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4/16/09 - www.westcountygazette.com - Sonoma County Gazette

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Wine Banterby dick starr djstarre@sbcglobal.netCheers!Russian River VineyardsPaired with a befitting fare, awell crafted Chardonnay can leapto the front of the grape pack tostrut in full dress garb. And that’sexactly what recently happened atForestville’s Russian River Vineyardsnew restaurant, Corks. Russian RiverVineyards is one of only two wineriesin Sonoma County that has a permitapproving a full service restauranton location with the winery. Theother one, which I reviewed last year,is Francis Ford Coppola’s Rosso &Bianco. And, there are only three othersimilar permits in California.The winery and restaurant located at5700 Gravenstein Highway is presentlyunder the luminous stewardship ofChris O’Neill, Barbara Sattler, andSonoma County’s “Pasta King” ArtIbleto. The property is undergoingextensive renovation under theirtutelage with an eye towards organic,sustainable, and “green” farming. Dryfarming has already been establishedin a section of their estate.Greg Hallinan, owner of Stella’s Caféat Topolos which closed last summer,continues to create gastronomic magicwhile Sommelier Debra Del Fiorentinoprovides valuable pairing suggestions.Assistant wine maker GiovanniBalistreri recently choreographed asplendid dining and wine experience.During this visit, I was joined byWest County Gazette’s food columnistCarolyn Horan, a delightful diningcompanion who also addresses herdining experience in this issue. TheCorks crew assembled a lusciousepicurean presentation: Miso crustedsalmon ably supported by a crispysomen noodle cake, wasabi butter,shoyn and ginger.The recommended wine pairedwith the appetizers and main coursewas Russian River Vineyards ’07Chardonnay, gently and affectionatelyembraced by new French oak forfour months. While malolacticfermentation was permitted, a fruitforward authority rendered thisgolden nectar food friendly. Palateand aroma impressions were pear,citrus, apple, and melon. In addition,the Chardonnay was well balancedbetween acid, alcohol, and fruit.Dessert consisted of homemade cherrymerlot ice cream with a reductionmerlot sauce. The latter was pairedwith a delightfully dry farmed ’07100% estate Merlot. The courses pairedimpeccably with the correct grapebrought a smile to my palate.A Brief Chardonnay ProfferIn some quarters, it was thought thatChardonnay’s origin had a MiddleEastern pedigree, but UC Davis, usingDNA profiling, determined that it wasa cross between Pinot and an obscureCroatian grape, Gouais Blanc. Anyway,the classic Chardonnay grape has longestablished its home in the Frenchregion of Burgundy.While Chardonnay takes onmany faces, oak and full malolacticfermentation is not generally partof the crafting process in Chablis,Burgundy as well as other Chardonnayproducing countries like Australia,New Zealand, Canada (NiagaraPeninsular), Argentina, Chile, SouthAfrica, and Italy.It was California that popularized abuttery note to the wine by convertingthe naturally occurring malic acid tothe softer lactic acid. This malolacticconversion is sometimes referred toas a secondary fermentation and isachieved by introducing lactic bacteriato the must soon after alcoholicfermentation has started. Correctlyexecuted, its effect is to reduce acidity,add flavor, and complexity. Care mustbe taken in the process to not overproduce the buttery-smelling diacetyl,a by-product in the fermentation.The trend of recent years has been toreturn Chardonnay back to its roots,crisp and fruity. Other influencesthat can affect the finished wine arebarrel fermentation, lees stirring andaging, and oak aging. Maloed or not,Chardonnay is generally characterizedas rich, complex, and with a depth offlavor. California plantings began inearnest in the early 1970s. The RussianRiver Valley appellation is generallyrecognized as producing some of theworld’s finest Chardonnays.A fruity, crispy Chardonnay thathasn’t succumbed to the secondfermentation is easier to pair andsimilar to Pinot Noir, both complementsveal, chicken with a white sauce,salmon, pizza (try a chicken/garlicpizza with a white sauce), and pastadishes in white sauce, shellfish, lamb,goat cheese, Gruyere, Provolone, andBrie. It is an easy wine to experimentwith, especially anything with garlicand recipes with a cream base.The Russian River appellationprovides a textural enhancement thatcan only be found where the morningriver fog ameliorates afternoontemperatures so that fruit maturity isachieved without loss of depth andsuppleness.4/16/09 - www.westcountygazette.com - 21

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