Gujarat

Issue 04 | October 2011
T R A V E L M A G
Postcards from
Gujarat

Things are stirring
at Kunzum
Sometimes you can just feel it in the air.
The journey of Kunzum started in 2007
on the Kunzum La (pass) in the high
altitude region of Lahaul Spiti in the
Indian Himalayan state of Himachal
Pradesh. It has been one awesome ride
since then.
Things have been progressing at
a steady pace since, with many a
milestone crossed during the period. But all activity has largely been
low decibel. However, we can feel a certain stirring within. It has little
to do with the changing season around us. Something tells us the fifth
year of Kunzum could be a wee bit explosive.
How? Our traffic to the site is growing at a rapid pace. So are the fans
and followers on Facebook and Twitter. Footfalls at the Kunzum Travel
Café ensure we are mostly busy. Sponsors and advertisers are biting.
We have been in the news too. But these are just two swallows, and they
do not always make a summer.
The signs are there though. In the coming months, we have a series of
new books coming out. Finally, we have a business model in place to
roll out more Kunzum Travel Cafes - we have had only one since 2010.
Quality hotels and travel service providers are ready for partnerships that
should put us on a stronger financial footing. Apps under development
will see our content being packaged in new ways; new features on our
website should make the reading experience easier and provide better
utility. Photography workshops at the Kunzum Media Lab have opened
to an overwhelming response. We are adding team members, and are
proud of those we already have on board. They are the ones who will
enable us to leap forward.
When we go road tripping, we only go with a fuzzy itinerary in mind.
We allow the journey to take its own course. This is how we run our
business too. We can feel good things are going to happen soon, but we
don’t make business plans. It may confound investors and analysts, but
this is how we are wired. After all, we are Kunzum.
contents
06 Postcards from Gujarat
18 Himachal Pradesh
Thanedar: The birthplace of apples in
India
21 Rajasthan
Mount Abu: A quiet oasis in a desert state
26 Delhi
Chor Minar: Making an example of
thieves
Khooni Darwaza: The gate with a bloody
history
Kinari Bazaar: Where colours change with
seasons
32 Jordan
Wadi Rum: A vast, echoing and God-like
desert
41 Hotel Reviews
> Wild Grass Lodge, Kaziranga, Assam
> Soulitude, Ramgarh, Uttarakhand
45 Stuff
> The Wanderer’s Palate: Elai Adai
> Travel Bites
> Sketch Feature - Kanha National Park
> Book Review: Being a Scot
> The Handwritten Travelogue
team kunzum
CTO (Chief Travelling Officer): Ajay Jain
- He also hogs the driver’s seat
CEO (Chief Editorial Officer): Anubhuti Rana
- Prefers being on the passenger seat on the highways
CSO (Chief Social Officer): Shruti Sharma
- Found on Facebook, Twitter, Kunzum Travel Café or
trekking in the wild
CDO (Chief Design Officer): Faizan Patel
- Also Chief Desk Officer, that’s where he is stuck when
others travel
*Unless mentioned, all articles and photographs in this issue are by Ajay Jain
Subscribe to the
Samridhi Minocha - A big welcome to our new
team member
for FREE at
http://kunzum.com/mag
available as PDF & for the iPad & Kindle

Missed the earlier issues of the Kunzum Travel Mag? No problem. Download
the same at http://kunzum.com/mag. This is what we have covered:
RAJASTHAN / RANTHAMBHORE:
> Looking the tiger in the eye
NAGALAND: Misty Mountain Top
The re-discovery of NEPAL
LADAKH: At the top of the world
HIMACHAL PRADESH / LAHAUL SPITI
> Kaza: Paradise is Here
> Tabo, the Village of Cavemen and Lamas
DELHI
> Mehrauli Archaeological Park: Bet no one
tells you this one
> Hazrat Nizamuddin’s Dargah: Qawwalis,
Fairs, Prayers, Shopping – It all happens here
BOOKS: > 5 books to read about the 1996 Everest disaster
Issue 1, July 2011
GUJARAT
> Rani ki Vav in Patan: A Stepwell or a Work of Art?
> The Sun Temple at Modhera
JORDAN
> Dead Sea: Try sinking in it, you cannot!
HOTEL REVIEWS
> Swaswara in Gokarna, Karnataka - Perfect to uplift your
body, mind and soul
> Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad Kerala -
What a perfect setting for a resort
> Banjara Camps and Retreat, Sangla, Himachal Pradesh -
Cannot Admire it Enough
> Gir Birding Lodge, Sasan Gir, Gujarat - They know the
jungle!
Assam:
> Manas National Park: The Games Elephants Play
Arunachal Pradesh:
> Hello Ladies…of Arunachal Pradesh
Himachal Pradesh
Maharashtra:
> The Matheran Light Railway: Go for a Joyride
Uttarakhand
> Kunzum Route K14
Delhi
> If it’s Ramadan, you must be in Matia Mahal
> Walk on the Northern Ridge: History in One Sweep
Issue 2, aUGUST 2011
Rajasthan
> Kuldhara, Jaisalmer: When the Paliwals Vanished into the
Night
> Bera: Welcome to Leopard Country - It is Wild and Free
HOTEL REVIEWS
> Banjara Retreat, Shoja
> The Almond Villa, Srinagar
> Rann Riders, Dasada, Rann of Kutch
> Devra Homestay, Udaipur
Stuff
> Sketch Feature - Singapore
> Photography: Don’t let the Camera go Dead on you
> Book Review: Journey to the Center of the Earth
A Journey to Kashmir, on Kunzum Route K11
Delhi
> Join the annual Dussehra Procession
Safdarjung’s Tomb
Tamil Nadu: The Niligiri Mountain Railway -
A Toy Train you must Ride
Rajasthan
Jodhpur: Food, Bazaars, History - It all Happens Here
Issue 3, SEPTEMBER 2011
Hotel Reviews
> Castle Bera, Bera, Rajasthan Rain Country Resorts
> Wayanad, Kerala
>The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar, Gujarat
> Banjara Orchard Retreat, Thanedar, Himachal Pradesh
Stuff
> Travel Bites: Don’t be Jet-Lagged this Holiday Season
> Sketch Feature - Malaysia
> Book Review: River Dog

Feel the wind. Explore. Ride away.
On a 500 cc motorbike.
There may be no better way to see India.
Decide your own route, or take one of our
recommendations.
Bike rentals | Tour Advisories | Guided Tours.
www.royalindiabikes.com | +91.99100 12597 | +91.9871697719 | rajiv@royalindiabikes.com
North India – rajiv@royalindiabikes.com ; saiba@royalindiabikes.com | South India – malvikaa@gmail.com

Post Cards
from
Gujarat
A lioness atop a hill
If you like surprises, go to Gujarat. The state does not come up for discussion too often
when friends and family make travel plans - but a treasure trove awaits the traveller in
this state.
Gujarat has everything you can ask for. Wild animals, migratory birds, festivals, culture,
landscapes, history, architecture, food, beaches, mountains - all this, and more. One cannot
cover enough ground in one visit, nor can one catch all the flavours and colours till one
travels during different seasons. I drove through the state sometime back, and here are
select postcards I would have sent you had I known you at the time.
06

The famed Patola
saree of Patan
Spent a night in Udaipur, and stopped at
Patan first after crossing into Gujarat. To
meet Rohit Salve, who claims his is the
only family in the world who makes the
famed original Patola saree the way it
should be.
Back in the 11th century, 700 families
were engaged in Patola art under the
patronage of Solanki kings who ruled from
Patan. They were invited to migrate from
Jalna in south Maharashtra and settle
here. Over time, artisans migrated or
sought alternate professions, and the art
has since then become near extinct.
Rohit Salvi (L) and his brother at work
Patola was always coveted – a folk
song sung by women for their traveling
husbands in Gujarat: “O my dear! Do bring
the precious Patola from Patan for me.”
The same song in Gujarati: “Chhelaji re,
mare hatu Patan thi Patola mongha lavjo.”
Traveller Ibn Batuta presented kings with
Patolas to gain their friendship. These also
found their way to Malaysia, Indonesia
and other South-East Asian countries.
One saree takes 4-6 months to make. And
costs Rs. 1,50,000 - 4,00,000 (US$ 3000-
8000). The Salvis are booked for six years.
Two Salvis manage to progress only 8-9
inches a day on a cloth 48 inches wide.
It is woven on a slanting hand operated
harness loom made of teakwood and
bamboo strips. If you got a Patola saree
that is cheaper than that, it may not be
the real thing. Sorry folks, your treasure of
Patola may not be as ‘treasured.’
Rohit Salvi says anyone who claims to
make Patola is not doing it the true and
original way. Their technique is called
‘Double Ikat,’ others follow ‘Single Ikat.’
Patola art lies is colouring silk threads
by ‘tie and dye’ or Bandhani method by
making the desired pattern at weaving
stage. You have got to see it to understand
this. And there is no reverse side – both
sides have the same intensity of colour
and design.
Natural vegetable dyes are used. Some
raw materials include turmeric, marigold
flowers, onion skin, pomegranate bark,
madder, lac, catechu, cochineal and indigo.
The ‘tie and dye’ or Bandhani process
07

