i or 420 callipers. The callipers are attached to<br />

the hub without the use of an adapter plate but with the use of two eccentric<br />

bushes. These two eccentric bushes fit into enlarged holes that are used for<br />

the existing callipers at the front of the K Series Rover Metro. The two holes<br />

that hold the two front callipers on the Metro have to be enlarged to Ø17mm.<br />

This drills out easily but should you not have a Ø17mm drill <strong>GTM</strong> will be happy<br />

to drill them out for you. With the two eccentric bushes T1115 fitted into these<br />

Ø17mm holes and positioned such as to give the largest spaces between the<br />

two Ø10mm holes within the bushes the MGF callipers will bolt onto the Metro<br />

hub without alteration. When using the MGF callipers special cables T0114a<br />

must be used which are obtainable from <strong>GTM</strong>. The rest of the assembly is<br />

similar to the previously described assembly for the Rover 220i or 420 rear<br />

callipers.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 10.5


The <strong>Libra</strong> uses the standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box assembly,<br />

complete with master cylinder and vacuum assist servo. The assembly<br />

mounts in exactly the same manner as used in the K Series Rover Metro.<br />

Specially designed clutch and brake pedals are provided in the kit and mount<br />

onto the pedal box assembly in the same manner as the K Series Rover<br />

Metro.<br />

Pedal Box and Master Cylinder assembly<br />

The standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box comes apart very simply and<br />

should cause you little problem. If you do incur a problem, refer to drawing No<br />

12&34. While everything is disassembled, any modifications should be done<br />

for example fitting the hydraulic clutch. If the hydraulic clutch is to be fitted it<br />

is much easier to machine the plate when it is separated from the rest of the<br />

assembly. Use the plate to line up the indents in the monocoque to the<br />

mounting holes in the plate. Mark any misalignments and remove the plate.<br />

Drill the two holes that line up with the self captivating nuts to Ø8mm. The<br />

three other holes need to be drilled to Ø6mm clearance. The bottom left hand<br />

hole needs to be drilled to Ø5mm and a Ø6mm self tapper used because it<br />

goes through into the thick fibre glass. Remove the brake and clutch pedals<br />

and take out the plastic top hat section bearings. Replace these bearings in<br />

the specially designed brake and clutch pedals obtained in the kit and reassemble<br />

the pedal box in the same manner as it would be with the standard<br />

pedals. When re<strong>build</strong>ing the K Series Rover Metro pedal box do not use the<br />

brake pedal return spring.<br />

Once the pedal box is assembled, mount it to the monocoque. Push the<br />

mounting bolts and washers through from the outside of the monocoque and<br />

secure with washers and Nyloc nuts on the inside of the monocoque. The two<br />

Ø8mm bolts use washers on the inside only and mount from the inside of the<br />

monocoque outwards.<br />

The standard Rover K Series pedal rubbers fit straight onto the new brake and<br />

clutch pedals. The brake and clutch pedal pads are also drilled to accept after<br />

market brake and clutch pedal pads.<br />

A support goes from the standard Rover pedal box to the underside of the<br />

dashboard as shown in <strong>manual</strong> drawings.<br />

The support TO616 bolts through an existing hole in the pedal box and to the<br />

underside of the dashboard. The support is located with two Ø8mm set<br />

screws 25mm long with Ø8mm washers and Nyloc nuts.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 10.6


The <strong>Libra</strong> uses the standard Metro steering column bolted directly to the<br />

bottom of the structural dashboard. The steering column is spaced off the<br />

bottom of the dashboard using two TO618 at the top and two TO617 at the<br />

bottom. The bottom link between the two universal joints is lengthened on<br />

exchange by <strong>GTM</strong>. Once lengthened, this link bolts directly to the steering<br />

rack. The steering rack used by the <strong>Libra</strong> is a standard Metro L.H.D. steering<br />

rack, which bolts directly to the monocoque through the horizontal front panel.<br />

The steering rack is held off the monocoque by two 3mm spacers which allow<br />

for any final adjustment. Spreader plates are used under the clamping bolts<br />

inside the monocoque. In a similar manner to the Metro, two bolts and a<br />

standard Metro clamp are used at one end and are held with a special U bolt<br />

provided in the kit. The track rod ends used on the <strong>Libra</strong> are the standard<br />

