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The Chinese Men's Cosmetic Market: Guangzhou, Hong Kong and ...

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Reported Provided to U.S. Commercial Service, U.S. Department of Commerce<br />

by Ohio Northern University, <strong>The</strong> James F. Dicke College of Business Administration<br />

<strong>The</strong> USDOC does not endorse any of the contents herein, but provides as a market<br />

research courtesy to American exporters.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Chinese</strong> Men’s <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Market</strong>:<br />

<strong>Guangzhou</strong>, <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> <strong>and</strong> Macau<br />

By: Alyxia Caragiu<br />

Chi Wo (Wilson) Wu<br />

Britney Melcher<br />

Benoit Schwoerer<br />

Peter Fitch<br />

Robert Bourdette<br />

Peter Fitch<br />

Matthew Keating<br />

Mikhail Prokopovich


2<br />

Contents<br />

Contents .............................................................................................................................. 2<br />

Abstract ............................................................................................................................... 3<br />

Men’s <strong>Cosmetic</strong>s Products .................................................................................................. 3<br />

Overview of the <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Market</strong> ...................................................................................... 4<br />

Overview of the prospective cities of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, Macau, <strong>and</strong> <strong>Guangzhou</strong> ..................... 5<br />

<strong>Market</strong> Dynamics ................................................................................................................ 6<br />

<strong>Market</strong> Dem<strong>and</strong> .................................................................................................................. 8<br />

Consumer Behavior: ........................................................................................................... 9<br />

Purchasing decision influence factors ............................................................................... 10<br />

Primary Research .............................................................................................................. 11<br />

<strong>Market</strong> Entry Strategies .................................................................................................... 12<br />

<strong>Chinese</strong> Politics ................................................................................................................. 15<br />

Advertising Regulations.................................................................................................... 18<br />

Conclusion ........................................................................................................................ 20<br />

Works Cited ...................................................................................................................... 21


Abstract<br />

This paper focuses on exploring what is sure to be a market with high growth<br />

potential: the men’s cosmetics market in China. <strong>The</strong> market opportunities within the<br />

areas of, <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, <strong>Guangzhou</strong>, <strong>and</strong> Macau will be identified <strong>and</strong> discussed throughout<br />

this paper. Research has been conducted on the size, characteristics, dem<strong>and</strong>, consumer<br />

attributes, <strong>and</strong> potential market entry strategies. Primary research was conducted on a<br />

sample of consumers within these markets, the results of which are detailed below.<br />

Additionally, the legal requirements <strong>and</strong> political characteristics of each individual region<br />

have been identified <strong>and</strong> links have been provided to ease the research process. <strong>The</strong> goal<br />

of this paper is to aid American firms in underst<strong>and</strong>ing the male cosmetic market in<br />

China <strong>and</strong> to provide valuable information that will help these firms identify profitable<br />

segments within various regions. To those who grasp this unique culture <strong>and</strong> business<br />

l<strong>and</strong>scape there are great rewards to be gained from involvement in the industry of male<br />

cosmetics.<br />

Men’s <strong>Cosmetic</strong>s Products<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are numerous types of men’s cosmetics products. In fact, there are almost<br />

as many cosmetic products directed towards the male consumer as there are for the<br />

female consumers. Some of the most common products used by the <strong>Chinese</strong> male<br />

consumer include facial cleansers, body <strong>and</strong> hair care, shaving care, moisturizers,<br />

fragrance, lip moisturizer, <strong>and</strong> deodorants. Within the areas of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> <strong>and</strong> Macau,<br />

the product offerings have become more extensive <strong>and</strong> sophisticated. Product lines<br />

include “anti-ageing, exfoliating <strong>and</strong> energy-boosting properties… Several cosmetics<br />

firms led by L'Oreal have introduced China-specific products, such as face whitening<br />

creams” (Jones). L’Oreal is also selling its newly developed charcoal mousse for men in<br />

China, something that is expected to become a bestseller (Jones). According to a<br />

spokesman for Procter & Gamble, “Spending by <strong>Chinese</strong> men on all kinds of face<br />

creams, anti-aging gels <strong>and</strong> cleansing lotions already exceeds spending on razors <strong>and</strong><br />

blades by a factor of 4:3 <strong>and</strong> the gap will keep widening” (Balfour). Some of the best<br />

selling men’s products include: “L’Oreal’s Men Expert line, which is the No. 1 br<strong>and</strong><br />

within China <strong>and</strong> has helped L’Oreal gain a 32 percent market share in 2009. Other key<br />

products include the domestic br<strong>and</strong> GF’s creams <strong>and</strong> lotions, followed by premium<br />

skincare products developed by Shiseido, Dior, <strong>and</strong> Clinique.” (Red Luxury) According<br />

to ChinaPolling, “Almost 99% of male consumers regularly use cosmetics, with facial<br />

cleanser, body <strong>and</strong> hair care, <strong>and</strong> shaving cream being the most frequently used products”<br />

(CinaPolling). <strong>Chinese</strong> men are beginning to feel the pressure of fast-paced life style <strong>and</strong><br />

are turning to male cosmetics to boost their appearance <strong>and</strong> give them a competitive edge<br />

within their personal <strong>and</strong> professional lives. Though some men are not quite ready to be<br />

“Du Shi Yu Nan” or City Jade Men, the name given to men who purchase <strong>and</strong> use<br />

3


cosmetics (<strong>and</strong> the local language term that translates to “metrosexuals”), studies show<br />

that 50% of purchases at L’Oreal’s China stores come from women buying for their<br />

husb<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> boyfriends (Balfour).<br />

Overview of the <strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Market</strong><br />

4<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> & Macau<br />

<strong>The</strong> manufacturing sector for cosmetics <strong>and</strong> toiletries in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> is fairly<br />

small. Most local manufacturers produce toiletries <strong>and</strong> perfumes that compete at a low<br />

price level. In the mid to high end market, international br<strong>and</strong>s overtake local ones.<br />

Lately, international companies such as Sulwhasoo, Kiehl’s <strong>and</strong> L’Occitane are making<br />

men’s skin care products in addition to their female product lines. (HKTDC)<br />

As of December 2010, there were 80 establishments in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> producing<br />

cosmetics. Most of the companies in the industry are traders who sell to the <strong>Chinese</strong><br />

mainl<strong>and</strong>, United States, Macau, Japan, Southeast Asia <strong>and</strong> the European markets.<br />

(HKTDC) <strong>The</strong> <strong>Chinese</strong> Mainl<strong>and</strong> accounts for 19.7% of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s cosmetic product<br />

exports, followed closely by Macau, with 19.5%. <strong>The</strong> United States st<strong>and</strong>s at number<br />

three, with 13% of exports from <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>. (HKTDC)<br />

Some mid to high-end foreign br<strong>and</strong>s procure sales counters in department stores<br />

<strong>and</strong> often set up outlets within shopping centers. Salons often sell professional grade<br />

products <strong>and</strong> specialty cosmetics chains sell international br<strong>and</strong>s at heavily discounted<br />

prices. International br<strong>and</strong>s have strengthened their sales by selling their products through<br />

various internet sites. (HKTDC)<br />

Research shows that <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> consumers are using popular br<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong><br />

products made from natural ingredients. (New Zeal<strong>and</strong> Trade <strong>and</strong> Enterprise) Large<br />

product categories in this segment include facial moisturizers, anti-aging products, makeup<br />

foundation, lipsticks <strong>and</strong> eye makeup. (New Zeal<strong>and</strong> Trade <strong>and</strong> Enterprise)<br />