A design is repeated only once in many
years. The design for the wall piece that
was work in progress when I visited
was being repeated after 150 years.
True Patola comes with the promise
of natural colours to last hundreds of
years even if the fabric tears. A framed
piece on the wall was 300 years old.
Will Patola art die after Rohit Salvi’s
generation? He is confident the baton
will continue to be passed for many more
generations. We certainly hope so.
I also visited the Rani
Ki Vav, a beautiful
stepwell in Patan
and the Sun Temple
in nearby Modhera.
Read about both
of these in the
July edition of the
Kunzum Travel Mag.
Chasing the Wild Ass in the Rann of Kutch
The Little Rann of Kutch is best known
for the Indian Wild Ass, or the Ghudkhar
as called locally. Thousands roam
the desert but they are still tagged
‘endangered.’
First look: They are not bad looking at
all. Quite fair, much smarter turned out
than the common donkeys. Sharper
facial features and they could pass
for ponies for children. But they can
match up to the strength and speeds
of horses, weighing up to 230 kgs and
managing speeds of upto 70 kmph (45
miles per hour). Wonder if they are as
intelligent as horses?
They once roamed across North-
West India, West Pakistan and Iran
but are now found in the Rann only.
The Ghudkhars are a sturdy lot,
withstanding extremes of weather,
a terrain without shade that gets
droughts and floods in equal measure.
Meals include fodder, scrubby grass
and sweet water. Their life span is 20-
25 years. Breeding season is August to
October – away from the prying eyes
of tourists when the region is mostly
closed. Gestation period is 11 months,
and kids are ready to join the herd in a
short time.
I managed to spot a few herds, getting as
close as possible without scaring them
away. But they sense an approaching
UFO on wheels and make a run for it.
Keep your cameras ready with shutter
speeds set at 1/500 or faster.
You have to be very unlucky not to
spot them. But abuse them and their
habitat, and the last remaining ones
could disappear too.

Dholavira: People lived here 5,000 years ago
And here I was: on the site where
people once lived in the 3rd Millennium
B.C. Imagine the remains still exist.
Don’t let your imagination wander, it
can cause vertigo.
The site was discovered only in 1967-
68 by Jagatpati Joshi with excavations
starting only in 1990 under Dr. R.S. Bisht.
The site is known as Kotada in Gujarat.
Spread over 100 hectares, it is one of
the five biggest from the Harappan
period in the Indo-Pak region.
The entrance to the city had a signboard
of 10 Harappan characters; it still exists
and is the oldest signboard in the world.
Strangely enough it is locked away from
the public eye. The citadel in the south
comprised two fortified sections: the
castle in the east and the bailey in the
west. Royalty stayed in the former and
their servants in the latter. Beyond the
bailey lay the burial ground – graves
dug up reveal personal belongings that
were buried along with the deceased.
The middle town lies to the north,
separated from the citadel by a large
ceremonial ground or stadium with a
capacity of over 10,000.
Dholavira stands out for its unique
water management system, with 10
reservoirs feeding one into the next.
These stored fresh water for the
bustling city and are partly bedrock
and partly made of masonry. Steps
lead to the water level. Water came by
constructing dams on the Manher and
Mansar rivers – the city lay between
the banks of these cities. Another
source was a well in the citadel area.
Some of the excavations from the site
included beads and ornaments made
of stones, shells, terracotta, gold, silver
etc. Seals, weights and measures and
terracotta animal figurines have also
been found here. According to my
guide said excavation had stopped since
2005 due to lack of funds. This problem
can be taken care of if Dholavira gets
the UNESCO World Heritage Status. It
certainly deserves it.

The white and watery Rann around Dholavira
The Rann region makes for great
sightings – the landscapes are unlike
any you will see – vast expanses of
white salt, brown sand or just water.
I stopped with a start when I noticed
what looked like a sheet of ice half-way
between Rapar and Dholavira. Only
these were crystals of salt stretching far
into the horizon. The white Rann is best
seen on full moon night; I happened to
be there on a moonless one. But saw
many other hues in the evening and
morning sun.
The landscape of the Rann in Dholavira
itself is very beautiful. It is white and
watery with a rough path for cars going
through it. To enter the area, you need
permission from the Border Security
Force (BSF) who form a protective
shield against neighbouring Pakistan.
The path goes to their last post 13 miles
away. And then it is 25 miles of water
till the border – no one can cross it says
BSF.
My first reaction as I drive in: more
beautiful than the Dead Sea. But not
advisable to step in. In the Dead Sea,
you cannot sink. Here, you can only
sink and no one can help you. Did
venture on to the salt beds gingerly
to take pictures – with no one to hear
my calls for help if it came to that. Got
some stunning sunsets. I was all alone,
and there was not a sound. Or any life
form as far as I could see. Could have
sat around contemplating for hours –
where do you get to be with yourself
like this? The photographs speak for
themselves.
BSF advised me to return before it got
dark. The headlights of my car could be
seen as unwanted territorial intruders
setting off army gunfire in my direction.
Ouch, that would have hurt.

Lakhpat, the original trading port
The Lakhpat fort stands on the North-
West corner of the Great Rann, and
faces the Pakistan border to the north.
It also serves as a symbolic fortification
against enemy intrusion.
The first sight of the fort was
IMPRESSIVE! I could see it from over
three miles away – it sure has one hell
of a span for any wide angle to capture
in one go.
Lakhpat was a bustling trading town on
the banks of a tributary of Indus river
before the latter changed course. There
is still a village settled inside. The North-
South walls were built by Rao Lakhpatji
in the mid-18th century; some of the
buildings inside pre-date that. Fateh
Muhammed expanded these to what
we see today in 1801. I drove into the
Lakhpat fort – there are no restrictions.
This is the gate where caravans laden
with goods for trading entered in the
past; a toll window levied fee and
customs on visitors and goods entering
the city. It was called Bhuj Varo Nako
and Toll Gate.
An interesting building is the Pir
Kamalshah Dargah with a legend
around it. In the mid-19th century,
Kamalshah, a holy man respected
by both Hindus and Muslims, was
brought from Kokliya, neat the port
city of Mandvi to Lakhpat to be buried.
Upon arrival, the gatekeeper refused
entry to the funeral party. No problem.
Kamalshah came back to life, entered
as a ‘live’ person, lived for a month and
then passed away again to be finally
buried here. Believe it or not.
I was invited up a watch tower by two
BSF soldiers – one from Haryana, the
other from Andhra Pradesh. They just
stay here all the time – I don’t want
their job. They pointed out to the Great
Rann spread below – and generally in
the direction of their posts five miles
out and one at pillar number 1145.
About 10 miles further is the Pakistan
border – the Great Rann and Harami
Nala separate the two countries. The
latter is a river that flows from Pak into
India and back. The soldiers proudly
said the BSF has a few RTVs from Italy –
the only vehicles suited to drive across
the Rann desert. Broad tyre marks were
clearly visible on salt beds.
The desert looked a mix of water, clay
and salt. It’s all white when dry – and
I have seen stunning images of it being
lit up under a full moon night! I had my
timing wrong.
The main entrance to the Lakhpat fort
Pir Kamalshah Dargah
A view of the Great Rann from the fort
A BSF soldier posted at the fort;
standing on a tower with the remains of an old cannon

A Division of AsiAn ADventures
T: +91-11-44128785, M: +91-9811704651, E: wildindiatours@vsnl.com, W: www.asianadventures.net

The elusive leopard
The big cats of Gir
And here I am in the Gir National
Park - home to the last of the Asiatic
lions on this planet. Will I meet any?
Before I met the lions, I encountered
a leopard. The latter are very rare
to spot - especially in the daytime.
But my guide pointed to something
blurry in the shadows of some
trees. It was a leopard! It was just
sitting there – on the lookout for
a hunt said the guide. Not sensing
any prey, it walked off after a few
minutes.
And then I struck gold - four lions
in a single safari. The first was a big
lioness sitting atop a hill. Royally. It
could not be bothered with sudden
vehicular activity a few metres away.
She looked around, yawned, and lay
down for an afternoon siesta.
Just when I thought the safari had
paid for itself, I was in for a bonus:
a lioness with two cubs, a male
almost two years old and another six
months. The gender of the younger
one was not clear yet. The guide
managed to bend the rules and take
the car off track, close to where the
lions were resting. Allowing me to
click away up close and with some
time at hand.
Usually lionesses give birth once in
three years according to the guide.
They mate only when the offspring
is almost an adult. A lioness must
also protect her cubs from male
lions. A male can kill the cub if only
to evoke a desire in the woman
to have another kid and thus be
available for mating.
The elder of the lion cubs The younger cub lets out a long yawn The mother lion

