THE MENSWEAR GUIDE - Elite Traveler

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THE MENSWEAR GUIDE - Elite Traveler

ELITE RECOMMENDS

The menswear guide

excLusive Luxury MensWeAr report

It’s never too early to start thinking about

what to wear when the winter weather hits.

Get a jumpstart on next season’s wardrobe

with Elite Traveler’s guide to the fashion

and accessories that will make every man’s

most wanted list.

FALL/Winter

2009/2010


ColleCtion HigHligHt

A. Testoni’s reputation was built on failsafe,

elegant shoes that have been finished

to the final degree. More than 200

steps—all performed by hand—are involved

in building each pair. Classics like

the calf lace up (top, $475) and washed

calf cap toe lace-up (bottom, $595) are

never in short supply. For fall, the brand

also placed emphasis on boots in supple

exotic skins and feisty strokes of color.

Oversized totes (and golf bags) in buttery

leather or decadent ostrich have a

refined, sporty sensibility.

A. testoni

With a history dating back nearly a century, A. Testoni combines a venerable heritage of distinguished craftsmanship with envelope-

pushing technological innovation to produce chic, classic leather goods. Its signature Bolognese construction stands the test of time.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Testoni in New York and Las Vegas, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and

Bloomingdale’s department stores, and online at zappos.com. Corporate Contact: Blanchesky Rivera, (212) 399-7733 ext. 13,

blanchesky.rivera@testoni.com. Visit testoni.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

McQueen’s lineup of tough but dapper

dandies stormed down the runway in suiting

and coats reminiscent of middle 19th

century finery. Styling flourishes that included

leather aprons and breastplates

didn’t obscure the lines of his strongshouldered

jackets, neatly-cropped pants

and trim waistcoats in totally accessible

tones of khaki, grey and black. Just accent

with red and top the classic tuxedo

coat with a beaver fur for a savage twist

($21,780).

AlexAnder MCQueen

Formerly known as an enfant terrible, Alexander McQueen’s latest collection has a determinedly grown-up point of view. Knife’s edge

tailoring with aristocratic flair and Gothic notes suffused his ”The McQueensberry Rules” show.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Alexander McQueen in London, New York, Milan, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, and

Istanbul. Corporate Contact: Noemi Zamora, 41-020-7355-0088, noemi.zamora@uk.alexandermcqueen.com.

Visit alexandermcqueen.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Classic films starring James Dean and

Marlon Brando must have been swimming

in Atwood’s imagination—just look

at his collection of retro, motorcycleinspired

gear. Shrunken leather jackets

and cropped, techno gabardine pants—

complete with glossy helmets, for good

measure—are revitalized versions of the

Rebel Without a Cause wardrobe. Body

slimming tailoring in stretch wool has the

same cool kid spirit in an office-appropriate

guise. Accent the lean look with accessories

that have comparably clean lines.

Blackburn and Belvion shoes ($475) feature

perforated and stitched details with a

profile that’s sleeker and more elongated

than traditional oxfords, and Fielis-S belts

are faithful staples that function in every

setting.

bAlly

Hitting his stride in his third season with the brand, designer Brian Atwood created a wide ranging collection spanning from bad

boy motorcyle style to modernized classics.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Bally boutiques nationwide. Corporate Contact: Patrick Chee, (212) 751-9082.

Visit bally.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Almost-edible shades of chocolate, toast,

and cream, plus hints of slate, dominated

the muted palette at Bottega Veneta. The

sense of ease embodied by the cardigan

pervades the whole collection, from soft

shouldered wool jackets and coats in

oversized herringbone, to the super soft

velvet and cashmere jackets that just

hugged the body. Scaled down in proportion

from recent collections, the slimmer

silhouette was most noticeable in

washed cotton pants that retain a livedin,

wrinkled texture. Accessories are covetable

to the extreme—top of list is the

Truffle Toro duffle-style tote with barely

there intrecciacto detailing ($1,980).

bottegA venetA

Tomas Maier never falls short of ways to reinvent Bottega Veneta’s spin on logo-free luxury. This time, a cozy classic—the

cardigan—serves as the starting point for the brand’s entire collection of softly tailored pieces.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Bottega Veneta boutiques and select items at Bergdorf Goodman in New York.

Corporate Contact: Roland Marcum, (646) 292-5831, roland.marcum@us.bottegaveneta.com. Visit bottegaveneta.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Country squire attire gets a souped up

dose of luxury from Brioni in the form of

tailored and sporty pieces done in rich,

patterned fabrics, like sophisticated glen

plaids, herringbone checks and butter

soft suede. A soft color palette, especially

tones of mocha and grey with burgundy

highlights crop up throughout. Mix patterns

to get the total look in a three piece

suit with brown over-check ($8,175),

striped shirt ($675) and bow tie ($250).

Evening looks get particularly inventive

touches—tuxedos in a laser-cut velvet

and vibrantly colored checks are jazzy alternatives

to basic black versions.

brioni

It’s all in the mix at Brioni. A chic cross-pollination of town and country, pattern and solid, sporty and dressed up, prove to be winning

combinations for fall.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Brioni in New York, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, Neiman Marcus,

Saks Fifth Avenue and Barney’s New York department stores and specialty stores nationwide. Corporate Contact: Todd Barrato,

(212) 332-6900, info@brioni.com. Visit brioni.com


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Tourbillon No. 8 is Asprey’s complicated

18K white gold timepiece. Made in a

limited edition of 10 pieces, this watch

includes a rare 30-second tourbillon,

which performs its revolution at twice

the speed of most tourbillons. The watch

also features a seven-day power reserve

and an open back that reveals the pure,

understated movement inside. The

signature purple alligator strap subtly

references the regal color of the

Asprey brand. $140,000.

brunello CuCinelli

Full of firsts for fall, Brunello Cucinelli launches shoe and eveningwear collections, each bearing the brand’s trademark version

of low-key luxury.