In <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, the skincare market grew 9% from 2002 to 2007. In 2007, 85% of<br />

the market share was comprised of skincare products. Another 12% market share was<br />

evenly divided between body products <strong>and</strong> sun care. (New Zeal<strong>and</strong> Trade <strong>and</strong> Enterprise)<br />

Increasing amounts of tourists from mainl<strong>and</strong> China have boosted cosmetic<br />

industry sales. “According to the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Tourism Board, about 80% of the mainl<strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>Chinese</strong> tourists who visited <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> ‘went shopping’ <strong>and</strong> cosmetic <strong>and</strong> skincare<br />

products were among their top 3 shopping purchases”. (New Zeal<strong>and</strong> Trade <strong>and</strong><br />

Enterprise)<br />

As the average age in China increases, there continues to be a strong dem<strong>and</strong> for<br />

anti-aging “cosmeceutical” products that feature a concoction of vitamins, herbs, <strong>and</strong><br />

sometimes pharmaceuticals such as vitamin C lotions, tea tree oil-infused cleansers <strong>and</strong><br />

collagen masks.<br />

In <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, men currently make up less than 10% of the total expenditure on<br />

skincare products. However, many well established br<strong>and</strong>s such as L’Oreal <strong>and</strong> Shiseido


are taking advantage of this emerging market by creating product lines especially for men<br />

<strong>and</strong> opening up men-only skincare centers. (New Zeal<strong>and</strong> Trade <strong>and</strong> Enterprise)<br />

Very little industry data can be found for Macau. A case can be argued that<br />

Macau, however, is very similar to <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> in terms of the men’s cosmetic market.<br />

Both regions are special administrative regions in China <strong>and</strong> enjoy more freedom when it<br />

comes to foreign trade. Both cities have had a history heavily influenced by European<br />

foreigners <strong>and</strong> share many of the same consumer tastes <strong>and</strong> preferences.<br />

5<br />

<strong>Guangzhou</strong> & Mainl<strong>and</strong> China<br />

In mainl<strong>and</strong> China, domestic products are more popular in the lower-end<br />

segments, while international br<strong>and</strong>s are the main players within the mid- to high-end<br />

market. (Li & Fung Research Center) <strong>The</strong> sales value of cosmetics has increased steadily<br />

from 2005 to 2009 in mainl<strong>and</strong> China, hitting $111 billion in 2009. (Li & Fung Research<br />

Center) <strong>The</strong>se numbers look very promising; however increase in costs, such as “rental,<br />

labor, logistics, advertisement, <strong>and</strong> slotting fee etc. are exerting heavy pressure on<br />

cosmetic enterprises.” (Li & Fung Research Center) “Many cosmetics players, especially<br />

those with poorer br<strong>and</strong> equity, have witnessed their profit margin eroding.” (Li & Fung<br />

Research Center)<br />

Unexpectedly, <strong>Guangzhou</strong> is the center for cosmetics <strong>and</strong> beauty product<br />

transactions in China. <strong>The</strong> annual beauty cosmetics transactions in <strong>Guangzhou</strong> accounted<br />

for over 40% of the country’s transactions in this industry. (Wholesale<strong>Market</strong>) <strong>The</strong><br />

Guangdong province (of which <strong>Guangzhou</strong> is the capital) has been center of the local<br />

beauty <strong>and</strong> fashion industry since the 1980’s. It serves as the entry point for many<br />

international companies seeking to take part in the <strong>Chinese</strong> market. “Of the 2,800<br />

producers of beauty, hair, cosmetic, personal daily care <strong>and</strong> toiletry products in China,<br />

1,500 are found in the Guangdong province, across cities such as <strong>Guangzhou</strong>, Shantou,<br />

<strong>and</strong> others. <strong>The</strong>se cities alone are collectively responsible for 70% of the output in<br />

China.” (ForeignerCN.com) Guangdong is known as having the most mature supply<br />

chain industry <strong>and</strong> the most advanced infrastructure system compared to other provinces.<br />

Additionally, these regions are considered to be the most appropriate environment for the<br />

beauty <strong>and</strong> cosmetic industry. (ForeignerCN.com)<br />

<strong>The</strong> men’s skin care <strong>and</strong> cosmetics market within <strong>Guangzhou</strong> reached a record of<br />

$1.1 million in 2008 <strong>and</strong> was predicted to hit $2.1 million in 2010. <strong>The</strong> market<br />

penetration for the men’s cosmetic market is low <strong>and</strong> thus rapid sales growth is apparent.<br />

“<strong>Market</strong> specialists point out that young men, aged between 18 <strong>and</strong> 25, including students<br />

<strong>and</strong> white-collar workers are still the major customers <strong>and</strong> main drivers of growth in the<br />

market”. (UK Trade <strong>and</strong> Investment)<br />

Overview of the prospective cities of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, Macau, <strong>and</strong> <strong>Guangzhou</strong><br />

Shanghai <strong>and</strong> Beijing are the most well-known <strong>and</strong> prosperous cities within<br />

China. <strong>The</strong> cosmetic markets in those two cities are competitive <strong>and</strong> condensed, which<br />

makes almost impossible for some small companies to enter the cosmetic market. In<br />

addition, those global companies are looking for any means to increase their market


shares. <strong>The</strong>refore, it is essential to be able to identify any secondary cities that would<br />

become the next Shanghai or Beijing, which has over 6 million <strong>and</strong> 8 million visitors per<br />

year respectively (Facts <strong>and</strong> Details). <strong>The</strong>re are a few secondary cities that show a huge<br />

potential growth in cosmetic market <strong>and</strong> long term profit. Those secondary cities are<br />

<strong>Guangzhou</strong>, Macau, <strong>and</strong> <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>. <strong>Guangzhou</strong> is the key national transportation hub<br />

<strong>and</strong> trading port <strong>and</strong> it is the third largest city in China as well as the largest city in<br />

southern China. Economically, <strong>Guangzhou</strong> is one of mainl<strong>and</strong> China’s leading<br />

commercial <strong>and</strong> manufacturing regions. In 2009, the GDP reached $133.5 billion, with<br />

total income per capita around $13,111. Additionally, <strong>Guangzhou</strong> has the International<br />

Beauty Expo annually, which is the most influential beauty trade event in China. <strong>The</strong><br />

expo attracts visitors from all over China, Asia, Europe, America, <strong>and</strong> the Pacific region.<br />

With 10 exhibition halls presenting a wide spectrum of beauty <strong>and</strong> related products, each<br />

edition recorded over 200,000 entries by trade buyers <strong>and</strong> professional visitors in 2010<br />

(CantonFair.net). <strong>The</strong> <strong>Guangzhou</strong> Beauty Expo has become one of the best known beauty<br />

industry events in the world. <strong>The</strong> men’s cosmetic market within Macau <strong>and</strong> <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong><br />

are expected to see significant growth for several reasons. First, the mainl<strong>and</strong> granted all<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> <strong>and</strong> Macau products tariff-free treatment under the Mainl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong><br />

Closer Economic Partnership Arrangement (CEPA). All goods made in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>,<br />

including cosmetics <strong>and</strong> toiletries products subject to the CEPA’s rule of origin, can<br />

enjoy duty-free access to the <strong>Chinese</strong> mainl<strong>and</strong> since January 2006. Second, there are 28<br />

million visitors <strong>and</strong> 14.6 million visitors to Macau <strong>and</strong> <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> each year<br />

respectively. An estimated 58 percent of these visitors from mainl<strong>and</strong> China come to<br />