Metro track rod ends and not the GTA GTi track rod ends. The track rod ends<br />

are fitted to the steering rack in the standard manner once the special steering<br />

rack extenders have been fitted to the steering rack. These extenders are<br />

screwed and lock bolted to the steering rack.<br />


The throttle pedal used on the <strong>GTM</strong> <strong>Libra</strong> is specially designed for the <strong>Libra</strong>.<br />

It mounts on the side of the standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box as<br />

shown in the diagram.<br />

Throttle Pedal Assembly<br />

The throttle pedal T0704 mounts through an existing captive Ø8mm nut on the<br />

side of the standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box. Using a standard Ø8 x<br />

50mm long bolt, mount the throttle pedal to the K Series Rover Metro pedal<br />

box with two standard washers either side the throttle pedal and lock off the<br />

Ø8mm bolts on the inside of the pedal box to prevent it coming undone with a<br />

standard Ø8mm nut. Make sure that the throttle pedal runs freely and grease<br />

the bearing surfaces.<br />

Mount the throttle cableT0701 and switch bracket T0703 to the standard K<br />

Series pedal box as shown on the drawing using one Ø8 x 20mm long set bolt<br />

and Ø8mm washer. This bolt bolts through into the capped nut already on the<br />

pedal box assembly. The bracket mounts the 'throttle off' normal switch if you<br />

are using an early 1400cc GTi engine. It also forms a stop for the throttle<br />

pedal and mounts up the throttle cable. There are two holes for the throttle<br />

cable to go through and choose the one that matches the movement on your<br />

throttle body.<br />

The throttle cable T 0701 runs under the driver’s side carpet from the throttle<br />

pedal down the side of the sill and through the box section that supports the<br />

front edge of the seat runners. The cable then goes across to the corner of<br />

the floor where it meets the petrol tank moulding approximately 40mm from<br />

the side of the tank towards the centre of the car. The cable then runs under<br />

the engine up and across to the throttle body. It is extremely important that the<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 10.7

throttle runs freely and make sure that you have not got any tight bends or<br />

restrictions to the cable. On the throttle there is a small hole to enable you to<br />

fit a spring between it and the old throttle off normal switch bracket attached to<br />

the standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box assembly. The standard Rover<br />

spring is appropriate.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 10.8


EXHAUST……………………………………………………….11.2<br />

Exhaust system assembly……………………..11.2<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 11.1


The exhaust system on the <strong>Libra</strong> utilises the standard Rover Metro manifold.<br />

After the manifold, the exhaust system is all purpose designed in stainless<br />

steel. The exhaust system mounts directly to the engine gearbox assembly<br />

and not to any other framework on the car. The exhaust system has a small<br />

flexible section to take out the stresses generated by the expansion of the<br />

stainless steel. The exhaust system is so designed to allow the standard K<br />

Series Rover Metro catalyst to be fitted should the customer wish, or this can<br />

be replaced by a special pipe of the same dimension as the catalyst. The<br />

silencer itself is straight through and has a stainless steel heat shield around it<br />

to prevent the boot on the <strong>Libra</strong> becoming warm.<br />

Exhaust system assembly<br />

Refer to drawing No 31. Mount the main exhaust silencer to the engine first<br />

with the engine mounted in the car. It is possible to maneuver the exhaust<br />

system through and below the main cross tube of the engine frame with care.<br />

On the drivers side of the car mount the exhaust system mounting brackets to<br />

the two Ø10mm tapped holes just to the right looking from the rear of the<br />

dipstick. It may be necessary to slightly bend the dipstick out of the way of the<br />

exhaust bracket. The exhaust is attached to the engine using two Ø10mm<br />

socket cap head screws 15mm long and Ø10mm washers.<br />

Fix the gearbox mounting bracket to the driver’s side of the exhaust system<br />

using the three Ø8 x 10mm long set bolts and washers. By holding the<br />

exhaust system horizontal and square to the car it should be clear which two<br />

gearbox bolts have to be removed to bolt the exhaust system to the gearbox<br />

on the passenger side of the car. The exhaust system can now be bolted up<br />

firmly on both passenger and drivers side of the car and should be horizontal<br />

and true to the car.<br />

Mount the stainless steel pipe with the flexible portion in it to the standard K<br />