ColleCtion HigHligHt

Despite, or more likely because, Brunello

Cucinelli’s collections come in the finest

fabrics money can buy—sumptuous

cashmere sweaters were the brand’s

breakout product—everything it produces

has an offhand appeal. Its reach has expanded

beyond knitwear since its start in

1978. Meant to exhibit the same casual

outlook as the rest of the collection, its

debut eveningwear pieces come in navy

or grey cashmere and have a slim body

with cuffed hems. To prove that the brand

doesn’t take tuxedos too seriously, they

were first presented paired with desert

boots from its new line of shoes. The five

styles include lug sole wing tips, a classic

oxford and ankle boots (Left: Knit outerwear,

$1,850; v-neck sweater, $680; polo,

$380; corduroy pilot pants, $590; vintage

shoes, $750. Right: Travel blazer, $3,540;

shirt, $415; cashmere sweater, $1,175;

pocket square, $65; flannel bow tie, $160;

pants, $360; suede ankle boots, $720).

ADD BACKGROUND

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Brunello Cucinelli in New York, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, Saks Fifth Avenue

and Neiman Marcus department stores and specialty stores nationwide. Corporate Contact: Geoff Schneiderman,

(212) 750-2990, gschneiderman@brunellocucinelli.com. Visit brunellocucinelli.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Leave it to Burberry to embue gentlemanly

elements like pinstripes and

velvet with a jaunty, edgy allure. Looking

to hardscrabble post-war England

for inspiration, Bailey stuck to the

basics—well constructed coats, white

cotton shirts (with tie or Peter Pan collars

that escaped twee associations),

and jackets with narrow lapels in a

panoply of greys. Just when it seemed

the collection could slip into territory a

touch too dour, the expanse of a crimson

lapel, checks washed in color or

dashes of Fair Isle prints would leaven

the mood (Top left: Charcoal two-button

jacket, $1,695; storm grey shirt,

$395; tapered trousers, $750. Bottom

left: Black military peacoat, $2,395;

smock shirt, $395; tapered trousers,

$750. Center: doeskin paneled cap,

$350).

burberry prorsuM

There’s no label that’s more British than Burberry, and Christopher Bailey played to the brand’s U.K. roots with plenty of telltale

plaid, tweed and Fair Isle knits that will be hits from Shoreditch to Shetland.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Burberry boutiques. Corporate Contact: Anthony Blasco, (212) 407-7100 ext. 151.

Visit burberry.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

The pure, pared down look for fall had the

lines of 1960s establishment man dressing

crossed with a futuristic sensibility.

Tapered pants and nipped-in jackets with

hidden plackets or narrow lapels hewed

to a clean and simple attitude. Tone-ontone

styling featuring many looks sporting

a suit, shirt and tie in matching shades of

the same color, had a direct, urbane elegance.

Fabrics with tech-y properties,

either liquid shine, molded structure, or

the marled textures of herringbone gave

straightforward shapes tactile interest.

CAlvin Klein

Can you say monochrome? Under Creative Director Italo Zucchelli, Calvin Klein embraces its minimalist roots with crisp tailoring

and looks in single tones of black, blue and grey.

Left: Black & white “Bowery”

suit, $1,095; dress shirt,

$395; tie, $195. Right: White

napa leather moto jacket,

$2,875; grey shirt, $195;

white napa leather slim tie,

$295; pant, $995.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Calvin Klein in New York, Saks Fifth Avenue department stores, Saks.com, and select

specialty stores. Corporate Contact: Gregory Lau, (212) 292-9441, gregorylau@ck.com. Visit calvinkle|iininc.com/collection.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Warm, earthy color was the season’s

key statement. Lush shades of toffee,

chocolate and cream take on keys roles

in the Canali fall palette, with tones of

grey and navy as supporting players in

the understated color story. Comfortably

slim silhouettes prevailed and pinstripes,

plaids and tweeds firmly rooted

the modern shapes in the sartorial tradition

(Left: suit, $2,295; shirt, $395; knit

sweater, $595 ; tie, $195. Right: jacket,

$1,595; pant, $395; shirt, $295; tie, $135).

Rounding out the offerings are special

edition suits available for about $5,000.

Prepare to see the brand make an even

bigger splash with new options, now that

it’s in the throes of celebrating its 75th

anniversary.

Canali

Few brands approach the dominance achieved by Canali, one of the world’s leading luxury menswear brands. Able to offer everything

from precisely tailored suiting to relaxed sportswear, all in uniquely luxurious fabrics, Canali builds on its prestigous reputation

season after season.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Canali boutiques, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York, Harrod’s in London and select

retailers worldwide. Corporate Contact: Tom Junk, (310) 270-4200, info@canali.it. Visit canali.it.


CAr sHoe

Driving loafers don’t come more classic than the moccasins produced by Car Shoe. An uptown-to-downtown staple, the brand has

had a following among stylesetters such as John F. Kennedy and Gianni Agnelli since its 1963 beginnings.

ColleCtion HigHligHt

There’s no need to revolutionize the

iconic, nubby rubber sole design. For fall,

key updates to the moccasins mean new

fabrications and color. Classic cordovan,

reminiscent of trad penny loafers, and

warm, spicy suedes are the latest musthaves.

Also, look for ankle boots, including

a refined work boot with the famous

no-slip rubber tread (top, $1,870; middle,

$375; bottom, $395).

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Car Shoe in Milan and select Nordstrom department stores. Corporate Contact:

Manuela Prandi, 39-02-798-345, car.shoe@prada.com. Visit carshoe.com.


