GTM Libra - Main build manual

SECTION TITLE 

1. Bonnet and Boot fixings 

2. Carpets and interior fittings 

3. Exterior Panels 

4. Engine 

5. Front and Rear suspension 

6. Battery, Heater, Radiator and Petrol tank 

7. Lights 

8. Windscreen and Wipers 

9. Electronics and wiring 

10. Pedal Box and Gear change 

11. Exhaust 

12. Setting up your GTM for the road 

13. Notes, Supplements and Templates 

© GTM CARS LTD. 0.1

BOOT AND BONNET FITTINGS 

BEAM END COVERS……………………………………………1.2 

BONNET AND FRONT SPLITTER MOULD…………………..1.2 

Assembly…………………………………………....1.2 

BONNET SPLITTER……………………………………………..1.3 

BOOT, BOOTLOCK AND HINGES……………………………1.4 

Assembly…………………………………………...1.4 

SPARE WHEEL MOULD AND SPARE WHEEL………………...1.6 

Assembly…………………………………………...1.6 


BEAM END COVERS 

Beam end covers are used at the rear of the sills to cover the mountings for 

the rearward facing wishbones. These covers are non structural. 

Beam End Covers Assembly 

Drill two clearance holes Ø7mm through the two ends of the rebated face of 

the beam end covers. Place the covers onto the ends of the sills and mark 

the position of the holes previously drilled. Drill out these marks with a 

tapping side drill for the self tapping screw. Attach the covers with two self 

tapping screws. 

BONNET AND FRONT SPLITTER MOULD 

The bonnet of the Libra pivots forward to allow access to the radiator fan, 

battery and spare wheel. When it is shut it is fixed in position by five 

fasteners. These fasteners hold the bonnet rigidly to the tub and prevent any 

movement. A front splitter mould is fitted to the front edge of the bonnet in 

front of the radiator. 

Bonnet and front splitter mould assembly 

This assembly should be undertaken with the radiator ducting T0107 attached 

to monocoque T0100. 

Drill two pilot holes from the inside of the radiator ducting T0107 in the 

positions shown in the bottom front corners of the ducting. From the outside 

of the radiator ducting now open these holes up with a hole saw to 

approximately 20mm. Use pivot holder T0609 as a template and work from 

the outside of the moulding. Drill two Ø6mm holes through the pivot holder 

into the moulding with the boss of the pivot holder through the previously 

drilled Ø20mm clearance hole. The pivot holder should be positioned with the 

base of the triangle parallel to the base of the radiator ducting and the 

hypotenuse facing the driver or passenger. Now open these four holes up to 

approximately Ø15mm with a hole saw. 

Working from the outside of the radiator ducting push two 6mm Nyloc nuts 

and washers through the retaining plate T0608 and attach pivot holder T0609. 

This assembly should now give a certain amount of adjustment up and down, 

forwards and backwards and can be nipped up prior to fitting the bonnet. 

Attach the three Spiro clip plates T0602 to the monocoque using 15mm long, 

No 8 self tapping screws. At this stage do not insert any packing washers 

between the Spiro clip plate and monocoque. Consult drawings No 19&21 


and attach the two sill mounting brackets T0613 to the top of the sills using 

four 15mm long No 8 self tapping screws. The positions for all these 

mountings are indicated on the monocoque by small indentations. Fit five 

fairing ‘U’ nuts T0615 to the brackets previously mounted to the monocoque. 

In the bonnet, mark and pilot drill two holes for the fitting of the pivot bushes 

T0611. Drill Ø13mm and fit the two bushes. 

The bonnet can now be placed over the radiator ducting and two pivot pins 

T0610 inserted from within the ducting. Insert two ‘R’ clips through the hole of 

the pivot holder T0609 and pin T0610. 

The position of the bonnet pins can now be adjusted by loosening the four 

Ø6mm Nyloc nuts on the inside of the radiator ducting. Adjust the bottom 

edge of the bonnet so that it is level with the bottom edge of the ducting. The 

forwards and backward position of the bonnet can be determined by where 

the bonnet fits on top of the sill. Once you are certain you have these in the 

correct relative positions tighten the four Ø6mm lock nuts from within the 

radiator ducting. 

Pilot drill the five holes necessary for the fairing fasteners T0600 and open out 

to Ø6mm clearance. The fairing fasteners can now be used and the position 

of the fairing mounting brackets finally adjusted. 

Bonnet splitter 

The front splitter mould is held in place by two bighead fasteners TO648 and 

two No 8 self tapping screws. Within the centre of the rebate for the splitter 

mould mark two hole positions 200mm from the centre of the car. 

Drill these holes to Ø6mm. Place the splitter mould in its position and mark 

through the Ø6mm holes already drilled onto the back face of the splitter 

mould. 

Bond two bighead fasteners TO648 to the inner face of the splitter mould in 

the positions you have just marked using body filler. 

Slot the Ø6mm holes drilled in the bonnet to enable the top hat studs to go 

through easily and bolt up on the rear face. 

Out of sight of the front of the car drill through and mount the bottom corner 

with No 8 self tapping screws. 


BOOT, BOOTLOCK AND HINGES 

The Libra has a good size boot located at the back of the car above the 

exhaust system. This boot has an external lid to allow easy access. The 

boot is lockable from the outside and has its own hinging and support stay 

mechanism. The boot is large enough to accept a full size set of golf clubs. 

Boot, Boot lock and Hinge assembly 

Refer to drawing No 20. The boot hinge mountings TO643 are mounted to 

the rear panel TO102 on the small rectangular faces in the rear quarters of the 

rear screen. The rear screen needs to be removed before the boot can be 

fitted. 

From the inside of the rear screen aperture mark the four Ø6mm clearance 

slots as indicated on the drawing. Use the boot hinge mounting bike back 

plate TO644 as an accurate guide to the centre positions. The slots will be 

covered by this component when the boot is finally assembled. 

Take the boot lid TO103 and turn it upside down on some suitable clean and 

protective surface. Mark the position of the four boot hinge location holes on 

the outside surface of the inner strengthening frames as shown on the 

diagram. Use boot hinge backing plate TO641 as an accurate guide to the 

centre position and slot the holes Ø6mm clearance to give yourself sufficient 

room to adjust the boot panel when assembled. Mount the two boot hinges to 

the strengthening frame using four Ø6mm socket cap screws and washers 

with the backing plates on the inside of the box. By loosening the screws the 

boot hinges should slide for adjustment against the outside face of the 

strengthening boxes. 

Referring to the diagram showing the view from within the boot mount the two 

boot hinge mountings TO643 to the boot hinges TO640 using the boot hinge 

pivot pins TO642. Note that the boot hinge mountings when attached to the 

rear panel make sure the pivot pins are located as close as possible to the top 

surface of the rear panel. The pivot pins require a small amount of grease to 

make them work satisfactorily. 

Fit the boot panel to the car. Holding the boot panel open, position the boot 

hinge mounting with one hand and attach the boot hinge mounting to the rear 

panel using the boot hinge mounting backing plate and four Ø6 x 25mm long 

socket cap screws and washers. You may require the assistance of another 

person to hold the boot open while undertaking this operation. 

The boot can now be opened and closed. It can also be adjusted to give an 

equal gap around the boot aperture and to line up the panels with the outside 

surfaces. Take your time doing this operation, as it is extremely important for 

the use of the car that the panel opens and closes without difficulty. 


Mount the boot stay slider TO645 to the vertical surface of the rear boot panel 

inside the boot in the position indicated on the view from within the boot. Use 

the slider as a template to locate the hole positions and drill Ø6mm clearance 

holes. Mount the slider to the boot panel using two 20 x Ø6mm socket cap 

screws, washers and Nyloc nuts. 

Fit the boot stay rod TO646 to the hole in the bottom corner of the boot hinge 

and to the boot stay slider using the spring fixings TO647. Do not grease this 

slider as in operation it is necessary to touch the slider to lock the boot in the 

open position. By lifting the boot slightly the slider should unlock 

automatically. 

Adjust the height of the boot stay slider to obtain the maximum boot lid 

opening without the boot lid top corners hitting the rear Perspex screen. 

Mount the boot latch TO652 to the outside surface of the boot panel under the 

position for the number plate in the position shown on the diagram. Use the 

latch to determine the position of the holes required. 

Drill or hole saw Ø20mm hole in the corner of the rebate in the boot lid for the 

boot latch as shown on the diagram. This is to allow the operating rod to pass 

through it towards the position. 

Mark the centre of the key position on the left-hand side on the boot lid within 

the recess on the mouldings. Hole saw an Ø25mm hole. File the two anti 

rotation notches in this hole. 

Due to the increased thickness of the glass fibre body compared to the steel 

body, the notches in the K Series Rover Metro lock have to be wider to enable 

the retaining clip to work satisfactorily. Mount the lock in a vice and carefully 

saw the door lock barrel to increase the width of the notches to approximately 

4-5 mm. The lock can now be assembled to the boot using the standard 

Rover Metro retaining spring. 

Mount the boot latch to the boot lid using two Ø6 x 20mm long socket cap 

screws, 4 large washers and 2 Nyloc nuts. Take approximately 200mm of the 

door rod wire TO523 and form a 10mm long right angle bit at one end. Feed 

the other end of the wire through the boot latch and through the hole in the 

moulding, towards the lock on the left-hand side of the boot. With the boot 

lock operating lever in the vertical position, mark the position on the wire and 

cut and form a right angle bend. Connect the rod to the lock and using the 

boot striker manually into the boot latch, check that the latch and team 

mechanism operates correctly and freely. 

Mount the boot striker TO653 to the rear panel as shown on the diagram 

using two Ø6 x 20mm long socket caps, screws, washers and Nyloc nuts. 


Fit the boot rubber seal TO655 to the boot aperture finishing the seal at a 

position approximately 200mm either side of the position of the boot striker. 

The boot can now be finally adjusted and fitted by adjusting the hinge 

positions and the position of the boot striker in the boot lid. Spend some time 

getting it to work perfectly so that it will not catch when in operation. Grease 

the latch sparingly. 

SPARE WHEEL MOULD AND SPARE WHEEL 

The Libra utilises a full size spare wheel mounted in the front compartment of 

the Libra. The wheel is mounted in the engine ducting above the battery. The 

area inside the spare wheel is used to hold the jack tools for the Libra and 

forms the battery box lid. 

Spare Wheel mould and Spare Wheel assembly 

There are two 6mm studs captivated into the top of the battery mounting and 

these studs coincide with indentations marked on the spare wheel mould. 

Drill out these indentations with a Ø6mm clearance hole and place the spare 

wheel mould over the top of the battery mounting. The spare wheel mould 

holds the battery in place and gives you space for a few tools. It is held in 

place by two Ø6mm thumb screws. 


CARPETS AND INTERIOR FITTINGS 

CARPETS........................................................................2.2 

Carpets assembly…………………………......2.2 

DASHBOARD COVER………………………………………2.3 

DASHBOARD TOP AND DEMISTER VENTS……………2.4 

PART TRIM PANELS OPTION ASSEMBLY……………..2.4 

SEATS AND RUNNERS…………………………………….2.6 

Assembly........................................................2.6 

SEAT BELTS…………………………………………………2.7 

SEPARATE INSTRUMENT OPTION……………………...2.8 

SOFT TRIM…………………………………………………..2.10 

HARD TRIM PANELS (STANDARD KIT)………………..2.11 

INSTRUMENT TRIM………………………………………...2.11 

TRIMMING HARD PANELS………………………………..2.12 


CARPETS 

The GTM Libra comes with a comprehensive carpet pack ready cut and 

bound. It comprises of seventeen individual carpet pieces. The seventeenth 

being in the boot. By referring to drawing No 30, it should be possible to 

identify the carpet patterns and fit them loosely into your car to see which 

areas are covered by the carpet set. At this stage do not glue the carpets in 

place as it is preferable to fit the soft trimming to the top of the monocoque or 

the optional hard trim panels before fitting the carpet set. This is to ensure 

any glue that falls from the top will not ruin the carpets. Once the carpet set 

has been loosely fitted it should be clear the area that has to be trimmed by 

the soft trim material. The inner doors and the dashboard are covered by 

hard trim panels provided within the standard kit. 

Carpets assembly 

All the carpets within the monocoque are glued directly to the glass fibre 

surface and therefore before you start fitting the carpets make sure that there 

are not any sharp areas protruding into the monocoque. Where holes are cut 

or trimmed to allow access into the monocoque for example seat belt 

mountings or rear suspension hangers, it is best if they are covered with either 

aluminium or hardboard glued over the hole to form a flat surface for the 

carpets to be glued to. Covering the holes also prevents any noise 

transmitting through into the monocoque. 

A convenient way of dealing with the seat belt mountings that are covered by 

the carpet is to captivate the seat belt mounts on the reverse surface by taking 

the seat belt mounting out and roughing up the mating surface with production 

paper. Put a small amount of body filler on it so that when you tighten up the 

seat belt mounting bolt it effectively captivates the seat belt mounting plates. 

This means that when you are fitting your carpets you only have to drill a hole 

in the carpets and then fit the seat belt mounts, preventing having to trim the 

carpets around the seat belt mountings. 

The carpets are glued directly to the glass fibre surface using a contact 

adhesive. Carefully follow the instructions on the container when fitting the 

carpets. 

Fit carpets one and two over the lower front wishbone mountings. It will be 

necessary to cut these (and fold flanges). Do not attempt to fit these 

immediately, dry fit the carpets over the area to be covered before putting any 

glue in place. Glue the carpets into position. 

Carpet pieces three and four run from the box sections previously covered 

and over the box section that comes down from the dashboard to the sills. 

Where the carpet pieces meet the sill, it is necessary to cut the carpet to allow 

it to be glued over the top of the sill section. This is to ensure that when 


carpet five and six go over it the sill cannot be seen at the join. Where the 

carpet piece comes up to the door shut face take the carpet to the face and 

along the shut where the sealing rubber fits over and slightly over the top. 

This ensures that when you fit the sealing rubber to the door shut face it does 

not push off the carpet. Trim the carpet at this point so that you do not get an 

excessive amount of carpet thus preventing the sealing rubber fitting correctly. 

Fit carpet piece ten over the tunnel. The front edge will have to be cut in two 

places to allow the front of the tunnel carpet piece to fold over the toe board. 

Holding the carpet piece in place, fold the carpet down the sides of the tunnel 

and mark where the carpet piece goes over the box section that holds the 

front of the seat runner. Now carefully cut two slits in the carpet so that the 

carpet folds over the top of the box section and down the sides. 

Cut the hole for the gear change using the hole in the tunnel as a template. 

Glue this carpet into place now but do not glue the flaps over the floor plan at 

this stage as it is more convenient to do this when you fit carpet pieces nine 

and twelve over the seat box sections. Fit carpet pieces five and six to the sill 

box sections. Dry fit the carpet pieces and glue the carpet to the top face of 

the sill. This will hold the carpet while you mark and cut it to fit. Cut the door 

seal piece in the same manner as you cut the seal on carpet pieces three and 

four. Cut the carpet where it fits over the seat box section in a similar manner 

to the tunnel section carpet piece. Now fully glue the carpet along the vertical 

face of the sill but do not glue the bottom flanges that go onto the floor. Fit 

carpet pieces nine and twelve over the seat box sections on top of the flanges 

that are formed over the seat box section down the small vertical faces and 

under the flanges formed on the floor section. You can now fully glue the 

flanges from the door sills and the tunnel on to the floor. 

Fit carpet piece eight over the petrol tank moulding and trim to suit. Note here 

that the handbrake cover T0126 will neaten up the carpet round that area and 

that on the hard trim option the parcel shelf front edge will neaten up the top 

edge of this carpet. 

Fit carpet piece eleven to the front toe plate. 

Now finally glue in carpet pieces thirteen, fourteen, fifteen and sixteen in 

place. 

DASHBOARD COVER 

The dashboard cover mounts to the top of the dashboard using black flanged 

self-tapping screws No 8 20mm long. Drill out the holes in the dashboard 

cover T0118 with an Ø5mm drill. Place the dashboard cover on top of the 

dashboard and drill through the previously drilled holes with an Ø3.5mm drill. 

The dashboard cover can now be attached to the dashboard using No 8 self 

tapping screws. Check all the clearances and fits are to your satisfaction and 

then the panel is ready to be removed and trimmed. 


DASHBOARD TOP AND DEMISTER VENTS 

The dashboard top and demister vent assembly is the same for the Rover 

Metro standard instrument pack and the optional individual instrument pack. 

The dashboard top should be the last component fitted to the interior of the 

car. This assumes the instruments, fresh air vents and the plenum chamber 

are all in place. Prepare the dashboard top mould by cutting 3 holes, Ø3" 

into the recess provided and push through the fresh air vents T0696. The 

fresh air tubes and the plastic ‘Y’ piece should be assembled and fitted to the 

heater as shown in the drawing. The fresh air pipes need to be fed into 

roughly the right position to locate to the base of the air vents when the 

dashboard top is fitted. Once the pipes are in position, the dashboard top with 

air vents should be placed over the top of the instruments and located into 

position. By lifting the front edge of the dashboard top you should be able to 

reach through and locate the tubes into the base of the air vents. The 

dashboard top can then be pushed into place and screwed securely through 

the locators marked in the mould. 

PART TRIM PANELS OPTION 

The hard trim panel option kit provides the builder with the opportunity of hard 

trimming all those panels that in the standard kit are soft trimmed by the direct 

application of trim material to the inner surface of the monocoque. The hard 

trim panels are made so that they can be trimmed away from the car and then 

screwed to the inner face of the monocoque. All the trim panels are secured 

in position by No 8 self tapping screws and these are provided within the hard 

trim pack option in the fastener pack T1701. The hard trim panels must be 

fitted to the car and adjusted to get the correct gaps prior to any trim material 

glued to them. Time spent in getting the clearances and fits right will be well 

rewarded once the trim material is glued to the trim panels. 

Start by fitting the drivers and passengers side screen pillars to the 

monocoque. The edge that goes round the front screen goes round the 

monocoque and up to the glass when fitted. The top corners of the screen 

where the trim panel comes around to meet the roof panel will have to be 

carefully trimmed back to get a flush fit with the roof panel. Do not remove too 

much of the rebate where the screen glues in. Drill the screen pillar panel 

screw holes with an Ø5mm clearance drill. Holding the panels in the position 

required, drill through the Ø5mm hole with an Ø3.5mm drill into the 

monocoque. A selection of screws are included within the fastener pack to 

enable you to select the correct length of screw required for the particular 

application. Now screw the panel through the composite roll cage to hold in 

the desired position. Note that it is not designed so that you tighten up the 

screws fully to pull the panel home against the roll cage but that you tighten 

the screws to a point where the inner panel is held securely and in the right 


place. The desired position will be easily seen once you tighten up the panel. 

It is a good idea at this stage to fit the dash top into position and make any 

adjustments you require to the clearances between the screen pillars and the 

dash top to equalise the gap. Remember that trim material is going to fit 

around the dash top and onto the screen pillars and therefore a clearance is 

essential. A clearance in the order of Ø3mm is ideal. 

