Picture - Ensemble Vacations Magazine

We left the windsurfer town of Paia and drove along the
‘highway to heaven,’ as the locals describe the Hana Highway,
on Route 36, preparing to see some of the most awesome
panoramic vistas in the world. Route 36 is considered one of
America’s most scenic drives, so set aside plenty of time despite
the 53-mile trip and leave early so that you can admire the view
from the countless lookout points.
Throughout the drive, groves of African tulip trees,
mahogany and guava hugged the mountain slopes, interspersed
with prehistoric lava protrusions from which freshwater
streams cascaded over the cliff tops. For company we played
“Soft-Hearted Hana” by the late George Harrison, who lived
in his own secluded paradise off the Hana Highway at Nahiku.
For our eco-retreat, our temporary abode was a restored
cottage overlooking Hana Bay, a leftover from the sugar
plantation days. Now part of the exclusive Hotel Hana-Maui,
this privately owned property offers an assortment of
complimentary daily activities and guests have access to the
steam room, outdoor hot tub and cold plunge pool at the
hotel’s Honua Spa.
Up at the crack of dawn, it was over to the Wellness Center
pavilion for a morning yoga session, followed by horseback
riding. Jolene was our local guide as well as guide to the stars.
“You know, Oprah Winfrey bought 102 acres and today you are
riding on her land,” she quips and adds how she recently had the
pleasure of taking Britney Spears, Woody Harrelson and Kate
Hudson horseback riding.
Our celebrity wrangler takes us past a herd of cows grazing
beneath banyan trees while the surf crashes onto the sharp lava
rocks ahead.
Remembering Lori’s mysterious love story about the naupaka,
Stephen and I decided to consult Jolene. “Oh, the naupaka,” she
says with a smile. “These are half-shaped white flowers that
relate to a Hawaiian legend. A princess in the mountains fell in
love with a common fisherman. Her father disapproved and as
she was leaving her lover, she tore a flower symbolizing her
infinite love and gave him half. Next time you’re by the ocean,
watch for these incomplete white half-flowers facing down; while
in the mountains, watch for naupakas whose half-flowers face
up toward the sky. The two half-flowers represent love when
joined together. Yet the two have never met.”
The next morning, we headed upcountry to Haleakala
National Park in search of this elusive native flower. As we
negotiated the severe switchbacks, sans guardrails, the road
suddenly narrowed to one lane. After about 11 miles from Hana
the park finally appeared. At the ranger’s office we checked on
weather conditions and things looked good. Haleakala, which
means ‘rising sun,’ is notorious for quick and steady rainfall,
so it’s always advisable to check at the ranger’s office on trail
closures and weather forecasts.
Armed with insect repellent, hiking shoes, bottled water
and a bagged lunch, off we went into the thick of the two-mile
Pipiwai Trail, one of the best trails on Maui. Abundant
waterfalls, streams and tropical flora and fauna all add to
this isolated paradise.
We ascended a dirt path toward Makahiku Falls, an
ancient volcanic outcropping hurling a 200-foot torrent of white
water over its edge into a lush green valley. “That’s nothing.
Wait until you get to the 400-foot Waimoku Falls,” explains
a fellow hiker.
Passing an ancient banyan tree, we trekked onward, teetering
at times between the rocky inclines, hiking by more mountain
streams and feeling the effects of higher altitudes. The Pipiwai
Trail gains 650 feet in elevation.
In the distance, a hollow clanking sound was amplified the
closer we got. A mysterious bamboo alley was studded with
towering bamboos that swayed ominously. “Geesh, I don’t know if
I want to keep going,” I murmured as the thick canopy blanketed
the sunlight above. “Sure you do,” Stephen said, taking the lead.
Deeper into this bamboo forest we trudged and then it was
over. The bamboos were replaced by a rocky stream. We jumped
on the rocks and made it to the other side. Ahead, the Waimoku
Falls towered in all their glory, and lodged in a crack between
the basaltic rock a hearty bush presented white half-flowers.
The fleeting mountain naupaka was home. “To Hana with love,”
I thought. nV
(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) OLD SURFBOARDS ADORN
THE ROADSIDE; PURPLE PROTEA; THE ROAD TO HANA;
A NAUPAKA FLOWER; WAIMOKU FALLS.
ENSEMBLE VACATIONS FALL 2009
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