Ajanta & Ellora

www.kunzum.com
Issue 7 | April 2012
T R A V E L M A G
Ajanta & Ellora
Go to Aurangabad even before you go to Agra -
some of the most astounding man-made
structures await.

The Kunzum Travel
Mag is back!
Ok, so we took a break. There
were no editions of the Kunzum
Travel Mag for three months
starting January 2012. Not a
good start to the new year. We
could come up with excuses -
but let’s focus on the good news
instead.
January was a special month
for Kunzum and me personally - we came out with three
books almost simultaneously. The much awaited Delhi
101, a book I loved putting together, saw the light of
the day. What’s it about? It’s a pictorial travelogue across
one of the most amazing cities in the world for travellers.
The journey across Delhi can only be endless; this book
covers 101 surprising ways to discover the city.
And then the print version of the Kunzum Travel List
1-25 came out; the digital version was published in late
2011. The first in a series, each volume explores 25 great
holiday ideas. This includes landscapes, events, cities,
toy trains, great drives and more. The better news? The
second volume goes into print as I write this editorial.
I also published a non-travel book, a self help book titled
Don’t Feel Stupid at 60. It is a light-hearted illustrated
take on the kind of life we all need to lead - so we don’t
feel, as the title suggests, stupid when he look back at
life on our sixtieth. Of course, an important tip in the
book is about traveling at every opportunity.
Our journeys at Kunzum continue. Join us.
Contents
07 Maharashtra:
> The Caves of Ajanta and Ellora
23 Uttar pradesh:
> Chambal Wildlife Sanctuary
40 Delhi:
> Sunday Book Bazaar
> A Cure for all Sexual Problems
45 Hotel Reviews:
> Reni Pani Jungle Lodge, Satpura
National Park, Madhya Pradesh
> The Sarai at Toria, Panna Tiger Reserve,
Madhya Pradesh
54 Books:
> A Classic Travel Reading List
57 Stuff:
> Sketch Feature
> Travel Pix
Team Kunzum
CTO (Chief Travelling Officer): Ajay Jain
- He also hogs the driver’s seat
CEO (Chief Editorial Officer): Anubhuti Rana
- Prefers being on the passenger seat on the highways
CDO (Chief Design Officer): Supreet J Bargi
- Also Chief Desk Officer, that’s where he is stuck when
others travel
Everything Officer: Samridhi Minocha
- Has to put on all shoes, having fun doing so
Team getting bigger as we write
this - meet them next month : )
*Unless mentioned, all articles and photographs in this issue are by Ajay Jain
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The entrance to the Kailasa Temple, or Cave 16, in Ellora
Ajanta & Ellora
Go to Aurangabad even before you visit Agra
Astounding! This is the only expression I could think of to describe the
caves at Ajanta and Ellora around Aurangabad in Maharashtra. These
could only have been the works of those with special skills, an extraordinary
sense of art and possibly some supernatural powers. The Taj
Mahal should gracefully admit it is not the greatest monument built in
India. Get set to be overwhelmed when you tour the caves of Ajanta
and Ellora. What you get here is just a peek; even a tome cannot do
justice to these wonders.

Ajanta
What may have been bad news for a tiger
turned out to be a good one for the world.
Two British officers out hunting for the big cat
stumbled upon the rock-cut caves of Ajanta
in 1819, lying in obscurity for centuries. Travellers
and historians have been richer for it
ever since.
The handiwork of Buddhists, the caves were
carved into a semi-circular steep rocky face,
about 250 feet (76 metres) high, overlooking
a narrow gorge with the Waghora stream
flowing through it. Five of the caves here
served as chaitya-grihas (sanctuary) while another
25 as viharas (monasteries). The caves
are now connected by a terraced path which
is a later development; originally, all had individual
steps leading to the stream below.
These steps have all but disappeared now.
The caves had come up between the second
century B.C. and the seventh century A.D.,
with no known patrons.
The surviving mural paintings have established
themselves as popular icons in their
own right, inspiring many a modern artist.
These overshadow the sculptures, no less
impressive. The theme of the paintings are
mostly religious depicting the Buddha and incidents
from His life, Bodhisattvas and the Jatakas
presenting tales of the previous births
of Gautama Buddha. The painting on the ceilings
are mostly decorative in nature though.
Let the images speak for themselves.

Cave 4 is the largest monastery in Ajanta, but it was never completed.
The shrine itself has a colossal image of the Buddha in a teaching
position. The walls of the antechamber are also carved with six gigantic
figures of Buddha, each in a standing position. Two are unfinished;
the right hand of each is shown in the abhayamudra position while
the left is holding the hem of a garment. This cave was built in the
first half of the 6 th century A.D.
The how of rock-cut architecture
The creation of something like the caves at Ajanta was no mean task. Work would start with marking outlines,
and finishing the ceilings first. Work then moved downwards, cutting deep alleys with sharp and heavy instruments
like the pickaxe. This was followed by the breaking of the intervening ridges, leaving solid blocks for pillars
where necessary. The floor was taken care of last. The finishing and carving was executed using hammer and
chisel. After the façade of the verandah, workers went deep into the interiors, attending to the hall first and then
the antechamber, shrine or cells as planned. All in all, it was a job requiring delicate handling, precision and extreme
care. And skills and creativity we cannot imagine anyone possessing in modern times.