Meeting Blackbucks, the sweetest ones, in Velavadar
As far as sanctuaries go, Velavadar is the
sweetest one. It is home to Blackbucks,
beautiful members of the deer family.
But don’t let the gentle beauty of
Blackbucks fool you. One moment
they will be standing quietly, gazing
peacefully, and the next moment they
take home the silver medal in running
events clocking speeds of 80 kmph
(50 miles per hour). Only the Cheetah
pips them to the post. Velavadar
has the highest concentration of the
endangered Blackbucks anywhere.
I happened to call upon the Blackbucks
during their peak fawning period
of March – April (the other being
September – October). When the males
are not mating, they are locking horns
to get the women for themselves.
More than a pair were spotted fighting
by me. Each male has its territories,
but we know how politics works. But
do they really need to spar? It seemed
there were more than enough females
going around for all. But then again,
men will be men.
The male blackbucks sport horns; the
younger ones have a brown coat that
get blacker as they mature. No racist
talks here. Females are brown. And
they all like to live as large herds. Any
room in the harem?
The open grasslands of Velavadar suits
the blackbucks just fine. They have a
life span of up to 15 years, can be 120
cm long with shoulder heights of 73-83
cm and weigh between 32-42 kilos.
I could have looked at Blackbucks
for hours. Even they would not stop
looking at me – curious about the
Martian in their land. But a single step
in their direction, and they would flee.
Distance to Velavadar: Ahmedabad (200
kms), Bhavanagar (52 kms), Palitana (110
kms), Lothal (125 kms), Alang (107 kms)

Lothal, the ancient Harappan Civilization site
After Dholavira a few days ago, I was
advised to visit Lothal, another major
Harappan town of the ancient Indus
River Valley civilization.
Lothal was discovered in 1954, with
excavations being carried out from
1955-62 to reveal most of what can
be seen today. Strangely, Lothal means
‘mound of the dead.’ Shudder, sounds
very ominous! Not the best of ideas to
camp here for the night. Folks buried
here are old, very old. You never know
how they may behave.
Lothal dates to circa 2500-1900 B.C.
Trick question: How many centuries
ago is that? The town’s chief lived in
the Acropolis, with houses built on 3
metre high platforms and provided
with all civic amenities like paved
baths, underground drains and a well
for potable water. The lower town was
divided into the commercial district
where craftsmen worked, the other
being the residential sector.
Excavations have revealed, - among
other things - beads; seals and sealings;
shell, copper, ivory and bronze objects;
tools; animal and human figurines;
weights; ritual objects etc. Lothal was
an important overseas trading port, and
its prosperity was based on business
in semi precious stone beads, copper,
ivory, shell and cotton goods with West
Asia. Discovery of objects of Persian
Gulf origin and terracotta figures of
gorillas and mummies indicate strong
international connections.
Explore Gujarat on a Chakkra
If you are a traveler with a sense of
adventure, hire a Chakkra to explore
Gujarat. You just need to be a very
patient traveler.
These are like auto rickshaws, powered
by one of those World War styled
motorcycles. In some ways they are
like the Tuk-Tuks of Thailand; they also
move in a kind of front-back oscillating
movement going chak-chak-chak-chak
or tuk-tuk-tuk-tuk. They rattle, they
shake, they can be smoking from any or
all sides, they are noisy - but seem to
boast a stable centre of gravity.
How many do they seat? I have counted
20 at most. But there always seems to
be room for more. It never topples.
You will find Chakkras everywhere:
on country roads, on the state’s new
super highways, in villages and in cities.
Coming at you from all sides including
the wrong one.
Are you picking one for yourself and
going on a ride soon?

Thanedar
The birthplace of apples in India
HIMACHAL PRADESH
The next time you bite into a juicy
apple from Himachal Pradesh,
thank American Samuel Evan
Stokes for it. He came to India on a
leprosy mission in 1904, and was
advised to recuperate in Kotgarh
near Thanedar in Himachal when the
heat of the plains got to him. With
time to kill, he experimented with
planting the apples we know today;
the success of his efforts transformed
the economy of the state, flooding
the Indian market with apples in the
following decades. Many a doctor has
since been kept away.
The Barobagh estate still bears fruit - it
is the site of Stokes’ first plantations.
Located a few miles from Narkanda
beyond state capital Shimla, Thanedar
is the original apple country. And an all
year destination for travellers.
Spring is the time when the area is
resplendent with apple blossoms.
Summers are for respite from the heat
in the plains. And soon enough, it is
time for apple plucking in August and
September. No one will mind if you
volunteer to pick the fruit and pack it
in crates - or help make chutneys and
juices. Remuneration will be a few bites
of the fruit. A crisp but enjoyable cold
sets in from late-October onwards with
some snow in peak winters. Roads and
services stay open, ensuring you have a
great time.
While in Thanedar, just being in the fruit
bearing orchards is joyful enough. You
can also take walks in the forests, go up
to the nearby Hatu peak at 11,000 feet
(3353 metres) to admire the panoramic
views of the surrounding snow-capped
peaks or just picnic in the plentiful
meadows. You may drop in at the St.
Mary’s Church, built in 1843, where
Stokes first stayed or at the Parmjyotir
Temple built by him. Consider a day hike
to the Tani Jubbar Lake, 6 kms (4 miles)
away with a Nag Devta (Serpent King)
temple around it. Indulge in all of these
and your cup of joyful experiences shall
spilleth over!
Thanedar is a hidden gem, tucked away
from any noise and pollution, but easily
accessible. Looks like you can visit
Thanedar in any season.
The little bird says: We recommend you stay at the Banjara Orchard Retreat (http://www.banjaracamps.
com) in Thanedar; it is a gorgeous property set amidst orchards. The owner Prakash Thakur makes for a
wonderful host and will delight you with stories and history of the place.
18

Travel Tips
• Weather: Pleasant summers with rain from June - August. Spring and autumn can be cold in the evenings.
Temperature can drop to freezing in winters alongwith some snow.
• Best time to go: All year round. You may need to watch out for days of heavy rain or snow.
• How to reach: Drive up or catch a flight to Shimla and go by road from there. Or take the Toy Train from
Kalka to Shimla.
• Distances: Shimla: 64 kms (40 miles); Delhi: 466 kms (291 miles). Refer to Kunzum Route K13 (http://
kunzum.com/2010/11/03/driving-guide-delhi-to-lahaul-spiti-kaza-and-tabo-nako-sangla-thanedar-andback)
for driving directions.
• Accommodation: Your best option by far is Banjara Camps
(http://www.banjaracamps.com). There are a few other hotels and guest houses for all budgets.
• Recommended Stay: At least 2 days.
• Nearby Attractions: Visit Narkanda, Kufri, Chail, Shimla and Mashobra - all a half / full day excursion
away. Or head further to Shoja, Sangla or even Lahaul Spiti for an extended trip.
19

Camp Pinewood Trails is set in the heart of
Himachal Pradesh and 30 minutes drive from a
small town Kandaghat on the Chail Road, Camp
Pinewood Trails is surrounded by lush cedar
forests. It offers unlimited options for hikes
along meandering hilly trek routes. A short trek
above the camp is yet another rejuvenating
experience with magnificent views to greet
you. Softer options are a quiet relaxing stroll
around the campsite and cosy naps under the
sun. Whatever you choose its bound to be
memorable and invigorating.
Location: Situated in the valley at Sadhupul, 12
kms away from Kandaghat on the Kandaghat-
Chail road, 17 kms before Chail in Himachal
Pradesh. Its well laid-out, safe, healthy and
easily accessible.
• Accommodation and facilities:
We have a Cluster of Fifteen 12’ x 12’ size, sturdy
tents with ground bedding and sleeping bags,
Bathing/washing and toilet facilities (Western),
and an open dining space.
Activities:
• Adventure Activities: Rappelling, Commando
Net, Burma Bridge, Flying Fox, Tyrolean
Traverse, Bridge slithering, Double rope bridge.
• Games: Volleyball, Badminton, Carom, and
Chess.
• Trekking
• Bird watching
• Bonfire with loads of games, singing and
interactive fun.
15
06
Address: 110, Aamrpali Apartments, Plot no-56, I.P. Extension, Patpar Ganj, Delhi -110092
Mobile: 9811213026/9873411989
Email: jeffrey@pinewoodtrails.com, alex@pinewoodtrails.com
Website: http://pinewoodtrails.com/contactus.html

Mount abu
A quiet oasis in a desert state
rajasthan
Mount Abu in
Rajasthan may not
qualify as a cool hill
station for those
used to the imposing Himalayas
or the diverse Western Ghats, but
it merits a place in the honours list
nonetheless.
Mount Abu may be a little
infamous for attracting weekend
tourists looking for a drink from
nearby Gujarat, the only state
where prohibition continues till
date. Overlook that, and you have
forests, moderate weather, religion
and adventure all thrown into one.
A roll call of its attractions reads as:
Dilwara Temples
Design and sculpture rarely get finer
than at these Jain temples - every nook
and corner seems like a labour of love
and skill. The temples are so called
because one’s heart, or Dil, has gone
into making these says the guide. The
oldest structure is the Vimal Vasahi
temple built by Vimal Shah, a minister
to the Bhima Dev I, the Solanki ruler
of Gujarat. Work started in 1031 AD
and took 14 years to complete at a
cost of Rs. 18.53 crores at that time;
1500 artisans and 1200 labourers were
employed for the purpose. Walk around
to marvel at other creations including
the Haathishala (Elephant Cell), Luna
Vasahi Temple, Pittalhar Temple and
Parshwanath Temple all built over a
500 year period.
Guru Shikhar
The highest point in Rajasthan at
5,653 feet, Guru Shikhar is located
15 kilometers from Mount Abu.
With a temple and ancient cave for
Lord Dattatreya, believed to be the
sixth incarnation of Lord Vishnu, this
location is never short of devotees.
Or picnickers. Offering 360 degrees
picturesque views, you can also shop for
tourist souvenirs here while munching
on cheese or butter flavoured special
‘American Sweetcorn’ as advertised
by vendors. For miracle seekers, go
to the ‘miracle’ cave of Santoshi Maa.
Buy Mal Kangni oil or Salamushi, a
vegetable grown locally. Selling at fifty
rupees a pack, it promises to rid you
of all trouble within fifteen days. Try at
your own risk though.
21