Macau each, <strong>and</strong> the number of visitors has increased at a steady rate 13.4 percent since<br />

2007 (HKTDC).<br />

With the arrival of mainl<strong>and</strong> tourists under the individual visitor scheme <strong>and</strong> the<br />

concomitant surge in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s cosmetics sales, many businessmen are eyeing the<br />

lucrative local cosmetics market. <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> is often viewed as a showcase region for<br />

foreign br<strong>and</strong>s wishing to target mainl<strong>and</strong> customers <strong>and</strong> has continued to attract new<br />

br<strong>and</strong>s. Thirdly, <strong>Chinese</strong> men are becoming much more health <strong>and</strong> appearance cautious<br />

within the secondary cities. In addition, the dem<strong>and</strong> for men’s cosmetic products has<br />

been increasing consistently since appearance takes a more important in business in<br />

China. This change has often been referred to as the “beauty economy”. Finally, the<br />

purchasing power for the middle class <strong>and</strong> the willingness to spend money on cosmetics<br />

products are ranked among the top five compared to the rest of secondary cities in China,<br />

which explains why <strong>Guangzhou</strong>, Macau, <strong>and</strong> <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> are the three of the most<br />

attractive secondary cities to many cosmetic companies.<br />

<strong>Market</strong> Dynamics<br />

China currently st<strong>and</strong>s as the second-largest economy in the world with $10.09<br />

trillion in sales in 2010 (CIA). With a GDP growth rate of 9% per year <strong>and</strong> a steady<br />

increase in disposable income, there is a large market for companies interested in<br />

pursuing the market for personal care items (Nielson). Fueling China’s economic boom is<br />

the increased migration to urban areas over the past 10 years. Increased work<br />

opportunities in urban areas have lead to a steady increase in disposable income at a level<br />

6


3 times that of rural China (Nielson). By 2025, it is projected that 59% of China’s urban<br />

households will be in the upper middle class <strong>and</strong> earning between $20,000 <strong>and</strong> $40,000<br />

per year (Nielson). This increase will stimulate spending in areas such as food, apparel,<br />

household products, <strong>and</strong> personal products.<br />

Growing Middle Class<br />

According to <strong>The</strong> China State Information Center (CSIC), the <strong>Chinese</strong> middle<br />

class currently contains around 300 million people. While classifications differ, if a<br />

<strong>Chinese</strong> citizen has a stable income sufficient to afford an apartment, a car, a child’s<br />

education, <strong>and</strong> more discretionary purchases, they are likely to be considered members of<br />

the middle class (LiAnne Yu). As of 2010, about 25% of the population falls into this<br />

category (Nielson). <strong>The</strong>re has been a 350% increase in per capita income over the last 60<br />

years <strong>and</strong> the population is on track to create a 700% growth over the next 20 years. By<br />

2025, there should be a consumer market of around 1.3 billion people (Nielson).<br />

Although the wealth is highly concentrated in urban areas, overall increased income is<br />

driving the spending habits of the population (Nielson).<br />

7<br />

China’s New Consumer<br />

China’s new consumers view products as status symbols (LiAnne Yu). Increased<br />

competition in the job market has caused a recent surge in the cosmetic industry as<br />

individuals are looking to differentiate <strong>and</strong> improve their appearance to improve their<br />

professional st<strong>and</strong>ing. <strong>The</strong> wealthiest consumers in China will be between 25 <strong>and</strong> 44<br />

years of age (Nielson). China’s new consumers are young, have higher incomes, <strong>and</strong><br />

access to more information. <strong>The</strong>se shoppers frequent hypermarkets <strong>and</strong> supermarkets<br />

channels for their spending channels. “Convenient to get”, “Staff provided good service,”<br />

<strong>and</strong> “clean <strong>and</strong> hygienic stores” are the key drivers influencing where these customers<br />

choose to shop (Nielson).<br />

<strong>Chinese</strong> Consumer Confidence<br />

<strong>The</strong> Consumer Confidence Index measures the degree of optimism that<br />

consumers feel about the overall state of the economy <strong>and</strong> their personal finances.<br />

Consumer confidence levels above <strong>and</strong> below a base of 100 represent varying degrees of<br />

optimism <strong>and</strong> pessimism. Shoppers growing confidence reflects an increased willingness<br />

<strong>and</strong> ability to spend (Daily). <strong>The</strong> Nielson Consumer Confidence survey asks over 3,500<br />

<strong>Chinese</strong> how confidently they feel in regards to their job, financial prospects, <strong>and</strong><br />

willingness to spend (Nielson). Results from the most recent survey indicate that <strong>Chinese</strong><br />

consumers are increasingly optimistic. In the most recent Nielson survey from 2009,<br />

China’s average consumer confidence score was 103 while the world average was only<br />

87 (Economics).<br />

<strong>Cosmetic</strong> <strong>Market</strong><br />

On a national level, shampoo leads the non-food spending categories with an annual<br />

growth rate of around 7%. Additionally, skin moisturizer has an annual growth rate of<br />

around 11%. Toner achieved the highest non-food growth rate with a 37% national sales


value growth from 2008-2009 (Nielson). <strong>The</strong> significant amount of growth has come<br />

from the recent emergence of men’s cosmetic products. <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> is one of the most<br />

significant areas of opportunity for men’s skin care products. <strong>The</strong> Deloitte Business case<br />

study states that <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> is an important launch pad for marketing cosmetics <strong>and</strong><br />

skincare products into the mainl<strong>and</strong> <strong>Chinese</strong> market (Deloitte). Over 23 million tourists<br />

visit <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> for shopping <strong>and</strong> tourism each year with a majority of those visitors<br />

from the mainl<strong>and</strong>. Retailers <strong>and</strong> distributors are eager to increase the variety of men’s<br />

cosmetic products <strong>and</strong> are looking to cater to needs of the local population (Deloitte). In<br />

2010, the size of the cosmetic market was estimated at $1.169 billion <strong>and</strong> is expected to<br />

grow 21% in 2012. Male consumers in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> between 30 <strong>and</strong> 49 represent the<br />

largest age group, have the highest disposable income, <strong>and</strong> are the biggest buyers of<br />

men’s skincare products (Deloitte). To help meet the dem<strong>and</strong>s of the market, there has<br />

been an increase in the number of men-only skincare salons opening throughout this<br />

region (Deloitte).<br />

<strong>Market</strong> Dem<strong>and</strong><br />

8<br />

Size of <strong>Market</strong> <strong>and</strong> Potential <strong>Market</strong> Growth<br />

As the job markets are becoming more saturated <strong>and</strong> competitive, men are<br />

beginning to show more of an interest in how they look. This phenomenon has created a<br />

large market for men’s cosmetic products. <strong>The</strong> male cosmetic industry in China is seeing<br />

aggressive growth rates in several regions. With about ten percent of <strong>Chinese</strong> men<br />

already using skin care products made specifically for them the market is projected to<br />

exp<strong>and</strong> by 28.7 percent by 2014 (Terradaily.com). Research indicates that as a man’s<br />

income rises in China they will begin to purchase personal care cosmetics in order for<br />

them to get ahead professionally. <strong>The</strong> current leading consumers of men’s cosmetics in<br />

China are the white-collar workers who are entrepreneurs with above average salaries.<br />

China will account for half of global growth in the men’s skin care market from 2009-<br />

2014 which opens up huge opportunity for growth for cosmetic companies<br />

(Euromonitor). Even though 500 of the 3500 cosmetic manufactures in China are foreign<br />

owned they control eighty percent of the market share (Facts<strong>and</strong>details.com/China). In<br />