Cave 26, dated around 6-7th centuries A.D., is a chaitya-griha with an imposing façade, a spacious
forecourt, a pillared verandah with two side porches and an apsidal hall. A monolith stupa within is the
main object of worship here; it is marked with intricate carvings and a figure of the Buddha.
A reclining Buddha on the verge of attaining Nirvana depicted in Cave 26. The figures below are
those of his followers in mourning.

A Bodhisattva on the wall flanking the entry to the antechamber of Cave 1

Cave 24 is incomplete but it is the second largest monastery after Cave 4. It may have been built in the 7th century
A.D. The pillars are lavishly carved, as are the door and window frames.

Known as Ramesvara and dedicated to Lord Shiva, Cave 21 boasts exquisite architectural details and
sculptures even if many of the elements have got eroded. You are welcomed with a statue of Nandi bull
on a pedestal decorated with figures of Gods and Goddesses in the courtyard.
Ellora
The signature cave at Ellora is the monolithic
Kailasa temple, numbered 16 in the series, and
named after the mountain abode of Hindu God
Shiva. The massive structure was hewn from
a mass of rock obtained by cutting three big
trenches in the three sides of a hill. It is estimated
this temple demanded labour across 10 generations,
the work taking 200 years to complete. It
comprises a main shrine, another shrine for the
Nandi bull, a wagon shaped gopuram or main
entrance and a 16-pillared mandapa or main
hall - the last three connected by stone bridges.
The complex is full of ornate sculptures of deities,
amorous couples and friezes of scenes from
the epics besides floral, faunal and geometrical
designs. Carving any one of the elements of this
temple would have been a feat; it boggles the
mind imagining anyone daring to carve a mammoth,
heavily sculptured structure in one piece.
That’s Ellora for you, also called Verul and Elura;
these are all corruptions of its ancient name
of Elapura. These caves celebrate the achievements
of three major religions of India: Jainism,
Buddhism and Hinduism. Their patrons and even
their age are guesstimates at best; these may
have been built between the 6th and 10th centuries
A.D. Ellora’s wealth lies in both its architecture
and sculptures. Go explore, without being
rushed.

A dhvajastambha, a well finished cubical column marking the beginning
of the courtyard of the Kailasa temple.
Sculptures in an enclosure in the Kailasa temple.

Cave 29 is locally known as ‘dumar-lena’ or ‘sita-ki-nahani’
after a figure of river Goddess Yamuna was mistaken for that
of Lord Rama’s wife, Sita. It has three entrances facing the
north, south and west - flanked by guardian lions and elephants.
The cave temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. During
the monsoons, water cascades down the eastern wall, making for
a beautiful waterfall.

A panel in Cave 29 representing the marriages of Lord Shiva with Parvati
Lord Shiva and Parvati playing dice, with the lower panel depicting a
statue of Nandi bull

Cave 32, known as Indra-sabha, is
the most interesting of all Jain caves.
The courtyard has a monolithic mandapa
or hall with a quadruple image
of Jain Lord Mahavira. Flanking it are
the recently restored manastambha, a
pillar topped with four Brahma-Yaksha
figures facing the four cardinal
directions. A monolithic elephant stands
guard to the right of the courtyard.
The main cave is two-tiered.
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Locally known as Visvakarma, Buddhist Cave 10 is the only chaitya hall, or a sanctuary with a stupa.
A double storied structure, it has a beautifully carved façade and a music gallery to provide background
music to monks chanting their prayers below.
Aurangabad- Travel Tips
Accommodation : Aurangabad has many
hotels of all quality levels. It is best to make
your base here to explore the attractions
around.
Best time to go : October to February.
It can be very hot in the summers and wet
during the monsoons. Not the best of time to
walk on superheated or slippery rocky surfaces.
Try to reach the caves early morning to
beat the crowds, and the see the structures
come alive with the rising sun.
Getting there : Aurangabad is well connected
by air, road and train. Ellora is about
29 kms (18 miles) and Ajanta is about 105 kms
(66 miles) from Aurangabad.
Siddhayika, the Goddess of Wealth and Prosperity,
in Cave 32
* Give yourself a full day each for Ajanta and
Ellora, and another day for other caves and
buildings.

The imposing apsidal chaitya hall in Cave 10 has 30 pillars and an elaborate stupa in the
rear. A huge figure of a preaching Buddha flanked by two Bodhisatvvas is carved in front
of the stupa. The vaulted roof is ornamentally supported by naga ribs.

Chambal Wildlife Sanctuary, Utter Pradesh
Chambal has always been infamous for being home to some of
the most notorious dacoits living within its ravines, and the image
has not changed even as the gun-toting outlaws striking fear on
horseback are mostly in the past tense. What awaits instead is one
of the most beautiful birding and animal reserves in and around
the pristine Chambal river. And, surprise surprise, it is just over
an hour away from India’s most famous touristic address: the
Taj Mahal.

