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Wines of Portugal

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1<br />

Ray Pocock


This publication is intended as purely a guide to Portuguese wines and their originals. All I have<br />

done is collated information from the various experts and tried to put into some semblance <strong>of</strong><br />

order and sense.<br />

The idea, in this modern technological age is to install the file onto your mobile, Ipad or whatever<br />

other gadget you use, so when you are shopping it is relatively easy to look up a particular wine.<br />

The views <strong>of</strong> the expert do not necessarily accord to my own, but they are the experts and I am<br />

a mere enjoyer <strong>of</strong> Portuguese wines.<br />

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To view a region simply click on the name.<br />

1. Vinho Verde<br />

2. Minho<br />

3. Tras-os-Montes<br />

4. Douro - Duriense<br />

5. Barraida,<br />

6. Dão<br />

7. Beira<br />

8. Ribatejo,<br />

9. Colares<br />

10. Lisboa<br />

11. Terras do Sado - Setubal<br />

12. Alentejo<br />

13. Algarve<br />

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ALENTEJO<br />

The Alentejo is huge, with its flat plains covering almost a third <strong>of</strong> the country. Much <strong>of</strong> this area is given over to<br />

cereal production. It’s also hot, and irrigation is common. In contrast to the northern regions, with their<br />

fragmented smallholdings, production is dominated by large, pr<strong>of</strong>essional outfits.<br />

The Alentejo is where <strong>Portugal</strong>’s climate finally escapes the Atlantic influence, and the scenery changes to large,<br />

gently undulating plains that experience baking hot summers and cold winters more typical <strong>of</strong> continental<br />

weather systems. Think <strong>of</strong> it as <strong>Portugal</strong>’s ‘new world’, with the potential to make extrovert, ripe wines with a<br />

taste <strong>of</strong> the sun about them. This is the least populated <strong>of</strong> <strong>Portugal</strong>’s regions, and instead <strong>of</strong> the smallholdings<br />

that typify the agricultural landscape elsewhere, the Alentejo has many large estates. Referred to as the ‘bread<br />

basket’ <strong>of</strong> <strong>Portugal</strong>, wheat is the most important crop here, with the poorer soils being reserved for olive trees,<br />

cork oaks and vineyards.<br />

Some white wines are made in the Alentejo, but it’s the reds that are forging the region’s reputation. Demand<br />

for Alentejo wines, with their ripe fruit and full-bodied character, has been such that vineyard land here is<br />

among the most expensive in the whole country. Because many <strong>of</strong> the estates are fairly large and the climate is<br />

so reliable, economies <strong>of</strong> scale mean that Alentejo wines can combine quality with affordability, which is more <strong>of</strong><br />

a challenge in <strong>Portugal</strong>’s more northerly regions.<br />

Adega da Cartuxa, Pera-Manca, 2007, DOC<br />

Antonio Maria 2006<br />

Ciconia Touriga Nacional Syrah<br />

Dona Maria 2006<br />

Dona Maria Reserva 2005<br />

Grape Varieties: Antão Vaz, Arinto. Massively heavy bottle,<br />

surprisingly refined, subdued nose, with nuts and herbs over<br />

cool, but focused melon and citrus fruit. The palate is searingly<br />

dry, with a very cool, tempe, concentrated minerality that has<br />

huge, shimmering length.<br />

Green pepper up front, lots <strong>of</strong> sour cherry. A very creamy<br />

texture, chocolate and leather and then a dusting <strong>of</strong> cocoa and<br />

mint. Very nice.<br />

The wine posses a complexity <strong>of</strong> aromas that suggest berries,<br />

with some toasted notes as a result <strong>of</strong> a short period in oak,<br />

that in combination with good structure <strong>of</strong> bark allows it the<br />

presentation <strong>of</strong> a very rounded and balanced wine in the<br />

mouth.<br />

Intense violet color with a bountiful palate <strong>of</strong> rich plums,<br />

violets,a hint <strong>of</strong> cherry and some sweet tannins. the finish is<br />

long and complex. perfect for steaks or aged cheeses<br />

Quite closed, dark tobacco, lots <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee and coconut husk.<br />

Leather, some liquorice on the finish. It just lacks a little in<br />

fruit.<br />

Esporao Private Selection 2009 Smoke and herbal notes, with a charry and grass Semillon hit –<br />

but this is very good. Carries and very fresh but with real<br />

unfruity detail and tug. Turns out to be 90% Semillon with<br />

some Marsanne and Roussanne.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

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Fita Preta Palpite 2008<br />

Real marzipan and honey nose and then slight furry and full<br />

palate. Very well made, so fresh! Greengage end and great<br />

mineral filip.<br />

Fundação Engénio de Almeida Pera Manca 2007 Good mid-weight and light on the feet. Rather reserved midpalate<br />

and good savoury meaty end and fresh kind tannin.<br />

Henrique Uva Vinhas da Ira 2006<br />

Herdade da Figueirinha Alentejo Reserva Vinho<br />

2008<br />

Young, oaked nose but not overdone. Slightly plodding palate<br />

with dusty velvet texture that seems to drag the progression<br />

back. Bright enough but two a penny in premium world.<br />

Light and crisp with a touch <strong>of</strong> acidity makes this wine the<br />

perfect warm weather refresher. inexpensive and simple.<br />

Herdade da Malhadinha Nova Marias da<br />

Malhadinha 2007<br />

Herdade dos Grous '23 Barricas' 2008<br />

Herdade dos Grous Reserva 2010<br />

S<strong>of</strong>t, molasses and burnt mulberry roast fruits. Appealing but<br />

then not much development in the mid-palate and very grippy<br />

on the end.<br />

Grape Varieties: Syrah, Touriga Nacional. Big, deep, charry and<br />

smoky nose with a lift <strong>of</strong> violet and cherry, to a meatier, more<br />

gamy note. Lovely dry extract - mouth filling, perhaps just a<br />

touch inky at present but glorious fruit beneath.<br />

Light t<strong>of</strong>fee and white chocolate; peachy too. Note <strong>of</strong> glue and<br />

mildly oxidative but expansive leesiness . Good but familiar style<br />

<strong>of</strong> concentration and cold fermentation. Lush fruit nicely tempe.<br />

J. <strong>Portugal</strong> Ramos, Vila Santa 2008 Grape Varieties: Antão Vaz, Arinto & Verdelho. Lots <strong>of</strong> creamy,<br />

vanillin oak here, a certain almond and oatmeal richness. Lovely<br />

palate: a dry, pithy lemon fruit fills the mouth, with lots <strong>of</strong><br />

weight and texture and lovely punch.<br />

Marias da Malhadinha 2004<br />

Mouchao 2002<br />

Preta 2005<br />

Wow! Good aroma, lots <strong>of</strong> cherry and nice clean bramble<br />

aromas. The palate has a lot <strong>of</strong> tobacco, masses <strong>of</strong> dark spice,<br />

aniseed. Good but needs some more time.<br />

Perfumy, nice fruit, a lot <strong>of</strong> cherry and sweet strawberries.<br />

Palate has chewy tannin some noticeable alcohol, with a gutsy,<br />

dry finish.<br />

Blackcurrants, some sweeter fruit too, very leathery with nice<br />

tannin. A s<strong>of</strong>t palate, good balance and a chocolate mint.<br />

Silveira e Outro Solar dos Lobos Grande Escolha<br />

2008<br />

Good tarry and meaty array <strong>of</strong> fruit and then grip to stop you<br />

breathing. So dry on the end.<br />

Terrenus Reserva 2007<br />

Lovely cherry and plum light fruit and then throat tightening grip<br />

on end. All very fresh but not remarkable.<br />

Terrenus, Tinto 2007<br />

Grape Varieties: Aragonês, Trincadeira, Alicante Bouchet.<br />

Scented, savoury, aromatic lift with a really lean, keen edge to<br />

the fruit. Very linear and sinewy stuff.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

9


ALGARVE<br />

The Algarve needs little introduction, it is the southernmost region <strong>of</strong> <strong>Portugal</strong> and it's one <strong>of</strong> Europe's favourite<br />

holiday destinations well known for glorious year round sunshine and excellent sandy beaches. Summer in the<br />

Algarve is dry and clear, with the warm sunshine extending long into autumn. Winters are moderately cold and<br />

are the rainiest time <strong>of</strong> year. Overall the weather is pleasantly mild.<br />

Wine production had taken a back seat to tourism for decades as the Algarve catered for the droves <strong>of</strong> holiday<br />

makers who flock to this beautiful region every year. But now as Sir Cliff Richard would attest, who has his own<br />

vineyard here, wine making in the Algarve is stepping out <strong>of</strong> the shadows.<br />

The Algarve is the only demarcated District in <strong>Portugal</strong> that does not produce a variety <strong>of</strong> white wines along with<br />

its red wine. The red wines tend to be full-bodied, a fruity rich flavour, low acidity, and containing a high alcohol<br />

level. Of late there has been a renewal <strong>of</strong> interest and several smaller private vineyards have been created and<br />

Barranco Longo Rosé 2010 Colour: Deep pink. Grape variety: Aragonez, Touriga Nacional A<br />

smooth taste, reminiscent <strong>of</strong> strawberries and cream.<br />

Barranco Longo Oaked Rosé 2008<br />

Barranco Grande Escolha 2010<br />

Barranco Longo Reserva 2008<br />

Lively pink tone. Red fruit aroma with spicy oak. Rich, complex,<br />

creamy palate, ripe fruit and toasty oak.<br />

Citrus and mineral in a captivating aroma <strong>of</strong> medium intensity. Citrus in<br />

the mouth continues, with notes that give fresh lemonade. Good<br />

persistence<br />

Grape variety: Aragonez, Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark ruby colour, which<br />

complements the well-balanced taste <strong>of</strong> spice and berries.<br />

Monte da Casteleja, Maria Selection 2007<br />

Marquês dos Vales Selecta<br />

Grape Varieties: Alfrocheiro, Bastardo & Alicante Bouschet. Big,<br />

jammy, raspberry and raisin fruitiness with a dense, smoky fruitiness<br />

on the palate.<br />

Ruby with a hint <strong>of</strong> Bordeaux. Red and wild berry fruits, some floral<br />

notes lent by the surrounding rock-roses. Very well rounded wine in<br />

its major organic components (acidity, alcohol content and tannins).<br />

Persistent finish, long and charming, where s<strong>of</strong>t and slightly sweet<br />

tannins are predominant. It goes well with a good assortment <strong>of</strong><br />

sausages and hams, patés, red or white meat and varied game, or a<br />

good board <strong>of</strong> national or international cheeses.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