CHristiAn lACroix

One of fashion’s top mix masters, Christian Lacroix keeps up his eclectic habits with a highly edited fusion of romantic tailoring

and eyepopping pattern.

ColleCtion HigHligHt

Vests in spunky red, white and black tartan,

romantic velvet jackets and drapey,

jodphur-style pants aren’t items that

normally inhabit a single wardrobe—

much less combine in one look—but

in the hands of Christian Lacroix, it all

makes sense. The combination comes

off as unstudied sophistication. Finished

off with chic sneakers—from a collaboration

with Gola—the garments get a fresh,

urban edge (Left: Red wool plaid blazer,

$1.317; navy, black and cream wool vest,

$747; grey cotton pinstripe pant, $717.

Right: Grey wool double-breasted coat,

$1,257; black silk and cotton pant with

zippers, $1,017).

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Christian Lacroix in New York and Las Vegas, and American Rag in Los Angeles.

Corporate Contact: Michelle Fix, (212) 753-2569, mfix@christianlacroixus.com. Visit christian-lacroix.fr.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Fall has the brand going in a rugged direction

without forgetting its classic catalog

of loafers, oxfords and the like. Substantial,

outdoorsy lug soles now feature into

pull-up boots, sportif hiking booties and

tweedy wingtips in a new country-inspired

collection. And for the first time, Church’s

is producing bags. Made from wool in

graphic, multicolored stripes with straps

and detailing in fine leather, the weekender

totes take cues from equestrian style

(From top: low desert boot in beige suede,

$380; terracotta leather country collection

lace-up bootie, $645; brown leather

country collection boot, $695).

CHurCH’s

Church’s of London holds to its venerable heritage of first-rate, hand-stitched footwear crafted in its Northampton headquarters

and adds countrified accessories to the fall lineup.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Church’s boutiques, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York, Neiman

Marcus in Palo Alto, Calif., and specialty boutiques. Corporate Contact: Dominick Lauria, (212) 307-9300,

dominick.lauria@prada.com. Visit church-footwear.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Much of Comme des Garçons’ latest

collection reinterprets the suit through

its designer’s idiosyncratic lens. Rei

Kawakubo turned her attention to tailored

pieces that marry key men’s suiting materials

with panels of jazzy, prints and textures.

First, Prince of Wales checks paired

with tweed layers. Later, wilder versions

included a leopard print atop pinstripes.

The mix and match effect carried through

to knitwear shown with skirts, an option

for the most daring Comme acolytes (Grey

wool herringbone jacket with leopard

print glencheck panel, $1,775; grey wool

herringbone trousers, $645).

CoMMe des gArÇons HoMMe

Rei Kawakubo’s collection remains an insider’s favorite for her keenly intellectual take on menswear. For fall, Comme des Gar-

çons gives its tailoring a flamboyant edge with pattern mixing whimsy.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Comme des Garçons in New York, select Barneys New York and Saks Fifth

Avenue department stores, and speciality boutiques: IF Boutique and Jeffrey in New York and Maxfield and Ron Herman in Los

Angeles. Corporate Contact: Jereo Meffengil, (212) 604-9200. Visit doverstreetmarket.com.


dior HoMMe

Like so many designers, Kris Van Assche has the eighties on the brain. While some think of the period’s fashions as cringe worthy,

when done in crisp, urbanite-approved black and white, revisiting the decade doesn’t seem like a bad idea after all.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Dior Homme in New York, Beverly Hills and Las Vegas. Some items are by special

order only. Corporate Contact: Paul Butler, (212) 421-6009. Visit diorhomme.com.

ColleCtion HigHligHt

Dior Homme’s fall collection offered a

cleaned up interpretation of the over-thetop

eighties. Knee grazing t-shirts blaring

boldly printed slogans were straightforward

references to the era. Subtle reworkings

included crisp tunics with funnel or

high ruff collars, sleek jackets with diagonal

zips and billowing pants with folded

waistbands. The black and white color

scheme adds sophistication to silhouettes

that were last spotted in Day Glo color.

Purists can take heart. The brand’s signature

suit appears in slightly scaled down

form (Far left: 3-D pyramid vest, price

upon request; black skinny suit, $2,600;

oversized t-shirt, $300; boots, $920; white

multi-strand leather necklace, $1,300.

Middle: Black skinny suit, $2,600; funnel

neck shirt, $495; buckle boots, $920. Bottom

right: Black skinny suit, $2,600; dress

shirt, $470; lace-up boots, $920).


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Broad shouldered, narrow waisted jackets

were the backbone of the Dolce & Gabbana

fall collection. With stretch shirting

and leg skimming pants, the proportions

steered well clear of anything remotely

boxy. And eveningwear made a major

impression. Smoking jackets paired with

velvet or quilted satin pants had a sense of

boudoir glamour. Another distinctive touch

were flashes of pink—from bubble gum to

cherry—that offered an upbeat counterpoint

to the somber shades of black seen

on runways far and wide (Pink silk ribbon

woven jacket, $2,795; black silk vest, price

upon request; dress shirt, $650; black velvet

pant, price upon request; skinny tie,

$175; black patent lace-up shoe, $550).

dolCe & gAbbAnA

Italian culture never fails to inform the collections from Dolce & Gabbana. This time, the duo referenced the ruggedly suave

wardrobes of mid-century screen stars for a presentation that would have made Visconti proud.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Dolce & Gabbana boutiques. Corporate Contact: Kevyn Noble, (212) 249-4100.