Series Rover Metro manifold using the gasket provided T1202 and some<br />

exhaust paste. The standard K Series Rover Metro catalyst can now be fitted<br />

between the two stainless steel plates of the exhaust system or alternatively<br />

the stainless steel pipe provided in the kit. Use one of the gaskets T1202<br />

provided on either side of the stainless steel plate at both ends and attach at<br />

the driver’s side using Ø10 x 13mm long set bolts, nuts and washers and<br />

paste. Now attach the ‘U’ section stainless steel between the end of the<br />

catalyst pipe and the silencer itself using gaskets and paste. The new pipe<br />

attaches to the silencer using the same Ø10 x 30mm long set bolts. Tighten<br />

all bolts securely and when the engine is running check for any leaks.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 11.2


Suspension adjustments………………………………………..12.2<br />

The steering rack………………………………………………….12.3<br />

On the road…………………………………………………………12.4<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 12.1


The front suspension of the <strong>GTM</strong> <strong>Libra</strong> utilises two unequal length wishbones<br />

on either side. These wishbones are attached to the monocoque through<br />

mounting brackets with shims. The camber angle of the front wheels can<br />

therefore be adjusted to the required angle. A small amount of castor angle<br />

adjustment is possible by fitting different size shims to the front or rear of any<br />

wishbones. The front upside down shock absorbers have adjustable spring<br />

seats for ride height and adjustable damping settings. Different spring rates<br />

can be obtained from the factory.<br />

The rear suspension uses two trailing wishbones at either side. Refer to<br />

drawing No 25. These wishbones have adjustable ends and therefore the<br />

camber angle can be adjusted. The coil over shock absorber unit has<br />

adjustable spring seat and adjustable damper settings.<br />

By carefully following the instructions below the amateur <strong>build</strong>er should be<br />

capable of setting the car to the standard setting advised by the factory.<br />

Suspension Adjustments<br />

The car suspension adjustment can not be undertaken until the car is fully<br />

built and all the weight associated with the <strong>build</strong> is on the suspension.<br />

The track on the front and the rear of the car is the same and therefore by<br />

using the front suspension as a guide and a suitable straight edge along the<br />

side of the car it is possible to set the suspension approximately in the right<br />

position. At this stage set the rear camber angle at 0 degrees i.e. with the<br />

wheel vertical to the ground.<br />

At this stage the sides of the sill can be used as a good guide as to the<br />

position of the rear wheels side to side.<br />

Make yourself a ride height gauge by cutting a piece of wood or other suitable<br />

material to a size 5″ in one direction and 5 ½ ″ in the other direction. The 5″<br />

represents the ride height under the front and rear parts of the sill when the<br />

car is fully loaded with passenger and driver and the 5 ½ ″ represents the<br />

height under the same position without the driver and passenger. All settings<br />

can be made to the suspension geometry at the 5 ½ ″ ride height.<br />

Adjust the adjustable shock absorbers to the minimum setting and adjust the<br />

adjustable spring height on the shock absorber to give you the 5 ½ ″ required at<br />

the front and rear corners of either side sills.<br />

The car should now be capable of being pushed around to enable you to find<br />

a suitable flat area on which to adjust the suspension more accurately. The<br />

area you choose must be as flat as you can possibly find.<br />

With the car on the most level piece of ground you can find check the heights<br />

of the two front wheels relative to each other with a spirit level and a straight<br />

bar placed on the ground between the two. It is possible to pack up one side<br />

of the car relative to the other using newspaper or magazines to get two<br />

wheels exactly level to each other. The same can be repeated at the back of<br />

the car to get the two rear wheels exactly level with each other. The relative<br />

positions of the back wheels relative to the front are not particularly important<br />

and therefore need not be adjusted.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 12.2

