DAVID BOWIE

Thunderbox, from designer Tsuyoshi
Morita, is a surprisingly well-kept secret
on the Tokyo fashion scene. Word of it
spreads purely via its fans’ backs across
the city as fellow streetwear aficionados clock
the geek-chic references and gravitate to the
Thunderbox mothership. Accordingly, the
recently opened flagship is named Nazo no
Mise—literally, “the mystery shop”—and, in
keeping with the designer’s subcultural leanings,
is located in Nakano over in West Tokyo,
a stone’s throw from the subculture mecca of
Nakano Broadway.
The streetwear style Thunderbox subscribes
to is in line with a lot of the hype-fuelled
brands of the Harajuku backstreets. But once in
the store, it’s an altogether welcoming experience—even
if the store staff are known to wear
the Thunderbox masks that accompany each
season. The masks themselves are made from
various pieces of subcultural paraphernalia:
for the gaming-themed collection, masks are
made from old controller and Game Boy parts;
and for the “mecha”-themed output, Gundam
plastic model kits find themselves repurposed.
This approach extends directly to the clothes
themselves, wherein, like the masks, various
subcultural references are dissected and arranged,
always with a sense of humor, and
crucially with a sense of style.
It’s this all-important sense of style that separates
Thunderbox from the usual geek-chic
fare. Its references are kept relatively guarded
but also pleasantly obscure, that only those in
the know will ... well, know.
In the upcoming season, the designer’s ongoing
affair with retro games gets center stage.
Foreign fans will be delighted to see a range of
items inspired by the color scheme and lines
of both Nintendo’s Japanese Famicom and the
Western NES turn up in competing designs.
Even the ubiquitous NES Zapper turns up in
fashion form. If that last sentence lost you, this
might not be the brand for you. But elsewhere
in the output, there’s bound to be a reference
that appeals, whether it be the red arm bands
inspired by legendary avant-garde electronic
act Yellow Magic Orchestra, or any number of
on-the-nose nods to Star Wars. The eclectic
mix of references is not only well-observed, but
also well-executed. D-pads turn up as buttons,
8-bit characters are embroidered, and it just
satisfies the craving to wear your subcultural
affiliations in a way that any number of halfhearted
collaborations and merchandise can’t.
Shop visitors will discover the current
graffiti and kung-fu themed collection on the
racks, as well as some of the fixed items that
turn up every season, including a particularly
popular Game Boy-themed riding jacket, where
unbelievably the buttons, D-pad, and even
speaker slits are included in the cut of the
jacket. Those looking to get started can easily
buy into the accessories, including energy
power-up-themed studded bracelets; failing
that, the snapbacks and headwear are an easy
entry point. At the other end of the spectrum,
while designer Morita likes to keep the label
open to all—especially on the price—he does
venture into one-offs and limited runs of more
extreme items. A particular highlight is a Tetsuo
(from manga Akira)-inspired shirt, where one
sleeve seems to be mutating before your very
eyes. Refreshingly, no matter where you look,
you can feel the designer’s sincere admiration
for the source material in every last stitch.
If that has piqued your interest, you can find
the brand online—but a visit to the Nakano
store is truly recommended. Not only does it
give you a chance to see the brand in its real
cultural context, but it’s also home to an ultrarare
original gacha machine from Cosmos,
and a fully functional Street Fighter arcade
machine, where I am currently 2-1 up on the
designer. In essence, this is Nakano culture
distilled in fashion form. And while an essential
part of any subculture is hoping not too many
people catch on, this is one brand for whom the
big time is only a matter of time.
www.thunder-box.jp
Photos by Samuel Thomas
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