Book 4

M o d e l
2'6
*W
GIVEN AWAY FREE WITH THE OCTOBER 1968 ISSUE OF MODEL CARS

WONDERLAND
DACEWAYS
Wonderlands wonder motors F.T. 16D.
and 26D.
WONDER MOTORS, using the basic Mabuchi F.T.16D and F.T.26D
cans, have been improved to suit the requirements of your own
Raceways, and incorporate the following special features:—
POWER RATINGS. MOTORS can be wound, as required, using
any of the 7 gauges of Rewinding W ire, Single or double wound,
with the number of turns to your own specification.
COMMUTATOR and ARMATURE. A new improved Commutator
with advanced timing. Armature dynamically balanced to the
closest tolerances available. Epoxied in full rigid suspension and
heat resistant.
MAGNETS. Super WONDER 44 Double strength magnets are used
in all WONDER motors.
TORQUE. WONDER motors can be wound to your requirements
providing high revs or high torque.
TYPES. Motors of the following types can be supplied:—
(a ) Bell end.
(b ) Shaft case-end.
(c ) Double end shaft (shaft protrudes from both ends).
PRICES. W onder high performance 'BLUE SPRINT FT16D 3 5 /-.
Wonder special 'LONE RANGER' FT26D for the enthusiast +60,000
r.p.m. - ballrace can 43/11d. W onder 'SUPER' FT16D and 26D as
above + No-blo commutator + Triple strength magnets.
Power supply must be stated when ordering the above motors.
Trade inquiries welcomed 6 5 /-
21-22 Eastern Esplanade
Southend-on-Sea
Essex
T e l: SOUTHEND 65882
DISTRIBUTORS
IMPORTERS
EXPORTERS and
MANUFACTURERS
OF ALL LEADING MODEL
SLOT and ROAD RACING
KITS and ACCESSORIES
2

Model Cars
SLOT
MOTORS
CONTENTS
1. What's available? 11
• 1 9 6 8 2. In greater detail 34
Prepared by
Model Cars
3. Magnets 43
Magazine
for the benefit
4. Basic Hop-up 47
of car modellers 5. Rewinding 50
6. Choice of gears 55
Appendix 1 58
2 59
3 59
4 60
Model & Allied Publications Ltd.
13/35 Bridge Street, Hemel Hempstead, Herts.
Publishers of
Aeromodeller, Model Boats, Model Cars, Model Engineer, Model Railway
Nows, Meccano Magazine, Radio Control Models & Electronics, Plans,
Technical Books, etc.

AVAILABLE FROM YOUR HOBBY AND MODEL SHOP !
Ask to see the CARRERA seriost * All American Eaglo F.1 * Chaparral 2.0
• McLaron Mark II * Porscho Carrera 6 * Lotus

The model racing development you've
been waiting for! Fast, reliable, easy to
maintain, holds the road perfectly. The
Body's fixed only to the back axle so
the POWER SLEDGE rides on the two
rear wheels and the forward guide flag.
Gives you perfect weight distribution
and a low, low centre of gravity. The
three point suspension also gives you
constant electrical contact — and a BIG
difference in acceleration! The sledge
is powered by a RACE-TUNED motor
which gives you extra speed. Build any
body on to the POVSER SLEDGE and
start your winning reputation the
Scalextric way for only £1,5.9d.
□ FANTASTIC ACCELERATION
□ TREMENDOUS SPEED
□ STUPENDOUS ROAD HOLDING
□ RACE-TUNED MOTOR
□ DIE-CAST METAL GEAR BOX
□ LOW CENTRE OF GRAVITY
□ THREE-POINT TRACK CONTACT
□ EASY MAINTENANCE
□ VARIABLE ANGLE PICK-UP
□ EXTENDABLE CHASSIS
5

M odel Cars Subscription is only
3 5 /- or $5 (U.S.A.)
fo r a w hole year's supply of magazines
sent direct to you,
post your re m itta n ce to :
M O D E L & A LLIE D P U B LIC A TIO N S LTD.
13-35 Bridge Street, Hemel Hem pstead, H erts
N O R D IC M O D E LS
26 HIGH STREET, SOUTHALL, MIDDX. Tel: 01-574 3173
The Motors w ith more successes to their names than any other
Motor: and during the coming season will record many, many
more — If you wish to be amongst the winners get yours now !!
NORDIC GOLDSTAR
Mark II_____
FOR FAST BATTERY
POWERED CIRCUITS
Prico 50/-
Plus P. and P. 9d.
NORDIC GOLDSTAR
Mark I
FOR TWISTY BATTERY
POWERED CIRCUITS
Prico 28/6
Plus P. and P. 9d.
NORDIC SILVERSTAR
FOR
AND
Plus
TRANSFORMER
POWERPACK
CIRCUITS
Prico 27/6
P. and P. 9d.
ALL MOTORS ARE THE FT16D SIZE WITH SHAFT OUT CASE END
Wo aro also stockists of: Scaloxtric. Slotwaro, MRD, SCD, MRRC. Airlix,
Dynamic, Dyna, Riggon. Taylormado, Riko, Titan, otc.
6

