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<strong>Ramadan</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Turkey</strong><br />
Fasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g & unspoilt<br />
Alibey Island<br />
Seek<strong>in</strong>g a quieter place dur<strong>in</strong>g your<br />
<strong>Ramadan</strong> break? Hit up Edremit Bay<br />
on <strong>Turkey</strong>’s West Coast, an idyllic<br />
location with beautiful beaches,<br />
picturesque villages, cosy hotels and<br />
an impressive cultural heritage<br />
BY ARNO MAIERBRUGGER<br />
Grow<strong>in</strong>g ever popular<br />
among Middle Eastern<br />
tourists, <strong>Turkey</strong> offers<br />
someth<strong>in</strong>g for everyone,<br />
rang<strong>in</strong>g from<br />
beach holidays, yacht<strong>in</strong>g and div<strong>in</strong>g<br />
to city and shopp<strong>in</strong>g trips, jungle<br />
trekk<strong>in</strong>g, eco-lodg<strong>in</strong>g and even<br />
ski<strong>in</strong>g. Visitors are <strong>in</strong>deed spoilt for<br />
choice <strong>in</strong> <strong>Turkey</strong>.<br />
However, for the quieter sea-<br />
son of <strong>Ramadan</strong> we recommend a<br />
place slightly off the beaten track,<br />
or at least away from the crowds<br />
that usually flock to Aegean towns<br />
such as Bodrum and Marmara<br />
with busy seaside avenues. Edremit<br />
Bay, a lesser known tourism<br />
spot, but nonetheless equipped<br />
with first-class touristic <strong>in</strong>frastructure,<br />
is a good place to kick<br />
back dur<strong>in</strong>g the holy month.<br />
Edremit Bay is a quieter gem on<br />
the tip of the northern Aegean Sea<br />
on the west coast of <strong>Turkey</strong>, 90<br />
m<strong>in</strong>utes from Gallipoli, says Somer<br />
Sivrioglu, Turkish-Australian chef<br />
and well-known travel blogger.<br />
He sums up what makes the<br />
place worth a visit: It’s the picturesque<br />
villages, delicious local food,<br />
some of the best boutique hotels<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>Turkey</strong>, shops and the markets<br />
where one can f<strong>in</strong>d orig<strong>in</strong>al handicraft<br />
items and a large variety of<br />
local produce such as cheeses, olives,<br />
fresh vegetables, andwild<br />
weed from the mounta<strong>in</strong>s.<br />
THE OLIVE RIVIERA<br />
The area around the bay is one<br />
Edremit Bay is a good<br />
place to kick back dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the holy month<br />
of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s central olive oil produc<strong>in</strong>g<br />
regions. The Olive Oil Museum<br />
<strong>in</strong> the city of Adatepe up north offers<br />
fasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>sight.<br />
This is also the reason the bay<br />
is called the Olive Riviera, as its<br />
shores are almost entirely covered<br />
with olive trees. In addition, the area<br />
is filled with natural and historical<br />
assets, and there are many old<br />
houses boast<strong>in</strong>g traditional architecture.<br />
For example, Assos is<br />
a small and serene seaside town<br />
west of Edremit city, famous for<br />
its ancient Temple of Athena. On a<br />
clear day, the Greek island of Lesbos<br />
can be seen to the south.<br />
SIGHTS AND SOUNDS<br />
In the north of the bay lies a<br />
mounta<strong>in</strong>ous region that is great<br />
for trekk<strong>in</strong>g, which can be comb<strong>in</strong>ed<br />
with visits to historical sites<br />
such as the ancient Greek city of<br />
Antandros and the Bath of Aphrodite,<br />
a natural pool from Roman<br />
times. Excavations of the bath are<br />
still <strong>in</strong> progress. Another attraction,<br />
Kazdagi, or Mount Ida is a national<br />
park north of Edremit Bay<br />
that boasts thermal spr<strong>in</strong>gs and<br />
