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Picture - Ensemble Vacations Magazine

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IMAGE COURTESY OF ANTIGUA & BARBUDA TOURIST OFFICE<br />

Caribbean music is joyful,<br />

passionate and as varied as<br />

the islands themselves<br />

EVERY SOFT, WARM BREEZE IN<br />

THE CARIBBEAN SEEMS TO PULSE<br />

WITH MUSIC. In Jamaica, the slow<br />

and steady bass beats of reggae fill the air.<br />

The lively Afro-Spanish sounds of son can<br />

be heard in Cuba, and in Trinidad and<br />

Tobago, people enjoy the percussive<br />

bell-like tones of steel pan calypso music.<br />

There are many rhythms and blends<br />

of music gracing the islands, including<br />

merengue, salsa, ska, dancehall, reggaeton,<br />

compas, zouk and soca. All are played<br />

with fierce passion and are rooted in<br />

African drumbeats, brought to the<br />

Caribbean by slaves in the 1800s.<br />

On a recent trip to Port of Spain<br />

in Trinidad, I heard calypso piped in<br />

everywhere, from the airport to hotels,<br />

restaurants and bars. It made me hungry<br />

to hear a live band. Walking along<br />

Tragarete Road in the western part of<br />

the city, a mélange of metallic crescendos<br />

caught my ear. Searching for its source,<br />

I came upon the practice yard of the Silver<br />

Stars, a local steel band. Approximately<br />

60 players were standing in front of a<br />

multitude of steel drums, mallets deftly<br />

teasing notes from the pans. They told<br />

me they were practising for Panorama,<br />

Trinidad’s world-renowned steel band<br />

competition that takes place in February,<br />

during Carnival. Scooting into a seat on<br />

the yard’s sidelines, I settled in for a<br />

glorious evening of music. Later, I learned<br />

the Silver Stars won their first large band<br />

championship at Panorama, taking home<br />

the $1 million TTD ($160,000 US) purse.<br />

Calypso was originally a form of protest<br />

music. African slaves were not allowed to<br />

talk while they worked, but they could<br />

sing. Song leaders improvised words in<br />

order to comment on the news of the day.<br />

“The Banana Boat Song (Day-O)” by<br />

Harry Belafonte, popular in the United<br />

States in the 1950s, is an example of the<br />

call-and-response form used in work<br />

songs. The government banned skin<br />

drums in 1884, so inventive Calypsonians<br />

made percussion instruments from<br />

bamboo and created what was known<br />

as tamboo bamboo bands. These were<br />

banned too, and players were left with<br />

stringed instruments, maracas, and<br />

bottles and spoons. In the 1930s they<br />

began to make drums out of metal<br />

shipping containers, paint cans and<br />

garbage cans. By the 1940s they were<br />

using 55-gallon oil drums, which are<br />

still used today. The pan, or drumming<br />

surface, is made of sheet metal stretched<br />

into a bowl-like shape with note patterns<br />

moulded onto the surface. Pans back the<br />

calypso singer, whose lyrics often poke<br />

fun at the rich and powerful.<br />

ENSEMBLE VACATIONS FALL 2009<br />

35

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