With the screen pillars left in place, fit the roof section. The roof section fits in 

a similar manner to the screen pillars and is attached through the self tapping 

screws into the monocoque. Do not over tighten the turn knobs as they are 

not meant to pull the roof section tight against the monocoque. 

Leaving the roof panel in place, hold up the rear window surround. The rear 

window surround is designed so that the panel fits up flush against the rear 

window when fitted. It will be necessary to trim the rebate which holds the 

rear window to allow the roof panel to fit through the aperture. Do not over 

trim the aperture as a certain amount of rebate is required to glue the rear 

screen in place. 

Holding the rear panel in place, mark the position of the bottom securing 

screws through the panel onto the rear face of the monocoque. Cut a piece of 

half inch ply or similar wood and secure this to the rear panel with body filler. 

This ply is to enable you to screw through and secure the rear window 

surround to the monocoque. It also provides a spacer so that sound proofing 

material can be glued to the monocoque prior to fitting the rear window 

surround. 

With the rear window surround in place, fit the B post side panels to the car. 

The side panels have to be packed out from the monocoque at the rear 

quarters so that they meet up with the rear window surround panel. Pack out 

with any suitable wood until you get a nice clearance between the rear 

window surround and the side panel. The wood can be attached to the 

monocoque with body filler and of course not seen once the trim panels are in 

place. Body filler a suitable piece of wood into the top of the B posts to accept 

the fixing screws at the top of the trim panel. Note these fixing plates do not 

have to be flush with the panel, purely sufficient thickness to allow the 

attaching screws to have sufficient threads in them to hold the side panel. 

Where the seat belt mounting has to go through the side panels drill a small 

Ø10mm hole to enable you to see the exact position of the seat belt mounting 

through the hole. Open out this hole to the correct position to approximately 

Ø25mm. Go carefully here as it is easy to get the hole in the wrong place. 

Take the drivers side B post panel off and fit the petrol neck cover over the 

petrol neck. Replace the driver’s side B post panel and adjust the petrol neck 

cover to get the appropriate gaps. Secure the petrol neck cover panel to the 

monocoque drilling through the top panel of the rear box section. 

Once you are satisfied with all the clips remove the hard trim panel and these 

are now ready to be trimmed with your chosen material. 


SEATS AND RUNNERS 

The Libra utilises the two front seats and runners from a K Series Rover 

Metro. A beam runs across the car at an appropriate point between the sill 

and the tunnel on both sides, on which the front edge of the seat runners 

mount. The rear edge of the seat runner mounts directly through the 

strengthened floor of the rear. Most after market seats will fit as there is 

considerable room in the Libra. GTM also supplies alternative accessory 

seats. 

Seats and Runners assembly. 

Whichever seat you choose to use, the runners at the front need to be 

secured into the box section that runs across the car from the outside sill to 

the tunnel and the rear secured to the floor behind this section. When 

securing the front of the runners to the box section, drill through the top of the 

box section and straight through the bottom. Open out the bottom hole with a 

Ø25mm hole saw. Bolt up the runner to the top of the box section and not 

both surfaces. The floor of the Libra is strengthened to take the weight of the 

seat runners but it is a good idea to spread the load as far as possible. 

When fitting, special GTM seat mounts are available from the factory to 

enable you to put the seat at any angle and height you should desire. These 

special mounts run across the floor so as to strengthen the mounting. 


SEAT BELTS 

The Libra utilises the front seat belts from a K Series Rover Metro. The belts 

mount to special reinforced areas within the monocoque. 

Seat belts assembly 

The front seat belts of the K Series Rover Metro are handed. It is therefore 

important that you use the driver’s side out of the Metro on the driver’s side of 

the Libra. 

It is easy to tell which side is which by starting the assembly from the outside 

bottom mounting. 

The mounting is made on the K Series Rover with a loop of the seat belt that 

slides along a bar, which is attached to the car. 

This bar is retained on the Libra and fits as shown in drawing No 28. 

Start by drilling the Ø13mm clearance hole in which the joggle part of the bar 

will fit. Due to the angles involved it is easiest to put a small pilot drill through 

the position first and then follow through with a Ø3mm drill. A certain amount 

of filing will be necessary to enable the bar to fit through the sill. Fit the bar 

through the sill and using the bar as a template, drill the front hole Ø25mm 

clearance, 50mm from the floor of the car. 

Hole saw approximately an Ø60mm hole in the sill to enable you to fit the seat 

belt mounting plate T0630 behind the sill to locate the seat belt rod. Repeat 

the procedure for the other side of the car. 

Now fit the inertia reels to the bottom corners of the rear box in the position 

shown on the diagram. Before fitting the inertia reels it is necessary to drill out 

the threads from the inertia reel fixings to a clearance hole to enable the 

inertia reel to be fitted from the inside of the car. Be extremely careful when 

drilling out the threads of the inertia reel mountings as it is very easy for the 

drill to snatch. Mount the inertia reel with a seat belt mounting plate T0630 

behind the back box. Access is obtained through the hole already cut in the 

back box. Repeat the operation for the other side. 

On the standard Rover Metro the center lower positions of the seat belt 

mountings are joined onto one bracket. On the Libra this bracket is not used 

and it is necessary to remove the separate part of the mounting from the 

bracket by angle grinding or filing the outside face of the rivet. 

The brackets are attached in the position shown on the drawing with a special 

bush T0631 between the bracket and the tunnel. Drill a clearance hole in the 

position shown on the drawing and working with an assistant hold the seat 

belt mounting bracket T0630 on the inside of the tunnel tightening the bolt 

from the inside of the car. 

The top seat belt mounting is mounted as in the K Series Rover Metro to the 

bush already located in the monocoque in the side quarter panel. Use the 

special bush T0632 to space the standard mounting away from the 

monocoque so that it protrudes through the trim panel. You need a special 

bolt 50mm long and 7/16 UNF in this position and not the standard top 

mounting bolt. 


SEPARATE INSTRUMENT OPTION 

In standard form the Libra utilises the standard K Series Rover Metro 

instrument pack and switchgear for the heater and rear fog light switch. When 

using the separate instrument option it is necessary to use special cables to 

operate the heater unit and switches for the heater fan and rear fog light. The 

separate instruments themselves have been specially designed for the Libra 

and fit to a binnacle designed for the purpose. The standard Rover Metro K 

Series dashboard wiring loom is replaced in its entirety with a special loom 

manufactured by GTM for the instrument option. 

All of the components necessary to fit the instrument option are provided in 

the pack by GTM Cars Ltd. Listed below are all the components provided 

within the instrument option kit. 

T1710 Moulding separate instrument binnacle. 

T1711 Moulding separate instrument – top. 

T1712 Separate instruments and warning lights. 

T1713 Switch – rear fog. 

T1714 Switch – cooling fan. 

T1715 Bezel plates - instruments. 

T1717 Bezel plates – switches. 

T1718 Bezel plates – heater control 

T1721 Heater control sliders. 

T1722 Wiring loom – separate instruments. 

T1723 Electronic Speedo sender. 

T1724 Fastener pack – separate instruments. 

Consult drawing No 22. Start the assembly by fitting the separate instruments 

and warning lights T1712 into the instrument binnacle moulding T1710. The 

separate instrument binnacle has marks on it to indicate the position of the 

instruments. Cut out these holes using any suitable method. Hold the bezel 

plate instruments T1715 up against the instrument binnacle and using the 

bezel as a template mark and cut out any mismatches in the holes. 

Put the two end instruments in as locators and mark up the positions on the 

instrument binnacle for the four warning lights. Measure the diameter 

required for the warning lights from the lights provided and drill out the 

warning light holes in the instrument binnacle. It may be necessary to open 

out the warning light holes in the bezel plate for the instruments depending on 

which warning lights have been provided within the kit. 

All the instruments and warning lights can now be mounted through the bezel 

plate and through the binnacle and secured using the clamps provided. 

Fix the switch bezel plate T1717 to the dashboard using four No 8 Posi drive 

self tapping screws drilling the dashboard first with a Ø3.5mm drill. Mark the 

two right hand squares with a scriber onto the dashboard for the holes to take 

the heater fan and rear fog light switches. 

Remove the bezel plate and cut out the squares. By cutting out slightly larger 

than the scribe square you will find that the switches latch better to the bezel 

plate. Remount the bezel plate to the dashboard with the four screws. 

The fog light switch T1713 can now be pushed in to the far right hole and the 


cooling fan switch T1714 placed in the other hole. 

Cut a hole in the driver’s door pillar as shown in the drawing at the end of this 

manual to accept bezel plate T1715. Keep this hole to a minimum so as not 

to reduce the strength of the box section. Drill these holes using a Ø3.5mm 

drill and attach the plate using 6 black No 8 posi drive screws 12mm long. 

Following the drawing cut the hole on the top of the dashboard to allow the 

cables to run through from the box section into the dashboard. 

Remove the heater control bezel plate from the box section and fit the heater 

control sliders T1721 to the bezel plate using 2 black No 8 posi drive 12mm 

long self tapping screws. It is difficult to machine bend the 45 degree bend at 

the bottom of the bezel plate and therefore it may be necessary to sharpen 

this bend in a vice so that you get a good fit with the sliders. Once the sliders 

are fitted remove any of the bottom tails that protrude over the edge of the 

bezel plate in order to neaten the assembly. 

The bezel plate can now be fitted to the box section with the cable coming up 

through the hole previously trimmed at the bottom of the dashboard. 

Consult drawing No 23 and drill an Ø20mm hole in the front corner of the 

heater box in the dashboard to allow the cables to run back through under the 

dashboard and connect to the heater mixer. 

By fitting the heater unit under the dashboard it will be clear where exactly to 

drill this hole to allow the cable to run through without bending it excessively. 

The rearward flap on the heater unit made from steel can be connected up to 

the cable without any modification. 

The front plastic flap assembly requires an Ø3mm hole to be drilled in it as on 

the drawing close to the rib and slot. By drilling this hole it is possible to fit the 

standard cable end through the hole to operate the mechanism. 

Both the control cables can be conveniently attached to the heater mixer unit 

using tie wraps. Position the cables so that they work the flaps correctly and 

then tie wrap the cables to the standard mounts. 

Fit everything up permanently and looping the cables over the instrument 

pack check that everything works freely and closes and shuts the appropriate 

flaps. 

Mount electronic Speedo sender T1734 to the normal output from the gearbox 

at the rear of your car. On early models of the 1400cc it may be necessary to 

leave on the short Speedo cable and then attach the electronic Speedo 

sender to the end of that cable. Take the electric wire that replaces the 

Speedo cable and attach to the gearbox end and run over the petrol tank 

under the car and through into the dashboard area as the standard Speedo 

cable would run. Tie wrap the Speedo cable T0702 to any appropriate cable 

or pipe under the tunnel making sure that the gear change is not going to foul 

it. Finally fit in the GTM separate instrument wiring loom T1722 referring to 

the drawing at the end of the manual. This wiring loom totally replaces the 

standard Rover Metro K Series dashboard wiring loom. The Rover K Series 

wiring loom should be removed completely and discarded. Start by plugging 

the wiring loom into the fusebox on the body K Series wiring loom. Attach the 

GTM electronic Speedo wiring loom to the separate instrument wiring loom. 

The wiring loom now runs under the instruments to the switches and then 

across the top of the instruments to the warning lights and gauges. By 

following the diagram it should be relatively easy to plug in all the electrical 


connectors. 

By wiring the fan switch as shown on the left-hand side of the drawing it will 

run the fan at medium speed when switched on. The other two colours can 

be used if you desire high speed or low speed. Provided within the wiring 

loom are two extra illumination wires in case you should fit any extra switches. 

The new temperature gauge and the oil pressure gauge provided within the 

separate instrument pack require different senders to be fitted at the engine 

end. These senders are provided within the separate instrument and warning 

light pack T1712. The temperature sender purely replaces the standard 

temperature sender on the K Series engine and it is necessary to replace the 

standard electrical connector with a female spade connector, which slips over 

the top of the end of the temperature sender provided. 

The oil pressure sender replaces the standard oil pressure light switch, which 

is positioned adjacent to the oil filter. Remove the standard sender switch and 

replace it with the sender provided within the instrument pack. Here again it 

will be necessary to remove the standard electrical connector and replace it 

with a spade connector. The spade connector should be attached to the M 

terminal of the sender unit. 

SOFT TRIMMING 

The soft trim material provided within the standard kit is relatively forgiving 

and can be glued directly to the inner surface of the monocoque once it has 

been sanded and ‘cleaned up’. When soft trimming the upper part of the 

monocoque it is essential that the trim is fitted prior to bonding in the front and 

rear screens. The trim material is wrapped round the aperture and glued to 

the bonding face of the screens. In a similar way to the screen apertures the 

soft trim material is trimmed around the door apertures and then glued on the 

face where the seal fits. Start by covering the area in the top of the car and 

running approximately 50mm down the screen pillars and down to level with 

the top of the rear window. This can be all covered with one piece of material 

glued to the internal surface of the glass fibre. Now trim down the screen 

pillars by folding the top join where it goes over the already fitted trim on the 

top part of the car and down to below the dashboard top area. This can be 

trimmed in a similar manner to the roof, gluing the trim material to the inside 

surface of the glass fibre and then around the screen aperture and the door 

shut face. 

The quarter panels at the back of the car can be trimmed in a similar manner 

to the front screen pillars going up to the back bulkhead of the car and round 

by approximately 25mm. 

Cut a section of the soundproofing the size of the rear bulkhead and around 

the rear screen so that it covers the areas not covered by the soft trims 

material that you have glued to the monocoque. Now trim this soundproofing 

material with the soft trim material taking it round the edges. Where the rear 

window fits over the rear window aperture, glue it to the rebate. 


HARD TRIM PANELS (STANDARD KIT) 

Door trim panels assembly 

Place the completed door assembly onto a flat surface suitably covered so 

that you do not scratch the outside faces. Take door handle inner T0123/4 

and drill out the hole marked for the wiper handle to come through. Drill a 

Ø35mm hole. Rest the door handle on top of the door inner frame and on top 

of that, rest the door inners T0116/7. 

Position the door handle onto the inner frame using the door inner as a guide 

to get the correct position for the door handle. It may be necessary to file the 

door winder hole to obtain the correct position for the door inner handle. Once 

the correct position has been found with an equal gap between the door inner 

and the door handle attach the door handle to the door inner frame using six 

No 8 posi drive 10mm long self tapping screws. The inner door handle covers 

up one of the adjusting nuts for the small adjusting channel for the wider 

mechanism. Drill out the inner door handle approximately Ø25mm to allow 

access to this nut. 

Attach one end of door pull wire T0516 to the door latch using door pull 

connector T0524. This can be attached by looping the wire through the door 

latch and then joining it together with the door pull connector. Place the door 

pull wire over the top of the door handle in the position shown on the drawing 

and mark the positions of the holes required to allow the door pull wire to pass 

through the door handle and act as the operating wire for the latch. Drill 

suitable clearance holes in the door handle and pass the wire through the 

door handle and attach at the other side with door pull connector T0524. 

Using a suitable tool i.e. a screwdriver, operate the latch at the end of the door 

and open the door with the door pull to obtain the correct tension on the door 

pull wire. The door inner panel T0116/7 can now be attached to the door 

outer shell. Drill out the holes in the inner panel with a Ø5mm drill. Place the 

panel over the door in the correct position and drill through the inner panel to 

the door and the door handle inner with a Ø3.5mm drill. Attach the door inner 

panel to the door and the door handle using No 8 self-tapping screws. 

Where the self-tapping screws go through the door Spiro clips have been 

provided to provide extra security for the inner panel. 

INSTRUMENT TRIM 

The trim within the Libra can be undertaken in three ways. 

Firstly - You can use the standard Rover Metro K Series instrument binnacle 

complete with its switches and heater control gear or secondly you can 

choose to use separate instruments designed especially by GTM for the Libra 

with special switches and heater control levers. 

The standard kit comes complete with hard trim panels for the doors and the 

handbrake cover panel in the rear of the car. 

A set of carpets are provided within the standard kit to totally cover the lower 


half of the car. In the standard kit headlining type material is provided to 

enable the builder to cover the remaining panels by directly applying the 

headlining material to the interior of the glass fibre monocoque. 

Finally - An additional kit is available from GTM to completely hard trim this 

area of the car with separate panels that can be trimmed prior to fitting to the 

car. 

Sufficient soundproofing material is provided within the kit to cover those 

areas where it is necessary. 

TRIMMING HARD PANELS 

All the hard panels that require trimming on the Libra whether they be part of 

the standard kit or the optional hard trim panels are covered in the same 

manner. 

Use a fine grit (80 production paper) round all the edges of the panels to 

remove any sharp edges and to give a slight radius at the edges for the trim 

material to fold round. All the panels need to be washed thoroughly with hot 

water and washing up liquid to remove the wax and release agent which may 

still be on the panels after the moulding process. Failure to do this will mean 

that the glue will not adhere properly and the trim material will eventually 

come loose from the panels. Now sand all the top surfaces of the trim panels 

lightly with production paper to form a good key for the glue. The panels 

should now either be washed and allowed to dry completely or vacuumed 

clean. 

Trimming panels with leather cloth type materials does take some skill and it 

is best to start with a small panel first to familiarise yourself with the technique. 

Take a small moulding and cut a piece of your trim material larger than the 

moulding so that it can be folded over the edges but not so large that it is 

difficult to fit onto the panel. Using a contact adhesive cover both the panel 

and the material completely. When the glue is touch dry place the trim 

material onto the centre of the panel and working outwards smooth the 

material onto the panel and press down to glue firmly to the panel. 

Where there are difficult shapes on the panel the addition of heat to the 

material can help greatly. The use of a hairdryer can be very useful in 

generating a little extra heat in difficult conditions. 

Once the outside surface of the panel is covered and glued to your 

satisfaction, turn the panel over and cut the trim material to within 

approximately 20mm from the edge of the moulding. This material will be 

glued to the underside of the moulding to make the finished panel. At the 

corners and as you work round each panel it will be necessary to cut ‘V’s into 

this 20mm band to enable the material to be folded round without undo 

wrinkling. Practice will tell you the amount of these required and the distance 

they must be from the edge of the moulding but start by approximately 4mm 

from the edge of the moulding. Now glue the edge of the trim material and a 

band at least 20mm wide on the reverse face of the moulding. Dry fold the 

20mm band over and glue to the underside of the moulding. 

It is unlikely that your first attempt will be satisfactory and therefore remove 

the covering material from the moulding and try again. 

If after many attempts the results you are getting are not satisfactory then a 


visit to your local trimmer is necessary. 

Should you be unable to find a trimmer to do the job for you then do contact 

GTM Cars Ltd and we would only be to pleased to pass you on to a suitable 

trimmer. 

The trim panels can then be re-fitted to your car. 