Guru Shikhar near Mount Abu
Achalgarh
‘Chai mein patti nahin to pine ka kya
maza, Saath mein Ravi guide nahin to
ghoomne ka kya mazaa’ (Just like tea
is no fun without tea leaves, it is no fun
to roam around without Ravi guide) is
how the 12 year old guide Ravi sells
his services the moment you reach
Achalgarh. With a promise to narrate
more poetry at the end of the tour of
the fort and temples which can take
half a day or more exploring. The fort,
now more of a ruin, was built by Raja
Kumbha in the fifteenth century. The
place is visited more for its religious
spots though. You have the Achaleswar
Temple where the toe of Lord Shiva
is worshipped. And the 500 year old
Jain temples of Lord Adeshwar with 14
imposing statues made of gold and five
other metals. As you explore the area,
possible only on foot on inclined terrain,
you can visit the temples of Chamunda
Devi, Mahakali and Meerabai as well
as the Gopichand Raja cave and the
Shravan Bhado pond. Each with their
own legend to tell.
Clockwise from left:
Sign at a ‘novelty’ gift
store at Guru Shikhar;
A sign at Guru Shikhar;
Sign for the miracle cave
of Santoshi Maa at Guru
Shikhar

Nakki Lake
Mount Abu is one of those towns
whose identity is linked to their lakes.
Legend says the Nakki Lake was dug
out by the Gods using their nails, or
Nakh, and hence its name and religious
significance. It is another matter that
the lake is used more for boating than
a holy dip; the attached food kiosks
and lawns ensure you have a good
picnic here. The clean and pristine lake
make boating a pleasure. If you come
early morning you can even spot many
species of birds.
Forests and Green Cover
If you are seeking a date with a hyena,
leopard, bear or a chinkara, head out
to Mount Abu’s wildlife sanctuary. Even
if you don’t spot any of these animals,
you are sure to see one of the hundreds
of langoor monkeys or over 250 species
of birds. Mount Abu is surrounded by
forests, and these seem to be on a
recovery path after stringent laws put
a check on rampant deforestation. The
green cover is a pleasure to the eye and
the soul, and also allow one to chart
their own hiking course. The trails are
not very well defined though and you
may want to take a guide along to avoid
losing your way.
Rock Formations
Some act of nature seems to have given
Mount Abu and the surrounding hills
an abundance of strange looking rock
formations. The most prominent one is
the Toad Rock looking like a toad ready
to plunge into the Nakki Lake. You have
others in various shapes resembling
some life forms like a skull or even
versions of modern art. It is almost
as if these were hand made; perhaps
the Gods decided to get creative after
they made Mount Abu as the legends
go. A traveller can make a game out
of spotting and clicking pictures of
these rocks to come up with the best
collection of all.
At the end of a day of sightseeing, go
to one of the sunset points and enjoy
the views of the skies changing colours
even as the valleys below come under
a shadow for the night. This would
make for a good ending to a day’s
sightseeing.
Salamushi being sold at Guru Shikhar
Statues of bulls with the ruined fort in the background
in Achalgarh
One of the rock formations

The Jain temples in Achalgarh
A golden statue of the Nandi Bull at Achaleshwar temple in Achalgarh

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Chor Minar
Delhi
Making an example
out of thieves. Ouch!
If you were a thief during the reign
of Alauddin Khilji (1296-1316), good
luck to you.
Things would be fine as long as you
were not caught and convicted. Else,
chances are you would be sent off to
the Chor Minar (Tower of Thieves) and
hanged. If that was not bad enough,
beheading followed (of course, by
this time you will not know what is
happening to you) and your head put
on a spear – and then put up for public
display through one of the 225 holes on
the Chor Minar. Ouch!
But if you want to know what real agony
is, ask the Mongols. They were a pain in
the you-know-what for Khilji, attacking
him in waves all through his reign.
Eventually, the emperor got disgusted,
defeated them comprehensively,
beheaded 8,000 of them and spiked
them in Chor Minar. Or at least that’s
how the legend goes. Another version:
There was already a settlement of
Mongols in Delhi (in the present day
area of Mongolpuri) when another
wave of Mongols came – but this time
in peace to join their brothers. But Khilji
saw them as a threat for the future and
marched them all to Chor Minar. Some
guys never win!
While you are there, count the holes on
the tower. But don’t let the creeps get
to you!
Metro: Hauz Khas or Green Park
Guide: It is in Hauz Khas Enclave in south Delhi. When on Aurobindo Marg and going from
Yusuf Sarai in the direction of Qutab Minar, you have to take a left turn a little before IIT
crossing. The security guards sometimes act queasy, but tell them you want to visit the Chor
Minar. They have no right to stop you.
26

Delhi
Khooni Darwaza
The gate with a bloody history
No single archway in India
has so much blood on
its hands as the Khooni
Darwaza (literally meaning the
Bloody Gate). It is actually not a
gate, but just an arch outside the
Firoz Shah Kotla, and built by Sher
Shah (1540-45).
Going back in time, Jahangir executed
the sons of Abdul Rahim Khan-i-Khana
after assuming power; the latter was
a favoured noble of his late father,
Akbar, and was supposedly opposed to
Jahangir being appointed Emperor. The
bodies were left to rot to be preyed
upon by birds. His grandson Aurangzeb,
who forcibly seized the throne from his
father Shahjahan, killed his own elder
brother Dara Shikoh and put his head
here on public display.
During the Great Revolt of 1857, the
British secured the surrender of the
then Emperor Bahadurshah Zafar. On
September 22, Captain Hodson was
taking the Emperor’s sons Mirza Mughal
and Mirza Khizr Sultan and grandson
Mirza Abu Bekar from Humayun’s Tomb
when a huge crowd gathered around
Khooni Darwaza as they were crossing
it. Fearing they would attack and free
the princes, the captain stripped them
to the waist and shot them point blank.
The bodies were subsequently left to
rot for days in the sun in front of the
kotwali (police station) in Chandni
Chowk.
The gate also saw mayhem during the
partition of India and Pakistan in 1947;
many refugees were murdered here by
rioting crowds while on the way to the
safety of Purana Qila (Old Fort) where
the Government had set up a camp for
them.
The gate may look docile, but it sure has
gory stories to tell. Carry some smelling
salts if they are too much for you.
Guide: The Khooni Darwaza is located between the entrances to the Maulana Azad Medical
College and Feroz Shah Kotla, Delhi’s main cricket stadium named after an adjoining fort by
the same name. The gate stands on the central divider of the Bahadurshah Zafar Marg, the
Fleet Street of Delhi where major newspapers are headquartered. The area is commonly
referred to as ITO, after the Income Tax Office building.
27

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What are PhotoTalkies?
Simply put, these are photo essays - only packing
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format. But it is best seen on an iPad.
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26

Old Delhi
Kinari Bazar
Where colours change with seasons
Most of what glitters is
not gold here, but this is
where you go to jazz up
for any occasion. Royally.
Shopkeepers trace Kinari Bazaar back
to the mid-17th century when Mughal
Emperor Shahjahan built the Red Fort
and the city of Shahajahanabad around
it – the area referred to as Chandni
Chowk or Old Delhi now. Called the
Anarkali Bazaar at the time, royal ladies
would come here in their palanquins to
shop, especially for fabrics embroidered
with zari (traditionally threads of gold
and silver; you also have them with
cheaper metals now).
Locals call it the Rang Badalta Hua
Bazaar or the market that keeps
changing its colours. And it sure does.
The wares on offer vary with the festivals
of Raksha Bandhan, Janmashtami,
Dusshera and Diwali – and for the great
Indian wedding season.
Grooms and brides can hire or buy
their traditional wedding dresses here
including sarees, lehngas, bridal veils,
sherwani suits (long coats buttoned
up to the neck for grooms) or the
sehra (headgear for groom) as well
as jewelry, churas (bangles worn by
bride), garlands made of silver and gold
confetti (some with crisp, real currency
notes for creating an impression) – it is
vital to go to Kinari Bazaar for the most
important day of one’s life.
And there is more. If you want to
hide behind a mask, you can pick
up a costume here. You can get one
for different animals, deities and
mythological figures – in demand
29