Visit dolcegabbana.it


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Broad shouldered jackets that taper to

narrow waistlines and slim, flat-front

pants dominant Dominco Vacca’s signature

suiting. The designer’s latest spin

incorporates touches of velvet in sumptuous

shades, bold windowpane checks

and statement-making chalk stripes (grey

flannel pinstripe suit, $4,900; blue strip

Sea Island cotton shirt, $540; navy silk

9-fold tie, $295; black alligator face watch

with five time zones, $6,800). Consistent

with his penchant for arresting color, the

runway presentation offered imaginative

pairings, including a deep brown suit

teamed with a hunter green shirt and burgundy

tie and a black tuxedo worn with a

champagne-colored shirt sans tie. With

more than 100 master tailors who create

the pieces by hand, Vacca’s clients can

rest assured that the fit of each garment

matches its sublime style.

doMeniCo vACCA

With characteristic Neapolitan panache, Domenico Vacca always injects tailoring with both polish and sharp-edged flair. It’s a

winning combination that’s made the collection a favorite of screen stars whether they’re on-set or off-duty.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Domenico Vacca boutiques. Corporate Contact: Reina Govindarajan,

(212) 838-9634 ext. 303. Visit domenicovacca.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

There’s no need to draw a bold line between

daytime and evening wardrobes in

the world of Dsquared2. To drive the point

home from the outset, the fall runway

show opened to strains of the Cole Porter

classic “Night & Day.” Squeaky clean, all-

American essentials like rugged workwear

got a glammed up treatment: indigo

denim shirts and abraided jeans pair with

black tie, and tuxedo shirts were rendered

in hearty plaids. Shirts, jackets and knitwear

had a slightly body con fit, while

most pants have a full, straight leg. Scaled

down shearling jackets and leather vests

feature the sleek fit that is the brand’s

signature and are the clear must-haves

for fall.

Left: Sherling bomber, $3,395; leather vest,

$1,795; carpenter button down shirt, $445;

chino jean, $445; bow tie, $145; belt, $230. Top

right: Cardigan, $675; sweater, $595; Dean

shirt, $495; Freds jean, $695; bow tie, $145; belt,

$325. Bottom right: Polo Sweater, $495; Dean

shirt, $495; Worker Wash jean, $775; bow tie,

$145; belt, $265.

dsQuAred2 Cheeky twins Dan and Dean Caten reinvigorate laid-back sportswear staples with a high-low approach that throws formal

elements into the mix.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Bloomingdale’s department stores.

Corporate Contact: Mark Busby, (646) 613-8457, mark_busby@staffinternational.com. Visit dsquared2.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

“Painstaking” barely begins to describe

the work put into Ermenegildo Zegna

Couture suits, which feature more than

33,000 stitches. The family-run brand,

famous for its tailoring, adopted a softshouldered,

double-breasted jacket and

full-legged trouser for fall. Camel and

grey with hints of bordeaux dominated

the palette and solid colors alternated

with pinstripes. Casual looks followed

an equestrian inspiration. And whether

dressed up or down, in Ermenegildo Zegna

one can count on wearing the finest cashmere,

vicuna, leather or silk. Accessories,

particularly shoes and bags, in alligator or

eel are refined touches that complete the

look (Tan quilted jacket, $2,995; cashmere

turtleneck, $745; suede trousers, $1,995;

leather knee high boots, $1,900).

erMenegildo zegnA

Very few brands approach the mastery Ermenegildo Zegna has achieved in creating timeless, tailored clothing. Synonymous with

the very best fabrics and craftsmanship, the brand sticks to its guns in a collection dubbed “Authentic Elegance.”

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Ermenegildo Zegna boutiques, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, select Neiman Marcus,

Saks Fifth Avenue, Barney’s New York and Bloomingdale’s department stores, and specialty boutiques. Corporate Contact: Franco

Salhi, (212) 421-4488. Visit zegna.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Exuberant pattern never feels excessive

in Kean Etro’s hands. The collection’s

assortment of mixed checks, geometric

patterns, and (of course) paisleys has

a romantic, countrified aspect. An endless

panorama of warm reds—russet,

wine, cherry—lend seductive warmth

to conventional menswear greys and

blacks. Get the look by topping a suit

with a cape in a strong block print or an

eel motorcycle jacket in a deep cabernet

(Cape, $3,470; suit, $2,540; shirt, $285;

tie, $150).

etro

Never dour, Etro lavishes in color and pattern even in somber times. Rich, textured fabrics, in a palette highlighted by red tones,

paraded down the runway in an optimistic interpretation of its In Vino Veritas theme.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Etro boutiques in New York, Coral Gables, Beverly Hils, Las Vegas, and Americana

Manhasset. Corporate Contact: Evelyn Arenella, (212) 317-9096. Visit etro.com.


FrAtelli rosetti

Founded in 1953 by brothers Renzo and Renato Rossetti, the Parabiago-based brand preserves the best of Old World Italian

craftsmanship with new school invention.

ColleCtion HigHligHt

Fratelli Rossetti touches on key trends

while maintaining hallmark qualities such

as hand-sewn soles and hand painting.

One of the brand’s important new styles

for fall upends ordinary approaches to

embellishment by hiding stitched details

beneath the surface of the shoe’s calfskin

upper. After being rubbed to achieve

an antiqued effect, an impression of the

stitched pattern shows through on the

surface. Touching on the pervasive use

of pony fur, Fratelli Rossetti updates

the classic cap toe in the material, and

the laced oxfords come in one of fall’s

most popular tones: rich Bordeaux (From

top: Black pony fur cap toe shoe, $595;

Antiqued finish monk strap with handstitched

detail on toe, $585; Burgundy

lace up with punch detail, $540).

