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December 2011 - Filipino-American Community of South Puget Sound

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14 Lifestyle-Travel<br />

If a foreigner asks you to take her around Manila for a day, where would you<br />

bring her? I found myself in this situation a few weeks ago, and it is difficult.<br />

As my friend who works at an international travel agency says, Manila has the<br />

lowest number <strong>of</strong> tourists among Asian countries, and at that moment I understood<br />

why: it’s probably not very clean compared to the others, and the remarkable<br />

tourist spots are in the provinces. Thankfully, there is the trusty old Intramuros,<br />

which I rediscovered that day.<br />

Taking the MRT and LRT to the Central station, we hailed a cab to the Walled<br />

City, which is home to many buildings whose designs are inspired by the Spanish<br />

tradition. We walked to Fort Santiago, which was landscaped superbly. At the center<br />

is a huge fountain, surrounded by rows and rows <strong>of</strong> well-trimmed plants. There<br />

are steel benches all around, and classical music played from a huge speaker, allowing<br />

for a peaceful leisurely walk, although one can opt to ride the horse-drawn<br />

carriage called kalesa.<br />

Scattered all over are sculptures, replicas <strong>of</strong> cannons, the guards in the Guardia<br />

Civil attire, and little kids running away from their parents. Yes, it is a perfect place<br />

for family picnics, with a clean turf for playing frisbee, or simply lazing away on a<br />

blanket. Some also fly kites, or do photo shoots. Fort Santiago, in fact, is a suki for<br />

couples in need <strong>of</strong> pre-nuptial photos, made to look vintage-like, with the backdrop<br />

<strong>of</strong> the bricks and stone walls.<br />

There is also a huge pond, where there grows huge water lilies with bright<br />

flowers. A short walk would take one to the dungeons, those dark spaces that are<br />

By Vince Marin<br />

Little known fact: November<br />

is urban poor month in the<br />

Philippines. In honor <strong>of</strong> the second<br />

biggest <strong>Filipino</strong> sector, next<br />

only to the rural poor (ha!), let us<br />

take a moment to view this group<br />

through the lens <strong>of</strong> a known advocate<br />

<strong>of</strong> the poor during his<br />

time, Dr. Jose Rizal.<br />

The urban poor is one <strong>of</strong> the<br />

least understood sectors <strong>of</strong> Philippine<br />

society. Unlike, say, workers<br />

or farmers, the urban poor is<br />

not clustered based on economic<br />

activity, hence no easily defined<br />

economic interest. The most common<br />

notion identifies the sector<br />

with the slums and squatter settlements<br />

in which most <strong>of</strong> them live,<br />

which bears all the degradations<br />

<strong>of</strong> poverty in plainest view.<br />

For this, the urban poor suffers<br />

some <strong>of</strong> the harshest <strong>of</strong> stereotypes,<br />

which is aggravated by<br />

their proximity to a judging media<br />

and middle class. In the ongoing<br />

Reproductive Health Bill debate,<br />

for instance, much <strong>of</strong> the rhetoric<br />

behind the need for population<br />

control is undoubtedly driven by<br />

the sight <strong>of</strong> tightly-packed slums,<br />

filled with people who allegedly<br />

"multiply like rabbits". The city's<br />

waterways are clogged because <strong>of</strong><br />

the squatters who are too "hardheaded"<br />

to move. An upper class<br />

pr<strong>of</strong>essional, perhaps aboard his<br />

car or a taxi cab, will pass by a<br />

slum area and notice shirtless<br />

men milling about a store front,<br />

and conclude that these people<br />

are poor because they are lazy and<br />

don't know any better.<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2011</strong><br />

http://pinoyreporter.com<br />

also the stuff for European historical romances. There is also a viewing ‘deck’<br />

where one can see Manila – with its unremarkable buildings, smog and the<br />

murky river, at least during the day. At night, though, it becomes a wonderful<br />

sight with reflections <strong>of</strong> lights from the establishments dancing with the<br />

river’s gentle rhythms.<br />

And <strong>of</strong> course, the thick walls designed to protect the city from rebellion,<br />

are a sight in themselves. This is especially true for the part that resembles a<br />

cathedral’s façade, where the crowd is led to the museum for Philippine National<br />

Hero Dr. Jose P. Rizal.<br />

Fort Santiago also draws people because <strong>of</strong> this exhibit that pays tribute to<br />

his heroism, with his statue, old letters to his sisters, poems, clothing and photos<br />

on display. His final work, Mi Ultimo Adios, is translated to <strong>Filipino</strong>, English,<br />