EXTERIOR PANELS 

DOORS……………………………………………………………3.2 

Assembly………………………………………………..3.2 

ROOF PANEL……………………………………………………3.8 

Assembly……………………………………………3.8 


DOORS 

The Libra uses two glass fibre doors with steel inner frames to support the 

glass and winding mechanism. These frames bolt directly to the doors via four 

Allen bolts, which can be seen from inside the car. The doors are hinged on 

their front edge using two top hat nylon bushes. These bushes fit directly into 

the glass fibre moulding. The bottom pivot sits directly on the body sill and is 

adjustable in all directions without removing the door. The top pivot bolts 

directly to the door upright and is adjustable in a similar manner to the bottom 

pivot. In this way the door can be fitted and then adjusted without removing 

any interior trim to obtain the best fit. The Libra utilises the standard Rover 

Metro latch on the rear face of the door. This latch is operated by a purpose 

designed outside door button and internal door pull. The door is prevented 

from opening too wide by purpose designed door straps fitted between the 

door and the monocoque. The door winding mechanism is the standard K 

Series Rover Metro fitted without modification and using its own glass 

channel. The door glass is a special glass provided in the kit. 

Doors Assembly 

Assemble the Rover Metro winding regulator channel to the bottom of the 

window glass T1001/2. The channel should be fitted to the bottom of the 

glass as indicated on the assembly drawing No 16. 

Remove the rubber insulator from the centre of the Metro window channel. 

Glue the rubber insulator onto the bottom of the Libra window glass in the 

position shown on the assembly drawing. Any contact adhesive is suitable for 

this task. Place the Libra window glass onto a clean tabletop with the bottom 

edge slightly protruding over the edge of the table. Starting from one end 

gently force the window regulator channel over the rubber and work along 

until the complete channel is fitted snugly up to the rubber glued to the bottom 

of the glass. It is important that the channel fits tightly up to the rubber on the 

bottom edge for the correct operation of the regulator. 

Inner Door Frame 

Take the door inner frame T0500/1 and cut suitable length of window channel 

rubber T0518 to fit into the vertical channels on each side of the frame that the 

window glass runs up and down. Glue the rubber channel into the vertical 

channels in the door inner frames using a suitable contact adhesive. 

Fit the door window glass complete with its bottom channel into the door inner 

frame and manually move the glass up and down the channel making sure 

that the glass moves freely, a small amount of petroleum jelly can help the 


smooth operation of the glass within the rubber channel. 

Remove the window glass from the door inner frame and place aside. Mount 

the K Series Metro window regulator to the door inner frame in the position as 

shown on the assembly drawing using two Ø6 x 15mm long socket cap 

screws and washers. 

Mount the short (120mm long) channel to the inner doorframe in the position 

shown on the assembly drawing using the standard Rover Metro 5mm nuts. 

Fit the door regulator top stop T0521 to the door regulator using a Ø6 x 18mm 

long socket cap head screw washer and Nyloc nut. 

Fit a winding handle to the regulator and check that the regulator winds up 

and down satisfactory without jamming. 

Wind the regulator to a position so that the operating legs are just below the 

bottom arm of the inner door frame and remove the regulator by unscrewing 

its Ø6mm retaining bolt. 

Slide the door glass into the inner door frame to a position where the channel 

approximates to the position of the operating arms prior to removing the 

regulator. Now slide the operating arms of the regulator on to the bottom 

channel attached to the glass from the rear end of the door at the same time 

ensuring that the small wheel of the regulator arm fits into the small channel 

already attached to the door inner frame. Position the regulator so that the 

two Ø6mm bolts can be replaced and mount the regulator. 

The window glass should now wind up and down the door in the frame without 

jamming. 

Do not at this stage attempt to adjust the position of the small 120mm channel 

or the position of the eccentric top stop. This will be adjusted once the frame 

is assembled into the door. 

Locks and Hinges Assembly 

Put aside the two inner frame regulators and glass and assemble the locks 

and hinges into the glass fibre door shells. 

Using the full scale template included in the assembly manual mark the inside 

recessed shut face of the door where the Rover Metro latch will fit. Using the 

other template follow on from the previously marked hole for the striker onto 

the inside face of the door using the template provided in the assembly 

manual. Spot and drill the three Ø6mm clearance holes in the door face. 

Using a jigsaw or by chain drilling, cut out the aperture for the striker. Using 

the Rover Metro door latch as a guide clean up the hole to allow the latch to fit 

snugly. Do this work carefully, as it will be seen on the completed car. 

Radius the edges to obtain a neat appearance. The door latch can now be 

mounted to the door shell using three Ø6mm button socket screws 20mm 

long with washers. 

Cut a Ø25mm hole in the centre of the recess for the external door key. This 

hole can either be cut with a hole saw or by chain drilling and filing. File the 

two anti rotation notches in this hole. 

Due to the increased thickness of the glass fibre body compared to a steel 

body shell the notches in the K Series Rover Metro door lock have to be wider 


to enable the retaining clip to work satisfactorily. Mount the door lock in a vice 

and carefully saw the door lock barrel to increase the width of the notches to 

approximately 4/5 mm. The door lock can now be assembled to the door shell 

using the standard Rover Metro spring retainer. 

Using the indentations of the outer side door shell, pilot the two Ø5mm 

clearance holes required for the door handle and open out to Ø5mm 

clearance. Using the door handle T0514 as a template, mark and drill a hole 

approximately Ø28 mm to enable the door button to come through the outer 

shell. The door handle T0514 and the door handle mechanism T0511/2 can 

now be mounted to the door shell using two Ø5mm Nyloc nuts and washers. 

Make sure that the door handle mechanism fits flush against the internal glass 

fibre face of the door and if necessary clean the face up using production 

paper. 

Assemble the door button T0515 through the door button carrier T0513 using 

a Ø6mm socket cap head screw 10mm long and a washer. The carrier can 

now be mounted to the door handle mechanism and mounted to the door 

using a Ø2mm split pin 35mm long. Do not turn the ends of the split pin at this 

stage, as it will have to be removed in the assembly of the door rods. Check 

at this stage that the door button swings in and out of the door freely without 

binding. 

Hold the door striker T0520 and move it in and out of the latch assembled to 

the door and familiarise yourself with the working of the latch. 

Take a 260mm long piece of the door rod wire T0523 and form a joggle at one 

end to fit in the pawl that operates the door lock mechanism in the door latch. 

Remove the three securing bolts from the door latch and remove it from the 

door. Fit this joggle into the door lock pawl with the wire coming up through 

the pawl away from the outer shell of the door. Refit the latch to the door. 

Place the rod over the top of the outside key mechanism and mark the 

position of the hole in the plastic lever arm of the door key mechanism. Again 

remove the door latch mechanism from the door, remove the door rod and 

form a right angle at the end as previously marked approximately 15mm long. 

Reassemble and make sure everything works satisfactorily using a key from 

the outside of the door and manually inserting the door striker. 

Take a 280mm long piece of the door rod wire T0523 and form a joggle in the 

end to fit into the pawl that operates the door latch. Remove the door latch 

and fit this joggle into the pawl in a similar manner to the lock rod with the wire 

coming up away from the outside face of the door. Reassemble the latch into 

the door and very carefully mark the position of the required joggle that the 

door button holder T0513. Make sure that the door button is in its most 

outside point when you mark this position. Remove the wire and form another 

joggle at right angles to the previous joggle to fit through the door button 

carrier T0513. 


Remove the door button carrier T0513 from the door handle mechanism 

T0511 by removing the 2mm split pin and fit the joggle through the hole 

provided. Refit the door button carrier to the door handle mechanism and 

check that everything works effectively. It is extremely important that there is 

no excessive play in the mechanism and it is worth at this stage taking some 

time to ensure the correct operation. When completely satisfied spray out the 

ends of the split pin. The door latch and the door lock should now work 

satisfactorily. Provision has been made for a strip spring to be used between 

the door button carrier and the door lock mechanism that in practise has been 

found to be unnecessary. 

Fitting the Frame 

Fit the door frame complete with glass to the door. Mark the centre of the four 

recessed inner frame mounting points and pilot drill. Open out with a Ø6mm 

clearance drill. It is necessary to extend the outer glass line on the door shells 

to enable the glass to wind up and down. A split line on the mould indicates 

the line of the outer glass. This shows up as a raised line on the shell of the 

door. Extend the rear line to within 3mm of the end of the door and form a slot 

for the glass to wind up through, 10mm wide. Do this work very carefully as it 

shows on the exterior of the car. Where the glass runs up into the small 

triangular panel at the front of door on which the wing mirror mounts, it is 

necessary to trim the moulding in a similar manner to the rear edge of the 

door. Use the mould line as a guide and open up the slot to 10mm, as at the 

rear. The glass must run as far up into the triangular panel as possible to 

minimise the difficult condition with the door seals when shut on the car. As 

with the rear, do this work carefully as it will be seen when the car is complete. 

Prior to fitting the door glass weather seal T0517, it is advisable to fit the door 

inner frame complete with glass to the door using the 6mm stainless steel 

counter sunk screws and washers. Check that the window winds up and 

down freely and that the glass has a clearance between the outer door and 

the outer face of the glass particularly where the weather seal will fit. 

Adjustment can be made to the fitting of the glass by inserting washers 

between the doorframe and the door outer skin. Once this seems 

satisfactory, remove the frame. 

Trim the door glass weather seal T0517 so that it is the correct length from the 

back face of the door to the small triangular wing mirror panel. Clean the 

inner face of the door shell and lightly sand the inner face on which the door 

weather seal is to be glued. Glue the door glass weather seal T0517 to the 

door shell T0104/5 using “super glue”. 

Door Mirror Assembly 

The two mounting storks approximately Ø10.5mm have to be shortened on the 

standard Rover K Series mirror to a length of approximately 13mm from the 

outside inner face of the mounting flange. These can be easily cut with a 

junior hacksaw. Open out the inner hole in these mounting tubes from 5.2mm 

to a depth of 15mm. Tap these holes, Ø6mm metric fine using a standard 

metal tap. Check the thread by screwing in a standard Ø6mm bolt. 


The arm that normally projects into the car so the door mirror can be adjusted 

from inside the Metro has to be removed using a hack saw at a point 

approximately 10mm from the spring retaining washer. The wing mirrors can 

not be adjusted from inside the Libra. 

Refer to drawing No 17. Where the wing mirror mounts to the door outer 

panel mark the centre of the boss and pilot with a small drill. With a Ø30mm 

hole saw, drill out the central part of the mirror boss. Two Ø10.5mm holes 

now have to be drilled on approximately Ø41mm centres to enable the 

mounting tubes to come through the outer skin of the door moulding. When 

drilled these holes just break into the surface of the Ø30mm hole previously 

hole sawed. The wing mirror can now be positioned on the door with the two 

mounting bosses projecting through the door and being accessible from the 

inside of the panel. It may be necessary to slightly adjust the Ø10.5mm 

clearance holes depending on the exact size of your particular moulding. 

Place one of the door mirror mounting sleeves T0522 over one of the 

mounting boss tubes projecting into the car and with a 15mm long set bolt and 

large 6mm washer, secure the wing mirror. The other door mirror mounting 

sleeve can now be fitted over the other tube and secured in a similar manner. 

Tighten both bolts equally to secure the mirror to the door shell. 

The door inner frame complete with its glass can now be reassembled to the 

door shell using the four stainless steel 6mm screws and special washers. 

Attaching the Door to the Monocoque 

Refer to drawing No 16. Pilot drill the centre of the indent on the front of the 

doors where the door hinge bushes T0510 fit. Open out these holes to 

Ø13mm. Press fit the two door hinges bushes T0510 into the door outer shell 

and tap home with a suitable soft mallet. 

Using door hinge bottom T0512/3 as a guide, locate the two indents on top of 

the sill which correspond to the two larger holes in the door hinge bottom 

plate. Spot these two centres with a pilot drill. Open out these two holes to 

Ø6mm clearance. Bolt the door hinge bottom T502/3 to the doorsill through 

the doorsill to door hinge bottom spreader T0504 using two Ø6 x 25mm long 

socket screws and large 20mm washers. The door hinge bottom should now 

be adjustable in all directions around the 6mm bolts by loosening the screws. 

Using door hinge top pivot plate T0508 as a guide, find the corresponding 

three indents in the vertical part of the door aperture in the monocoque and 

spot the holes. Open out these holes to Ø6mm clearance. Bolt T0508 to the 

vertical face using three countersunk socket screws 25mm long washers and 

Nyloc nuts. Mount the door hinge top pivot T0506 to the top of the door hinge 

plate T0508 with door hinge top spreader T0509 on top using two Ø6 x 12mm 

long socket cap head screws and washers. By slackening the screws, the top 

pivot should now move around freely about the Ø6mm screws. Remove the 


door top pivot. Place the door onto the bottom pivot and into the aperture. 

Screw on the door top pivot as before. Adjust the top and bottom pivots to 

obtain a suitable fit on the door. The height of the door at the door hinge end 

can be adjusted by placing standard 10mm washers on top of the bottom door 

pivot. 

With the door glass wound down into the door adjust the two hinges so that 

the outside shape of the door follows through onto the sill line and rear face of 

the door. Use the small air scoop which follows through from the bodywork 

onto the door to give you a guide as to the height of the door at the rear and 

of course the top line of the door. Spend time making sure that you have the 

correct position of the door before continuing with the door assembly. 

Open and close the door into the door aperture and mark on the door shut 

face the height of the door striker by referring to the position in the door. As a 

guide the door striker should be approximately 70mm horizontally from the 

outside face of the door shut. When you are satisfied you have the correct 

position, pilot and drill the door striker hole to Ø12mm clearance. Mount the 

door striker T0520 to the monocoque T0100 using 12mm x 1.25 pitch Nyloc 

nuts and washers. 

Open and shut the door many times to make sure that you have the striker in 

the right position, that the locks are working correctly and that the door is 

lining up with the outside of the car. It will be more than likely that you will 

need to file the door striker position and adjust the door striker to get the best 

possible fit. Time taken now to get the best possible fit is well worth while. 

Wind up the door window to its top position and adjust the window regulator 

top stop T0521 by slackening the 6mm bolts and turning them eccentric to 

obtain the best fit with the glass in regard to the top of the door aperture. Now 

cut some 13.5mm thick pieces of wood and glue them to several positions 

around the door window seal. Shut the door and adjust the position of the 

door glass by packing out the bottom mount of the doorframe T0500/1 with 

6mm washers. The most critical position is where the door glass meets the 

top of the door mirror triangle. Take great care to get the best possible fit at 

this point. 

Remove the wood and replace with standard Rover Metro door seal and 

check and readjust the window position. Time spent now is very important to 

make sure that the door sealing is waterproof. 


ROOF PANEL 

A removable roof panel is fitted to the Libra and when removed is stored 

behind the seats of the car. When stored the panel does not restrict the view 

out of the rear window. The panel is located and fixed by five turn knobs. 

When secured from the inside the panel is not removable from the outside 

and hence offers complete security. Drain channels are provided from the 

roof panel aperture and these in turn are also used to drain the roof when the 

panel is in place to prevent water running off the roof and into the car when 

the doors are open. A waterproof seal is also provided by GTM for the 

aperture of the roof T1408. 

Roof Panel assembly 

Mark the centre of the circular indents on the roof of the monocoque. Drill first 

with a pilot drill and drill out to Ø10mm. Fit the waterproof seal T1408. The 

roof panel should now fit in through these holes and is secured by the five turn 

knobs T0660. 


ENGINE 

ENGINE COVER MOULDING…………………………………….4.2 

Engine cover assembly……………………………..4.2 

ENGINE FRAME…………………………………………………….4.3 

Engine frame assembly……………………………..4.3 

ENGINE AND AUXILIARIES……………………………………….4.4 

Engine assembly……………………………………..4.4 

Auxiliaries……………………………………………...4.4 


ENGINE COVER MOULDING 

The engine cover moulding incorporates the rear boot of the Libra. The 

moulding complete with the boot, pivots about the bottom rear corners to give 

access to the engine for servicing and general maintenance. It is secured 

along its front edge to the monocoque with six Spiro clips similar to the front 

moulding. When shut, the rear pivots are not used to support the rear 

moulding. Adjustable brackets off the engine frame support the moulding 

which are located under the floor of the boot moulding. These brackets take 

the weight of the boot contents and the weight of the moulding. The moulding 

has inner wheel arches attached to it which form part of the air intake ducting 

to the engine. 

Engine Cover Assembly 

Start by fitting the 6 Spiro clip plates T0602 to the monocoque using the No 8 

self tapping screws. At this stage do not fit the spacer washers under the 

plates. The position of the plates is indicated on the monocoque and the sill 

end panels with small indentations. Fit 6 off Spiro clipsT0602 into the Spiro 

clip plates. 

Take the rear panel and drill 6 pilot holes through the centre of the 

indentations in the moulding for the panel fasteners. Now open these up to 

Ø6mm holes. 

Loosely attach boot support angle bracket T0411 to engine sub frame T0400 

using the boot wobble plate T0410, 6 socket cap Ø6mm bolts, 15mm long 

washers and Nyloc nuts. 

Attach the rear panel to the monocoque using 6 fairing fasteners T0600. 

Adjust the rear fairing to obtain an equal panel gap of approximately 4mm. 

Working within the wheel arch, adjust the adjustable boot support angle 

frames to rest on the bottom of the boot floor. Tighten the six off 6mm socket 

screws. 

Working within the wheel arch, attach the hinge spacers T0604 to the ends of 

the engine sub frame T0400 using four 6mm Nyloc nuts and washers. 

Loosely attach hinge plate T0603 to these hinge spaces using four 6mm 

Nyloc nuts and washers. 


Assemble a bonnet hinge bush T0611 onto a pivot rear panel T0605 and 

using a 10mm socket cap screw 25mm long attach this assembly to the 

loosely assembled hinge plates T0603. Note that the pivot rear panel 

brackets TO605 are handed and that the leg which attaches to the bottom of 

the rear panel faces inwards towards the car and the hole which the bush 

T0611 fits through is angled away from the rear panel of the car. 

Adjust hinge plate T0603 to the best position and mark two Ø6mm holes in the 

bottom of the rear panel to attach the pivot rear panel bracket T0605. 

Remove the 10mm socket screw and drill these previously marked holes with 

a Ø6mm clearance drill. Reassemble the pivots and attach using pivot 

securing plate T0606 and two Ø6mm Nyloc nuts and washers. 

The fairing fasteners can now be undone and the rear panel should now pivot 

backwards to give access to the engine compartment satisfactorily. Slight 

rear adjustment maybe required to obtain the best possible fit. 

ENGINE FRAME 

The engine gearbox unit on the Libra is mounted to a purpose designed 

frame, which in turn is bolted directly to the monocoque on the rear panel. 

The Libra utilises the standard Rover engine mounts and the standard 

gearbox mounting. These mountings bolt directly to the engine frame. The 

standard Metro K Series bottom engine mounting is retained with a special 

engine steady rod, which bolts to the mounting and forward under the sump to 

the underside of the monocoque. The engine frame tubes run backwards and 

provide the support for the bottom of the boot and at the far most end pivots 

for the rear panel. 

