Ramadan in Turkey

Ramadan in Turkey
Through the eyes
of a master
Istanbul has hosted many greats, but none has left as much of a
mark as Mimar Sinan, architect of timeless masterpieces
The chief Ottoman
architect was
responsible for
executing 300 major
projects
Karagoz plays are
not based on
pre-determined
scripts
BY BURAK KURU
Istanbul is the largest city in
Turkey in terms of the size
of population and economy,
as well as one of its most
popular tourist destinations.
It is also a very crowded city, but
that shouldn’t scare you if you
have set out to discover it. Because
there are two ways of discovering
Istanbul - either you
do what every organised tourist
does i.e, plan your trip down to
the last detail and see it the way
millions have, or throw caution
to the wind and just follow the
crowds, slip in and out of places
and experience the city the way
the locals see it.
The smarter tourists do a bit of
both, and they also do another intelligent
thing – they hire a good
guide to show them around. We
were persuaded by ours to follow
historic architect Mimar Sinan’s
creative trail to discover the city.
The chief Ottoman architect and
civil engineer for sultans Suleiman
the Magnificent, Selim II and
Murad III was responsible for executing
300 major construction
projects across Turkey.
FIRST STOP: SULEYMANIYE
Our first stop is the Suleymaniye
Mosque, one of Sinan’s
most glorious structures.
It was built over
seven years during
the golden age
of the Ottoman
Empire and has
become an essential
part
of the Istanbul
peninsula.
The breathtaking
blend of
Islamic and Byzantine
architectural
elements will make
you pause in your tracks
and the experience will stay long
after you leave. In between sightseeing,
you could sip some Turkish
coffee at Lalezar right next to
the mosque.
Next, head to the Grand Bazaar,
one of the world’s oldest,
teeming with almost 4,000 shops
that store all manner of goods
ranging from jewellery and leath-
Mimar Sinan
er to carpets and Turkish sweets.
If you stick around, don’t forget to
bargain your way through buying
various knick-knack and souvenirs.
You can exit through the Nuruosmaniye
Gate, which leads to
Sultanahmet.
For first-time visitors, Sultanahmet’s
Hagia Sofia is a mustvisit.
But for those who’ve been
there, done that it is well worth
their time to stop by the Hurrem
Sultan Bath, another Mimar
Sinan creation. This 246-foot
long public bathhouse was constructed
in 1556 and is designed
in the style of classical Ottoman
baths with two symmetrical
separate sections for men and
women. The customary steam
bath, peeling and soap massage
will leave you feeling greatly refreshed.
Remember to make reservations
though.
Once you are done take a leisurely
stroll down to Eminonu
in what is essentially still old Istanbul.
You can cross the Unkapani
Bridgeto reach Karakoy,
where you will discover great
options for shopping and dining.
Some places include Namli
Gurme, which serves breakfast
at all hours, the Gulluoglu, for
desserts, or the Karakoy Restaurant,
where you can sample the
best of Turkish cuisine (karakoylokantasi.com).
You can also
visit the Istanbul Museum
of Modern Art,
which houses an
enviable collection
of contemporary
art, and
hosts various
smaller exhibitions
as well on
the lower floor.
There is also a
cinema and arts
library (istanbulmodern.org).
SUNSET IN USKUDAR
Istanbul is also known for its
glorious sunsets and one of the
best places to experience it is
Uskudar. You can get there on
a ferry from Kabatas a journey
that takes about 7 to 8 minutes.
The neighbourhood carries early
traces of the Ottoman era. It has
old bazaars, mosques, and food
that will titillate your taste buds.
Eminonu
Savour the locally produced ice
cream at the Kanaat Lokantasi
restaurant. And while you are
there dig into their versions of
semolina halwa, and candied
quince. Having indulged your
gastronomic fantasies it is a
good idea to stroll along the the
Uskudar coast. About 200 metres
away you will come across
Kiz Kulesi, or the Maiden’s Tower
as it is more popularly known.
While in Uskudar make it a
point to visit the Semsi Ahmet
Pasa Mosque, another of Mimar
Sinan’s architectural marvels.
Commissioned by the Grand Vizier
in Constantinople, it is one
of the smallest to be built. However,
its miniature dimensions
combined with a picturesque
waterfront makes it one of the
most attractive in the city. The
Dolmabahce Palace and Buyuk
Mecidiye Mosque in Ortakoy are
also places you can visit.
THE CURTAIN OF
IMAGINATION
The traditional shadow theatre, Karagoz,
brings all the colours and cultural
treasures of the Ottoman era to you
Shadow theatre or
Karagoz as it is
known in Turkey offers
more or less a
microcosm of the country’s
Ottoman roots by bringing
to life the multicultural,
multi-religious and multilingual
social structure of the
empire on stage. The shadow
play employs tasvirs (figures)
made from camel or ox
hides in the shape of people
or things attached to rods
in front of a light source to
cast a shadow on to a cotton
screen. It also uses
songs, music, poetry, myths,
tongue-twisters and riddles
to make the two-dimensional
representations more
lively and exciting. The creator
of this form is believed
to be Sheikh Kusteri, who
lived in the Ottoman capital
of Bursa, and he is paid homage
in every show.
ALL COLOURS OF THE
EMPIRE ON STAGE
The puppeteer of Karagoz
is known as hayali, meaning
imaginary. Almost every
type of person from the
various socioeconomic layers
of Ottoman society as
well as representatives of
nationalities (Arab, Greek,
Jew, Persian, Albanian etc.)
living under imperial umbrella
are included in the
play. These characters stand
out through their dressing
styles, accents, behaviours,
songs and dances of the
community they represent
and are thus understood by
the audience right away.
Karagoz plays are not
based on pre-determined
scripts thus improvisation
is an essential aspect of the
show. But there are some
certain themes and subjects
that are repeated. Stories
are adapted according to the
particular time period. However,
a few original Karagoz
plays have stood unchanged
over time.
KARAGOZ DURING
RAMADAN
A classical Karagoz show
consists of four parts - prologue,
quarrel, main plot and
epilogue. Music - which is
often performed live – is also
important. City theatres
in former Ottoman capitals
- Istanbul, Bursa and Edirne
- stage Karagoz shows on a
regular basis. You can buy
tickets online. The best time
for a Karagoz show is Ramadan.
During the holy month
in central districts of Istanbul
like Sultanahmet and Feshane,
they are staged until
quite late.
ABOUT KARAGOZ
A play begins with the
projection of an introductory
figure to set the scene and
suggest the themes of the
drama, before it vanishes to
the shrill sound of a whistle,
giving way to a main performance
that sometimes incorporates
singing, tambourine
music, poetry, mythical
tales, tongue-twisters and
riddles.
Cultural conflicts between
Karagoz, an illiterate
nomad and Hacivat, an educated
messenger form the
base of the plot. The usually
comic stories feature the
main characters, Karagoz
and Hacivat, and many others,
including a cabaret
chanteuse called Kantocu
and an illusionist-acrobat
named Hokkabaz.
Karagoz is filled with puns
and imitations of regional
accents and the puppets are
manipulated by one lead artist,
the hayali, who may have
one or more apprentice-assistants
learning the craft by
helping to create the tasvirs
and accompanying the action
with music.
Once played widely at
coffee houses, gardens and
public squares, especially
during the holy month of
Ramadan, as well as during
circumcision feasts, Karagoz
is found today mostly in performance
halls, schools and
malls in larger cities where
it still draws audiences. The
traditional theatre strengthens
a sense of cultural identity
while bringing people
closer together through entertainment.
6 > 7 GLOBAL CONNECTION JUNE 2015