during festive seasons, for theatre and
by Bollywood (the Monkey Man suit
was in high demand after one was used
in the flick, Delhi 6). Other pickings
include decorative streamers, artificial
flowers, gift wrappings of all kinds,
fancy lights – the list goes on to suit all
tastes.
It’s even more fun during the festive
season. Rakhees (bands tied by sisters
on brothers’ wrists on Raksha Bandhan
as a promise of protection by the
latter) of every conceivable design can
be bought here. During Dusshera and
Diwali, you can pick up costumes, mock
weapons used by the warriors of the
time and decorative candles and diyas
(wax and oil lamps). These festivals
mark the victory of good over evil and
the homecoming of Hindu God Rama.
During Janmashtami, you can celebrate
the birthday of Lord Krishna with things
to make Jhankis – decorative altars
depicting His birth and life.
This is also a place to bump into a lot of
Page 3 designers and foreign tourists;
we met some Argentinians who buy
beads, make them into fancy necklaces
and sell them on the streets of Europe
during the summer. And then they are
back to India to backpack around with
the money.
Shopping Tip: Browse patiently
before you get what you want, and
bargain hard.
Walk past the shops selling the above
and you will reach the beads market
– of all shapes, sizes, colours and
designs. Pick these up and make your
own jewelry or add some zing to your
wardrobe.
Metro: Chawri Bazaar or Chandni Chowk
Guide: Kinari Bazaar is located off Dariba Kalan (the jewelers’ and silver market) – the latter
can be accessed both from the road leading to Jama Masjid and Chandni Chowk (the main
thoroughfare). You can come in from the opposite end from Paranthewali Gali.
30

We travel.
And come back with stories and images.
And we put all these great holiday ideas as the
t r a v e l l i s t
t r a v e l l i s t
ajay jain
1-25
t r a v e l l i s t
ajay jain
1-25
t r a v e l l i s t
ajay jain
1-25
t r a v e l l i s t
ajay jain
1-25
t r a v e l l i s t
ajay jain
1-25
The Kunzum Travel List is a compilation of great holiday ideas for you to
choose from. From all across India, Nepal and the rest of the subcontinent.
Holidays you will cherish, and remember for a lifetime. Something you will
share with others and evoke envy - prompting friends to ask you more so
they too can head out on the same path. All put together in the form of
books for you.
Want to have a great time travelling? Visit
http://kunzum.com/travellist
The Kunzum Travel List is currently available as an e-book in PDF format and for the iPad and Kindle.
27

Jordan
Wadi Rum
A Vast, Echoing and God-Like Desert
Wadi Rum in Jordan offers one of the most magnificent desert
landscapes in the world, and was described by the Lawrence
of Arabia as ‘vast, echoing and God-like.’ Mountains of sandstone
and granite rise from open valleys, reaching heights of 1,700 metres.
Sand and wind have made these rock features fascinating to watch.
An evening desert safari
You cannot be in Jordan and not do a
safari across this desert. I went for an
evening one lasting a couple of hours,
but you really need a few days to
explore all attractions.
The tour starts at the visitor centre
where you are first shown a short
film, and given an opportunity to buy
local handicrafts. And then you are
off in open jeeps that look like 4×4
though I doubt they have the power.
But they work. In my case, a Mickey
Mouse blanket had been spread on
the top as sun protection. Cute! As we
drove around, so did the landscape
with us! Each rock feature was unique
and looking different as every passing
minute gradually changed the evening
colours. We stopped when a photo
opportunity came along – this meant
every few minutes.
The area of 720 square kms is virtually
untouched by humans, and is still home
to many nomadic Bedouin tribes; their
goat hair tents and goat herds are still
a feature of the landscape. Wadi Rum
also has a fragile eco-system, and is
home to small populations of Syrian
Wolf, Striped Hyena, Nubian Ibex
and many species of insects, small
mammals, reptiles and migratory
birds of prey. An attempt is also being
made to reinstate the Arabian Oryx,
nearly extinct now with excessive
hunting. They are currently being bred
in captivity to be eventually released
in the wild. Not so long back, these
animals could be seen roaming freely in
the desert. Unfortunately, I did not see
any animal life while I was there.
32

27

Camel safaris with
cheerful Bedouins
I went exploring Wadi Rum in a jeep
safari but would recommend you try
a camel safari too. I would have too
if I had the time. You can do so for
any period of time – an hour to many
days. They are conducted by the local
Bedouins – a cheerful lot! They allowed
me to click them, and not one of them
pestered me for money or for booking
a ride. They just kept grinning and
smiling.
And I did push my luck to get good
angles with the camels – getting close to
their backsides (thank God no vapours,
explosions or gooey stuff came my
way) and trying to get their dentures
up close in the image foreground (none
spat or bit me – but someone needs to
present them with Colgate!).
Bedouins offering camel safaris across the Wadi Rum
The mesmerizing sunsets
Wadi Rum is famous for its sunsets but
you need to be positioned at a good
vantage point in time. Find yourself a
big rock, and clamber over it carefully
for a view of the horizons around you.
Already running late, our SUV refused
to go over a sand dune just short of our
chosen rock. It did not have enough
power to go over the hump. We
reversed, and raced in from a longer
distance than before. Though we
managed to cover a few more inches
this time but apparently not enough.
And then we really hit it – and voila,
we made it even if all the bones got
realigned in the resulting flying ship act.
We parked below what seemed like a
rock hundreds of metres high, and had
to run / trudge our way to the top on
a soft sand dune again. Trust me, it is
no easy task walking on these dunes
especially when laden with heavy
camera equipment making your centre
of gravity all wobbly. But once on top,
there was no looking back.
In front of me lay an endless desert,
accentuated with a rising rock monoliths
standing all by themselves. And behind
one range the sun was setting – as the
colours changed around me and the air
Sunset at Wadi Rum
34

got cooler, I could only go click click.
Nature was at work, painting a canvas
that is best preserved in one’s memory.
Photographs are only a poor copy. I
wish the travel plan included spending
the night sleeping on the rock – and
waking with the sunrise. Another time!
Useful Info
•Website: www.wadirum.jo
•Local Tel: 009623 2090600, Fax:
009623 2032586
•Getting There: Wadi Rum lies in the
south western corner of Jordan 58
kilometers north of the coastal town of
Aqaba. It can be reached easily by main
roads from Amman (3.5 hrs), Aqaba (1
hr) and Petra (1.5 hrs). Daily internal
air-flights operate between Amman
and Aqaba. Public transport is very
limited.
The setting sun at Wadi Rum
While in Wadi Rum, you can plan the following activities:
• Climb high on one of the many mountains, including Jebel Rum, one of the highest for stunning views. You need to be fit,
and book in advance as only limited permits are granted.
• Camp – pitch your own tent or stay in one of the Bedouin style camps with toilets, showers, meals, entertainment and
housekeeping. Star gaze while you are at it – the night sky is lighted with celebrations.
• Take a Safari on a camel, horseback or on foot – these can last a few hours to a few days to your choosing. Be prepared for
the heat and sand storms, and take a guide along. Don’t forget ample water, hats and other supplies.
• Shop for traditional handicrafts made by the Bedouins.
27

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HOTEL REVIEW
Wild Grass Lodge
Kaziranga National Park, Assam
The Kaziranga National Park is
one of the best forest reserves
in the world – and you have to
stay at the Wild Grass Lodge for a truly
satisfying and wholesome experience.
The architecture and landscaping of
the property makes you feel a part of
the forest even though you are in the
villages surrounding the reserve. There
is an old world charm about the place,
rare to find nowadays. And their pricing
will be a pleasant surprise. Book direct
as agents tend to overcharge under the
guise of a complete package.
Contact
tel: +91.361.2630465, +91. 88767747357
mail: wildgrasskaziranga@gmail.com
• Service: Terrific. I asked for the best
guides as I wanted to do some serious
photography, and they made sure I
got someone who knew his job. They
even got me a vehicle to myself. For
those who have been to such places in
the past, there is nothing worse than
being guided by someone who does
not know his job. The other staff does a
commendable job of keeping the place
clean.
• Rooms: With their wooden décor,
it is nothing short of charming and
romantic. Even if it is not plush.
You have comfortable beds, lounge
chairs and electric points for charging
appliances. Lighting is deliberately kept
dim. Bathrooms have running hot and
cold water. All the sheets and towels
are very clean too.
• Location: Does not get better
unless they allow them inside the
forest – but that is out of bounds.
• Amenities: Very good guides and
jeep / elephant safaris. An all day
restaurant serving local and Chinese
cuisines.
• Liked Best: The location,
architecture, interiors and landscaping.
• Liked Least: You cannot grudge
such locations.
• Food Quality: Very good. But
order well in time; they need an hour
to prepare meals. And still be willing to
be patient.
• Tariffs: Rs. 2,300 for a double room
+ Rs. 65 tax including breakfast. Meals
are very reasonably priced. Do check
rates at the time of booking. (Beware
when you book through agents – they
somehow charge many times over)
38

39

Responding to a growing desire among today’s travellers for journeys beyond
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Short and intense, our breakaways get you
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26

