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Ramadan in Turkey

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<strong>Ramadan</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Turkey</strong><br />

Fasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g & unspoilt<br />

Alibey Island<br />

Seek<strong>in</strong>g a quieter place dur<strong>in</strong>g your<br />

<strong>Ramadan</strong> break? Hit up Edremit Bay<br />

on <strong>Turkey</strong>’s West Coast, an idyllic<br />

location with beautiful beaches,<br />

picturesque villages, cosy hotels and<br />

an impressive cultural heritage<br />

BY ARNO MAIERBRUGGER<br />

Grow<strong>in</strong>g ever popular<br />

among Middle Eastern<br />

tourists, <strong>Turkey</strong> offers<br />

someth<strong>in</strong>g for everyone,<br />

rang<strong>in</strong>g from<br />

beach holidays, yacht<strong>in</strong>g and div<strong>in</strong>g<br />

to city and shopp<strong>in</strong>g trips, jungle<br />

trekk<strong>in</strong>g, eco-lodg<strong>in</strong>g and even<br />

ski<strong>in</strong>g. Visitors are <strong>in</strong>deed spoilt for<br />

choice <strong>in</strong> <strong>Turkey</strong>.<br />

However, for the quieter sea-<br />

son of <strong>Ramadan</strong> we recommend a<br />

place slightly off the beaten track,<br />

or at least away from the crowds<br />

that usually flock to Aegean towns<br />

such as Bodrum and Marmara<br />

with busy seaside avenues. Edremit<br />

Bay, a lesser known tourism<br />

spot, but nonetheless equipped<br />

with first-class touristic <strong>in</strong>frastructure,<br />

is a good place to kick<br />

back dur<strong>in</strong>g the holy month.<br />

Edremit Bay is a quieter gem on<br />

the tip of the northern Aegean Sea<br />

on the west coast of <strong>Turkey</strong>, 90<br />

m<strong>in</strong>utes from Gallipoli, says Somer<br />

Sivrioglu, Turkish-Australian chef<br />

and well-known travel blogger.<br />

He sums up what makes the<br />

place worth a visit: It’s the picturesque<br />

villages, delicious local food,<br />

some of the best boutique hotels<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>Turkey</strong>, shops and the markets<br />

where one can f<strong>in</strong>d orig<strong>in</strong>al handicraft<br />

items and a large variety of<br />

local produce such as cheeses, olives,<br />

fresh vegetables, andwild<br />

weed from the mounta<strong>in</strong>s.<br />

THE OLIVE RIVIERA<br />

The area around the bay is one<br />

Edremit Bay is a good<br />

place to kick back dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the holy month<br />

of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s central olive oil produc<strong>in</strong>g<br />

regions. The Olive Oil Museum<br />

<strong>in</strong> the city of Adatepe up north offers<br />

fasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>sight.<br />

This is also the reason the bay<br />

is called the Olive Riviera, as its<br />

shores are almost entirely covered<br />

with olive trees. In addition, the area<br />

is filled with natural and historical<br />

assets, and there are many old<br />

houses boast<strong>in</strong>g traditional architecture.<br />

For example, Assos is<br />

a small and serene seaside town<br />

west of Edremit city, famous for<br />

its ancient Temple of Athena. On a<br />

clear day, the Greek island of Lesbos<br />

can be seen to the south.<br />

SIGHTS AND SOUNDS<br />

In the north of the bay lies a<br />

mounta<strong>in</strong>ous region that is great<br />

for trekk<strong>in</strong>g, which can be comb<strong>in</strong>ed<br />

with visits to historical sites<br />

such as the ancient Greek city of<br />

Antandros and the Bath of Aphrodite,<br />

a natural pool from Roman<br />

times. Excavations of the bath are<br />

still <strong>in</strong> progress. Another attraction,<br />

Kazdagi, or Mount Ida is a national<br />

park north of Edremit Bay<br />

that boasts thermal spr<strong>in</strong>gs and<br />

extremely diverse flora and fauna.<br />

“[Edremit Bay] is the prime holiday<br />

country for Turks liv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Istanbul<br />