2010 the sale of men’s skin care products increased by thirty percent to $280 million in<br />

China, ahead of the United States (Terradaily.com). Increasing consumer-lending<br />

dem<strong>and</strong> for specialized products will drive the <strong>Chinese</strong> cosmetics <strong>and</strong> toiletries market to<br />

grow at a compound annual growth rate of around 12% during 2011-2014, says<br />

RNCOS.com. With such a spike in dem<strong>and</strong> for male cosmetics, spa’s are unable to keep<br />

up with dem<strong>and</strong> which results in opportunity for retail sales for companies like Proctor<br />

<strong>and</strong> Gamble <strong>and</strong> L’Oreal.<br />

Research demonstrates that men are embarrassed to buy cosmetics for themselves<br />

<strong>and</strong> often have a family member or wife purchase the products for them which results in<br />

female <strong>and</strong> male cosmetics to be sold together in China for ease of sale. In 2010, the<br />

population in China was 1,339,724,852 with 51.27% being males. With about 72% of the


675 million males in China falling between the ages of 15-65 this leaves a potential<br />

market of about 410 million males with only 41 million or ten percent currently<br />

purchasing cosmetics leaves about 369 million potential new customers. This is a<br />

massive market size to target which opens opportunity to current <strong>and</strong> new cosmetic<br />

manufacturers <strong>and</strong> retailers.<br />

Consumer Behavior:<br />

<strong>The</strong> Gross domestic product (GDP) at purchasing power parity (PPP) is the<br />

sum value of all goods <strong>and</strong> services produced in a given year at prices prevailing in the<br />

United States. Here are the figures for the year 2010.<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Macau Shenzhen <strong>Guangzhou</strong><br />

GDP PPP<br />

(billion $)<br />

224.46 31.27 146.44 163.32<br />

GDP per capita ($) 34,587 59,451 14,615 12,860<br />

<strong>The</strong> GDP per capita is the gross domestic product divided by the population. We can see<br />

that Macau <strong>and</strong> <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> have a high purchasing power. (GDP; PPP (US dollar) )<br />

It means that many people likely have the disposable income to afford non-essential<br />

lifestyle products such as cosmetics. <strong>The</strong>refore, these markets are very interesting.<br />

9<br />

<strong>Chinese</strong> general tastes <strong>and</strong> preferences:<br />

<strong>Chinese</strong> consumers who are concerned about the environment mainly live in<br />

the big cities like Shanghai or Beijing. More <strong>and</strong> more of these men are also concerned<br />

with their health status. This is why many advertising campaigns use issues such as being<br />

overweight, pollution, <strong>and</strong> skin care issues to create a dem<strong>and</strong> for their products. <strong>Chinese</strong><br />

consumers are unpredictable <strong>and</strong> dem<strong>and</strong>ing <strong>and</strong> many factors may come into play when<br />

buying a product. <strong>The</strong>re are not as br<strong>and</strong> loyal as American consumers but they love<br />

famous br<strong>and</strong>s. (Labbr<strong>and</strong>) <strong>The</strong>y are very influenced by price <strong>and</strong> innovations. <strong>Chinese</strong><br />

people also appreciate luxury goods <strong>and</strong> products associated with luxury. A good<br />

cosmetic product must highlight the health benefits <strong>and</strong> have a relatively luxurious<br />

packaging with a price comparable to those of the competitors. Those purchasing<br />

decision influence factors are summarized in the following graph.


Purchasing decision influence factors<br />

We can notice that the three most important purchasing factors are the features<br />

<strong>and</strong> benefits of the product, the br<strong>and</strong> name <strong>and</strong> the ingredients of the product.<br />

10<br />

29.71% 28.28%<br />

42.75%<br />

57.97%<br />

53.62%<br />

64.49%<br />

71.01%<br />

81.88%<br />

56.52%<br />

55.8% 60.14%<br />

50.72%<br />

50.72% 21.74% 19.57% 16.57%<br />

4.35% 4.35% 7.25% 7.97% 9.42% 13.77% 19.57% 21.01% 22.46% 20.29% 26.81%<br />

36.96%<br />

34.06%<br />

28.26%<br />

24.64%<br />

13.77%<br />

<strong>Cosmetic</strong> Usage Habits:<br />

43.48%<br />

Ten percent of <strong>Chinese</strong> men are already using skin care products specifically<br />

made for them (L'Oreal). <strong>The</strong>se customers typically live in urban areas. <strong>The</strong>y are more<br />

educated <strong>and</strong> more knowledgeable than the average consumer about the benefits of those<br />

products. <strong>The</strong>se consumers are mainly white-collar workers, entrepreneurs or people<br />

whose salaries are above the average (20minutes). <strong>The</strong>y are looking for safe <strong>and</strong> quality<br />

products. <strong>Chinese</strong> men believe that using skin care products can give them a competitive<br />

edge for their jobs <strong>and</strong> can help them improve their social status. (Balfour) (China's male<br />

cosmetic market of Heuristics)<br />

<strong>The</strong> attitudes have changed about men who take care of their appearance.<br />

<strong>Chinese</strong> men don’t have any problem using these products (Tianyu).This new confidence<br />

comes from the desire to impress <strong>and</strong> to show their success. Nevertheless, they are often<br />

too embarrassed to buy the products themselves. Women account for about half of the<br />

male products purchases. (Li-chyun) In fact male products sell best when they’re sold<br />

with women’s cosmetics. In this way, men no longer have to borrow cosmetics products<br />

from their wives or girlfriends.<br />

Strong<br />

Not so strong<br />

No influence


11<br />

Products used:<br />

65 percent of <strong>Chinese</strong> men who use cosmetics are using skin-cleaning products,<br />

with milks <strong>and</strong> scrubs among the most popular among shoppers.<br />

However, while sales of moisturizers <strong>and</strong> lotions may be on the rise, few men are buying<br />

facial masks. <strong>The</strong>y also are purchasing skin lotions, whitening agents, face cleansing<br />

cream, deodorant spray, mud masks <strong>and</strong> anti-aging beauty creams made especially for<br />

them. (Hays)<br />

However, the habits <strong>and</strong> products used are changing rapidly. <strong>The</strong> male cosmetics<br />

are a new market <strong>and</strong> the tastes are constantly changing. Innovation is the key to success<br />

in this market. <strong>Chinese</strong> men are ready to use more <strong>and</strong> more new products.<br />

Primary Research<br />

Primary research was conducted in order to supplement the data presented in this<br />

research. A survey was sent to 28 young people with an average age of 21 years old, the<br />

optimal age demographic for predicting future market behavior in the cosmetic industry.<br />

20 of these young people were men <strong>and</strong> 8 women. <strong>The</strong> sample was drawn from youth<br />

with permanent residence in or originally from <strong>Guangzhou</strong>, <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, Macau, our<br />

target cities. We have summarized the results below.<br />

Within the survey population, in terms of products, the most common product<br />

men chose were moisturizing cream, shaving foam, hair style produts, deodorant, <strong>and</strong><br />

cologne. <strong>The</strong> majority of men indicated that they normally buy men’s cosmetics by<br />

themselves, <strong>and</strong> they rarely buy it through their friends or family, or are given cosmetics<br />

as gifts. <strong>The</strong> average pocket money per month (in dollar) that our <strong>Chinese</strong> respondents<br />

have is about $560 dollars, <strong>and</strong> the average amount of money they would spend on<br />

cosmetic products per month is about $65 dollars, which is roughly 12 percent of their<br />

disposable income.<br />

<strong>The</strong> survey results show that men are more concerned about their appearances<br />

than ever before, <strong>and</strong> they believe cosmetic products will make them look younger.<br />

