1. Bonnet and Boot fixings
2. Carpets and interior fittings
3. Exterior Panels
5. Front and Rear suspension
6. Battery, Heater, Radiator and Petrol tank
8. Windscreen and Wipers
9. Electronics and wiring
10. Pedal Box and Gear change
12. Setting up your GTM for the road
13. Notes, Supplements and Templates
© GTM CARS LTD. 0.1
BOOT AND BONNET FITTINGS
BEAM END COVERS……………………………………………1.2
BONNET AND FRONT SPLITTER MOULD…………………..1.2
BOOT, BOOTLOCK AND HINGES……………………………1.4
SPARE WHEEL MOULD AND SPARE WHEEL………………...1.6
© GTM CARS LTD. 1.1
BEAM END COVERS
Beam end covers are used at the rear of the sills to cover the mountings for
the rearward facing wishbones. These covers are non structural.
Beam End Covers Assembly
Drill two clearance holes Ø7mm through the two ends of the rebated face of
the beam end covers. Place the covers onto the ends of the sills and mark
the position of the holes previously drilled. Drill out these marks with a
tapping side drill for the self tapping screw. Attach the covers with two self
BONNET AND FRONT SPLITTER MOULD
The bonnet of the Libra pivots forward to allow access to the radiator fan,
battery and spare wheel. When it is shut it is fixed in position by five
fasteners. These fasteners hold the bonnet rigidly to the tub and prevent any
movement. A front splitter mould is fitted to the front edge of the bonnet in
front of the radiator.
Bonnet and front splitter mould assembly
This assembly should be undertaken with the radiator ducting T0107 attached
to monocoque T0100.
Drill two pilot holes from the inside of the radiator ducting T0107 in the
positions shown in the bottom front corners of the ducting. From the outside
of the radiator ducting now open these holes up with a hole saw to
approximately 20mm. Use pivot holder T0609 as a template and work from
the outside of the moulding. Drill two Ø6mm holes through the pivot holder
into the moulding with the boss of the pivot holder through the previously
drilled Ø20mm clearance hole. The pivot holder should be positioned with the
base of the triangle parallel to the base of the radiator ducting and the
hypotenuse facing the driver or passenger. Now open these four holes up to
approximately Ø15mm with a hole saw.
Working from the outside of the radiator ducting push two 6mm Nyloc nuts
and washers through the retaining plate T0608 and attach pivot holder T0609.
This assembly should now give a certain amount of adjustment up and down,
forwards and backwards and can be nipped up prior to fitting the bonnet.
Attach the three Spiro clip plates T0602 to the monocoque using 15mm long,
No 8 self tapping screws. At this stage do not insert any packing washers
between the Spiro clip plate and monocoque. Consult drawings No 19&21
© GTM CARS LTD. 1.2
and attach the two sill mounting brackets T0613 to the top of the sills using
four 15mm long No 8 self tapping screws. The positions for all these
mountings are indicated on the monocoque by small indentations. Fit five
fairing ‘U’ nuts T0615 to the brackets previously mounted to the monocoque.
In the bonnet, mark and pilot drill two holes for the fitting of the pivot bushes
T0611. Drill Ø13mm and fit the two bushes.
The bonnet can now be placed over the radiator ducting and two pivot pins
T0610 inserted from within the ducting. Insert two ‘R’ clips through the hole of
the pivot holder T0609 and pin T0610.
The position of the bonnet pins can now be adjusted by loosening the four
Ø6mm Nyloc nuts on the inside of the radiator ducting. Adjust the bottom
edge of the bonnet so that it is level with the bottom edge of the ducting. The
forwards and backward position of the bonnet can be determined by where
the bonnet fits on top of the sill. Once you are certain you have these in the
correct relative positions tighten the four Ø6mm lock nuts from within the
Pilot drill the five holes necessary for the fairing fasteners T0600 and open out
to Ø6mm clearance. The fairing fasteners can now be used and the position
of the fairing mounting brackets finally adjusted.
The front splitter mould is held in place by two bighead fasteners TO648 and
two No 8 self tapping screws. Within the centre of the rebate for the splitter
mould mark two hole positions 200mm from the centre of the car.
Drill these holes to Ø6mm. Place the splitter mould in its position and mark
through the Ø6mm holes already drilled onto the back face of the splitter
Bond two bighead fasteners TO648 to the inner face of the splitter mould in
the positions you have just marked using body filler.
Slot the Ø6mm holes drilled in the bonnet to enable the top hat studs to go
through easily and bolt up on the rear face.
Out of sight of the front of the car drill through and mount the bottom corner
with No 8 self tapping screws.
© GTM CARS LTD. 1.2
BOOT, BOOTLOCK AND HINGES
The Libra has a good size boot located at the back of the car above the
exhaust system. This boot has an external lid to allow easy access. The
boot is lockable from the outside and has its own hinging and support stay
mechanism. The boot is large enough to accept a full size set of golf clubs.
Boot, Boot lock and Hinge assembly
Refer to drawing No 20. The boot hinge mountings TO643 are mounted to
the rear panel TO102 on the small rectangular faces in the rear quarters of the
rear screen. The rear screen needs to be removed before the boot can be
From the inside of the rear screen aperture mark the four Ø6mm clearance
slots as indicated on the drawing. Use the boot hinge mounting bike back
plate TO644 as an accurate guide to the centre positions. The slots will be
covered by this component when the boot is finally assembled.
Take the boot lid TO103 and turn it upside down on some suitable clean and
protective surface. Mark the position of the four boot hinge location holes on
the outside surface of the inner strengthening frames as shown on the
diagram. Use boot hinge backing plate TO641 as an accurate guide to the
centre position and slot the holes Ø6mm clearance to give yourself sufficient
room to adjust the boot panel when assembled. Mount the two boot hinges to
the strengthening frame using four Ø6mm socket cap screws and washers
with the backing plates on the inside of the box. By loosening the screws the
boot hinges should slide for adjustment against the outside face of the
Referring to the diagram showing the view from within the boot mount the two
boot hinge mountings TO643 to the boot hinges TO640 using the boot hinge
pivot pins TO642. Note that the boot hinge mountings when attached to the
rear panel make sure the pivot pins are located as close as possible to the top
surface of the rear panel. The pivot pins require a small amount of grease to
make them work satisfactorily.
Fit the boot panel to the car. Holding the boot panel open, position the boot
hinge mounting with one hand and attach the boot hinge mounting to the rear
panel using the boot hinge mounting backing plate and four Ø6 x 25mm long
socket cap screws and washers. You may require the assistance of another
person to hold the boot open while undertaking this operation.
The boot can now be opened and closed. It can also be adjusted to give an
equal gap around the boot aperture and to line up the panels with the outside
surfaces. Take your time doing this operation, as it is extremely important for
the use of the car that the panel opens and closes without difficulty.
© GTM CARS LTD. 1.3
Mount the boot stay slider TO645 to the vertical surface of the rear boot panel
inside the boot in the position indicated on the view from within the boot. Use
the slider as a template to locate the hole positions and drill Ø6mm clearance
holes. Mount the slider to the boot panel using two 20 x Ø6mm socket cap
screws, washers and Nyloc nuts.
Fit the boot stay rod TO646 to the hole in the bottom corner of the boot hinge
and to the boot stay slider using the spring fixings TO647. Do not grease this
slider as in operation it is necessary to touch the slider to lock the boot in the
open position. By lifting the boot slightly the slider should unlock
Adjust the height of the boot stay slider to obtain the maximum boot lid
opening without the boot lid top corners hitting the rear Perspex screen.
Mount the boot latch TO652 to the outside surface of the boot panel under the
position for the number plate in the position shown on the diagram. Use the
latch to determine the position of the holes required.
Drill or hole saw Ø20mm hole in the corner of the rebate in the boot lid for the
boot latch as shown on the diagram. This is to allow the operating rod to pass
through it towards the position.
Mark the centre of the key position on the left-hand side on the boot lid within
the recess on the mouldings. Hole saw an Ø25mm hole. File the two anti
rotation notches in this hole.
Due to the increased thickness of the glass fibre body compared to the steel
body, the notches in the K Series Rover Metro lock have to be wider to enable
the retaining clip to work satisfactorily. Mount the lock in a vice and carefully
saw the door lock barrel to increase the width of the notches to approximately
4-5 mm. The lock can now be assembled to the boot using the standard
Rover Metro retaining spring.
Mount the boot latch to the boot lid using two Ø6 x 20mm long socket cap
screws, 4 large washers and 2 Nyloc nuts. Take approximately 200mm of the
door rod wire TO523 and form a 10mm long right angle bit at one end. Feed
the other end of the wire through the boot latch and through the hole in the
moulding, towards the lock on the left-hand side of the boot. With the boot
lock operating lever in the vertical position, mark the position on the wire and
cut and form a right angle bend. Connect the rod to the lock and using the
boot striker manually into the boot latch, check that the latch and team
mechanism operates correctly and freely.
Mount the boot striker TO653 to the rear panel as shown on the diagram
using two Ø6 x 20mm long socket caps, screws, washers and Nyloc nuts.
© GTM CARS LTD. 1.4
Fit the boot rubber seal TO655 to the boot aperture finishing the seal at a
position approximately 200mm either side of the position of the boot striker.
The boot can now be finally adjusted and fitted by adjusting the hinge
positions and the position of the boot striker in the boot lid. Spend some time
getting it to work perfectly so that it will not catch when in operation. Grease
the latch sparingly.
SPARE WHEEL MOULD AND SPARE WHEEL
The Libra utilises a full size spare wheel mounted in the front compartment of
the Libra. The wheel is mounted in the engine ducting above the battery. The
area inside the spare wheel is used to hold the jack tools for the Libra and
forms the battery box lid.
Spare Wheel mould and Spare Wheel assembly
There are two 6mm studs captivated into the top of the battery mounting and
these studs coincide with indentations marked on the spare wheel mould.
Drill out these indentations with a Ø6mm clearance hole and place the spare
wheel mould over the top of the battery mounting. The spare wheel mould
holds the battery in place and gives you space for a few tools. It is held in
place by two Ø6mm thumb screws.
© GTM CARS LTD. 1.5
CARPETS AND INTERIOR FITTINGS
DASHBOARD TOP AND DEMISTER VENTS……………2.4
PART TRIM PANELS OPTION ASSEMBLY……………..2.4
SEATS AND RUNNERS…………………………………….2.6
SEPARATE INSTRUMENT OPTION……………………...2.8
HARD TRIM PANELS (STANDARD KIT)………………..2.11
TRIMMING HARD PANELS………………………………..2.12
© GTM CARS LTD. 1.6
The GTM Libra comes with a comprehensive carpet pack ready cut and
bound. It comprises of seventeen individual carpet pieces. The seventeenth
being in the boot. By referring to drawing No 30, it should be possible to
identify the carpet patterns and fit them loosely into your car to see which
areas are covered by the carpet set. At this stage do not glue the carpets in
place as it is preferable to fit the soft trimming to the top of the monocoque or
the optional hard trim panels before fitting the carpet set. This is to ensure
any glue that falls from the top will not ruin the carpets. Once the carpet set
has been loosely fitted it should be clear the area that has to be trimmed by
the soft trim material. The inner doors and the dashboard are covered by
hard trim panels provided within the standard kit.
All the carpets within the monocoque are glued directly to the glass fibre
surface and therefore before you start fitting the carpets make sure that there
are not any sharp areas protruding into the monocoque. Where holes are cut
or trimmed to allow access into the monocoque for example seat belt
mountings or rear suspension hangers, it is best if they are covered with either
aluminium or hardboard glued over the hole to form a flat surface for the
carpets to be glued to. Covering the holes also prevents any noise
transmitting through into the monocoque.
A convenient way of dealing with the seat belt mountings that are covered by
the carpet is to captivate the seat belt mounts on the reverse surface by taking
the seat belt mounting out and roughing up the mating surface with production
paper. Put a small amount of body filler on it so that when you tighten up the
seat belt mounting bolt it effectively captivates the seat belt mounting plates.
This means that when you are fitting your carpets you only have to drill a hole
in the carpets and then fit the seat belt mounts, preventing having to trim the
carpets around the seat belt mountings.
The carpets are glued directly to the glass fibre surface using a contact
adhesive. Carefully follow the instructions on the container when fitting the
Fit carpets one and two over the lower front wishbone mountings. It will be
necessary to cut these (and fold flanges). Do not attempt to fit these
immediately, dry fit the carpets over the area to be covered before putting any
glue in place. Glue the carpets into position.
Carpet pieces three and four run from the box sections previously covered
and over the box section that comes down from the dashboard to the sills.
Where the carpet pieces meet the sill, it is necessary to cut the carpet to allow
it to be glued over the top of the sill section. This is to ensure that when
© GTM CARS LTD. 2.1
carpet five and six go over it the sill cannot be seen at the join. Where the
carpet piece comes up to the door shut face take the carpet to the face and
along the shut where the sealing rubber fits over and slightly over the top.
This ensures that when you fit the sealing rubber to the door shut face it does
not push off the carpet. Trim the carpet at this point so that you do not get an
excessive amount of carpet thus preventing the sealing rubber fitting correctly.
Fit carpet piece ten over the tunnel. The front edge will have to be cut in two
places to allow the front of the tunnel carpet piece to fold over the toe board.
Holding the carpet piece in place, fold the carpet down the sides of the tunnel
and mark where the carpet piece goes over the box section that holds the
front of the seat runner. Now carefully cut two slits in the carpet so that the
carpet folds over the top of the box section and down the sides.
Cut the hole for the gear change using the hole in the tunnel as a template.
Glue this carpet into place now but do not glue the flaps over the floor plan at
this stage as it is more convenient to do this when you fit carpet pieces nine
and twelve over the seat box sections. Fit carpet pieces five and six to the sill
box sections. Dry fit the carpet pieces and glue the carpet to the top face of
the sill. This will hold the carpet while you mark and cut it to fit. Cut the door
seal piece in the same manner as you cut the seal on carpet pieces three and
four. Cut the carpet where it fits over the seat box section in a similar manner
to the tunnel section carpet piece. Now fully glue the carpet along the vertical
face of the sill but do not glue the bottom flanges that go onto the floor. Fit
carpet pieces nine and twelve over the seat box sections on top of the flanges
that are formed over the seat box section down the small vertical faces and
under the flanges formed on the floor section. You can now fully glue the
flanges from the door sills and the tunnel on to the floor.
Fit carpet piece eight over the petrol tank moulding and trim to suit. Note here
that the handbrake cover T0126 will neaten up the carpet round that area and
that on the hard trim option the parcel shelf front edge will neaten up the top
edge of this carpet.
Fit carpet piece eleven to the front toe plate.
Now finally glue in carpet pieces thirteen, fourteen, fifteen and sixteen in
The dashboard cover mounts to the top of the dashboard using black flanged
self-tapping screws No 8 20mm long. Drill out the holes in the dashboard
cover T0118 with an Ø5mm drill. Place the dashboard cover on top of the
dashboard and drill through the previously drilled holes with an Ø3.5mm drill.
The dashboard cover can now be attached to the dashboard using No 8 self
tapping screws. Check all the clearances and fits are to your satisfaction and
then the panel is ready to be removed and trimmed.
© GTM CARS LTD. 2.3
DASHBOARD TOP AND DEMISTER VENTS
The dashboard top and demister vent assembly is the same for the Rover
Metro standard instrument pack and the optional individual instrument pack.
The dashboard top should be the last component fitted to the interior of the
car. This assumes the instruments, fresh air vents and the plenum chamber
are all in place. Prepare the dashboard top mould by cutting 3 holes, Ø3"
into the recess provided and push through the fresh air vents T0696. The
fresh air tubes and the plastic ‘Y’ piece should be assembled and fitted to the
heater as shown in the drawing. The fresh air pipes need to be fed into
roughly the right position to locate to the base of the air vents when the
dashboard top is fitted. Once the pipes are in position, the dashboard top with
air vents should be placed over the top of the instruments and located into
position. By lifting the front edge of the dashboard top you should be able to
reach through and locate the tubes into the base of the air vents. The
dashboard top can then be pushed into place and screwed securely through
the locators marked in the mould.
PART TRIM PANELS OPTION
The hard trim panel option kit provides the builder with the opportunity of hard
trimming all those panels that in the standard kit are soft trimmed by the direct
application of trim material to the inner surface of the monocoque. The hard
trim panels are made so that they can be trimmed away from the car and then
screwed to the inner face of the monocoque. All the trim panels are secured
in position by No 8 self tapping screws and these are provided within the hard
trim pack option in the fastener pack T1701. The hard trim panels must be
fitted to the car and adjusted to get the correct gaps prior to any trim material
glued to them. Time spent in getting the clearances and fits right will be well
rewarded once the trim material is glued to the trim panels.
Start by fitting the drivers and passengers side screen pillars to the
monocoque. The edge that goes round the front screen goes round the
monocoque and up to the glass when fitted. The top corners of the screen
where the trim panel comes around to meet the roof panel will have to be
carefully trimmed back to get a flush fit with the roof panel. Do not remove too
much of the rebate where the screen glues in. Drill the screen pillar panel
screw holes with an Ø5mm clearance drill. Holding the panels in the position
required, drill through the Ø5mm hole with an Ø3.5mm drill into the
monocoque. A selection of screws are included within the fastener pack to
enable you to select the correct length of screw required for the particular
application. Now screw the panel through the composite roll cage to hold in
the desired position. Note that it is not designed so that you tighten up the
screws fully to pull the panel home against the roll cage but that you tighten
the screws to a point where the inner panel is held securely and in the right
© GTM CARS LTD. 2.3
place. The desired position will be easily seen once you tighten up the panel.
It is a good idea at this stage to fit the dash top into position and make any
adjustments you require to the clearances between the screen pillars and the
dash top to equalise the gap. Remember that trim material is going to fit
around the dash top and onto the screen pillars and therefore a clearance is
essential. A clearance in the order of Ø3mm is ideal.
With the screen pillars left in place, fit the roof section. The roof section fits in
a similar manner to the screen pillars and is attached through the self tapping
screws into the monocoque. Do not over tighten the turn knobs as they are
not meant to pull the roof section tight against the monocoque.
