THE CHEF’S TABLEPretty as a PeachChef Mark Alan’s got some peachy advice abouta favorite hot weather fruit.If you read my articles you probablyhave noticed I enjoy a good foodsaying. Well, peaches are secondonly to apples in sayings and you canlearn a lot about something if youtrace back the sayings associated withit. For example “pretty as a peach”sounds like something that shouldhave its origins in the AntebellumSouth. It is a saying which has beenused to describe a pretty girl andwas, in fact, a common adage in thesouth. Originally, though, it was usedto describe a bride in ancient China!This makes perfect sense, as not onlydoes the saying date back to ancientChina, so do peaches. Peaches wereknown to be cultivated in China asfar back as the tenth century B.C.Peaches were and are still highlypraised in Asian cultures. It remainsthe most sacred plant in the Taoistreligion and is still customarily servedat Chinese birthday celebrations tosymbolize longevity.Persians brought peaches fromChina to the Romans. Its Latin nameis persicum malum, or Persian apple.During the middle ages it becameknown as “peche,” leading to its currentname. It was brought to America bySpanish explorers in the 16th centuryand to England and France in the17th century. American Indian tribesare credited for spreading peachesaround this country, planting themas they migrated. Thomas Jeffersonhad peach trees at Monticello, butthey were not commercially grownuntil the 19th century. Peaches growbest in warmer climates but are nowgrown throughout most of U.S. It isthe state fruit of Georgia. Peaches arealso major commercial export cropsin China, Italy and Greece.“That’s Just Peachy” - or is it?Peaches are a member of the rosefamily and are cousins to almonds,plums, apricots and cherries.Nectarines are a variety of small,fuzzless peaches. White peaches are aFrench variety, actually light yellow incolor, and desired for their sweetness.All peach varieties can be classifiedby how firmly their flesh attaches tothe pit. Clingstones are those whichstubbornly cling to the stone. In the18 July, <strong>20</strong>08U.S. they are the first to ripen, in Maythrough August, and are very juicyand sweet. They are seldom found ingrocery stores, as they are the preferredpeach for commercial jellies, jams,baking and canning. With freestonepeaches, the pits are easily removedfrom the flesh. Harvest is late Maythrough October. They tend to belarger than clingstones and a bit lessjuicy and sweet. Nonetheless, theseare great for eating fresh, canning orfor baking. These are the varieties youwill find at the grocery store. A third,smaller category is semi-freestone,which is a hybrid of the other two.They are good for eating fresh,canning and baking.“Eat a Peach” - but first youneed to select one:When selecting peaches, choosefragrant fruits that are unblemishedand not overly firm. Greenish coloredpeaches were picked too early. Oncepicked, peaches do not ripen anyfurther. They do, however, becomeincreasingly softer, but the sugarproduction ceases. Peaches are highlyperishable, so buy what you planon using. To further soften peaches,place them in a closed paper bag ina cool spot and check occasionally, asa peach can soften in12 to 24 hours.You can hold peaches for a few dayslonger by refrigerating them. Theyneed humidity, so place them in aclosed plastic bag.To remove the peach pit, slicelengthwise 360 degrees around thepeach down to the pit. Twist eachhalf simultaneously in oppositedirections. Freestone peaches willseparate easily. Peach skins canbecome slightly bitter when cooked.Peeling them is relatively easy if youblanch them in boiling water for aminute then submerge them in coldwater for a minute or two. Peachesdiscolor quickly when exposed to air,so once peeled or cut up, either eat orcook them immediately. If you needto hold them for a bit, sprinkle thepieces with citrus juice, either lemon,lime, orange or pineapple.So enjoy some fresh peaches whilethere’re around and “Have a peachof a day.”Peachy Keen GeorgiaGrilled Grouper - serves 6Marinade:Zest from 1 orangeJuice from 1 lime1 / 2 cup olive oil1 T. chopped garlic1 t. salt4 T. brown sugar6 [6-8 ounces each] whitefish filets (grouper, tilapia, basa, etc)photo by Sara FarrarPlace fish in a shallow container. Combine marinade ingredientstogether in a bowl.Pour marinade over fish, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate forone to two hours.Peachy Keen Salsa:2 cups peeled, chopped fresh peaches (3-4 peaches)1/4 cup chopped red pepper1/4 cup chopped mild green chili pepper (Anaheim, poblano, etc.)1/4 cup chopped Vidalia onionJuice from 1 orangeZest from 1 lime1 T. minced fresh cilantroSalt & Pepper to tasteCombine peach salsa ingredients together. Cover and refrigerateuntil ready to use.Remove fish from marinade and season with salt and pepper.Discard marinade. Grill (or pan fry) the fish until done. Transfer fishto a serving plate and top with Peachy Keen Salsa.Chef Mark Alan Mollentine studied and worked in Dallas before returning hometo Kansas City. His credentials include: banquet chef for a prestigious country club,executive chef at a premier country inn, eight years as a culinary instructor andcurrently, chef / owner of the historic Governor’s Meeting House Restaurant, locatedin Shawnee, KS. (913) 631-2661 More information is available online at: www.GovernorsMeetingHouse.com
HOW TO...Get the Most for Your Protein DollarIt’s nearing the peak of the driving season and we silently shed a tearas we are doling out $70 for a tank of gas, most of us are looking forways to pinch some pennies. I would like to share some tips on howto satisfy your protein cravings on a budget. If you’ve ever watchedthe travel channel and seen Anthony Bourdain or Andrew Zimmern,they both say that anyone can grill a tender steak. It takes some skill tomake something delicious out of the less desirable cuts. Here are a fewideas to learn the craft.1. Barbeque Meats – Most of the cuts used for BBQ are quiteinexpensive. Brisket and pork butt are both wonderful, if you havepatience. The key is overcooking them. These meats will naturallyfall apart once you cook them to about 180°. A meat thermometeris really helpful to check your temp. Slow roast at 300-325° in theoven, covered with aluminum foil so they don’t dry out. Once youshred the meat, add your favorite BBQ sauce for a hearty meal.2. Your Friend the Crock Pot – Stew meat and roasts are also a veryreasonable choice for beef. Slow moist cooking will tenderize thesetough meats into something heavenly. If you don’t have a crockpot, cook in a pot on the stovetop. Just learn the proper setting fora gentle simmer. If there are no bubbles, your temp is too low andit will not soften the connective tissues. If it is boiling too hard it willtoughen the muscle fibers. Just a gentle bubbling like a glass ofchampagne will perfect your masterpiece.3. Ground meats – beef, turkey, pork and lamb can all be had inground form. Using them to make your own tasty meatballs,hamburgers, or meatloaves can give a protein kick without strainingyour pocket book.4. Be your own butcher - grocery stores have to recoup their labor costs,so by being willing to do some of the work, you save a lot of money.Buying in bulk and repacking into smaller sizes, cutting up a wholechicken into pieces, buying a whole pork loin and cutting your ownpork chops are ways you can stretch your protein dollar a little further.5. S.t.r.e.t.c.h. it out – If things are really tight for you, it may not befeasible for everyone to get a 6oz. portion of meat. Learning tomake pastas, casseroles, stir-fries, stews, soups, and salads wherethe meat is an active participant, but not the star of the show, willalso be a big help to your food costs.I hope all of us will keep fighting and weather out the storm. It is atime to be humble and grateful. We all need to focus on the donutand not the hole. Let us all hope that these trials will help us makemuch needed changes that we have ignored for too long. Learning tosimplify our lives, living sustainably, and ecologically friendly will helpus ease the burden.Mike Rochester is the Sous Chef at Terrible’s Casino in St. Joseph, Moand a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in ’93. He is also amember of the Kansas City Chefs Association.July, <strong>20</strong>08 19
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