Cruising Down the River
The highlight of the visit is a cruise on the Chambal
river. The waters are blue and clean, the air
is fresh, and the silence overwhelming - all precious
and much sought after commodities for city
dwellers. The soft purring of your motorboat, the
clicking of your camera and the chirping of birds
are all that you will hear.
The last mile to the river takes you through the
infamous ravines, and you cannot help but wonder
how anyone could live in what look like endless
gigantic anthills; it also explains why the cops
had such a tough time chasing those who chose
to disappear amongst the labyrinth. Park your
car on the banks of the river and hop into your
waiting boat. Safaris usually last half a day; you
can pick from one starting at sunrise or ending
at sunset.
Your ride takes you through the protected area
under the National Chambal Sanctuary, spread
across 1,235 square kms (477 square miles)
along the 400 kms (250 miles) of the Chambal
river flowing from Kota in Rajasthan and further
into the states of Madhya Pradesh and Uttar
Pradesh. Your cruise will be in the portion of the
river forming a natural boundary between MP
and UP.

The spotting begins almost as soon as you are in
the water. The Gharials (Gavialis gangeticus), distinguished
with their long slender snouts, and the
chunkier Mugger Crocodiles (Crocodylus palustris) or
Marsh Crocodiles love their sun. When you see these
animals for the first time, you cannot be faulted for
regarding them as inanimate objects. Get closer, and
they suddenly find a life within and slink into the
water. No Hollywood flick style attacks happen; the
otherwise ferocious animals choose to stay clear of
humans unless provoked unnecessarily. These reptiles
are supposedly to be seen by the scores or even
hundreds in March when the water levels have further
fallen.
And then I saw the turtles - small sized ones and even
smaller babies. Basking in the sun on rocks, posing for
a few minutes for the cameras before walking away
towards drier ground or going back into the water. I
was really hoping to spot the endangered Gangetic
River Dolphins, known as Soons locally. Only towards
sunset did they make an appearance - in the form of
small splashes of water rising above the surface. Did
not see any bits of the dolphins - but I was made to
believe of their existence by my guide.
Sunset on the river is no less than ethereal. After
a few shots, it is best to put the camera away and
admire the setting. The colours of the sky change to
golden yellow, reflecting in the water; the air gets
cooler and silhouetted flocks of birds circle around
you. As the skies go grey, and the surroundings quieter,
ask your boatman to switch off the engines so
you can whisper a thanks to the Creator.

Mugger Gharials in the Chambal River

Turtles in the Chambal River

The graceful Indian Skimmer in Chambal attracts
bird lovers and researchers from all
over the world. Distinguished by its black
cap, orange bill and a white body, it is found
mostly in rivers and estuaries in south and
south-east Asia. Its breeding season is usually
March and May, also a good time to see them
congregate in colonies of up to 40 pairs. Their
numbers are on the decline unfortunately,
estimated to be only a few thousand now.
Fall in water levels due to the damming of
the Chambal river and climate change has allowed
predators and livestock to access their
breeding islands. Release of water from dams
and seasonal flooding can also destroy breeding
colonies.

Bar-headed Geese on the banks
of the Chambal river

An Osprey on the Chambal river bank with a fresh catch of fish. The Osprey’s diet consists
almost exclusively of fish, and they are thus found near water bodies.
This is how men and their machines (and everything else) cross the Chambal river

Bateshwar
When at Chambal, drop by at Bateshwar village
known for its temples along the banks of the
river Yamuna.
According to folklore, an ascetic who worshipped
the Hindu God Shiva lived here under
a banyan tree (bat in Sanskrit). He built a shrine
to Shiva called Bat-Ishwar or the Banyan Lord,
thus giving Bateshwar its name. Ancient Jain
texts refer to the area as Shauryapura after its
founder the Yadava king Shursen, great-grandfather
of both the Hindu God Krishna and of
the 22nd Tirthankar of the Jains, Neminath. Excavations
show this may have been the site of
a thriving settlement before the Yadavas abandoned
it for strategic reasons.

A mud cave where a sadhu lives
Bateshwar continued to be a prominent religious
centre, with hundreds of temples coming up over
the centuries. About 40 survive now. The late
medieval period saw extensive building activity
but many, including a fort, were left unfinished
or uncared for due to the turbulence following
the fall of Mughal authority in Delhi. There is no
binding style to any of the structures, been built
by different patrons with varying endowments.
Join us on
The best way to see Bateshwar is by boat along
the ghats (series of steps leading to a water body)
and temples. Ask your boatman to go beyond
the village and you will be greeted by many exotic
birds and some animals too along the banks.
Upon disembarking, walk around the temples,
entering some and offering your prayers if you
choose to. A short walk beyond the temples
bring you to small hills with mud caves inhabited
by sadhus or holy men. Call upon them, chat
them up, take their blessings if you need any, and
take a few pictures. But it is recommended you
decline their offer of smoking from their chillums
or pipes, unless you are seeking a high at your
own risk.
The village also hosts what is supposedly the second
largest animal fair in the country, after Sonepur
in Bihar. It usually starts 4-5 days before
the festival of Diwali, and lasts about two weeks.
Trading starts with bullocks, buffaloes and cows,
followed by horses and camels and ending with
donkeys and goats. Elephants used to be put up
in the market in the past but not any longer. This
is immediately followed by a religious fair, when
tens of thousands of devotees come in their colourful
best to offer their prayers, take a holy dip
in the river, gorge on food and shop at the big
bazaar set up with hundreds of stalls.
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The ghats at Bateshwar
An unfinished fort in Bateshwar