Leaving the roof panel in place, hold up the rear window surround. The rear
window surround is designed so that the panel fits up flush against the rear
window when fitted. It will be necessary to trim the rebate which holds the
rear window to allow the roof panel to fit through the aperture. Do not over
trim the aperture as a certain amount of rebate is required to glue the rear
screen in place.
Holding the rear panel in place, mark the position of the bottom securing
screws through the panel onto the rear face of the monocoque. Cut a piece of
half inch ply or similar wood and secure this to the rear panel with body filler.
This ply is to enable you to screw through and secure the rear window
surround to the monocoque. It also provides a spacer so that sound proofing
material can be glued to the monocoque prior to fitting the rear window
With the rear window surround in place, fit the B post side panels to the car.
The side panels have to be packed out from the monocoque at the rear
quarters so that they meet up with the rear window surround panel. Pack out
with any suitable wood until you get a nice clearance between the rear
window surround and the side panel. The wood can be attached to the
monocoque with body filler and of course not seen once the trim panels are in
place. Body filler a suitable piece of wood into the top of the B posts to accept
the fixing screws at the top of the trim panel. Note these fixing plates do not
have to be flush with the panel, purely sufficient thickness to allow the
attaching screws to have sufficient threads in them to hold the side panel.
Where the seat belt mounting has to go through the side panels drill a small
Ø10mm hole to enable you to see the exact position of the seat belt mounting
through the hole. Open out this hole to the correct position to approximately
Ø25mm. Go carefully here as it is easy to get the hole in the wrong place.
Take the drivers side B post panel off and fit the petrol neck cover over the
petrol neck. Replace the driver’s side B post panel and adjust the petrol neck
cover to get the appropriate gaps. Secure the petrol neck cover panel to the
monocoque drilling through the top panel of the rear box section.
Once you are satisfied with all the clips remove the hard trim panel and these
are now ready to be trimmed with your chosen material.
© GTM CARS LTD. 2.4
SEATS AND RUNNERS
The Libra utilises the two front seats and runners from a K Series Rover
Metro. A beam runs across the car at an appropriate point between the sill
and the tunnel on both sides, on which the front edge of the seat runners
mount. The rear edge of the seat runner mounts directly through the
strengthened floor of the rear. Most after market seats will fit as there is
considerable room in the Libra. GTM also supplies alternative accessory
Seats and Runners assembly.
Whichever seat you choose to use, the runners at the front need to be
secured into the box section that runs across the car from the outside sill to
the tunnel and the rear secured to the floor behind this section. When
securing the front of the runners to the box section, drill through the top of the
box section and straight through the bottom. Open out the bottom hole with a
Ø25mm hole saw. Bolt up the runner to the top of the box section and not
both surfaces. The floor of the Libra is strengthened to take the weight of the
seat runners but it is a good idea to spread the load as far as possible.
When fitting, special GTM seat mounts are available from the factory to
enable you to put the seat at any angle and height you should desire. These
special mounts run across the floor so as to strengthen the mounting.
© GTM CARS LTD. 2.5
The Libra utilises the front seat belts from a K Series Rover Metro. The belts
mount to special reinforced areas within the monocoque.
Seat belts assembly
The front seat belts of the K Series Rover Metro are handed. It is therefore
important that you use the driver’s side out of the Metro on the driver’s side of
It is easy to tell which side is which by starting the assembly from the outside
The mounting is made on the K Series Rover with a loop of the seat belt that
slides along a bar, which is attached to the car.
This bar is retained on the Libra and fits as shown in drawing No 28.
Start by drilling the Ø13mm clearance hole in which the joggle part of the bar
will fit. Due to the angles involved it is easiest to put a small pilot drill through
the position first and then follow through with a Ø3mm drill. A certain amount
of filing will be necessary to enable the bar to fit through the sill. Fit the bar
through the sill and using the bar as a template, drill the front hole Ø25mm
clearance, 50mm from the floor of the car.
Hole saw approximately an Ø60mm hole in the sill to enable you to fit the seat
belt mounting plate T0630 behind the sill to locate the seat belt rod. Repeat
the procedure for the other side of the car.
Now fit the inertia reels to the bottom corners of the rear box in the position
shown on the diagram. Before fitting the inertia reels it is necessary to drill out
the threads from the inertia reel fixings to a clearance hole to enable the
inertia reel to be fitted from the inside of the car. Be extremely careful when
drilling out the threads of the inertia reel mountings as it is very easy for the
drill to snatch. Mount the inertia reel with a seat belt mounting plate T0630
behind the back box. Access is obtained through the hole already cut in the
back box. Repeat the operation for the other side.
On the standard Rover Metro the center lower positions of the seat belt
mountings are joined onto one bracket. On the Libra this bracket is not used
and it is necessary to remove the separate part of the mounting from the
bracket by angle grinding or filing the outside face of the rivet.
The brackets are attached in the position shown on the drawing with a special
bush T0631 between the bracket and the tunnel. Drill a clearance hole in the
position shown on the drawing and working with an assistant hold the seat
belt mounting bracket T0630 on the inside of the tunnel tightening the bolt
from the inside of the car.
The top seat belt mounting is mounted as in the K Series Rover Metro to the
bush already located in the monocoque in the side quarter panel. Use the
special bush T0632 to space the standard mounting away from the
monocoque so that it protrudes through the trim panel. You need a special
bolt 50mm long and 7/16 UNF in this position and not the standard top
© GTM CARS LTD. 2.6
SEPARATE INSTRUMENT OPTION
In standard form the Libra utilises the standard K Series Rover Metro
instrument pack and switchgear for the heater and rear fog light switch. When
using the separate instrument option it is necessary to use special cables to
operate the heater unit and switches for the heater fan and rear fog light. The
separate instruments themselves have been specially designed for the Libra
and fit to a binnacle designed for the purpose. The standard Rover Metro K
Series dashboard wiring loom is replaced in its entirety with a special loom
manufactured by GTM for the instrument option.
All of the components necessary to fit the instrument option are provided in
the pack by GTM Cars Ltd. Listed below are all the components provided
within the instrument option kit.
T1710 Moulding separate instrument binnacle.
T1711 Moulding separate instrument – top.
T1712 Separate instruments and warning lights.
T1713 Switch – rear fog.
T1714 Switch – cooling fan.
T1715 Bezel plates - instruments.
T1717 Bezel plates – switches.
T1718 Bezel plates – heater control
T1721 Heater control sliders.
T1722 Wiring loom – separate instruments.
T1723 Electronic Speedo sender.
T1724 Fastener pack – separate instruments.
Consult drawing No 22. Start the assembly by fitting the separate instruments
and warning lights T1712 into the instrument binnacle moulding T1710. The
separate instrument binnacle has marks on it to indicate the position of the
instruments. Cut out these holes using any suitable method. Hold the bezel
plate instruments T1715 up against the instrument binnacle and using the
bezel as a template mark and cut out any mismatches in the holes.
Put the two end instruments in as locators and mark up the positions on the
instrument binnacle for the four warning lights. Measure the diameter
required for the warning lights from the lights provided and drill out the
warning light holes in the instrument binnacle. It may be necessary to open
out the warning light holes in the bezel plate for the instruments depending on
which warning lights have been provided within the kit.
All the instruments and warning lights can now be mounted through the bezel
plate and through the binnacle and secured using the clamps provided.
Fix the switch bezel plate T1717 to the dashboard using four No 8 Posi drive
self tapping screws drilling the dashboard first with a Ø3.5mm drill. Mark the
two right hand squares with a scriber onto the dashboard for the holes to take
the heater fan and rear fog light switches.
Remove the bezel plate and cut out the squares. By cutting out slightly larger
than the scribe square you will find that the switches latch better to the bezel
plate. Remount the bezel plate to the dashboard with the four screws.
The fog light switch T1713 can now be pushed in to the far right hole and the
© GTM CARS LTD. 2.7
cooling fan switch T1714 placed in the other hole.
Cut a hole in the driver’s door pillar as shown in the drawing at the end of this
manual to accept bezel plate T1715. Keep this hole to a minimum so as not
to reduce the strength of the box section. Drill these holes using a Ø3.5mm
drill and attach the plate using 6 black No 8 posi drive screws 12mm long.
Following the drawing cut the hole on the top of the dashboard to allow the
cables to run through from the box section into the dashboard.
Remove the heater control bezel plate from the box section and fit the heater
control sliders T1721 to the bezel plate using 2 black No 8 posi drive 12mm
long self tapping screws. It is difficult to machine bend the 45 degree bend at
the bottom of the bezel plate and therefore it may be necessary to sharpen
this bend in a vice so that you get a good fit with the sliders. Once the sliders
are fitted remove any of the bottom tails that protrude over the edge of the
bezel plate in order to neaten the assembly.
The bezel plate can now be fitted to the box section with the cable coming up
through the hole previously trimmed at the bottom of the dashboard.
Consult drawing No 23 and drill an Ø20mm hole in the front corner of the
heater box in the dashboard to allow the cables to run back through under the
dashboard and connect to the heater mixer.
By fitting the heater unit under the dashboard it will be clear where exactly to
drill this hole to allow the cable to run through without bending it excessively.
The rearward flap on the heater unit made from steel can be connected up to
the cable without any modification.
The front plastic flap assembly requires an Ø3mm hole to be drilled in it as on
the drawing close to the rib and slot. By drilling this hole it is possible to fit the
standard cable end through the hole to operate the mechanism.
Both the control cables can be conveniently attached to the heater mixer unit
using tie wraps. Position the cables so that they work the flaps correctly and
then tie wrap the cables to the standard mounts.
Fit everything up permanently and looping the cables over the instrument
pack check that everything works freely and closes and shuts the appropriate
Mount electronic Speedo sender T1734 to the normal output from the gearbox
at the rear of your car. On early models of the 1400cc it may be necessary to
leave on the short Speedo cable and then attach the electronic Speedo
sender to the end of that cable. Take the electric wire that replaces the
Speedo cable and attach to the gearbox end and run over the petrol tank
under the car and through into the dashboard area as the standard Speedo
cable would run. Tie wrap the Speedo cable T0702 to any appropriate cable
or pipe under the tunnel making sure that the gear change is not going to foul
it. Finally fit in the GTM separate instrument wiring loom T1722 referring to
the drawing at the end of the manual. This wiring loom totally replaces the
standard Rover Metro K Series dashboard wiring loom. The Rover K Series
wiring loom should be removed completely and discarded. Start by plugging
the wiring loom into the fusebox on the body K Series wiring loom. Attach the
GTM electronic Speedo wiring loom to the separate instrument wiring loom.
The wiring loom now runs under the instruments to the switches and then
across the top of the instruments to the warning lights and gauges. By
following the diagram it should be relatively easy to plug in all the electrical
© GTM CARS LTD. 2.8
By wiring the fan switch as shown on the left-hand side of the drawing it will
run the fan at medium speed when switched on. The other two colours can
be used if you desire high speed or low speed. Provided within the wiring
loom are two extra illumination wires in case you should fit any extra switches.
The new temperature gauge and the oil pressure gauge provided within the
separate instrument pack require different senders to be fitted at the engine
end. These senders are provided within the separate instrument and warning
light pack T1712. The temperature sender purely replaces the standard
temperature sender on the K Series engine and it is necessary to replace the
standard electrical connector with a female spade connector, which slips over
the top of the end of the temperature sender provided.
The oil pressure sender replaces the standard oil pressure light switch, which
is positioned adjacent to the oil filter. Remove the standard sender switch and
replace it with the sender provided within the instrument pack. Here again it
will be necessary to remove the standard electrical connector and replace it
with a spade connector. The spade connector should be attached to the M
terminal of the sender unit.
The soft trim material provided within the standard kit is relatively forgiving
and can be glued directly to the inner surface of the monocoque once it has
been sanded and ‘cleaned up’. When soft trimming the upper part of the
monocoque it is essential that the trim is fitted prior to bonding in the front and
rear screens. The trim material is wrapped round the aperture and glued to
the bonding face of the screens. In a similar way to the screen apertures the
soft trim material is trimmed around the door apertures and then glued on the
face where the seal fits. Start by covering the area in the top of the car and
running approximately 50mm down the screen pillars and down to level with
the top of the rear window. This can be all covered with one piece of material
glued to the internal surface of the glass fibre. Now trim down the screen
pillars by folding the top join where it goes over the already fitted trim on the
top part of the car and down to below the dashboard top area. This can be
trimmed in a similar manner to the roof, gluing the trim material to the inside
surface of the glass fibre and then around the screen aperture and the door
The quarter panels at the back of the car can be trimmed in a similar manner
to the front screen pillars going up to the back bulkhead of the car and round
by approximately 25mm.
Cut a section of the soundproofing the size of the rear bulkhead and around
the rear screen so that it covers the areas not covered by the soft trims
material that you have glued to the monocoque. Now trim this soundproofing
material with the soft trim material taking it round the edges. Where the rear
window fits over the rear window aperture, glue it to the rebate.
© GTM CARS LTD. 2.9
HARD TRIM PANELS (STANDARD KIT)
Door trim panels assembly
Place the completed door assembly onto a flat surface suitably covered so
that you do not scratch the outside faces. Take door handle inner T0123/4
and drill out the hole marked for the wiper handle to come through. Drill a
Ø35mm hole. Rest the door handle on top of the door inner frame and on top
of that, rest the door inners T0116/7.
Position the door handle onto the inner frame using the door inner as a guide
to get the correct position for the door handle. It may be necessary to file the
door winder hole to obtain the correct position for the door inner handle. Once
the correct position has been found with an equal gap between the door inner
and the door handle attach the door handle to the door inner frame using six
No 8 posi drive 10mm long self tapping screws. The inner door handle covers
up one of the adjusting nuts for the small adjusting channel for the wider
mechanism. Drill out the inner door handle approximately Ø25mm to allow
access to this nut.
Attach one end of door pull wire T0516 to the door latch using door pull
connector T0524. This can be attached by looping the wire through the door
latch and then joining it together with the door pull connector. Place the door
pull wire over the top of the door handle in the position shown on the drawing
and mark the positions of the holes required to allow the door pull wire to pass
through the door handle and act as the operating wire for the latch. Drill
suitable clearance holes in the door handle and pass the wire through the
door handle and attach at the other side with door pull connector T0524.
Using a suitable tool i.e. a screwdriver, operate the latch at the end of the door
and open the door with the door pull to obtain the correct tension on the door
pull wire. The door inner panel T0116/7 can now be attached to the door
outer shell. Drill out the holes in the inner panel with a Ø5mm drill. Place the
panel over the door in the correct position and drill through the inner panel to
the door and the door handle inner with a Ø3.5mm drill. Attach the door inner
panel to the door and the door handle using No 8 self-tapping screws.
Where the self-tapping screws go through the door Spiro clips have been
provided to provide extra security for the inner panel.
The trim within the Libra can be undertaken in three ways.
Firstly - You can use the standard Rover Metro K Series instrument binnacle
complete with its switches and heater control gear or secondly you can
choose to use separate instruments designed especially by GTM for the Libra
with special switches and heater control levers.
The standard kit comes complete with hard trim panels for the doors and the
handbrake cover panel in the rear of the car.
A set of carpets are provided within the standard kit to totally cover the lower
© GTM CARS LTD. 2.11
half of the car. In the standard kit headlining type material is provided to
enable the builder to cover the remaining panels by directly applying the
headlining material to the interior of the glass fibre monocoque.
Finally - An additional kit is available from GTM to completely hard trim this
area of the car with separate panels that can be trimmed prior to fitting to the
Sufficient soundproofing material is provided within the kit to cover those
areas where it is necessary.
TRIMMING HARD PANELS
All the hard panels that require trimming on the Libra whether they be part of
the standard kit or the optional hard trim panels are covered in the same
Use a fine grit (80 production paper) round all the edges of the panels to
remove any sharp edges and to give a slight radius at the edges for the trim
material to fold round. All the panels need to be washed thoroughly with hot
water and washing up liquid to remove the wax and release agent which may
still be on the panels after the moulding process. Failure to do this will mean
that the glue will not adhere properly and the trim material will eventually
come loose from the panels. Now sand all the top surfaces of the trim panels
lightly with production paper to form a good key for the glue. The panels
should now either be washed and allowed to dry completely or vacuumed
Trimming panels with leather cloth type materials does take some skill and it
is best to start with a small panel first to familiarise yourself with the technique.
Take a small moulding and cut a piece of your trim material larger than the
moulding so that it can be folded over the edges but not so large that it is
difficult to fit onto the panel. Using a contact adhesive cover both the panel
and the material completely. When the glue is touch dry place the trim
material onto the centre of the panel and working outwards smooth the
material onto the panel and press down to glue firmly to the panel.
Where there are difficult shapes on the panel the addition of heat to the
material can help greatly. The use of a hairdryer can be very useful in
generating a little extra heat in difficult conditions.
Once the outside surface of the panel is covered and glued to your
satisfaction, turn the panel over and cut the trim material to within
approximately 20mm from the edge of the moulding. This material will be
glued to the underside of the moulding to make the finished panel. At the
corners and as you work round each panel it will be necessary to cut ‘V’s into
this 20mm band to enable the material to be folded round without undo
wrinkling. Practice will tell you the amount of these required and the distance
they must be from the edge of the moulding but start by approximately 4mm
from the edge of the moulding. Now glue the edge of the trim material and a
band at least 20mm wide on the reverse face of the moulding. Dry fold the
20mm band over and glue to the underside of the moulding.
It is unlikely that your first attempt will be satisfactory and therefore remove
the covering material from the moulding and try again.
If after many attempts the results you are getting are not satisfactory then a
© GTM CARS LTD. 2.11
visit to your local trimmer is necessary.
Should you be unable to find a trimmer to do the job for you then do contact
GTM Cars Ltd and we would only be to pleased to pass you on to a suitable
The trim panels can then be re-fitted to your car.