HOTEL REVIEW
Soulitude
Ramgarh, Uttarakhand
There is such a thing as a perfect
getaway. It is called Soulitude.
True to its name, you can enjoy
the Himalayas in solitude - and feel a
certain stirring in your soul that may
have gone dormant in the hustle and
bustle of existence.
Perched on a mountainside off the
highway leading to Mukteshwar, the
landscape from Soulitude dips into
valleys below before rising to offer
panoramic views of snow clad mountain
peaks above. You can actually hear
silence all around, accentuated by lack
of televisions in the rooms.
The air is clean and crisp all year round
- but monsoons can be very wet while
snow in late winters can be refreshing.
When there is no cloud cover, the skies
are literally lit bright by stars. There are
multiple trails - on road and off road -
leading away from Soulitude. Take your
pick and visit the Ramgarh market, or go
down to the old bungalows maintained
by Neemrana Hotels. Push yourself and
climb up to the Devi Mandir (temple) -
reward awaits in the form of 360 degree
views of the Himalayas. A hike through
forests and fields gets you to some old
and broken stone structures at Tagore
Top; Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore
is said to have spent time here for his
writings. And wherever you go, you can
be sure to spot exotic and beautiful birds.
41

A sit-out overlooking the mountains
The lounge
View from Soulitude
The retreat itself is a work of art and a labour of love by owner Manish Chandra.
He started this project as a home away from home in Delhi, and ended up
creating a gift for the traveller. Large windows and decks allow you to soak in the
surrounding beauty without a break. The furniture and interiors are themselves
soothing to the body, mind and soul, with perfectly designed fireplaces adding
to the warmth of the place.
One of the bathrooms
A bedroom overlooking the ‘Secret Garden’

The path to the water pool at Soulitude by the Riverside
The water pool at Soulitude by the Riverside
One of the many decks
Soulitude by the Riverside: A Bonus
One of the bedrooms
The bridge to Soulitude by the Riverside
Go for a 45 minute drive followed by a 30 minute hike
over streams and a 1910 quaint suspension bridge
built by the British - and you will literally come across
an oasis in a forest. Soulitude by the Riverside stands
adjacent to a water pool and a waterfall, visible
only on Google Earth otherwise. Two bedrooms are
available here to stay, which you will only reluctantly
check out of. Even if you don’t spend any nights here,
you must visit for a day picnic.
Meals are all home cooked, and Soulitude sure has
great cooks. And their staff takes care of all your
needs in the most courteous manner.
Soulitude is where you go to clean the pores of your
senses, to unleash your creativity, to feel rejuvenated
- and wishing you had a home like this of your own.

A bedroom at Soulitude by the Riverside
Useful Info
Accommodation: 12 bedrooms
Distance from Delhi: 325 kms (200 miles)
How to get there: By road or train to Kathgodam
followed by a cab ride of 75 minutes
The bath in one of the rooms at Soulitude by the Riverside - this rock and the flowing
water on it have been left untouched from before the construction
Website: www.soulitude.in | Email: contact@soulitude.in | Tel: +91.99993 30379
26
Address: Gagar, Ramgarh, Uttarakhand

The Wanderer’s Palate
Elai Adai
By Meena Vaidyanathan
It was during a random net search that I chanced upon a really
interesting article about a “Sattvik Traditional Food Festival” held in
the city of Ahmedabad, Gujarat, at the Indian Institute of Management
(IIM) campus, organised by the Society for Research and Initiatives for
Sustainable Technologies and Institutions. The objective was to introduce
to the largely urban populace some very-prevalent-in-the-past but now
forgotten cereals and food items. And I couldn’t help thinking, “There
are some amazing food items and delicacies that I have come across
in people’s homes that are no longer available in restaurants or other
popular food areas, and over time they might actually become extinct!”
This column is a small endeavour to share some of those culinary experiences I have had
with the readers so you might remember to look out for these specialty dishes when you are
travelling to that particular region of India.
The first time I heard of Elai Adai
(literally translated as ‘Leaf
Pancake’) was when my favourite
uncle came visiting from the US a few
years ago. Living in Delhi all my life
and visiting Kerala only for annual
holidays ensured that our time to really
experience specialty foods was always
limited; as a child, I wasn’t very choosy
or appreciative of what I was eating.
But my uncle’s stories around how
some of his nicer childhood memories
were entwined around this delicious
sweet got me excited about trying this
out, especially when I was acquiring a
more discerning taste for food!
But living in army cantonments in
remote places isn’t often the best
place to start experimenting with
ancient foods of India! But not one to
be discouraged by such trivialities, and
with some help from the internet, I set
about learning more about Elai Adai and
with time, acquired skills to turn out a
mean one as well! So let me share with
you the traditional recipe for Elai Adai
and my ‘quickie’ version for those who
don’t want to miss out tasting these
yummy foods only because it’s tough
to organise traditional ingredients.
Elai Adai is one of the popular sweets in
Kerala. It is a stuffed pancake steamed
in a banana leaf. The sweetness comes
from the stuffing which is essentially a
jack fruit jam called ‘Chakka Varatti.’
45

The traditional recipe
Ingredients
Jackfruit jam: 250g
Jaggery: ¾ cup
Grated fresh coconut: 2 cups
Raw rice: ¾ cup
Boiled rice: ¾ cup
Oil (preferably coconut): 1 tbsp
Banana leaves: 1 per elai adai size of
8”x8”
Salt: a pinch
Procedure
Soak the rice for 5 hours and grind to a
thick smooth paste. Add the salt while
grinding. It should be of spreading
consistency. Add the oil to this paste
and mix well.
To make the filling, melt the jaggery
with 1 cup of water, boil and add the
jackfruit jam. When the jackfruit jam
is of spreading consistency, add the
grated coconut, mix well and remove
from the stove. This filling can be
refrigerated for up to one month.
The banana leaves need to be cut in
convenient squares of 4 inch sides and
should be mildly heated by holding
them over a low flame. The point of
this is to make the leaf pliable.
Now take each leaf, spread a ladle full
of rice flour as a thin layer. After this,
spread 2 tbsp of prepared filling on top
of this layer, but covering only about
¾th of the layer. Fold the banana leaf
into half, fold the edges once again to
seal the edges and place it in a steamer.
Repeat for all the leaves, and steam for
25-30 minutes. When done, the Elai
Adai comes off the leaf rather easily
without sticking to the sides.
My version of the Elai Adai
Getting the Chakka Varatti (Jackfruit
jam) isn’t the easiest thing in the world.
If it’s tough to find, simply ignore it
and prepare a stuffing with just the
jaggery and coconut. Fresh coconut is
preferred, but there was this one time
that I prepared the Elai Adai stuffing
using dried coconut shavings as well.
It isn’t the same, but well, it can make
you feel good too!
The banana leaves are a must though.
I have tried this recipe using many
other substitutes but it never quite
fits the bill. One can also steam the
Adais in a microwave using appropriate
contraptions, though I have to admit
there is something special about the
traditional steaming methods. The
microwave somehow just sucks away
all the moisture which gives the dish
a rubbery taste! But the best way to
eat it is when you can get someone
to make it lovingly for you and have it
overlooking the backwaters in Kerala.
So the next time you are visiting God’s
own country, don’t forget to sample
this traditional and fast-disappearingfrom-restaurant-menus
and utterly
yummy Elai Adai!
Got more queries? Send them across to Meena at meena.vaidyanathan@gmail.com.
You may also follow Meena’s blog, www.lifeintwohours.com.

A personal invitation from the
Andamans
Umang Sonthalia
Photo by AB Miller

Photo by Aveek Mukherjee
Are you one of those who have heard
of but not been to the Andamans?
Then high time you did so this winter.
And I give my reasons for the same:
The Beaches
The 572 islands comprising the Andamans
boast of hundreds of deserted palmfringed
beaches where you can bathe
in warm tropical waters. Tourists end up
crowding only a few of these. The ones
not be missed: Radhanagar on Havelock
Island (voted the No. 1 beach in Asia),
Beach No. 5 on Havelock, Lalaji Bay on
Long Island, Merk Bay on North Passage
Island near Long Island, Ross and Smith
Islands joined by a sandbar near Diglipur
and Butler Bay on Little Andaman.
Diving and Snorkeling
For all those adrenaline junkies, this is
THE perfect place. A divers’ paradise,
where beautiful opaque emerald waters
and the rich marine and coral life that
reside in them make it an unforgettable
experience. Though the main diving
season is roughly between November to
April, it is still possible to jump in during
the monsoons as long as the boats can
go out. The islands also offer superb
opportunities for snorkeling, with many
resorts offering equipment for hire.
Some recommended diving operators
include Dive India based in Havelock
and Neil Island, Andaman Bubbles at
Wild Orchid in Havelock, Barefoot Scuba
in Havelock, Blue Planet Scuba in Long
Island and Planet Scuba based in Port
Blair.
Geography and Wildlife
The islands form the peaks of the Arakan
Yuma, a mountain range that extends
from Myanmar (Burma) all the way to
Sumatra in Indonesia. So you have an
ancient landscape where forests rise
steeply from the sea and which is home
to many endemic plant and animal
species which have evolved in isolation.
Animals unique to the islands include
the Andaman Wild Pig, Crab-eating
Macaque, Masked Palm Civet and species
of Tree Shrews and Bats. The islands are
also home to over 100 endemic species
including the Emerald Nicobar Pigeon,
Megapodes and Hawabills or Swiftlets
which you can see roosting beneath boat
Photo by Matt Burns
jetties. Oliver Ridley Turtles have created
many nesting places for themselves,
rivers and mangrove creeks are inhabited
by saltwater Crocodiles and Dolphins can
be seen in the seas around Long Island.
Sadly, Dugongs are only a rare sight
nowadays.
The forests have some wonderful native
tree species, including Padauk, a very
valuable hardwood and Garjun, a graceful
tree with a wide base to the trunk.
Come, relax in the Andamans. You will
not want to go back.
Recommended
Places to Stay
Eco Villas in Havelock
Aashiaanaa Rest Home in Port Blair
Pristine Beach Resort in Diglipur
Blue View in Little Andaman
Blue Planet in Long Island
Megapode Nest in Port Blair
Fortune Resort in Port Blair
Barefoot Resort in Havelock
Umang Sonthalia is a student, entrepreneur, and a marketing and networking junkie. He has lived in the Andamans for over eight years, and his
parents run a small restaurant there. He publishes a great online resource, www.go2andaman.com.