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Marquês dos Vales Grace Vineyard<br />

Intense ruby with scarlet nuances.<br />

Intense aroma <strong>of</strong> black and red fruits; good vanilla. Full bodied wine,<br />

s<strong>of</strong>t and elegant. Rounded and sweet tannins. Noble acidity. Light<br />

nuances <strong>of</strong> toasted caramel. The well-integrated tannins ensure a<br />

long and aromatic finish. Ideal with sausages and ham, red meats, or<br />

a good selection <strong>of</strong> cheeses.<br />

Marquês dos Vales Grace Touriga Nacional Ruby with violet borders. Generous aromas <strong>of</strong> black and red fruits,<br />

plum and cassis, very seductive, striking hints <strong>of</strong> vanilla. Full bodied<br />

wine. Very well rounded with ripe tannins, fine acidity and persistent<br />

alcohol content. Elegant and persistent, delicate and full <strong>of</strong><br />

complexity in its long finish.<br />

Marquês dos Vales Primeira Selecção<br />

Straw / citrus coloured. Aromas <strong>of</strong> mature white fruits and some<br />

floral. Flavours <strong>of</strong> mature white fruits. Fresh, young and light. It<br />

finishes with elegance in the mouth.<br />

It goes very well with exquisitely cooked fish and seafood, simply<br />

prepared red and white meats, s<strong>of</strong>t cheeses. Very good as an aperitif<br />

wine coupled with a good assortment <strong>of</strong> canapé.<br />

Marquês dos Vales Grace Vineyard Branco Citrus coloured with greenish highlights. Aromas <strong>of</strong> ripe fruits such as<br />

plum, loquat, apricot and floral citrus. With remarkable freshness this<br />

is a wine <strong>of</strong> great class. Long and seductive finish.<br />

It goes very well with light red and white meats, extensively prepared<br />

fish and seafood where herbs are predominant (rosemary, mint,<br />

pennyroyal, coriander), s<strong>of</strong>t cheeses, paté and salads.<br />

Marquês dos Vales Grace Viognier<br />

Emerald coloured. Full <strong>of</strong> complexity with tropical fruits and some<br />

rock rose floral. With excellent freshness it is charming and very<br />

harmonious. Persistent and very beautiful.<br />

It goes very well with light red and white meats, complex fish and<br />

seafood dishes, s<strong>of</strong>t cheeses, paté and salads. The best drinking<br />

temperature is between 6 and 8ºC.<br />

Marquês dos Vales Primeira Selecção Rose Pink coloured. Fruity aroma with subtle notes <strong>of</strong> red berry fruits and a<br />

sense <strong>of</strong> fresh raspberry<br />

Fresh and fruity. It's refreshing acidity provides a s<strong>of</strong>t and fruity<br />

finish. It goes very well with well prepared fish and seafood dishes, a<br />

mixed barbecue <strong>of</strong> white and red meats, very good coupled with an<br />

assortment <strong>of</strong> canapé. The best drinking temperature is between 6<br />

and 8ºC.<br />

Quinta do Francês 2008<br />

Burnt note and tarry with inky blackness but good light fleshed palate<br />

with interest from spice and interest. Then seems to stop and tannic<br />

hit is planky.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

11


BAIRRADA<br />

<strong>Portugal</strong> is one <strong>of</strong> the world’s largest wine producers and wine exporters and both the Portuguese white and<br />

red wines are famous worldwide for their distinct taste and flavor. The Bairrada wine, also known as Vinho da<br />

Bairrada derives its name from the term ‘barros’ meaning clay. Therefore it is evident that the region producing<br />

the Bairrada wines are made up <strong>of</strong> clayey soil. This region comprises <strong>of</strong> an ancient vineyard which had been<br />

existent since mythical times but it was only in 1979 that it came to be recognized as part <strong>of</strong> the demarcated<br />

wine regions or the Regiao Demarcada da Bairrada. In this region made up <strong>of</strong> clayey soils, the grapes are facilitated<br />

to attain full growth and aging as the vines are grown facing the sun. While both red and white castas<br />

contribute to the production <strong>of</strong> the Bairrada wines, it is the Baga casta which is prevalently used in the wines.<br />

This region is further well known for the quality <strong>of</strong> shining white wine it produces. Apart from this variety, the<br />

region produces white wines, red wines and table wines. It is a popular custom in <strong>Portugal</strong> to drink the Vinho<br />

da Bairrada in the accompaniment <strong>of</strong> a roasted piglet in restaurants.<br />

Dao Sul, Encontro 1 2007, DOC<br />

Primavera Barraida Reserva 2005<br />

Quinta da Dôna, 2004, DOC<br />

Quinta das Bageiras Garrafeira 2001<br />

Quinta das Bageiras Garrafeira 2005<br />

Grape Varieties: 50% Baga, 50% Touriga Nacional. Creamy, dense,<br />

lots <strong>of</strong> meaty richness. Very fleshy on the palate: lots <strong>of</strong> dry extract<br />

here, lots <strong>of</strong> fragrant oak too, in a huge, ripe and full-on style.<br />

A dry wine with aromas <strong>of</strong> cherries, blackberries, cassis and a strong<br />

yet flavorful mouth feel which gives <strong>of</strong>f a lasting and memorable<br />

lingering finish.<br />

Grape Varieties: Baga. Huge, creamy blackcurrant and c<strong>of</strong>fee nose.<br />

Very international in style, but lovely depth and polish. Palate has<br />

super sweet, super concentrated fruit, big powerhouse tannins and<br />

beautiful sweetness. huge and arguably not showing a huge sense <strong>of</strong><br />

place, but just delicious.<br />

Very big traditional wine with musty nose and backward texture (in<br />

mag). VA on nose, Tough.<br />

Cherry, chocolate and lots <strong>of</strong> stalky berries. The palate is quite<br />

tannic, very dry and tight. You have to search for the fruit a bit, and<br />

you find currants dominated with booze and spice. Too young, but<br />

will be great<br />

Quinta das Bágeiras, Garrafeira 2007, DOC Grape Varieties: Maria Gomes & Bical. Nicely herby and nutty, with<br />

distinctive bite on the palate: very dry, very grapefruity and pithy<br />

with a wonderful freshness and authority.<br />

Vadio 2009<br />

Vadio Tinto 2006<br />

A blend <strong>of</strong> Cercial (80%) and Arinto d’Anadia. Supple and lemony<br />

with attractive pure fruit. Crisp and light textu. Really appealing. 8<br />

Made in an open fermenter with foot treading, and then aged in old<br />

barrels from Esporão. Supple, fresh and cherryish with good acidity<br />

and some minerality. Really authentic and precise with no rough<br />

edges and beautiful fruit expression. Evolving really nicely.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

12


BEIRAS<br />

Stretching from the Spanish frontier to the sea, the Beiras region <strong>of</strong> central <strong>Portugal</strong> provides a natural link<br />

between the cool, green meadows <strong>of</strong> the north and the hot, dry pastures <strong>of</strong> the south. Coimbra, the provincial<br />

capital, is the birthplace <strong>of</strong> six kings and the seat <strong>of</strong> <strong>Portugal</strong>'s first university, reputedly the second old est in the<br />

world. Its old cathedral is one <strong>of</strong> the finest examples <strong>of</strong> Romanesque architecture in Europe. Further inland, the<br />

peak <strong>of</strong> the Serra da Estrela (Star Mountain) is the highest point on mainland <strong>Portugal</strong>. The terrain in the Beiras<br />

is diverse as is the climate and its flavours.<br />

The vines in the Bairrada region are grown generally on flat land and region that is a major red wine producer in<br />

<strong>Portugal</strong> and is located on the coastal plain lying slightly inland from the sea to the town <strong>of</strong> Aveiro, and then<br />

south down to the town <strong>of</strong> Coimbra. The red wine produced here is noted for its smoothness and suavity, deep<br />

in colour and full-bodied, acquiring a brownish hue as it ages. The white wines are fairly robust, fruity with a hint<br />

<strong>of</strong> lemon. The rosé ranges in colour and are fresh and fruity. Sparkling wines are produced in white and rosé and<br />

range from “Brut” to “Medium Dry”.<br />

For traditionalists the grape <strong>of</strong> choice in the Bairrada region is Baga, a grape variety notoriously difficult to ripen,<br />

which needs lots <strong>of</strong> aging to round <strong>of</strong>f, usually in the local wood type barrels rather than American or French<br />

oak, but the hard work is worth it by far, and come recommended, the older the better.<br />

Filipa Pato Nossa 2009<br />

Lokal Silex 2006<br />

Luís Pato BTT 2009<br />

Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2005<br />

Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2005<br />

Quinta de Foz de Arouce Tinto 1992<br />

Quinta de Foz de Arouce Vinhas Velhas de<br />

Sta Maria 2003<br />

Real concentration here on nose; amber and balsamic notes with<br />

butter and melony fruit and good streak <strong>of</strong> acidity running through.<br />

Quite voluminous but not fat.<br />

Rich and funky, lots <strong>of</strong> lovely sweet fruit, like warm compote. A<br />

chunky wine, lots <strong>of</strong> big flavours but very clean. I like this a lot.<br />