Birds in the Yamuna river along - Bateshwar
Chambal
Travel Tips
* Getting there: One can easily drive down from Delhi, about 280 kms (175 miles) away. Nearest
railhead and airport are at Agra, 70 kms (45 miles) away. Distances are marked to Chambal Safari
Lodge.
* Accommodation: The Chambal Safari Lodge is the place to stay. Check them out at chambalsafari.com.
* Best time to go: November to March. Summer temperatures can rise to 47 degrees Celsius, falling
to as low as four degrees in the winters.
* Safaris: Unless you know of guides you can engage, safaris are best booked at the Chambal
Safari Lodge. They operate their own boats in the Chambal and Yamuna rivers, and have a competent
team of guides on their rolls. You will see many a bird and some animals if you just walk
within and around the lodge compound. The lodge also offers village walks, nature walks, bicycle
rides and safaris on horses and camels through the ravines of Chambal. Take your pick from the
a la carte menu.

Blackbucks in Chambal
The Blackbuck Safari
The best place in the country to spot Blackbucks is Velavadar in Gujarat (read Kunzum Travel List #33 for
more); you can see them by the hundreds there. But looking for them in agricultural fields around the ravines
of Chambal is a game in itself.
These beautiful animals move in groups, and flit in
and out of the wheat fields and other growth. They
seek the foliage at the sight of tourists, only to be
driven out by farmers who fear for their crops. Don’t
miss the many beautiful birds here. Make sure you
are wearing shoes suited to walk around in muddy
fields.
While you are there, don’t be surprised if you build a
following of village boys - share any sweets you may
have, and ask them for sugarcane to chew on if they
grow any. Farmers working their fields are ever ready
to break into a grin and chat with you. And as the sun
sets, farmers pack their tools and head home. So do
the birds and animals. You may want to hang around
longer till its dark.
A Black-shouldered Kite

Time to Go home
Rufous-tailed Shrike
An Indian Roller
The commonly found
Cattle Egrets

Collared Scops Owls
Bird watching in
Chambal Safari Lodge
Your lodge is home to over
180 species of birds itself,
many of them exotic and
rare; you could well spend
the day without moving out
to have your fill.
Rare Brown Hawk Owl

Flying Foxes or Fruit Bats. Unlike the ones I saw at
Koshi Tappu in Nepal, the ones in Chambal were
on much shorter trees and thus making for better
viewing. They rest in the day and fly all night to
eat fruits.
Hoopoe

DELHI
SUNDAY BOOK BAZAAR
THIS ONE IS FOR BOOKWORMS
This may not quite match up to the fame of Hay-on-Wye (in the U.K and,
unofficially the second hand books capital of the world) but it does have
something for bookworms nonetheless.

Every Sunday, scores of traders set up shop along
the main street of Darya Ganj to sell used books
and magazines from around 10:00 a.m. till sunset.
You can find books across all genres – fiction, nonfiction,
classics, travel, business, reference, academic,
pornography – mostly in Hindi or English.
The condition of these also varies: you can find
100 year old books in near mint condition or this
year’s titles in tatters. You could have them moth
ridden, dog-eared, torn in places, or put together
by additional binding or pasting.
Half the fun is just browsing through. And bargaining.
Do flip through the pages to check if they
are all there; the very old books could even have
pages disintegrate upon touch. Go early to get the
widest choice of titles before they are snapped up.
Don’t ask too many questions though – most sellers
don’t look like they have read a book in their
life.
And it’s not just books on sale. You get file covers,
ring binders, diaries, note pads and posters including
old Bollywood ones. Cashing in on the footfalls
are traders selling shoes, clothes, accessories,
tools, toys – all at bargain prices with quality to
match. Doing brisk business in all this are food
kiosks – if you do not fear the Delhi Belly, treat
yourself to jalebis, chola bhaturas, lassi, sweets,
paranthas, aloo puri, rabri, chaat and more. You
also have the wholesale market for fruits and
vegetables – just in case you are looking to stock
up at prices lower than your neighbourhood shop.
All in all, a bookworm’s delight.
Darya Ganj: Publisher Street
If you are looking to get a book published, Ansari Road, parallel to Darya Ganj, may be the place you want
to start. It is the home of book publishing in town, with many small and major publishers and distributors
having their offices here. Additional service providers like printers, designers, binders and packers are also
to be found. But you will increasingly see mostly Indian companies here; multinational imprints have chosen
to locate themselves elsewhere in the city in the recent past.

DELHI
Cure for all Sexual Problems
Old Delhi is home to some very ‘famous’ sexual
health clinics, prominent ones being the Khandani
Shafakhana on Asaf Ali Road, Hero Pharmacy in
Chandni Chowk and Sablok Clinic in Darya Ganj –
all claiming to rid you of any weaknesses or ailments,
usually with traditional forms of Indian
medicine. And then there are many lesser known
ones spread all across.
If you suffer from any problem, you may want to
visit one of these ‘doctors’ but at your own risk.
(Recommendation: Don’t!) If you are perfectly
fine, then book an appointment for some entertainment.
Go over with a make-believe issue for
a diagnosis. But don’t fall over laughing or start
going ‘Quack Quack’ during examination – it’s bad
manners. Save it till you are out. And don’t consume
anything offered or prescribed.
The consultation fee will be well spent. And the
experience ‘orgasmic !’