© GTM CARS LTD. 2.12
The Libra uses two glass fibre doors with steel inner frames to support the
glass and winding mechanism. These frames bolt directly to the doors via four
Allen bolts, which can be seen from inside the car. The doors are hinged on
their front edge using two top hat nylon bushes. These bushes fit directly into
the glass fibre moulding. The bottom pivot sits directly on the body sill and is
adjustable in all directions without removing the door. The top pivot bolts
directly to the door upright and is adjustable in a similar manner to the bottom
pivot. In this way the door can be fitted and then adjusted without removing
any interior trim to obtain the best fit. The Libra utilises the standard Rover
Metro latch on the rear face of the door. This latch is operated by a purpose
designed outside door button and internal door pull. The door is prevented
from opening too wide by purpose designed door straps fitted between the
door and the monocoque. The door winding mechanism is the standard K
Series Rover Metro fitted without modification and using its own glass
channel. The door glass is a special glass provided in the kit.
Assemble the Rover Metro winding regulator channel to the bottom of the
window glass T1001/2. The channel should be fitted to the bottom of the
glass as indicated on the assembly drawing No 16.
Remove the rubber insulator from the centre of the Metro window channel.
Glue the rubber insulator onto the bottom of the Libra window glass in the
position shown on the assembly drawing. Any contact adhesive is suitable for
this task. Place the Libra window glass onto a clean tabletop with the bottom
edge slightly protruding over the edge of the table. Starting from one end
gently force the window regulator channel over the rubber and work along
until the complete channel is fitted snugly up to the rubber glued to the bottom
of the glass. It is important that the channel fits tightly up to the rubber on the
bottom edge for the correct operation of the regulator.
Inner Door Frame
Take the door inner frame T0500/1 and cut suitable length of window channel
rubber T0518 to fit into the vertical channels on each side of the frame that the
window glass runs up and down. Glue the rubber channel into the vertical
channels in the door inner frames using a suitable contact adhesive.
Fit the door window glass complete with its bottom channel into the door inner
frame and manually move the glass up and down the channel making sure
that the glass moves freely, a small amount of petroleum jelly can help the
© GTM CARS LTD. 3.1
smooth operation of the glass within the rubber channel.
Remove the window glass from the door inner frame and place aside. Mount
the K Series Metro window regulator to the door inner frame in the position as
shown on the assembly drawing using two Ø6 x 15mm long socket cap
screws and washers.
Mount the short (120mm long) channel to the inner doorframe in the position
shown on the assembly drawing using the standard Rover Metro 5mm nuts.
Fit the door regulator top stop T0521 to the door regulator using a Ø6 x 18mm
long socket cap head screw washer and Nyloc nut.
Fit a winding handle to the regulator and check that the regulator winds up
and down satisfactory without jamming.
Wind the regulator to a position so that the operating legs are just below the
bottom arm of the inner door frame and remove the regulator by unscrewing
its Ø6mm retaining bolt.
Slide the door glass into the inner door frame to a position where the channel
approximates to the position of the operating arms prior to removing the
regulator. Now slide the operating arms of the regulator on to the bottom
channel attached to the glass from the rear end of the door at the same time
ensuring that the small wheel of the regulator arm fits into the small channel
already attached to the door inner frame. Position the regulator so that the
two Ø6mm bolts can be replaced and mount the regulator.
The window glass should now wind up and down the door in the frame without
Do not at this stage attempt to adjust the position of the small 120mm channel
or the position of the eccentric top stop. This will be adjusted once the frame
is assembled into the door.
Locks and Hinges Assembly
Put aside the two inner frame regulators and glass and assemble the locks
and hinges into the glass fibre door shells.
Using the full scale template included in the assembly manual mark the inside
recessed shut face of the door where the Rover Metro latch will fit. Using the
other template follow on from the previously marked hole for the striker onto
the inside face of the door using the template provided in the assembly
manual. Spot and drill the three Ø6mm clearance holes in the door face.
Using a jigsaw or by chain drilling, cut out the aperture for the striker. Using
the Rover Metro door latch as a guide clean up the hole to allow the latch to fit
snugly. Do this work carefully, as it will be seen on the completed car.
Radius the edges to obtain a neat appearance. The door latch can now be
mounted to the door shell using three Ø6mm button socket screws 20mm
long with washers.
Cut a Ø25mm hole in the centre of the recess for the external door key. This
hole can either be cut with a hole saw or by chain drilling and filing. File the
two anti rotation notches in this hole.
Due to the increased thickness of the glass fibre body compared to a steel
body shell the notches in the K Series Rover Metro door lock have to be wider
© GTM CARS LTD. 3.2
to enable the retaining clip to work satisfactorily. Mount the door lock in a vice
and carefully saw the door lock barrel to increase the width of the notches to
approximately 4/5 mm. The door lock can now be assembled to the door shell
using the standard Rover Metro spring retainer.
Using the indentations of the outer side door shell, pilot the two Ø5mm
clearance holes required for the door handle and open out to Ø5mm
clearance. Using the door handle T0514 as a template, mark and drill a hole
approximately Ø28 mm to enable the door button to come through the outer
shell. The door handle T0514 and the door handle mechanism T0511/2 can
now be mounted to the door shell using two Ø5mm Nyloc nuts and washers.
Make sure that the door handle mechanism fits flush against the internal glass
fibre face of the door and if necessary clean the face up using production
Assemble the door button T0515 through the door button carrier T0513 using
a Ø6mm socket cap head screw 10mm long and a washer. The carrier can
now be mounted to the door handle mechanism and mounted to the door
using a Ø2mm split pin 35mm long. Do not turn the ends of the split pin at this
stage, as it will have to be removed in the assembly of the door rods. Check
at this stage that the door button swings in and out of the door freely without
Hold the door striker T0520 and move it in and out of the latch assembled to
the door and familiarise yourself with the working of the latch.
Take a 260mm long piece of the door rod wire T0523 and form a joggle at one
end to fit in the pawl that operates the door lock mechanism in the door latch.
Remove the three securing bolts from the door latch and remove it from the
door. Fit this joggle into the door lock pawl with the wire coming up through
the pawl away from the outer shell of the door. Refit the latch to the door.
Place the rod over the top of the outside key mechanism and mark the
position of the hole in the plastic lever arm of the door key mechanism. Again
remove the door latch mechanism from the door, remove the door rod and
form a right angle at the end as previously marked approximately 15mm long.
Reassemble and make sure everything works satisfactorily using a key from
the outside of the door and manually inserting the door striker.
Take a 280mm long piece of the door rod wire T0523 and form a joggle in the
end to fit into the pawl that operates the door latch. Remove the door latch
and fit this joggle into the pawl in a similar manner to the lock rod with the wire
coming up away from the outside face of the door. Reassemble the latch into
the door and very carefully mark the position of the required joggle that the
door button holder T0513. Make sure that the door button is in its most
outside point when you mark this position. Remove the wire and form another
joggle at right angles to the previous joggle to fit through the door button
© GTM CARS LTD. 3.3
Remove the door button carrier T0513 from the door handle mechanism
T0511 by removing the 2mm split pin and fit the joggle through the hole
provided. Refit the door button carrier to the door handle mechanism and
check that everything works effectively. It is extremely important that there is
no excessive play in the mechanism and it is worth at this stage taking some
time to ensure the correct operation. When completely satisfied spray out the
ends of the split pin. The door latch and the door lock should now work
satisfactorily. Provision has been made for a strip spring to be used between
the door button carrier and the door lock mechanism that in practise has been
found to be unnecessary.
Fitting the Frame
Fit the door frame complete with glass to the door. Mark the centre of the four
recessed inner frame mounting points and pilot drill. Open out with a Ø6mm
clearance drill. It is necessary to extend the outer glass line on the door shells
to enable the glass to wind up and down. A split line on the mould indicates
the line of the outer glass. This shows up as a raised line on the shell of the
door. Extend the rear line to within 3mm of the end of the door and form a slot
for the glass to wind up through, 10mm wide. Do this work very carefully as it
shows on the exterior of the car. Where the glass runs up into the small
triangular panel at the front of door on which the wing mirror mounts, it is
necessary to trim the moulding in a similar manner to the rear edge of the
door. Use the mould line as a guide and open up the slot to 10mm, as at the
rear. The glass must run as far up into the triangular panel as possible to
minimise the difficult condition with the door seals when shut on the car. As
with the rear, do this work carefully as it will be seen when the car is complete.
Prior to fitting the door glass weather seal T0517, it is advisable to fit the door
inner frame complete with glass to the door using the 6mm stainless steel
counter sunk screws and washers. Check that the window winds up and
down freely and that the glass has a clearance between the outer door and
the outer face of the glass particularly where the weather seal will fit.
Adjustment can be made to the fitting of the glass by inserting washers
between the doorframe and the door outer skin. Once this seems
satisfactory, remove the frame.
Trim the door glass weather seal T0517 so that it is the correct length from the
back face of the door to the small triangular wing mirror panel. Clean the
inner face of the door shell and lightly sand the inner face on which the door
weather seal is to be glued. Glue the door glass weather seal T0517 to the
door shell T0104/5 using “super glue”.
Door Mirror Assembly
The two mounting storks approximately Ø10.5mm have to be shortened on the
standard Rover K Series mirror to a length of approximately 13mm from the
outside inner face of the mounting flange. These can be easily cut with a
junior hacksaw. Open out the inner hole in these mounting tubes from 5.2mm
to a depth of 15mm. Tap these holes, Ø6mm metric fine using a standard
metal tap. Check the thread by screwing in a standard Ø6mm bolt.
© GTM CARS LTD. 3.4
The arm that normally projects into the car so the door mirror can be adjusted
from inside the Metro has to be removed using a hack saw at a point
approximately 10mm from the spring retaining washer. The wing mirrors can
not be adjusted from inside the Libra.
Refer to drawing No 17. Where the wing mirror mounts to the door outer
panel mark the centre of the boss and pilot with a small drill. With a Ø30mm
hole saw, drill out the central part of the mirror boss. Two Ø10.5mm holes
now have to be drilled on approximately Ø41mm centres to enable the
mounting tubes to come through the outer skin of the door moulding. When
drilled these holes just break into the surface of the Ø30mm hole previously
hole sawed. The wing mirror can now be positioned on the door with the two
mounting bosses projecting through the door and being accessible from the
inside of the panel. It may be necessary to slightly adjust the Ø10.5mm
clearance holes depending on the exact size of your particular moulding.
Place one of the door mirror mounting sleeves T0522 over one of the
mounting boss tubes projecting into the car and with a 15mm long set bolt and
large 6mm washer, secure the wing mirror. The other door mirror mounting
sleeve can now be fitted over the other tube and secured in a similar manner.
Tighten both bolts equally to secure the mirror to the door shell.
The door inner frame complete with its glass can now be reassembled to the
door shell using the four stainless steel 6mm screws and special washers.
Attaching the Door to the Monocoque
Refer to drawing No 16. Pilot drill the centre of the indent on the front of the
doors where the door hinge bushes T0510 fit. Open out these holes to
Ø13mm. Press fit the two door hinges bushes T0510 into the door outer shell
and tap home with a suitable soft mallet.
Using door hinge bottom T0512/3 as a guide, locate the two indents on top of
the sill which correspond to the two larger holes in the door hinge bottom
plate. Spot these two centres with a pilot drill. Open out these two holes to
Ø6mm clearance. Bolt the door hinge bottom T502/3 to the doorsill through
the doorsill to door hinge bottom spreader T0504 using two Ø6 x 25mm long
socket screws and large 20mm washers. The door hinge bottom should now
be adjustable in all directions around the 6mm bolts by loosening the screws.
Using door hinge top pivot plate T0508 as a guide, find the corresponding
three indents in the vertical part of the door aperture in the monocoque and
spot the holes. Open out these holes to Ø6mm clearance. Bolt T0508 to the
vertical face using three countersunk socket screws 25mm long washers and
Nyloc nuts. Mount the door hinge top pivot T0506 to the top of the door hinge
plate T0508 with door hinge top spreader T0509 on top using two Ø6 x 12mm
long socket cap head screws and washers. By slackening the screws, the top
pivot should now move around freely about the Ø6mm screws. Remove the
© GTM CARS LTD. 3.5
door top pivot. Place the door onto the bottom pivot and into the aperture.
Screw on the door top pivot as before. Adjust the top and bottom pivots to
obtain a suitable fit on the door. The height of the door at the door hinge end
can be adjusted by placing standard 10mm washers on top of the bottom door
With the door glass wound down into the door adjust the two hinges so that
the outside shape of the door follows through onto the sill line and rear face of
the door. Use the small air scoop which follows through from the bodywork
onto the door to give you a guide as to the height of the door at the rear and
of course the top line of the door. Spend time making sure that you have the
correct position of the door before continuing with the door assembly.
Open and close the door into the door aperture and mark on the door shut
face the height of the door striker by referring to the position in the door. As a
guide the door striker should be approximately 70mm horizontally from the
outside face of the door shut. When you are satisfied you have the correct
position, pilot and drill the door striker hole to Ø12mm clearance. Mount the
door striker T0520 to the monocoque T0100 using 12mm x 1.25 pitch Nyloc
nuts and washers.
Open and shut the door many times to make sure that you have the striker in
the right position, that the locks are working correctly and that the door is
lining up with the outside of the car. It will be more than likely that you will
need to file the door striker position and adjust the door striker to get the best
possible fit. Time taken now to get the best possible fit is well worth while.
Wind up the door window to its top position and adjust the window regulator
top stop T0521 by slackening the 6mm bolts and turning them eccentric to
obtain the best fit with the glass in regard to the top of the door aperture. Now
cut some 13.5mm thick pieces of wood and glue them to several positions
around the door window seal. Shut the door and adjust the position of the
door glass by packing out the bottom mount of the doorframe T0500/1 with
6mm washers. The most critical position is where the door glass meets the
top of the door mirror triangle. Take great care to get the best possible fit at
Remove the wood and replace with standard Rover Metro door seal and
check and readjust the window position. Time spent now is very important to
make sure that the door sealing is waterproof.
© GTM CARS LTD. 3.6
A removable roof panel is fitted to the Libra and when removed is stored
behind the seats of the car. When stored the panel does not restrict the view
out of the rear window. The panel is located and fixed by five turn knobs.
When secured from the inside the panel is not removable from the outside
and hence offers complete security. Drain channels are provided from the
roof panel aperture and these in turn are also used to drain the roof when the
panel is in place to prevent water running off the roof and into the car when
the doors are open. A waterproof seal is also provided by GTM for the
aperture of the roof T1408.
Roof Panel assembly
Mark the centre of the circular indents on the roof of the monocoque. Drill first
with a pilot drill and drill out to Ø10mm. Fit the waterproof seal T1408. The
roof panel should now fit in through these holes and is secured by the five turn
© GTM CARS LTD. 3.7
ENGINE COVER MOULDING…………………………………….4.2
Engine cover assembly……………………………..4.2
Engine frame assembly……………………………..4.3
ENGINE AND AUXILIARIES……………………………………….4.4
© GTM CARS LTD. 3.8
ENGINE COVER MOULDING
The engine cover moulding incorporates the rear boot of the Libra. The
moulding complete with the boot, pivots about the bottom rear corners to give
access to the engine for servicing and general maintenance. It is secured
along its front edge to the monocoque with six Spiro clips similar to the front
moulding. When shut, the rear pivots are not used to support the rear
moulding. Adjustable brackets off the engine frame support the moulding
which are located under the floor of the boot moulding. These brackets take
the weight of the boot contents and the weight of the moulding. The moulding
has inner wheel arches attached to it which form part of the air intake ducting
to the engine.
Engine Cover Assembly
Start by fitting the 6 Spiro clip plates T0602 to the monocoque using the No 8
self tapping screws. At this stage do not fit the spacer washers under the
plates. The position of the plates is indicated on the monocoque and the sill
end panels with small indentations. Fit 6 off Spiro clipsT0602 into the Spiro
Take the rear panel and drill 6 pilot holes through the centre of the
indentations in the moulding for the panel fasteners. Now open these up to
Loosely attach boot support angle bracket T0411 to engine sub frame T0400
using the boot wobble plate T0410, 6 socket cap Ø6mm bolts, 15mm long
washers and Nyloc nuts.
Attach the rear panel to the monocoque using 6 fairing fasteners T0600.
Adjust the rear fairing to obtain an equal panel gap of approximately 4mm.
Working within the wheel arch, adjust the adjustable boot support angle
frames to rest on the bottom of the boot floor. Tighten the six off 6mm socket
Working within the wheel arch, attach the hinge spacers T0604 to the ends of
the engine sub frame T0400 using four 6mm Nyloc nuts and washers.
Loosely attach hinge plate T0603 to these hinge spaces using four 6mm
Nyloc nuts and washers.
© GTM CARS LTD. 4.1
Assemble a bonnet hinge bush T0611 onto a pivot rear panel T0605 and
using a 10mm socket cap screw 25mm long attach this assembly to the
loosely assembled hinge plates T0603. Note that the pivot rear panel
brackets TO605 are handed and that the leg which attaches to the bottom of
the rear panel faces inwards towards the car and the hole which the bush
T0611 fits through is angled away from the rear panel of the car.
Adjust hinge plate T0603 to the best position and mark two Ø6mm holes in the
bottom of the rear panel to attach the pivot rear panel bracket T0605.
Remove the 10mm socket screw and drill these previously marked holes with
a Ø6mm clearance drill. Reassemble the pivots and attach using pivot
securing plate T0606 and two Ø6mm Nyloc nuts and washers.
The fairing fasteners can now be undone and the rear panel should now pivot
backwards to give access to the engine compartment satisfactorily. Slight
rear adjustment maybe required to obtain the best possible fit.
The engine gearbox unit on the Libra is mounted to a purpose designed
frame, which in turn is bolted directly to the monocoque on the rear panel.
The Libra utilises the standard Rover engine mounts and the standard
gearbox mounting. These mountings bolt directly to the engine frame. The
standard Metro K Series bottom engine mounting is retained with a special
engine steady rod, which bolts to the mounting and forward under the sump to
the underside of the monocoque. The engine frame tubes run backwards and
provide the support for the bottom of the boot and at the far most end pivots
for the rear panel.
Note. There are no connections between the engine frame and the rear
Engine frame assembly.
The Libra engine frame bolts directly to the monocoque without spacers.
Inside the monocoque are spreader plates.
The center of each hole for the mounting frame is marked on the monocoque
with a small indentation. Drill the center of these indentations with a Ø1.25mm
drill. Open out the holes on the four large mounting plates to Ø8mm clearance
holes and the three holes on the small mounting plates to Ø6mm clearance.