Slightly leafy nose but quite subtle. The extraction is really well<br />

done, no fierce tannin but there’s a watery hole in the middle that<br />

makes one wonder where the terroir went.<br />

Mainly Cerceal. Lovely fresh, intense concentrated white wine with<br />

a limey, almost spicy edge and a hint <strong>of</strong> matchstick uction. Taut with<br />

real intensity and potential, this is fresh and has lovely acidity.<br />

Closed nose, a lot <strong>of</strong> dark, tannic chocolate and lots <strong>of</strong> spice. Just<br />

too full on<br />

Just Baga used here. This is a beautiful wine showing perfumed<br />

floral aromatics with sweet cherry and plum fruit, as well as a hint <strong>of</strong><br />

earth. The palate is smooth and elegant, evolving beautifully with<br />

spicy, earthy structure marrying well with the focused fruit. Finishes<br />

long and spicy.<br />

This was the first vintage <strong>of</strong> this new bottling, which separated out<br />

the old vine fruit from the young vines. Quite smooth and pure with<br />

almost lush berry and cherry fruit, as well as a slight acidic lift. The<br />

palate has lovely firm yet silky tannins with nice acidity and a long<br />

spicy finish. Quite serious. Beginning to open out and really elegant.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

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Quinta de Foz de Arouce Vinhas Velhas de<br />

Sta Maria 2005<br />

Lovely sweet, tight, spicy nose with subtle earthy notes. The palate<br />

is pure and focused with tight structure, and more earthiness. Firm<br />

tannins and good acid. Needs time.<br />

Quinta do Cardo, Seleccao do Enologo 2004 A dark, rich wine, lots <strong>of</strong> moist cigar and leather. Needs more fruit.<br />

Quinta do Cardo, Síria 2008, DOC<br />

Quinta do Ribeirinho Pe Franco 2005<br />

Quinta dos Currais, Colheita Seleccionada,<br />

2007, DOC<br />

Grape Varieties: Síria. Very pithy and limey, with a dry lemon fruit,<br />

though the palate is vibrant and bursts through with a very zesty,<br />

bright, more tropical, ruby grapefruit zing.<br />

Very nice, s<strong>of</strong>t, juicy fruit. All raspberries and menthol. The palate is<br />

lovely, a bit <strong>of</strong> spice and heat, but not at all dominating. A good,<br />

clean, lighter finish.<br />

Grape Varieties: Síria, Fonte Cal, Arinto. Gentle toast here, a lovely<br />

buttery richness. Smooth, full and mouth-fillingly waxy texture. Full<br />

and luscious, with a long, shimmering finish.<br />

Quinta dos Termos Selecção 2007<br />

Another wine with rather furry extraction and slightly smothe fruit<br />

making you wonder about the fermentation temperature and how<br />

much press wine. Seems like a reasonable supermarket wine.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

14


COLARES<br />

The history <strong>of</strong> <strong>Portugal</strong> records the inclusion <strong>of</strong> the country as a part <strong>of</strong> the territory <strong>of</strong> the Roman Empire<br />

around 138 BC. It was since those ancient times that there developed a bonding between wine cultivation and<br />

<strong>Portugal</strong> which continues over the years, long after the country has been released from the clutches <strong>of</strong> the then<br />

formidable Romans to become an independent state and a member <strong>of</strong> the European Union. <strong>Portugal</strong> boasts <strong>of</strong><br />

producing innumerable varieties <strong>of</strong> wines and <strong>of</strong> them some are superior variety like the Port wine and the<br />

others inferior in comparison. However, wine cultivation and preservation <strong>of</strong> vineyards is considered as an<br />

activity <strong>of</strong> immense importance in <strong>Portugal</strong> and not only does it foster economic growth but also allows<br />

employment opportunities.<br />

The Colares wines are made <strong>of</strong> the white and red castas or grape varieties. These kinds <strong>of</strong> wines are produced<br />

in maximum proportions in the outskirts <strong>of</strong> Lisbon, the largest city <strong>of</strong> <strong>Portugal</strong>, in the area between the foothills<br />

<strong>of</strong> Roca Cape and Sintra. There are several factors which have contributed to the Colares wine being one <strong>of</strong> the<br />

most expensive <strong>of</strong> the various wine varieties that are produced in <strong>Portugal</strong>. The foremost reason is related to<br />

the place <strong>of</strong> production. Lisbon is the major city <strong>of</strong> <strong>Portugal</strong> and has an overwhelming urban populace.<br />

Therefore much <strong>of</strong> the areas surrounding the city are occupied by human settlements and therefore, there is<br />

very little space that remains available for creating vineyards and producing wine. Thus what happens is that<br />

production is always low compared to the demand thus resulting in soaring prices for the Colares wine. This<br />

wine has a sort <strong>of</strong> fruity and nutty taste and the favorable temperature for the consumption <strong>of</strong> white wines is<br />

12 degrees Celsius while it is measured at 18 degrees Celsius for the red wines.<br />

Adega Regional de Colares Arenae<br />

Colares Malvasia 2006<br />

Quinta das Vinhas de Areia,<br />

Fundaçâo Oriente Ramisco 2005, DOC<br />

In 50cls; herbal and mineral nose. Slightly flat but grassy and<br />

phenolic dry palate with interest. Touch iodic and saline.<br />

Grape Varieties: Ramisco (100%). Lovely earthy minerality about<br />

this, with a deep vinous fruitiness and lovely gamy touches.<br />

There's fantastic fruit concentration here in a delicious, sappy and<br />

well balanced wine.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

15


DÃO<br />

The origin <strong>of</strong> the art <strong>of</strong> wine cultivation and wine drinking can be traced to back to the ancient times, centuries<br />

before the birth <strong>of</strong> Jesus Christ when in order to appease the formidable deities, human beings organized ceremonies<br />

celebrating the glory <strong>of</strong> the gods were wine drinking was a significant means <strong>of</strong> celebrating joy and happiness.<br />

Since then nothing much ahs changed to date. Nowadays, almost all celebrations are incomplete without<br />

wines and other alcoholic drinks. <strong>Portugal</strong> has had a long association with wines and the custom <strong>of</strong> wine cultivation<br />

and production.<br />

The Dao wine also known in <strong>Portugal</strong> as Vinho do Dao are popular variety <strong>of</strong> wines produced from both the red<br />

and white castas i.e. grape varieties. The Dao wines are obtained from the northern part <strong>of</strong> central <strong>Portugal</strong> in the<br />

Mondego and Dao river areas. These are mountainous regions having temperate climatic characteristics and these<br />

climatic factors have a positive effect on Dao wine cultivation as it protects the grapes or castas from the continental<br />

and maritime climatic influences. The Dao wine has been conserved and protected since the closing years<br />

<strong>of</strong> the 14th century. But it was only in the late 1908 that the region producing Dao wine was brought under the<br />

list <strong>of</strong> the Demarcated Wine Regions. The distinct flavor <strong>of</strong> the Dao wines is added to it by the red and white castas.<br />

Some <strong>of</strong> the kinds <strong>of</strong> white castas used include Cerceal Branco, Bical, Encruzado and some <strong>of</strong> the red casta<br />

varieties used include Rufete, Jaen, Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro etc. In fact, one <strong>of</strong> the castas used in its production<br />

like the Touriga Nacional are available only in <strong>Portugal</strong> and in no other part <strong>of</strong> the world. This is probably<br />

one <strong>of</strong> the reasons why according to many vintners, the Dao wines are the best Portuguese table wines, with the<br />

foremost among them being the ‘Alianca’ and the ‘Grao Vasco’.<br />

Cabriz Escolha 2004<br />

Casa de Mouraz 2009<br />

Filipa Pato, Lokal Silex 2008, DOC<br />

Flor das Maias 2005<br />

Fontes da Cunha Munda Touriga Nacional<br />

2008<br />

Julia Kemper Reserva 2009<br />

Sweet chocolate and lots <strong>of</strong> dried fruit steeped in booze! A bit too tannic,<br />

and very very big.<br />

Mildly neutral nose but grows in mouth; real mineral crunch and interest.<br />

Lasts.<br />

Grape Varieties: 85% Touriga Nacional. Beautifully aromatic and<br />

scented, juicy, bright berries and cherries, with a beautifully firm core<br />

<strong>of</strong> fruit. A liquorice edge <strong>of</strong> cherry skin and plum, silky but precise with<br />

huge length.<br />

An initial sweetness, quite like espresso with bundles <strong>of</strong> brown sugar<br />

in, then hints <strong>of</strong> mocha and a touch <strong>of</strong> caramelised onion. The palate<br />

is nice, hints <strong>of</strong> leather, a bit too much alcohol and firm tannin. It<br />

calms down however and with some food, the alcohol will be masked.<br />

Nice.<br />

Haunting violet and grilled meat nose. Great light poise to the palate<br />

and in the context <strong>of</strong> <strong>Portugal</strong>, quite finely extracted tannins, even<br />

though they are dense. Goes on with meat and interest and mediumlong<br />

finish.<br />

Bright fresh elderflower and mild uctive nose. Weight but keeps poise.<br />

Malvasia Fina and Encruzado<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

16


Pape 2005<br />

Primavera Dao Vinho Tinto Reserva 2006<br />

Quinta da Falorca Lagar Reserva 2004<br />

Quinta da Falorca, T-Nac 2007, DOC<br />

A blend <strong>of</strong> Touriga Nacional and Baga, this is a nice, earthy wine<br />

with vegetal aromas. Bramble stalk comes along before a palate <strong>of</strong><br />

stony, cherry stone and wild raspberry. Very clean with a lovely<br />

finish.<br />

A dry table wine that goes well with meats.<br />

Perhaps too much VA on the nose to be that good. Lean palate with<br />

hole to match and yet quite light grip. Elements <strong>of</strong> prettiness but not<br />

in the quality race it seems.<br />

Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional. Big, smoky herbal hit. Lots <strong>of</strong><br />

tobacco but quite lifted, cherryish fruit. The palate is dry and has<br />

plenty <strong>of</strong> tannin, coating the palate over that smooth but bright fruit.<br />