Note. There are no connections between the engine frame and the rear 

suspension. 

Engine frame assembly. 

The Libra engine frame bolts directly to the monocoque without spacers. 

Inside the monocoque are spreader plates. 

The center of each hole for the mounting frame is marked on the monocoque 

with a small indentation. Drill the center of these indentations with a Ø1.25mm 

drill. Open out the holes on the four large mounting plates to Ø8mm clearance 

holes and the three holes on the small mounting plates to Ø6mm clearance. 

35mm long socket bolts can now bolt the engine frame to the monocoque 

using the 12 off 8 x 35mm long socket bolts and the 3 off 6 x 35mm. These 

bolts mount through the engine frame mountings, through the monocoque, 

and through the spreader plates. They are secured with Nyloc nuts. 

Note the Engine Frame is welded on a separate jig and when fitting to the rear 

bulkhead of the monocoque a small amount of distortion can be expected. It 


may be necessary to strain the frame a small amount in order to assemble all 

the bolts through into the monocoque. 

Once all the bolts are in place tighten and secure. 

ENGINE AND AUXILIARIES. 

The Libra utilises all the standard auxiliaries from the K Series Rover Metro. 

The ECU relay box, coil and filter unit from the Metro all bolt directly to the 

bulkhead. The water bottle header tank bolts via a glass fibre shell to the 

drivers side rear engine frame tube directly behind the engine. 

Engine assembly 

The engine on the GTM Libra is fitted from under the car. This is best 

achieved by jacking the car up to a height where the engine can be 

manoeuvred under the engine frame from the rear and then lift the engine with 

an engine crane. If you have not got an engine crane then it is perfectly 

possible and easy to jack the car up position the engine under the car at a 

suitable height and then lower the car onto the engine. The engine mounts on 

the standard Rover K Series Metro engine mounts. If you are using the 

engine out of any other Rover car and not a Metro it is essential that the 

engine and gearbox mounts are changed to those of the Rover K Series 

Metro. If you are using an 1800cc K Series engine with the AP1 gearbox it is 

necessary to purchase from GTM a special adapter bracket for your gearbox 

mounting. The engine mounting in this case must also be replaced by the K 

Series Rover Metro engine mounting. Before assembling the engine to the 

car remove the main engine mounting from the engine by undoing the two 

nuts and slide the casting upwards. Mount this casting into the location on the 

Libra engine frame remembering to incorporate the two standard sideways 

rubbers between the casting and the frame. Leave this bolt slightly loose to 

enable adjustment to be made as the engine is brought up to the car from 

below. On the gearbox end of the assembly mount the standard Rover K 

Series Metro gearbox mounting to the gearbox. Disregard the metalwork that 

surrounds the mounting that is attached by the two small nuts on the top of 

the mounting. This is replaced on the Libra by a built in mount on the engine 

frame. Jack up the engine or lower the body up into the engine frame from 

below the car and as it comes up locate the engine mounting and the gearbox 

mounting into the appropriate areas. Tighten up the two vertical bolts on the 

engine mount attached to the engine and fit the T0415 gearbox mounting 

bottom support under the standard Rover gearbox mounting using two 

Ø10mm x 25mm long socket cap screws, washers and Nyloc nuts. 


Auxiliaries 

All the engine auxiliaries on the K Series Libra can conveniently be mounted 

directly onto the main bulkhead immediately prior to the engine. The 

arrangement shown in drawing No 29 at the end of this manual shows the 

suggested layout. 

The main engine relay can be conveniently mounted onto the bulkhead using 

the original K Series mounting cut down so it can be bolted directly onto the 

bulkhead. Drill two Ø6mm clearance holes in the outside face of the cut down 

component and use these holes to drill the bulkhead. Position the relay unit 

as close as possible to the indentation in the main mould for the main engine 

frame. Position the top of the mounting bracket as close as possible to the 

top of the flat surface of the bulkhead. 

Mount the coil closely against the relay unit using the standard K Series 

mounting and bolt through the bulkhead with two Ø6 x 25mm long set bolts, 

washers and nyloc nuts. 

Mount the standard K Series Rover fuel filter as shown in the diagram directly 

onto the bulkhead adjacent to the coil using two Ø6 x 25mm long set bolts, 

Nyloc nuts and washers. Note that the ‘U’ section outlet from the fuel filter is 

at the top of the filter body and that the inlet from the petrol tank is at the 

bottom. 

Mount the engine management ECU to the left of the main relays as indicated 

on the diagram using three off Ø6 x 25mm long socket cap screws, washers 

and Nyloc nuts. 

Finally, mount the inertia switch to the LHS of the Engine Management ECU 

using two No 6 x 20 mm long self tapping screws. 


FRONT AND REAR SUSPENSION 

FRONT SUSPENSION……………………………………………..5.2 

Kit components required……………………………5.2 

Donor parts required...............................................5.3 

Front suspension assembly………………………...5.3 

REAR SUSPENSION………………………………………………..5.4 

Kit components required........................................5.4 

Donor parts required…………………………………5.5 

Rear suspension assembly…………………………5.5 


FRONT SUSPENSION 

The Libra uses a conventional 

unequally length double wishbone 

suspension at the front. It uses two 

Metro front hub assemblies with the 

standard top ball-joints but special 

bottom joints. The outer part of the drive shaft assemblies used on the Metro 

are used to secure the front wheel bearings and hubs. They are machined on 

exchange by GTM Cars Ltd. The top and bottom wishbones are specially 

made components and utilise special inner bearings. These bearings are held 

by mounting brackets which in turn are bolted directly to the front of the 

composite monocoque. A 3mm shim is used on all the mounting brackets 

between them and the monocoque to enable fine adjustment to be made once 

the car is completed. Separate 1mm shims are provided for this purpose. 

Inside the monocoque, spreader plates are used to spread the loads applied. 

Adjustable seat height coil over shock absorber units bolt between the lower 

front wishbone and the front damper mountings which in turn are mounted to 

the monocoque in a similar manner to the wishbone mounting brackets. 

The shock absorbers have their adjusters towards the bottom of the shock 

absorber. 

The GTM steering arms replace the standard Metro steering arms. These 

face forward rather than backwards as in the Metro. THE LHS METRO HUB 

IS USED ON THE RHS OF THE LIBRA AND THE RHS HUB ON THE LHS. 

Kit components required 

T0200 / T0201 - FRONT TOP WISHBONES. 

T0202 / T0203 - FRONT BOTTOM WISHBONES. 

T0204 - FRONT W/B MOUNTING BRKT. 

T0205 - FRONT W/B MOUNTINGBRKT.SPREADER. 

T0206 - FRONT W/B MOUNTING SHIM. 

T0207 - FRONT SUSPENSION BUSH ASSEMBLY. 


T0208 - FRONT BOTTOM SWIVEL. 

T0209 / T0210 - STEERING ARMS. 

T0211 - FRONT DAMPER SPRING. 

T0212 - FRONT DAMPER MOUNTINGS. 

T0213 - FRONT DAMPERS. 

T0214 - FRONT DAMPER MOUNTING SPREADER. 

T0215 - NUT AND BOLT PACK. 

The top wishbones T0200/T0201 are difficult to recognise in terms of 

passenger and driver side and the top and bottom of the wishbone. Looking 

at the pointed end of the wishbone which holds the top swivel, the taper hole 

faces down towards the ground. This taper also faces slightly forward. With 

the wishbone in the correct position, the front leg of the wishbone is slightly 

longer than the rear leg. 

Donor Parts required 

Two front hub assemblies complete with top ball joints, brakes, callipers, 

brake pads and outer part of drive shaft assembly. Steering arm mounting 

bushes. 

Front suspension assembly 

Bush assemblies T0207 should be assembled using molybdenum type grease 

included in the pack. Separate all parts of the bush, including the stainless 

steel inner sleeves. Grease inside and out of the parts and reassemble inside 

the top wishbone T0200. Push the bush into the top wishbone T0200 with a 

vice. If the bush will not sit totally inside the wishbone then rotate it slightly in 

the vice. Put the bushes in to the top and bottom wishbones for the front 

suspension: T0200, T0201, T0202 and T0203. 

Install the front wishbone mounting brackets T0204 to the top and bottom front 

wishbones. Using the Ø10 x 50mm bolts from fastener pack T0215 (B), keep 

the bushes and bracket lined up while other assembly takes place. Have the 

head of the bolt facing inwards towards the other bracket. The positions of 

the wishbone mounting brackets are indicated on the monocoque by small 

indentations. Hold the front RHS wishbone assembly, complete with the 

mounting brackets, to the monocoque. The indentations in the monocoque 

should line up with the holes in the bracket. Any slight misalignments should 

be marked on the monocoque. 

Drill out one hole for each of the brackets using a pilot drill and double check 

the right position for the holes. Drill the two holes to Ø6mm clearance. Mount 

each bracket to the monocoque using a Ø6mm bolt from fastener pack T0215 

(A) in the hole drilled. 


Use this assembly as a jig to drill out the 

remaining holes needed for the 

assembly. 

The 3mm spacer plate must be added to the assembly before the wishbone is 

finally put on to the monocoque. The spacer plate is located in between the 

monocoque and the mounting bracket. 

Loosely mount the top wishbone assembly using the Ø6mm 

bolts from the T0215 (A) pack. The spreader plate is then 

slotted on to the assembly from the inside of the monocoque. 

Use the Ø6 x 35mm long bolts from fastener pack T0215 

(A) for mounting except where these bolts will not totally 

penetrate the monocoque. For the thicker areas of the 

monocoque, 40mm and 45mm long bolts are provided. 

Use the shortest bolts possible in the assembly. Mount 

only the top wishbones to the monocoque. 

Note: it is much easier to mount the brackets with the wishbone assembled 

then to assemble the wishbones after the brackets have been bolted to the 

monocoque. 

Use the Nyloc nuts from pack T0215 (B) and tighten the bolts holding the 

wishbone to the mounting bracket. Note that no washers are used in this 

assembly to allow the Nyloc nuts to fully penetrate the bolts. 

Once you are satisfied everything appears correct, tighten all Nyloc nuts. 

The bottom swivels T0208 can now be mounted to the bottom 

wishbones using fastener pack T0215 (G). It is easiest to put 

one bolt and washer through the swivel and the wishbone and 

then rotate the swivel to line up the other two holes. Insert the 

other two bolts and washers. Put on Nyloc nuts and washers. 

Tighten the Nyloc nuts on the bottom swivel T0208. 


Hold the completed bottom wishbone assembly to the 

monocoque roughly over the indentations. Drill one 

hole on each bracket and insert a bolt from fastener 

pack T0215 (A). Using this assembly as a jig, pilot 

drill the remaining holes. Open the holes to a Ø6mm 

clearance. Attach the bottom wishbone assembly including the spacer plates 

on the outer side of the monocoque using fastener pack T0215 (A). 

Locate the spreader plate on the inside of the monocoque and add washers 

and Nyloc nuts. Once you are satisfied with the position of both bottom 

wishbones, tighten all the Nyloc nuts. 

Mount the front damper brackets T0212 to the monocoque using fastener 

pack T0215 (C) in a similar manner to the wishbone mounting brackets. 

Take the front damper T0213 and pull out the piston until the 

black ring at the top slips off. Slide the black spring T0211 over 

the damper. (The spring has no orientation). 

Replace the black ring and push the piston back down. 

Locate the piston end of the damper into the damper bracket 

T0213. Secure with a 60mm long bolt from fastener pack 

T0215 (). Push the bottom of the damper in to the housing 

on the top wishbone T0200. Secure with a 65mm long bolt. 

Add washers and Nyloc nuts and tighten the assembly. 

Assemble the front LHS metro hub to the RHS of the Libra. The bottom 

swivel T0208 slots in to the bottom of the hub. The metro top ball joint is then 


olted through the top wishbone T0200. Repeat on the LHS of the Libra with 

the metro RHS front hub. 

REAR SUSPENSION 

The Libra rear suspension is an advanced design. 

The rear suspension utilises two trailing wishbones on 

either side of the car. These wishbones like the front 

wishbones are mounted directly via brackets to the 

monocoque. Standard Metro front hub assemblies are 

bolted to the trailing wishbones using the standard ball 

joints at the top and bottom. The bottom ball joint must 

be the standard Metro bottom ball joint and not the 

GTA or GTi ball joint. Special steering arms are bolted 

to the hubs using the standard locations and these in 

turn are connected using the standard Metro track rod 

end via an adjustable link to a special ball joint. This is 

then mounted to the upper trailing wishbone. Special upside down adjustable 

spring height coil over shock absorber units mount between the top trailing 

wishbone and a mounting bracket bolted directly to the monocoque, high on 

the rear panel. THE LHS METRO HUB IS USED ON THE RHS OF THE 

LIBRA AND THE RHS HUB ON THE LHS. 

Kit components required. 

1 x T0300 Rear suspension arm top driver’s side. 

1 x T0301 Rear suspension arm bottom passenger side. 

1 x T0302 Rear suspension arm lower drivers side. 

1 x T0303 Rear suspension arm passenger side. 

2 x T0324 Inner rear suspension mounting bracket. 

2 x T0325 Outer rear suspension mounting bracket. 

8 x T0305 Rear suspension mounting bracket spreader. 

8 x T0307 Rear suspension arm bearing. 

1 x T0308 Rear steering arms driver side. 

1 x T0309 Rear steering arms passenger side. 

2 x T0310 Rear suspension steering arm track rod end. 


2 x T0311 Rear suspension arm track rod end. 

2 x T0312 Rear suspension arm adjusting link. 

2 x T0313 Rear suspension arm LHT adapter. 

2 x T0323 Rear damper unit. 

2 x T0315 Rear damper spring. 

2 x T0316 Rear damper mounting. 

2 x T0317 Rear bumper mounting plate. 

1 x T0318 Rear suspension, nut and bolt pack. 

4 x T0319 Rear suspension, rod end lock nut. 

8 x T0320 Rear suspension, rod end adjuster. 

Donor parts required 

Two front hub assemblies (solid discs) complete with top ball joint & bottom 

swivels (not GTi.) 

Rear suspension assembly. 

The rear suspension mounts directly to the monocoque. Look at the RHS rear 

of the monocoque and identify the indentations made for the mounting 

brackets T0324 and T0325. T0324 lines up with the inner set of indentations 

and T0325 lines up with the outer set of indentations. Check that all the 

indentations line up and mark and misalignments. With a small pilot drill, drill 

out the centre of the indentations and then open out to a Ø6mm clearance. 

Repeat on the LHS with T0324 on the inside set of indentations and T0325 on 

the outer set of indentations. 

Loosely mount all four mounting brackets using Ø6mm socket cap head 

screws 35mm long from fastener pack T0318 (A). 40mm long bolts are also 

provided in this pack to penetrate the thick areas of the fibre glass so that a 

Nyloc nut can fit satisfactorily. Use a washer provided in the fastener pack 

T0318 (A) between each bolt head and the monocoque. 

The rear suspension brackets do not use spacers in between the monocoque 

and the bracket. This is due to that fact that a suspension adjustment is 

obtained by adjusting the screw threads from the bearings to the wishbone. 

Note that the outer mounting brackets T0325 have tapering holes facing 

towards each other and the rear suspension arm bearing is inserted from the 

bottom and one from the top unlike bracket T0324 where both rear 

suspension arm bearings are inserted from the top. 

Take four rear suspension arm bearings 

T0307 and locate locking nuts on to the 

longer threaded end. 


Screw these bearings in to the pre tapped 

tube in the wishbones T0300, T0301, T0302 

and T0303. Adjust these inner bearings so that 

the 

centre of the ball is 39mm from the top of 

the tapped tube that holds the bearing. 

Turn the lock nut down to the pre-tapped tube and tighten to hold the bearing 

in place. 

Take the remaining four rear suspension arm bearings 

T0307. Each outer bearing is held in the wishbone by two 

adjuster nuts T0320. These nuts allow the wishbone to be 

adjusted when assembled to the car without the removal of 

the bearing from its housing. Screw the long threaded end 

into one the adjuster nuts T0320 from the top end of the 

wishbone housing. 

Insert another adjuster nut T0320 from the bottom 

end of the housing and locate the end of the bearing 

and carry on screwing in the bearing. Screw in the 

bearing until the top edge of the housing is 39mm 

away from the centre of the ball of the bearing. This 

will be re adjusted when the car is prepared for the road. 

The wishbones can now be assembled to the mounting 

brackets. T0300 and T0301 assemble to the top of the 

mounting brackets T0324/T0325 and T0302 and T0303 

assemble to the bottom of the brackets. Use the Nyloc nuts 

and washers provided in T0318 (B) to attach the wishbones, 

remembering the outer bottom bearings insert from 

underneath. Once all four wishbones are loosely assembled 

to the monocoque, tighten the Nyloc nuts. 


Locate the two shock absorber brackets T0316. On the rear of the 

monocoque look for two sets of four indentations under the rear window. Pilot 

drill these indentations and open up to Ø6mm clearance. Secure the brackets 

T0316 using bolts, washers and Nyloc nuts from fastener pack T0318 (E). 

Take the shock absorber T0323 and the spring T0315. Pull the piston of the 

shocker until the black ring around the top slips off. Slip the spring over the 

top of the shock absorber. Replace the black ring around the top by pulling 

piston further out if necessary. 

The top end of the shock absorber bolts in to bracket 

T0316 using fastener pack T0318 (F). The bottom end of 

the shock absorber bolts onto the top trailing wishbone 

(T0300, T0301) using fastener pack T0318 (G). 

The standard Rover Metro hub assembly can now be mounted to the 

wishbone using the standard top and bottom swivels. The bottom swivel is 

mounted to the top face of the bottom wishbone using the Ø8 x 25mm long 

socket cap bolts. 

The Libra steering arms T0308 replace the standard Rover Metro steering 

arms, T0309. These arms are attached to the hub assembly by the Ø10 x 

35mm long bolts. 

Note the standard Rover Metro location sleeves are retained. 

Build up the rear track rods by first fully screwing in the left hand thread 

adapter T0313 to the track rod end T0310. This adapter should be securely 

screwed in to the track rod end preferably with some form of lock tight. Screw 

the left hand threaded half nut to the left and threaded adapter followed by the 

adjusting link (Approx. Ball center to center is 330mm.) T0312. Screw the 

14mm half nut on to the track rod end T0311 and then the track rod end into 

the adjusting link. This assembly can now be fitted to the rear suspension 

taking care to make sure that the tapers are well seated. Adjust the adjusting 

link to give an approximate straight-ahead position of the hub, which will be 

adjusted more accurately on the setup for the road. 


HEATER, PETROL TANK & RADIATOR 

BATTERY & BATTERY MOULDING 

Assembly………………………………………………6.2 

HEATER and PIPE WORK………………………………………..6.2 

Heater and pipe work assembly………………………..6.2 

Fresh air vents assembly……………………………..6.3 

PETROL TANK FILLER…………………………………………...6.4 

Neck and cap………………………………………………6.4 

Neck and cap assembly………………………………….6.5 

RADIATOR DUCTING & SPLASH MOULDS……………………6.6 

Radiator ducting & splash moulds assembly………..6.6 

RADIATOR MOULD, RADIATOR & PIPE WORK………………6.7 


Radiator mould, radiator & pipe work assembly…….6.7 

PIPES & SERVICES THROUGH THE TUNNEL…………………6.9 

BATTERY AND BATTERY MOULDING 

A standard K Series Rover Metro battery is employed on the Libra and is 

located in a purpose made box under the spare wheel. 