Airfix-MRRC
Motors & Racing Accessories
THE STANDARD 3-POLE MOTOR
Patt. No. 701. Completo with roar axlo
*U' bracket. Price: 14/9d. Motor can bo
supplied with any gear ratio from 21,3,
31 and 4—1.
OTHER MOTORS IN THE RANGE
1) T H E BALL BEARING M O TO R .
Patt. No. 720. With nylon chassis
framo for building 4-whcel drive cars.
Prico: 31/4d.
2) T H E SLIM LINE M O TO R .
Patt. No. 8020. Designed for tho
smallest 1/32nd scale Formula 1 cars.
Prico: 21/8d.
1 /24th SCALE MOTOR
Patt. No. 850. Big new ball bcarino
motor. More power, improved braking,
ideal for l/24th scale models.
Price: 34/5d.
ELECTRIC MOTOR ACCESSORIES
Patt. No.
Prico
721 Ball Raco Sots for 3/32'
Shaft( 2 in sot) 3/7
722 Ball Race Sets for i ' Shaft
(2 in sot) 3/7
700/A 3-Pole Armature 6/4
700/B Motor Brushes (4 in packet) 2/6
700/C 5-Pole Armature 11/11
700/D Back Plate and bearing 1/3
700/E Brush springs 8d.
700/F Front Bearing, Ball, Clip,
Folt Pad 1/10
813 ‘IT Bracket 1/3
8S0/B Motor Brushes (4 in packet)
for 1/24th Scale Motors 2/6
See th t fite il teidtlioni to the vatuum foerred tody
shell rjnoes.
VACUUM FORMED BODY SHELLS
1/24th scale body shells include:
Patt. No.
Price
880 Ford GT 9/11
881 Chaparral 9/11
882 Lola T70 9/11
883 Ferrari 330P 9/11
884 Ford Sports Prototypo 9/11
1/32nd scale vacuum formed car bodies
include:
Patt. No.
Prico
950 Ford Mirage 7/3
951 Iso Grifo Lusso GL365 7/3
952 Lamborghini P400 Muira 7/3
953 Ferrari 330P4 7/3
954 1967 Tornado 7/3
955 1967 Mustang Fastback 7/3
956 1967 GTO Pontiac 7/3
957 Ford Sports Prototype 7/3
958 Ford Mach II 7/3
AIRFIX M0T0RACE
HIGH REVVING MOTORS
Patt. No.
Price
111 Suitable for a ll‘Hi-Spced’
G.P. and Saloon Cars 12/11
222 This slightly more powerful
motor suitable for ‘Hi-
Spccd’ Porsche and
Ferrari G.T. Cars 12/11 □
These two now motors provide tremendous
acceleration combined with
excellent dynamic braking characteristics
c
and with their robust construction
have a very long life.
A ll th o a b o v e ite m * a re a v a ila b le fro m
H
y o u r lo c a l A IR F IX M R R C and M o to rA c o
S to c k is t. F or fu ll d o ta ils o f o u r c o m p le te
ra n g e see th o n o w M o to rA c o c a ta lo g u e
a n d p ric e lis t.
EDO
7

for FREE mail-order on
JONTEC, COX, RIGGEN, TAYLOR, RUSSKIT, PACTRA,
LANCER, MURA, CHAMPION, SIMCO, DYNAMIC,
DYNA-REWIND, SLOTWARE, MABUCHI, WELLER,
AIRFIX, REVELL, SCALEXTRIC, MONOGRAM, RIKO, etc.
and th e exclusives . . .
YASIURO WATANABE 1/32 & 1/24 SPACE-FRAME
BALL-RACED CHASSIS. 15 BALL FLANGED BEARINGS.
PACTRA BODIES and MOTORS.
(Sole Agents) - 75 foot 6-lane track.
Race Night every Monday, 7-10 p.m.
MODEL SHOP - R ICHM O N D - RACEWAY
Westminster House, Kew Road, Richmond, Surrey
Tel. 01-940 7489
APEX CRAFT
31 CHURCH GATE, LEICESTER LEI 3AB
Tolophono 59187
BRACKETS
BODY SHELLS
FT16D etc. Rear 2/6 Jaguar 3.8 6 /-
FT16 etc. Rear 3 / - Jaguar 4.2 6 /-
W ild One Front and Rear 7 / - Honda P1 5 / -
W ild One Rear 3 /- Merc 300SLR 5 / -
DP3P Front 2/6
196B Front 2/6 HUBS
FT16D etc. Front 2/6 Threaded £ and 3/32 dia. l l
6001 BB Front and Rear 6 / - * and i Wide. 3 /3 PAIR.
MAGNET SHIMS SHAPED 3 ASS PAIRS (VARIOUS GAUGES)
TO FIT 16D— 26D— 13UO, etc. 1/6 per 3 pairs.
AXLES i threaded, 1*, 1J, 2, 2* and 2* 1/6 per pair.
COMPLETE RANGE OF MODEL CAR ACCESSORIES
COX, MONOGRAM, RIKO, SRM, MRD, JNT, SCD, TAYLORS,
RIGGEN, SLOTWARE, etc.
8