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Fratelli Rossetti boutiques. Corporate Contact: Lizann LaGrange, (212) 888-5107,

lizann.lagrange@rosettiny.com. Visit rossetti.it.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Gianfranco Ferré, a label associated with

strong, sculptural looks, held on to its

heritage while striking out in a bold new

direction. Sharply defined shoulders,

pants that alternated between ballooning

volumes and legging tightness and

majorly chunky knitwear summed up a

silhouette done mostly in black, white and

light reflecting silver surfaces. The collection’s

pale grey leather trench is the best

example of Ferré’s architectural legacy

combined with its new designers’ infatuation

with futurism (Left: Sweater, $1,900;

scarf, $3,675; pants, $890. Below: Coat,

$4,040; sweater, $935; neck shawl, $370;

pants, $1,070).

giAnFrAnCo FerrÉ

A hybrid vision of the sixties crossed with the not-too-distant future was the message from Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aq-

uilano in their first menswear collection for Gianfranco Ferré.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Gianfranco Ferré in Beverly Hills. Corporate Contact: Fabrizio Babino,

(212) 265-4166, fabrizio_babino@ittierre.it. Visit gianfrancoferre.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Leggings, whether of the laced leather or

knit variety, was the thread that trailed

through much of the Givenchy fall collection.

Balanced atop the spindle legged

proportion were voluminous capes,

square shouldered jackets and boxy knits

with cropped sleeves that had a hulking

quality. A less strict option came in the

shape of slim, tapered pants and jackets

that hugged the shoulders with a military

bent. Black was the color of choice. A mix

of materials—matte leather, satin, wool,

nylon—gave the monochrome subtle dimension

(Navy wool jacket with leather

yoke and back cross seam, $2,500; light

wool serge shirt, $620; black wool twill

trouser, $850).

givenCHy by riCCArdo tisCi

Riccardo Tisci has hit his stride at Givenchy by pairing an urban gladiator aesthetic with neat, sartorial polish.

| Where To Buy |The collection is available at Barney’s New York department stores. Corporate Contact: Youssef Marquis,

33-144-315-133. Visit givenchy.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Known for collaborations with burgeoning

fashion designers, design darling Erdem

Moralioglu is the latest talent to work

with the brand. Fabricated in Globe-Trotter’s

customary materials—an ash wood

frame, cloth lining and leather trim—the

Erdem collection has a poppy red exterior

and is lined in the designer’s signature

acid florals (Erdem 30-inch suitcase with

wheels, $1,760; Erdem 21-inch trolley

case, $1,425). Another old-meets-new

variation is a Hawaiian-inspired style that

comes complete with palm tree printed

lining and travel stickers on the exterior.

globe-trotter

The quintessentially English purveyor of durable, luxurious travel gear has a long list of distinguished clients. Queen Elizabeth

II, Edmund Hilary and Kate Moss are some of the high profile fans that have been spied toting Globe-Trotter luggage.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Takashimaya in New York, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus department

stores, and specialty boutiques nationwide. Corporate Contact: Julie Agashiwala, (212) 450-0312, agashiwala-j@na.marubeni.com.

Visit globe-trotterltd.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Skinny was the key word when summing

up the look of Frida Giannini’s Gucci man.

There were skinny, rail-thin suits worn

with skinny ties, and rib hugging shirts

in electric bright colors—some with miniscule

collars in contrasting hues. The

trim jacquard tailoring transitioned into a

roundup of elements last seen circa Pretty

in Pink: buffalo check, shaggy fur and

high shine pants shot threw with Lurex.

The collection is perfect for nocturnal meanderings

in smoky nightclubs—only the

skinny need apply (silk and wool skinny

jacket, $2,295; pink skinny shirt, $475;

silk and wool skinny pant, $765; tie, $180;

black leather skinny belt, $135; leather

loafer with pony hair, $660).

guCCi

International powerhouse Gucci is one of the world’s pacesetters for defining chic. For fall, look for popstar-ready options that

put the early eighties’ greatest sartorial hits into heavy rotation.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Gucci boutiques. Corporate Contact: Michael Daly, (212) 286-2600.

Visit gucci.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Steadfast tones of black, charcoal, navy

and olive took precedence as key colors,

though perky shots of caution-tape yellow

and stop-sign red played supporting

roles. Designer Véronique Nichanian

gave just enough interest to tried and

true garments to give them a fresh outlook:

shawl neck pullovers jumbo ribbing

came tricked out in graphic patterns, a

peacoat’s collar had just the right touch

of exaggerated proportion, and a stock

staple navy blazer featured a trompe

l’oeil lapel. With equal parts classicism

and cleverness, the Hermès collection

was just the thing to get the man who

has everything to reach for his credit

card (Left: V-neck wool sweater, $1,250;

yellow trouser, $600; silk crepe losange,

$340; Taiga boots, $1,125. Top right: Yellow

and brown cardigan, $2,425; cashmere

sweater, $1,450; trousers, $630;

Taylor shoes, $880. Bottom right: Yellow

hooded parka, $4,250; black two-button

jacket, $3,150; Confetti shirt, $930; trousers,

$610; silk scarf tie, $195; Timotee

shoes, $950).

HerMès oF pAris

Hermès menswear always has more to do with impressing its wearer than anyone else. The supreme quality in

its fabrics and fit can be seen but, more importantly, is felt.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Hermès boutiques. Corporate Contact: Cindy Ma,

(212) 751-3181. Visit hermes.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Everything about the Boss Black

collection has a comforting, reassuring

quality. Bathed in gentle

tones of ecru, light grey and camel,

each garment had a baby soft texture.

Downy cashmere fisherman

sweaters hugged the contours of

the body without being restrictive,

and even leather pants took on

relaxed, flowing lines. Regulation

suiting had a youthful, businesslike

appeal, but really it was the cuddly

shearling jackets and lofty knits

that were the stars of the show

(Left: Cream merino wool sweater,

$195; scarf, $225; trouser, $195;

black leather belt, $95; black leather

bag, $895; shoe, $295. Top right:

Grey wool suit, $995; scarf, $95.