Special battery leads are provided in the kit, which run from the battery 

through the tunnel to the engine compartment, 

Battery and Battery Moulding Assembly 

The battery mounting T0109 mounts between the monocoque and the radiator 

ducting. Drill the four small holes in the battery mounting Ø6mm in the 

positions indicated by the small indentations. Place the battery mounting 

between the monocoque and the radiator ducting to identify the holes that 

require to be drilled. Remove the battery mounting and drill the four Ø6mm 

holes where indicated. 

Replace the battery mounting and attach using Ø6 x 25mm set bolts, Nylocs 

and large diameter washers. The bottom bolts that go through the radiator 

ducting should be fed through from the bottom so as to minimise the amount 

showing under the car. 

The battery from the Rover Metro can now be fitted in the battery mounting 

with the terminals closest to the monocoque. 

The battery leads can now be fitted from the battery towards the drivers side 

of the car and through the recess made in the moulding round through the 

tunnel over the petrol tank and through the engine. 

The red (positive) lead attaches to the solenoid attached to the starter motor 

and black (negative) lead runs over the solenoid and starter motor and 

attaches to the gearbox bolt immediately behind the starter motor. 

The battery leads are attached in the tunnel as indicated on the tunnel 

diagram. 


HEATER AND PIPEWORK 

The Libra utilises the standard Metro heater unit. It is mounted in the same 

manner as in the Metro but has a special air pipe from the heater fan unit to 

the mixer unit in the car. The screen de-misters are special to the Libra and 

are fed through flexible pipes. Special fresh air ventilators are provided in the 

centre of the dashboard and these are fed via a plenum chamber provided in 

the internal structure of the dashboard which in turn is fed by the conventional 

outlet from the heater unit. Rubber piping feeds the heater unit within the car 

through the front bulkhead down to the tunnel at the front of the car. It then 

goes through aluminum pipes that run through the tunnel to the engine end of 

the car and then through rubber pipes to the standard heater outlets from the 

engine. 

Heater & Pipe work assembly 

Refer to drawing No 10; take the standard Rover Metro fan assembly and 

remove the metal clip opposite the central front hole flush with the front of the 

mounting plate. 

Using a small diameter drill, drill out the six holes in the monocoque to mount 

the heater fan assembly in the position indicated by the small indentations. 

Open out these holes to Ø6mm clearance. Using the drawing provided, mark 

out the aperture required enabling the square air pipe to pass through the 

bulkhead. Drill the four corner positions with a Ø10mm drill. Using a jigsaw or 

by chain drilling remove the shape from the monocoque. Clean the edges 

with a suitable file or production paper. 

The heater unit can now be mounted to the monocoque using Ø6mm set bolt 

20mm long washers and Nyloc nuts. When screwing the Ø6mm long set bolts 

into the captive nuts on the top of the heater blower unit make sure that the 

bolts do not protrude too far and foul the plastic of the heater unit. If 

necessary cut the bolts down in length. The top face of the heater blower unit 

may have to be trimmed to allow the bonnet to fit correctly. 

It is extremely important that prior to finally fitting the heater blower unit that 

the two mating faces are clean and the rubber gasket is intact to prevent 

water seeping through into the cockpit. If you are in any doubt whatsoever it 

is advisable to use clear silicone sealant between the two. The Ø6mm bolt 

along the front edge of the heater mounting plate in the front outside corner 

can be difficult to fit as it is extremely close to the outside edge of the 

monocoque. By fitting the plate loosely with the other bolts it is possible to 

drill at an angle to get this bolt in. 

The heater mixer unit can now be fitted from under the dashboard. Before 

fitting the heater mixer unit to the underside of the dashboard it is better at this 

stage to fit the heater air duct T0120 to the heater unit. The air duct is 


attached to the heater unit using two or three small self-tapping screws. 

Where the heater air duct comes up to the fan unit it is necessary to pack the 

gap out using a suitable piece of foam. Looking up from under the dashboard 

the two holes required to mount the heater have small indents. Pilot drill the 

centers and drill out to Ø8mm clearance. The heater unit can now be bolted 

up under the dashboard using two Ø8 x 25mm long set bolts, washers and 

Nyloc nuts. 

Mark the position of the two holes required enabling the heater pipes T0811 to 

run through the front bulkhead. Make sure the positions are such that the 

pipes miss the spare wheel when in position and also miss the heater blower 

unit. Use the grommets to determine the minimum center distance. Drill the 

two holes with a Ø35mm hole saw. Clean the holes using production paper. 

A good seal is required here to prevent water running through the grommet 

into the car. Fit the grommets in the holes and thread the heater pipes 

through and secure to the heater unit using jubilee clips. The pipes can now 

be run through round the outside of the spare wheel and through the front of 

the battery mounting mould onto the aluminum pipes running through the 

tunnel. Note that at the heater end of the pipe work a part of the Rover Metro 

heater hose is used so as to retain the bleed facility. 

At the rear end of the car the heater hoses run above the petrol tank to the 

joiners. The Joiners join the standard heater hose into part of the original 

Metro hoses and then into the standard positions on the engine. 

Fresh Air Vents Assembly 

The fresh air vents T0696 are attached to the front of the structural dashboard 

with the centres of the vents as indicated on the dashboard moulding. 

Drill out the centres with a small drill 

and hole saw to Ø70mm. Carefully 

remove the centre of the fresh air 

eyeball T0696 and use the outside as 

a template to drill the four locating 

holes through the dashboard fascia. 

The holes need to be Ø3mm. These 

holes need to be countersunk to allow 

the bezel plate T1716 to fit flush 

against the dashboard. Do this using 

either a specialist countersink drill 

piece or use a larger drill bit and carefully drill out just enough to let the head 

of the bolt through. 

The outside of the fresh air vents can now be attached from the inside of the 

dashboard and held in place by four countersunk screws, nuts and washers. 

The centre eyeball of the air vent can now be pushed carefully in from the 

front of the dashboard. 

Attach Bezel plate T1716 to the front of the dashboard with either contact 

adhesive or hot melt glue. Check that the eyeballs rotate freely. 


Put in place the plenum chamber T0122 over the internal part of the 

dashboard to direct the air from the heater to the eyeballs. The LHS bolt 

holding the heater mixer unit is also used as an earth point so it is necessary 

to be able to get to it easily. Use a 32mm hole saw to cut away the corner 

enough to get a socket to the earth point. 

When fitting the plenum chamber be careful to seal off the holes with a 

suitable sealing material to prevent any air leaks. Also seal around the edge 

of the plenum chamber to prevent air leaks. 

With the heater switched on, the eyeballs should now give a good amount of 

fresh air to the cabin. 

PETROL TANK FILLER NECK AND CAP 

The Libra utilises the standard K Series Rover Metro petrol tank. The tank 

must be the appropriate one for the engine being used i.e. should the engine 

be fuel injected the tank must contain the appropriate fuel injection pump. 

The petrol tank mounts under the monocoque behind the seats. The standard 

petrol tank sender-unit is employed. A special flush fitting aluminum filler cap 

is mounted on the driver’s side of the car and feeds through a special steel 

pipe through the monocoque into the petrol tank. 

Petrol Tank Filler Neck and Cap Assembly 

Remove the fuel injection pump and the petrol gauge sender unit if separate 

from the standard K Series Rover Metro petrol tank. Ensure that all the petrol 

has been removed from the tank. It is essential that all the petrol be removed 

prior to working on the tank to prevent the explosion. Where the filler neck 

enters the body of the petrol tank cut it so that it protrudes from the petrol tank 

20mm. Remove any brackets that may be supporting the petrol tank neck on 

the standard K Series Rover Metro tank. 

Where the large breather tube leaves the petrol tank cut the tube 

approximately 60mm from the right angle bend. 

The various years of K Series Rover Metro petrol tanks have had several 

different forms of venting. Apart from the large diameter 5 * breather pipe 

mentioned in the above paragraph cut of and seal up all the other breathers 

coming out of the tank. 

The GTM breather is taken from a T Piece positioned in the * diameter 

breather pipe close to the petrol pipe adapter T0621 and as shown in drawing 

No 7. 

The petrol tank should only be fitted to the monocoque once all the services 

have been run through the tunnel including the handbrake cables. 


The Ø6mm breather pipe is taken up into the driver’s side box section and 

back down through the same hole as the main petrol pipe and tie wrapped 

appropriately at the point where it exits the body. This breather pipe needs to 

be kept well away from the exhaust system. 

Referring to the petrol tank drawing in this manual, position the tank under the 

monocoque and determine the appropriate position for the new holes that 

have to be drilled in the petrol tank flange adjacent to the tunnel of the 

monocoque. These holes need to be positioned so that the bolts would run 

through into the lugs provided in the monocoque moulding. Remove the tank 

and drill Ø6mm clearance holes. Reposition the tank under the car and mark 

the two holes previously drilled and the other two mounting holes. Remove 

the tank and drill all four Ø6mm clearance holes. Position the tank under the 

car again and mark the position for the filler tube to come through the 

monocoque and the large diameter vent pipe. Remove the petrol tank and 

hole saw two appropriate holes into the monocoque to give a good clearance. 

Replace the petrol pump and sender unit into the petrol tank. Attach 500mm 

of the 5/16” ID petrol pipe to the original K Series Rover Banjo and attach to 

tank. Attach 1200mm of 5/16” ID rubber pipe to the return on the petrol tank. 

The petrol tank can now be attached to the monocoque using three Ø6 x 

25mm long set bolts, washers and Nylocs and one 55mm long x Ø6 bolt 

through spacer tube TO622 at the rear of the petrol tank. 

Cut, using a hole saw or by chain drilling, the aperture for the petrol filler 

T0620. Drill Ø5mm clearance holes for the mounting bolts. Mount the petrol 

filler to the outside of the monocoque complete with its funnel. Using T0624 

and the 50mm ID rubber pipe 2 inches long attach T0621 adapter pipe 

between the filler T0620 and the petrol tank. The 50mm ID rubber pipe 2 

inches long can be slid onto the aluminium funnel and then with adapter pipe 

T0620 in place the pipe slid back over the gap. 

Insert the plastic T piece for the Ø6mm breather pipe into the * ID rubber pipe 

coming from the tank and re-connect the other side of the T piece to the 

adapter pipe T0621. 

It is extremely important when you have completed you car and it is ready for 

the road that you check all the petrol pipe joins for leakage. Do not run your 

car until you are satisfied that there are absolutely no leaks in the system. 

RADIATOR DUCTING AND SPLASH MOULDS TO MONOCOQUE 

The front end of the Libra is held together by the radiator ducting mould. It is 

bolted to the monocoque. The design is such to allow a degree of crash 

protection in front of the monocoque. The radiator moulding, battery 

moulding, bonnet hinges etc. all mount to the radiator ducting mould. 

Radiator ducting and splash moulds to monocoque assembly 

The radiator ducting T0107 attaches to the monocoque T0100 using six 

Ø6mm set bolts 25mm long, Nyloc nuts and large diameter washers from 


fastener pack T0607. With the ducting T0107 resting on the car with the two 

vertical faces up against the monocoque you will see two indents where the 

Ø6mm bolts fit. Remove the moulding and drill these two holes with a Ø6mm 

clearance hole. Replace the radiator ducting and position snugly on the 

monocoque and mark the two holes. Remove the ducting and drill these two 

marked holes a good Ø6mm clearance i.e. Ø8mm. Make sure that the top 

face of the radiator ducting moulding protrudes above the top surface of the 

central monocoque by approximately 15mm to enable the rubber trim 

moulding to fit correctly. Replace the ducting and bolt up the ducting to the 

monocoque using two of the Ø6mm bolts. 

Now looking from the top of the radiator ducting and inside the ducting 

adjacent to the heater blower unit and the pedal box, two further indentations 

can be seen for the mounting bolts. Holding the ducting snugly against the 

monocoque drill these holes Ø6mm clearance. Remove the ducting and open 

out these holes to a good Ø6mm clearance i.e. Ø8mm. 

Replace the ducting and secure with Ø6mm bolts, Nylocs and washers. 

When bolted up there is a deliberate slot on the rear edge between the 

moulding and the monocoque to allow water to drain. Do not fill this slot with 

anything. 

Now working from within the wheel arches drill a Ø6mm clearance hole 

through the ducting and the monocoque on the flange of the ducting 

approximately 15mm from the first angle of the wheel arch on the monocoque. 

Bolt through with Ø6mm bolts, washers and Nyloc nuts. 

Two small splash mouldings TO112/3 are attached to the monocoque using 

No 8 self tapping screws and washers from fastener pack T0607 to finish off 

the seal path of the wheel arches. The shiny side of the splash mouldings 

face towards the door closures. The splash mouldings have a rebated portion 

that fits over the end of the radiator ducting. 

The shape of the splash moulding means it positions itself. Working from the 

inside of the wheel arch attach the splash moulding to the monocoque. The 

top edge of the splash mouldings align with the top edge of the radiator 

ducting. At the top end of the splash moulding where it goes over the 

radiator ducting, drill through both splash moulding and radiator ducting to 

allow both components to be attached using the self-tapping screws. When 

attaching the mouldings with self-tapping screws drill a clearance hole first in 

the splash mouldings and the radiator ducting and the appropriate tapping 

size holes in the monocoque. 

RADIATOR MOULD, RADIATOR AND PIPEWORK 

The Libra uses the standard Metro radiator complete with fan assembly. The 

radiator locates using its four standard rubbers to the radiator mounting 

mould, which in turn bolts to the radiator ducting. In this way the air entering 

the front of the car is forced to flow through the radiator. Rubber and 

aluminum pipe work takes the water from the engine through the tunnel 

through the radiator and back to the engine. The radiator is mounted upside 

down compared to the conventional Metro installation with the cooling fan 


assembly on the right hand side. A radiator bleed pipe is used as on the 

standard Metro and is fed via rubber pipes through the tunnel to the header 

tank. 

Radiator mould, Radiator and pipe work assembly 

Refer to drawing No 9, start the assembly by fitting the radiator to the radiator 

support T0108. 

The radiator is mounted upside down with the fan on the driver’s side and the 

funny shape plastic legs at the bottom. The radiator is mounted on the 

standard K Series Rover Metro rubbers. Drill the 2 holes in the top face of the 

radiator support, indicated by the small indents with a small pilot drill. Open 

out to approximately Ø17mm with a hole saw. Drill the holes indicated on the 

bottom mount in a similar manner and open up with a Ø17mm hole saw. Cut 

away the area indicated by the scribe lines on the moulding. This is so that 

the radiator can be slotted in. 

Fit the two standard round Rover Metro radiator mounting rubbers in the two 

top holes. Mount two square Rover Metro mounting rubbers onto the plastic 

bottom legs which will be at the bottom of the radiator. Slip the two top tubes 

of the radiator mountings through the two top bushes already fitted to the 

support moulding and then slide in the two bottom rubbers already attached to 

the radiator into the slots previously made in the support. The radiator should 

now hold itself satisfactorily in the support. Remove the radiator from the 

support moulding. 

Bolt the radiator support T0108 to the radiator ducting T0107 using two Ø6mm 

bolts 15mm long, Ø20mm washers and Nyloc nuts. Force the radiator support 

mould down onto the radiator ducting mould and drill three Ø6mm clearance 

holes along the bottom lip of the support moulding to attach it to the radiator 

ducting mould. Bolt through with three Ø6 x 15mm long set bolts, Nyloc nuts 

and 20mm washers. These bolts should be positioned through from the 

underside of the car to minimise the amount showing under the car. The 

radiator can now be remounted into the support moulding attached to the 

ducting mould. The radiator support should not overhang the radiator ducting 

so bolt in as tightly as you can. 

The radiator water flows from the radiator through aluminium pipes to the 

engine. These pipes are joined by standard Rover Metro rubber hoses which 

require cutting and modification. The rubber pipes are attached to the 

aluminium pipes using the jubilee clips provided. 

After the water has left the radiator via a rubber 90-degree bend, a portion of 

the standard Rover Metro radiator steel pipe is used to facilitate the bleed 

pipe. This is located on the driver’s side. Cut the standard Rover Metro pipe 

to a length of 210mm long with the bleed pipe approximately 25mm from one 

end. 

The other entire Ø1 1/8 " pipes are in aluminium and are provided within the kit. 


Work through from the front of the car through the tunnel and to the engine. 

The Ø5/16” rubber bleed pipe, which comes from the standard Rover Metro 

pipe at the front, goes through the tunnel over the petrol tank and through the 

header tank on the driver’s side of the engine. Mounting with the terminals 

closest to the monocoque. 

The battery lead can now be fitted from the battery towards the drivers side of 

the car and through the recess made in the moulding round through the tunnel 

over the petrol tank and through to the engine. The red positive lead 

connects to the solenoid attached to the starter motor and the black negative 

lead runs over the solenoid and starter motor and attaches to the gearbox bolt 

immediately behind the starter motor. 

The battery leads are attached in the tunnel as indicated on the tunnel 

diagram (No 8). 

PIPES AND SERVICES THROUGH THE TUNNEL 

Before any pipes can be run through the tunnel is it important to cut the 

aperture for the gear lever and mount the gear change bracket T0404. Also 

try to drill the holes for the handbrake brackets. For details how to do this look 

in section (). 

HEATER PIPES 

The first pipes to be run through the tunnel are the Ø15mm aluminium heater 

pipes T0810. Refer to drawing No 8 and 10. The heater pipes run along the 

LHS of the tunnel. This is the same whether it is a left or right hand drive. 

Use P clips from pack T0813 and secure the pipes at intervals down the 

tunnel. Make sure the P clips will not get in the way of the gear change. Use 

fastener pack T0815 (I) to hold the P clips to the tunnel. Push the bolts 

through from the outside of the tunnel inwards, using a washer and Nyloc nut 

on the inside of the tunnel. Make sure the heater pipes protrude 140mm at 

the front of the monocoque. 

BATTERY CABLES 

Battery cables T0909 need to run down the RHS of the tunnel. To get an idea 

of how long the battery cables need to be at the front of the car it is a good 

idea to put the battery mounting T0109 in place with a battery and loosely 

connect the cable so you can see the lengths needed. Remove the battery 

and battery mounting T0109 and p clip the cables at four intervals along the 

tunnel. Make sure that one p clip is near the gear change so that it keeps the 

battery cables firm against the monocoque to prevent fowling. 


All other cables through the tunnel are tie wrapped to the p clipped cables. 