French, Chinese and other major languages. There is also a reconstructed<br />

version <strong>of</strong> his cell when he was incarcerated by the Spanish for treason.<br />

To those who would like to take home Philippine handicrafts, vendors<br />

have in tow fans and hats, and there are also stalls that <strong>of</strong>fer exquisite accessories<br />

and home finery. Finally, hungry stomachs can come to fine dining<br />

restaurants in the area, or to those looking for cheaper options, there’s always<br />

Binondo’s Sun Wah or Los Ambos Mundos.<br />

In my case, we ended up appreciating the interiors (and exteriors, too),<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Manila Cathedral, then heading to a mall for dinner. Nonetheless, my<br />

foreigner friend and I had a great time. �<br />

PuertO PrINceSA uNderGrOuNd<br />

rIver: New wONder Of NAture<br />

rizal and the urban Poor<br />

Once upon a time, Jose Rizal<br />

endeavored to defend a people<br />

who were likewise typecast as lazy<br />

and ignorant by a judging upper<br />

class. The result became<br />

one <strong>of</strong> Rizal's<br />

most important<br />

essays, The Indolence<br />

<strong>of</strong> the <strong>Filipino</strong>s.<br />

Credit Rizal's<br />

prescience, and the<br />

still-dire economic<br />

realities <strong>of</strong> today,<br />

that a<br />

Rizal argued<br />

that, in spite <strong>of</strong> an<br />

active and industrious<br />

tradition, the <strong>Filipino</strong>s' productive<br />

capacity was destroyed<br />

because the Spaniards forced<br />

them into other pursuits that<br />

served the colonial interest. Today,<br />

this translates to the interests<br />

<strong>of</strong> the wealthy, <strong>of</strong> big business and<br />

foreign capital.<br />

The landowning class in the<br />

Philippines has long resisted<br />

agrarian reform and effected<br />

widespread conversion <strong>of</strong> agricultural<br />

lands, which has deprived<br />

the peasantry from 'cultivating<br />

their fertile plains' and driven significant<br />

rural to urban migration.<br />

This, incidentally, has been considered<br />

to be at the 'heart' <strong>of</strong> the<br />

problem <strong>of</strong> urban congestion and<br />

poverty. The rapid urbanization<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Philippines, especially in<br />

the 1980s when the urban population<br />

exploded at more than<br />

5% annually, has largely created<br />

the urban problem to what it is<br />

today.<br />

Independent think-tank<br />

IBON Foundation argues that<br />

the government's continued<br />

adherence to free-market policies,<br />

which indicates its "bias<br />

for big pr<strong>of</strong>it-seeking players<br />

and foreign investors", has<br />

eroded domestic industry and agriculture<br />

and brought the number<br />

<strong>of</strong> the unemployed and in poor<br />

quality work to record highs. Interestingly,<br />

Rizal made a similar<br />

observation <strong>of</strong> the "abandonment<br />

<strong>of</strong> industry and agriculture" by<br />

the <strong>Filipino</strong>s because <strong>of</strong> Spanish<br />

enforcement <strong>of</strong> its colonial designs.<br />

Rizal also pointed out: "The<br />

sordid return the native gets from<br />

his work has the effect <strong>of</strong> discouraging<br />

him... the native, whom<br />

[the Spaniards] pretend to regard<br />

as an imbecile, is not so much so<br />

that he does not understand that<br />

it is ridiculous to work himself to<br />

death to become worse <strong>of</strong>f."<br />

The same might be said <strong>of</strong><br />

the urban poor <strong>of</strong> today. Wage<br />

rates have fallen far short <strong>of</strong> the<br />

government-estimated 'family<br />

living wage' needed to sustain decent<br />

living standards; in 2010, the<br />

NCR minimum wage <strong>of</strong> P404 is<br />

less than half <strong>of</strong> the family living<br />

wage (P957). The underemployed<br />

and the informally-employed,<br />

which are the majority <strong>of</strong> the<br />

poor, are earning even less.<br />

Finally, Rizal believed that<br />

the primary factor that "fostered<br />

and sustained" indolence was<br />

government. He spoke <strong>of</strong> government<br />

corruption, <strong>of</strong> "administrative<br />

slackness and confusion in a<br />

country where the <strong>of</strong>ficials work<br />

scarcely two hours a day"; <strong>of</strong> "the<br />

governor… devoted almost wholly<br />

to trade; in his hands the high<br />

and noble functions he performs<br />

are nothing more than instruments<br />

<strong>of</strong> gain."<br />

It need not be said how true<br />

these words still ring today. If Rizal<br />

was alive, he would take one look at<br />

the country’s leaders and understand<br />

completely about the slums. �

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