extremely diverse flora and fauna.<br />
“[Edremit Bay] is the prime holiday<br />
country for Turks liv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Istanbul<br />
and Izmir,” says Pat Yale,<br />
UK-born travel writer, who moved<br />
to <strong>Turkey</strong> <strong>in</strong> the 1990s.<br />
“It is, after all, backed by the<br />
foothills of the Kazdagi mounta<strong>in</strong>,<br />
where Yesilyurt and Adatepe<br />
are two of the prettiest villages<br />
<strong>in</strong> all of <strong>Turkey</strong>. Kucukkuyu and<br />
Tahtakuslar have <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g small<br />
museums. The old part of Alt<strong>in</strong>oluk<br />
is full of f<strong>in</strong>e old Ottoman houses.<br />
There are amaz<strong>in</strong>g Roman ru<strong>in</strong>s<br />
tucked away amid the olive trees,<br />
and the beach at Oren is spectacularly<br />
beautiful.”<br />
Add<strong>in</strong>g to the scenery, is the<br />
Ayvalik archipelago <strong>in</strong> the south, a<br />
group of 22 large and small islands<br />
and a popular summer dest<strong>in</strong>ation<br />
mostly for locals and <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>gly<br />
for foreign tourists look<strong>in</strong>g for a relax<strong>in</strong>g<br />
holiday <strong>in</strong> pleasant and laidback<br />
surround<strong>in</strong>gs. In the ma<strong>in</strong><br />
seaside town of Ayvalik, there are<br />
lots of restaurants serv<strong>in</strong>g excellent<br />
local food and, of course, many<br />
Turkish coffee houses.<br />
In addition, Camlik and Alibey<br />
Islands are famous for their seafood<br />
specialities. There are also<br />
various monasteries and churches<br />
from the Byzant<strong>in</strong>e period on the<br />
surround<strong>in</strong>g islands. <br />
THE GLORY AND<br />
THE GRANDEUR<br />
BY GARETH REES<br />
Today Edirne is the capital<br />
of the Edirne prov<strong>in</strong>ce<br />
<strong>in</strong> East Thrace,<br />
close to <strong>Turkey</strong>’s borders<br />
with two neighbour<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Eastern European countries,<br />
Greece and Bulgaria. But for<br />
90 years, until 1453, hav<strong>in</strong>g been<br />
conquered by Sultan Murad I <strong>in</strong><br />
1363 and renamed (it was previously<br />
known as Adrianople), it was<br />
the third capital of the grow<strong>in</strong>g Ottoman<br />
Empire, which would be a<br />
major world power until 1923.<br />
As a result of its illustrious history,<br />
the city has a rich heritage<br />
and many historical sites, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g<br />
a number of celebrated mosques.<br />
But its biggest attraction is the<br />
magnificent Selimiye Mosque, one<br />
of the most acclaimed examples of<br />
Islamic architecture.<br />
The mosque was commissioned<br />
by one of the Ottoman<br />
Empire’s greatest monarchs,<br />
Sultan Selim II, son of Suleiman<br />
the Magnificent. Legend has it<br />
that Selim saw the Prophet Mohammad<br />
(PBUH) <strong>in</strong> a dream and<br />
decided to build a mosque <strong>in</strong><br />
celebration. Mimar S<strong>in</strong>an, the Ottoman<br />
Empire’s most celebrated<br />
and <strong>in</strong>fluential architect constructed<br />
the spectacular build<strong>in</strong>g<br />
between 1569 and 1575.<br />
S<strong>in</strong>an (1490 to 1588), who<br />
made a name build<strong>in</strong>g military<br />
bridges and fortifications, became<br />
the chief architect of the Ottoman<br />
Empire dur<strong>in</strong>g the rule of Suleiman<br />
the Magnificent (1520 to 1566). His<br />
output was prodigious; he erected<br />
palaces, public baths, schools, hospitals<br />
and numerous other build<strong>in</strong>gs,<br />
<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g 79 mosques, among<br />