Bottom right: Tan shearling double-breasted

coat, $3,000; sweater,

$345; trouser, $195; brown leather

bag, $895; shoe, $345).

Hugo boss boss blACK

A bastion of chic, modern dressing, megabrand Hugo Boss’ high-end label Boss Black, was chock-a-block

with cozy clothing that conveys an elegant, self-possessed edge.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at the BOSS Store in New York. Corporate Contact: Richard

Presser, (212) 940-0639, richard_presser@hugoboss.com. Visit hugoboss.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

A triad of vivid combinations—grey with

green, brown with purple and blue with

camel—carry through the brand’s fall lineup.

The pairings appear in suits, overcoats

and shirts with neutrals and brights, each

taking turns at dominance. For those with

an interest in starker contrasts, a dandified

new suit in a plaid woven from natural

black and white wool is a showstopping

addition to a wardrobe awash in conventional

navy and grey options. A popular

collaboration with Superga continues for

another season using select Isaia fabrics

as the uppers in distinctly elegant sneakers.

It’s also a fine example of the mix of

formal and casual elements that CEO Gianluca

Isaia encourages for fall (Made-tomeasure

green and grey overcoat, $3,180;

three-piece grey suit with green pinstripe,

$3,715; whitshirt, $445; tie, $225).

isAiA

For unsurpassed tailoring that conforms to the body like a second skin, look no further than Isaia. The Neopolitan brand injects

bright bursts of color into is repertoire for fall, plus brings together the worlds of suiting and sportswear.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barney’s New York department stores

and specialty boutiques. Some items are available by special order only. Corporate Contact: Lauren Weiss, (212) 245-3733,

lauren@isaia.it. Visit isaia.it.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

A molded, hourglass silhouette is the primary

statement from the Jil Sander fall

collection, with outerwear as the lynchpin.

The structure of jackets in three-quarters

or cropped lengths hung from rounded,

broad shoulders; their shapely curved

lines stand away from the body with

graceful severity. Black, slate and cream

were the prevailing colors in sumptuous

textures of velvet and wool. A passage of

jackets with swathes of murky color were

all the more impressive for the intricate

woven technique they employed (Jacket,

$1,545; turtleneck, $595; pants, $475;

shoes, $595).

Jil sAnder

Raf Simons cracks the code of how to pay homage to Jil Sander’s minimalist legacy while pushing its boundaries with painterly

finishing and softly sculptural lines.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Jil Sander in New York and Chicago and specialty boutiques. Corporate Contact:

Paul Avaril, (212) 925-2345. Visit jilsander.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

There’s no designer better at staging a

brilliant, feast-for-the-senses show than

John Galliano. A cavalcade of characters,

from ghostly 18th century gentry in

powered wigs to horned satyrs, trooped

through a fall presentation that seemed

like scenes from the designer’s subconscious

made real. The disparate strands

come together in an off-kilter tapestry of

wearable elements: timeless pinstripes,

equestrian-chic suede, slouchy denim

and velvet suits each would be at home

in any wardrobe. Tricorn hat not included

(Cotton smoking jacket, $1,084; cotton

smoking trouser, $625).

JoHn gAlliAno

A moody sweep of colonials, mythical creatures, and tulle festooned romantics each played a role in John Galliano’s theatrical, far

ranging fall collection.

| Where To Buy | John Galliano is available at John Galliano in Paris and specialty boutiques. Corporate Contact: Anastasia

Cucinella, (914) 328-0330. Visit johngalliano.fr.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

The traditionalist company his been exploring

color in recent seasons. New

shades have cropped up beyond the classic

neutrals that are universal staples. To

energize loyal customers and bring new

ones into the fold, shades of blue, green

and red have joined the spectrum of John

Lobb colors (Darby II moss green Kendal,

$1,265; Kilton ardilla mist calf, $1,225).

While new hues and styles—the brand

recently began producing sandals—help

modernize the offerings, each pair remains

entirely handmade; only 100 are finished

each day. The brand is also making

moves to provide more furnishings that

complement its shoes, including a wider

selection of wallets, billfolds and belts.

JoHn lobb

The quintessential prestige shoemaker, John Lobb is renown for exceptionally crafted pieces that last a lifetime (or longer). While

hewing to its proud heritage of traditional construction and superior materials, the collection takes on key updates to keep pace with

evolving tastes.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at John Lobb boutiques and select Neiman Marcus department stores. Corporate

Contact: Kelli Duggan, (212) 888-9797, johnlobbmadisonavenue@johnlobb.com. Visit johnlobb.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Most of the super versatile pieces in John

Varvatos’ fall collection could go from

downtown cool to suburban chic. It’s all up

to the wearer. Of course, Varvatos makes

no bones about his affection for rock musicians,

so his presentation veered toward

the former. By taking straight-laced

menswear elements like checks and flannel

and roughing them up with weathering

and washing, each piece had an easy

refinement that could move between multiple

worlds. Flatteringly slim, the uniformly

dark color scheme was enlivened

through the use of shiny accents, including

zippered details, Varvatos’ knitwear

and reassuringly soft leather jackets.

They are the kind of pieces one reaches

for season after season (Espresso calfskin

darted neck jacket, $2,695; espresso

cashmere sweater vest, $398; espresso

flannel wool pant, $475; brown washed

calf suede boot, $550; brown paisley print

crinkle scarf, $245).