35mm long socket bolts can now bolt the engine frame to the monocoque
using the 12 off 8 x 35mm long socket bolts and the 3 off 6 x 35mm. These
bolts mount through the engine frame mountings, through the monocoque,
and through the spreader plates. They are secured with Nyloc nuts.
Note the Engine Frame is welded on a separate jig and when fitting to the rear
bulkhead of the monocoque a small amount of distortion can be expected. It
© GTM CARS LTD. 4.2
may be necessary to strain the frame a small amount in order to assemble all
the bolts through into the monocoque.
Once all the bolts are in place tighten and secure.
ENGINE AND AUXILIARIES.
The Libra utilises all the standard auxiliaries from the K Series Rover Metro.
The ECU relay box, coil and filter unit from the Metro all bolt directly to the
bulkhead. The water bottle header tank bolts via a glass fibre shell to the
drivers side rear engine frame tube directly behind the engine.
The engine on the GTM Libra is fitted from under the car. This is best
achieved by jacking the car up to a height where the engine can be
manoeuvred under the engine frame from the rear and then lift the engine with
an engine crane. If you have not got an engine crane then it is perfectly
possible and easy to jack the car up position the engine under the car at a
suitable height and then lower the car onto the engine. The engine mounts on
the standard Rover K Series Metro engine mounts. If you are using the
engine out of any other Rover car and not a Metro it is essential that the
engine and gearbox mounts are changed to those of the Rover K Series
Metro. If you are using an 1800cc K Series engine with the AP1 gearbox it is
necessary to purchase from GTM a special adapter bracket for your gearbox
mounting. The engine mounting in this case must also be replaced by the K
Series Rover Metro engine mounting. Before assembling the engine to the
car remove the main engine mounting from the engine by undoing the two
nuts and slide the casting upwards. Mount this casting into the location on the
Libra engine frame remembering to incorporate the two standard sideways
rubbers between the casting and the frame. Leave this bolt slightly loose to
enable adjustment to be made as the engine is brought up to the car from
below. On the gearbox end of the assembly mount the standard Rover K
Series Metro gearbox mounting to the gearbox. Disregard the metalwork that
surrounds the mounting that is attached by the two small nuts on the top of
the mounting. This is replaced on the Libra by a built in mount on the engine
frame. Jack up the engine or lower the body up into the engine frame from
below the car and as it comes up locate the engine mounting and the gearbox
mounting into the appropriate areas. Tighten up the two vertical bolts on the
engine mount attached to the engine and fit the T0415 gearbox mounting
bottom support under the standard Rover gearbox mounting using two
Ø10mm x 25mm long socket cap screws, washers and Nyloc nuts.
© GTM CARS LTD. 4.3
All the engine auxiliaries on the K Series Libra can conveniently be mounted
directly onto the main bulkhead immediately prior to the engine. The
arrangement shown in drawing No 29 at the end of this manual shows the
The main engine relay can be conveniently mounted onto the bulkhead using
the original K Series mounting cut down so it can be bolted directly onto the
bulkhead. Drill two Ø6mm clearance holes in the outside face of the cut down
component and use these holes to drill the bulkhead. Position the relay unit
as close as possible to the indentation in the main mould for the main engine
frame. Position the top of the mounting bracket as close as possible to the
top of the flat surface of the bulkhead.
Mount the coil closely against the relay unit using the standard K Series
mounting and bolt through the bulkhead with two Ø6 x 25mm long set bolts,
washers and nyloc nuts.
Mount the standard K Series Rover fuel filter as shown in the diagram directly
onto the bulkhead adjacent to the coil using two Ø6 x 25mm long set bolts,
Nyloc nuts and washers. Note that the ‘U’ section outlet from the fuel filter is
at the top of the filter body and that the inlet from the petrol tank is at the
Mount the engine management ECU to the left of the main relays as indicated
on the diagram using three off Ø6 x 25mm long socket cap screws, washers
and Nyloc nuts.
Finally, mount the inertia switch to the LHS of the Engine Management ECU
using two No 6 x 20 mm long self tapping screws.
© GTM CARS LTD. 4.4
FRONT AND REAR SUSPENSION
Kit components required……………………………5.2
Donor parts required...............................................5.3
Front suspension assembly………………………...5.3
Kit components required........................................5.4
Donor parts required…………………………………5.5
Rear suspension assembly…………………………5.5
© GTM CARS LTD. 4.5
The Libra uses a conventional
unequally length double wishbone
suspension at the front. It uses two
Metro front hub assemblies with the
standard top ball-joints but special
bottom joints. The outer part of the drive shaft assemblies used on the Metro
are used to secure the front wheel bearings and hubs. They are machined on
exchange by GTM Cars Ltd. The top and bottom wishbones are specially
made components and utilise special inner bearings. These bearings are held
by mounting brackets which in turn are bolted directly to the front of the
composite monocoque. A 3mm shim is used on all the mounting brackets
between them and the monocoque to enable fine adjustment to be made once
the car is completed. Separate 1mm shims are provided for this purpose.
Inside the monocoque, spreader plates are used to spread the loads applied.
Adjustable seat height coil over shock absorber units bolt between the lower
front wishbone and the front damper mountings which in turn are mounted to
the monocoque in a similar manner to the wishbone mounting brackets.
The shock absorbers have their adjusters towards the bottom of the shock
The GTM steering arms replace the standard Metro steering arms. These
face forward rather than backwards as in the Metro. THE LHS METRO HUB
IS USED ON THE RHS OF THE LIBRA AND THE RHS HUB ON THE LHS.
Kit components required
T0200 / T0201 - FRONT TOP WISHBONES.
T0202 / T0203 - FRONT BOTTOM WISHBONES.
T0204 - FRONT W/B MOUNTING BRKT.
T0205 - FRONT W/B MOUNTINGBRKT.SPREADER.
T0206 - FRONT W/B MOUNTING SHIM.
T0207 - FRONT SUSPENSION BUSH ASSEMBLY.
© GTM CARS LTD. 5.1
T0208 - FRONT BOTTOM SWIVEL.
T0209 / T0210 - STEERING ARMS.
T0211 - FRONT DAMPER SPRING.
T0212 - FRONT DAMPER MOUNTINGS.
T0213 - FRONT DAMPERS.
T0214 - FRONT DAMPER MOUNTING SPREADER.
T0215 - NUT AND BOLT PACK.
The top wishbones T0200/T0201 are difficult to recognise in terms of
passenger and driver side and the top and bottom of the wishbone. Looking
at the pointed end of the wishbone which holds the top swivel, the taper hole
faces down towards the ground. This taper also faces slightly forward. With
the wishbone in the correct position, the front leg of the wishbone is slightly
longer than the rear leg.
Donor Parts required
Two front hub assemblies complete with top ball joints, brakes, callipers,
brake pads and outer part of drive shaft assembly. Steering arm mounting
Front suspension assembly
Bush assemblies T0207 should be assembled using molybdenum type grease
included in the pack. Separate all parts of the bush, including the stainless
steel inner sleeves. Grease inside and out of the parts and reassemble inside
the top wishbone T0200. Push the bush into the top wishbone T0200 with a
vice. If the bush will not sit totally inside the wishbone then rotate it slightly in
the vice. Put the bushes in to the top and bottom wishbones for the front
suspension: T0200, T0201, T0202 and T0203.
Install the front wishbone mounting brackets T0204 to the top and bottom front
wishbones. Using the Ø10 x 50mm bolts from fastener pack T0215 (B), keep
the bushes and bracket lined up while other assembly takes place. Have the
head of the bolt facing inwards towards the other bracket. The positions of
the wishbone mounting brackets are indicated on the monocoque by small
indentations. Hold the front RHS wishbone assembly, complete with the
mounting brackets, to the monocoque. The indentations in the monocoque
should line up with the holes in the bracket. Any slight misalignments should
be marked on the monocoque.
Drill out one hole for each of the brackets using a pilot drill and double check
the right position for the holes. Drill the two holes to Ø6mm clearance. Mount
each bracket to the monocoque using a Ø6mm bolt from fastener pack T0215
(A) in the hole drilled.
© GTM CARS LTD. 5.2
Use this assembly as a jig to drill out the
remaining holes needed for the
The 3mm spacer plate must be added to the assembly before the wishbone is
finally put on to the monocoque. The spacer plate is located in between the
monocoque and the mounting bracket.
Loosely mount the top wishbone assembly using the Ø6mm
bolts from the T0215 (A) pack. The spreader plate is then
slotted on to the assembly from the inside of the monocoque.
Use the Ø6 x 35mm long bolts from fastener pack T0215
(A) for mounting except where these bolts will not totally
penetrate the monocoque. For the thicker areas of the
monocoque, 40mm and 45mm long bolts are provided.
Use the shortest bolts possible in the assembly. Mount
only the top wishbones to the monocoque.
Note: it is much easier to mount the brackets with the wishbone assembled
then to assemble the wishbones after the brackets have been bolted to the
Use the Nyloc nuts from pack T0215 (B) and tighten the bolts holding the
wishbone to the mounting bracket. Note that no washers are used in this
assembly to allow the Nyloc nuts to fully penetrate the bolts.
Once you are satisfied everything appears correct, tighten all Nyloc nuts.
The bottom swivels T0208 can now be mounted to the bottom
wishbones using fastener pack T0215 (G). It is easiest to put
one bolt and washer through the swivel and the wishbone and
then rotate the swivel to line up the other two holes. Insert the
other two bolts and washers. Put on Nyloc nuts and washers.
Tighten the Nyloc nuts on the bottom swivel T0208.
© GTM CARS LTD. 5.3
Hold the completed bottom wishbone assembly to the
monocoque roughly over the indentations. Drill one
hole on each bracket and insert a bolt from fastener
pack T0215 (A). Using this assembly as a jig, pilot
drill the remaining holes. Open the holes to a Ø6mm
clearance. Attach the bottom wishbone assembly including the spacer plates
on the outer side of the monocoque using fastener pack T0215 (A).
Locate the spreader plate on the inside of the monocoque and add washers
and Nyloc nuts. Once you are satisfied with the position of both bottom
wishbones, tighten all the Nyloc nuts.
Mount the front damper brackets T0212 to the monocoque using fastener
pack T0215 (C) in a similar manner to the wishbone mounting brackets.
Take the front damper T0213 and pull out the piston until the
black ring at the top slips off. Slide the black spring T0211 over
the damper. (The spring has no orientation).
Replace the black ring and push the piston back down.
Locate the piston end of the damper into the damper bracket
T0213. Secure with a 60mm long bolt from fastener pack
T0215 (). Push the bottom of the damper in to the housing
on the top wishbone T0200. Secure with a 65mm long bolt.
Add washers and Nyloc nuts and tighten the assembly.
Assemble the front LHS metro hub to the RHS of the Libra. The bottom
swivel T0208 slots in to the bottom of the hub. The metro top ball joint is then
© GTM CARS LTD. 5.4
olted through the top wishbone T0200. Repeat on the LHS of the Libra with
the metro RHS front hub.
The Libra rear suspension is an advanced design.
The rear suspension utilises two trailing wishbones on
either side of the car. These wishbones like the front
wishbones are mounted directly via brackets to the
monocoque. Standard Metro front hub assemblies are
bolted to the trailing wishbones using the standard ball
joints at the top and bottom. The bottom ball joint must
be the standard Metro bottom ball joint and not the
GTA or GTi ball joint. Special steering arms are bolted
to the hubs using the standard locations and these in
turn are connected using the standard Metro track rod
end via an adjustable link to a special ball joint. This is
then mounted to the upper trailing wishbone. Special upside down adjustable
spring height coil over shock absorber units mount between the top trailing
wishbone and a mounting bracket bolted directly to the monocoque, high on
the rear panel. THE LHS METRO HUB IS USED ON THE RHS OF THE
LIBRA AND THE RHS HUB ON THE LHS.
Kit components required.
1 x T0300 Rear suspension arm top driver’s side.
1 x T0301 Rear suspension arm bottom passenger side.
1 x T0302 Rear suspension arm lower drivers side.
1 x T0303 Rear suspension arm passenger side.
2 x T0324 Inner rear suspension mounting bracket.
2 x T0325 Outer rear suspension mounting bracket.
8 x T0305 Rear suspension mounting bracket spreader.
8 x T0307 Rear suspension arm bearing.
1 x T0308 Rear steering arms driver side.
1 x T0309 Rear steering arms passenger side.
2 x T0310 Rear suspension steering arm track rod end.
© GTM CARS LTD. 5.5
2 x T0311 Rear suspension arm track rod end.
2 x T0312 Rear suspension arm adjusting link.
2 x T0313 Rear suspension arm LHT adapter.
2 x T0323 Rear damper unit.
2 x T0315 Rear damper spring.
2 x T0316 Rear damper mounting.
2 x T0317 Rear bumper mounting plate.
1 x T0318 Rear suspension, nut and bolt pack.
4 x T0319 Rear suspension, rod end lock nut.
8 x T0320 Rear suspension, rod end adjuster.
Donor parts required
Two front hub assemblies (solid discs) complete with top ball joint & bottom
swivels (not GTi.)
Rear suspension assembly.
The rear suspension mounts directly to the monocoque. Look at the RHS rear
of the monocoque and identify the indentations made for the mounting
brackets T0324 and T0325. T0324 lines up with the inner set of indentations
and T0325 lines up with the outer set of indentations. Check that all the
indentations line up and mark and misalignments. With a small pilot drill, drill
out the centre of the indentations and then open out to a Ø6mm clearance.
Repeat on the LHS with T0324 on the inside set of indentations and T0325 on
the outer set of indentations.
Loosely mount all four mounting brackets using Ø6mm socket cap head
screws 35mm long from fastener pack T0318 (A). 40mm long bolts are also
provided in this pack to penetrate the thick areas of the fibre glass so that a
Nyloc nut can fit satisfactorily. Use a washer provided in the fastener pack
T0318 (A) between each bolt head and the monocoque.
The rear suspension brackets do not use spacers in between the monocoque
and the bracket. This is due to that fact that a suspension adjustment is
obtained by adjusting the screw threads from the bearings to the wishbone.
Note that the outer mounting brackets T0325 have tapering holes facing
towards each other and the rear suspension arm bearing is inserted from the
bottom and one from the top unlike bracket T0324 where both rear
suspension arm bearings are inserted from the top.
Take four rear suspension arm bearings
T0307 and locate locking nuts on to the
longer threaded end.
© GTM CARS LTD. 5.6
Screw these bearings in to the pre tapped
tube in the wishbones T0300, T0301, T0302
and T0303. Adjust these inner bearings so that
centre of the ball is 39mm from the top of
the tapped tube that holds the bearing.
Turn the lock nut down to the pre-tapped tube and tighten to hold the bearing
Take the remaining four rear suspension arm bearings
T0307. Each outer bearing is held in the wishbone by two
adjuster nuts T0320. These nuts allow the wishbone to be
adjusted when assembled to the car without the removal of
the bearing from its housing. Screw the long threaded end
into one the adjuster nuts T0320 from the top end of the
Insert another adjuster nut T0320 from the bottom
end of the housing and locate the end of the bearing
and carry on screwing in the bearing. Screw in the
bearing until the top edge of the housing is 39mm
away from the centre of the ball of the bearing. This
will be re adjusted when the car is prepared for the road.
The wishbones can now be assembled to the mounting
brackets. T0300 and T0301 assemble to the top of the
mounting brackets T0324/T0325 and T0302 and T0303
assemble to the bottom of the brackets. Use the Nyloc nuts
and washers provided in T0318 (B) to attach the wishbones,
remembering the outer bottom bearings insert from
underneath. Once all four wishbones are loosely assembled
to the monocoque, tighten the Nyloc nuts.
© GTM CARS LTD. 5.7
Locate the two shock absorber brackets T0316. On the rear of the
monocoque look for two sets of four indentations under the rear window. Pilot
drill these indentations and open up to Ø6mm clearance. Secure the brackets
T0316 using bolts, washers and Nyloc nuts from fastener pack T0318 (E).
Take the shock absorber T0323 and the spring T0315. Pull the piston of the
shocker until the black ring around the top slips off. Slip the spring over the
top of the shock absorber. Replace the black ring around the top by pulling
piston further out if necessary.
The top end of the shock absorber bolts in to bracket
T0316 using fastener pack T0318 (F). The bottom end of
the shock absorber bolts onto the top trailing wishbone
(T0300, T0301) using fastener pack T0318 (G).
The standard Rover Metro hub assembly can now be mounted to the
wishbone using the standard top and bottom swivels. The bottom swivel is
mounted to the top face of the bottom wishbone using the Ø8 x 25mm long
socket cap bolts.
The Libra steering arms T0308 replace the standard Rover Metro steering
arms, T0309. These arms are attached to the hub assembly by the Ø10 x
35mm long bolts.
Note the standard Rover Metro location sleeves are retained.
Build up the rear track rods by first fully screwing in the left hand thread
adapter T0313 to the track rod end T0310. This adapter should be securely
screwed in to the track rod end preferably with some form of lock tight. Screw
the left hand threaded half nut to the left and threaded adapter followed by the
adjusting link (Approx. Ball center to center is 330mm.) T0312. Screw the
14mm half nut on to the track rod end T0311 and then the track rod end into
the adjusting link. This assembly can now be fitted to the rear suspension
taking care to make sure that the tapers are well seated. Adjust the adjusting
link to give an approximate straight-ahead position of the hub, which will be
adjusted more accurately on the setup for the road.
© GTM CARS LTD. 5.8
HEATER, PETROL TANK & RADIATOR
BATTERY & BATTERY MOULDING
HEATER and PIPE WORK………………………………………..6.2
Heater and pipe work assembly………………………..6.2
Fresh air vents assembly……………………………..6.3
PETROL TANK FILLER…………………………………………...6.4
Neck and cap………………………………………………6.4
Neck and cap assembly………………………………….6.5
RADIATOR DUCTING & SPLASH MOULDS……………………6.6
Radiator ducting & splash moulds assembly………..6.6
RADIATOR MOULD, RADIATOR & PIPE WORK………………6.7
© GTM CARS LTD. 5.9
Radiator mould, radiator & pipe work assembly…….6.7
PIPES & SERVICES THROUGH THE TUNNEL…………………6.9
BATTERY AND BATTERY MOULDING
A standard K Series Rover Metro battery is employed on the Libra and is
located in a purpose made box under the spare wheel.