Quinta da Pellada, Tinto Reserva 2006, DOC Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz. Meaty and spicy, with<br />

fantastically gamy edges <strong>of</strong> perfume. Love the orange and lemon<br />

zestiness to the acidity here, in a wonderfully fresh style.<br />

Quinta da Vegia Reserva 2005<br />

Quinta de Cabriz, Colheita Seleccionada<br />

2007, DOC<br />

Quinta de Saes, Reserva 2008, DOC<br />

Quinta de San José, Colheita 2007, DOC<br />

Quinta do Corujão Reserva 2007<br />

Quinta do Perdigao Touriga Nacional 2005<br />

A sweet aroma with blueberries and cherry. Good clean fruit with<br />

cocoa and Bolivar cigars. There is too much alcohol though on the<br />

palate with a bitter finish.<br />

Grape Varieties: Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional & Tinta Roriz.<br />

Beautifully earthy and liquoricy, a touch <strong>of</strong> gamy quality, lots <strong>of</strong><br />

perfume here. Fresh and appetising palate, quite fragrant too.<br />

Grape Varieties: Encruzado, Cercial, Malvasia, Gouveio. Lovely nose,<br />

fairly understated with orchard fruits and a sense <strong>of</strong> oatmeally<br />

richness, some mineral notes too. The palate has delicious tang and<br />

vibrancy, the lemony, pithy acidity making this very food friendly.<br />

Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca.<br />

Beautifully gravelly as well as being fresh and fruity, with masses <strong>of</strong><br />

cherry, berries and beautifully judged background oak. .<br />

Airy appeal to the fruit here and a good plummy crunch with light<br />

raspberry notes coming through. Rather tough on the end in very<br />

Portuguese style. Good but not that special.<br />

Herby meat aromas, lots <strong>of</strong> black cherry and blackcurrant. Smoky<br />

barbecued pork sausage on the palate, mixed with chocolate and a<br />

hint <strong>of</strong> balsamic.<br />

Quinta dos Carvalhais Colheita Seleccionada Apple, plum and smoke, oaked nose but not oppressive. Then<br />

2006<br />

berry dry and citrus pith texture and flavour – compelling and grown<br />

up. Good<br />

Quinta Dos Grilos 2008<br />

Quinta dos Roques, Garrafeira 2003, DOC<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

This wine with a limited production is only produced in years <strong>of</strong><br />

great quality and it was aged for six months in French oak barrels.<br />

The grapes <strong>of</strong> great quality, allowed to produce this wine that you<br />

can consume immediately or you can hold it in your seller for six<br />

years.<br />

Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional (65%), Alfrocheiro (15%), Tinto<br />

Cão (10%). Big, very meaty nose, with lots <strong>of</strong> oak, lots <strong>of</strong> deep fruit<br />

and a slightly uctive edge. The palate has real depth and<br />

concentration. There's masses <strong>of</strong> fruit and delicious weight to this,<br />

the tannins meaty and dense and the whole picture powerful though<br />

balanced.<br />

17


Sul Cabriz Reserva 2008<br />

Vinha do Contador 2005<br />

Vinha Paz, Reserva 2005, DOC<br />

Open appealing plum and ink nose; mercifully translucent wine with<br />

well supported lithe structure and moves well. A lightness. But<br />

does not gather pace or concentrate much. One tends to lose<br />

interest. Tannins good.<br />

Lots <strong>of</strong> menthol, lots <strong>of</strong> cherry – I would say cherry tunes but that<br />

does it a disservice. A bundle <strong>of</strong> fruit and pipe tobacco, very tannic<br />

but it is delive well. Needs time to settle down.<br />

Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro. Very<br />

smooth, creamy, beautifully composed black fruit. Lots <strong>of</strong> creamy<br />

black fruit and cassis intensity. Fabulous freshness here again, very<br />

fleshy and rich, but creamy and powerful, again with great intensity,<br />

but feels naturally so.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

18


DOURO<br />

The scenery <strong>of</strong> the Douro region is spectacular. As far as the eye can see, the mountainous terrain is covered<br />

with countour-line-like terraces. The scale is impressive, too. There’s just so much <strong>of</strong> it. I don’t think I’m<br />

exaggerating too much when I say that the Douro is one <strong>of</strong> the wonders <strong>of</strong> the world.<br />

Then there’s the soil. The ‘terroir’, is just about perfect for growing quality wine grapes. It’s schist, with a bit <strong>of</strong><br />

granite here and there. It doesn’t look promising for growing anything, but vines flourish in these conditions.<br />

The poor soil encourages them to sink their roots deep, where they find a steady but stingy water supply and<br />

divert their energies to grape production.<br />

In a relatively short period <strong>of</strong> time the Douro has established itself as <strong>Portugal</strong>’s premium wine region. It’s hard<br />

to overstate the scale and pace <strong>of</strong> change that is currently taking place in this most spectacular <strong>of</strong> wine regions.<br />

Table wine has always been made here but were secondary to the requirements <strong>of</strong> Port producers. In recent<br />

years a critical mass <strong>of</strong> like-minded winemakers has emerged, passionate about making the very best wines that<br />

these remarkable terroirs are capable <strong>of</strong>.<br />

Alves de Sousa Reserva Pessoal 2005<br />

Alves de Sousa, Abandonado 2005, DOC<br />

CARM 2010<br />

CARM Grande Reserva 2007<br />

Carm Quinta Do Coa 2008<br />

CARM Reserva 2009<br />

CARM Reserva Tinto 2008<br />

CARM Rosé 2010<br />

Yellow; nose is all greengage, complex honey and rock and herbal<br />

notes, very focused and slight bitter edge pulling you in. Palate is<br />

very tempe with wood contact oxidative and lees notes and roast<br />

apricot. A very full but rapie, dried citrus peel and tidy end. Refined<br />

and elegant. Old vines blend.<br />

Grape Varieties: Douro grapes. Very cedary, high quality. Powerful<br />

with lots <strong>of</strong> mint, liquorice and black plum bite. Nicely tempe palate,<br />

with a racy edge to the tannins and lovely spice and grip.<br />

Nicely bright and fruity with crisp, lemony fruit and nice acidity.<br />

Some hints <strong>of</strong> peachy richness. A nice pure style.<br />

Dense, rich, ripe and spicy with some tarry notes. Some oak but very<br />

rich and still well defined. Direct and fruity with good potential.<br />

A plush , with a pretty array <strong>of</strong> raspberry and plum flavors that are<br />

supple and supported by medium-grained tannins. Notes <strong>of</strong> milk<br />

chocolate and cream fill the plush finish. Drink now through 2014.<br />

Oak adds a hint <strong>of</strong> vanilla and some spice to the lovely pure citrus<br />

fruit. Great precision with nice acidity.<br />

Ripe, juicy, spicy and tarry with focused berry fruits and some<br />

meaty, spicy definition.<br />

Nice bright pink colour. Lovely tight, fresh cherry and berry fruit.<br />

Fruity style.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

19


CARM Tinto 2008<br />

CARM Touriga Nacional 2009<br />

Sweet ripe berry and cherry fruit here. Rich fruity style with some<br />

spicy notes.<br />

Vivid, bright and cherry/berry fruited with primary fruit to the fore.<br />

Vibrant in colour, this has a really youthful character. Some tannin.<br />

Unusual, with amazing cherryish fruit. Apparently, this wine changes<br />

dramatically in the bottle: it’s hard to pin down. No added sulphur<br />

dioxide.<br />

Casa Fereirinha Barca Velha 2000<br />

Castello d'Alba 2009<br />

Rich, sweet aroma, lots <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee, chocolate and cherry. There is mint,<br />

lots <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee with mature tannin. A very tasty raspberry flavour with<br />

some stalk elements too.<br />

A medium-bodied and peppery , with berry flavors. The supple finish<br />

features notes <strong>of</strong> vanilla, with hints <strong>of</strong> smoke. Tinta Barroca, Tinta<br />

Roriz, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional.<br />

Castello d'Alba 2009<br />

Caves Vale Do Roso 2009<br />

Churchill Estates 2006<br />

Churchill Estates 2007<br />

Vibrant acidity and rich, glazed citrus flavors give this Portuguese<br />

white plenty <strong>of</strong> verve. Cream and mineral fill the rich finish. Códega<br />

do Larinho, Rabigato and Vinosinho. Drink now.<br />

Flavors <strong>of</strong> dry fruits, cherries, blackberries and cassis. Full bodied and<br />

good extracture and a fresh finish with smooth tannins<br />

Pure and quite sweet with a dark cherry nose. The palate has lovely<br />

fresh bright dark fruit with some spicy richness. Nice savoury finish.<br />

Lovely focus here.<br />

Aromatic and quite floral with sweet dark cherry fruit on the nose.<br />

There’s some lushness here. The palate is supple with elegant sweet<br />

dark fruits. Lovely focus and breadth.<br />

Churchill Estates 2007 14% alcohol. A blend <strong>of</strong> Touriga Nacional (40%), Touriga Franca (30%)<br />

and Tinta Roriz (30%). This deep coloured wine shows beautifully<br />

focused, fresh dark cherry and blackberry fruit with a lovely spiciness<br />

underpinning the pure fruit. This is fresh and complex with a nice<br />

balance between the fresh, ripe fruit and the savoury structure. Quite<br />

a serious effort, and brilliant value for money.<br />

Churchill Estates Grande Reserva 2007<br />

Churchill Estates Grande Reserva 2007<br />

Churchill Estates Reserva 2007<br />

Churchill Estates Touriga Nacional 2007<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