Especially in the business world, appearance is important in achieving success, <strong>and</strong> most<br />

of the students pointed out that they would be somewhat embarrassed if they were around<br />

people <strong>and</strong> did not look their best. Essentially, students use cosmetic products not only to<br />

boost up their confidence, but also for medical treatment purposes. In the men’s survey,<br />

13 out of 20 students indicated cosmetic products were necessary in every aspect of life,<br />

<strong>and</strong> past experiences have significant impact on their decision of what br<strong>and</strong>s they should<br />

purchase.<br />

Most of them would rather purchase cosmetic products through stores because it<br />

normally takes 2-3 days for delivery in China. Also, people want to try the products<br />

before purchasing them in order to avoid risk of purchasing poor quality products.<br />

Interestingly, we discovered that the men who are married or in a relationship tend to<br />

spend more money on cosmetic products than those who are single. From the women’s<br />

survey, responses showed that women expect men to use cosmetic products.<br />

Additionally, these women have indicated that it is normal for them to see men purchase<br />

cosmetic products at the store.


Surprisingly, the 8 female students who did the survey expressed that they do not<br />

believe men who wear cosmetic products are un-masculine, which is different from the<br />

past perspective of women. Another interesting aspect of the primary research indicated<br />

that women who are married or in a relationship state that their partners would make<br />

them proud if they put in the effort to look their best around their peers.<br />

<strong>Market</strong> Entry Strategies<br />

12<br />

China<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are several factors that need to be considered when entering China’s<br />

market. First is an assessment of the dem<strong>and</strong> for the products <strong>and</strong> how it will be<br />

perceived in this culture. With an increase in the usage of cosmetics, the dem<strong>and</strong> for<br />

these products is large. Just because the current dem<strong>and</strong> st<strong>and</strong>s high, this does not mean<br />

that it will remain consistent over the years. It is important to also determine whether or<br />

not there will be a future dem<strong>and</strong>. Lastly, a company needs to assess their own<br />

commitment to this market, before pursuing any business ventures within China. All of<br />

these factors assist in determining an entry strategy (Gross).<br />

Common trends for market entry in China include exporting directly to mainl<strong>and</strong>,<br />

establishing a distributer in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, setting up a joint venture, or establishing a<br />

wholly foreign owned enterprise. Exporting to <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> <strong>and</strong> then distributing to China<br />

is a more simple strategy to implement. A well-established distributer would have<br />

connections within the mainl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> would be familiar with the market. This strategy<br />

ensures sales of the products, but may require costs paid to the distributer. To<br />

compensate for these extra costs, businesses tend to increase the price for the end-user<br />

(Lee).<br />

Trading directly to China may include contacting a foreign trading corporation,<br />

dealing with industrial trading companies, finding a more exclusive independent trading<br />

company, selling directly to the end-user, or using a domestic <strong>Chinese</strong> distributor.<br />

Foreign trading corporations are large organizations in China that are available to assist<br />

new entrants to the market. <strong>The</strong>y provide information that will assist with strategies used<br />

to sell products. However, these corporations typically lack knowledge on specific<br />

industries. <strong>The</strong>ir focus is more on market analysis. Industrial trading companies make<br />

up for this lack of knowledge, but they tend to focus on market trends in specific<br />

geographical regions. Independent trading companies have a higher cost, but are of more<br />

assistance. Dealing with one of these independent companies would be similar to hiring<br />

on a specialized staff to create an entry strategy. <strong>The</strong> last method would include selling<br />

directly to the end-user. This is the most costly approach as it requires a labor force to<br />

direct sales in China (Gross). Exporting goods directly requires a substantial amount of<br />

registration <strong>and</strong> knowledge of business practices <strong>and</strong> regulations, <strong>and</strong> is therefore not<br />

recommended for beginners in the exporting game to China. Using a distributor in China<br />

is recommended. <strong>The</strong> distributor will have knowledge of China’s laws <strong>and</strong> regulations<br />

<strong>and</strong> access to market information (Lee).<br />

<strong>The</strong> option to establish a joint venture or wholly foreign owned enterprise is even<br />

more complex. <strong>The</strong> exact type of legal entity depends on the size <strong>and</strong> structure of the


company. More information can be found at the SAIC website (State Administration for<br />

Industry <strong>and</strong> Commerce): http://202.108.90.68/index.html. It is on this state owned<br />

website that the documents required for setting up a limited liability company in China<br />

are found (SAIC). Foreign investors seek ownership of the company’s products <strong>and</strong> will<br />

distribute them to the market in China. <strong>The</strong>re are several advantages <strong>and</strong> disadvantages<br />

to this strategy. <strong>The</strong> parent company will have limited liability but will lose some control<br />

of management decisions. <strong>The</strong> investors will provide direction on sales of all products<br />

involved. <strong>The</strong> joint venture or wholly foreign owned enterprise will be considered an<br />

entity under the company’s ordinance. Cost risks will decrease as investors are<br />

responsible for earning revenue, <strong>and</strong> taxes will decrease for the parent<br />

company. Production will occur in-house eliminating the need for exports to the country.<br />

However, this may impede on production methods as policies vary (Gross).<br />

13<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong><br />

Entering the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> market is similar to mainl<strong>and</strong> China. Two other methods<br />

(not stated above) include establishing a branch office <strong>and</strong> establishing a partnership.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se two options allow for a quick entry as in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, the minimal time to<br />

establish a business is six days. “If a company incorporated outside <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> has<br />

established a place of business in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, it is required to register with the<br />

Companies Registry within one month of the establishment of the place of business as a<br />

“non-<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> company” under Part XI of the Companies Ordinance. Unlike a<br />

subsidiary, a branch can leverage off the credit rating of the overseas owner. It is not a<br />

separate legal entity from the parent” (Invest HK- <strong>The</strong> Government of the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong><br />

Special Administrative Region). Having a branch office requires the parent company to<br />

take full responsibility. <strong>The</strong> company is required to follow all local policies <strong>and</strong> will deal<br />

with distribution to the end-users. An advantage to having a branch or partnership in<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> is the location. Distribution to mainl<strong>and</strong> or the locals will require fewer<br />

exports, hence less cost. In the cosmetics industry, these branches would target locations<br />

such as malls or outlets for selling their products (HKTDC).<br />

<strong>The</strong> most involved entry method is direct investment into <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, in which a<br />

person or group of people set up a business within the city. One of the most basic<br />

methods to do this is to set up a sole proprietorship. This is ideal for those setting up<br />

small businesses who do not wish to become involved in the more complicated<br />

paperwork of more complex business structures. Businesses selling cosmetics would<br />

develop an establishment in a local mall, or would setup an outlet on a popular strip in<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>. A form for business registration is required in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>. More<br />

information can be found on the Inl<strong>and</strong> Revenue Department Website at:<br />

http://www.ird.gov.hk/eng/tax/bre.htm . <strong>The</strong> model of sole proprietorship allows for easy<br />

start-up, <strong>and</strong> decision-making flexibility, but exposes the owner to full financial liability<br />

(HKTDC).<br />

For those who are not willing to expose themselves to the financial risk of setting<br />

up a sole proprietorship in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, the option to incorporate a business exists. “Most<br />

of the limited companies incorporated in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> are private companies limited by<br />

shares.” (Invest HK- <strong>The</strong> Government of the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Special Administrative Region)<br />