Sablok Clinic Rocks
\m/
Amongst the ‘biggies,’ Sablok Clinic even has its own website – sablokclinic.com – where you
can send your problems online and medicines will be sent across to wherever you are. You
don’t even need to be physically examined. They have a cure for everything including (quoted
verbatim from their website):
• Masturbation – Bad company or lack of proper guidance leads boys to hand practice whenever
they are alone as it provides a sort of physical enjoyment.
• Night Discharge - Patient feels the presence of a beautiful woman on the bed in dream,
starts doing sexual act with her and the semen is discharged.
• Syphilis - Intercourse with prostitutes and girls of bad character may lead to syphilis.
• Impotency - If a person cannot fully satisfy his wife in the sexual act, it is called impotency.
The main cause of impotency is excess of masturbation, secondly excess intercourse. This disease
ruins married life. The wife becomes very much disappointed and frustrated. Not only
the satisfaction of sexual desire she has, but the desire of having a child is more important to
a woman. To fulfill this desire she may take the help of some other person by which a heaven
like home turns into a hell.
The site also provides guidance for conducting oneself on their honeymoon. An extract:
“If you fail to prove yourself a good companion to your newly wedded, you cannot be an ideal companion
for her in bed as well. She will take you as a very sexy and lusty man as if she is only an object of sexual enjoyment.
This is why it would be necessary to take her as a life companion and not a thing of sexual satisfaction
or only a bedside partner.
You must know the code of decency and observe good manners and need not be in a reckless hurry about
sexual union, otherwise this happy occasion may turn into an unlucky night.
Some girls have very touch Hymen (cover of vagina), whereas in some girls it is very thin and tender and some
do not have it at all. Because they might have been torn as a result of games in the childhood, Horse riding
or swimming. Therefore the husband should never suspect the character of his wife else his married life may
turn into a curse for him.
The first intercourse is sometime very much painful for your wife. Therefore in the early days of honeymoon,
the husband should first win the wife’s confidence with sweet talks and make her agreeable to intercourse in
manner that she may not feel any hesitation or shyness in doing this act. First of all you should try to win her
as a friend and exercise a certain degree of control over yourself as your loving attitude will impress her & she
will dedicate herself to you.”
Are you feeling enlightened already? Dial 011-23278787 for more !

Hotel Review
Reni Pani Jungle Lodge
Satpura National Park,
Madhya Pradesh
Satpura National Park and Tiger Reserve can surely be regarded as one
of the most beautiful wildlife reserves in India, and a gem known to only
a few. As is the Reni Pani Jungle Lodge.
Brothers Faiz and Ali have defined new benchmarks in not only the design
but even service and quality levels with their lodge, not easy to emulate
by others in the business. Read on…

* Rooms: You will not be blamed for not wanting
to step out. The rooms are spacious, very well furnished,
and designed keeping all guest needs in mind.
An alcove allows you to sit comfortably, the beds are
perfect for a good night’s sleep for safari-rattled bodies,
and the bathing area has its own walk-in closet
and dressing area. The verandah is just right for your
morning cuppa. The mini bar allows you to make your
own tea and coffee, and comes with a cookie jar. The
showers provide hot and cold water when you need.
The interiors are what you may want to copy for your
own bedroom back home.
* Service: If the butler has to pick you at 7:30 p.m.
for dinner, he will be there at that time precisely. Yes,
you are allotted butlers to take care of your needs
and to guide you around when it’s dark. This service
culture has been imbibed all through. Housekeeping,
chefs, waiters, guides, porters - it is difficult to fault
anyone. They are all good at their job, are receptive
to guest needs, are all well turned out and will always
serve you with a smile.
* Location: The lodge stands in the middle of a thick
forest, left intact to the best extent possible when
constructing the buildings. You step out of your cottage
and are at once surrounded by trees and other
flora, as well as streams that overflow with water
during the monsoons. Many a bird and animal come
visiting; your hosts strictly advise you against walking
around in the dark without a butler and a flashlight
lest a leopard decides to take you home for dinner.
* Attention to detail: The mini bar in your room has
a pair of small scissors - to make it easy for you to cut
open milk powder and coffee sachets. Such attention
to detail is to be seen all across the property; you
will not be found wanting a torch, a bottle of water, a
blanket or anything else for that matter. They are all
there when you want it, where you want it.
* Meals: Talk about pampering guests, and in style.
You know the chefs and servers have made quite an
effort whenever you sit down for a meal. The spread
is not too vast (thankfully, else we would all end
up looking like gluttons) but tasty, wholesome and
mostly organic. The setting for dinner changes every
night - you may be sitting in a clump of trees one day,
and by the poolside the next. Lamps and other decorations
under the open skies make it a romantic’s
delight.
* Conservation: Little goes to waste at Reni Pani.
Much of the furnishing was crafted from disposed
off furniture and fittings when its sister property, the
Jehan Numa Palace in Bhopal, underwent a renovation.
Look up in the dining, and you will see the chandelier
designed from used ceramic soup bowls. The
management sources as much of fruits, vegetables
and dairy products from surrounding villages and
markets, and half the staff comprises locals. Electricity
and water consumption is minimized to the best
extent possible; generators come on only when really
required. Filtered water is available, and guests
need not open plastic bottles.
* Safaris: The folks at Reni Pani know their forest.
The naturalists, and Faiz and Ali too, are all highly
knowledgeable and in sync with the wild. Talk to
them about what interests you, and they will put it
all together for you. They are ever willing to share
stories and anecdotes - don’t miss the opportunity
to get it all from them. The safaris will be much more
enjoyable when you go in well informed.
* Liked Best: The design and setting of the lodge,
and the extremely caring and personalized service.
And the style with which everything is done - nothing
opulent or flashy, but always making it look special.
* Liked Least: All good things have to come to an
end, and you have to check out of Reni Pani eventually.
Your hosts get to stay on. Apply for a job - you
may just get one.