JoHn vArvAtos

A winning formula of luxury tinged with a rock and roll edge is John Varvatos’ sartorial signature. With a tweak to conventional

menswear codes the designer puts forth one of his strongest collections yet.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at John Varvatos boutiques in New York, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, East Hampton,

South Coast Plaza, San Francisco and Malibu. Corporate Contact: Robert McCaffery, (212) 812-8000, robert_mccaffery@vfc.com.

Visit johnvarvatos.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

The centerpiece of the Loro Piana presentation

for fall was its capacity to produce

bespoke pieces, from tailored suits

to shoes to shirts (available in more than

1,500 fabrics). There’s even a program

for custom yachting clothing and interior

accessories. Loro Piana precious fibers

aren’t reserved for tailoring—the brand

is well regarded for the high performance

properties exhibited by its technical fabrics.

And even cashmere and wool can

take on a sporty-chic spin. The bomber

jackets that numbered among fall’s outerwear

offerings look decidedly sleek

(and warm) in the fine fabrics (Light

Plume bomber, $2,695; Stalker cardigan,

$1,550; cotton pant, $375; Melville cashmere

scarf, $595).

loro piAnA

Essentially synonymous with cashmere, Loro Piana has flourished as six generations of its namesake family have mastered the

art of creating superior luxury fabrics, which often requires going to the ends of the Earth in the process: Loro Piana is one of the

few companies in the world to offer garments in rare Andean vicuña and Mongolian baby cashmere.

| Where To Buy |The collection is available at Loro Piana boutiques. Corporate Contact: Mary Ellen Romeo,

(212) 980-7961. Visit loropiana.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

A sense of softness pervaded Louis Vuitton’s

fall collection. Whether in suiting or

the languid fullness of an anorak, each

piece left plenty of room to breathe. Ever

reliable shades of chocolate, cream and

cement were dominant, highlighted by

pumpkin and burgundy. Jackets in velvet

or with an iridescent sheen gave the classically

proportioned pieces a special allure,

and a military jacket in brown croc

with neat-as-a-pin brass buttons embodied

luxury and restraint. No Louis Vuitton

show is complete without accessories

aplenty. The house focused on largescale

duffle totes, in reworked versions

of its trademark monogram and graphite

Damier check (Left: Double face tracksuit

blouson, $2,625; zipped cardigan, $825;

felted parka, $2,250. Top right: Straight fit

trousers, $810. Bottom right: Ribbed hat,

$210; over chino trousers, $975. All bags,

price upon request).

louis vuitton

Enduring pieces with a relaxed, travel-ready spirit won over the audience at Louis Vuitton’s fall runway show.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Louis Vuitton boutiques. Corporate Contact: Molly Capozzi,

(212) 758-8877. Visit louisvuitton.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Patchwork was the centerpiece of Missoni’s

fall collection. It was sewn onto wool

jackets, pieced together in panels and

thrown into the mix with the brand’s zigzag

knits. Piled together, layers of cardigans,

checked shirts and striped tees,

along with trim tapered and cuffed pants,

had a lived-in, bookish allure. Woodsy colors

like moss and bark only enhanced the

feeling (Bastian coat, $1,095; Orazio cardigan,

$1,155; Warren t-shirt, $690; Mantova

shirt, $240; Palermo trousers, $505;

ankle boots, $1,095).

Missoni

Angela Missoni’s latest collection for her family’s iconic brand shows off her knitwear mettle and gives it a youthful, bohemian flavor.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Missoni boutiques. Corporate Contact: Melanie Berger, (212) 517-9339.

Visit missoni.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

At Pal Zileri, the dominant colors for fall

include a palette that blends comforting

tones of cream, brown and blue. The

tones crop up in offerings like jackets,

some with refined motorcycle details and

others in lightweight nylon, that transition

from informal to businesslike with ease.

Double-faced wool in two complementary

shades or quilting gives a sumptuous

hand to outerwear. And thoughtful details

have huge impact—a tie tipped in a color

that matches a coordinating suit and vest

means that it blends seamlessly with both

(calfskin oxfords, $425; belt, 195).

pAl zileri

Inspired by the artistic heritage of Venice, Pal Zileri masters exquisite tailoring and versatile sportswear that does double duty

for work and play. With a reach that includes accessories, sunglasses and luggage, it’s achieved the status of a total luxury

lifestyle brand.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Pal Zileri in New York. Corporate Contact: Luca Spano, (212) 751-0876,

lspano@palzileri.com. Visit palzileri.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Santoni’s collection runs the gamut from

traditional understatement to fun loving

flash. The brand continuously tweaks its

mix of models by reelaborating shapes

slightly and introducing new treatments

and fabrics. Standouts among some

of its latest are tweed tassel loafers in

saturated tones like pumpkin and loden

and playful tartan high tops. Another exceptional

new option is a “Shabby Chic”

shoe that’s been broken in before it

leaves the factory; with countless steps

of distressing, the super soft shoe has

the look of a well-loved favorite and feels

just as comfortable (Monk strap calfskin

shoe, alligator belt and sneaker, prices

available upon request).

sAntoni

Founded in 1975, Santoni exhibits the kind of artisanal handiwork that embraces centuries old tradition even when producing strikingly

modern shoes. Twenty artisans produce the labor intensive collection, which includes models that are hand-colored five times.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Santoni boutiques and Nordstrom department stores. Corporate Contact: Justin Marsh,

(212)794-3820, customer.service@santonishoesusa.com. Visit santonishoesusa.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Stefano Ricci is unsurpassed at the craft

of producing luxe jackets in exotic skins.

So tough are its standards that it accepts

only a fraction of the skins offered by its

suppliers. The rigorous approach is proven

out with one touch of the finished product.

