Learning to shoot fencing where you are incontrol of <strong>the</strong> camera means managing <strong>the</strong>sethree factors – shutter speed, aperture, andISO – and knowing when one should be higherand ano<strong>the</strong>r should be lower. If you’re shootinga saber match with reasonably good light, forexample, you might be set at ISO 3200, 1/800shutter speed, and f/3.5.Your Camera and Lens Matter.Buy <strong>the</strong> best-quality digital SLR (meaning mostlikely Canon or Nikon) you can afford, built <strong>the</strong>most recently, so that it has <strong>the</strong> best-qualityand highest-ISO image sensor and fastestframe-per-second rate. Then buy <strong>the</strong> bestquality“fast” lens you can afford that’s suitablefor how far you’ll be from <strong>the</strong> fencers. If you’restanding just beside <strong>the</strong> piste, you don’t needa telephoto lens (e.g., 70-200mm) but ra<strong>the</strong>rsomething in <strong>the</strong> 24-70mm range. A “fast” lensmeans a lens where <strong>the</strong> aperture remains <strong>the</strong>same at all focal lengths—meaning if you zoomin, less light enters <strong>the</strong> camera and your shotswill be underexposed. A fast lens will have adesignation on <strong>the</strong> outside of it like “f/2.8”or f/3.5” as opposed to a slower lens that willshow a range, such as “f/3.5-f/5.6” (which isless desirable, but also less expensive).Focus, Focus, Focus.The ability to focus on a subject gets toughwhen <strong>the</strong>y’re moving across a piste. Higherendcameras have <strong>the</strong> ability to track a subjectat very high speed, but that’s not alwayspossible depending on your camera gear.Plus, pro photographers “cheat” by changing<strong>the</strong>ir camera settings to what’s called “backfocusing” – meaning changing <strong>the</strong> button youuse to snap <strong>the</strong> shot. This allows <strong>the</strong>m to usea semi-automatic focus and keep it locked-in,instead of refocusing each time <strong>the</strong>y take aphoto. To optimize your ability to get imagesin-focus, follow <strong>the</strong>se tips:Position yourself about 30 to 45 degreesfrom <strong>the</strong> center line of <strong>the</strong> piste, to <strong>the</strong> leftor right of <strong>the</strong> referee and a bit behind him.If you’re following a specific fencer, youshould be on <strong>the</strong> opposing side from where<strong>the</strong>y are fencing. If <strong>the</strong>y are left-handed,you may want to be on <strong>the</strong>ir weapon side,if possible, as you’ll get more of <strong>the</strong> bladein <strong>the</strong> shot and, consequently, get a more“complete” shot of a touch when it occurs.If you are in this 30-45 position, you have<strong>the</strong> optimal amount of <strong>the</strong> visual field of<strong>the</strong> piste in focus, and you will not need toadjust your focus as much as if you werefar<strong>the</strong>r to one side.We Don’t Need No Stinkin’ WhiteBalanceYour dSLR will have a way to adjust <strong>the</strong>white balance to a specific setting or colortemperature (measured in degrees Kelvin)or to be set automatically. Most sports hallshave those awful sodium-vapor lights or,even worse, fluorescent lighting. Some newvenues are using LED lights, which are muchbetter. The former type of lighting causesmillisecond variations in light, meaning <strong>the</strong>color temperature is changing rapidly. As aresult, whe<strong>the</strong>r you’re shooting on a fixed colortemperature or on automatic, ei<strong>the</strong>r way it’sanybody’s guess what <strong>the</strong> color temperature isgoing to be from moment-to-moment. If yourcamera shoots 10 frames a second, you mightget 10 different shades of white – cream, blue,white, yellow, etc. – in one second of shooting.As a result, I don’t recommend even worryingabout this setting, and for anything that lookstruly out-of-whack, you can fix it later whenyou’re editing.Don’t Be Afraid to Shoot Tight.While it’s good to get all of <strong>the</strong> fencing actionin one image, sometimes you want to givesome dramatic effect, and shooting “tight”helps this. Try and get close-ups of faces,hands on grips, blade interaction, and <strong>the</strong>like—but don’t do only those. Experiment withshooting on a random spot where you thinkfencers will pass by and hold a tight shot on it– <strong>the</strong>n wait and see if <strong>the</strong>y pass through yourspot and shoot!Tell a Story.I’m primarily a photography documentarian,meaning I spend each day documenting <strong>the</strong>entire event. Even if it’s just one fencer, try totell a story with your shots – for example, from<strong>the</strong> salute, to <strong>the</strong> first