A bedroom
The study in a cottage
The double vanity in the bath area
Evening drinks and snacks
over a bon f ire
The chef also serving at dinner time
A Sit - out

The swimming pool
The library and reading room
A lounge area in the main building
A lounge area in the main building

The dining
A shop to buy handicrafts
and souvenirs
Lodge Address
Reni Pani Jungle Lodge
Village Reni Pani, Tehsil Sohagpur, District Hoshangabad
Madhya Pradesh, India
Tel: +91.93019 99223 / 93019 99198
For Reservations
Tel: +91.755.2661100
Mobile: +91.99930 99067
Email: info@renipanijunglelodge.com
Web: http://renipanijunglelodge.com

Hotel Review
The Sarai at Toria
Panna Tiger Reserve,
Madhya Pradesh
If everyone in the world had homes like the Sarai at Toria, we would
never fight each other and live happily ever after. Unfortunately Utopia
is not to be found everywhere; thankfully Joanna and Raghu have created
one where we can all get away to every once in a while.

Joanna Van Gruisen is a celebrated photographer,
writer and conservationist; originally from the UK,
the Indian subcontinent has been home to her for
over 30 years. Her husband, Dr. Raghu Chundawat,
is a conservation biologist whose main studies have
been on Snow Leopards and Tigers. Together they
have created a property that may be an apt reflection
of the work they have dedicated their lives to. Sarai
means inn in Persian, and Toria is a nearby village.
Situated on the west bank of one of the most picturesque
rivers of India, the Ken river, the Sarai is set
on nine acres of undulating land surrounded by local
villages and forests. Other guests and residents
at the Sarai include a rich variety of birds, insects,
mammals and butterflies. Don’t be surprised if you
are greeted by a Jungle Cat, a Mongoose, a Jackal or
a Langur monkey. It is all a part of the rich offering at
Sarai. Here’s more:
* The Rooms: The stone, wood and tile buildings
truly blend with the natural settings. The rooms are
spacious, with aesthetic interiors. Four rooms have
a mezzanine where children can go up to and sleep.
Private courtyards and verandahs make it even more
difficult for you to leave your quarters - you just want
to enjoy them all. All rooms have attached spacious
baths, with running hot and cold showers. Housekeeping
is excellent, and you will be hard pressed to
find anything that requires taking care of. Bedsheets,
towels and other linen are clean and feel fresh. There
is no air-conditioning, but the room design does not
need any cooling except during peak summers and
the monsoons - but the lodge is closed during that
time. There are six cottage rooms currently, with
plans to add two more.
sides, affording views of the Ken river while you have
your meals or laze around with a book. This perfect
setting gets better when you look around you: tall
grasses and trees on the property, fields around and
hills beyond. What more do you want? Awesome
views of the rising and the setting sun? Yes, you get
these too.
* Food: Get ready to be spoiled and pampered. Sarai
boasts three chefs including Raghu (another talent of
his) and a pastry chef. Freshly baked croissants, pastas,
salads, makki ki roti and saag - finger licking stuff
you cannot stop eating. Whetting your appetite is the
presentation: you could be served under the trees, in
the lawns or in the covered dining. The high quality
crockery and cutlery used remind you more of a fine
dining place in town than a jungle lodge. Enjoy the
meals, you will miss them later.
* Service: Is there much left to say? With Joanna and
Raghu involved hands-on, and training their staff
well, you are going to feel special throughout your
stay.
* The Safaris: If your hosts are like Joanna and Raghu,
you can be richer by as much of their knowledge and
experience as you can absorb. Sarai maintains their
own fleet of 4-wheel drive Gypsy vehicles, with naturalists
who can only be well trained. Make the most
of the opportunity to appreciate the forest while at
the Sarai.
* While you are there: Laze around and do nothing.
Or go for jeep safaris in the Panna Tiger Reserve, a
cruise on the Ken river, a day trip to Khajuraho, a hike
up the Ajaygarh fort, village walks and more.
* The Setting: The dining and lounge is open on three
Go to the Sarai at Toria as a destination in itself.