Dark, intense, aromatic nose is floral but masculine at the same time.<br />

Meaty and dense. The palate is firmly structured with lovely dense<br />

spicy, focused fruit and good acidity.<br />

Fresh lemony, toasty nose. The palate is bright with a hint <strong>of</strong> mineral<br />

uction as well as some nice oak use. Really nice barrel-aged style.<br />

Lovely stuff.<br />

Nicely dense, brooding, structured dark fruits here with some oak<br />

imprint. Dense and mouthfilling with real potential.<br />

Very deep colour. Really aromatic and floral nose with meaty, olivelike<br />

savouriness. The palate is dense with a tarry, spicy, savoury,<br />

meaty edge to the vivid fruit. Remarkable stuff.<br />

20


Churchill Quinta da Gricha 2007<br />

Churchill Quinta da Gricha 2007 Douro<br />

Conceito 2006<br />

Conceito Contraste 2007 Douro<br />

Conceito Contraste Tinto 2008<br />

Conceito Tinto 2007<br />

Conceito Tinto 2008<br />

Conceito Vinho 2008<br />

Duas Quintas Reserva Colheita 2005<br />

Brooding, dark and intense with lovely floral blackberry, tar and<br />

sweet dark cherry nose. The palate has attractive mineral<br />

undertones to the smooth but firmly structured blackberry and plum<br />

fruit. Lovely concentration <strong>of</strong> fruit here with some savoury<br />

complexity. It's a warm-climate wine, but there's really good<br />

definition and this should age well over the next couple <strong>of</strong> decades.<br />

Weird as hell. With a label that looked like a person taken over by an<br />

alien in Doctor Who, the Bastardo grape doesn’t have much colour.<br />

It looked like a light rose, but what you got was full on herbaceous<br />

raspberries and a hint <strong>of</strong> orange. The palate was the same, a bit <strong>of</strong><br />

cherry bubblegum and orange touches again, with hot, spicy<br />

flavours. It gets a bit sickly after a few mouthfuls. Commercially, label<br />

excepted, it is dead in the water. As an experience it is great if not a<br />

brilliant wine!<br />

Ripe sweet cherry and blackberry nose is aromatic and pure. The<br />

palate is sweet and ripe with nice purity <strong>of</strong> fruit. Very stylish and ripe<br />

with nice sweet dense fruit. A ripe, fruit driven style.<br />

13.5% alcohol. Deep, vivid colour. Primary and fresh with lovely<br />

bright berry fruits and notes <strong>of</strong> cherry and plum. There’s nice acidity<br />

here, as well as fine-grained tannic structure, lovely purity and<br />

freshness. Will be interesting to see how this evolves.<br />

13.5% alcohol. Attractive sweet black cherry and blackberry nose,<br />

with fresh mineral and tar notes. Quite complex. The palate has nice<br />

balance between the sweet fruit and some gravelly, mineral<br />

savouriness, with grippy tannins. Fresh, taut and delicious.<br />

14% alcohol. Lovely vibrant, fresh dark cherry and raspberry nose<br />

with some floral overtones and notes <strong>of</strong> pepper and spice. The<br />

palate is fresh and cherryish with some tight plummy fruit and lovely<br />

acidity. The tannins are quite firm and there’s some spicy structure,<br />

too, as well as well integrated oak. Very youthful, this is a fresh,<br />

Burgundian style <strong>of</strong> Douro wine with lovely purity and focus, and it<br />

should age beautifully.<br />

14% alcohol. A lovely expression <strong>of</strong> the Douro: sweetly fruited nose<br />

with a hint <strong>of</strong> new oak and fresh dark cherry and spice notes. The<br />

palate has ripe cherry and berry fruits, but also lovely fresh acidity<br />

and elegant structure. Finely wrought already, but with potential for<br />

evolution.<br />

13% alcohol. Just a beautiful white wine, reminiscent <strong>of</strong> top quality<br />

white Bordeaux. Lovely fresh aromatic nose <strong>of</strong> grapefruit and lemon<br />

with hints <strong>of</strong> herbs and vanilla. The palate is fresh and bright with<br />

notes <strong>of</strong> herb and grapefruit, nice presence and some lemony<br />

acidity. Lovely complexity here.<br />

C<strong>of</strong>fee spilled on a suede jacket! Nice and full on, but the palate is a<br />

bit weak and needs more fruit to balance that dominant c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

flavour.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

21


Grainha 2008<br />

Grainha Tinto 2007<br />

Grainha Tinto 2008<br />

Lavradores de Feitoria Meruge 2008<br />

Lemos & Van Zeller, 'Curriculum Vitae'<br />

2007, DOC<br />

Niepoort Batuta 2008<br />

Niepoort Robustus 2004<br />

Niepoort, oma 2007, DOC<br />

Niepoort, oma Reserva 2008, DOC<br />

Passa Reserva 2007, DOC<br />

Pintas 2005<br />

Poeira 2008<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

A blend <strong>of</strong> Viosinho, Gouveio and oak-fermented Rabigato. Nutty, bold<br />

and quite intense with some minerality. Taut with melony fruit and<br />

nuttiness, finishing fresh, with potential for further development.<br />

Fresh and focused with sweet, pure dark cherry and berry fruits on the<br />

nose. The palate is fresh with nice bright cherry and plum fruit and a bit<br />

<strong>of</strong> spicy structure. Nicely integrated oak. It needs some time to open<br />

out fully.<br />

Lovely sweet focused dark cherry/berry fruit nose. Vibrant fruit on the<br />

palate with some spiciness. A delicious fruit-driven style.<br />

Lovely mid-weight, not forcing itself. Char in the background but a<br />

brooding dry chicory and leaf note along with all the gorgeous but not<br />

simple fruit. Good and long. Old vine field blend.<br />

More than 25 different varieties. Massive alcohol (15.5%), and a<br />

massive nose with a little raisined note to dense black fruit and a touch<br />

<strong>of</strong> chocolate. The palate is dry and coats the palate in a thick, rich film<br />

<strong>of</strong> tannin and savoury fruit. Given the huge concentration and weight,<br />

surprisingly easy to drink.<br />

Mid-colour; full finessed plum and cherry fruit and then a caressing<br />

palate with power and drive; kinetic but none <strong>of</strong> the rasping tannins<br />

you might anticipate. Extraction is skilled. And good violet and<br />

succulent end. Moreish. Not fine but quite a wow factor. Mostly Tinta<br />

Amerela.<br />

Big mint aromas and mocha. Then juicy fruit and nice veggies with<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee come leap up your nose. The palate is very well balanced, good,<br />

long graceful evolution <strong>of</strong> flavours, c<strong>of</strong>fee again and a long lasting<br />

bramble flavour with blackcurrant. Good.<br />

Grape Varieties: Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, Tinto Cão<br />

& others. Lovely nose here, smoky, tobacco and earthy notes with a<br />

nicely wild, game and herbal edge. Beautifully bright fruit, dry and<br />

powerful, with lots <strong>of</strong> richness and ripeness, but that great sense <strong>of</strong><br />

place and the balance perfect.<br />

£29.00 Grape Varieties: Rabigato, Codega, Donzelinho, Viosinho,<br />

Arinto and others. Raeburn Fine <strong>Wines</strong>. A fairly subdued, gently oaked<br />

nose with nutty and herbal overtones and solid, cool orchard fruits.<br />

The palate has a very racy dryness, in a much more Chablis style this,<br />

and just lovely.<br />

Mixed vineyard plantings. Big, bold, bloody and dense, with fine, deep<br />

fruit and a classy tobacco and cedar background. Fine palate, flooded<br />

with dense black fruit and the tannins refined, melding into a spicy<br />

oak.<br />

Minty, herby with lots <strong>of</strong> rich, sweet fruit. The palate is clean, lots <strong>of</strong><br />

brambles and chocolate with herbs mixed in. Firm tannin, lots <strong>of</strong> mint<br />

mocha on the finish. Very nice.<br />

Pretty aetherial spice and cassis nose, with savoury blood and roasted<br />

note; palate shows rose-petal finesse alongside currant and leather<br />

and fantail <strong>of</strong> spice and then quite a tough chewy finish which can only<br />

evolve pretty well as the tannin is ripe.<br />

22


Poeira 2005<br />

Pomares 2009<br />

Pomares Tinto 2008<br />

Prats & Symington Chryseia 2008<br />

Quinta da Gaivosa Vinha de Lordelo 2005<br />

Quinta da Pacheca 2010<br />

Quinta da Pacheca Grande Reserva Touriga<br />

Nacional 2009<br />

Quinta da Pacheca Tinto 2009<br />

Quinta da Pacheca Vinha da Rita 2009<br />

Quinta da Romaneira 2005<br />

Lavender and lots <strong>of</strong> herbs mixing with a cherry sweetness. Hints <strong>of</strong><br />

chocolate and leather, nice balance and with c<strong>of</strong>fee on the finish. Very<br />

nice.<br />

A blend <strong>of</strong> Viosinho, Gouveio and Rabigato. Bright and fruity with real<br />

precision. A fresh, citrusy, mineral white with grapefruit notes and<br />

good acidity. Fantastic freshness and personality.<br />

Lovely focused dark fruits nose <strong>of</strong> cherries, berries and plums. The<br />

palate is bright, fresh and precise with lovely presence and some nice<br />

grippy structure. Good acidity, with a hint <strong>of</strong> meatiness on the finish.<br />

Disappointing bottle? Rather VA and lean nose. Then palate packed<br />

with crunchy fruit, cherries and plum and fine tannins. Not<br />

oppressive; I think I’ve seen it better.<br />

Good light fruit, raspberries and brambles. The palate is balanced,<br />

clean with loads <strong>of</strong> chocolate and t<strong>of</strong>fee sweetness. A good long<br />

leathery finish. Nice.<br />

Malvasia, Gouveio and Cerceal. Bright, fruity and taut with nice<br />

crispness and good fruit presence.<br />

Lovely floral, violet, meaty aromatics are varietally true. Dense but<br />

supple berry and black cherry fruit, with notes <strong>of</strong> olives and herbs. A<br />

lovely wine with a fresh finish.<br />

Nice bright, fresh, cherryish nose. Supple with grippy structure. An<br />

attractive wine with nice berry fruits on the palate. Well made.<br />

Only made in special years, from a 3.5 hectare, 60 year old vineyard.<br />

Rich and spicy with lovely dark fruits, some mineral notes and good<br />

structure. Notes <strong>of</strong> olives, tar and herbs with well integrated oak.<br />