Incorporating a company in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> can easily be done online at:


https://www.eregistry.gov.hk/icris-ext/apps/por01a/index or by submitting the<br />

appropriate documents <strong>and</strong> fees at the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Companies Registry. <strong>The</strong> documents<br />

required are an Incorporation Form NC1 (for a company limited by shares); a copy of the<br />

Company’s Memor<strong>and</strong>um of Association <strong>and</strong> Articles of Association <strong>and</strong> a Notice to<br />

Business Registration Office. <strong>The</strong> fees for incorporating a local company limited by<br />

shares are: an application fee of HK $1,720 <strong>and</strong> a capital fee of HK $1 for every part of<br />

HK $1,000 of the nominal share capital. A maximum capital fee is set at HK $30,000 per<br />

case. (Invest HK- <strong>The</strong> Government of the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Special Administrative Region)<br />

Exporting directly to <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> involves few risks <strong>and</strong> is a cost-savvy option.<br />

Exporting is also a valid option for companies wishing to enter the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> market<br />

since <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> imposes no tariffs on general imports (US Commercial Service).<br />

General trade policies may be found at: http://www.tdc.trade.com/sme/iepract/index.htm.<br />

Distributors will import the cosmetics <strong>and</strong> distribute them accordingly. Two options for<br />

distribution would include controlled <strong>and</strong> secondary. Controlled distribution follows the<br />

ordinance of the parent company. <strong>The</strong>y decide where the products will be distributed,<br />

hence giving the parent company control of sales. Secondary distribution is controlled by<br />

the distributor <strong>and</strong> sales are made from the parent company to the distributor. Secondary<br />

distribution lacks control <strong>and</strong> may prevent the success of a business attempting to enter<br />

the market (New Zeal<strong>and</strong> Trade <strong>and</strong> Enterprise).<br />

14<br />

Macau<br />

<strong>The</strong> procedure for setting up a company in Macau is as follows: the first step is<br />

the application of admissibility of a trade name; the second step is writing the<br />

Memor<strong>and</strong>um <strong>and</strong> Articles of Association within 60 days of obtaining a trade name; the<br />

third is the registry of the company within 15 days of signing the memor<strong>and</strong>um; <strong>and</strong> the<br />

fourth is the declaration of commencement of operation.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Commercial Registry Office in Macau (CRCBM) h<strong>and</strong>les the applications for<br />

trade names. <strong>The</strong> requirements for obtaining a trade name are the required forms with<br />

proposed name <strong>and</strong> a clear definition of the objectives of the company. <strong>The</strong><br />

Memor<strong>and</strong>um <strong>and</strong> Articles of Association are submitted through either IPIM’s private<br />

notary, a lawyer registered in Macau, or a document written by the applicant <strong>and</strong> certified<br />

by a notary. <strong>The</strong> requirements for this stage are a notary contract or individual contract<br />

confirmed by a public or private notary according to the type of company <strong>and</strong> legal<br />

requirements in force. <strong>The</strong> registry of the company is done by the Commercial Registry<br />

Office (CRCBM). Required at this stage are a letter of application with a verified<br />

signature, company constitution document, list of names <strong>and</strong> shareholders <strong>and</strong> ID copies,<br />

list of names of the administrative board, letter of appointment of the administrative<br />

board <strong>and</strong> a copy of the Certificate of Admissibility of Trade Name. Finally, the fourth<br />

step is completed at Macau Finances Services Bureau (DSF). Required at this stage are<br />

an Industrial Tax Form (M1, 2 copies with a verified signature), a list of names of the<br />

shareholders <strong>and</strong> their ID copies, list of names <strong>and</strong> the letter of appointment of the<br />

administrative board, a certificate of registration issued by the CRCBM, a copy of the<br />

Memor<strong>and</strong>um <strong>and</strong> Articles of Association <strong>and</strong> payment of the Industrial Tax (Form M7).<br />

(IPIM)


15<br />

Intellectual property rights<br />

Since joining the World Trade Organization (WTO), China has followed the<br />

agreement to protect companies’ property. However, China has a large problem with<br />

counterfeit products entering the market. To protect a product properly, a company must<br />

register patents with China’s State Intellectual Property Office (http://www.sipo.gov.cn),<br />

<strong>and</strong> trademarks with the <strong>Chinese</strong> Trademark Office (found locally). Both systems are on<br />

a “first-file basis,” meaning the first to apply <strong>and</strong> provide evidence will receive the<br />

protection. Any party found guilty of violating laws related to intellectual property rights<br />

will be fined <strong>and</strong> may be further prosecuted depending on the severity of the violation<br />

(U.S. Department of Commerce International Trade Administration).<br />

Import controls<br />

<strong>The</strong> country has implemented import tariffs for all foreign cosmetics in<br />

accordance to the World Trade Organization st<strong>and</strong>ards. As previously stated, importing<br />

from <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> is an exception to this st<strong>and</strong>ard regardless of the country of origin. As<br />

of 2009, tariffs were lowered to 6.5% with an additional 15% for hair/nail care products.<br />

Any color product automatically obtains up to an additional 10% to the initial tariff<br />

(Pisacane). After all requirements have been met for importing cosmetics, the prices<br />

could be up to 50% more than the initial value of the products. As of June 2011, in order<br />

to reduce this large price increase which will in turn promote more sales in China, the<br />

tariffs will be reduced to 2%-15% (Dayang). CCC Certification is only for use on<br />

electrical products. This will not apply to cosmetics.<br />

<strong>Chinese</strong> Politics<br />

<strong>The</strong> People Republic of China or the PRC was founded in part to establish a more<br />

stable government. From the PRC four different constitutions have been formulated that<br />

have been adapted by the PRC in 1954, 1975, 1978 <strong>and</strong> 1982. <strong>The</strong> constitution that is<br />

currently active was adopted in 1982, but was amended four different times <strong>and</strong> most<br />

recently on March 14, 2004. <strong>The</strong> legislation power lies within <strong>The</strong> National People’s<br />

Congress (NPC) <strong>and</strong> its St<strong>and</strong>ing Committee. <strong>The</strong> NPC <strong>and</strong> its St<strong>and</strong>ing Committee are<br />

responsible for representing the people <strong>and</strong> all of the levels that are part of the<br />

Congresses in China. <strong>The</strong> NPC supervises all state-level institutions. Its primary power,<br />

however, is electing the President of China. China is made up of 23 provinces, five<br />

autonomous regions, four municipalities directly under the Central Government, <strong>and</strong> the<br />

special administrative regions of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> <strong>and</strong> Macau. <strong>The</strong> 23 provinces are Anhui,<br />

Fujian, Gansu, Guangdong, Guizhou, Hainan, Hebei, Heilongjiang, Henan, Hubei,<br />

Hunan, Jiangsu, Jiangxi, Jilin, Liaoning, Qinghai, Shaanxi, Sh<strong>and</strong>ong, Shanxi, Sichuan,<br />

Taiwan, Yunnan, Zhejiang; the five autonomous regions are Guangxi, Inner Mongolia,<br />

Ningxia, Xinjiang <strong>and</strong> Tibet; the four municipalities are Beijing, Chongqing, Shanghai<br />

<strong>and</strong> Tianjin (Politics).<br />

<strong>The</strong> current head of state is President Hu Jintao, who was elected on March 15,


2003. Hu Jintao is the general secretary of the Communist Part of China (CPC) <strong>and</strong> it is<br />

the countries only political party in power. Hu Jintao became the general secretary of the<br />