For rough locations in the tunnel refer to drawing No 8. Tie wraps can be 

found in fastener pack T0912. The Speedo cable T0702 is run down the RHS 

of the tunnel. Roughly make sure the Speedo cable can reach the instrument 

binnacle at the front of the car before tie wrapping it to the brake pipes. Run 

the clutch cable and wiring loom in a similar way. The handbrake cables will 

eventually also be tie wrapped to go over the petrol tank. The clutch cable, 

heater pipes and gear change rods run underneath the petrol tank. All other 

pipes through the tunnel will run over the petrol tank so it is important to get 

these cables close together so they will fit comfortably in the aperture. Before 

the petrol tank is put in place the rubber piping needs to be fitted to the rear 

end of the smaller aluminium heater pipes using Jubilee clips. These rubber 

pipes can then also be run over the petrol tank. 

Anything loose in this area will rub against the side of the gear change when 

used and eventually fail. When the car is complete ask someone to work the 

gear change whilst you have a good look under the tunnel to make sure that 

nothing is catching or fowling. 


LIGHTS 

FRONT END………………………………………………………….7.1 

Main headlights assembly…………………………..7.1 

Front indicators assembly………………………….7.1 

Side repeater assembly……………………………...7.1 

REAR END…………………………………………………………...7.3 

Rear light unit assembly…………………………….7.3 

Number plate light assembly……………………….7.3 

Fog and reversing lamp assembly…………………7.3 


HEADLIGHT COVERS……………………………………………...7.3 

LIGHTS 

Assembly……………………………………………….7.3 

All the lights used on the Libra are mounted externally to the body mouldings. 

The lights on the front and rear panels are fed by a separate wiring loom 

which is plugged into the main wiring loom to enable the panels to be 

removed completely without disturbing the wiring. 

FRONT END 

Main headlight assembly 

The main headlights T1300 (dip and 

main beam) and the driving lights 

T1311 are held in to the bonnet in the 

same manner. Locate the centre of the 

circle which is marked to be cut out. 

The template in chapter 13 may be 

useful for this. Pilot drill a small hole at 

the middle of the inner circle. Use a 

Ø79mm hole saw and cut out the centre 

of the mounting face. Try to ensure the 

outline of the hole saw matches up to 

the outline on the moulding. 

With a small pilot drill, centre the three 


mounting holes for the driving lights and headlights, as indicated in the bonnet 

moulding. Drill out these holes to Ø7mm. 

Unclip the backs for the driving lights and 

headlights (T1300 and T1311). Insert the 

halogen bulbs taking great care not to touch 

the glass as this can damage the bulb. The 

smaller bulbs with two pins go in to the driving 

lights T1311 and the larger bulbs with three 

pins go in to the headlights T1300. 

Mount the light units into the plastic retainers 

T1301. The light units are retained in the 

holders by three spring loaded clips that go over 

the top face of the light unit and clip behind the 

rear face of the plastic holder. 

The whole assembly then mounts into the 

bonnet with the spring and washer on the 

outside of the bonnet and a washer and 

thumbscrew on the inside of the bonnet. The 

headlights go in the top large moulding and the 

driving lights go on the bottom large moulding. 

By adjusting the thumbscrews the angle and 

direction of the light unit can be adjusted. On the driving light T1311 it is 

necessary to remove one of the three slotted retaining clips attached to the 

light unit to ensure the light fits the holder. This can be conveniently removed 

using electrical side cutters. The clip to be removed is the top clip just to the 

left-hand side of the centre top position. 

Front indicator assembly 

Side lights assembly 

Pilot drill a centre hole and then 

remove the centre of the mounting 

faces for the lights to approximately 

Ø44mm. Using the lights as a 

template, drill out the three mounting 

holes through the face of the light 

using a Ø3.5mm drill. Mount the lights 

using three No 8 12mm long selftapping 

screws from light fastener 

pack T1318 (A). 

Pilot drill a centre hole in the smallest light moulding. Using a Ø22mm hole 


saw, opening up a hole just big enough to push the side lights through. 

Side repeater assembly 

Mount the side repeater lights T1316 on the bonnet. The repeater lights 

should be in line with the top of the front wheel arches and with their centre 

approximately 150mm from the rear face of the bonnet. The size of the hole 

needed is Ø20mm. A template is provided in chapter 13. The template fits to 

the bottom of the bonnet on either side. 

REAR END 

Rear light unit assembly 

To mount the rear light units T1304 drill the rear moulding to 

Ø44mm clearance as indicated. Pilot drill the two mounting 

holes for each indicator and brake light. Open these holes out 

to Ø3.5mm ready for No 8 self tapping screws. Mount the light 

units using the screws provided in the light fastener pack 

T1318 (B). The rear connector of the indicators and brake lights can now be 

screwed in with the bulb. 

Peel the back of the reflector off and attach to the third moulding in the light 

unit. 

Number plate unit assembly 

The number plate light T1310 mounts on the rear panel in the centre so as to 

illuminate the rear number plate. Mount the light unit so that its rear most face 

is approximately 8mm from the rear face of the car. Cut a hole in the rear 

panel approximately 53mm long and 20mm wide to accept the mountings of 

the number plate light unit. Clip in the light unit. Note that you have to drill 

through both the outer and inner skin of the boot. 

Fog and rear light unit assembly 

The rear fog lamp T1306 and reversing 

lamp T1307 are mounted in a similar 

manner. First cut off the plastic hanger 

type bracket at the top of the light units. 

Remove the front glass panel of the 


units and remove the units from their backing plate by undoing the two self- 

tapping screws. Drill Ø2 x 4mm clearance mounting hole through the 

mounting plate of the light units. 

HEADLIGHT COVERS 

Position the two light units in the rebated 

panel on the rear section and drill 

through the mounting plates with an 

Ø3.5mm drill. Secure the mounting 

plates with No 8 self-tapping screws. 

Drill out the wire exit hole to Ø12mm 

clearance hole. Re-assemble the light 

units. 

Headlight covers are provided within the kit for the main/dip headlight units. 

The Perspex covers fit within a rebate in the bonnet moulding. Stainless 

steel self-tapping screws retain the covers. 

Headlight Cover assembly 

The Perspex headlight covers provided in the kit are already cut to size and 

shape. A small amount of sanding of the edges maybe required to make 

them fit precisely into the bonnet rebate. Stainless steel screws as per the 

rear screen can be used to locate the headlamp covers into the bonnet. 

However a number of customers have fixed their headlamp covers in with 

black self tapping screws. The Perspex covers come pre drilled and the holes 

in the covers can be used to locate the fixing holes into the panel. This is 

done by putting a pilot drill through the existing hole in the Perspex cover, 

removing the cover and drilling through a clearance hole in the glass fibre 

bonnet section or if using self tapping screws the right size hole for the self 

tapper being used. 


FRONT & REAR SCREEN AND WIPERS 

SCREENS……………………………………………………………8.2 

Perspex screens rear and side…………………….8.2 

WINDSCREEN………………………………………………………8.2 

Fitting and assembly………………………………...8.2 

Washer bottle, pipes and jets……………………....8.3 

WIPER MOTOR & BLADES……………………………………….8.3 


PERSPEX SCREENS REAR AND SIDE 

The GTM Libra uses Perspex screens to the rear and sides of the car. These 

screens are attached to the rear panel using stainless steel nuts and bolts. 

The side screens are shaped in such a manner to enable air to be drawn into 

the engine bay. 

Perspex Screens Rear and Side assembly 

The rear window T1006 and the two engine cover side windows T1003 and 

T1104 are all made from Perspex. The windows are supplied pre-formed and 

all fixing holes are pre-drilled. Position the windows into the moulding 

apertures centralise the position and tape into place. Drill through the holes in 

the Perspex to mark the glass fibre area which locates the window. Make 

sure the drill is smaller than the holes in the Perspex window. Once the 

position has been marked in the glass fibre remove the Perspex windows and 

drill through the fibreglass with a clearance hole the same size as the hole in 

the Perspex windows. You may want to paint a black band on the moulding 

around the window surround or fit a rubber strip between the Perspex and the 

rear moulding. Fix the Perspex windows in place with the stainless steel 

fittings in the Perspex fixing pack T1108. 

WINDSCREEN AND REAR BULKHEAD SCREEN 

The windscreen and rear bulkhead screen on the Libra are both bonded to the 

monocoque using conventional bonding agents. The front screen is laminated 


and tinted and the rear screen is toughened glass. 

Windscreen and rear bulkhead screen assembly 

Although we have fitted a number of windscreens and rear bulkhead screens 

ourselves it is strongly recommended that the fitting of the two screens should 

be undertaken by a professional windscreen fitter. Using a professional 

windscreen fitter has a number of advantages. 

1. They will guarantee a fit without leakage. 

2. They will be able to offer a number of rubber trim panels to go around the 

outside edge of the glass which in turn will make a much neater job. 

3. They will be able to supply the black primer paint which is required for the 

inside edge of the screens to obscure the glue when they bond them in. 

WINDSCREEN WASHER BOTTLE PIPES AND JETS 

The Libra utilises the standard Rover Metro washer bottle, pipes and jets. 

The bottle is mounted on pre-moulded supports in the radiator ducting and the 

pipes run from the bottle through the front bulkhead of the monocoque to 

moulded positions for the two jets. 

Windscreen Washer Bottle Pipes and Jets assembly 

The standard K Series Rover screen washer bottle is secured to the top of the 

radiator ducting with three No 8 self tapping screws 12mm long. The screen 

jet tube runs under the washer bottle through the same grommet as the 

Speedo cable and across the dashboard to the two K Series Rover Metro 

screen jets. These jets fit into the bodywork on the two raised sections either 

side of the central mounting position for the bonnet. The standard K Series 'T' 

pieces are used between the two jets and the pipe down to the washer bottle. 

It is necessary to block off the rear screen wash washer pipe. Measure the 

centre of each raised section and pilot drill a hole. Open out to Ø7mm and file 

off rough edges. The jets should just push fit in to the hole. Thread the pipe 

under the wiper mechanism and out through the smaller grommet in the RHS 

of the front bulkhead. From here it connects to the washer bottle. 

WIPER MOTOR AND BLADES 


Special wiper blades T0685 are used which are provided in the kit. The arms 

are standard K Series Rover Metro. 

Wiper motor and blades assembly 

The standard K Series wiper motor 

and mechanism fits directly into the 

Libra and fits from the underside of 

the dashboard. The car has been 

designed for both left and right hand 

drives. The right hand version using 

the two marked holes one in the 

passenger side of the center and the 

other on the driver’s side. This can be 

checked by holding the wiper motor 

assembly against the outside of the 

car to make sure you’ve got the two correct holes. While the wipers are held 

against the bulkhead, make sure the marks for the holes are in the correct 

position for your donor mechanism. Using these marks on the monocoque 

drill two pilot holes for the wiper motor spigots Ø18mm clearance. 

Remove the angled rubber mountings from the K Series Rover Metro 

assembly and replace them with the wiper spigot spacers T0699. Before 

fitting the motor to the monocoque, grind the corners of the arms under the 

bulkhead slightly to prevent them catching on the monocoque. The whole 

assembly can now be bolted under the dashboard using the standard K 

Series Rover Metro washers and nuts. It may be necessary to bend the 

bracket with the rubber bung on it to obtain a nice fit under the dashboard 

against the bulkhead. If your electrics are fitted it is advisable to run the wiper 

motor to make sure that it does not catch as it rotates against the glass fibre 

of the monocoque. Should it catch in any place, relieve the glass fibre to get a 

clearance. Take great care to only remove just enough glass fibre to keep the 

strength of the bulkhead. 

Standard Rover Metro K Series wiper arms are used with the larger blades 

T0685 provided within the kit. It is possible to bend the standard Rover Metro 

arms at their ends nearest the fitment to the wiper blade to obtain a better 

sweep of the screen. 


ELECTRONICS & WIRING 

WIRING……………………………………………………………...9.2 

Wiring for K series Rover Metro………………….9.2 

Wiring for Rover 25…………………………………9.2 

Assembly for Rover 25…………………………….9.2 

WIRING LOOM, INSTRUMENTS & FUSE BOX………………9.3 

Assembly…………………………………………….9.3 


Wiring 

The Libra utilises the K Series Rover Metro or the Rover 100 wiring loom 

instruments and fuse boxes. Auxiliary wiring looms are used at the front, 

through the tunnel and at the back. The standard K Series Rover Metro 

dashboard loom is retained. The colours used are those in the K Series 

Rover Metro loom. The central auxiliary loom runs from under the dashboard 

forward through the front bulkhead of the monocoque and through the tunnel 

to the back of the car. Both the front and rear auxiliary looms unplug to 

enable the front and rear panels to be removed completely with their own 

wiring looms attached. The standard Rover Metro steering column/Rover 100 

steering column and switchgear is retained on the Libra. No wires run through 

the passenger compartment. 

When utilising the GTM instrument pack the standard Rover Metro dashboard 

loom is discarded and a new loom provided with the instrument pack replaces 

it and plugs into the standard Rover Metro loom. 

When using a modern K Series engine it will be necessary to fit a 5AS 

immobiliser. This immobiliser requires a separate auxiliary loom which runs 

from the rear of the car to the front of the car with the immobiliser positioned 

under the dashboard for weather protection. When utilising the latest K Series 

engine with MEMS 3 units it is necessary to use an auxiliary loom to 

supplement the Rover 25 loom in the engine bay. This auxiliary loom plugs 

into the standard GTM loom. 

Wiring for Rover 25 Engines. 


Unfortunately the Rover 25 engine bay-wiring loom does not include the relay 

pack as on all other Rover cars. It is therefore necessary to produce an 

additional harness with relays and fuses to supplement the original Rover 25 

engine bay harness. This additional harness TO904 fits within the engine bay 

alongside the original Rover 25 engine bay harness. The new harness 

connects into the original Rover 25 engine bay harness and connects into the 

5AS loom as provided by GTM. The MEMS 3 ECU and the 5AS unit have to 

be matched for them to work. If the units do not come off the same car this 

can be undertaken by GTM Cars Ltd. The rear oxygen sensor as used on the 

Rover 25 is not used on the GTM. 

Assembly 

Consult drawing No 27. The ECU, relays and fuses associated with the 

engine mount onto the bulkhead immediately behind the passenger seat. 

Connect the ECU to the Rover engine bay wiring loom. Connect the ECU to 

the GTM auxiliary engine bay wiring loom. The connections to the GTM loom 

and the Rover loom are all made just in front of the gearbox/engine mounting 

inside the engine frame. Before screwing the ECU, fuse box and relay box to 

the bulkhead, check that the wires will reach the appropriate connections. 

Secure the ECU, relay box and fuse box to the rear of the bulkhead. Connect 

the large diameter brown wire to the live side of the starter solenoid i.e. the 

side to which the main red battery lead is connected. 

Referring to the circuit information in the manual with regard to wiring 

connections for the MEMS 3 engines, connect the wires together. It will be 

necessary to terminate the wires on the Rover 25 loom after removing the 

connectors. These terminals are supplied within the auxiliary wiring pack. 

The manual under the heading Rover 25 connection details indicates which 

connectors have to be removed and terminals fitted. 

For example wire number one rev counter drive is black/white in the MEMS 3 

loom and connects to the black/white in the GTM 5AS loom. Wire number 

eleven ignition warning light is brown/yellow in the GTM 5AS loom and 

connects to the brown/yellow in the Rover 25 engine bay loom. Following this 

example connect the wires together down to number seventeen. The only 

other wire that may cause confusion is wire six which is a large diameter 

brown wire in the MEMS 3 loom and this has to be connected to the large 

diameter wire in the standard GTM loom. 

When everything else is completed and the engine runs satisfactorily it is best 

to insulate all these connections with insulation tape. Then secure the loom 

with tie wraps in appropriate places. 

WIRING LOOM, INSRUMENTS AND FUSE BOX 

The Libra utilises the K Series Rover Metro wiring loom instruments and fuse 

boxes. Auxiliary wiring looms are used at the front through the tunnel and at 

the back. The standard K Series dashboard loom is retained. The colour 

codes used are those of the K Series Rover Metro. The rear auxiliary loom 


uns from under the dashboard forward through the front bulkhead of the 

monocoque and through the tunnel to the back of the car. Both the front and 

rear auxiliary looms unplug to enable the front and rear panels to be removed 

complete with their own lamp wiring looms. By using its own wiring loom at 

the back and making connections under the dashboard the completed car is 

very neatly wired. 

The standard Rover Metro steering column switchgear is retained within the 

Libra. No wires run through the passenger compartment. 

Wiring loom and electrical component assembly 

Consult drawing No 27. Lay your K Series Rover Metro wiring loom out on 

the floor and identify the basic layout. The main body of the layout runs 

across the car inside the dashboard. This part of the layout has the fuse box 

attached to it and the plugs for the steering column switches and the 

dashboard loom. The fuse box is on driver’s side of the car. Running forward 

from this loom on either side of the car are two legs which, on the standard 

car run forward to the lights on either side of the car. They can be identified 

by a large grommet on either leg. This grommet is approximately Ø60mm. 

The grommet is used where the wiring loom goes through the front bulkhead 

of the car on the Rover Metro and is used in exactly the same manner on the 

Libra. 

On the passenger side of the car just before the wiring loom goes through the 

large grommet there is also a leg of the wiring loom which on the standard 

Rover Metro runs down the passenger side of the car to the rear of the car. 

This leg of the wiring loom has approximately 40 wires in it. This rear leg 

leaves the wiring loom that goes across the dashboard at a junction and then 

approximately 100mm from the junction spurs leave the wiring loom with black 

plugs on them which on the standard Rover Metro are used for the electric 

windows and central locking. A further 120mm along there is a purple and 

white lead approximately 200mm long that has a single spade connection. 

After this lead allow approximately 100mm and cut the wiring loom at this 

point all the way through the 40 wires. The rear end of the wiring loom is not 

used at all on the Libra. 

As on the standard K Series Metro the legs of the front wiring looms run 

through the bulkhead of the Libra through the standard grommets and down 

towards the head lights on either side. A small auxiliary wiring loom is used 

on the Libra to wire the head lights etc and then comes through a grommet on 

the passenger side of the car in the radiator ducting to a plug to enable the 

bonnet to be removed without having to undo all the head light wiring etc. The 

main auxiliary loom on the Libra connects to the standard wiring loom on the 

passenger side of the dashboard through the standard grommet on the 

passenger side and then connects to the standard wiring loom at several 

points before going through the tunnel to the rear of the car. At the rear of the 

car the Libra wiring loom connects to all the auxiliary equipment and then 

through to the back passenger side of the car where it is plugged into another 

auxiliary wiring loom which runs to the lights at the rear of the car to enable 


the rear panel of the car to be removed without the necessity of undoing all 

the electrical wires to the lights. 

Hole saw the two Ø60mm holes in the front bulkhead in the position indicated 

on the drawing. These holes take the standard Rover Metro grommet. Clean 

them up with production paper to obtain a good seal as any water running off 

the screen will run directly over them. Cut the small hole adjacent to the fuse 

box mounting as shown on the diagram. Hole saw the Ø45mm hole to the left 

of the steering column as shown on the diagram. Drill two Ø4mm clearance 

holes on the top flange of the dashboard in the position shown on the diagram 

and indicated on the moulding by the two small depressions. Very carefully 

centre drill the two holes on the front face of the dashboard which align up 

with the two holes just previously drilled. This will enable a screwdriver to go 

up through the front of the dashboard to fit the instrument pack. Open up 

these holes to the shape indicated by the depression on the dashboard. Do 

this work very carefully; it will be seen when completed. 