Special battery leads are provided in the kit, which run from the battery
through the tunnel to the engine compartment,
Battery and Battery Moulding Assembly
The battery mounting T0109 mounts between the monocoque and the radiator
ducting. Drill the four small holes in the battery mounting Ø6mm in the
positions indicated by the small indentations. Place the battery mounting
between the monocoque and the radiator ducting to identify the holes that
require to be drilled. Remove the battery mounting and drill the four Ø6mm
holes where indicated.
Replace the battery mounting and attach using Ø6 x 25mm set bolts, Nylocs
and large diameter washers. The bottom bolts that go through the radiator
ducting should be fed through from the bottom so as to minimise the amount
showing under the car.
The battery from the Rover Metro can now be fitted in the battery mounting
with the terminals closest to the monocoque.
The battery leads can now be fitted from the battery towards the drivers side
of the car and through the recess made in the moulding round through the
tunnel over the petrol tank and through the engine.
The red (positive) lead attaches to the solenoid attached to the starter motor
and black (negative) lead runs over the solenoid and starter motor and
attaches to the gearbox bolt immediately behind the starter motor.
The battery leads are attached in the tunnel as indicated on the tunnel
© GTM CARS LTD. 6.1
HEATER AND PIPEWORK
The Libra utilises the standard Metro heater unit. It is mounted in the same
manner as in the Metro but has a special air pipe from the heater fan unit to
the mixer unit in the car. The screen de-misters are special to the Libra and
are fed through flexible pipes. Special fresh air ventilators are provided in the
centre of the dashboard and these are fed via a plenum chamber provided in
the internal structure of the dashboard which in turn is fed by the conventional
outlet from the heater unit. Rubber piping feeds the heater unit within the car
through the front bulkhead down to the tunnel at the front of the car. It then
goes through aluminum pipes that run through the tunnel to the engine end of
the car and then through rubber pipes to the standard heater outlets from the
Heater & Pipe work assembly
Refer to drawing No 10; take the standard Rover Metro fan assembly and
remove the metal clip opposite the central front hole flush with the front of the
Using a small diameter drill, drill out the six holes in the monocoque to mount
the heater fan assembly in the position indicated by the small indentations.
Open out these holes to Ø6mm clearance. Using the drawing provided, mark
out the aperture required enabling the square air pipe to pass through the
bulkhead. Drill the four corner positions with a Ø10mm drill. Using a jigsaw or
by chain drilling remove the shape from the monocoque. Clean the edges
with a suitable file or production paper.
The heater unit can now be mounted to the monocoque using Ø6mm set bolt
20mm long washers and Nyloc nuts. When screwing the Ø6mm long set bolts
into the captive nuts on the top of the heater blower unit make sure that the
bolts do not protrude too far and foul the plastic of the heater unit. If
necessary cut the bolts down in length. The top face of the heater blower unit
may have to be trimmed to allow the bonnet to fit correctly.
It is extremely important that prior to finally fitting the heater blower unit that
the two mating faces are clean and the rubber gasket is intact to prevent
water seeping through into the cockpit. If you are in any doubt whatsoever it
is advisable to use clear silicone sealant between the two. The Ø6mm bolt
along the front edge of the heater mounting plate in the front outside corner
can be difficult to fit as it is extremely close to the outside edge of the
monocoque. By fitting the plate loosely with the other bolts it is possible to
drill at an angle to get this bolt in.
The heater mixer unit can now be fitted from under the dashboard. Before
fitting the heater mixer unit to the underside of the dashboard it is better at this
stage to fit the heater air duct T0120 to the heater unit. The air duct is
© GTM CARS LTD. 6.2
attached to the heater unit using two or three small self-tapping screws.
Where the heater air duct comes up to the fan unit it is necessary to pack the
gap out using a suitable piece of foam. Looking up from under the dashboard
the two holes required to mount the heater have small indents. Pilot drill the
centers and drill out to Ø8mm clearance. The heater unit can now be bolted
up under the dashboard using two Ø8 x 25mm long set bolts, washers and
Mark the position of the two holes required enabling the heater pipes T0811 to
run through the front bulkhead. Make sure the positions are such that the
pipes miss the spare wheel when in position and also miss the heater blower
unit. Use the grommets to determine the minimum center distance. Drill the
two holes with a Ø35mm hole saw. Clean the holes using production paper.
A good seal is required here to prevent water running through the grommet
into the car. Fit the grommets in the holes and thread the heater pipes
through and secure to the heater unit using jubilee clips. The pipes can now
be run through round the outside of the spare wheel and through the front of
the battery mounting mould onto the aluminum pipes running through the
tunnel. Note that at the heater end of the pipe work a part of the Rover Metro
heater hose is used so as to retain the bleed facility.
At the rear end of the car the heater hoses run above the petrol tank to the
joiners. The Joiners join the standard heater hose into part of the original
Metro hoses and then into the standard positions on the engine.
Fresh Air Vents Assembly
The fresh air vents T0696 are attached to the front of the structural dashboard
with the centres of the vents as indicated on the dashboard moulding.
Drill out the centres with a small drill
and hole saw to Ø70mm. Carefully
remove the centre of the fresh air
eyeball T0696 and use the outside as
a template to drill the four locating
holes through the dashboard fascia.
The holes need to be Ø3mm. These
holes need to be countersunk to allow
the bezel plate T1716 to fit flush
against the dashboard. Do this using
either a specialist countersink drill
piece or use a larger drill bit and carefully drill out just enough to let the head
of the bolt through.
The outside of the fresh air vents can now be attached from the inside of the
dashboard and held in place by four countersunk screws, nuts and washers.
The centre eyeball of the air vent can now be pushed carefully in from the
front of the dashboard.
Attach Bezel plate T1716 to the front of the dashboard with either contact
adhesive or hot melt glue. Check that the eyeballs rotate freely.
© GTM CARS LTD. 6.3
Put in place the plenum chamber T0122 over the internal part of the
dashboard to direct the air from the heater to the eyeballs. The LHS bolt
holding the heater mixer unit is also used as an earth point so it is necessary
to be able to get to it easily. Use a 32mm hole saw to cut away the corner
enough to get a socket to the earth point.
When fitting the plenum chamber be careful to seal off the holes with a
suitable sealing material to prevent any air leaks. Also seal around the edge
of the plenum chamber to prevent air leaks.
With the heater switched on, the eyeballs should now give a good amount of
fresh air to the cabin.
PETROL TANK FILLER NECK AND CAP
The Libra utilises the standard K Series Rover Metro petrol tank. The tank
must be the appropriate one for the engine being used i.e. should the engine
be fuel injected the tank must contain the appropriate fuel injection pump.
The petrol tank mounts under the monocoque behind the seats. The standard
petrol tank sender-unit is employed. A special flush fitting aluminum filler cap
is mounted on the driver’s side of the car and feeds through a special steel
pipe through the monocoque into the petrol tank.
Petrol Tank Filler Neck and Cap Assembly
Remove the fuel injection pump and the petrol gauge sender unit if separate
from the standard K Series Rover Metro petrol tank. Ensure that all the petrol
has been removed from the tank. It is essential that all the petrol be removed
prior to working on the tank to prevent the explosion. Where the filler neck
enters the body of the petrol tank cut it so that it protrudes from the petrol tank
20mm. Remove any brackets that may be supporting the petrol tank neck on
the standard K Series Rover Metro tank.
Where the large breather tube leaves the petrol tank cut the tube
approximately 60mm from the right angle bend.
The various years of K Series Rover Metro petrol tanks have had several
different forms of venting. Apart from the large diameter 5 * breather pipe
mentioned in the above paragraph cut of and seal up all the other breathers
coming out of the tank.
The GTM breather is taken from a T Piece positioned in the * diameter
breather pipe close to the petrol pipe adapter T0621 and as shown in drawing
The petrol tank should only be fitted to the monocoque once all the services
have been run through the tunnel including the handbrake cables.
© GTM CARS LTD. 6.4
The Ø6mm breather pipe is taken up into the driver’s side box section and
back down through the same hole as the main petrol pipe and tie wrapped
appropriately at the point where it exits the body. This breather pipe needs to
be kept well away from the exhaust system.
Referring to the petrol tank drawing in this manual, position the tank under the
monocoque and determine the appropriate position for the new holes that
have to be drilled in the petrol tank flange adjacent to the tunnel of the
monocoque. These holes need to be positioned so that the bolts would run
through into the lugs provided in the monocoque moulding. Remove the tank
and drill Ø6mm clearance holes. Reposition the tank under the car and mark
the two holes previously drilled and the other two mounting holes. Remove
the tank and drill all four Ø6mm clearance holes. Position the tank under the
car again and mark the position for the filler tube to come through the
monocoque and the large diameter vent pipe. Remove the petrol tank and
hole saw two appropriate holes into the monocoque to give a good clearance.
Replace the petrol pump and sender unit into the petrol tank. Attach 500mm
of the 5/16” ID petrol pipe to the original K Series Rover Banjo and attach to
tank. Attach 1200mm of 5/16” ID rubber pipe to the return on the petrol tank.
The petrol tank can now be attached to the monocoque using three Ø6 x
25mm long set bolts, washers and Nylocs and one 55mm long x Ø6 bolt
through spacer tube TO622 at the rear of the petrol tank.
Cut, using a hole saw or by chain drilling, the aperture for the petrol filler
T0620. Drill Ø5mm clearance holes for the mounting bolts. Mount the petrol
filler to the outside of the monocoque complete with its funnel. Using T0624
and the 50mm ID rubber pipe 2 inches long attach T0621 adapter pipe
between the filler T0620 and the petrol tank. The 50mm ID rubber pipe 2
inches long can be slid onto the aluminium funnel and then with adapter pipe
T0620 in place the pipe slid back over the gap.
Insert the plastic T piece for the Ø6mm breather pipe into the * ID rubber pipe
coming from the tank and re-connect the other side of the T piece to the
adapter pipe T0621.
It is extremely important when you have completed you car and it is ready for
the road that you check all the petrol pipe joins for leakage. Do not run your
car until you are satisfied that there are absolutely no leaks in the system.
RADIATOR DUCTING AND SPLASH MOULDS TO MONOCOQUE
The front end of the Libra is held together by the radiator ducting mould. It is
bolted to the monocoque. The design is such to allow a degree of crash
protection in front of the monocoque. The radiator moulding, battery
moulding, bonnet hinges etc. all mount to the radiator ducting mould.
Radiator ducting and splash moulds to monocoque assembly
The radiator ducting T0107 attaches to the monocoque T0100 using six
Ø6mm set bolts 25mm long, Nyloc nuts and large diameter washers from
© GTM CARS LTD. 6.5
fastener pack T0607. With the ducting T0107 resting on the car with the two
vertical faces up against the monocoque you will see two indents where the
Ø6mm bolts fit. Remove the moulding and drill these two holes with a Ø6mm
clearance hole. Replace the radiator ducting and position snugly on the
monocoque and mark the two holes. Remove the ducting and drill these two
marked holes a good Ø6mm clearance i.e. Ø8mm. Make sure that the top
face of the radiator ducting moulding protrudes above the top surface of the
central monocoque by approximately 15mm to enable the rubber trim
moulding to fit correctly. Replace the ducting and bolt up the ducting to the
monocoque using two of the Ø6mm bolts.
Now looking from the top of the radiator ducting and inside the ducting
adjacent to the heater blower unit and the pedal box, two further indentations
can be seen for the mounting bolts. Holding the ducting snugly against the
monocoque drill these holes Ø6mm clearance. Remove the ducting and open
out these holes to a good Ø6mm clearance i.e. Ø8mm.
Replace the ducting and secure with Ø6mm bolts, Nylocs and washers.
When bolted up there is a deliberate slot on the rear edge between the
moulding and the monocoque to allow water to drain. Do not fill this slot with
Now working from within the wheel arches drill a Ø6mm clearance hole
through the ducting and the monocoque on the flange of the ducting
approximately 15mm from the first angle of the wheel arch on the monocoque.
Bolt through with Ø6mm bolts, washers and Nyloc nuts.
Two small splash mouldings TO112/3 are attached to the monocoque using
No 8 self tapping screws and washers from fastener pack T0607 to finish off
the seal path of the wheel arches. The shiny side of the splash mouldings
face towards the door closures. The splash mouldings have a rebated portion
that fits over the end of the radiator ducting.
The shape of the splash moulding means it positions itself. Working from the
inside of the wheel arch attach the splash moulding to the monocoque. The
top edge of the splash mouldings align with the top edge of the radiator
ducting. At the top end of the splash moulding where it goes over the
radiator ducting, drill through both splash moulding and radiator ducting to
allow both components to be attached using the self-tapping screws. When
attaching the mouldings with self-tapping screws drill a clearance hole first in
the splash mouldings and the radiator ducting and the appropriate tapping
size holes in the monocoque.
RADIATOR MOULD, RADIATOR AND PIPEWORK
The Libra uses the standard Metro radiator complete with fan assembly. The
radiator locates using its four standard rubbers to the radiator mounting
mould, which in turn bolts to the radiator ducting. In this way the air entering
the front of the car is forced to flow through the radiator. Rubber and
aluminum pipe work takes the water from the engine through the tunnel
through the radiator and back to the engine. The radiator is mounted upside
down compared to the conventional Metro installation with the cooling fan
© GTM CARS LTD. 6.6
assembly on the right hand side. A radiator bleed pipe is used as on the
standard Metro and is fed via rubber pipes through the tunnel to the header
Radiator mould, Radiator and pipe work assembly
Refer to drawing No 9, start the assembly by fitting the radiator to the radiator
The radiator is mounted upside down with the fan on the driver’s side and the
funny shape plastic legs at the bottom. The radiator is mounted on the
standard K Series Rover Metro rubbers. Drill the 2 holes in the top face of the
radiator support, indicated by the small indents with a small pilot drill. Open
out to approximately Ø17mm with a hole saw. Drill the holes indicated on the
bottom mount in a similar manner and open up with a Ø17mm hole saw. Cut
away the area indicated by the scribe lines on the moulding. This is so that
the radiator can be slotted in.
Fit the two standard round Rover Metro radiator mounting rubbers in the two
top holes. Mount two square Rover Metro mounting rubbers onto the plastic
bottom legs which will be at the bottom of the radiator. Slip the two top tubes
of the radiator mountings through the two top bushes already fitted to the
support moulding and then slide in the two bottom rubbers already attached to
the radiator into the slots previously made in the support. The radiator should
now hold itself satisfactorily in the support. Remove the radiator from the
Bolt the radiator support T0108 to the radiator ducting T0107 using two Ø6mm
bolts 15mm long, Ø20mm washers and Nyloc nuts. Force the radiator support
mould down onto the radiator ducting mould and drill three Ø6mm clearance
holes along the bottom lip of the support moulding to attach it to the radiator
ducting mould. Bolt through with three Ø6 x 15mm long set bolts, Nyloc nuts
and 20mm washers. These bolts should be positioned through from the
underside of the car to minimise the amount showing under the car. The
radiator can now be remounted into the support moulding attached to the
ducting mould. The radiator support should not overhang the radiator ducting
so bolt in as tightly as you can.
The radiator water flows from the radiator through aluminium pipes to the
engine. These pipes are joined by standard Rover Metro rubber hoses which
require cutting and modification. The rubber pipes are attached to the
aluminium pipes using the jubilee clips provided.
After the water has left the radiator via a rubber 90-degree bend, a portion of
the standard Rover Metro radiator steel pipe is used to facilitate the bleed
pipe. This is located on the driver’s side. Cut the standard Rover Metro pipe
to a length of 210mm long with the bleed pipe approximately 25mm from one
The other entire Ø1 1/8 " pipes are in aluminium and are provided within the kit.
© GTM CARS LTD. 6.7
Work through from the front of the car through the tunnel and to the engine.
The Ø5/16” rubber bleed pipe, which comes from the standard Rover Metro
pipe at the front, goes through the tunnel over the petrol tank and through the
header tank on the driver’s side of the engine. Mounting with the terminals
closest to the monocoque.
The battery lead can now be fitted from the battery towards the drivers side of
the car and through the recess made in the moulding round through the tunnel
over the petrol tank and through to the engine. The red positive lead
connects to the solenoid attached to the starter motor and the black negative
lead runs over the solenoid and starter motor and attaches to the gearbox bolt
immediately behind the starter motor.
The battery leads are attached in the tunnel as indicated on the tunnel
diagram (No 8).
PIPES AND SERVICES THROUGH THE TUNNEL
Before any pipes can be run through the tunnel is it important to cut the
aperture for the gear lever and mount the gear change bracket T0404. Also
try to drill the holes for the handbrake brackets. For details how to do this look
in section ().
The first pipes to be run through the tunnel are the Ø15mm aluminium heater
pipes T0810. Refer to drawing No 8 and 10. The heater pipes run along the
LHS of the tunnel. This is the same whether it is a left or right hand drive.
Use P clips from pack T0813 and secure the pipes at intervals down the
tunnel. Make sure the P clips will not get in the way of the gear change. Use
fastener pack T0815 (I) to hold the P clips to the tunnel. Push the bolts
through from the outside of the tunnel inwards, using a washer and Nyloc nut
on the inside of the tunnel. Make sure the heater pipes protrude 140mm at
the front of the monocoque.
Battery cables T0909 need to run down the RHS of the tunnel. To get an idea
of how long the battery cables need to be at the front of the car it is a good
idea to put the battery mounting T0109 in place with a battery and loosely
connect the cable so you can see the lengths needed. Remove the battery
and battery mounting T0109 and p clip the cables at four intervals along the
tunnel. Make sure that one p clip is near the gear change so that it keeps the
battery cables firm against the monocoque to prevent fowling.
© GTM CARS LTD. 6.8
All other cables through the tunnel are tie wrapped to the p clipped cables.