and Izmir,” says Pat Yale,<br />

UK-born travel writer, who moved<br />

to <strong>Turkey</strong> <strong>in</strong> the 1990s.<br />

“It is, after all, backed by the<br />

foothills of the Kazdagi mounta<strong>in</strong>,<br />

where Yesilyurt and Adatepe<br />

are two of the prettiest villages<br />

<strong>in</strong> all of <strong>Turkey</strong>. Kucukkuyu and<br />

Tahtakuslar have <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g small<br />

museums. The old part of Alt<strong>in</strong>oluk<br />

is full of f<strong>in</strong>e old Ottoman houses.<br />

There are amaz<strong>in</strong>g Roman ru<strong>in</strong>s<br />

tucked away amid the olive trees,<br />

and the beach at Oren is spectacularly<br />

beautiful.”<br />

Add<strong>in</strong>g to the scenery, is the<br />

Ayvalik archipelago <strong>in</strong> the south, a<br />

group of 22 large and small islands<br />

and a popular summer dest<strong>in</strong>ation<br />

mostly for locals and <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>gly<br />

for foreign tourists look<strong>in</strong>g for a relax<strong>in</strong>g<br />

holiday <strong>in</strong> pleasant and laidback<br />

surround<strong>in</strong>gs. In the ma<strong>in</strong><br />

seaside town of Ayvalik, there are<br />

lots of restaurants serv<strong>in</strong>g excellent<br />

local food and, of course, many<br />

Turkish coffee houses.<br />

In addition, Camlik and Alibey<br />

Islands are famous for their seafood<br />

specialities. There are also<br />

various monasteries and churches<br />

from the Byzant<strong>in</strong>e period on the<br />

surround<strong>in</strong>g islands. <br />

THE GLORY AND<br />

THE GRANDEUR<br />

BY GARETH REES<br />

Today Edirne is the capital<br />

of the Edirne prov<strong>in</strong>ce<br />

<strong>in</strong> East Thrace,<br />

close to <strong>Turkey</strong>’s borders<br />

with two neighbour<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Eastern European countries,<br />

Greece and Bulgaria. But for<br />

90 years, until 1453, hav<strong>in</strong>g been<br />

conquered by Sultan Murad I <strong>in</strong><br />

1363 and renamed (it was previously<br />

known as Adrianople), it was<br />

the third capital of the grow<strong>in</strong>g Ottoman<br />

Empire, which would be a<br />

major world power until 1923.<br />

As a result of its illustrious history,<br />

the city has a rich heritage<br />

and many historical sites, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g<br />

