Raven Guides: Germany - Passau

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Passau The small city on the Austrian border is where the rivers Danube, Inn and Ilz meet at one of Germany’s legendary locations. The rest is history. Like the rivers, German-Austrian, Italian and even some Czech influences meet in Passau. An ancient regional salt trade supplied Bohemia as well as Bavaria. Batavis or Passavium, early forms of the city name, referred to the barbarian Batavian troops stationed here in the first of three forts built by the Romans. St Severin established a monastery in the 5th century and in the 8th century St Boniface founded what became the largest diocese of the Holy Roman empire, stretching along the Danube/Donau into Hungary. Its reach – and that of its bishops – into central Europe was thus extensive. Relations with Italy via Austria were renewed long after the Roman collapse. The city plays a role in the 12th or 13th century verse epic Das Nibelungenlied, a version of the ancient Nibelung tale probably compiled for the Passau bishop Wolfger. Also acquiring legendary status were swords forged locally and stamped with the Passau wolf. But its position at the river junction made the city an important distribution port in the salt trade and delivered much of its wealth. Passau became a centre for theological studies in the 17th century and much of its Baroque splendour comes from reconstruction work after the ravages of a 1662 town fire. The 2013 flood of more than 12m in a city used to flooding ravaged lower-lying parts of the city area, where residents, businesses and institutions were still carrying out remedial work months later. Only floods in 1501 are known to have been higher. Altstadt The remodelled city centre has not overshadowed the charm of the old town, which near the confluence at Dreiflüsse-Eck narrows into a network of archways, stairways and cobbled lanes. Baroque is the dominant style there and along the walled promenade on the Inn’s north bank. The narrow Höllgasse starts at the Untere Donaulände boat landings and runs parallel with the Danube through to Rathausplatz with its galleries, boutiques and gift shops. The favourite evening stroll is along the Innkai to the point of the river junction, past the 15th century tower Schaiblingsturm, which marks the medieval salt harbour. The Jesuit St-Michaels-Kirche (or Studienkirche) and the adjacent former Jesuit college are above the bank on Schwabgasse. The abbey church of Kloster Niedernburg on Jesuitengasse has the grave of the blessed abbess Gisela, once queen of the saint Stephen I of Hungary. Innstadt On the Inn’s south bank are several attractions in an ideal area for evening walking. The oldest are the footings of the Roman fort on Lederergasse (see Museums) and remnants of medieval wall along Jahnstraße, where gateways reveal a second wall line with towers. The late medieval gate Severintor is nearby on Am Severintor and the Severinkirche at the south end of the Fünferlsteg footbridge marks the site of St Severin’s 5th century basilica. The pilgrimage church Mariahilfkirche and its monastery are above Kapuzinerplatz at the top of the Mariahilfstiege steps. Information The main office of Passau Tourismus and accommodation service is centrally located at Rathausplatz 3 by the town hall, although an office is located not far from Hauptbahnhof at Bahnhofstraße 28. At the website www. tourismus.passau.de the English tab is at the bottom left. Bücher Pustet (M-Sa 9-20) at Nibelungenplatz 1 has an excellent map selection but its guidebook range is all in German. Thalia Bücher (M-Sa 9.30-20) is on the upper level at the west end of the Stadtgalerie complex. The book Passau City Guide is available at €5.80. RAVEN QUICK GUIDE Tourist information & accommodation service: Rathausplatz 3 (tel 0851-955980, email tourist-info@passau.de, Apr-Sep M-F 8.30-18, Sa-Su 9-16, Oct-Easter M-Th 8.30-17, F 8.30-16, Sa-Su 10-15); Bahnhofstraße 28 (M-F 9-12, 12.30-17, Sa-Su 10.30-15.30). Money: VR-Bank, Ludwigsplatz 1 (M-W & F 8.30-16.15, Th 8.30-17); Sparkasse, Ludwigstraße 8 (M-W 8.30-16.30, Th 8.30-18, F 8.30-17); Commerzbank, Bahnhofstraße 22 (M-W & F 9-13, 14-16, Th 9-13, 14-19). Lockers: Hauptbahnhof, platform 1 (€4/2 per day). Transit information: VBP, Zentraler Omnibus Bahnhof, Dr-Hans-Kapfinger-Straße (tel 0851-560186, M-Th 8-11.45, 12.30-16, F 8-14). Post: Nibelungen Center, Nikolastraße 2 (M-F 8-18, Sa 8-14). Internet: Netcafe, Nibelungen Center, Nikolastraße 2 (M-Sa 9-21, Su 12-17); Bahnhofsrestaurant, Hauptbahnhof (M-Su 9-21). Police: tel 110; Nibelungstraße 17 (tel 0851-95110). Pharmacy: Bahnhof-Apotheke-Passau, Bahnhofstraße 17 (M-F 8-18, Sa 9-18); Hofapotheke zum Schwarzen Adler, Residenzplatz 12 (M-F 8-18, Sa 8-12.30); Salvator-Apotheke, Freyunger Straße 2 (M-F 8-18, Sa 8-12); Engel-Apotheke, Bahnhofstraße 10 (M-F 8-18.15, Sa 9-16). Ambulance: tel 112. The Altstadt with the Danube in the foreground. Hospital: Klinikum Passau, Innstraße 76 (tel 0851-53000 or 19222). Transport Fast trains arrive either from Regensburg (several times daily, just over one hour) or from Linz and Vienna/Wien. Passengers to and from Regensburg can pick up services to or from Munich or Plattling, connecting through Agilis trains running Regensburg- Plattling. The Deutsche Bahn Reisezentrum (M 6-17.30, Tu-F 6.30-17.30, Sa 7-17, Su 9-16.30) at the Hauptbahnhof can help with connections information and ticket machines are available when the office is closed. The Ilztalbahn rail service (using RBO bus connections) offers ways into the national park areas of the Bavarian forest (change at Freyung) and to České Budějovice/Budweis and Český Krumlov/Krumau in the Czech Republic (change at Waldkirchen for buses to join Czech trains at the border). Berlin Linien Bus runs to Passau from Berlin via Leipzig, Hof, Regensburg and Deggendorf and on to Bad Füssing (W & Sa) and return (Th & Su). The Zentraler © 2014 RAVEN TRAVEL GUIDES GERMANY RAVEN TRAVEL GUIDES GERMANY - Passau 1
The late Baroque and Neoclassical bishops’ residence Neue Residenz at Residenzplatz has an ornate staircase with stucco decoration putting it among Germany’s finest (along with a ceiling fresco) usually accessible through the west door. The adjacent cathedral treasury can be reached through the cathedral. Outside on Residenzplatz is the Wittelsbacher Brunn, after the Baroque style but actually early 20th century. The Neoclassical Fürstbischöfliche Opernhaus building at the west end now houses the Stadttheater. The Rathaus goes back to at least the 14th century, although the present tower is Neogothic. The vaulted great assembly hall Großer Rathaussaal and small hall were stuccoed by Carlone in the 17th century after the great fire. In the 19th century local artist Ferdinand Wagner painted the ceilings with events from local history and Nibelung motifs when the other Wagner was in high vogue. The Rathausplatz facade with the Danube’s historical flood markers indicates the many deluges the city has survived. Großer Rathaussaal (late March-Oct M-Su 10-16, late Nov-early Jan M-Su 10-16, €2/1.50) is also part of the city tour but it or the smaller hall are often closed for functions. The tower glockenspiel sounds daily at 10.30, 14.00 and 19.25 with an extra Saturday carillion at 15.30. The Dom St Stephan at Domplatz is a Gothic cathedral transformed after a 17th century fire to Italian Baroque on a grand scale by the innovative plans of Prague resident Carlo Lurago and the Italian architect Paolo d’Aglio. The opulent stucco work is by Giovanni Battista Carlone and frescoes by Carpoforo Tencalla feature the stoning of the saint. It houses one of the world’s great church organs of almost 18,000 pipes. Half-hour organ concerts (May-Oct or Christmas-New Year’s Eve, M-Sa 12-12.30, holidays closed, €4/2 children under 10 free) are a highlight but connoisseurs might prefer the one-hour evening performances (May- Oct Th 19.30-20.30, €8/5). Kloster Niedernburg’s Klosterkirche zum Heiligen Kreuz in Jesuitengasse is the resting place of the blessed Gisela, queen of St Stephen and daughter of the Bavarian duke Heinrich II. The largely 12th century Romanesque church is on the site of a Carolingian predecessor. Gisela entered the convent after her husband’s death and was abbess when she died in the 1060s. Most of her remains (bones of the couple were reunited in Hungary in 1996) lie on the south side of the church, now a pilgrimage site. The Benedictine foundation