Jackets are intensely soft and pliable

with a burnished sheen. The money-isno-object

toppers are as exquisitely finished

inside as out (price available upon

request).

steFAno riCCi

Stefano Ricci has no desire to design something for everyone. His frankly niche brand is for the man who already has more than

everything he could need. Able to concentrate on luxury for its own sake, Stefano Ricci’s exacting eye governs one of Italy’s top

artisan fashion brands.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and

Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Corporate Contact: Dario Donnini, (212) 371-3901, dario@stefanoricci.com.

Visit stefanoricci.com.


stefano riCCi

ColleCtion HigHligHt

Tourbillon No. 8 is Asprey’s complicated

ColleCtion 18K white gold HigHligHt

timepiece. Made in a

As much limited attention edition is of lavished 10 pieces, upon this ac- watch

cessories includes as the a rare rest 30-second of Stefano tourbillon, Ricci’s

menswear. which performs Even details its revolution that only at the twice

wearer the may speed see—like of most the tourbillons. lining of a The shoe watch

or tote—get also features the full a treatment. seven-day power reserve

and an open back that reveals the pure,

understated movement inside. The

signature purple alligator strap subtly

references the regal color of the

Asprey brand. $140,000.

London’s | Where legendary To Buy | The purveyor collection of beautiful is available items at for Stefano a refined Ricci life in New since York 1781—from and Beverly leather-bound Hills, Bergdorf books Goodman to ornate in candelabras New York, and to

fine Neiman jewelry Marcus and timepieces—enters and Holt Renfrew department a new chapter stores.. of watchmaking Visit stefanoricci.com.

excellence this year.

Corporate Contact: Alison Kelley; Phone: (203) 550-1686; Email: alisonkelley@veritasmarketinggroup.com; Website: www.asprey.com


stefano riCCi

ColleCtion HigHligHt

Tourbillon Truly able to No. outfit 8 is Asprey’s its patrons complicated from head

18K to toe, white Stefano gold timepiece. Ricci offers Made a complete in a

limited shoe collection. edition of Specialists 10 pieces, this at watch wielding

includes ostrich, alligator a rare 30-second and crocodile tourbillon, as well

which as leather, performs the most its revolution in-demand at twice options

the include speed sneakers of most and tourbillons. laced dress The watch shoes

also produced features from a seven-day a single, perfectly-honed

power reserve

and exotic an skin.

open back that reveals the pure,

understated movement inside. The

signature purple alligator strap subtly

references the regal color of the

Asprey brand. $140,000.

London’s | Where legendary To Buy | The purveyor collection of beautiful is available items at for Stefano a refined Ricci life in New since York 1781—from and Beverly leather-bound Hills, Bergdorf books Goodman to ornate in candelabras New York, and to

fine Neiman jewelry Marcus and timepieces—enters and Holt Renfrew department a new chapter stores. of watchmaking Visit stefanoricci.com. excellence this year.

Corporate Contact: Alison Kelley; Phone: (203) 550-1686; Email: alisonkelley@veritasmarketinggroup.com; Website: www.asprey.com


stefano riCCi

ColleCtion HigHligHt

Jeweled cufflinks are the ultimate finishing

touch. Decked in white gold, diamonds

and other precious gemstones, Stefano

Ricci’s designs lend a personal flourish

with masculine, architectural lines.

Choose from styles with a single gemstone

or more elaborate options that are

fully emblazoned in diamonds.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and

Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit stefanoricci.com.


stefano riCCi

ColleCtion HigHligHt

Stefano Ricci ensures that no personal

accoutrement goes overlooked. Wallets,

belts, and luggage just scratch the surface

of what’s available. Crafted in a complete

range of colors and materials, Stefano

Ricci’s white matted crocodile briefcase is

one of its most eye-catching accessories.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and

Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit stefanoricci.com.


stefano riCCi

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills,

Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores.

Visit stefanoricci.com.

ColleCtion HigHligHt

Having first tested the waters of building

his brand with a collection of perfectly finished

ties, Stefano Ricci is unsurpassed in

the category. Seductive silk printed with

intense color and graphic pattern elevate

the necktie to the height of chic.


stefano riCCi

ColleCtion HigHligHt

Stefano Ricci always lends an extra lavish

note to gentlemanly pieces. The broad

,expansive mink collar gives a doublebreasted

coat in grey pinstriped cashmere

added flair while maintaining an air of understatement.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and

Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit stefanoricci.com.


stefano riCCi

ColleCtion HigHligHt

Able to turn out totally elegant tailoring

and sporty garments with equal aplomb,

Stefano Ricci gives its trademark luxury

treatment to a relaxed cashmere jacket.

An ultra-fine mink lining gives warmth

without bulk. But that isn’t the only feature

that signifies the brand’s flawless workmanship—smaller

details like leather

piping, silk edged seams and hand stitching

demonstrate its refined approach.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and

Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit stefanoricci.com.


ColleCtion HigHligHt

Artisanal craftsmanship puts Stefano

Ricci’s shoes a cut above virtually anyone

else’s. Every facet of their construction is

performed by hand—starting with cutting

each component of the lasts to putting on

a final, mirror shine polish.

stefano riCCi

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and

Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit stefanoricci.com.


stefano riCCi

ColleCtion HigHligHt

Stefano Ricci’s black crocodile belt features

a white gold buckle ringed with

diamonds. Its modern, streamlined style

walks the line of opulence without ostentation.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and

Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit stefanoricci.com.


stefano riCCi

ColleCtion HigHligHt

From fabric manufacture to hand sewn

details, Stefano Ricci’s expertise in building

the perfect suit is based on the generations

of accumulated knowledge employed

by the master tailors who work

in its Florence factory. Uncompromising

care goes into each garment so that fit,

style and longevity are guaranteed.

| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and

Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit stefanoricci.com.

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