a number of celebrated mosques.<br />

But its biggest attraction is the<br />

magnificent Selimiye Mosque, one<br />

of the most acclaimed examples of<br />

Islamic architecture.<br />

The mosque was commissioned<br />

by one of the Ottoman<br />

Empire’s greatest monarchs,<br />

Sultan Selim II, son of Suleiman<br />

the Magnificent. Legend has it<br />

that Selim saw the Prophet Mohammad<br />

(PBUH) <strong>in</strong> a dream and<br />

decided to build a mosque <strong>in</strong><br />

celebration. Mimar S<strong>in</strong>an, the Ottoman<br />

Empire’s most celebrated<br />

and <strong>in</strong>fluential architect constructed<br />

the spectacular build<strong>in</strong>g<br />

between 1569 and 1575.<br />

S<strong>in</strong>an (1490 to 1588), who<br />

made a name build<strong>in</strong>g military<br />

bridges and fortifications, became<br />

the chief architect of the Ottoman<br />

Empire dur<strong>in</strong>g the rule of Suleiman<br />

the Magnificent (1520 to 1566). His<br />

output was prodigious; he erected<br />

palaces, public baths, schools, hospitals<br />

and numerous other build<strong>in</strong>gs,<br />

<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g 79 mosques, among<br />

them masterworks such as Sehzade<br />

Mosque and Suleymaniye<br />

Mosque, both <strong>in</strong> Istanbul. But<br />

S<strong>in</strong>an himself considered Selimiye<br />

Mosque, constructed <strong>in</strong> the later<br />

period of his life, after the reign<br />

of Suleiman the Magnificent, his<br />

The magnificent<br />

Selimiye Mosque<br />

embellishes Edirne’s<br />

reputation as a city<br />

with rich heritage<br />

and history<br />

greatest work. It would be hard to<br />

argue with S<strong>in</strong>an’s appraisal. Unesco,<br />

which <strong>in</strong>cluded Selimiye<br />

Mosque on its World Heritage List<br />

<strong>in</strong> 2011, describes it as “the ultimate<br />

architectural expression by<br />

the architect S<strong>in</strong>an of the Ottoman<br />

kulliye”. The word kulliye refers<br />

to the complex of build<strong>in</strong>gs surround<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the mosque.<br />

Selimiye Mosque consists of a<br />

huge and handsome central dome,<br />

31.25 <strong>in</strong> diameter and ris<strong>in</strong>g to<br />

43.25m, sitt<strong>in</strong>g atop eight pillars<br />

connected by arches. The dome<br />

is surrounded by four slim m<strong>in</strong>arets,<br />

more than 70m high, which<br />

shoot gracefully towards the sky<br />

like giant needles. S<strong>in</strong>an’s <strong>in</strong>novative<br />

design ensured that the dome<br />

was the ma<strong>in</strong> focal po<strong>in</strong>t of the exterior<br />

and allowed for a vast, open<br />

45mx36m prayer space with none<br />

of the segmentation found <strong>in</strong>side<br />

many other mosques. The space<br />

The mosque was<br />

commissioned by<br />

one of the Ottoman<br />

Empire’s greatest<br />

monarchs, Sultan<br />

Selim II, son of<br />

Suleiman the<br />

Magnificent<br />

is filled with light, which streams<br />

through the small w<strong>in</strong>dows <strong>in</strong> the<br />

three sides of the <strong>in</strong>terior fac<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the mihrab (the niche <strong>in</strong>dicat<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the direction of the Kaaba <strong>in</strong> Makkah).<br />

The outer walls are of f<strong>in</strong>ely<br />

crafted ashlar masonry, while other<br />

notable design features <strong>in</strong>clude<br />

the marble carv<strong>in</strong>gs cover<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

mihrab and m<strong>in</strong>bar (pulpit) and the<br />

parts of the <strong>in</strong>terior decorated with<br />

beautiful Iznik tiles.<br />

Visitors to Selimiye Mosque will<br />

also be able to explore the complex’s<br />

large courtyard, two madrasas<br />

(religious schools), a children’s<br />

library and Arasta, a bazaar with<br />

120 shops. <br />

WHAT ELSE TO SEE<br />

Bayezid II Health Museum<br />

This 15th century hospital and<br />

medical school built <strong>in</strong> 1488 by<br />

Sultan Bayezid II and operational<br />

until the late 19th century is now a<br />

museum dedicated to the history<br />

of Islamic medic<strong>in</strong>e. Part of the<br />

Bayezid II Mosque complex, it is<br />

managed by Trakya University.<br />

Ali Pasha Bazaar<br />

Mimar S<strong>in</strong>an, the architect<br />

responsible for build<strong>in</strong>g Selimiye<br />

Mosque, constructed this historic<br />

bazaar <strong>in</strong> 1569.<br />

WHERE TO EAT<br />

Melek Anne<br />

Housed <strong>in</strong> a 120-year-old build<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

this charm<strong>in</strong>g little restaurant<br />

specialises <strong>in</strong> traditional<br />

homemade Turkish food.<br />

Kofteci Osman<br />

One of Edirne’s most popular<br />

restaurants, Kofteci Osman<br />

serves two of the city’s most<br />

beloved dishes -- meatballs and<br />

deep-fried calves’ liver.<br />

16 GLOBAL CONNECTION JUNE 2015

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