INTERNATIONAL
BY RETURN
MAIL
ORDER
ALL MAIL
ORDERS IN U K.
OVER £1 VALUE
POST FREE
Main
Agents for
• DYNA
* MURA
* CHAMPION
• PHAZE III
FOR ALL MOTORS
and
ACCESSORIES
BUY FROM OUR HUGE STOCKS AT:—
HOUNSLOW RACEWAY (opposite Woolworths)
230 HIGH STREET, HOUNSLOW, W . LONDON.
Open every day 10.00-10.00.
OR
BANBURY RACEWAY, 1 mile out of Banbury on
A.422 Banbury - Brackley Road.
Open every evening except Sundays, 7 .00-10.30.
NEW
MURA UNMELTABLE END BELL 20/6.
SEND FOR OUR MOTOR LIST . . . FREE
P.M.R. RACEWAYS LTD.
OVERTHORPE HALL - BANBURY - OXON
Phone 0295-3733
9

ELTHAM MODELS
10
Sun.
a.m.-6 i
.m.
10 a m . - l i >.m.
Closed a ll d a y T
• 85ft. 6-lane Raceway (Battery Power)
• Race-nights :
Monday : Midgets.
W ednesday: Juniors 1/24.
F rid a y : Seniors 1/24,
• Monthly Open Meetings.
• Instant Mail O rd er Service.
Send 4d. stamp for Catalogue
54 WELL HALL ROAD, ELTHAM, LONDON, SE9
Telephone: 01-850 4324
DYNA-REWIND
OFFER YOU THE MOST COMPETITIVE RANGE OF
RACE-PROVED PRODUCTS CURRENTLY AVAILABLE.
WATCH OUT FOR NEW ITEMS AND CHECK PAGE 15
FOR DETAILS.
10

what's
available?
In this section we take an alphabetical
look at what is available in an
over-the-counter form for modellers.
While we have been as all-embracing
as we possibly could with a
'directory' of this nature, there will
no doubt be omissions - w e can
think of one fairly well-known U.S.
manufacturer, for instance, who
should be in these pages but won't,
due to failing to respond to our
requests for figures and details. But
thankfully, such cases have been
few.
Here then is our run-down on
electric slot motors. The manufacturers
were all extremely helpful
in letting us know just what is to be
had and now to help in the choice of
power plant for that new car we
pass on all the gen which we hope
will assist when buying a motor to
meet your own particular requirements.
While most expert racers will
have their own favourites and be
pretty well aware of the present state
of the market for motors there must be
many newcomers to the hobby who
never realised just how big the
choice of power units is. It is they
and the secretly not-so-expert who
w ill benefit from the following pages.
A i r f i x ’s t w o c a n s ; a t t h e left, t h e 13 U O s iz e m o t o r a n d t h e 16Da t t h e r ig h t . F o r f u r t h e r
d e t a ils a b o u t t h e se a n d a ll t h e o t h e r c u r r e n t ly a v a ila b le p o w e r u n it s , t u r n p a ge .
11

AIRFIX
A IR F IX LTD. (see also M .R.R.C.)
Address: Airfix Products Ltd., Haldane Place, Garratt Lane, London, S.W.18.
Type: 16 can (no heat sinks on brushes)
Dimensions:
Width
-tf"
Height
Length (not including shaft) 1 i"
Shaft dia. 5/64"
Usable shaft length
4" (end-bell end only)
Price: 12s. 11 d.
Type: 13UO can (no heat sinks on brushes)
Dimensions:
Width
W
Height
tV
Length (not including shaft) 1£"
Shaft dia. 5/64"
Usable shaft length 9/32" (end-bell end only)
Price: 12s. 11d.
CHIUS EHGMSMHG CO.
CERTUS ENGINEERING CO.
Address: Certus Engineering Co., Box 3036, Munster, Indiana 46321,
U.S.A.
Type: 16D can. The '612' and the '614'.
Dimensions:
Width 15/16"
Height
W
Length (not including shaft) 1
Shaft dia. 5/64"
Usable shaft length
4" (612, end-bell end)
4" each end of motor (614)
A t left, th e C e r t u s '6 I4 * a n d on © o f t h is c o m p a n y 's r e p la c e m e n t a r m a t u r e s in t h e f o r e ­
g r o u n d . A t left, th e 2 6 D s iz e d , e x t e r n a l b r u s h g e a r '622*.
12