For rough locations in the tunnel refer to drawing No 8. Tie wraps can be
found in fastener pack T0912. The Speedo cable T0702 is run down the RHS
of the tunnel. Roughly make sure the Speedo cable can reach the instrument
binnacle at the front of the car before tie wrapping it to the brake pipes. Run
the clutch cable and wiring loom in a similar way. The handbrake cables will
eventually also be tie wrapped to go over the petrol tank. The clutch cable,
heater pipes and gear change rods run underneath the petrol tank. All other
pipes through the tunnel will run over the petrol tank so it is important to get
these cables close together so they will fit comfortably in the aperture. Before
the petrol tank is put in place the rubber piping needs to be fitted to the rear
end of the smaller aluminium heater pipes using Jubilee clips. These rubber
pipes can then also be run over the petrol tank.
Anything loose in this area will rub against the side of the gear change when
used and eventually fail. When the car is complete ask someone to work the
gear change whilst you have a good look under the tunnel to make sure that
nothing is catching or fowling.
© GTM CARS LTD. 6.9
Main headlights assembly…………………………..7.1
Front indicators assembly………………………….7.1
Side repeater assembly……………………………...7.1
Rear light unit assembly…………………………….7.3
Number plate light assembly……………………….7.3
Fog and reversing lamp assembly…………………7.3
© GTM CARS LTD. 6.10
All the lights used on the Libra are mounted externally to the body mouldings.
The lights on the front and rear panels are fed by a separate wiring loom
which is plugged into the main wiring loom to enable the panels to be
removed completely without disturbing the wiring.
Main headlight assembly
The main headlights T1300 (dip and
main beam) and the driving lights
T1311 are held in to the bonnet in the
same manner. Locate the centre of the
circle which is marked to be cut out.
The template in chapter 13 may be
useful for this. Pilot drill a small hole at
the middle of the inner circle. Use a
Ø79mm hole saw and cut out the centre
of the mounting face. Try to ensure the
outline of the hole saw matches up to
the outline on the moulding.
With a small pilot drill, centre the three
© GTM CARS LTD. 7.0
mounting holes for the driving lights and headlights, as indicated in the bonnet
moulding. Drill out these holes to Ø7mm.
Unclip the backs for the driving lights and
headlights (T1300 and T1311). Insert the
halogen bulbs taking great care not to touch
the glass as this can damage the bulb. The
smaller bulbs with two pins go in to the driving
lights T1311 and the larger bulbs with three
pins go in to the headlights T1300.
Mount the light units into the plastic retainers
T1301. The light units are retained in the
holders by three spring loaded clips that go over
the top face of the light unit and clip behind the
rear face of the plastic holder.
The whole assembly then mounts into the
bonnet with the spring and washer on the
outside of the bonnet and a washer and
thumbscrew on the inside of the bonnet. The
headlights go in the top large moulding and the
driving lights go on the bottom large moulding.
By adjusting the thumbscrews the angle and
direction of the light unit can be adjusted. On the driving light T1311 it is
necessary to remove one of the three slotted retaining clips attached to the
light unit to ensure the light fits the holder. This can be conveniently removed
using electrical side cutters. The clip to be removed is the top clip just to the
left-hand side of the centre top position.
Front indicator assembly
Side lights assembly
Pilot drill a centre hole and then
remove the centre of the mounting
faces for the lights to approximately
Ø44mm. Using the lights as a
template, drill out the three mounting
holes through the face of the light
using a Ø3.5mm drill. Mount the lights
using three No 8 12mm long selftapping
screws from light fastener
pack T1318 (A).
Pilot drill a centre hole in the smallest light moulding. Using a Ø22mm hole
© GTM CARS LTD. 7.1
saw, opening up a hole just big enough to push the side lights through.
Side repeater assembly
Mount the side repeater lights T1316 on the bonnet. The repeater lights
should be in line with the top of the front wheel arches and with their centre
approximately 150mm from the rear face of the bonnet. The size of the hole
needed is Ø20mm. A template is provided in chapter 13. The template fits to
the bottom of the bonnet on either side.
Rear light unit assembly
To mount the rear light units T1304 drill the rear moulding to
Ø44mm clearance as indicated. Pilot drill the two mounting
holes for each indicator and brake light. Open these holes out
to Ø3.5mm ready for No 8 self tapping screws. Mount the light
units using the screws provided in the light fastener pack
T1318 (B). The rear connector of the indicators and brake lights can now be
screwed in with the bulb.
Peel the back of the reflector off and attach to the third moulding in the light
Number plate unit assembly
The number plate light T1310 mounts on the rear panel in the centre so as to
illuminate the rear number plate. Mount the light unit so that its rear most face
is approximately 8mm from the rear face of the car. Cut a hole in the rear
panel approximately 53mm long and 20mm wide to accept the mountings of
the number plate light unit. Clip in the light unit. Note that you have to drill
through both the outer and inner skin of the boot.
Fog and rear light unit assembly
The rear fog lamp T1306 and reversing
lamp T1307 are mounted in a similar
manner. First cut off the plastic hanger
type bracket at the top of the light units.
Remove the front glass panel of the
© GTM CARS LTD. 7.2
units and remove the units from their backing plate by undoing the two self-
tapping screws. Drill Ø2 x 4mm clearance mounting hole through the
mounting plate of the light units.
Position the two light units in the rebated
panel on the rear section and drill
through the mounting plates with an
Ø3.5mm drill. Secure the mounting
plates with No 8 self-tapping screws.
Drill out the wire exit hole to Ø12mm
clearance hole. Re-assemble the light
Headlight covers are provided within the kit for the main/dip headlight units.
The Perspex covers fit within a rebate in the bonnet moulding. Stainless
steel self-tapping screws retain the covers.
Headlight Cover assembly
The Perspex headlight covers provided in the kit are already cut to size and
shape. A small amount of sanding of the edges maybe required to make
them fit precisely into the bonnet rebate. Stainless steel screws as per the
rear screen can be used to locate the headlamp covers into the bonnet.
However a number of customers have fixed their headlamp covers in with
black self tapping screws. The Perspex covers come pre drilled and the holes
in the covers can be used to locate the fixing holes into the panel. This is
done by putting a pilot drill through the existing hole in the Perspex cover,
removing the cover and drilling through a clearance hole in the glass fibre
bonnet section or if using self tapping screws the right size hole for the self
tapper being used.
© GTM CARS LTD. 7.3
FRONT & REAR SCREEN AND WIPERS
Perspex screens rear and side…………………….8.2
Fitting and assembly………………………………...8.2
Washer bottle, pipes and jets……………………....8.3
WIPER MOTOR & BLADES……………………………………….8.3
© GTM CARS LTD. 7.4
PERSPEX SCREENS REAR AND SIDE
The GTM Libra uses Perspex screens to the rear and sides of the car. These
screens are attached to the rear panel using stainless steel nuts and bolts.
The side screens are shaped in such a manner to enable air to be drawn into
the engine bay.
Perspex Screens Rear and Side assembly
The rear window T1006 and the two engine cover side windows T1003 and
T1104 are all made from Perspex. The windows are supplied pre-formed and
all fixing holes are pre-drilled. Position the windows into the moulding
apertures centralise the position and tape into place. Drill through the holes in
the Perspex to mark the glass fibre area which locates the window. Make
sure the drill is smaller than the holes in the Perspex window. Once the
position has been marked in the glass fibre remove the Perspex windows and
drill through the fibreglass with a clearance hole the same size as the hole in
the Perspex windows. You may want to paint a black band on the moulding
around the window surround or fit a rubber strip between the Perspex and the
rear moulding. Fix the Perspex windows in place with the stainless steel
fittings in the Perspex fixing pack T1108.
WINDSCREEN AND REAR BULKHEAD SCREEN
The windscreen and rear bulkhead screen on the Libra are both bonded to the
monocoque using conventional bonding agents. The front screen is laminated
© GTM CARS LTD. 8.1
and tinted and the rear screen is toughened glass.
Windscreen and rear bulkhead screen assembly
Although we have fitted a number of windscreens and rear bulkhead screens
ourselves it is strongly recommended that the fitting of the two screens should
be undertaken by a professional windscreen fitter. Using a professional
windscreen fitter has a number of advantages.
1. They will guarantee a fit without leakage.
2. They will be able to offer a number of rubber trim panels to go around the
outside edge of the glass which in turn will make a much neater job.
3. They will be able to supply the black primer paint which is required for the
inside edge of the screens to obscure the glue when they bond them in.
WINDSCREEN WASHER BOTTLE PIPES AND JETS
The Libra utilises the standard Rover Metro washer bottle, pipes and jets.
The bottle is mounted on pre-moulded supports in the radiator ducting and the
pipes run from the bottle through the front bulkhead of the monocoque to
moulded positions for the two jets.
Windscreen Washer Bottle Pipes and Jets assembly
The standard K Series Rover screen washer bottle is secured to the top of the
radiator ducting with three No 8 self tapping screws 12mm long. The screen
jet tube runs under the washer bottle through the same grommet as the
Speedo cable and across the dashboard to the two K Series Rover Metro
screen jets. These jets fit into the bodywork on the two raised sections either
side of the central mounting position for the bonnet. The standard K Series 'T'
pieces are used between the two jets and the pipe down to the washer bottle.
It is necessary to block off the rear screen wash washer pipe. Measure the
centre of each raised section and pilot drill a hole. Open out to Ø7mm and file
off rough edges. The jets should just push fit in to the hole. Thread the pipe
under the wiper mechanism and out through the smaller grommet in the RHS
of the front bulkhead. From here it connects to the washer bottle.
WIPER MOTOR AND BLADES
© GTM CARS LTD. 8.2
Special wiper blades T0685 are used which are provided in the kit. The arms
are standard K Series Rover Metro.
Wiper motor and blades assembly
The standard K Series wiper motor
and mechanism fits directly into the
Libra and fits from the underside of
the dashboard. The car has been
designed for both left and right hand
drives. The right hand version using
the two marked holes one in the
passenger side of the center and the
other on the driver’s side. This can be
checked by holding the wiper motor
assembly against the outside of the
car to make sure you’ve got the two correct holes. While the wipers are held
against the bulkhead, make sure the marks for the holes are in the correct
position for your donor mechanism. Using these marks on the monocoque
drill two pilot holes for the wiper motor spigots Ø18mm clearance.
Remove the angled rubber mountings from the K Series Rover Metro
assembly and replace them with the wiper spigot spacers T0699. Before
fitting the motor to the monocoque, grind the corners of the arms under the
bulkhead slightly to prevent them catching on the monocoque. The whole
assembly can now be bolted under the dashboard using the standard K
Series Rover Metro washers and nuts. It may be necessary to bend the
bracket with the rubber bung on it to obtain a nice fit under the dashboard
against the bulkhead. If your electrics are fitted it is advisable to run the wiper
motor to make sure that it does not catch as it rotates against the glass fibre
of the monocoque. Should it catch in any place, relieve the glass fibre to get a
clearance. Take great care to only remove just enough glass fibre to keep the
strength of the bulkhead.
Standard Rover Metro K Series wiper arms are used with the larger blades
T0685 provided within the kit. It is possible to bend the standard Rover Metro
arms at their ends nearest the fitment to the wiper blade to obtain a better
sweep of the screen.
© GTM CARS LTD. 8.3
ELECTRONICS & WIRING
Wiring for K series Rover Metro………………….9.2
Wiring for Rover 25…………………………………9.2
Assembly for Rover 25…………………………….9.2
WIRING LOOM, INSTRUMENTS & FUSE BOX………………9.3
© GTM CARS LTD. 8.4
The Libra utilises the K Series Rover Metro or the Rover 100 wiring loom
instruments and fuse boxes. Auxiliary wiring looms are used at the front,
through the tunnel and at the back. The standard K Series Rover Metro
dashboard loom is retained. The colours used are those in the K Series
Rover Metro loom. The central auxiliary loom runs from under the dashboard
forward through the front bulkhead of the monocoque and through the tunnel
to the back of the car. Both the front and rear auxiliary looms unplug to
enable the front and rear panels to be removed completely with their own
wiring looms attached. The standard Rover Metro steering column/Rover 100
steering column and switchgear is retained on the Libra. No wires run through
the passenger compartment.
When utilising the GTM instrument pack the standard Rover Metro dashboard
loom is discarded and a new loom provided with the instrument pack replaces
it and plugs into the standard Rover Metro loom.
When using a modern K Series engine it will be necessary to fit a 5AS
immobiliser. This immobiliser requires a separate auxiliary loom which runs
from the rear of the car to the front of the car with the immobiliser positioned
under the dashboard for weather protection. When utilising the latest K Series
engine with MEMS 3 units it is necessary to use an auxiliary loom to
supplement the Rover 25 loom in the engine bay. This auxiliary loom plugs
into the standard GTM loom.
Wiring for Rover 25 Engines.
© GTM CARS LTD. 9.1
Unfortunately the Rover 25 engine bay-wiring loom does not include the relay
pack as on all other Rover cars. It is therefore necessary to produce an
additional harness with relays and fuses to supplement the original Rover 25
engine bay harness. This additional harness TO904 fits within the engine bay
alongside the original Rover 25 engine bay harness. The new harness
connects into the original Rover 25 engine bay harness and connects into the
5AS loom as provided by GTM. The MEMS 3 ECU and the 5AS unit have to
be matched for them to work. If the units do not come off the same car this
can be undertaken by GTM Cars Ltd. The rear oxygen sensor as used on the
Rover 25 is not used on the GTM.
Consult drawing No 27. The ECU, relays and fuses associated with the
engine mount onto the bulkhead immediately behind the passenger seat.
Connect the ECU to the Rover engine bay wiring loom. Connect the ECU to
the GTM auxiliary engine bay wiring loom. The connections to the GTM loom
and the Rover loom are all made just in front of the gearbox/engine mounting
inside the engine frame. Before screwing the ECU, fuse box and relay box to
the bulkhead, check that the wires will reach the appropriate connections.
Secure the ECU, relay box and fuse box to the rear of the bulkhead. Connect
the large diameter brown wire to the live side of the starter solenoid i.e. the
side to which the main red battery lead is connected.
Referring to the circuit information in the manual with regard to wiring
connections for the MEMS 3 engines, connect the wires together. It will be
necessary to terminate the wires on the Rover 25 loom after removing the
connectors. These terminals are supplied within the auxiliary wiring pack.
The manual under the heading Rover 25 connection details indicates which
connectors have to be removed and terminals fitted.
For example wire number one rev counter drive is black/white in the MEMS 3
loom and connects to the black/white in the GTM 5AS loom. Wire number
eleven ignition warning light is brown/yellow in the GTM 5AS loom and
connects to the brown/yellow in the Rover 25 engine bay loom. Following this
example connect the wires together down to number seventeen. The only
other wire that may cause confusion is wire six which is a large diameter
brown wire in the MEMS 3 loom and this has to be connected to the large
diameter wire in the standard GTM loom.
When everything else is completed and the engine runs satisfactorily it is best
to insulate all these connections with insulation tape. Then secure the loom
with tie wraps in appropriate places.
WIRING LOOM, INSRUMENTS AND FUSE BOX
The Libra utilises the K Series Rover Metro wiring loom instruments and fuse
boxes. Auxiliary wiring looms are used at the front through the tunnel and at
the back. The standard K Series dashboard loom is retained. The colour
codes used are those of the K Series Rover Metro. The rear auxiliary loom
© GTM CARS LTD. 9.2
uns from under the dashboard forward through the front bulkhead of the
monocoque and through the tunnel to the back of the car. Both the front and
rear auxiliary looms unplug to enable the front and rear panels to be removed
complete with their own lamp wiring looms. By using its own wiring loom at
the back and making connections under the dashboard the completed car is
very neatly wired.
The standard Rover Metro steering column switchgear is retained within the
Libra. No wires run through the passenger compartment.
Wiring loom and electrical component assembly
Consult drawing No 27. Lay your K Series Rover Metro wiring loom out on
the floor and identify the basic layout. The main body of the layout runs
across the car inside the dashboard. This part of the layout has the fuse box
attached to it and the plugs for the steering column switches and the
dashboard loom. The fuse box is on driver’s side of the car. Running forward
from this loom on either side of the car are two legs which, on the standard
car run forward to the lights on either side of the car. They can be identified
by a large grommet on either leg. This grommet is approximately Ø60mm.
The grommet is used where the wiring loom goes through the front bulkhead
of the car on the Rover Metro and is used in exactly the same manner on the
On the passenger side of the car just before the wiring loom goes through the
large grommet there is also a leg of the wiring loom which on the standard
Rover Metro runs down the passenger side of the car to the rear of the car.
This leg of the wiring loom has approximately 40 wires in it. This rear leg
leaves the wiring loom that goes across the dashboard at a junction and then
approximately 100mm from the junction spurs leave the wiring loom with black
plugs on them which on the standard Rover Metro are used for the electric
windows and central locking. A further 120mm along there is a purple and
white lead approximately 200mm long that has a single spade connection.
After this lead allow approximately 100mm and cut the wiring loom at this
point all the way through the 40 wires. The rear end of the wiring loom is not
used at all on the Libra.
As on the standard K Series Metro the legs of the front wiring looms run
through the bulkhead of the Libra through the standard grommets and down
towards the head lights on either side. A small auxiliary wiring loom is used
on the Libra to wire the head lights etc and then comes through a grommet on
the passenger side of the car in the radiator ducting to a plug to enable the
bonnet to be removed without having to undo all the head light wiring etc. The
main auxiliary loom on the Libra connects to the standard wiring loom on the
passenger side of the dashboard through the standard grommet on the
passenger side and then connects to the standard wiring loom at several
points before going through the tunnel to the rear of the car. At the rear of the
car the Libra wiring loom connects to all the auxiliary equipment and then
through to the back passenger side of the car where it is plugged into another
auxiliary wiring loom which runs to the lights at the rear of the car to enable
© GTM CARS LTD. 9.3
the rear panel of the car to be removed without the necessity of undoing all
the electrical wires to the lights.