With the car level and in its final position recheck the ride heights to 5 ½ ″<br />

taking into account any packing materials you may have used on the wheels.<br />

The Steering Rack<br />

Start at the front of the car. Before any adjustment can be made to the tow-in<br />

at the front of the car it is necessary to determine the central position in the<br />

steering rack. Moving the steering wheel to one extreme, measure the<br />

amount of turn to the other extreme, halving the movement and determining<br />

the central position can do this. Once these central positions have been<br />

determined mark the top of the steering wheel with some masking tape and<br />

check that the movement left and right is the same. Once you are sure you<br />

have the central position it is a good idea to put the steering wheel itself with<br />

its spokes in the central position so that when you drive the car it can be<br />

clearly seen whether it is steering correctly.<br />

Using a straight bar that will run from the front of the front wheel to the back of<br />

the rear wheel, hold the bar halfway up the wheels and adjust the tow-in on<br />

the wheel to give approximately a tow-in on either side of 2mm. On certain<br />

Metro steering racks you may find it necessary to remove a small proportion<br />

of the threaded end of the steering link to enable the correct adjustment to be<br />

obtained. This can be done using a suitable hacksaw and file. Repeat for the<br />

other side of the car.<br />

The adjustment of the camber angles for the front wheels is both covered as it<br />

has been found that this angle is pretty near correct straight from the factory.<br />

The wheels at the front should be vertical and as long as your car does not<br />

deviate from this measurement unduly our suggestions that you leave it at<br />

present and tackle any changes at a later date. Methods of making<br />

adjustment to the camber angle at the front are detailed at the end of this<br />

<strong>manual</strong>.<br />

Moving to the back of the car the set up is more complex. Camber angle and<br />

tow in are both adjustable as well as the track that the car runs at.<br />

The car runs with a rear camber angle of minus 1 ½ -2 degrees. This means<br />

that the top of the tyre leans in towards the car by 1 ½ - 2 degrees. Set the<br />

camber angles to be around this figure by adjusting the top wishbone<br />

adjusting nuts on the outside face of the wishbone. Set the tow in to be<br />

square with the front wheels i.e. neither towed in nor towed out.<br />

Referring to the diagram and looking from the back of the car set the<br />

dimension five 550mm on the driver's side of the car from the face of the<br />

casting where the drive shaft protrudes to the centre nearest bolt on the<br />

bottom wishbone. To obtain this adjustment it is necessary to adjust only the<br />

bottom wishbone with the two locking nuts on the outside ball joint and then<br />

re-adjust the top wishbone to obtain the correct camber angle. Working<br />

similarly on the passenger side adjust the distance from the face of the<br />

casting where the passenger side drive shaft protrudes to the centre of the<br />

first bolt on the bottom wishbone to 365mm. Now re-adjust the top passenger<br />

side wishbone to obtain the correct camber angle.<br />

It is difficult to measure exactly these two dimensions but try to get them as<br />

close as you can. An accuracy of plus or minus 2mm will be satisfactory, as<br />

any slight error in the track will not in any way adversely affect the handling of<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 12.3

the car. Once you have set these bottom wishbones and locked up the lock<br />

nuts it should not be necessary to readjust them again.<br />

Whilst the car is situated on a level ground it is advisable to repeat the whole<br />

of the setting up procedure again making sure that you are satisfied that<br />

everything is correct. Once satisfied that everything is correct adjust the rear<br />

tow-in to be between 3 and 4mm at the wheel rim. This can be only be done<br />

by relating the back wheels to the front wheels as the wheels must be aligned<br />

to the car. A convenient method is to place a straight edge along the wheels<br />

between the front and rear and then measure the distance.<br />

The removal or addition of shims between the wishbone mounting brackets<br />

and the monocoque can obtain adjustment of the front camber angles.<br />

Always add the same amount of shims to the front and rear mounts of any<br />

one wishbone. Try to minimise the amount of changes you make by reducing<br />

the shims on the top wishbone and increasing the shims on the bottom<br />

wishbone for instance rather than just increasing the shims on the bottom<br />

wishbone. Any changes made here of course will necessitate the rear<br />

adjustment of the tow-in of the front wheels.<br />

On the road<br />

Your car is now ready to be driven but before doing so please recheck all the<br />

safety items i.e. brakes, steering, suspension etc to make sure that you are<br />

absolutely sure everything is satisfactory.<br />

Drive the car a short distance very carefully and then return and recheck all<br />

safety items. Check that the water level has remained constant and that there<br />

are no leaks from any fluids.<br />

Set the front and rear shock absorbers to 10 clicks away from the minimum<br />

setting as a start.<br />

Final adjustments<br />

Put in rear view mirror at a suitable height. Locate <strong>GTM</strong> badges and place the<br />

large <strong>GTM</strong> badges on the front and rear panels of the car. Place the small<br />

