One Smile Magazine Issue 18

N.B. If you have a phobia about chickens Rarotongamay not be the place for you.These two legged tyrants are very much part ofthe rich fabric of Cook Island culture, and their sonicsounds resonate across the island day and night.Fortunately I am a PFF (phobia free female) andquickly adapted to the raucous ‘cock a doodle do’s’of the island’s rampaging roosters. I became adept atrecognizing different calls in the wee small hours, andthe amusing attempts of the younger fraternity tomaster the art of crowing like their cocky elders. Mytolerance towards these fabulously feathered critters,was tested to the max one morning at breakfast,when a chicken swooped to launch a vicous attack onmy muffin! Not an experience for the faint hearted. Atthe time I was in a deep and meaningful conversationwith fellow guests, regaling them with the joys ofgetting up close and personal with a pouting pufferfish while out snorkeling.The next day we cycled off early after a wake updip in the lagoon, and a troppo brekkie of tropicalfruits and the crowd favourite coconut muffins.Keen to continue our adventures we followed a signsaying ‘Art’, down a drive edged with hedgerows ofhibiscus flowers to arrive at Ani’s studio and gallery.An established artist, Ani was proud to share withus legends of her homeland and the meanings oftraditional Pacific Island symbols which are an integralpart of her distinctive work.“This means ‘ tell a story and pass it on’ she saidskillfully sketching a bold geometric pattern. Ani theninsisted I have one of her artworks as a gift, with oneproviso. I return to Rarotonga and bring back one ofmy own paintings for her.Her warmth and generosity typified the friendlylocals we met while bouncing around the island onour bicycles. I could have whiled away the hours butit’s not all about me!. My cycle was calling(along withthe right hand man ) and our sole daily rendezvous -Happy Hour at a beachfront bar that made a dreamycocktail aptly named the ’ Coconut drifter’.The day finally dawned when I ventured off aloneon my bicycle ( the right hand man and I needed alittle space). Being an inherently curious person(I havenever taken heed of my Nana’s words ‘ curiousity killedthe cat’ ) I pedalled inland to check out what was justaround that next corner. I needed no encouragementto follow a billboard advertising ‘ ukuleles for sale’ atthe local prison. After navigating my way cautiouslyalong a pot holed track, I had arrived at the frontsteps of the run down establishment. The ‘prison’ wasdeserted apart from the odd reclining resident lurkingbehind a rickety barbed wire fence. I tentativelyapproached the Shop and peered in to find a loneukulele propped up on a shelf in an otherwise emptyroom.“Do you make any thing else here… jewellery …..earrings .. m..maybe” I nervously asked a man whosuddenly appeared from behind a curtained doorway.“ I tell you what we’ll have your ear and make yousome earrings” he said with a Gummy grin. With anervous giggle I hurriedly said my goodbyes and wasout of there in a flash. Which is saying somethingfor me. My lime green machine rose to the occasion,and stood up to the rigorous race down hill. With myNana’s wise words ringing in my ears I headed for theclosest white sand beach and sought solace at a caféthat served the most delectable mango smoothiesthis side of the rolling reef. A lagoon side stall sellingscreenprinted pareu (sarongs) the colours of thedreamy island sunsets, caught my eye and I just hadto stop for a little retail therapy. Local woman Teriwas busy demonstrating this traditional craft whichhad been passed on down through the generations ofher family. I selected a pareu or three, smug in theknowledge that I had managed to finish my cyclingadventures in Rarotonga with a some shopping islandstyle, and survived to tell the tale about my ‘ earry’encounter.During my bike rides about the island, I had withreference to the words of literary great Robert LouisStevenson ‘ found the best and met a few honestfriends’ , including those of the feathered and finnedvariety. My time in Rarotonga has left me eager toreturn to reconnect with them, inspired my artisticself and prompted me to consider upgrading to amountain bike, so I may travel faster, higher andfurther into the wonder and ‘ wilderness of theworld’.One Smile Magazine www.onesmile.co 31