Hole saw the two Ø60mm holes in the front bulkhead in the position indicated
on the drawing. These holes take the standard Rover Metro grommet. Clean
them up with production paper to obtain a good seal as any water running off
the screen will run directly over them. Cut the small hole adjacent to the fuse
box mounting as shown on the diagram. Hole saw the Ø45mm hole to the left
of the steering column as shown on the diagram. Drill two Ø4mm clearance
holes on the top flange of the dashboard in the position shown on the diagram
and indicated on the moulding by the two small depressions. Very carefully
centre drill the two holes on the front face of the dashboard which align up
with the two holes just previously drilled. This will enable a screwdriver to go
up through the front of the dashboard to fit the instrument pack. Open up
these holes to the shape indicated by the depression on the dashboard. Do
this work very carefully; it will be seen when completed.
Loosely lay the cable forms in the car in the position previously described to
make sure that everything roughly fits in the right position. Start under the
dashboard with the fuse box which comes from the standard Rover Metro and
fits from the underside of the dashboard and is located by two No 8 self
tapping screws. The main body of the wiring loom runs in front of the heater
and across to the passenger side. The wires for the switchgear on the
steering column run through the Ø45mm hole previously cut along with the
wires for the brake light switch and throttle off normal switch.
The instrument pack has its own auxiliary wiring loom which in turn connects
into the standard Rover Metro loom at a point adjacent to the fuse box where
there are two plugs one large black and one small with only two wires.
Another plug which is attached to the instrument pack wiring loom runs
through the small Ø25mm hole previously cut next to the fuse box and the
wires connect directly into the fuse box on the under side. The fuse box
should be mounted with the large red relay to the outside rear portion of the
car. Wires from the steering column also connect directly into the bottom of
the fuse box.
There will be many wires and connectors associated with facilities used on the
K Series Rover Metro that are not used on the Libra. For example the electric
windows, central locking etc. At this stage do not do anything with these extra
wires. Run the front legs of the wiring loom through the Ø60mm holes
previously made in the bulk head and lay the two legs down the inside face of
the radiator ducting mould.
Lay the large GTM Libra wiring loom on the floor and attach to it at either end
the auxiliary looms that are used for the bonnet and boot cable runs. The
bonnet cable run can easily be identified as it has the connectors on it to fit
into the headlight bulbs and the driving light bulbs. The rear cable run only
has wires out to attach to the rear lights. By connecting up these cable runs it
easily identifies the front and rear of the wiring loom. Halfway down the wiring
loom you will find the connectors which are used for the petrol tank sender,
© GTM CARS LTD. 9.4
petrol tank pump and handbrake. Disconnect the front and rear auxiliary
cable runs and position the main GTM Libra cable run through the tunnel out
under the front of the battery mounting mould. At the rear the cables run
above the petrol tank down the passenger leg of the engine frame with the
connector for the auxiliary wiring loom approximately 150mm from the end of
Working within the passenger side front wheel arch hole saw a Ø40mm hole
in the position shown on the drawing. This hole is to allow the bonnet
auxiliary wiring loom through into the radiator ducting mould. The connector
for the junction to the main Libra wiring harness is positioned just inside the
The Libra wiring loom comes out of the center of the battery mounting and up
the passenger side to the point where the bonnet moulding comes through the
radiator ducting and it plugs in at that point. The harness then splits, one half
goes inside of the passenger radiator ducting and in through the standard
grommet to a point inside the monocoque where it is joined to the previously
cut off standard K Series wiring loom. The leg that goes up into the
monocoque can easily be identified because it has 5 unterminated wires plus
a black wire with a 6mm ring connector. All these wires are fed through the
standard Rover large grommet. The other leg of the Libra cable harness runs
across the top of the radiator and down the other side of the radiator ducting
Now that the wiring harness is in its approximate position start connecting
them up from the dashboard. Connect up the standard K Series dashboard
wiring harness to the instrument pod and the switches on either side of the
instrument display. Connect up the two connectors that connect the
dashboard loom to the main K Series harness. Connect up the long white
connector on the dashboard harness to the bottom of the fuse block through
the hole previously made. Run the legs of the main wiring harness that
connect to the switchgear on the steering column through the previously made
hole and connect up to the switchgear. Connect up the leg of the steering
column switchgear to the underside of the fusebox, run the wire for the throttle
off normal switch if fitted and the brake light switch through the same hole as
the wires going to the steering column and connect up. It may be necessary
on certain models to extend the wires off the brake light switch (green and
green/purple) to get sufficient length to reach the switch on the pedal box.
Connect up all the white connectors on the main K Series loom under the
dashboard to the top face of the fusebox.
On the passenger side of the dashboard connect the five wires of the Libra
main wiring loom, cut off wires from the standard K Series rear wiring loom.
The colours follow through from the standard K Series wiring loom to the Libra
wiring loom. Unfortunately there are two green/purple wires in the K Series
wiring harness and it is necessary to join these two together before
connecting to the green/purple wire in the GTM harness. Similarly there are
two grey/black wires in the K Series harness and the wire required is the one
that connects through to handbrake warning light in the dashboard. Bus
© GTM CARS LTD. 9.5
through the wire to the handbrake warning light and connect it to the
grey/black wire in the GTM harness. The five wires can be connected using
the white connector provided in the kit. The remaining wires in the K Series
wiring harness should be capped off using the heat shrink insulating material
provided. This material is best shrunk into position using a hot air blower.
Attach the black earth ring connector on the GTM wiring harness to the black
earth ring connector on the K Series Rover wiring harness and insulate with
All the other wires and connectors on the K Series wiring harness are not
used and therefore should be tie wrapped back onto the harness in a neat
manner to prevent them shorting or rattling under the dashboard.
Working within the radiator ducting on the passenger side, connect up the
black heater blower unit connector from the K Series Rover Metro wiring
harness. Connect the large black connector just in front of the heater blower
unit to the mating connector on the Libra wiring harness. Further down the K
Series harness towards the front drivers side of the car is the main heavy duty
fuse block assembly. This assembly will already be attached to the K Series
harness. In the standard car the main power feed to the engine management
cable harness goes directly into the main fuse box at this point. If you
received your car parts from a salvage company it is more than likely that they
will have removed the engine wiring loom from the main fuse box by cutting
the brown wire at this point. If it has not been cut then cut it to separate the
engine management harness from the main K Series wiring harness and join
in to the brown lead coming from the new Libra wiring loom using the
connector provided within the kit.
Connect through the connector on the new Libra wiring loom to the connector
protruding through the radiator ducting that supplies the headlight harness. At
this point you will see that there is a main black earthing block on the K Series
harness and a 6mm earthing ring on the Libra loom. Loosely connect these
two wires together plus a black wire provided in the kit and connect back to
the battery earthing terminal.
Connect the orange/green and green connector on the Libra harness to the
thermostat on the passenger side of the radiator.
Connect the purple/black and black wires coming out of the Libra harness to
the horn. Connect the black and green/red leads from the Libra harness to
the black and green/red leads coming from the K Series harness.
Now moving to the top centre of the radiator connect through the black
connector with the three wires going into it from the GTM harness to the
mating connector on the K Series harness. At the same point connect
through the two white wires to the two white wires in the GTM harness and the
two black and white wires to the two black and white wires in the GTM
harness. These wires are for the coil on the 1400cc engines and are not used
on the 1600cc and 1800cc engines using the 5AS harness. It is however
© GTM CARS LTD. 9.6
important that the two white wires in the Metro harness are joined together
and the two black and white wires in the Metro harness are joined together. It
is not necessary to connect these wires to the GTM harness. Put the plug in
to the radiator fan on the K Series harness.
Starting where the K Series Rover Metro cable harness comes through the
bulkhead on the driver's side run the harness down along the side of the
radiator ducting to the front driver's side of the car. The first arm of the cable
harness with the black and black/white spade connector goes to the top of the
brake hydraulic reservoir. The other leg of this spur with the black connector
on it goes to the wiper motor which is positioned within the monocoque on the
Libra and hence has to go through the bulkhead adjacent to the main wiring
harness grommet and through to the plug on the wiper motor. A grommet is
provided for this purpose and an appropriate size hole needs to be made in
the front bulkhead. Here again it is extremely important to clean the hole
properly with production paper to prevent leaks through this grommet.
The next two red and black connectors plug into the pumps on the front of the
standard K Series washer bottle which is mounted to the top of the radiator
The next connector on the K Series harness is a black earth connector and
this should be joined to the end of the Libra harness that has come across the
top of the radiator to the black wire with a 6mm ring connector. Join loosely at
Connect the green/white and black spade connectors on the standard
harness through to the green/white and black connectors on the Libra
The next connector on the standard K series harness is the connector that
goes to the dim/dip unit. Connect this to the dim/dip unit and leave. Now
working towards the end of the K Series harness coming up the side of the
radiator there is a black connector which connects through to a black
connector on the Libra harness. Connect through the two spade connectors
from the standard harness to the Libra harness in the same vicinity.
All the wires are now connected and require neatening together. The
mounting of the horn main switch block and the dim/dip unit can be
undertaken once the cable harness has determined the position. Remember
that the mountings should miss the spare wheel when in position.
Follow through the wiring harness as it goes through the tunnel from the front
to the back of the car. Halfway down the wiring harness there are connectors
for the petrol gauge sender unit and fuel pump mounted in the tank. Also in
this position two wires come of the harness to go into the car for the
handbrake off warning light system.
The wiring harness comes over the top of the petrol tank and immediately as it
exits there are four black leads that are connected by an 8mm ring connector
© GTM CARS LTD. 9.7
to the same bolt on the gearbox that the main earth connector from the battery
There are two black and white leads and two white leads that connect to the
PEDAL BOX & GEAR CHANGE
Gear change assembly……………………………..10.2
HAND BRAKE LEVER CABLES & CALLIPERS……………...10.3
Assembly – Rover 220i or 420…………………….10.3
Assembly – MGF………………………………….…10.4
PEDAL BOX & MASTER CYLINDER…………………………..10.5
© GTM CARS LTD. 9.8
STEERING RACK & COLUMN………………………………….10.5
The Kunifor brake pipes pack T1100 are bendable by hand without any
special tooling. The longest pipe in the pack is run from the rear bulkhead
through to the master cylinder on the front end. Refer to drawing No 15 and
mark on the monocoque where the ‘T’ piece sits on the front and rear
bulkheads. The ‘T’ pieces can be found in fastener pack T1112 (). Drill a
Ø6mm hole for the ‘T’ piece and use fastener pack T1112 (C) to bolt the front
‘T’ piece with the bolt at the top and the rear ‘T’ piece with the bolt at the
bottom. Take two flexible brake brackets T1106 and position them as in
drawing No 15. Mark the pilot holes and drill to Ø6mm clearance. Bolt the
two brackets in to place using fastener pack T1112 ().
Take the front flexible brake pipes
T1102 and unscrew the nut off the
end. Slot the threaded end of the
flexible brake pipe from the outer side
of the bracket. Lock this in to place
with the nut. Bend one of the three
short solid brake lines to fit between
the ‘T’ piece and the bracket T1106. A
suggested way to bend the brake
pipes is shown in drawing No 15. Try
to bend the pipes at right angles to
make a neater job. Once the brake
pipe is bent, screw the other end in to the ‘T’ piece. Repeat on the other side
at the front end. When both brake pipes are screwed into the ‘T’ piece,
tighten the nuts to ensure there will be no leaking of brake fluid.
© GTM CARS LTD. 10.1
At the rear take the longest
brake pipe and screw it in to the
bottom thread of the ‘T’ piece.
Feed the pipe in to the tunnel
taking car to bend it as close to
the monocoque as you can.
Feed it through the tunnel
making sure it goes above the
gear change front support
T0404. At the front of the tunnel
it bends up to the master
cylinder. Take the third short
piece of solid brake pipe and
bend it as shown in drawing No 15. Drill Ø6mm holes for the remaining
flexible brake brackets T1106 and bolt them on using fastener pack T1112 ().
Once all the brackets are tight and each end of the brake pipes is screwed
together, p clips must be used to secure the brake pipes against the
monocoque. Start by securing the pipe through the tunnel. The p clips are
provided in fastener pack T1112 (H) and the nuts, bolts and washers are in
fastener pack T1112 (D). The brake pipe should run down the RHS of the
tunnel and have four p clips evenly spaced along the length of the tunnel.
Refer to drawing No 8 for the exact position in the tunnel. Take care to keep
the brake pipe away from the gear change so that it will not fowl. Mark the
positions of the four p clips and drill Ø4mm holes. Put a bolt and washer on
the fibre glass side of the monocoque and a washer and Nyloc nut on the gel
coat side of the tunnel.
On the front and rear bulkheads position p clips roughly where drawing No 15
suggests. Drill holes Ø3.5mm for the self tapping screws in fastener pack
T1112 (A). Double check all joins in the brake pipes are secure and tight.
Tighten all the p clips so that the pipes are secure to the monocoque.
A heat shield is necessary to
protect the brake fluid in the brake
pipes from getting too hot. The
heat shield provided T0693 is glued
to the monocoque using a contact
adhesive. There is an aperture in
the rear bulkhead to show where
the heat shield should roughly go.
© GTM CARS LTD. 10.2
The gear change on the GTM Libra is purpose designed for the mid engine
configuration. It runs from the gear change in the front of the car through the
tunnel under the petrol tank and engine to a pivot assembly attached to the
engine frame. It utilises certain parts from the standard K Series Rover Metro
gear change and therefore requires a K Series Rover Metro gear change in
exchange. The gate remains the same as a standard K Series Rover Metro.
Gear Change assembly.
Consult drawing No 18. Mark out the hole for the gear lever and drill the four
corners. With a jigsaw or by chain drilling, cut out the hole. Refer back to
drawing No 18 and mark the position of the three holes to hold the gear
change mounting bracket T0404. Pilot drill the three holes and open to Ø6mm
clearance. Use fastener pack T0403 (H) to secure the bracket. The gear
change assembly used on the Libra comes completely modified from GTM
Cars Ltd and it is only necessary to push the front pivot through the standard
K Series mounting at the front and attach the pivot bar at the back to the
engine frame. This pivot bar at the back utilises the standard K Series Rover
Metro bushes. Now attach the two link rods to the gearbox one of which has
been modified by GTM Cars Ltd.
By adjusting the length of these link rods it should be easy to obtain the
appropriate gate in the gear change.
Check that everything runs freely under the car and that the gear change is
not rubbing up or hitting against any of the pipe work through the tunnel.
HANDBRAKE LEVER CABLES AND CALLIPERS
The GTM Libra utilises the Rover 220i or 420 rear callipers or the MGF rear
callipers. When using the Rover 220i or 420 rear callipers, the handbrake
© GTM CARS LTD. 10.3
cables and handbrake lever are used off the same car. When using the MGF
rear callipers special cables are used plus the handbrake lever of the Rover
220i or 420. The callipers bolt to the standard Rover Metro front hub
assembly employed at the back of the lever. With the Rover 220i or 420 rear
callipers special adapter plates are provided in the kit to facilitate this. With
the MGF calliper these bolt directly to the hub without the adapter plate but
using 2 special eccentric bushes. The cables run from the callipers over the
petrol tank and into the driving compartment. The handbrake lever is
mounted to the tunnel, the outer cable mounting from the Rover 220i or 420 is
also utilised next to the lever. When using the Rover 220i or 420 callipers or
the MGF callipers, the rear disc utilised from the front disc of the Rover Metro
has to be reduced in thickness. This is done on an exchange basis by GTM
Handbrake lever cables and callipers assembly – Rover 220i or 420.
There are two drawings at the end of this manual relating to this paragraph,
No 13&14. The standard Rover 220/420 rear callipers are fitted to the
standard K Series Rover Metro front hub assemblies via an adapter plate
T1107. This is shown on the center drawing at the rear of this manual. The
adapter plate T1107 is attached to the hub via two Ø14mm 2mm pitch 20mm
long socket cap head screws. To accept the screws, the holes in the K Series
hubs that originally attached the K Series callipers have to be tapped out
appropriately. Fortunately the tapping size hole for the 14mm thread is the
hole already in the K Series hub. It is therefore only necessary to tap out the
holes in the callipers. Should you have difficulty in obtaining a suitable
tap one is available from GTM Cars LTD on a loan basis.
So that T1107 can fit flush against the rear face of the Rover Metro hub it is
necessary to fettle (grind or file) the face of the hub casting. Clear away all
metal that prevents T1107 fitting flush against the hub face. Using the two
Ø14 x 2 x 20mm long socket cap head screws provided in pack T1110 attach
the carrier T1107 to the hub.
The Rover 220/420 calliper is attached to the adapter plate T1107 via two
spacers T1108. It may be necessary to fettle the side face of the Rover Metro
hub slightly to enable the spacer to sit squarely on the adapter plate T1107.
By placing the Ø10mm bolt through the hole in T1107 and putting the spacer
T1108 on it, the area that has to be fettled away can be clearly seen.
On the Rover 220/420 callipers the bracket that holds the handbrake cable to
the calliper has to be removed before the calliper can be fitted to the adapter
plate T1107. The track control arm T0308 on the Libra has a location for the
outer cable of the standard Rover 220/420-handbrake cable.
The standard solid Rover K Series front disc has to be skimmed to 10mm
thickness; this is done by GTM Cars Ltd. on an exchange basis.
Once you are satisfied that everything fits together without interference and is
square and true assemble the caliper and adapter T1107 to the hub using the
bolts provided. We strongly recommend the use of lock tight or some
© GTM CARS LTD. 10.4
similar thread locking substance when finally locking up these bolts.
Now mount up the Rover 220/420handbrake
lever to the tunnel as
illustrated on the appropriate drawing
in the rear of this manual. Start by
marking out all the holes needed and
drill them all before anything is run
through the tunnel.
Attach the Rover 220/420 standard
handbrake lever to the top of the Libra
tunnel in the position shown on the
drawing using two Ø8mm set bolts
20mm long and on the inside of the tunnel T1110. Make sure that the
handbrake lever is central to the tunnel.
Attach T1105 handbrake cable mounting bracket to the top of the tunnel in the
position shown on the diagram using two Ø6 x 20mm long set bolts, washers
and Nyloc nuts. The Rover 220/420 standard outer cable bracket can now be
mounted to T1105 using two Ø8 x 10mm long set bolts, washers and spring
washers. It may be necessary on certain Rover 220/420 outer cable brackets
to remove a certain amount of the bracket that is not required.