Loosely lay the cable forms in the car in the position previously described to 

make sure that everything roughly fits in the right position. Start under the 

dashboard with the fuse box which comes from the standard Rover Metro and 

fits from the underside of the dashboard and is located by two No 8 self 

tapping screws. The main body of the wiring loom runs in front of the heater 

and across to the passenger side. The wires for the switchgear on the 

steering column run through the Ø45mm hole previously cut along with the 

wires for the brake light switch and throttle off normal switch. 

The instrument pack has its own auxiliary wiring loom which in turn connects 

into the standard Rover Metro loom at a point adjacent to the fuse box where 

there are two plugs one large black and one small with only two wires. 

Another plug which is attached to the instrument pack wiring loom runs 

through the small Ø25mm hole previously cut next to the fuse box and the 

wires connect directly into the fuse box on the under side. The fuse box 

should be mounted with the large red relay to the outside rear portion of the 

car. Wires from the steering column also connect directly into the bottom of 

the fuse box. 

There will be many wires and connectors associated with facilities used on the 

K Series Rover Metro that are not used on the Libra. For example the electric 

windows, central locking etc. At this stage do not do anything with these extra 

wires. Run the front legs of the wiring loom through the Ø60mm holes 

previously made in the bulk head and lay the two legs down the inside face of 

the radiator ducting mould. 

Lay the large GTM Libra wiring loom on the floor and attach to it at either end 

the auxiliary looms that are used for the bonnet and boot cable runs. The 

bonnet cable run can easily be identified as it has the connectors on it to fit 

into the headlight bulbs and the driving light bulbs. The rear cable run only 

has wires out to attach to the rear lights. By connecting up these cable runs it 

easily identifies the front and rear of the wiring loom. Halfway down the wiring 

loom you will find the connectors which are used for the petrol tank sender, 


petrol tank pump and handbrake. Disconnect the front and rear auxiliary 

cable runs and position the main GTM Libra cable run through the tunnel out 

under the front of the battery mounting mould. At the rear the cables run 

above the petrol tank down the passenger leg of the engine frame with the 

connector for the auxiliary wiring loom approximately 150mm from the end of 

the leg. 

Working within the passenger side front wheel arch hole saw a Ø40mm hole 

in the position shown on the drawing. This hole is to allow the bonnet 

auxiliary wiring loom through into the radiator ducting mould. The connector 

for the junction to the main Libra wiring harness is positioned just inside the 

radiator ducting. 

The Libra wiring loom comes out of the center of the battery mounting and up 

the passenger side to the point where the bonnet moulding comes through the 

radiator ducting and it plugs in at that point. The harness then splits, one half 

goes inside of the passenger radiator ducting and in through the standard 

grommet to a point inside the monocoque where it is joined to the previously 

cut off standard K Series wiring loom. The leg that goes up into the 

monocoque can easily be identified because it has 5 unterminated wires plus 

a black wire with a 6mm ring connector. All these wires are fed through the 

standard Rover large grommet. The other leg of the Libra cable harness runs 

across the top of the radiator and down the other side of the radiator ducting 

mould. 

Now that the wiring harness is in its approximate position start connecting 

them up from the dashboard. Connect up the standard K Series dashboard 

wiring harness to the instrument pod and the switches on either side of the 

instrument display. Connect up the two connectors that connect the 

dashboard loom to the main K Series harness. Connect up the long white 

connector on the dashboard harness to the bottom of the fuse block through 

the hole previously made. Run the legs of the main wiring harness that 

connect to the switchgear on the steering column through the previously made 

hole and connect up to the switchgear. Connect up the leg of the steering 

column switchgear to the underside of the fusebox, run the wire for the throttle 

off normal switch if fitted and the brake light switch through the same hole as 

the wires going to the steering column and connect up. It may be necessary 

on certain models to extend the wires off the brake light switch (green and 

green/purple) to get sufficient length to reach the switch on the pedal box. 

Connect up all the white connectors on the main K Series loom under the 

dashboard to the top face of the fusebox. 

On the passenger side of the dashboard connect the five wires of the Libra 

main wiring loom, cut off wires from the standard K Series rear wiring loom. 

The colours follow through from the standard K Series wiring loom to the Libra 

wiring loom. Unfortunately there are two green/purple wires in the K Series 

wiring harness and it is necessary to join these two together before 

connecting to the green/purple wire in the GTM harness. Similarly there are 

two grey/black wires in the K Series harness and the wire required is the one 

that connects through to handbrake warning light in the dashboard. Bus 


through the wire to the handbrake warning light and connect it to the 

grey/black wire in the GTM harness. The five wires can be connected using 

the white connector provided in the kit. The remaining wires in the K Series 

wiring harness should be capped off using the heat shrink insulating material 

provided. This material is best shrunk into position using a hot air blower. 

Attach the black earth ring connector on the GTM wiring harness to the black 

earth ring connector on the K Series Rover wiring harness and insulate with 

insulating tape. 

All the other wires and connectors on the K Series wiring harness are not 

used and therefore should be tie wrapped back onto the harness in a neat 

manner to prevent them shorting or rattling under the dashboard. 

Working within the radiator ducting on the passenger side, connect up the 

black heater blower unit connector from the K Series Rover Metro wiring 

harness. Connect the large black connector just in front of the heater blower 

unit to the mating connector on the Libra wiring harness. Further down the K 

Series harness towards the front drivers side of the car is the main heavy duty 

fuse block assembly. This assembly will already be attached to the K Series 

harness. In the standard car the main power feed to the engine management 

cable harness goes directly into the main fuse box at this point. If you 

received your car parts from a salvage company it is more than likely that they 

will have removed the engine wiring loom from the main fuse box by cutting 

the brown wire at this point. If it has not been cut then cut it to separate the 

engine management harness from the main K Series wiring harness and join 

in to the brown lead coming from the new Libra wiring loom using the 

connector provided within the kit. 

Connect through the connector on the new Libra wiring loom to the connector 

protruding through the radiator ducting that supplies the headlight harness. At 

this point you will see that there is a main black earthing block on the K Series 

harness and a 6mm earthing ring on the Libra loom. Loosely connect these 

two wires together plus a black wire provided in the kit and connect back to 

the battery earthing terminal. 

Connect the orange/green and green connector on the Libra harness to the 

thermostat on the passenger side of the radiator. 

Connect the purple/black and black wires coming out of the Libra harness to 

the horn. Connect the black and green/red leads from the Libra harness to 

the black and green/red leads coming from the K Series harness. 

Now moving to the top centre of the radiator connect through the black 

connector with the three wires going into it from the GTM harness to the 

mating connector on the K Series harness. At the same point connect 

through the two white wires to the two white wires in the GTM harness and the 

two black and white wires to the two black and white wires in the GTM 

harness. These wires are for the coil on the 1400cc engines and are not used 

on the 1600cc and 1800cc engines using the 5AS harness. It is however 


important that the two white wires in the Metro harness are joined together 

and the two black and white wires in the Metro harness are joined together. It 

is not necessary to connect these wires to the GTM harness. Put the plug in 

to the radiator fan on the K Series harness. 

Starting where the K Series Rover Metro cable harness comes through the 

bulkhead on the driver's side run the harness down along the side of the 

radiator ducting to the front driver's side of the car. The first arm of the cable 

harness with the black and black/white spade connector goes to the top of the 

brake hydraulic reservoir. The other leg of this spur with the black connector 

on it goes to the wiper motor which is positioned within the monocoque on the 

Libra and hence has to go through the bulkhead adjacent to the main wiring 

harness grommet and through to the plug on the wiper motor. A grommet is 

provided for this purpose and an appropriate size hole needs to be made in 

the front bulkhead. Here again it is extremely important to clean the hole 

properly with production paper to prevent leaks through this grommet. 

The next two red and black connectors plug into the pumps on the front of the 

standard K Series washer bottle which is mounted to the top of the radiator 

ducting mould. 

The next connector on the K Series harness is a black earth connector and 

this should be joined to the end of the Libra harness that has come across the 

top of the radiator to the black wire with a 6mm ring connector. Join loosely at 

this stage. 

Connect the green/white and black spade connectors on the standard 

harness through to the green/white and black connectors on the Libra 

harness. 

The next connector on the standard K series harness is the connector that 

goes to the dim/dip unit. Connect this to the dim/dip unit and leave. Now 

working towards the end of the K Series harness coming up the side of the 

radiator there is a black connector which connects through to a black 

connector on the Libra harness. Connect through the two spade connectors 

from the standard harness to the Libra harness in the same vicinity. 

All the wires are now connected and require neatening together. The 

mounting of the horn main switch block and the dim/dip unit can be 

undertaken once the cable harness has determined the position. Remember 

that the mountings should miss the spare wheel when in position. 

Follow through the wiring harness as it goes through the tunnel from the front 

to the back of the car. Halfway down the wiring harness there are connectors 

for the petrol gauge sender unit and fuel pump mounted in the tank. Also in 

this position two wires come of the harness to go into the car for the 

handbrake off warning light system. 

The wiring harness comes over the top of the petrol tank and immediately as it 

exits there are four black leads that are connected by an 8mm ring connector 


to the same bolt on the gearbox that the main earth connector from the battery 

connects to. 

There are two black and white leads and two white leads that connect to the 

coil. 

PEDAL BOX & GEAR CHANGE 

BRAKE LINES……………………………………………………...10.2 

GEAR CHANGE……………………………………………………10.2 

Gear change assembly……………………………..10.2 

HAND BRAKE LEVER CABLES & CALLIPERS……………...10.3 

Assembly – Rover 220i or 420…………………….10.3 

Assembly – MGF………………………………….…10.4 

PEDAL BOX & MASTER CYLINDER…………………………..10.5 

Assembly…………………………………………….10.5 


STEERING RACK & COLUMN………………………………….10.5 

THROTTLE PEDAL……………………………………………….10.6 

BRAKE LINES 

Assembly…………………………………………….10.6 

The Kunifor brake pipes pack T1100 are bendable by hand without any 

special tooling. The longest pipe in the pack is run from the rear bulkhead 

through to the master cylinder on the front end. Refer to drawing No 15 and 

mark on the monocoque where the ‘T’ piece sits on the front and rear 

bulkheads. The ‘T’ pieces can be found in fastener pack T1112 (). Drill a 

Ø6mm hole for the ‘T’ piece and use fastener pack T1112 (C) to bolt the front 

‘T’ piece with the bolt at the top and the rear ‘T’ piece with the bolt at the 

bottom. Take two flexible brake brackets T1106 and position them as in 

drawing No 15. Mark the pilot holes and drill to Ø6mm clearance. Bolt the 

two brackets in to place using fastener pack T1112 (). 

Take the front flexible brake pipes 

T1102 and unscrew the nut off the 

end. Slot the threaded end of the 

flexible brake pipe from the outer side 

of the bracket. Lock this in to place 

with the nut. Bend one of the three 

short solid brake lines to fit between 

the ‘T’ piece and the bracket T1106. A 

suggested way to bend the brake 

pipes is shown in drawing No 15. Try 

to bend the pipes at right angles to 

make a neater job. Once the brake 

pipe is bent, screw the other end in to the ‘T’ piece. Repeat on the other side 

at the front end. When both brake pipes are screwed into the ‘T’ piece, 

tighten the nuts to ensure there will be no leaking of brake fluid. 


At the rear take the longest 

brake pipe and screw it in to the 

bottom thread of the ‘T’ piece. 

Feed the pipe in to the tunnel 

taking car to bend it as close to 

the monocoque as you can. 

Feed it through the tunnel 

making sure it goes above the 

gear change front support 

T0404. At the front of the tunnel 

it bends up to the master 

cylinder. Take the third short 

piece of solid brake pipe and 

bend it as shown in drawing No 15. Drill Ø6mm holes for the remaining 

flexible brake brackets T1106 and bolt them on using fastener pack T1112 (). 

Once all the brackets are tight and each end of the brake pipes is screwed 

together, p clips must be used to secure the brake pipes against the 

monocoque. Start by securing the pipe through the tunnel. The p clips are 

provided in fastener pack T1112 (H) and the nuts, bolts and washers are in 

fastener pack T1112 (D). The brake pipe should run down the RHS of the 

tunnel and have four p clips evenly spaced along the length of the tunnel. 

Refer to drawing No 8 for the exact position in the tunnel. Take care to keep 

the brake pipe away from the gear change so that it will not fowl. Mark the 

positions of the four p clips and drill Ø4mm holes. Put a bolt and washer on 

the fibre glass side of the monocoque and a washer and Nyloc nut on the gel 

coat side of the tunnel. 

On the front and rear bulkheads position p clips roughly where drawing No 15 

suggests. Drill holes Ø3.5mm for the self tapping screws in fastener pack 

T1112 (A). Double check all joins in the brake pipes are secure and tight. 

Tighten all the p clips so that the pipes are secure to the monocoque. 

Heat Shield 

A heat shield is necessary to 

protect the brake fluid in the brake 

pipes from getting too hot. The 

heat shield provided T0693 is glued 

to the monocoque using a contact 

adhesive. There is an aperture in 

the rear bulkhead to show where 

the heat shield should roughly go. 


GEAR CHANGE 

The gear change on the GTM Libra is purpose designed for the mid engine 

configuration. It runs from the gear change in the front of the car through the 

tunnel under the petrol tank and engine to a pivot assembly attached to the 

engine frame. It utilises certain parts from the standard K Series Rover Metro 

gear change and therefore requires a K Series Rover Metro gear change in 

exchange. The gate remains the same as a standard K Series Rover Metro. 

Gear Change assembly. 

Consult drawing No 18. Mark out the hole for the gear lever and drill the four 

corners. With a jigsaw or by chain drilling, cut out the hole. Refer back to 

drawing No 18 and mark the position of the three holes to hold the gear 

change mounting bracket T0404. Pilot drill the three holes and open to Ø6mm 

clearance. Use fastener pack T0403 (H) to secure the bracket. The gear 

change assembly used on the Libra comes completely modified from GTM 

Cars Ltd and it is only necessary to push the front pivot through the standard 

K Series mounting at the front and attach the pivot bar at the back to the 

engine frame. This pivot bar at the back utilises the standard K Series Rover 

Metro bushes. Now attach the two link rods to the gearbox one of which has 

been modified by GTM Cars Ltd. 

By adjusting the length of these link rods it should be easy to obtain the 

appropriate gate in the gear change. 

Check that everything runs freely under the car and that the gear change is 

not rubbing up or hitting against any of the pipe work through the tunnel. 

HANDBRAKE LEVER CABLES AND CALLIPERS 

The GTM Libra utilises the Rover 220i or 420 rear callipers or the MGF rear 

callipers. When using the Rover 220i or 420 rear callipers, the handbrake 


cables and handbrake lever are used off the same car. When using the MGF 

rear callipers special cables are used plus the handbrake lever of the Rover 

220i or 420. The callipers bolt to the standard Rover Metro front hub 

assembly employed at the back of the lever. With the Rover 220i or 420 rear 

callipers special adapter plates are provided in the kit to facilitate this. With 

the MGF calliper these bolt directly to the hub without the adapter plate but 

using 2 special eccentric bushes. The cables run from the callipers over the 

petrol tank and into the driving compartment. The handbrake lever is 

mounted to the tunnel, the outer cable mounting from the Rover 220i or 420 is 

also utilised next to the lever. When using the Rover 220i or 420 callipers or 

the MGF callipers, the rear disc utilised from the front disc of the Rover Metro 

has to be reduced in thickness. This is done on an exchange basis by GTM 

Cars Ltd. 

Handbrake lever cables and callipers assembly – Rover 220i or 420. 

There are two drawings at the end of this manual relating to this paragraph, 

No 13&14. The standard Rover 220/420 rear callipers are fitted to the 

standard K Series Rover Metro front hub assemblies via an adapter plate 

T1107. This is shown on the center drawing at the rear of this manual. The 

adapter plate T1107 is attached to the hub via two Ø14mm 2mm pitch 20mm 

long socket cap head screws. To accept the screws, the holes in the K Series 

hubs that originally attached the K Series callipers have to be tapped out 

appropriately. Fortunately the tapping size hole for the 14mm thread is the 

hole already in the K Series hub. It is therefore only necessary to tap out the 

holes in the callipers. Should you have difficulty in obtaining a suitable 

tap one is available from GTM Cars LTD on a loan basis. 

So that T1107 can fit flush against the rear face of the Rover Metro hub it is 

necessary to fettle (grind or file) the face of the hub casting. Clear away all 

metal that prevents T1107 fitting flush against the hub face. Using the two 

Ø14 x 2 x 20mm long socket cap head screws provided in pack T1110 attach 

the carrier T1107 to the hub. 

The Rover 220/420 calliper is attached to the adapter plate T1107 via two 

spacers T1108. It may be necessary to fettle the side face of the Rover Metro 

hub slightly to enable the spacer to sit squarely on the adapter plate T1107. 

By placing the Ø10mm bolt through the hole in T1107 and putting the spacer 

T1108 on it, the area that has to be fettled away can be clearly seen. 

On the Rover 220/420 callipers the bracket that holds the handbrake cable to 

the calliper has to be removed before the calliper can be fitted to the adapter 

plate T1107. The track control arm T0308 on the Libra has a location for the 

outer cable of the standard Rover 220/420-handbrake cable. 

The standard solid Rover K Series front disc has to be skimmed to 10mm 

thickness; this is done by GTM Cars Ltd. on an exchange basis. 

Once you are satisfied that everything fits together without interference and is 

square and true assemble the caliper and adapter T1107 to the hub using the 

bolts provided. We strongly recommend the use of lock tight or some 


similar thread locking substance when finally locking up these bolts. 

Now mount up the Rover 220/420handbrake 

lever to the tunnel as 

illustrated on the appropriate drawing 

in the rear of this manual. Start by 

marking out all the holes needed and 

drill them all before anything is run 

through the tunnel. 

Attach the Rover 220/420 standard 

handbrake lever to the top of the Libra 

tunnel in the position shown on the 

drawing using two Ø8mm set bolts 

20mm long and on the inside of the tunnel T1110. Make sure that the 

handbrake lever is central to the tunnel. 

Attach T1105 handbrake cable mounting bracket to the top of the tunnel in the 

position shown on the diagram using two Ø6 x 20mm long set bolts, washers 

and Nyloc nuts. The Rover 220/420 standard outer cable bracket can now be 

mounted to T1105 using two Ø8 x 10mm long set bolts, washers and spring 

washers. It may be necessary on certain Rover 220/420 outer cable brackets 

to remove a certain amount of the bracket that is not required. 