Structu and fine.<br />

Outstandingly gentle with nice, raspberry and light brambles. There is<br />

a good balance <strong>of</strong> it’s constituent parts, very elegant with cherry<br />

stones on the finish.<br />

Quinta da Romaneira Reserva 2008 Taste the schist. So tight and tarry but actually not at all overextracted.<br />

Dense tannin but with a velvet gown. This is roast plums<br />

on a boulder in the high Douro, exploding with the heat <strong>of</strong> the rock.<br />

So athletic and poised. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Cão<br />

Quinta de la Rosa Vale do Inferno 2005<br />

Quinta de Macedos, Pinga do Torto 2005,<br />

DOC<br />

Quinta de S. Jose 2005<br />

A rich, stewed dark aroma. Lots <strong>of</strong> damson jam. The palate is heavy,<br />

tannic, dark with lots <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee and chocolate. Not bad at all!<br />

Grape Varieties: 50% mixed old vines & 50% Touriga Nacional and<br />

Touriga Franca. Beautifully fragrant and cherry-scented, with lots <strong>of</strong><br />

leafy freshness as well as very good fruit. Sweet, savoury, and fleshy.<br />

Funky. Lots <strong>of</strong> dark, stewed and raisin fruit. A lot <strong>of</strong> dark liquorice and<br />

chocolate with cocoa powder on the finish. Nice but it lacks something<br />

on the end.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

23


Quinta do Coa, 2007, DOC Superior<br />

Quinta do Crasto Vinha Maria Teresa 2006<br />

Quinta do Crasto, Vinha da Ponte, 2007,<br />

DOC<br />

Quinta do Infantado Reserva 2008<br />

Quinta do Noval 2005<br />

Quinta do Noval 2008<br />

Quinta do Vale D. Maria 2006<br />

Quinta do Vale Dona Maria, 2004, DOC<br />

Quinta Do Vale Meao Meandro 2008<br />

Quinta do Vale Meao 2005<br />

Quinta do Vale Meão 2008<br />

Quinta do Vallado Adelaide 2008<br />

Quinta do Vallado Touriga Nacional 2006<br />

Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca.<br />

Gorgeously deep blackcurrant and black cherry fruit here, with a<br />

smoky edge and some Sandalwood notes. Lovely palate too. This is<br />

modern, plush and deliciously deep, but retains a sense <strong>of</strong> the sunbaked<br />

Douro too. Fine finish.<br />

Polished and perfumed, rosemary and a meaty aroma. The palate has<br />

sweet elements, lots <strong>of</strong> tannin and nice earthy elements. Then the<br />

sweetness comes back in with an abundance.<br />

More than 30 different old vine varieties. Lots <strong>of</strong> creamy vanillin here,<br />

as well as a beautifully rounded, fleshy black plum fruit. The palate has<br />

a real sense <strong>of</strong> concentrated firmness at its core and delightful<br />

balance.<br />

Lovely lifted bright and butcher shop nose. Great sense <strong>of</strong> weight but<br />

athletic and well-set. Tannins quite gentle and successful. Good<br />

premium plus.<br />

Rich, round with dark berries. The palate has a wallop <strong>of</strong> alcohol, loads<br />

<strong>of</strong> tannin, leather and spices. Then the booze kicks in with fresh mint<br />

and leather. Dark and brooding.<br />

Very mineral but short <strong>of</strong> perfume. Warm ferment? And glue note<br />

with very angular frame. Subtle with cherries and kirsch but tannic<br />

end suggests it won’t grow.<br />

From an old vineyard, with old vines that have probably been breeding<br />

amongst themselves for umpteen decades, this is a rich, sweet wine<br />

with nice chocolate and berry flavours. There is a lot <strong>of</strong> heat on the<br />

palate, some firm tannin, but then the finish lets it down by being a bit<br />

weak.<br />

More than 25 different varieties. Gamy and ripe, with a delightful edge<br />

to the fruit, there's a bitter cherry and chicory bite to this making it<br />

very food-friendly and delicious. .<br />

This concentrated shows restrained power to its flavors <strong>of</strong> roasted<br />

plum, dark cherry and blackberry. Broad and rich on the finish, with<br />

plenty <strong>of</strong> savory spice and chocolate notes. Touriga Franca, Touriga<br />

Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Sousão, Tinta Amarela and Tinta Cão.<br />

Good, earthy fruit, a lot <strong>of</strong> cherry and plums. Nice long palate, with<br />

firm tannin and outstanding balance, weight and fruit.<br />

Very neat and complete on the start; good aromatics and opens on<br />

entry. Violet and dark crunch. But then a very tough extracted end.<br />

Compact but spoilt by pushing too far.<br />

Bright rasberry fruit on nose; leafy tug tempers primariness.<br />

Concentration but furry touch <strong>of</strong> over-extraction holds it up. Bright<br />

fruit and intense then sandiness and rather dry medium long end.<br />

A rich, cherry fest. Lots <strong>of</strong> fairly sweet chocolate too. The palate is<br />

nice, clean with lovely dark, leathery flavours. A bit <strong>of</strong> spice and<br />

pepper but too leathery on the finish.<br />

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24


Quinta Nova Colheita Tinto 2008<br />

Quinta Nova Grande Reserva 2007<br />

Quinta Nova Reserva 2007<br />

Quinta Nova Touriga Nacional 2007<br />

Sul Quinta de Tecedeiras Reserva 2008<br />

Wine & Soul Pintas 2008<br />

An unoaked cuvée. Spicy and chocolatey with a slightly balsamic edge<br />

to the ripe blackberry and berry fruits. The palate is ripe, dense and<br />

sweetly fruited with some spiciness and chocolatey richness. Very<br />

attractive.<br />

15% alcohol. This has old vines and more Touriga Nacional. Very<br />

refined and perfumed with spice, dark chocolate and lots <strong>of</strong> blackberry<br />

and dark cherry fruit, as well as a hint <strong>of</strong> meatiness. The palate is<br />

beautifully complex and spicy, showing expressive, rich fruit and well<br />

integrated oak. Powerful, ripe and rich, yet still in balance.<br />

A selection with lots <strong>of</strong> Tinta Amarela and almost no Touriga Nacional.<br />

Highly aromatic nose with lovely complex spiciness and some warmth,<br />

dominated by sweet blackberry and cherry fruit. The palate is fresh<br />

and focused with nice acidity supporting the bright, fresh berry fruit.<br />

Firm but nicely judged tannins provide structure.<br />

15% alcohol. Very aromatic, perfumed nose: floral with some<br />

blackberry and dark cherry fruit. The palate is beautifully expressive<br />

with lovely fresh dark fruits. Very expressive with some grippy tannin<br />

on the finish. Ripe and lush but not at all jammy.<br />

Soapy, slightly tarry nose; bright fruit but similar to many Douro wines<br />

in its black fruit and stony pr<strong>of</strong>ile. Lacks something but clearly<br />

premium<br />

A little hot but lovely cherry and berry fruit with a hit <strong>of</strong> cassis behind.<br />

Big aromatic nose draws you in. Very dense fruit but miraculously<br />

tame (ish) tannins – this is <strong>Portugal</strong> after all. Not sure if this is for the<br />

long term. Classy vanillin oak – cream and Mivi bar. Tar and cassis on<br />

the end. Longish. Old vine field blend.<br />

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25


DURIENSE<br />

Duriense is a Portuguese wine region covering the same area as the Douro DOC and the Port wine region. In difference<br />

from Douro DOC, Duriense VR is a designation at the lower Vinho Regional (VR) level, which corresponds to<br />

table wines with a geographical indication under European Union wine regulations, similar to a French vin de pays<br />

region. Thus, it is the simpler or less typical wines <strong>of</strong> the Douro region that are sold using a Duriense VR label.<br />

Before the creation <strong>of</strong> a separate Duriense VR, the Douro vineyards were part <strong>of</strong> the former Trás-os-Montes VR,<br />

which is now called Transmontano VR and no longer includes the Douro vineyards<br />

Churchill Quinta da Gricha 2005<br />

Apparently 100 years ago Bastardo and Alvarilhão were the most widely<br />

planted grapes in the Douro. They don’t have a lot <strong>of</strong> colour, and this is<br />

why Sousão, a teinturier ( fleshed) variety, was introduced from Vinho<br />

Verde. This is a remarkable wine. It’s a varietal Bastardo made in lagar,<br />

with stems, and no sulfur dioxide addition. Very pale in colour, it looks<br />

like a rosé. It has a beautiful, fresh, aromatic nose with a nice herby<br />

green edge to the bright cherry fruit. The palate is remarkable: even<br />

though this is a pale wine, it is intense, with a rounded texture and<br />

lovely spiciness. Fresh, super-elegant and persistent, this is a beautiful<br />

wine. It’s labelled Vinho Regional because the IVDP refused the Douro<br />

appellation numerous times because this is ‘atypical’.<br />

Conceito Bastardo 2009<br />

Poeira, Pó de Poeira 2008<br />

Quinta do Noval, Cedro 2007<br />

Quinta do Noval, Labrador 2007<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