was the centre of the Passau bishops when they were styled prince-bishops early in the 13th century and it is speculated that the Niebelungenlied poet had a special relationship with it. It was later taken over by the sisterhood founded by English nun Mary Ward. Veste Oberhaus, the Gothic castle high above the Danube, overlooking the old town, is the former fortress of the Passau bishops and later a military prison. Apart from the spectacular view and youth hostel there is the excellent Oberhausmuseum Passau (see Museums below), pulling together the themes of the city’s complex history. Walking up (the path Ludwigsteig closes at 17.00 daily) involves a little effort and many will find the half-hourly shuttle bus from Rathausplatz (mid Apr-early Nov M-F 10-17, Sa-Su 10-18, €1.70/€1.20, families €5.50) worth the fare and opt for the stroll down. At times the path becomes hazardous during winter weather. Veste Niederhaus below, though connected by battlements, is closed to the public and the best view of it is from a river ferry or Dreiflüsse Eck. Omnibusbahnhof on Dr-Hans-Kapfinger- Straße at Nibelungplatz handles regional and long-distance buses. Danube ferries (see Cruises) are the leisurely alternatives in both directions. Bicycle riders find in Passau the hub of several bicycle paths. The German portion of the Donauradweg from Donaueschingen joins the Austrian portion at the border, continuing via Linz to Vienna. The Inntalradweg follows the Inn valley to Innsbruck in Austria, continuing to the pass at Maloja beyond St Moritz in Switzerland. Other routes lead to Salzburg, Neumarkt in der Oberpfalz and Bad Gögging on the Danube between Regensburg and Ingolstadt (called the Via Danubia or Römerradweg). City transit: Local buses also converge on the ZOB. The VBP local transit information office there (see Quick Guide) is open to 18.00 on the first two and last two working days of each month. Passau has extensive pedestrian zones and the only buses likely to appeal (unless crossing the Inn) are the castle shuttle and Citybus. The VBP bus network, including the shuttle, is covered by PassauCard (see below) or Bayern- Ticket. Single-trip tickets (€1.70/1.20) last 90 minutes and allow changes of bus (except for the castle shuttle) but strip tickets for eight journeys (€9/5.50, to be validated on board) are considerably cheaper. Tickets can be bought from bus drivers. The Citybus (M-Sa 7.30-18.30, single trip €0.90) shuttles between the Hauptbahnhof and Römerplatz at the end of Prinzregent- Leopold-Brücke via Rathausplatz and the ZOB. Motorists with a short-term parking pass at the Hauptbahnhof Parkhaus can use this as a Citybus ticket. Bus route numbers preceded by a K are for smaller vehicles. A contracted evening bus service (M-Su 20.30-23.30) runs nine routes from the ZOB to connect outer areas. There are several bike hire options. Fahrrad-Laden Passau (tel 0851-72226, Apr- Sep M-F 8-18, Sa 8-14, Oct-Mar M-F 10-18, Sa 10-14) at Roßtränke 12 has bicycles at €13 per day, €11 per day for three days and €10 per day for a week and can arrange access to public bike lockers for travellers. Bikehaus (tel 0151- 12834224, Mar-mid Oct M-Su 9-12.30, 15-18) at the end of platform 1 at the Hauptbahnhof has similar rates and is part of the Rent A Bike network, offering a pick-up and drop-off scheme along the Danube to Vienna. PassauCard The card allows free entry to Passau museums, free city tours and three rivers cruises (see Cruises), a return trip on the castle shuttle bus (and a coffee at the cafe) and free bus travel. Discounts or specials on shopping and attractions in the Passau region are included. PassauCards for one, two or three days (€15/12, €22/15 or €27.50/19) or up to three weeks (€59/41) are available at tourist information offices and many accommodation houses. Tours English city sightseeing tours are by arrangement only (tel 0851-955980, email stadtfuehrung@passau.de). But electronic guides in English can be hired (€7.50 for three hours, €10 overnight for return the next Passau 2 - RAVEN TRAVEL GUIDES GERMANY
Page 1: Veste Oberhaus Passau
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Raven Guides: Germany - Passau

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