The two holes can now be drilled in the tunnel of the monocoque to allow the 

cables to run through over the petrol tank. By carefully elongating these holes 

it is possible to fit the standard Rover 220/420 handbrake cable grommets 

neatly into the top of the monocoque tunnel. 

The cables run over the top of the petrol tank, over the top of the top 

wishbones to the outer cable-mounting bracket on the rear steering arm 

T0308/9, T0308 being drivers side. The cables are secured to the top of the 

top wishbone T0300 using two 10mm P clips per side and No 10 self tapping 

screws. The handbrake can now be adjusted in the normal manner and 

should work satisfactorily. 

Handbrake callipers MGF. 

The MGF handbrake callipers are utilised at the rear of the GTM in exactly the 

same way as the Rover 220i or 420 callipers. The callipers are attached to 

the hub without the use of an adapter plate but with the use of two eccentric 

bushes. These two eccentric bushes fit into enlarged holes that are used for 

the existing callipers at the front of the K Series Rover Metro. The two holes 

that hold the two front callipers on the Metro have to be enlarged to Ø17mm. 

This drills out easily but should you not have a Ø17mm drill GTM will be happy 

to drill them out for you. With the two eccentric bushes T1115 fitted into these 

Ø17mm holes and positioned such as to give the largest spaces between the 

two Ø10mm holes within the bushes the MGF callipers will bolt onto the Metro 

hub without alteration. When using the MGF callipers special cables T0114a 

must be used which are obtainable from GTM. The rest of the assembly is 

similar to the previously described assembly for the Rover 220i or 420 rear 

callipers. 


PEDAL BOX AND MASTER CYLINDER 

The Libra uses the standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box assembly, 

complete with master cylinder and vacuum assist servo. The assembly 

mounts in exactly the same manner as used in the K Series Rover Metro. 

Specially designed clutch and brake pedals are provided in the kit and mount 

onto the pedal box assembly in the same manner as the K Series Rover 

Metro. 

Pedal Box and Master Cylinder assembly 

The standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box comes apart very simply and 

should cause you little problem. If you do incur a problem, refer to drawing No 

12&34. While everything is disassembled, any modifications should be done 

for example fitting the hydraulic clutch. If the hydraulic clutch is to be fitted it 

is much easier to machine the plate when it is separated from the rest of the 

assembly. Use the plate to line up the indents in the monocoque to the 

mounting holes in the plate. Mark any misalignments and remove the plate. 

Drill the two holes that line up with the self captivating nuts to Ø8mm. The 

three other holes need to be drilled to Ø6mm clearance. The bottom left hand 

hole needs to be drilled to Ø5mm and a Ø6mm self tapper used because it 

goes through into the thick fibre glass. Remove the brake and clutch pedals 

and take out the plastic top hat section bearings. Replace these bearings in 

the specially designed brake and clutch pedals obtained in the kit and reassemble 

the pedal box in the same manner as it would be with the standard 

pedals. When rebuilding the K Series Rover Metro pedal box do not use the 

brake pedal return spring. 

Once the pedal box is assembled, mount it to the monocoque. Push the 

mounting bolts and washers through from the outside of the monocoque and 

secure with washers and Nyloc nuts on the inside of the monocoque. The two 

Ø8mm bolts use washers on the inside only and mount from the inside of the 

monocoque outwards. 

The standard Rover K Series pedal rubbers fit straight onto the new brake and 

clutch pedals. The brake and clutch pedal pads are also drilled to accept after 

market brake and clutch pedal pads. 

A support goes from the standard Rover pedal box to the underside of the 

dashboard as shown in manual drawings. 

The support TO616 bolts through an existing hole in the pedal box and to the 

underside of the dashboard. The support is located with two Ø8mm set 

screws 25mm long with Ø8mm washers and Nyloc nuts. 


STEERING RACK AND COLUMN 

The Libra uses the standard Metro steering column bolted directly to the 

bottom of the structural dashboard. The steering column is spaced off the 

bottom of the dashboard using two TO618 at the top and two TO617 at the 

bottom. The bottom link between the two universal joints is lengthened on 

exchange by GTM. Once lengthened, this link bolts directly to the steering 

rack. The steering rack used by the Libra is a standard Metro L.H.D. steering 

rack, which bolts directly to the monocoque through the horizontal front panel. 

The steering rack is held off the monocoque by two 3mm spacers which allow 

for any final adjustment. Spreader plates are used under the clamping bolts 

inside the monocoque. In a similar manner to the Metro, two bolts and a 

standard Metro clamp are used at one end and are held with a special U bolt 

provided in the kit. The track rod ends used on the Libra are the standard 

Metro track rod ends and not the GTA GTi track rod ends. The track rod ends 

are fitted to the steering rack in the standard manner once the special steering 

rack extenders have been fitted to the steering rack. These extenders are 

screwed and lock bolted to the steering rack. 

THROTTLE PEDAL 

The throttle pedal used on the GTM Libra is specially designed for the Libra. 

It mounts on the side of the standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box as 

shown in the diagram. 

Throttle Pedal Assembly 

The throttle pedal T0704 mounts through an existing captive Ø8mm nut on the 

side of the standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box. Using a standard Ø8 x 

50mm long bolt, mount the throttle pedal to the K Series Rover Metro pedal 

box with two standard washers either side the throttle pedal and lock off the 

Ø8mm bolts on the inside of the pedal box to prevent it coming undone with a 

standard Ø8mm nut. Make sure that the throttle pedal runs freely and grease 

the bearing surfaces. 

Mount the throttle cableT0701 and switch bracket T0703 to the standard K 

Series pedal box as shown on the drawing using one Ø8 x 20mm long set bolt 

and Ø8mm washer. This bolt bolts through into the capped nut already on the 

pedal box assembly. The bracket mounts the 'throttle off' normal switch if you 

are using an early 1400cc GTi engine. It also forms a stop for the throttle 

pedal and mounts up the throttle cable. There are two holes for the throttle 

cable to go through and choose the one that matches the movement on your 

throttle body. 

The throttle cable T 0701 runs under the driver’s side carpet from the throttle 

pedal down the side of the sill and through the box section that supports the 

front edge of the seat runners. The cable then goes across to the corner of 

the floor where it meets the petrol tank moulding approximately 40mm from 

the side of the tank towards the centre of the car. The cable then runs under 

the engine up and across to the throttle body. It is extremely important that the 


throttle runs freely and make sure that you have not got any tight bends or 

restrictions to the cable. On the throttle there is a small hole to enable you to 

fit a spring between it and the old throttle off normal switch bracket attached to 

the standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box assembly. The standard Rover 

spring is appropriate. 


EXHAUST 

EXHAUST……………………………………………………….11.2 

Exhaust system assembly……………………..11.2 


EXHAUST 

The exhaust system on the Libra utilises the standard Rover Metro manifold. 

After the manifold, the exhaust system is all purpose designed in stainless 

steel. The exhaust system mounts directly to the engine gearbox assembly 

and not to any other framework on the car. The exhaust system has a small 

flexible section to take out the stresses generated by the expansion of the 

stainless steel. The exhaust system is so designed to allow the standard K 

Series Rover Metro catalyst to be fitted should the customer wish, or this can 

be replaced by a special pipe of the same dimension as the catalyst. The 

silencer itself is straight through and has a stainless steel heat shield around it 

to prevent the boot on the Libra becoming warm. 

Exhaust system assembly 

Refer to drawing No 31. Mount the main exhaust silencer to the engine first 

with the engine mounted in the car. It is possible to maneuver the exhaust 

system through and below the main cross tube of the engine frame with care. 

On the drivers side of the car mount the exhaust system mounting brackets to 

the two Ø10mm tapped holes just to the right looking from the rear of the 

dipstick. It may be necessary to slightly bend the dipstick out of the way of the 

exhaust bracket. The exhaust is attached to the engine using two Ø10mm 

socket cap head screws 15mm long and Ø10mm washers. 

Fix the gearbox mounting bracket to the driver’s side of the exhaust system 

using the three Ø8 x 10mm long set bolts and washers. By holding the 

exhaust system horizontal and square to the car it should be clear which two 

gearbox bolts have to be removed to bolt the exhaust system to the gearbox 

on the passenger side of the car. The exhaust system can now be bolted up 

firmly on both passenger and drivers side of the car and should be horizontal 

and true to the car. 

Mount the stainless steel pipe with the flexible portion in it to the standard K 

Series Rover Metro manifold using the gasket provided T1202 and some 

exhaust paste. The standard K Series Rover Metro catalyst can now be fitted 

between the two stainless steel plates of the exhaust system or alternatively 

the stainless steel pipe provided in the kit. Use one of the gaskets T1202 

provided on either side of the stainless steel plate at both ends and attach at 

the driver’s side using Ø10 x 13mm long set bolts, nuts and washers and 

paste. Now attach the ‘U’ section stainless steel between the end of the 

catalyst pipe and the silencer itself using gaskets and paste. The new pipe 

attaches to the silencer using the same Ø10 x 30mm long set bolts. Tighten 

all bolts securely and when the engine is running check for any leaks. 


SETTING UP THE CAR FOR THE ROAD 

Suspension adjustments………………………………………..12.2 

The steering rack………………………………………………….12.3 

On the road…………………………………………………………12.4 


SETTING UP THE CAR FOR THE ROAD 

The front suspension of the GTM Libra utilises two unequal length wishbones 

on either side. These wishbones are attached to the monocoque through 

mounting brackets with shims. The camber angle of the front wheels can 

therefore be adjusted to the required angle. A small amount of castor angle 

adjustment is possible by fitting different size shims to the front or rear of any 

wishbones. The front upside down shock absorbers have adjustable spring 

seats for ride height and adjustable damping settings. Different spring rates 

can be obtained from the factory. 

The rear suspension uses two trailing wishbones at either side. Refer to 

drawing No 25. These wishbones have adjustable ends and therefore the 

camber angle can be adjusted. The coil over shock absorber unit has 

adjustable spring seat and adjustable damper settings. 

By carefully following the instructions below the amateur builder should be 

capable of setting the car to the standard setting advised by the factory. 

Suspension Adjustments 

The car suspension adjustment can not be undertaken until the car is fully 

built and all the weight associated with the build is on the suspension. 

The track on the front and the rear of the car is the same and therefore by 

using the front suspension as a guide and a suitable straight edge along the 

side of the car it is possible to set the suspension approximately in the right 

position. At this stage set the rear camber angle at 0 degrees i.e. with the 

wheel vertical to the ground. 

At this stage the sides of the sill can be used as a good guide as to the 

position of the rear wheels side to side. 

Make yourself a ride height gauge by cutting a piece of wood or other suitable 

material to a size 5″ in one direction and 5 ½ ″ in the other direction. The 5″ 

represents the ride height under the front and rear parts of the sill when the 

car is fully loaded with passenger and driver and the 5 ½ ″ represents the 

height under the same position without the driver and passenger. All settings 

can be made to the suspension geometry at the 5 ½ ″ ride height. 

Adjust the adjustable shock absorbers to the minimum setting and adjust the 

adjustable spring height on the shock absorber to give you the 5 ½ ″ required at 

the front and rear corners of either side sills. 

The car should now be capable of being pushed around to enable you to find 

a suitable flat area on which to adjust the suspension more accurately. The 

area you choose must be as flat as you can possibly find. 

With the car on the most level piece of ground you can find check the heights 

of the two front wheels relative to each other with a spirit level and a straight 

bar placed on the ground between the two. It is possible to pack up one side 

of the car relative to the other using newspaper or magazines to get two 

wheels exactly level to each other. The same can be repeated at the back of 

the car to get the two rear wheels exactly level with each other. The relative 

positions of the back wheels relative to the front are not particularly important 

and therefore need not be adjusted. 


With the car level and in its final position recheck the ride heights to 5 ½ ″ 

taking into account any packing materials you may have used on the wheels. 

The Steering Rack 

Start at the front of the car. Before any adjustment can be made to the tow-in 

at the front of the car it is necessary to determine the central position in the 

steering rack. Moving the steering wheel to one extreme, measure the 

amount of turn to the other extreme, halving the movement and determining 

the central position can do this. Once these central positions have been 

determined mark the top of the steering wheel with some masking tape and 

check that the movement left and right is the same. Once you are sure you 

have the central position it is a good idea to put the steering wheel itself with 

its spokes in the central position so that when you drive the car it can be 

clearly seen whether it is steering correctly. 

Using a straight bar that will run from the front of the front wheel to the back of 

the rear wheel, hold the bar halfway up the wheels and adjust the tow-in on 

the wheel to give approximately a tow-in on either side of 2mm. On certain 

Metro steering racks you may find it necessary to remove a small proportion 

of the threaded end of the steering link to enable the correct adjustment to be 

obtained. This can be done using a suitable hacksaw and file. Repeat for the 

other side of the car. 

The adjustment of the camber angles for the front wheels is both covered as it 

has been found that this angle is pretty near correct straight from the factory. 

The wheels at the front should be vertical and as long as your car does not 

deviate from this measurement unduly our suggestions that you leave it at 

present and tackle any changes at a later date. Methods of making 

adjustment to the camber angle at the front are detailed at the end of this 

manual. 

Moving to the back of the car the set up is more complex. Camber angle and 

tow in are both adjustable as well as the track that the car runs at. 

The car runs with a rear camber angle of minus 1 ½ -2 degrees. This means 

that the top of the tyre leans in towards the car by 1 ½ - 2 degrees. Set the 

camber angles to be around this figure by adjusting the top wishbone 

adjusting nuts on the outside face of the wishbone. Set the tow in to be 

square with the front wheels i.e. neither towed in nor towed out. 

Referring to the diagram and looking from the back of the car set the 

dimension five 550mm on the driver's side of the car from the face of the 

casting where the drive shaft protrudes to the centre nearest bolt on the 

bottom wishbone. To obtain this adjustment it is necessary to adjust only the 

bottom wishbone with the two locking nuts on the outside ball joint and then 

re-adjust the top wishbone to obtain the correct camber angle. Working 

similarly on the passenger side adjust the distance from the face of the 

casting where the passenger side drive shaft protrudes to the centre of the 

first bolt on the bottom wishbone to 365mm. Now re-adjust the top passenger 

side wishbone to obtain the correct camber angle. 

It is difficult to measure exactly these two dimensions but try to get them as 

close as you can. An accuracy of plus or minus 2mm will be satisfactory, as 

any slight error in the track will not in any way adversely affect the handling of 


the car. Once you have set these bottom wishbones and locked up the lock 

nuts it should not be necessary to readjust them again. 

Whilst the car is situated on a level ground it is advisable to repeat the whole 

of the setting up procedure again making sure that you are satisfied that 

everything is correct. Once satisfied that everything is correct adjust the rear 

tow-in to be between 3 and 4mm at the wheel rim. This can be only be done 

by relating the back wheels to the front wheels as the wheels must be aligned 

to the car. A convenient method is to place a straight edge along the wheels 

between the front and rear and then measure the distance. 

The removal or addition of shims between the wishbone mounting brackets 

and the monocoque can obtain adjustment of the front camber angles. 

Always add the same amount of shims to the front and rear mounts of any 

one wishbone. Try to minimise the amount of changes you make by reducing 

the shims on the top wishbone and increasing the shims on the bottom 

wishbone for instance rather than just increasing the shims on the bottom 

wishbone. Any changes made here of course will necessitate the rear 

adjustment of the tow-in of the front wheels. 

On the road 

Your car is now ready to be driven but before doing so please recheck all the 

safety items i.e. brakes, steering, suspension etc to make sure that you are 

absolutely sure everything is satisfactory. 

Drive the car a short distance very carefully and then return and recheck all 

safety items. Check that the water level has remained constant and that there 

are no leaks from any fluids. 

Set the front and rear shock absorbers to 10 clicks away from the minimum 

setting as a start. 

Final adjustments 

Put in rear view mirror at a suitable height. Locate GTM badges and place the 

large GTM badges on the front and rear panels of the car. Place the small 

GTM badges on the four wheels. Fit any accessories i.e. gear knob or stereo. 


NOTES, SUPPLEMENTS AND TEMPLATES 

Notes………………………………………………………………...13.2 

Notes………………………………………………………………...13.3 

Notes………………………………………………………………...13.4 

Necessary supplements and Templates 


Build Notes 


Build Notes 


Build Notes 


CABLE GEAR CHANGE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS 

The process to modify the MGF cable gear change assembly to fit into the GTM is as 

follows: 

Important: Do not fit the cables before fitting the fuel tank! 

Remove the gear lever gimbal from the MGF bracket assembly and then fit this into 

the bracket T2099 supplied from GTM using the fixings provided. Remove the 

counter weight completely as close to pivot as possible ( The pivot bolt head may 

need grinding slightly if it impedes movement in T2099 ). Drill a 4mm or 5mm hole 

in fore/aft moving plate of the MGF part approx ½ way between the spring holding 

legs on T2099. Use an M4 or M5 nut/bolt in this hole to provide the centre fixing of 

the two springs T2100 and then connect each spring to each leg on T2099. The 

springs provide the return for the gear lever to centre/neutral position. Drill a 70mm 

diameter hole, 610mm forward from datum (see location drawing supplied). The 

gearlever should be positioned in the centre of this hole and the fixing bolts to retain it 

in position should be 35mm from the top face of the tunnel. (Note: Use the bracket as 

a jig to mark the hole positions at 35mm from the top face ) 

Next remove the ball joint from the short cable at the gear box end and fit extender 

rod T2097 and then re-fit the ball joint. 

The long cable attaches to the gear lever end on the ball which is next to the springs 

and the short cable to the other ball. 

After the petrol tank has been fitted pass both cables under the tank (Note: Secure 

them to the water pipes with tie wraps). The long cable goes over the gear box and the 

short cable goes under. Fit the cables to the gear box bracket T2098 before fitting the 

bracket to gearbox. 

Finally clamp both the cables to the gear lever bracket T2099 using bracket T2096 

and using 2off MG Rover UYC 10006 clips.

Fitting Guide 

NEW SUSPENSION (Issued 10/03/05) 

Mount outside bracket T0325A using the 8 x ‘indents’ in the monocoque or using the 

pre-drilled holes from the previous bracket installation. 

*Note* Do not mount inside bracket T0324A until following further instructions. 

Assemble wishbones to both mounting brackets. In assembled state, offer up inside 

bracket T0324A to monocoque and mark and drill 8 x holes to suit. Ensure bracket is 

mounted at the same height as the previous installation or at the same height as the 

‘indents’ on the monocoque. Please see Fig 1. 

*Note* Do not use existing indents or previous holes on the ‘inside’ bracket mounting 

T0324A! 

Proceed with the rest of the installation as per manual. 

IMPORTANT 

Do not use MGF handed bottom swivel joints on the new suspension set-up with 17 

inch alloy wheels!! 

These MGF handed bottom swivel joints are only suitable with 16 inch alloy wheels 

and are not provided as part of the new suspension set-up. However, these can be 

purchased separately if required. 

T0325A 

Outside 

Bracket 

Old Indents 

New holes to be drilled 

for Inside Bracket 

T0324A.

GTM Libra - Main build manual

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