CPC at its 16 th National Congress in November of 2002. <strong>The</strong> CPC was founded in July<br />

1921. <strong>The</strong> CPC has over 70 million members <strong>and</strong> there are eight other political parties<br />

with a lot less support. <strong>The</strong> State Council makes up the administrative body. <strong>The</strong> State<br />

Council is the cabinet or chief administrative body of the PRC that includes the heads of<br />

all governmental agencies, which is headed by Premier Wen Jiabao. Another political<br />

party is the <strong>Chinese</strong> People Political Consultative Conference or the CPPCC. <strong>The</strong> CPPCC<br />

represents all ethnic groups, <strong>and</strong> different types of political <strong>and</strong> special interest groups.<br />

<strong>The</strong> CPPCC is also responsible for the supervision over the government as well as<br />

providing advice on social issues (Politics).<br />

16<br />

Regulations on <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Products in China:<br />

In the early 90’s China made a strong push concerning issues on quality of<br />

cosmetics products <strong>and</strong> other hygiene products. <strong>The</strong> Ministry of Health (MOH) of China<br />

that underlined strict regulations concerning the hygiene supervision of cosmetics issued<br />

decree No. 3 on November 13th, 1989 that took effect on January 1 st , 1990. <strong>The</strong> Decree<br />

was issued in order to strengthen hygiene supervision of cosmetics, ensure hygiene<br />

quality, safety of cosmetics, <strong>and</strong> most importantly to protect customers. <strong>Cosmetic</strong>s<br />

include any kind of daily used industrial chemical that is spread on the outside part of the<br />

human body, which may include skin, hairs, nails, lips, <strong>and</strong> etc. <strong>Cosmetic</strong>s must also be<br />

used for the purpose of cleaning, deodorizing, providing skin care, beauty <strong>and</strong> make-up,<br />

by way of smearing, spraying or other similar means.<br />

According to the Regulation, companies who plan to place cosmetics on <strong>Chinese</strong><br />

market must apply for <strong>and</strong> obtain hygiene license or record-keeping certificate from<br />

Health Administrative Department of the State Council - State Food <strong>and</strong> Drug<br />

Administration (SFDA). Foreign companies shall appoint a <strong>Chinese</strong> responsible agent to<br />

deal with registration <strong>and</strong> obtain such certificate. In addition, the Administrative<br />

Measures on Inspection <strong>and</strong> Quarantine of Import <strong>and</strong> Export of <strong>Cosmetic</strong>s requires that<br />

imported cosmetics pass the inspection of the General Administration of Quality<br />

Supervision, Inspection <strong>and</strong> Quarantine (AQSIQ) <strong>and</strong> must be affixed with a China<br />

Inspection <strong>and</strong> Quarantine(CIQ) label <strong>and</strong> <strong>Chinese</strong> label in according to the<br />

Administrative Rules for Labeling <strong>Cosmetic</strong>s.<br />

Type of Product Required SFDA<br />

License<br />

Ordinary cosmetics<br />

Record-keeping<br />

hair care, nail care, skin care, perfumes <strong>and</strong> make-up<br />

Certificate<br />

Special use cosmetics<br />

Hygiene License<br />

products for hair growth, hair dye, hair perm, hair removal,<br />

breast shaping, fitness, deodorizing, spots removal <strong>and</strong> sun block (More expensive <strong>and</strong><br />

time-consuming)<br />

New <strong>Cosmetic</strong> Ingredient Hygiene License


17<br />

Application of Hygiene License or Record-keeping Certificate<br />

<strong>The</strong> following documents are required for application of hygiene license or record<br />

keeping certificate:<br />

� Application form for license;<br />

� Product ingredients;<br />

� Effective components, evidence of use <strong>and</strong> inspection methods;<br />

� Manufacturing technique <strong>and</strong> diagram;<br />

� Product quality st<strong>and</strong>ard;<br />

� Testing report from a cosmetics testing institution approved by the SFDA <strong>and</strong><br />

related materials;<br />

� Product package (sales package & product label);<br />

� Certified document for production <strong>and</strong> sales in the manufacturing country<br />

(region);<br />

� <strong>The</strong> statement on related problems of ‘Mad Cow Disease’;(new)<br />

� Power of attorney, if responsible person has been appointed;<br />

� Some other documents that may be helpful for inspection;<br />

Testing Requirements<br />

According to the official implementation of the national st<strong>and</strong>ard: Procedures <strong>and</strong><br />

methods of safety evaluation for cosmetics (GB 7919-87), all testing items below are<br />

required for new cosmetics ingredients. For finished cosmetics, only some of the testing<br />

items below are required.<br />

� Physiochemical <strong>and</strong> microbiological testing;<br />

� Acute oral toxicity <strong>and</strong> acute dermal toxicity;<br />

� Acute dermal irritation <strong>and</strong> acute eye irritation;<br />

� Dermal sensitization;<br />

� Dermal photo-toxicity test & dermal photosensitivity;<br />

� Sub-chronic oral toxicity <strong>and</strong> dermal toxicity;<br />

� Teratogenicity test;<br />

� Mutagenicity test;<br />

� Chronic toxicity <strong>and</strong> carcinogenicity test;<br />

� Safety evaluation of using tests of cosmetics on human body;<br />

Labeling Requirements<br />

According to the official implementation of the national st<strong>and</strong>ard: Instruction for use of<br />

consumer products— general labeling for cosmetics (GB5296.3-2008), the following<br />

information, in <strong>Chinese</strong>, needs to appear on a label for cosmetics:


18<br />

� Product name;<br />

� Name <strong>and</strong> address of the manufacturer;<br />

� Net content;<br />

� Product ingredients;<br />

� Shelf life;<br />

� <strong>The</strong> code of manufacture license <strong>and</strong> product st<strong>and</strong>ard;<br />

� <strong>The</strong> code of hygiene license or record-keeping certificate;<br />

� Safety statement <strong>and</strong> guidance on uses;<br />

In case of imported cosmetics, country of origin <strong>and</strong> the name <strong>and</strong> address of the<br />

distributor in China shall also be given on the label. Besides, a CIQ label needs to be<br />

acquired from AQSIQ. An imported cosmetic with a CIQ label means it has already<br />

passed the examination of China Entry-Exit Inspection <strong>and</strong> Quarantine Bureau <strong>and</strong> is<br />

allowed to be sold in China. Consumers will check the CIQ label before purchasing<br />

imported cosmetics.<br />

How to Obtain A CIQ Label<br />

After hygiene license or record-keeping certificate has been issued, domestic importers<br />

will need those certificates to pass the inspection of AQSIQ when the goods are imported<br />

into China.<br />

<strong>The</strong> inspection work includes label auditing, sampling <strong>and</strong> check. <strong>The</strong> inspection<br />

authorities will charge at least 0.15% of the total value of goods as inspection fee. This<br />

process takes approximately 1 month.<br />

AQSIQ will issue the CIQ label for imported cosmetics when the following documents<br />

are provided:<br />

� Application form for labeling review for the import <strong>and</strong> export of cosmetics;<br />

� Business license or company registration certificate of the manufacturer or<br />

distributor;<br />

� 6 copies of label;<br />

� Product ingredients;<br />

� Certified evidence of usage for cosmetics with special functions;<br />

� Certified document for production <strong>and</strong> sales in the original manufacturing<br />

country;<br />

� Hygiene license or record-keep certificate;<br />

� Testing report for cosmetic products from AQSIQ;<br />

Advertising Regulations<br />

Men in China have created the largest single market in the world for male<br />

cosmetics. <strong>The</strong>se men want to look beautiful on the inside <strong>and</strong> the outside. Men feel that<br />

the more attractive they look, the higher chance of success they will have in the future<br />

