Raven Guides: Germany - Passau

The late Baroque and Neoclassical bishops’
residence Neue Residenz at Residenzplatz has
an ornate staircase with stucco decoration putting
it among Germany’s finest (along with a ceiling
fresco) usually accessible through the west door.
The adjacent cathedral treasury can be reached
through the cathedral. Outside on Residenzplatz
is the Wittelsbacher Brunn, after the Baroque
style but actually early 20th century. The
Neoclassical Fürstbischöfliche Opernhaus
building at the west end now houses the
Stadttheater.
The Rathaus goes back to at least the 14th century,
although the present tower is Neogothic. The vaulted great
assembly hall Großer Rathaussaal and small hall were
stuccoed by Carlone in the 17th century after the great fire.
In the 19th century local artist Ferdinand Wagner painted
the ceilings with events from local history and
Nibelung motifs when the other Wagner was in high vogue.
The Rathausplatz facade with the Danube’s historical flood
markers indicates the many deluges the city has survived.
Großer Rathaussaal (late March-Oct M-Su 10-16, late
Nov-early Jan M-Su 10-16, €2/1.50) is also part of the city
tour but it or the smaller hall are often closed for functions.
The tower glockenspiel sounds daily at 10.30, 14.00 and
19.25 with an extra Saturday carillion at 15.30.
The Dom St Stephan at Domplatz is a Gothic cathedral
transformed after a 17th century fire to Italian Baroque
on a grand scale by the innovative plans of Prague
resident Carlo Lurago and the Italian architect Paolo
d’Aglio. The opulent stucco work is by Giovanni
Battista Carlone and frescoes by Carpoforo Tencalla
feature the stoning of the saint. It houses one of the
world’s great church organs of almost 18,000 pipes.
Half-hour organ concerts (May-Oct or Christmas-New
Year’s Eve, M-Sa 12-12.30, holidays closed, €4/2
children under 10 free) are a highlight but connoisseurs
might prefer the one-hour evening performances (May-
Oct Th 19.30-20.30, €8/5).
Kloster Niedernburg’s Klosterkirche zum Heiligen
Kreuz in Jesuitengasse is the resting place of the blessed
Gisela, queen of St Stephen and daughter of the Bavarian
duke Heinrich II. The largely 12th century Romanesque
church is on the site of a Carolingian predecessor. Gisela
entered the convent after her husband’s death and was
abbess when she died in the 1060s. Most of her remains
(bones of the couple were reunited in Hungary in 1996) lie
on the south side of the church, now a pilgrimage site. The
Benedictine foundation was the centre of the Passau
bishops when they were styled prince-bishops early in the
13th century and it is speculated that the Niebelungenlied
poet had a special relationship with it. It was later taken
over by the sisterhood founded by English nun Mary Ward.
Veste Oberhaus, the Gothic castle high above the Danube,
overlooking the old town, is the former fortress of the
Passau bishops and later a military prison. Apart from the
spectacular view and youth hostel there is the excellent
Oberhausmuseum Passau (see Museums below), pulling
together the themes of the city’s complex history. Walking
up (the path Ludwigsteig closes at 17.00 daily) involves a
little effort and many will find the half-hourly shuttle bus
from Rathausplatz (mid Apr-early Nov M-F 10-17, Sa-Su
10-18, €1.70/€1.20, families €5.50) worth the fare and opt
for the stroll down. At times the path becomes hazardous
during winter weather. Veste Niederhaus below, though
connected by battlements, is closed to the public and the
best view of it is from a river ferry or Dreiflüsse Eck.
Omnibusbahnhof on Dr-Hans-Kapfinger-
Straße at Nibelungplatz handles regional and
long-distance buses.
Danube ferries (see Cruises) are the
leisurely alternatives in both directions.
Bicycle riders find in Passau the hub of
several bicycle paths. The German portion of
the Donauradweg from Donaueschingen joins
the Austrian portion at the border, continuing
via Linz to Vienna. The Inntalradweg follows
the Inn valley to Innsbruck in Austria,
continuing to the pass at Maloja beyond St
Moritz in Switzerland.
Other routes lead to Salzburg, Neumarkt in
der Oberpfalz and Bad Gögging on the Danube
between Regensburg and Ingolstadt (called the
Via Danubia or Römerradweg).
City transit: Local buses also converge on
the ZOB. The VBP local transit information
office there (see Quick Guide) is open to 18.00
on the first two and last two working days of
each month.
Passau has extensive pedestrian zones and
the only buses likely to appeal (unless crossing
the Inn) are the castle shuttle and Citybus. The
VBP bus network, including the shuttle, is
covered by PassauCard (see below) or Bayern-
Ticket. Single-trip tickets (€1.70/1.20) last 90
minutes and allow changes of bus (except for
the castle shuttle) but strip tickets for eight
journeys (€9/5.50, to be validated on board)
are considerably cheaper. Tickets can be
bought from bus drivers.
The Citybus (M-Sa 7.30-18.30, single trip
€0.90) shuttles between the Hauptbahnhof
and Römerplatz at the end of Prinzregent-
Leopold-Brücke via Rathausplatz and the
ZOB. Motorists with a short-term parking pass
at the Hauptbahnhof Parkhaus can use this as
a Citybus ticket.
Bus route numbers preceded by a K are
for smaller vehicles. A contracted evening bus
service (M-Su 20.30-23.30) runs nine routes
from the ZOB to connect outer areas.
There are several bike hire options.
Fahrrad-Laden Passau (tel 0851-72226, Apr-
Sep M-F 8-18, Sa 8-14, Oct-Mar M-F 10-18,
Sa 10-14) at Roßtränke 12 has bicycles at €13
per day, €11 per day for three days and €10 per
day for a week and can arrange access to public
bike lockers for travellers. Bikehaus (tel 0151-
12834224, Mar-mid Oct M-Su 9-12.30, 15-18)
at the end of platform 1 at the Hauptbahnhof
has similar rates and is part of the Rent A
Bike network, offering a pick-up and drop-off
scheme along the Danube to Vienna.
PassauCard
The card allows free entry to Passau museums,
free city tours and three rivers cruises (see
Cruises), a return trip on the castle shuttle
bus (and a coffee at the cafe) and free bus
travel. Discounts or specials on shopping and
attractions in the Passau region are included.
PassauCards for one, two or three days
(€15/12, €22/15 or €27.50/19) or up to
three weeks (€59/41) are available at tourist
information offices and many accommodation
houses.
Tours
English city sightseeing tours are by
arrangement only (tel 0851-955980, email
stadtfuehrung@passau.de). But electronic
guides in English can be hired (€7.50 for
three hours, €10 overnight for return the next
Passau 2 - RAVEN TRAVEL GUIDES GERMANY