DAVID BOWIE

THE CITY
ADVENTURES
IN LITTLE EDO
Strolling through Kawagoe’s memory lanes
BY MUBITA MAMBWE
photos of the city’s beginnings and artifacts
from the fire and old-style firefighters. (Adults
¥100, students ¥50, children free; 7-9 Saiwaicho,
Kawagoe-shi, Saitama Prefecture.)
While not a museum, the Osawa House has
its share of stories to tell. Built in 1792, the Osawa
House is the oldest storehouse in Kawagoe and
one of the few remaining storehouses from the
Edo Period (1603-1868). (1-15-2 Motomachi,
Kawagoe-shi, Saitama Prefecture.)
CANDY ALLEY
For lovers of color and confectionery, the
Kashiya Yokocho—or “Candy Alley”—offers
treats for all the senses. Tucked away to the side
of the main path, Candy Alley retains the retro
vibe of the Meiji Period (1868-1912) when its first
candy shop was opened, and shortly thereafter
blossomed into the candy-filled backstreet it
is today. Mom-and-pop candy stores line the
streets selling homemade confectionery utilizing
candy-making methods of yore. Toy stores are
also sprinkled throughout, where guests can
stop and play with Japanese tops, yo-yos, and
a myriad other fun gadgetry from a simpler time.
Quiet 1960s Japan-type coffee shops are
also nearby for a quick repose from wandering
around.
Many travelers flock to Tokyo and its
picture-perfect landscape of neon and
chrome, vibrant with urban activity and
modern convenience. However, north of
the capital lies Kawagoe in Saitama Prefecture, a
portal to a bygone era that abounds with timeless
Japanese charm.
Perhaps what’s instantly striking upon arriving
at Kawagoe is the sense of nostalgia embedded
in the area’s distinctive warehouse-style architecture.
Although Japanese houses were typically
made of wood, this former merchant town’s thriving
commerce allowed for the construction of
low-rise buildings with grey or white clay walls and
black clay roof tiles. This was done in part to protect
the city from further fires, after several broke
out in the 1800s and burned down Kawagoe’s
buildings—the most catastrophic being the Great
Fire of Kawagoe in 1893, which destroyed nearly
a third of the area. But once rebuilt, Kawagoe was
indestructible.
KURAZUKURI STREET
Kawagoe’s vintage vibe is most abundant in
Kurazukuri Street—the unofficial nickname for
culturally-rich Nakacho district—which would
make a visitor feel as though they’ve stepped
into a Ghibli movie. A fifteen-minute walk north
from Hon-Kawagoe Station, Kurazukuri—which
translates to “building a warehouse”—comprises
several blocks housing more than 200
structures in the iconic warehouse style. Many
of these homes have been converted into
stores selling traditional crafts and delicacies,
and the aroma of Japanese barley or green
teas wafts from some of the storefronts. Many
of these houses line up along the main street
of this district, Taisho Roman Dori; occasionally,
locals dressed in kimono and other traditional
attire roam around.
TIME AFTER TIME
Kawagoe’s most iconic landmark can be found
here: the Toki no Kane clock tower. As history has
it, the majestic tower was built in the mid-1600s,
toward the start of the Edo Period, and was
rebuilt four times following several outbreaks
of fire in the city. The bell, which now functions
mechanically, chimes four times a day: at 6am,
12pm, 3pm, and 6pm.
MUSEUMS
The several museums scattered around Kawagoe
are comprehensive enough in documenting the
city’s rich history to satisfy the curious visitor.
The Yamazaki Art Museum, located by the
outer edges of Nakacho, features artwork from local
artists. The pieces are few but provide a quaint
look at how artists viewed the world around them,
and getting to see the interior of the warehouse
gallery is a plus. (Adults ¥500, students ¥350;
4-13 Nakacho, Kawagoe-shi, Saitama Prefecture.)
The former residence of an Edo-era tobacco
salesman, the Museum of Kurazukuri, across
the street from the clock tower, delves into
Kawagoe’s history of fires with its display of
FESTIVAL
Kawagoe’s popularity peaks every third
weekend of October, when the 360-yearold
Kawagoe Festival draws in tourists from
around the country with its lively percussive
music and accompanying dance, and massive
floats ported around. Off-season, images from
and information about the festival, which has
become a symbol of the city, can be found at the
Kawagoe Festival Museum (2-1-10 Motomachi,
Kawagoe-shi, Saitama Prefecture).
GETTING AROUND
While much of Kawagoe is accessible on foot, the
most convenient mode of transport is the Koedo
Loop Bus, which can be taken from Kawagoe,
Hon-Kawagoe, and Kawagoe-shi Stations. The
bus route goes through a majority of the popular
sightseeing destinations, including those in
Kurazukuri Street and other nearby sites such
as Kitain Temple and Honmaru Goten. The bus
comes around every 30 minutes.
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