(Li-chyun). Two of the giant cosmetic industries that are attracting <strong>Chinese</strong> men’s<br />

attention are L’Oreal <strong>and</strong> Beiersdorf. <strong>The</strong>se companies are spending large amounts of


money on advertising to attract the men in China (Men’s <strong>Cosmetic</strong>s Take off in China).<br />

Popular movie stars <strong>and</strong> models appear on billboards in China that advertise men’s<br />

cosmetics to the <strong>Chinese</strong> population. Advertisement agencies feel that cold <strong>and</strong> neutral<br />

colors are better to use because they reflect the impression about male stereotype as an<br />

individual. Male models tend to wear more clothing in advertisements, which shows that<br />

the advertisements are not used to embellish or enhance the product (Feng). <strong>The</strong> <strong>Chinese</strong><br />

advertising consists of both body <strong>and</strong> skin care products, which is one of the reason it<br />

attracts so many customers. Men are willing to pay any amount of money for these<br />

cosmetics because they think it is going to give them competitive advantage for their jobs<br />

<strong>and</strong> with girls. Advertisements are predicted to keep increasing in the future because<br />

sales of men’s cosmetics in China are growing more than double the rate for women’s<br />

(Balfour).<br />

When companies attempt to advertise their product to the <strong>Chinese</strong> men, they are<br />

faced with some laws <strong>and</strong> regulations. In order to advertise men’s cosmetics in China, a<br />

company must obtain a registration slip. A few contents that are prohibited from<br />

advertisements are the national flag <strong>and</strong> emblem, anything harmful to the environment<br />

<strong>and</strong> natural resources, <strong>and</strong> anything that may jeopardize social or public order (China<br />

Business News). Penalties will be awarded to any advertisements that violate these<br />

contents. Smaller penalties consist of a fine, but large penalties may lead to criminal<br />

liability. All of the advertisements must not contain false information. Having false<br />

information misleads consumers <strong>and</strong> can lead to penalties by the government (China<br />

Business News). Fortunately, this has not been a problem when dealing with men’s<br />

cosmetics in China.<br />

Not every city in China has the same laws <strong>and</strong> regulations when advertising<br />

men’s cosmetics. We researched two different cities in China confirming this. <strong>The</strong> two<br />

cities are <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Guangzhou</strong>. In <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, Chapter 456 Consumer Goods<br />

Safety Ordinance governs. This states that a person shall not supply, manufacture, or<br />

import consumer goods unless the consumer goods comply with the general safety<br />

requirement for consumer goods or the consumer goods must satisfy an approved<br />

st<strong>and</strong>ard if applicable (YU). On the other h<strong>and</strong>, <strong>Guangzhou</strong> is in accordance with the<br />

Regulations on Marked Prices of Advertising Services. Any advertising service that<br />

adjusts their service fees for advertisements must update these price details <strong>and</strong> keep <strong>and</strong><br />

keep a record. <strong>The</strong>y must also make an announcement three days before the new<br />

st<strong>and</strong>ards become effective (<strong>Guangzhou</strong>). Along with all of the other set laws <strong>and</strong><br />

regulations in China for advertising, these are a few that differ in certain cities in China.<br />

China has a large amount of men in their population to advertise their products to.<br />

Advertising agencies must be careful when promoting their product because there are<br />

cultural contexts that must be taken into consideration. Advertising campaigns can be<br />

effective if they convey the correct message. Before promoting a product, advertising<br />

agencies have to underst<strong>and</strong> what certain signs <strong>and</strong> symbols represent in the <strong>Chinese</strong><br />

culture. By doing this, certain strengths <strong>and</strong> weaknesses can be uncovered. For example,<br />

a motorcycle being advertised in the United States is viewed as freedom, adventure, <strong>and</strong><br />

speed. On the other h<strong>and</strong>, the <strong>Chinese</strong> view this as dangerous, noisy, <strong>and</strong> low status.<br />

Another great example is an advertisement illustrating an open l<strong>and</strong>scape. In the United<br />

States, people view this as independence <strong>and</strong> lifestyle. Conversely, <strong>Chinese</strong> citizens view<br />

the countryside as dirty <strong>and</strong> dusty (Labbr<strong>and</strong>). <strong>The</strong>se examples represent how American<br />

19


advertisements are translated differently into the <strong>Chinese</strong> culture. In order to convey the<br />

correct message to a <strong>Chinese</strong> man, advertisements must possess attributes like<br />

thoughtfulness, a sense of tradition, strong family values, a successful career, <strong>and</strong> a<br />

personal sense of peacefulness <strong>and</strong> harmony. Advertising campaigns must underst<strong>and</strong><br />

what is culturally accepted in the <strong>Chinese</strong> eyes. <strong>The</strong>y can accomplish this by conducting<br />

market research, which will help them figure out if their advertising campaigns will be<br />

successful or not (Labbr<strong>and</strong>).<br />

Conclusion<br />

To conclude, China’s cosmetic market for men is in its growth stage, <strong>and</strong> for<br />

those who can learn the ways of the culture <strong>and</strong> business practices in China, many<br />

potential gains will come from riding this industry wave to maturity. In Mainl<strong>and</strong> China,<br />

<strong>Guangzhou</strong> has turned out to be one of the main players in the cosmetic industry, despite<br />

not being as large or popular for Western businesses as cities such as Shanghai <strong>and</strong><br />

Beijing. China’s two special administrative regions, <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> <strong>and</strong> Macau, have few<br />

trade restrictions, making them ideal places for Western companies to use as a base for<br />

importing their products into China <strong>and</strong> then conducting business from there into the<br />

mainl<strong>and</strong>.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Chinese</strong> male market is partially this strong due to the fact that <strong>Chinese</strong> men<br />

are re-evaluating their priorities in the fast-paced competitive lifestyle they find<br />

themselves newly in. Now that completion for jobs <strong>and</strong> even wives is so high, men are<br />

doing everything possible to get an edge—including investing in their appearance. No<br />

longer are men who use cosmetics viewed as “unmanly”, rather they are just seen as<br />

ambitious people who want to get ahead in the new China.<br />

Fitting with a <strong>Chinese</strong> proverb, it must be said that nothing this great comes<br />

without hard work. For companies who want to invest in their future in the <strong>Chinese</strong> male<br />

cosmetics market, much research needs to be done, in order for China’s many rules <strong>and</strong><br />

regulations to be adhered. We hope that this paper has enabled some clarification <strong>and</strong><br />

helpful suggestions as to those regulations. <strong>Market</strong> research must also be carefully<br />

conducted as more <strong>and</strong> more companies seek <strong>Chinese</strong> consumers for their male<br />

cosmetics. Having a product that will appeal to the target market is essential in any<br />

country, <strong>and</strong> perhaps even more so in China, where it seems that everything is available,<br />

<strong>and</strong> everything has a cheaper counter-part. Again, we hope that this paper has provided<br />

some relevant insights into the <strong>Chinese</strong> market.<br />

In going forward we only suggest that companies start investing in China now:<br />

relationships must be built <strong>and</strong> there is no time like the present for that. Now that China’s<br />

men’s cosmetics market is just beginning its boom, Western companies can benefit from<br />

being first to develop long lasting business relationships that will endure later entrants to<br />

the market.<br />

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