them masterworks such as Sehzade<br />
Mosque and Suleymaniye<br />
Mosque, both <strong>in</strong> Istanbul. But<br />
S<strong>in</strong>an himself considered Selimiye<br />
Mosque, constructed <strong>in</strong> the later<br />
period of his life, after the reign<br />
of Suleiman the Magnificent, his<br />
The magnificent<br />
Selimiye Mosque<br />
embellishes Edirne’s<br />
reputation as a city<br />
with rich heritage<br />
and history<br />
greatest work. It would be hard to<br />
argue with S<strong>in</strong>an’s appraisal. Unesco,<br />
which <strong>in</strong>cluded Selimiye<br />
Mosque on its World Heritage List<br />
<strong>in</strong> 2011, describes it as “the ultimate<br />
architectural expression by<br />
the architect S<strong>in</strong>an of the Ottoman<br />
kulliye”. The word kulliye refers<br />
to the complex of build<strong>in</strong>gs surround<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the mosque.<br />
Selimiye Mosque consists of a<br />
huge and handsome central dome,<br />
31.25 <strong>in</strong> diameter and ris<strong>in</strong>g to<br />
43.25m, sitt<strong>in</strong>g atop eight pillars<br />
connected by arches. The dome<br />
is surrounded by four slim m<strong>in</strong>arets,<br />
more than 70m high, which<br />
shoot gracefully towards the sky<br />
like giant needles. S<strong>in</strong>an’s <strong>in</strong>novative<br />
design ensured that the dome<br />
was the ma<strong>in</strong> focal po<strong>in</strong>t of the exterior<br />
and allowed for a vast, open<br />
45mx36m prayer space with none<br />
of the segmentation found <strong>in</strong>side<br />
many other mosques. The space<br />
The mosque was<br />
commissioned by<br />
one of the Ottoman<br />
Empire’s greatest<br />
monarchs, Sultan<br />
Selim II, son of<br />
Suleiman the<br />
Magnificent<br />
is filled with light, which streams<br />
through the small w<strong>in</strong>dows <strong>in</strong> the<br />
three sides of the <strong>in</strong>terior fac<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the mihrab (the niche <strong>in</strong>dicat<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the direction of the Kaaba <strong>in</strong> Makkah).<br />
The outer walls are of f<strong>in</strong>ely<br />
crafted ashlar masonry, while other<br />
notable design features <strong>in</strong>clude<br />
the marble carv<strong>in</strong>gs cover<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
mihrab and m<strong>in</strong>bar (pulpit) and the<br />
parts of the <strong>in</strong>terior decorated with<br />
beautiful Iznik tiles.<br />
Visitors to Selimiye Mosque will<br />
also be able to explore the complex’s<br />
large courtyard, two madrasas<br />
(religious schools), a children’s<br />
library and Arasta, a bazaar with<br />
120 shops. <br />
WHAT ELSE TO SEE<br />
Bayezid II Health Museum<br />
This 15th century hospital and<br />
medical school built <strong>in</strong> 1488 by<br />
Sultan Bayezid II and operational<br />
until the late 19th century is now a<br />
museum dedicated to the history<br />
of Islamic medic<strong>in</strong>e. Part of the<br />
Bayezid II Mosque complex, it is<br />
managed by Trakya University.<br />
Ali Pasha Bazaar<br />
Mimar S<strong>in</strong>an, the architect<br />
responsible for build<strong>in</strong>g Selimiye<br />
Mosque, constructed this historic<br />
bazaar <strong>in</strong> 1569.<br />
WHERE TO EAT<br />
Melek Anne<br />
Housed <strong>in</strong> a 120-year-old build<strong>in</strong>g,<br />
this charm<strong>in</strong>g little restaurant<br />
specialises <strong>in</strong> traditional<br />
homemade Turkish food.<br />
Kofteci Osman<br />
One of Edirne’s most popular<br />
restaurants, Kofteci Osman<br />
serves two of the city’s most<br />
beloved dishes -- meatballs and<br />
deep-fried calves’ liver.<br />
16 GLOBAL CONNECTION JUNE 2015