A bedroom
The bath in one of the cottages
Lunch under the trees. Notice the
small kitchen garden too.
The mezzanine with additional beds in
some of the cottages
The lounge which also overlooks the
Ken river
Cottages

Time for breakfast
The bridge connecting the parking
area to the cottages area
Getting There
The lodge is located just off NH75, about 2 kms from the entrance to
the Panna Tiger Reserve at Madla.
You can get there:
* Via Khajuraho: The town is well connected by air and rail services,
and is a 30 minute drive from Sarai.
* Via Jhansi: This town is even better connected by train, but takes about
3.5 hours more by road.
* By Road: If you are driving yourself, enjoy the whole Bundelkhand
region and stop at the many awesome destinations along the way.
Contact for Reservations :
RARE (T S Marketing Services)
U26A/6, Ground F loor, DLF P hase III, Gurgaon, Haryana - 122 002
P h : + 91.124.2356004 / 4062480 / 4062481
Email: saraiattoria@gmail.com | Web: http://saraiattoria.com
Contact the Lodge Direct :
Raghu- + 91.9685293130 | Joanna- +91.9752270337

address: T-49, GF, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110 016, India
telephone: +91.11.2651 3949 | +91.9650 702 777 |
website: http://kunzum.com/travelcafe | mail@kunzum.com
Open Tuesday - Sunday, 11:00 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. (Mondays Closed)
PHEW!
Finally a place for travellers to meet.
In the real world - not on social media.
To simply bum around. Exchange travel stories. Make travel plans.
Read up & buy travel books. Post travelogues, images & videos. pick up
photographic art. Even write books.
Over coffee and cookies. And free Wi-Fi. Only at the
Travel Cafe

A classic travel book reading list
Nimish Dubey
Ask someone about reading travelogues and it is a fair ings of Don Quixote by Miguel Cervates or the amazingly
futuristic travels of Jules Verne, there is a stand-
chance that they will head off and start looking for
books by the likes of Mark Shand, Bill Bryson and Sir ard of writing here that is likely to more than match
Ranulph Fiennes. And there is nothing really wrong anything that modern travel authors have to offer.
with it as these are perhaps the masters of modern Truth be told, we think that the older classic writers
are actually much better than the modern ones,
travel literature. However, before people start off on
these, we would request them to try out some of simply because their command of the language was
the older masters. No, yawn not at their being mentioned,
for these gentlemen and ladies turned out much better narrators than their modern counter-
markedly superior and because they seemed to be
some of the most magnificent travel writing we have parts. As one person put it so aptly, the likes of Twain
ever read, be it cloaked as fiction or written in classic and Verne were authors who liked to travel, while
travelogue style.
Shand and Fiennes are travellers who like to write
Be it the gritty, survival-oriented tale of Robinson (although Bryson can claim to be exempted from this
Crusoe by Daniel Defoe, the utterly insane wander-
– the man has some mastery of prose).
55

So, if you would take our word for it, we would ask you to check out the following
classics from travel literature before you venture into more modern works. You
will not regret it, we promise.
1. Don Quixote by Miguel Cervates: A man
thinks he is a knight and travels all over Spain,
getting pilloried and thumped in equal measure,
but sticks to his task. Hilarious, sarcastic
and the first travel classic.
2. Around the World in Eighty Days by Jules
Verne: We reviewed it earlier and still think
that the attempt by an English gentleman and
his valet to traverse the world in eighty days is
the ultimate in travel fiction.
3. Journey to the Centre of the Earth by Jules
Verne: Another Verne classic, this time based
on the efforts of three mean to go into the
bowels of the earth, in an attempt to find the
centre of the planet. Tense, riveting stuff and
you will never guess what they find in there!
4. Gulliver’s Travels by Jonathan Swift: A man
whose voyages takes him to strange places.
Sounds simple? Read the book and we are
certain you will be riveted.
5. Robinson Crusoe by Daniel Defoe: A shipwrecked
man on a seemingly uninhabited
island, trying to eke out a living, even as he
explores his whereabouts. An amazing tale.
6. The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn by
Mark Twain: Two boys decide to run away
from home and sail down a river, meeting all
sorts of people in a journey rich with excitement.
We have not stopped laughing yet.
7. Three Men in a Boat by Jerome K Jerome:
Three men (and a dog) decide to take a break
from their routine lives by sailing down the
Thames and what follows is perhaps the most
hilarious account in travel literature. We defy
you to read it without laughing.
8. Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea
by Jules Verne: Another book by Verne, establishing
him as the master in the travel
literature genre. This time, a hunt for a marine
creature that is sinking ships turns into
an amazing journey under the sea. Written
before the world had seen a submarine. But
then, Verne was a genius.
9. Life on the Mississipi by Mark Twain: How
on earth did Twain get all those amazing portrayals
of life along the Mississipi river? Well,
he was a steam boat pilot on it. This is his account
of those days and is written with typical
warmth, skill and of course, humour.
10. Travels With a Donkey in the Cevennes by
Robert Louis Stevenson: The man who gave
us masterpieces like Treasure Island and Kidnapped
loved to travel and this book details
his 120 mile hiking trip in France. The route
has retraced by millions of his fans and other
travellers since, but none has managed to
write a book half as brilliant.