From the Horse’s
(Biker’s) Mouth!
Rajiv Pradhan
Being an avid biker for over 10 years,
I struggled to collate equipment
and gear from various places for
my own rides. It all seemed such a waste
of time and effort. This is when I decided
to take the bull by the horns and open my
own store for biking gear in Vasant Kunj
in New Delhi.
The idea was to provide a one-stopshop
for riders, and provide them all the
gear and equipment they needed. This
includes jackets, helmets, gloves, biking
luggage and also smaller but important
things like medicine kit, tool kit bungee
cords/nets etc.
Meandering India, as we call ourselves,
stocks reputed Indian and international
brands including Cramster, DSG, Scoyco,
Alpine Stars, AXO, Nuvo Daijy and more.
We also organize motorcycling tours
across North India and have gradually
also added trekking items like sleeping
mats, tents, sleeping bag, bottles etc.
from brands such as Quechua, Tribord,
Solognac, b’Twin, Kalenji, Geologic and
more.
We also want to run an honest business.
I personally test 99 per cent of the
gear before recommending it to my
customers. We can thus communicate
the shortcomings as well as the strong
points of the same. We recently rode
to Spiti to test out some gear like the
Cramster Eclipse, DSG Nero Jackets,
Alpine Stars GORE-TEX touring boots and
Cramster and Scoyco riding pants - they
all passed the litmus test!
The Alpine stars GORE-TEX boots didn’t
let any water through even when we
had to cross some of the infamous
flooded ‘nallahs’ where the water was
upto our knees. As for the jackets and
pants, we were quite pleased with the
water proofing. The incessant rain from
Swarghat to Karnal made the testing
even more reliable. Water flowed out
smoothly from the Quechua Poncho
– it’s a steal for Rs. 399. This is a musthave
for all bikers out in the rain. And my
‘ever-faithful’ Cramster Stallion Saddle
Bag and Tank Bag served the whole ride
really well!
BREEZER 4.0
AXO Primato II Black
Alpinestars Web Gore
Alpinestars Jet Gloves
T2 tent

Kunzum La (pass)
Poncho (Small)
Indicative Price Range
Jackets: Rs. 3,800 – 16,999
Gloves: Rs. 1,100 – 6,000
Helmets: Rs. 4,750 – 14,000
Tank Bags: Rs. 1,750 – 2,800
Mail: enquiry@meanderingindia.com
Mobile: +91.9810168402
Website: http://meanderingindia.com
Pants: Rs. 4,950 – 7,499
Boots: Rs. 7,499 – 14,990
Saddle Bags: Rs. 2,100 – 2,200

A backpack
for Cyclists
Headed out for a cycling expedition or a trek/hike? Try the Camelbak
Hydration bag USP (model: Blowfish).
It provides you hands-free hydration without the hassle of carrying water
bottles. The Blowfish model has a capacity of three litres of water, enough
to keep you going for 3-4 hours of strenuous cycling or hiking. The ease of
drinking with the pipe / valve also encourages the user to drink more water,
thus minimizing the risk of dehydration.
Recommended by Mohit of Adventure 18, who also retails
the backpack at his store. Contact: sales@adventure18.com;
+91.11.26878888 / 8890; http://www.adventure18.com;
18, Satya Niketan, New Delhi, India 110021.
Say
Cheese
& make it!
Venture into enchanting beauty and uncover one of the most serene
countrysides at this cheese making farmstay in Coonoor in Tamil
Nadu. It will take all of two days for you to learn to make the cheese.
Listen to the birds, spot bisons around the farm if lucky, explore the poetic
beauty around with a guide, experience a holistic and self-sustaining
lifestyle when there. Familiarise yourself with the pond ecosystems, make
abode bricks and rear farm animals.
The two-day cheese making course costs Rs. 5,000. The daily accommodation charge ranges from Rs. 2,000 -
4,000. For more, visit http://highontravel.com/farmstay or write to info@highontravel.com.

A Plateful of Pranpur
The village of Pranpur is about 110
kms from Jhansi, located on a hill,
southwest of Betwa river in Madhya
Pradesh. Though the village is primarily
known for the famous Chanderi silk, there
are many other crafts being practiced
here. The nearby town of Chanderi (3
km) has loads of history on offer. The
only accommodation is a beautiful stone
guesthouse set in a mango orchard just
outside the village.
Explore Central India’s Bundelkhand
region and experience “another” India
which is yet unexplored.
• Take a crash course in weaving from
stringing the loom, to working it, to
adding designs - it’s an intricate art!
• Stay at the Amraee Rural Resort set in a
mango orchard in Pranpur
• Explore 8th century monasteries,
prehistoric caves
• Go on a forest trek, spot some rock
paintings
• Join in the Bundelkhandi folk dance,
Raee
• Take a bullock cart ride around the
village.
Book a weekend package that typically
includes:
• Pick up and drop at Lalitpur station
• Guided walking tour of Pranpur where
you also meet craftspersons
• Raee / Sehra (folk dance) performance
on the first evening
• Drive down to Rajghat Dam to see the
sunrise, and back
• One day guided tour around Chanderi
• All meals, coffee and tea.
Weekend Tariff: Rs. 2,950 per person
for 2 persons (double occupancy); Rs.
1,990 per person for 4 persons or more
(double occupancy)
For more visit http://www.travelanotherindia.com/pranpur.html or contact piyush@travelanotherindia.com
Trekking ideas for
the wandering mind
Photo by Kabir Pradhan
Archit Raheja of Geck & Co does not
need an excuse or provocation to
go roughing it out - here are a few
treks he recommends, and is willing to
take you along on:
Almora District
Almora district blows you away with
views of snow-capped mountains and
valleys, beautiful temples and fruits
grown in the region. The beautifully laid
out tarmac makes for adrenalin pumping
cycling tracks. But be careful - this is
leopard country, and avoid venturing out
into the night.
Deo Tibba
Deo Tibba is a beautiful 6001 metre high
peak situated in the Pir Panjal range
in Himachal Pradesh. It consists of an
extensive ice cap, with the actual climb
being a snow hump accessible once the
edge of the ice plateau is reached. For
climbers, it is literally a high to be able to
overcome the 6,000 metre mark. But it is
also a technical peak, and best attempted
with a guide if you are not an experienced
climber.
Contact Geck & Co Adventurers at archit@geck-co.com / +91.9818834004 or online at http://facebook.com/Geckco

Viswaprasad Raju is a Hyderabad-based advertising professional, and is also a random sketchcrawler, a weekly cartoonist and an occasional
travel writer. He collects cheap souvenirs like coasters and dreams of expensive holiday breaks to a National Park (any state) or anywhere in
Europe (any country). Presently he is working on a screenplay for a feature film.
Connect with him at viswaprasadraju@gmail.com or find him at
http://facebook.com/viswaprasadraju and http://hyderabadadvtg.blogspot.com.