The two holes can now be drilled in the tunnel of the monocoque to allow the
cables to run through over the petrol tank. By carefully elongating these holes
it is possible to fit the standard Rover 220/420 handbrake cable grommets
neatly into the top of the monocoque tunnel.
The cables run over the top of the petrol tank, over the top of the top
wishbones to the outer cable-mounting bracket on the rear steering arm
T0308/9, T0308 being drivers side. The cables are secured to the top of the
top wishbone T0300 using two 10mm P clips per side and No 10 self tapping
screws. The handbrake can now be adjusted in the normal manner and
should work satisfactorily.
Handbrake callipers MGF.
The MGF handbrake callipers are utilised at the rear of the GTM in exactly the
same way as the Rover 220i or 420 callipers. The callipers are attached to
the hub without the use of an adapter plate but with the use of two eccentric
bushes. These two eccentric bushes fit into enlarged holes that are used for
the existing callipers at the front of the K Series Rover Metro. The two holes
that hold the two front callipers on the Metro have to be enlarged to Ø17mm.
This drills out easily but should you not have a Ø17mm drill GTM will be happy
to drill them out for you. With the two eccentric bushes T1115 fitted into these
Ø17mm holes and positioned such as to give the largest spaces between the
two Ø10mm holes within the bushes the MGF callipers will bolt onto the Metro
hub without alteration. When using the MGF callipers special cables T0114a
must be used which are obtainable from GTM. The rest of the assembly is
similar to the previously described assembly for the Rover 220i or 420 rear
© GTM CARS LTD. 10.5
PEDAL BOX AND MASTER CYLINDER
The Libra uses the standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box assembly,
complete with master cylinder and vacuum assist servo. The assembly
mounts in exactly the same manner as used in the K Series Rover Metro.
Specially designed clutch and brake pedals are provided in the kit and mount
onto the pedal box assembly in the same manner as the K Series Rover
Pedal Box and Master Cylinder assembly
The standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box comes apart very simply and
should cause you little problem. If you do incur a problem, refer to drawing No
12&34. While everything is disassembled, any modifications should be done
for example fitting the hydraulic clutch. If the hydraulic clutch is to be fitted it
is much easier to machine the plate when it is separated from the rest of the
assembly. Use the plate to line up the indents in the monocoque to the
mounting holes in the plate. Mark any misalignments and remove the plate.
Drill the two holes that line up with the self captivating nuts to Ø8mm. The
three other holes need to be drilled to Ø6mm clearance. The bottom left hand
hole needs to be drilled to Ø5mm and a Ø6mm self tapper used because it
goes through into the thick fibre glass. Remove the brake and clutch pedals
and take out the plastic top hat section bearings. Replace these bearings in
the specially designed brake and clutch pedals obtained in the kit and reassemble
the pedal box in the same manner as it would be with the standard
pedals. When rebuilding the K Series Rover Metro pedal box do not use the
brake pedal return spring.
Once the pedal box is assembled, mount it to the monocoque. Push the
mounting bolts and washers through from the outside of the monocoque and
secure with washers and Nyloc nuts on the inside of the monocoque. The two
Ø8mm bolts use washers on the inside only and mount from the inside of the
The standard Rover K Series pedal rubbers fit straight onto the new brake and
clutch pedals. The brake and clutch pedal pads are also drilled to accept after
market brake and clutch pedal pads.
A support goes from the standard Rover pedal box to the underside of the
dashboard as shown in manual drawings.
The support TO616 bolts through an existing hole in the pedal box and to the
underside of the dashboard. The support is located with two Ø8mm set
screws 25mm long with Ø8mm washers and Nyloc nuts.
© GTM CARS LTD. 10.6
STEERING RACK AND COLUMN
The Libra uses the standard Metro steering column bolted directly to the
bottom of the structural dashboard. The steering column is spaced off the
bottom of the dashboard using two TO618 at the top and two TO617 at the
bottom. The bottom link between the two universal joints is lengthened on
exchange by GTM. Once lengthened, this link bolts directly to the steering
rack. The steering rack used by the Libra is a standard Metro L.H.D. steering
rack, which bolts directly to the monocoque through the horizontal front panel.
The steering rack is held off the monocoque by two 3mm spacers which allow
for any final adjustment. Spreader plates are used under the clamping bolts
inside the monocoque. In a similar manner to the Metro, two bolts and a
standard Metro clamp are used at one end and are held with a special U bolt
provided in the kit. The track rod ends used on the Libra are the standard
Metro track rod ends and not the GTA GTi track rod ends. The track rod ends
are fitted to the steering rack in the standard manner once the special steering
rack extenders have been fitted to the steering rack. These extenders are
screwed and lock bolted to the steering rack.
The throttle pedal used on the GTM Libra is specially designed for the Libra.
It mounts on the side of the standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box as
shown in the diagram.
Throttle Pedal Assembly
The throttle pedal T0704 mounts through an existing captive Ø8mm nut on the
side of the standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box. Using a standard Ø8 x
50mm long bolt, mount the throttle pedal to the K Series Rover Metro pedal
box with two standard washers either side the throttle pedal and lock off the
Ø8mm bolts on the inside of the pedal box to prevent it coming undone with a
standard Ø8mm nut. Make sure that the throttle pedal runs freely and grease
the bearing surfaces.
Mount the throttle cableT0701 and switch bracket T0703 to the standard K
Series pedal box as shown on the drawing using one Ø8 x 20mm long set bolt
and Ø8mm washer. This bolt bolts through into the capped nut already on the
pedal box assembly. The bracket mounts the 'throttle off' normal switch if you
are using an early 1400cc GTi engine. It also forms a stop for the throttle
pedal and mounts up the throttle cable. There are two holes for the throttle
cable to go through and choose the one that matches the movement on your
The throttle cable T 0701 runs under the driver’s side carpet from the throttle
pedal down the side of the sill and through the box section that supports the
front edge of the seat runners. The cable then goes across to the corner of
the floor where it meets the petrol tank moulding approximately 40mm from
the side of the tank towards the centre of the car. The cable then runs under
the engine up and across to the throttle body. It is extremely important that the
© GTM CARS LTD. 10.7
throttle runs freely and make sure that you have not got any tight bends or
restrictions to the cable. On the throttle there is a small hole to enable you to
fit a spring between it and the old throttle off normal switch bracket attached to
the standard K Series Rover Metro pedal box assembly. The standard Rover
spring is appropriate.
© GTM CARS LTD. 10.8
Exhaust system assembly……………………..11.2
© GTM CARS LTD. 11.1
The exhaust system on the Libra utilises the standard Rover Metro manifold.
After the manifold, the exhaust system is all purpose designed in stainless
steel. The exhaust system mounts directly to the engine gearbox assembly
and not to any other framework on the car. The exhaust system has a small
flexible section to take out the stresses generated by the expansion of the
stainless steel. The exhaust system is so designed to allow the standard K
Series Rover Metro catalyst to be fitted should the customer wish, or this can
be replaced by a special pipe of the same dimension as the catalyst. The
silencer itself is straight through and has a stainless steel heat shield around it
to prevent the boot on the Libra becoming warm.
Exhaust system assembly
Refer to drawing No 31. Mount the main exhaust silencer to the engine first
with the engine mounted in the car. It is possible to maneuver the exhaust
system through and below the main cross tube of the engine frame with care.
On the drivers side of the car mount the exhaust system mounting brackets to
the two Ø10mm tapped holes just to the right looking from the rear of the
dipstick. It may be necessary to slightly bend the dipstick out of the way of the
exhaust bracket. The exhaust is attached to the engine using two Ø10mm
socket cap head screws 15mm long and Ø10mm washers.
Fix the gearbox mounting bracket to the driver’s side of the exhaust system
using the three Ø8 x 10mm long set bolts and washers. By holding the
exhaust system horizontal and square to the car it should be clear which two
gearbox bolts have to be removed to bolt the exhaust system to the gearbox
on the passenger side of the car. The exhaust system can now be bolted up
firmly on both passenger and drivers side of the car and should be horizontal
and true to the car.
Mount the stainless steel pipe with the flexible portion in it to the standard K
Series Rover Metro manifold using the gasket provided T1202 and some
exhaust paste. The standard K Series Rover Metro catalyst can now be fitted
between the two stainless steel plates of the exhaust system or alternatively
the stainless steel pipe provided in the kit. Use one of the gaskets T1202
provided on either side of the stainless steel plate at both ends and attach at
the driver’s side using Ø10 x 13mm long set bolts, nuts and washers and
paste. Now attach the ‘U’ section stainless steel between the end of the
catalyst pipe and the silencer itself using gaskets and paste. The new pipe
attaches to the silencer using the same Ø10 x 30mm long set bolts. Tighten
all bolts securely and when the engine is running check for any leaks.
© GTM CARS LTD. 11.2
SETTING UP THE CAR FOR THE ROAD
The steering rack………………………………………………….12.3
On the road…………………………………………………………12.4
© GTM CARS LTD. 12.1
SETTING UP THE CAR FOR THE ROAD
The front suspension of the GTM Libra utilises two unequal length wishbones
on either side. These wishbones are attached to the monocoque through
mounting brackets with shims. The camber angle of the front wheels can
therefore be adjusted to the required angle. A small amount of castor angle
adjustment is possible by fitting different size shims to the front or rear of any
wishbones. The front upside down shock absorbers have adjustable spring
seats for ride height and adjustable damping settings. Different spring rates
can be obtained from the factory.
The rear suspension uses two trailing wishbones at either side. Refer to
drawing No 25. These wishbones have adjustable ends and therefore the
camber angle can be adjusted. The coil over shock absorber unit has
adjustable spring seat and adjustable damper settings.
By carefully following the instructions below the amateur builder should be
capable of setting the car to the standard setting advised by the factory.
The car suspension adjustment can not be undertaken until the car is fully
built and all the weight associated with the build is on the suspension.
The track on the front and the rear of the car is the same and therefore by
using the front suspension as a guide and a suitable straight edge along the
side of the car it is possible to set the suspension approximately in the right
position. At this stage set the rear camber angle at 0 degrees i.e. with the
wheel vertical to the ground.
At this stage the sides of the sill can be used as a good guide as to the
position of the rear wheels side to side.
Make yourself a ride height gauge by cutting a piece of wood or other suitable
material to a size 5″ in one direction and 5 ½ ″ in the other direction. The 5″
represents the ride height under the front and rear parts of the sill when the
car is fully loaded with passenger and driver and the 5 ½ ″ represents the
height under the same position without the driver and passenger. All settings
can be made to the suspension geometry at the 5 ½ ″ ride height.
Adjust the adjustable shock absorbers to the minimum setting and adjust the
adjustable spring height on the shock absorber to give you the 5 ½ ″ required at
the front and rear corners of either side sills.
The car should now be capable of being pushed around to enable you to find
a suitable flat area on which to adjust the suspension more accurately. The
area you choose must be as flat as you can possibly find.
With the car on the most level piece of ground you can find check the heights
of the two front wheels relative to each other with a spirit level and a straight
bar placed on the ground between the two. It is possible to pack up one side
of the car relative to the other using newspaper or magazines to get two
wheels exactly level to each other. The same can be repeated at the back of
the car to get the two rear wheels exactly level with each other. The relative
positions of the back wheels relative to the front are not particularly important
and therefore need not be adjusted.
© GTM CARS LTD. 12.2
With the car level and in its final position recheck the ride heights to 5 ½ ″
taking into account any packing materials you may have used on the wheels.
The Steering Rack
Start at the front of the car. Before any adjustment can be made to the tow-in
at the front of the car it is necessary to determine the central position in the
steering rack. Moving the steering wheel to one extreme, measure the
amount of turn to the other extreme, halving the movement and determining
the central position can do this. Once these central positions have been
determined mark the top of the steering wheel with some masking tape and
check that the movement left and right is the same. Once you are sure you
have the central position it is a good idea to put the steering wheel itself with
its spokes in the central position so that when you drive the car it can be
clearly seen whether it is steering correctly.
Using a straight bar that will run from the front of the front wheel to the back of
the rear wheel, hold the bar halfway up the wheels and adjust the tow-in on
the wheel to give approximately a tow-in on either side of 2mm. On certain
Metro steering racks you may find it necessary to remove a small proportion
of the threaded end of the steering link to enable the correct adjustment to be
obtained. This can be done using a suitable hacksaw and file. Repeat for the
other side of the car.
The adjustment of the camber angles for the front wheels is both covered as it
has been found that this angle is pretty near correct straight from the factory.
The wheels at the front should be vertical and as long as your car does not
deviate from this measurement unduly our suggestions that you leave it at
present and tackle any changes at a later date. Methods of making
adjustment to the camber angle at the front are detailed at the end of this
Moving to the back of the car the set up is more complex. Camber angle and
tow in are both adjustable as well as the track that the car runs at.
The car runs with a rear camber angle of minus 1 ½ -2 degrees. This means
that the top of the tyre leans in towards the car by 1 ½ - 2 degrees. Set the
camber angles to be around this figure by adjusting the top wishbone
adjusting nuts on the outside face of the wishbone. Set the tow in to be
square with the front wheels i.e. neither towed in nor towed out.
Referring to the diagram and looking from the back of the car set the
dimension five 550mm on the driver's side of the car from the face of the
casting where the drive shaft protrudes to the centre nearest bolt on the
bottom wishbone. To obtain this adjustment it is necessary to adjust only the
bottom wishbone with the two locking nuts on the outside ball joint and then
re-adjust the top wishbone to obtain the correct camber angle. Working
similarly on the passenger side adjust the distance from the face of the
casting where the passenger side drive shaft protrudes to the centre of the
first bolt on the bottom wishbone to 365mm. Now re-adjust the top passenger
side wishbone to obtain the correct camber angle.
It is difficult to measure exactly these two dimensions but try to get them as
close as you can. An accuracy of plus or minus 2mm will be satisfactory, as
any slight error in the track will not in any way adversely affect the handling of
© GTM CARS LTD. 12.3
the car. Once you have set these bottom wishbones and locked up the lock
nuts it should not be necessary to readjust them again.
Whilst the car is situated on a level ground it is advisable to repeat the whole
of the setting up procedure again making sure that you are satisfied that
everything is correct. Once satisfied that everything is correct adjust the rear
tow-in to be between 3 and 4mm at the wheel rim. This can be only be done
by relating the back wheels to the front wheels as the wheels must be aligned
to the car. A convenient method is to place a straight edge along the wheels
between the front and rear and then measure the distance.
The removal or addition of shims between the wishbone mounting brackets
and the monocoque can obtain adjustment of the front camber angles.
Always add the same amount of shims to the front and rear mounts of any
one wishbone. Try to minimise the amount of changes you make by reducing
the shims on the top wishbone and increasing the shims on the bottom
wishbone for instance rather than just increasing the shims on the bottom
wishbone. Any changes made here of course will necessitate the rear
adjustment of the tow-in of the front wheels.
On the road
Your car is now ready to be driven but before doing so please recheck all the
safety items i.e. brakes, steering, suspension etc to make sure that you are
absolutely sure everything is satisfactory.
Drive the car a short distance very carefully and then return and recheck all
safety items. Check that the water level has remained constant and that there
are no leaks from any fluids.
Set the front and rear shock absorbers to 10 clicks away from the minimum
setting as a start.
Put in rear view mirror at a suitable height. Locate GTM badges and place the
large GTM badges on the front and rear panels of the car. Place the small
GTM badges on the four wheels. Fit any accessories i.e. gear knob or stereo.
© GTM CARS LTD. 12.4
NOTES, SUPPLEMENTS AND TEMPLATES
Necessary supplements and Templates
© GTM CARS LTD. 13.1
© GTM CARS LTD. 13.2
© GTM CARS LTD. 13.3
© GTM CARS LTD. 13.4
CABLE GEAR CHANGE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
The process to modify the MGF cable gear change assembly to fit into the GTM is as
Important: Do not fit the cables before fitting the fuel tank!
Remove the gear lever gimbal from the MGF bracket assembly and then fit this into
the bracket T2099 supplied from GTM using the fixings provided. Remove the
counter weight completely as close to pivot as possible ( The pivot bolt head may
need grinding slightly if it impedes movement in T2099 ). Drill a 4mm or 5mm hole
in fore/aft moving plate of the MGF part approx ½ way between the spring holding
legs on T2099. Use an M4 or M5 nut/bolt in this hole to provide the centre fixing of
the two springs T2100 and then connect each spring to each leg on T2099. The
springs provide the return for the gear lever to centre/neutral position. Drill a 70mm
diameter hole, 610mm forward from datum (see location drawing supplied). The
gearlever should be positioned in the centre of this hole and the fixing bolts to retain it
in position should be 35mm from the top face of the tunnel. (Note: Use the bracket as
a jig to mark the hole positions at 35mm from the top face )
Next remove the ball joint from the short cable at the gear box end and fit extender
rod T2097 and then re-fit the ball joint.
The long cable attaches to the gear lever end on the ball which is next to the springs
and the short cable to the other ball.
After the petrol tank has been fitted pass both cables under the tank (Note: Secure
them to the water pipes with tie wraps). The long cable goes over the gear box and the
short cable goes under. Fit the cables to the gear box bracket T2098 before fitting the
bracket to gearbox.
Finally clamp both the cables to the gear lever bracket T2099 using bracket T2096
and using 2off MG Rover UYC 10006 clips.
NEW SUSPENSION (Issued 10/03/05)
Mount outside bracket T0325A using the 8 x ‘indents’ in the monocoque or using the
pre-drilled holes from the previous bracket installation.
*Note* Do not mount inside bracket T0324A until following further instructions.
Assemble wishbones to both mounting brackets. In assembled state, offer up inside
bracket T0324A to monocoque and mark and drill 8 x holes to suit. Ensure bracket is
mounted at the same height as the previous installation or at the same height as the
‘indents’ on the monocoque. Please see Fig 1.
*Note* Do not use existing indents or previous holes on the ‘inside’ bracket mounting
Proceed with the rest of the installation as per manual.
Do not use MGF handed bottom swivel joints on the new suspension set-up with 17
inch alloy wheels!!
These MGF handed bottom swivel joints are only suitable with 16 inch alloy wheels
and are not provided as part of the new suspension set-up. However, these can be
purchased separately if required.
New holes to be drilled
for Inside Bracket