<strong>GTM</strong> badges on the four wheels. Fit any accessories i.e. gear knob or stereo.<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 12.4


Notes………………………………………………………………...13.2<br />

Notes………………………………………………………………...13.3<br />

Notes………………………………………………………………...13.4<br />

Necessary supplements and Templates<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 13.1

Build Notes<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 13.2

Build Notes<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 13.3

Build Notes<br />

© <strong>GTM</strong> CARS LTD. 13.4


The process to modify the MGF cable gear change assembly to fit into the <strong>GTM</strong> is as<br />

follows:<br />

Important: Do not fit the cables before fitting the fuel tank!<br />

Remove the gear lever gimbal from the MGF bracket assembly and then fit this into<br />

the bracket T2099 supplied from <strong>GTM</strong> using the fixings provided. Remove the<br />

counter weight completely as close to pivot as possible ( The pivot bolt head may<br />

need grinding slightly if it impedes movement in T2099 ). Drill a 4mm or 5mm hole<br />

in fore/aft moving plate of the MGF part approx ½ way between the spring holding<br />

legs on T2099. Use an M4 or M5 nut/bolt in this hole to provide the centre fixing of<br />

the two springs T2100 and then connect each spring to each leg on T2099. The<br />

springs provide the return for the gear lever to centre/neutral position. Drill a 70mm<br />

diameter hole, 610mm forward from datum (see location drawing supplied). The<br />

gearlever should be positioned in the centre of this hole and the fixing bolts to retain it<br />

in position should be 35mm from the top face of the tunnel. (Note: Use the bracket as<br />

a jig to mark the hole positions at 35mm from the top face )<br />

Next remove the ball joint from the short cable at the gear box end and fit extender<br />

rod T2097 and then re-fit the ball joint.<br />

The long cable attaches to the gear lever end on the ball which is next to the springs<br />

and the short cable to the other ball.<br />

After the petrol tank has been fitted pass both cables under the tank (Note: Secure<br />

them to the water pipes with tie wraps). The long cable goes over the gear box and the<br />

short cable goes under. Fit the cables to the gear box bracket T2098 before fitting the<br />

bracket to gearbox.<br />

Finally clamp both the cables to the gear lever bracket T2099 using bracket T2096<br />

and using 2off MG Rover UYC 10006 clips.

Fitting Guide<br />

NEW SUSPENSION (Issued 10/03/05)<br />

Mount outside bracket T0325A using the 8 x ‘indents’ in the monocoque or using the<br />

pre-drilled holes from the previous bracket installation.<br />

*Note* Do not mount inside bracket T0324A until following further instructions.<br />

Assemble wishbones to both mounting brackets. In assembled state, offer up inside<br />

bracket T0324A to monocoque and mark and drill 8 x holes to suit. Ensure bracket is<br />

mounted at the same height as the previous installation or at the same height as the<br />

‘indents’ on the monocoque. Please see Fig 1.<br />

*Note* Do not use existing indents or previous holes on the ‘inside’ bracket mounting<br />

T0324A!<br />

Proceed with the rest of the installation as per <strong>manual</strong>.<br />


Do not use MGF handed bottom swivel joints on the new suspension set-up with 17<br />

inch alloy wheels!!<br />

These MGF handed bottom swivel joints are only suitable with 16 inch alloy wheels<br />

and are not provided as part of the new suspension set-up. However, these can be<br />

purchased separately if required.<br />

T0325A<br />

Outside<br />

Bracket<br />

Old Indents<br />

New holes to be drilled<br />

for Inside Bracket<br />


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