engagement, to <strong>the</strong>argument with <strong>the</strong> referee, to <strong>the</strong> frustrationof falling behind, to <strong>the</strong> victory of winning, and<strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> celebration and finally <strong>the</strong> medals.This can be done in a sequence of five to tenphotos, which tell a quick visual tale of whathappened.Use your camera’s ability to change where<strong>the</strong> focal point is located. The default oncameras is to focus on <strong>the</strong> center of <strong>the</strong>viewfinder; however, if you focus <strong>the</strong>rewhile aiming at two fencers, you’ll likelybe focusing on <strong>the</strong> audience on <strong>the</strong> farside and not <strong>the</strong> athletes. Instead, learnhow to adjust your camera’s focal settingsto focus on <strong>the</strong> fencer to <strong>the</strong> oppositeside from where you are shooting. Focuson something more geometric, like <strong>the</strong>weapon or <strong>the</strong> mask, as it will be easier foryour camera to “catch” <strong>the</strong> subject. While Iemphasize shooting using manual exposuresettings, I do not suggest shooting usingmanual focus—it’s nearly impossible to keepfocusing manually on moving fencers.Focus on something… like <strong>the</strong> weapon or <strong>the</strong> mask, as it will be easier for your camera to “catch” <strong>the</strong>subject. (Pozdniakov (RUS) v Montano (ITA)-Bronze-Beijing)22 THE SWORD JULY <strong>2015</strong>
Try and get close-ups of faces.Don’t Use a Flash.If you’re on <strong>the</strong> field of play or beside <strong>the</strong> piste,you aren’t allowed to use a flash in any venue(do you really want that angry Russian coachblaming you for his fencer missing that finaltouch?). If you’re in <strong>the</strong> tribunes, your flashhas no effect. All those little twinkling flashesthat look so nice in stadiums or big venues?They’re only serving to illuminate <strong>the</strong> gent’shead in front of <strong>the</strong> shooter. Light falls-off soquickly that flashes are really only effective atvery close range, so save <strong>the</strong>m for <strong>the</strong> medalceremony.Hold Your Camera Correctly.You hold a dSLR still camera differently thana video camera. You use your right hand tocontrol <strong>the</strong> shutter release and adjust o<strong>the</strong>rexposure functions. Your left hand cups <strong>the</strong>lens underneath, with your thumb to <strong>the</strong> left.This is <strong>the</strong> way it was designed to be held,and fur<strong>the</strong>r stabilizes your camera so youcan get images that are more in-focus. If <strong>the</strong>light is really low, and if your camera is olderand doesn’t have <strong>the</strong> ISO capabilities of <strong>the</strong>newer ones, consider using a monopod to helpstabilize your shots.Be Creative with Your Angles.When I began shooting fencing, I tried toshoot what no one had before. One of <strong>the</strong>sefirst shots involved climbing up into a catwalkat a grand prix in Algiers, Algeria and shootingdown on <strong>the</strong> top of <strong>the</strong> fencers (a littleharrowing in an African venue with nothingmore than some rebar holding me up). Findinteresting angles for shooting your fencingsubject can produce some very rewardingimages. Stand at <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> piste for a fewshots, hold your camera high in <strong>the</strong> air whilezoomed to <strong>the</strong> most wide setting, lie down on<strong>the</strong> ground, and in general look for innovativeways in which you can view <strong>the</strong> same-oldsport. This will help round-out your fencingTell a story. (Flessel L (FRA) v Shutova L (RUS)-prelim-2008 Beijing World Champs)“story” and inevitably find some interesting andfun shots.Post-Production.The best photos are created at <strong>the</strong> moment<strong>the</strong>y’re shot, not on <strong>the</strong> computer. That said,working with your images after you take <strong>the</strong>mis an important step and can be fun but alsotime-consuming. Choosing photos is a toughjob, and deciding if <strong>the</strong>y need some touch-upsuch as cropping or level adjustment is animportant part of finalizing your story. Usingapplications such as Lightroom, ACDSee Pro,and Photo Mechanic can do a lot to optimizeimages, fix minor problems, batch-processlarge numbers of images, manipulate imagesizes to ready <strong>the</strong>m for print or screen, andgenerally get your images set for publicviewing.This is a very involved topic, however, and bestsuited for a future article…Be creative with your angles. (BeijingOlympicGames)JULY <strong>2015</strong> THE SWORD 23