13% alcohol. An early maturing variety with weak colour that was<br />

popular in the 18th century, but has now steadily abandoned. Pale<br />

cherry colour. Wonderful sweet aromatics: warm herbs, cherry fruit. So<br />

pure and elegant with a leafy edge. The palate is smooth, warm and<br />

sweetly fruited. Light and superbly elegant with lovely cherry and herb<br />

notes, and subtle tannins. Lovely wine.<br />

Grape Varieties: Alvarinho & Gouveio. Pungent, vivacious nose with lots<br />

<strong>of</strong> green fig and bean notes and a smoky oak background. Vibrant<br />

palate too, with lots <strong>of</strong> juicy fruit and an orangy zest, as well as pinsharp<br />

lemon acidity. Delicious and invigorating.<br />

Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Syrah.<br />

Beautifully Sandalwood spicy, tobacco laden aroma, with an intense<br />

mulberry and cherry fruit. On the palate this fills the mouth: sweet and<br />

giving, with a juicy mid-palate, but the tight, liquoricy tannins are<br />

intense and that spice and cedar pushes through. .<br />

Grape Varieties: Syrah. A 100% Syrah wine, that is svelte and velvety<br />

deep, with lots <strong>of</strong> schisty, cedary and peppery character and a deal <strong>of</strong><br />

minerality, as well as a pastry case or baked plum pie aroma. On the<br />

palate the purity <strong>of</strong> that dark, blueberry and damson plum fruit comes<br />

through, with chocolaty tannins and plenty <strong>of</strong> warming, c<strong>of</strong>feeish oak.<br />

Again, this wine retains very good, cherry-skin freshness.<br />

26


LISBOA<br />

Lisboa has a long history in national viticulture. This region’s vine area is made up <strong>of</strong> traditional grape varieties<br />

and the most famous international ones. Lisboa’s diversity <strong>of</strong> relief and microclimates enables the region to<br />

produce a great variety <strong>of</strong> wines.<br />

Formerly known as Estremadura, Lisboa wine region is located north west <strong>of</strong> Lisbon, occupying an area <strong>of</strong> about<br />

40 km. The climate is mild due to Atlantic influence. Summers are fresh and winters s<strong>of</strong>t, though colder in areas<br />

farther from the sea.<br />

Although the region has good potential for the production <strong>of</strong> quality wines, about fifteen years ago it was<br />

essentially known for producing large quantities <strong>of</strong> low quality wine. Since then, the vines and wineries have been<br />

restructured. One <strong>of</strong> the restructuring steps involved planting new grape varieties, chosen according to quality,<br />

not quantity. Today, Lisboa’s wines are known for their good quality/price ratio<br />

The region focused on the growing <strong>of</strong> the noblest Portuguese and foreign grape varieties. In 1993, a new type <strong>of</strong><br />

wine was created: the Vinho Regional Lisboa (free translation: Lisboa Regional Wine). This new type <strong>of</strong> wine<br />

encouraged producers to study the potential <strong>of</strong> the different grape varieties and, currently, most wines produced<br />

in Lisboa wine region are regional (the law for DOC wines is very restrictive on the use <strong>of</strong> grape varieties).<br />

Berco Do Infante Vinho 2009<br />

Casa Santos Lab 2009<br />

Good body and structure in this great find from <strong>Portugal</strong>. Plenty <strong>of</strong> up<br />

front fruit with a hint <strong>of</strong> spice on the finish.<br />

Casa Santos Lab 2008 is tasty, pleasant and focused wine. Aged in<br />

new oak for four months, this is a serious wine for the price.<br />

Cerejeiras 2008<br />

Cortello Vinho<br />

Pronounced "Serajeras", this bottle will show you exactly why Portuguese<br />

wines are on the rise. Right from the start there is a deep bouquet<br />

<strong>of</strong> ripe, well combined fruit and some hints <strong>of</strong> vanilla. On the palate,<br />

notes <strong>of</strong> cherry jam, vanilla and spice with a persistent and<br />

lengthy finish. A great wine for the upcoming months that is food<br />

friendly and affordable.<br />

Ripe fruit aromas are supported by a fresh acidity nicely combined<br />

with smooth tannins.<br />

Quinta de Chocapalha, Arinto 2008 Branco Lovely mealy and lemony richness, with a touch <strong>of</strong> toast. The palate<br />

has real textural breadth and richness too, with that fat, lemony fruit<br />

and lovely acidity. Juicy and mouth-watering.<br />

Quinta de San’Ana Reserva 2005<br />

Quinta do Rocio 2006<br />

A lot <strong>of</strong> rich c<strong>of</strong>fee, tobacco, sweet fruit and loads <strong>of</strong> spice. A sweet<br />

modern wine. A bit <strong>of</strong> a hussy!<br />

A lot <strong>of</strong> veggies, a bit <strong>of</strong> wild raspberries. Good, leathery flavour, well<br />

balanced and well made.<br />

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27


Quinta Sant’ana Riesling 2009<br />

A lovely fluidity here, fresh but weighted with Chenin-like honey and<br />

stone. Good. Discove Riesling – must be warm or very original site.<br />

Excellent even. 17 £9.50<br />

Telha D Ouro 2005<br />

Right from the start there are aromas <strong>of</strong> black fruit and a hint <strong>of</strong> earth<br />

and dried herbs. On the palate there are dark fruit notes as well as<br />

some leather with subtle tannins<br />

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28


MINHO VINHO VERDE<br />

The beautiful green region <strong>of</strong> the Minho is located in the northwest <strong>of</strong> <strong>Portugal</strong> in an area between the rivers <strong>of</strong><br />

The Douro (to the South) and The River Minho on the Spanish border (to the North) and locked in by the mountains<br />

(to the East). The region's climate is greatly influenced by mountains and Atlantic currents. The most significant<br />

feature is the yearly rain levels showing an annual average <strong>of</strong> 1500 mm concentrated mainly in winter and<br />

spring.<br />

With good reason, many Portuguese consider the Minho to be the most beautiful part <strong>of</strong> their country. A rolling<br />

province <strong>of</strong> lush river valleys, forested hillsides, trailing vines and long, sandy beaches, it is immensely pleasing on<br />

the eye, while much is made <strong>of</strong> the Minho's traditional aspect, especially in the mountainous east, where you can<br />

still see wooden-wheeled ox-carts creak down cobbled lanes. Here age-old customs are maintained at dozens <strong>of</strong><br />

huge country markets, festas and romarias.<br />

Vinho Verde is an unique product, miss-understood by some but loved by many. With a blend <strong>of</strong> aromas and petillance<br />

that makes it a delicious natural beverage. Medium in alcohol, Vinho Verde has great digestive properties<br />

due to its freshness, slight fiz and special qualities. It is a highly regarded wine, especially when served chilled for<br />

Summer drinking. The malo-lactic fermentation gives it a distinctive taste and personality. The reds are full-bodied<br />

wines with an intense colour and a rosy or light red foam. The whites usually present a lemony or straw colour.<br />

The strong distinctive character and originality <strong>of</strong> these wines are the result <strong>of</strong> soil and climate characteristics, social-economic<br />

elements, grape varieties and the vinegrowing methods.<br />

The vines, distinguished by their great vegetative expansion in severe conditions, occupy an area <strong>of</strong> almost 35<br />

thousand hectares, corresponding to 15% <strong>of</strong> the national viticultural area.<br />

Afros Vinhão 2009<br />

Afross 2007<br />

Alvarinho Anselmo Mendes 2007 Branco<br />

Anselmo Mendes, Contacto 2008, DOC<br />

Branco<br />

Light body, inky and round, dark and tannic wrench on finish. Might<br />

be fine with oily smoked fish but limited as wine per se. Strange it’s<br />

here.<br />

The Vinhao grape is a fleshed grape which shows in the wonderful<br />

colour. Jamie Goode says “It’s an extreme taste… (and has) rough<br />

edges, but so do many interesting people.” Couldn’t agree more as<br />

the first aroma I got was warm hoover bag! Quite dusty with cherries<br />

and a little bit <strong>of</strong> blackcurrant. The palate is rich, lots <strong>of</strong> juicy cherry<br />

and raspberries. There is a hint <strong>of</strong> bubblegum (residual from the last<br />

wine?!) with a nice spice on the finish.<br />

A rich, dirty aroma. Nice aromas <strong>of</strong> cedar and dried tropical fruit, but<br />

a touch <strong>of</strong> heat on the palate, followed up by mango skin and<br />

pineapple. Nice but I’d stick with the Soalheiro.<br />

Grape Varieties: Alvarinho. Beautiful peachy, smoky freshness with a<br />

really flinty touch and lovely lemony freshness.<br />

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Covela Escolha 2005<br />

Gazela<br />

Giro Sols 2007<br />

Quinta da Aveleda Casal Garcia 750ML<br />

Quinta do Ameal Escolhas 2007<br />

Quinta do Ameal, Loureiro 2008, DOC<br />

Quinta do Feital Alvarinho Dorado Superior<br />

2008<br />

Quinta do Louridal, Poema 2007<br />

Quintas de Melgaço Castrus 2009<br />

Reguengo de Melgaco 2006<br />

Soalheiro Alvarinho 1995<br />

Soalheiro Alvarinho 2000<br />

Soalheiro Alvarinho 2002<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

A Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Franc, Merlot blend. Now biodynamic,<br />

this wine has a bit <strong>of</strong> bubblegum on the nose, some cherry and<br />

leather and a touch <strong>of</strong> pepper. It is a bit thin on the palate, which isn’t<br />

a bad thing, with a stoney flavour and a long, dry, leathery finish. I<br />

think this can improve, but not bad now, if it wasn’t for that<br />

bubblegum element that put me <strong>of</strong>f at the start.<br />

The perfect light and fruity white wine. The bright acidity balances the<br />

subtle fruitiness and medium sweetness. Nice bouquet <strong>of</strong> lemons and<br />

apricots. Good as an aperitif or with light food.<br />

Made from the Loureiro grape, and made by Quinta do Soalheiro and<br />

Dirk Niepoort, this wine had a nice nose <strong>of</strong> lime, a touch <strong>of</strong> clay<br />

springing out <strong>of</strong> somethere, but very lightly. There are hints <strong>of</strong> honey<br />

and more citrus on this long, lingering finish.<br />

Selected grape varieties are brought from the extensive vineyards <strong>of</strong><br />

the Vinho Verde Region to our winery, to produce a smooth and fresh<br />

wine with a delicate aroma. It is the wine with the longest history at<br />

Aveleda and is easily identified by its blue label, which represents one<br />

<strong>of</strong> the magnificent embroideries <strong>of</strong> the Minho region.<br />