BOOK REVIEW
Being a Scot
Scotland, as seen by Bond, James Bond
By Nimish Dubey
Whatever you associate Sir Sean
Connery with, it is certainly
not writing about a country,
even his own. The man, who many (us at
Kunzum.com included) consider
to have been not just the first
but the best Bond of them all,
however, does have a writing
streak in him. And it has come
to the fore in Being a Scot, a
book which he has been written
in collaboration with Murray
Grigor.
We need to get one thing clear
at the very outset – this is NOT a
Sean Connery autobiography. So
if you are looking for juicy bits of
Hollywood gossip and filmy talk,
give this book a thorough miss.
Nay, while Being a Scot does have
autobiographical passages –
especially in the beginning when
Connery describes his childhood
– this is basically a book about
Scotland, written by a Scot. The
tone of the book varies between
the simple and the scholarly.
There are Connery’s personal
anecdotes about places and
people (why he supports Rangers, for
instance, and why he still speaks in a
Scottish accent) to details of Scottish
history and tradition, right from the
formation of the country. One strongly
suspects that the historical research
bits have been dug up by Connery’s coauthor
(who is a writer in his own right)
to which the former Bond man has added
garnishes of his personal experience. And
yes, there is a chapter on movies too!
But the strongest point of the entire
book are its photographs. There are
dozens of them, in black and white and
colour, and even some reproductions of
famous paintings. And what makes them
really special is the fact that Connery
is in so many of them – you actually
see him progress from the raw callow
youth that he once was to the almost
elderly statesman of cinema that he is
today. Yes, there are pictures of famous
Scottish landmarks and people, and very
good pictures they are too, but really, it
is Connery’s pictures whether it is acting
in a Shakespearean play or teeing off at
Augusta or just modelling when he was
really young that take the cake!
But does this mix of research,
reminiscence and pictures work? Well,
much to our surprise, it does. Being a Scot
manages to hit the perfectly delightful
middle ground between serious history
and affectionate travelogue. The book is
very well-written and an easy read. Of
course, what makes it even more special
is the fact that one knows that
this is Sean Connery talking of his
country. Although you can sense
Connery’s pride in his nation,
there is very little jingoism here.
And of course, he never lets
you forget his humble roots –
“Leaving school at thirteen, I
got to know the divided selves
of Edinburgh almost building
by building on my morning milk
rounds.” - he writes while talking
about Scotland’s most famous
city. And in case you did not
know, yes, Connery did deliver
milk before he got into acting
mode.
Yes, the initial chapters can get a
bit tedious – obviously Connery
cannot comment too much
on early Scottish history – but
this is more than compensated
by the latter half of the book,
which is eminently readable,
even if you are not interested
in Scotland. This is not a story of a land
written by a celebrity, but a book about a
country written by a genuine patriot who
happens to be well-known. Yes, we did
read it because Connery wrote it, rather
than because it was about Scotland. But
in the end, we ended up knowing and
liking the country and wanting to visit it
because of our decision.
One really wishes some Indian
“celebrities” would do the same for their
country. In the meantime, read Being a
Scot. Whether you are a Connery fan or
not. For Rs 550, it is a steal.
55

address: T-49, GF, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110 016, India
telephone: +91.11.2651 3949 | +91.9650 702 777 |
website: http://kunzum.com/travelcafe | mail@kunzum.com
Open Tuesday - Sunday, 11:00 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. (Mondays Closed)
PHEW!
Finally a place for travellers to meet.
In the real world - not on social media.
To simply bum around. Exchange travel stories. Make travel plans.
Read up & buy travel books. Post travelogues, images & videos. pick up
photographic art. Even write books.
Over coffee and cookies. And free Wi-Fi. Only at the
T r a v e l C a f e

T r a v e l C a f e
When travellers come calling at the Kunzum Travel Cafe, they often leave a note
behind for us. Here are some from the wall. Come over for coffee, and write one too.

The Handwritten Travelogue
We love to hear travel stories from our guests when they visit the Kunzum Travel Cafe
in New Delhi. Better still, we like them to write the same in our scrapbook for others to
read - like what you see here. Do you have one to share too? We are waiting...

PEEP PEEP DON’T SLEEP
A book on funny road signs and advertisements with captions
and commentary by Ajay Jain
If you thought road signs are only meant to guide and inform, think again.
The ones on Indian highways are in a zone of their own. They shower you with words of wisdom,
keep your mind sharp as you unravel their cryptic messages, tickle your imagination, amuse you and
entertain you. In public interest, they lend a hand to Alcoholics Anonymous. Since journeys are meant
to be a pleasure, they remind you to ‘Smile Please.’
The entertainment for the traveler does not stop at this. There are the limitless public notices, outdoor
advertisements and storefront signs with their own idiosyncrasies and eccentricities. Who needs comic
strips in this country?
Ajay Jain drove thousands of miles to put together this collection of signs. With a bit of witty commentary
thrown in, this book will be a journey unlike any other you may have undertaken. Resulting in you
letting out a ‘Peep Peep’ of delight.
For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit
www.peeppeepdontsleep.com
Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle
36

Postcards from Ladakh
A Pictorial Travelogue by Ajay Jain
Postcards from Ladakh is a collection of frames - picture postcards, if you will
- frozen circa 2009, when the author drove for over 10,000 kms (6,000 miles)
across the remote and fascinating region of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas.
Neither guidebook nor encyclopedia, it is intended to give you a flavour of this
high altitude cold desert.
You will also meet a few Ladakhis in these pages. And see the land they live in, the
faith they live by, the hope they live on…Each of them will spontaneously greet
you with a cheerful Julley and invite you to be part of their culture and society.
No Ladakhi is a stranger. We just haven’t had the time to meet them all...
For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit
www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh
Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle

Since 2007, Kunzum has served as an important guide for travellers planning journeys
in India and the subcontinent - and some international destinations too.
INTRODUCTIONS FIRST…
Kunzum is a high altitude pass in the Lahaul Spiti region of Himachal Pradesh in India.
And the inspiration behind the brand that is all about memorable travel experiences.
Our journey started in 2007 as a travel blog by writer and photographer, Ajay Jain. And
we have crossed many milestones - literally and figuratively - since then.
KUNZUM.COM
An independent, objective and one of the most trusted online travel information websites
in India. A unique style of writing, peppered with anecdotes and illustrated with high
quality photographs and videos, have won the site a fan following of tens of thousands of
travellers. More at http://kunzum.com.
THE KUNZUM TRAVEL MAG
A u n i q u e p r o d u c t , i t i s a m o n t h l y e - m a g a v a i l a b l e a s a P D F, f o r t h e i P a d a n d
K i n d l e , a n d f o r o n l i n e r e a d i n g w i t h f l i p p i n g p a g e s o n I s s u u . c o m . S u b s c r i p t i o n i s
F R E E a t h t t p : / / k u n z u m . c o m / m a g .
PUBLISHING
We p u b l i s h e n g a g i n g a n d q u a l i t y t r a v e l b o o k s a n d g u i d e s i n b o t h t r a d i t i o n a l
f o r m a t s a s w e l l a s e - b o o k s ( f o r t h e i P a d , A m a z o n ’s K i n d l e , o t h e r m o b i l e r e a d e r s
a n d a l l c o m p u t e r s ) . M o r e a t h t t p : / / k u n z u m . c o m / b o o k s .
CURATOR OF COLLECTIBLE PHOTOGRAPHIC ART
Available for your walls at home, office or resort and also as stock imagery
for publishing and promotional materials. All printed on archival paper to last
generations. The prints are also on display at the Kunzum Travel Café. Check the
collection at http://kunzumgallery.com.
KUNZUM TRAVEL CAFÉ
Another unique offering from Kunzum - a bricks and mortar place for the travel-minded to
come together as a community, a sort of Face-to-Facebook network. Located in Hauz Khas
Village in New Delhi, guests can hang around, read travel books, use free Wi-Fi, participate
in events, exchange stories, enjoy music, buy photographic art, post travelogues and make
travel plans. They can even order tea, coffee and cookies - and pay what they like. More at
http://kunzum.com/travelcafe.
CONTACT US
Ajay Jain | ajay@ajayjain.com | +91.99100 44476
Shruti Sharma | shruti@kunzum.com | +91.98119 84545
LINKS
Online
http://kunzum.com
F a c e b o o k
h t t p : / / f a c e b o o k . c o m / k u n z u m
T w i t t e r
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Y o u T u b e
h t t p : / / y o u t u b e . c o m / k u n z u m
V i m e o
h t t p : / / v i m e o . c o m / k u n z u m

ABOUT AJAY JAIN
Ajay Jain is a full time writer, journalist
and photographer based in New Delhi in
India. He is not limited in his medium of
expression, equally comfortable writing for
newspapers and magazines, as well as his
own books and blogs.
Starting his writing career in 2001, he has
been covering business, technology and
youth affairs before deciding to focus
wholly on travel writing. He pursues his
passion by being on the road as much as
he can.
He has written three books, the latest
being Postcards from Ladakh (http://
www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh),
a pictorial travelogue on Ladakh. His
first, Let’s Connect: Using LinkedIn to Get
Ahead at Work, is a management book on
professional networking using the world’s
most popular professional networking site
LinkedIn.com. It was published in early
2008. His other book, and his first travel
book, Peep Peep Don’t Sleep (http://www.
peeppeepdontsleep.com), is a collection of
funny road signs and advertisements.
Contact
Email: ajay@ajayjain.com
Mobile: +91.99100 44476
LINKS
Facebook
http://facebook.com/ajayjain9
T witter
http://twitter.com/ajayjain
LinkedIn
http://www.linkedin.com/in/
ajayjain9
He has worked for and written columns
for national publications in India
including The Hindustan Times, Mint,
Financial Express, Indian Management
(Business Standard), Outlook Business,
Deccan Herald, Mumbai Mirror (Times of
India), Discover India, Swagat, Asian Age
and Rediff.com. He has also edited a
youth newspaper, The Campus Paper.
Prior to taking up writing, he has worked
in the Information Technology and Spor ts
Management sectors. He holds degrees
Mechanical Engineering (Delhi College
of Engineering, 1992), Management
(Fore School of Management, 1994)
and Journalism (Cardiff U niversity, UK,
2002). His schooling was at St. Columba’s
School in New Delhi.