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to the border of Colombia in the east. There are some 400 islands along the coast, most of them no more than 10 kilometres from the mainland. To use an age-old travel cliché, these islands are truly ‘picture postcard’ scenic – and indeed, they have graced the covers of many prestigious travel publications over the years. As well – sailors take note – Cruising World and Le Monde Voyage have declared this area one of the top two “best cruising destinations in the world.” This is the Caribbean as you want it to be: unspoiled, unhurried, natural and relaxed. The Kuna Indians have controlled the islands since the 1920s (they have two official representatives in the Panamanian legislature) and their culture is predominant throughout both the islands and the eastern mainland territory. This is one place where the souvenirs – including headscarves of colourful prints and ornate and distinctive bracelets – are truly indigenous, made by the people in the villages. You won’t find any ‘made in China’ stickers here. The truly authentic gift to purchase is the ‘mola,’ a traditional Kuna handicraft made of brightly-coloured squares of cotton fabric. This can be worn – it is similar to a blouse – but many find it hangs nicely on a wall. The accommodations are mainly simple huts of bamboo and thatched roofs with basic amenities, although there are some new and fancier digs, such as the Sapibenega Kuna Lodge and Coral Lodge, on the coast itself. I recommend the Kuanidup Island Lodge (on the island of Kuanidup), with its basic and island-perfect accommodation in eight straw huts; sand floors and hammocks are both included at no extra cost. Regular beds are also available. It’s a half-hour canoe trip – in a dugout canoe, by the way – from the coastal city of Rio Sidra. The service is personal and unique; just ask for your own coconut. You can choose from approximately 100 coconut trees during the three minutes it takes to stroll around the island. Some of the destinations you might want to put on the list for your San Blás getaway include El Porvenir, Nalunega, Wichub-Walá (for the name alone) or Isla Pino. Whichever island you choose, don’t expect discos or nightlife – or much daylife, for that matter. These are places to chill out and relax, bring some books, go for long walks (or short walks, depending on the island), take naps, get a suntan, go snorkelling or just take the time to smell the roses. Or in this case, count the grains of sand on your personal beach. To get to the San Blás Islands, you first have to get to Panama City. From there you can take one of the daily island flights offered by Aeroperlas or Air Panama. The Republic of Panama itself is an isthmus that forms a land bridge connecting North and South America. The country shares a border with Costa Rica to the west and Colombia to the east. It also controls the Panama Canal, one of the most important shipping routes in the world, allowing ships to travel between two oceans. A Spanish colony for 300 years since the early 1500s, Panama later became a territory controlled by Colombia. However, Panama fought for its independence and, with assistance from the United States government, established itself in 1903 as a sovereign state. With a generous 2,988 kilometres of coastline, Panama borders two oceans. You can look out at the Caribbean Sea over a leisurely breakfast of eggs and fresh mango, papaya and sugar cane juice, and then enjoy a lunch of meat, rice and beans, salad and more fresh fruit at a restaurant overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Some parts of the country are only 70 kilometres wide. In a week, you can relax on a deserted island or hike mountainous passes, wine and dine in a modern city with full amenities or discover historic UNESCO sites of ancient Spanish ruins. And, of course, explore the Panama Canal: one of the greatest feats of engineering in the world, built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers between 1904 and 1914. Now is a good time to visit Panama and watch the massive excavation to widen the canal. This historic work is scheduled to be completed in 2014 and will double the width of the waterway. ©PHOTOLATINO / SIME 42 ENSEMBLE VACATIONS FALL 2009
PANAMA BY THE NUMBERS Government: constitutional democracy Capital: Panama City Official language: Spanish Other languages: English, Kuna and 14 others Monetary unit: 1 balboa = $1 U.S. (U.S. dollar is also used) Electricity: 120 volts 60 Hz ATM: countrywide (but not many in lesser-populated areas) Tax: 10% added to all hotel bills; 5% added to all non-food items Time zone: GMT minus 5 hours International dialing code: +507 So why don’t more people know about this country? Likely because the political overtones of the past half-century have overshadowed any thoughts of tourism. A military government first took control in 1968 and although it was repressive, people still continued with their everyday lives. It wasn’t until General Manuel Noriega took power in 1981 that Panama made headlines around the world for its repression and human rights violations. Also, as we now know, the general used the country as his own personal bank and invited many notorious drug lords to do business there. However, U.S. President George H.W. Bush ordered U.S. troops into the country in 1989 (in part) “to assist the Panamanian people in restoring democracy.” For many years after – though governments have been democratically elected for the past 20 years – the legacy of Noriega, currently being held in a Florida prison, still hung over the country. But all that is rapidly changing. Today Panama is ready to welcome tourists on a global scale. Cruise ships dock at Panamanian ports; ‘birders’ flock to experience an unprecedented 900 species in the parks and forests; scuba and snorkelling enthusiasts are discovering some of the finest Caribbean coral and reef fish on the Atlantic side while whale watchers gather on the Pacific side. Oh, and there are also 1,518 islands for you to discover. The outdoorsman/woman will find a naturalist’s paradise in Panama, with a full range of activities including hiking, horseback riding, fishing (try the Gulf of Chiriqui), boating, white water rafting (the country has 488 rivers), rock climbing and, after all this exertion, relaxing in the thermal hot springs in Volcán Barú. As for more urban activities, Panama City especially – but also smaller centres such as Colón, David and Gamboa – boasts all the big city pleasures you could desire. Bars and restaurants, theatres and cinemas, live bands and concert halls, art galleries and shopping, local markets and craft stores. Try the Calle Uruguay district for nightlife in Panama City. Dining is also exceptional – try a feast of beef, chicken, fish with rice and beans, colourful salads of beet, carrot or cabbage, potatoes and pasta and, of course, fresh fruits like mango, papaya and passion fruit. Yet the price may only be about $10 a person. Stick to the local wine and do try the national beers, Balboa and Atlas. Finally, as you relax and digest your meal, order some world-famous Panama coffee while you enjoy the mild evening temperatures, watching the brilliant sunset over one ocean or another. In Panama, the choice is yours. Maybe it’s time to broaden your travel horizons and discover something new. New – yet so near. nV ENSEMBLE VACATIONS FALL 2009 43
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Page 16 and 17: A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Serenity n
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Page 21 and 22: DETOURS Trends: Style Notes Made in
Page 23 and 24: DETOURS Packing List New and notabl
Page 25 and 26: DETOURS Havana’s High Five Here a
Page 27 and 28: Save $600 per couple on 2010 South
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Page 31 and 32: chilled towels and frosty libations
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Page 35 and 36: We left the windsurfer town of Paia
Page 37 and 38: IMAGE COURTESY OF ANTIGUA & BARBUDA
Page 39 and 40: LIVE EVENTS 2009/2010 Antigua - De
Page 41 and 42: In early December, the Immaculate C
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Page 47 and 48: ONIAN our eagle-eyed driver helped
Page 49 and 50: Healthy Body, Healthy Mind
Page 51 and 52: Restoring Body and Soul Palladium R
Page 53 and 54: You’ll love Israel from the first
Page 55 and 56: Sandy Lane Hotel in Barbados has be
Page 57: Jamaican Triple Treat ANITA DRAYCOT
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Page 66 and 67: INTERVIEW Numero Uno LORENA’S GOL
Page 68 and 69: THINGS TO DO Trends: Luxury Volunto
Page 72 and 73: GRAVITAS QUOTIENT David Rocco Host
Page 74 and 75: PLACE TO BE Hot Nights, Cool Sounds
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