Again a Loureiro and it reminded me <strong>of</strong> a Riesling, with lime and some<br />

petrol. The palate was full, quite creamy with nice fruit, good balance<br />

<strong>of</strong> peppery cedar.<br />

A little waxy weight, a delightful lemon sherbet aromatic. This has<br />

huge verve and freshness, and a beautifully focused finish.<br />

Serious wine with bright crunch and touch but helpful complexing<br />

oxidation. Hint <strong>of</strong> glue does not help but real straw and mineral<br />

detail.<br />

Grape Varieties: Alvarinho. Lovely big, leesy, grassy, bold and<br />

assertive nose, with lots <strong>of</strong> minerality and that bold lemony fruit.<br />

Gorgeous mouthful <strong>of</strong> fresh, tangy fruit.<br />

Apricot nose, slight glue in mouth but real weight and presence;<br />

slightly short but very vinous and intriguing.<br />

Another Alvarinho, and you get a funky lime aroma, and I’m not<br />

referring to a good, Cool and the gang type <strong>of</strong> funk. The palate is a bit<br />

unbalanced, with slightly over ripe fruit. I got cardboard on the finish<br />

too. Not my thing.<br />

Yellow/gold colour. Amazing nose showing toasty, waxy, citrussy<br />

notes. The palate is broad and fresh with a strongly herby character.<br />

Toasty and broad with hints <strong>of</strong> butter and petrol. Fresh and assertive,<br />

this is interesting stuff.<br />

A warm year. Gold colour. Bold, aromatic, herby and rich with some<br />

peach notes. Concentrated palate with concentrated, herby, spicy<br />

notes and some tropical fruit, as well as high acidity. Bold and intense,<br />

and still fresh at 8 years old.<br />

Cool year. Yellow/gold colour. Lively, herby, citrusy nose with some<br />

subtle toasty notes and delicate waxy herbiness. The palate is<br />

rounded, a bit nutty and has some toasty notes, as well as bright pear<br />

and citrus fruit.<br />

30


Soalheiro Alvarinho 2003<br />

Soalheiro Alvarinho 2006<br />

Soalheiro Alvarinho 2007<br />

Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas Colheitas 2007<br />

Soalheiro, Primeiras Vinhas 2008, DOC<br />

Deep yellow/gold. Toasty, herby tropical fruit nose. The palate is bold<br />

and intense with broad, rich, nutty fruit. Finished a bit shorter than<br />

the 2002, but is tasty and intense.<br />

Yellow colour. Lovely minerally, citrusy nose. The palate is lively and<br />

bright with fresh herbiness and lovely precision and focus. Nice depth<br />

<strong>of</strong> pure, minerally fruit here.<br />

Very fresh, aromatic, bright and quite estery on the nose, showing<br />

citrus and peach fruit as well as minerals. The palate is pure and<br />

focused with nice citrussy precision and some pear and peach<br />

richness. Lovely.<br />

I have loved the wines from Soalheiro since my trip four years ago and<br />

am a big fan <strong>of</strong> their basic Alvarinho. This, their top wine, is full on<br />

honey, lime and a rich pear aroma. There is more pear on the palate<br />

and some pencil shavings on the finish.<br />

Grape Varieties: Alvarinho. Very ripe, rich, peachy nose: a fuller style,<br />

but retaining that edge <strong>of</strong> salty minerality. The palate has huge<br />

intensity and concentration. There's a wonderfully vibrant gooseberry<br />

and grapefruit tang. 93/100.<br />

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31


RIBATEJO<br />

Tejo, until 2009 named Ribatejo, is a Portuguese wine region covering the same areas as the Ribatejo Province. It<br />

takes its name from the river Tejo (Tagus). The entire region is entitled to use the Vinho Regional designation Tejo<br />

VR, while some areas are also classified at the higher Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) level under the<br />

designation Ribatejo DOC.[1][2] VR is similar to the French vin de pays and DOC to the French AOC.<br />

Located between the Lisboa and Alentejo VRs, the region is dominated by the influence <strong>of</strong> the Tagus river. The river<br />

moderates the region's climate, making it more temperate than other areas <strong>of</strong> <strong>Portugal</strong>. Vineyards are planted on<br />

the fertile alluvial plains along the river and can be prone to producing excessive yields.[3]<br />

In 2009, the region was renamed from Ribatejo to Tejo, the same name as the river flowing through the region, as<br />

part <strong>of</strong> a drive to increase the wine region's international reputation.[4][5] However, the DOC has kept its name<br />

Ribatejo, which removed the previous problem <strong>of</strong> having the same name applied to wines at two different levels <strong>of</strong><br />

Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima Alfrocheiro<br />

2006<br />

Vale d'Algares, 'Selection' 2008<br />

Bubblegum, some strawberries but nothing much else. The palate is ok,<br />

but thin. Needs some structure, all up front fresh fruit, but then just<br />

dribbles away to nothing.<br />

Grape Varieties: Viognier (55%) and Alvarinho (45%). Prominent smoky<br />

oak here is an overriding feature, with the lemony and orchard fruits<br />

beneath. Lovely freshness and terrific bite, that fresh apple fruit slicing<br />

through the finish.<br />

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32


SETUBAL<br />

The Setúbal Peninsula lies across the estuary <strong>of</strong> the River Tagus directly south <strong>of</strong> Lisbon, and linked to Lisbon by<br />

two bridges.<br />

Much <strong>of</strong> the area is flat and sandy, with the exception <strong>of</strong> the Serra da Arrábida, a short chain <strong>of</strong> mountains running<br />

along the south coast <strong>of</strong> the peninsula, It is on these Serra da Arrábida slopes that the grapes are grown for<br />

the famous sweet Moscatel de Setúbal wines.<br />

The Vinho Regional was recently renamed Península de Setúbal.. There are two DOCs, Setúbal and Palmela.<br />

Setúbal is sweet and fortified, made primarily from the Muscat <strong>of</strong> Alexandria grape. It can be labelled Moscatel de<br />

Setúbal when Muscat makes up more than 85 per cent <strong>of</strong> the blend.<br />

It’s a very sweet, fragrant wine, with candied orange flavours, floral and raisiny when young, developing nutty,<br />

t<strong>of</strong>feed aromas with maturity. Moscatel Roxo (a pink grape) makes wines that are even more scented.<br />

DOC Palmela is mainly red, and based on the late-ripening Castelão grape, which is more at home in the hot,<br />

sandy soils <strong>of</strong> Palmela than anywhere else in <strong>Portugal</strong>.<br />

José Maria da Fonseca Hexagon 2007<br />

Adega de Pegoes Cinquentenario 2005<br />

Herdade de Comporta Aragonez/Alicante<br />

Bouschet 2005<br />

Palacio da Bacalhoa 2005<br />

S de Soberanas 2004<br />

Tight wrenching style with ripe hot cedary fruit and bright acid and<br />

touch intrusive Brett.<br />

Lots <strong>of</strong> t<strong>of</strong>fee and chocolate. A sweet aroma with nice spice and a<br />

green leafy backbone. Lacks a little, well, oomph! Something to<br />

make it stand out and say “I’m brilliant”.<br />

Good fruit, damson and plum skin. A lot <strong>of</strong> nice sweet tobacco aromas,<br />

a long palate with a good balance <strong>of</strong> fruit and secondary flavours<br />

<strong>of</strong> leather and tobacco box.<br />

All cherry and green pepper, but that is hardly surprising from a Cabernet,<br />

Merlot, Petit Verdot blend. More veggies than a vegan dinner,<br />

but just not balanced. Needs more oak!<br />

Rich, nutty with lots <strong>of</strong> green pepper and black cherries and liquorice.<br />

Some spice, black pepper and very dark. This is tasty.<br />

Back to INDEX<br />

33


TRÁS-OS-MONTES<br />

Trás-os-Montes is a Portuguese wine region located in the Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro region. The entire wine<br />

region is entitled to use the Vinho Regional designation Transmontano VR, while some areas are also classified at<br />

the higher Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) level under the designation Trás-os-Montes DOC.[1] VR is<br />

similar to the French vin de pays and DOC to the French AOC.<br />

Located in the northeastern corner <strong>of</strong> <strong>Portugal</strong>, the Trás-os-Montes region has vineyards across a wide range <strong>of</strong><br />

altitudes that produces a vast spectrum <strong>of</strong> wine. The vineyards in the cooler high altitude produces wines that are<br />

light bodied while the lower altitude region produces full bodied, highly alcoholic wines. One <strong>of</strong> the first wines to<br />

gain international attention was the semi-sweet, semi-sparkling wine known as rosado.[2]<br />

Douro DOC, which is famous as the Port wine region, is also located in Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro and could use<br />

the former Trás-os-Montes VR designation.[2] However, with the creation <strong>of</strong> a separate Duriense VR, Douro vineyards<br />

are now separate from both the Trás-os-Montes DOC and Transmontano VR.[1]<br />

Valle Pradinhos Reserva 2005<br />

Entirely Cabernet Sauvignon, this has nice, rich, raspberries with some<br />

sage coming through. Lean fruit, a good dollop <strong>of</strong> spice with a leather<br />

coated veggie backbone. I’m a big fan.<br />

Valle Pradinhos 2009 Muscaty hit and good mineral note behind; dry. In fact Gewurzraminer,<br />

Riesling and Malvasia! Well made<br />

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34

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