PEEP PEEP DON’T SLEEP
A book on funny road signs and advertisements with captions
and commentary by Ajay Jain
If you thought road signs are only meant to guide and inform, think again.
The ones on Indian highways are in a zone of their own. They shower you with words of wisdom,
keep your mind sharp as you unravel their cryptic messages, tickle your imagination, amuse you and
entertain you. In public interest, they lend a hand to Alcoholics Anonymous. Since journeys are meant
to be a pleasure, they remind you to ‘Smile Please.’
The entertainment for the traveler does not stop at this. There are the limitless public notices, outdoor
advertisements and storefront signs with their own idiosyncrasies and eccentricities. Who needs comic
strips in this country?
Ajay Jain drove thousands of miles to put together this collection of signs. With a bit of witty commentary
thrown in, this book will be a journey unlike any other you may have undertaken. Resulting in you
letting out a ‘Peep Peep’ of delight.
For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit
www.peeppeepdontsleep.com
Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle
36

kunzum Travel Pix
We bring you engaging imagery from our travels - and a few are given here. Follow the
series. The first six appeared in the December 2011 issue of the Kunzum Travel Mag.

Postcards from Ladakh
A Pictorial Travelogue by Ajay Jain
Postcards from Ladakh is a collection of frames - picture postcards, if you will
- frozen circa 2009, when the author drove for over 10,000 kms (6,000 miles)
across the remote and fascinating region of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas.
Neither guidebook nor encyclopedia, it is intended to give you a flavour of this
high altitude cold desert.
You will also meet a few Ladakhis in these pages. And see the land they live in, the
faith they live by, the hope they live on…Each of them will spontaneously greet
you with a cheerful Julley and invite you to be part of their culture and society.
No Ladakhi is a stranger. We just haven’t had the time to meet them all...
For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit
www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh
Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle

Since 2007, Kunzum has served as an important guide for travellers planning journeys
in India and the subcontinent - and some international destinations too.
INTRODUCTIONS FIRST…
Kunzum is a high altitude pass in the Lahaul Spiti region of Himachal Pradesh in India.
And the inspiration behind the brand that is all about memorable travel experiences.
Our journey started in 2007 as a travel blog by writer and photographer, Ajay Jain. And
we have crossed many milestones - literally and figuratively - since then.
KUNZUM.COM
An independent, objective and one of the most trusted online travel information websites
in India. A unique style of writing, peppered with anecdotes and illustrated with high
quality photographs and videos, have won the site a fan following of tens of thousands of
travellers. More at http://kunzum.com.
THE KUNZUM TRAVEL MAG
A unique product, it is a monthly e-mag available as a PDF, for the iPad and
Kindle, and for online reading with flipping pages on Issuu.com. Subscription is
FREE at http://kunzum.com/mag.
PUBLISHING
We publish engaging and quality travel books and guides in both traditional
formats as well as e-books (for the iPad, Amazon’s Kindle, other mobile readers
and all computers). More at http://kunzum.com/books.
CURATOR OF COLLECTIBLE PHOTOGRAPHIC ART
Available for your walls at home, office or resort and also as stock imagery
for publishing and promotional materials. All printed on archival paper to last
generations. The prints are also on display at the Kunzum Travel Café. Check the
collection at http://kunzumgallery.com.
KUNZUM TRAVEL CAFÉ
Another unique offering from Kunzum - a bricks and mortar place for the travel-minded to
come together as a community, a sort of Face-to-Facebook network. Located in Hauz Khas
Village in New Delhi, guests can hang around, read travel books, use free Wi-Fi, participate
in events, exchange stories, enjoy music, buy photographic art, post travelogues and make
travel plans. They can even order tea, coffee and cookies - and pay what they like. More at
http://kunzum.com/travelcafe.
CONTACT US
wetravel@kunzum.com | +91.9650702777
LINKS
Online
http://kunzum.com
Facebook
http://facebook.com/kunzum
Twitter
http://twitter.com/kunzum
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http://youtube.com/kunzum
Vimeo
http://vimeo.com/kunzum

ABOUT AJAY JAIN
Ajay Jain is a full time writer, journalist
and photographer based in New Delhi in
India. He is not limited in his medium of
expression, equally comfortable writing for
newspapers and magazines, as well as his
own books and blogs.
Starting his writing career in 2001, he has
been covering business, technology and
youth affairs before deciding to focus wholly
on travel writing. He pursues his passion by
being on the road as much as he can.
He has written three books, the latest
being Postcards from Ladakh (http://www.
kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh), a
pictorial travelogue on Ladakh. His first,
Let’s Connect: Using LinkedIn to Get
Ahead at Work, is a management book on
professional networking using the world’s
most popular professional networking site
LinkedIn.com. It was published in early
2008. His other book, and his first travel
book, Peep Peep Don’t Sleep (http://www.
peeppeepdontsleep.com), is a collection of
funny road signs and advertisements.
Contact
Email: ajay@ajayjain.com
Mobile: +91.99100 44476
LINKS
Facebook
http://facebook.com/ajayjain9
Twitter
http://twitter.com/ajayjain
LinkedIn
http://www.linkedin.com/in/
ajayjain9
He has worked for and written columns
for national publications in India
including The Hindustan Times, Mint,
Financial Express, Indian Management
(Business Standard), Outlook Business,
Deccan Herald, Mumbai Mirror (Times
of India), Discover India, Swagat, Asian
Age and Rediff.com. He has also edited a
youth newspaper, The Campus Paper.
Prior to taking up writing, he has worked
in the Information Technology and Sports
Management sectors. He holds degrees
Mechanical Engineering (Delhi College
of Engineering, 1992), Management
(Fore School of Management, 1994) and
Journalism (Cardiff University, UK, 2002).
His schooling was at St. Columba’s School
in New Delhi.