Price: '612' $9.85; '614' $10.50 U.S.
Features:
The '612' is a rewind available in 26, 27 and 28 U.S. gauge. Has heavyduty
springs, high-power mags and heat sinks. Like the '614' it is dynamically
balanced and has epoxied windings. The '614, has a ball race each end
and is available in 26, 27 or 28 gauges. Other 16Ds from Certus are: stock
16D (ball bearing in can end) $3.29, '610' standard or dynamically balanced
$4.95 and $6.75 respectively. Armatures are also available, epoxied and
balanced in 26, 27 or 28 winds, $4.95.
Type: 26D can. The '622'.
Dimensions:
Width
Height (including brushgear)
Length (not including shaft)
Shaft dia.
Price: $8.95.
Features:
1"
W
1 A "
5/64" (end-bell end only)
Dynamically balanced arm. Super strength mags. Advanced timing.
Reinforced and trued commutator (as '612', '614'). Aircooled end-bell
(Pittman type brushgear). Makers claim ideally a Stocker or heavy sports
car motor. Available also regular end-bell. Armatures in 26, 27 or 28 gauge
available at $4.95. Our sample included hook-up wire and 8-tooth brass
p in io n -1 6 D size did not. Certus motors come in a handy snap-lock
plastic hinged box on a specification card.
C H A M P IO N
1
C H A M P IO N OF CHAM BLEE
Address: Champion of Chamblee, 5620 New Peachtree Road, Chamblee,
Georgia 30005, U.S.A.
Type: 16D sized can. Types 517-26, 517-26B, 517-27, 517-28, 5001.
Dimensions:
Width
Height
Length (not including shaft)
Shaft dia.
Usable shaft length
w
w
1 4 '
5/64"
3" end-bell end only (on 5001, jj" each
end of can)
Price: '517-26' $10.95, '517-268' $13.95, '517-27(28)' $10.95 U.S.
Features:
The 517 series are dynamically balanced rewinds, the suffix figures
denoting U.S. wire gauge. All carry Arco magnets. 517-26B has all-black
caso, shunted brushes. 517 available in kit form with Super Arco 33 mags,
$6.98. Armature kits available. Other 16 size Champions are Mabuchi
type 'Thumper', $3.50, standard or epoxied and balanced, $5.00, 507-RPB
(Arcos), $8.95, 507-BB (shaft can end)ball bearings, $8.95, Champion have
an 'Arco Kit' for the Strombecker Hemi which gives you all the Hemi parts,
Arcos, rewind wire and commutator, $4.98, one hole 5001 with double-
13

A s e le c t io n o f C h a m p io n o f C h a m b lc c * s m o t o r s in t h e ir d is t in c t iv e p a c k a g in g .
end shaft. $3.50.
Type: 26D sized can. Types 617, 607.
Dimensions:
Width 1"
Height
W
Length (not including shaft) 1
Shaft dia. 5/64"
Usable shaft length 3"
8
Price: $10.95 U.S. '61T . $8.95 SOT.
Features:
Shunted low-resistance brushes, wound U.S. 26 gauge. Kits for 617 and
607 available, $5.98, $4.98 repspectively. Armature kits available. Champion
607 is a rewound and dyn' bal' 26D with Arco 33 mags and Mabuchi ball
bearings. 617 is rewound, dynamically balanced, epoxied, trued, etc.
Champion also have a variety of read-for-use dynamically balanced and
epoxied rewind armatures in 26 or 27 U.S. gauge. Champion motors como
mounted on a display card, held on with a strong plastic film - care should
be exercised when removing them for use.
L. M . COX M A N U FACTU R IN G CO. INC.
Address: L. M. Cox Manufacturing Co. Inc., P.O. Box 476, Santa Ara,
California, 92702, U.S.A.
British distributor: A. A. Hales Ltd.. P.O. Box 33, Harrowbrook Road,
Hinckley, Leics.
Type: 16D type can. The Cox Nascar 3600.
14

Dimensions:
Width
-Si"
Height f t "
Length (not including shaft) 1 i"
Shaft dia. 5/64"
Usable shaft length i "
Price: 28s. 2d.
Features:
This, the 16D size in the Cox Nascar series of can motors. The makers
claim 50,000 r.p.m. and their Super Nascar with three times stronger
magnets, balanced and epoxied armature and heat sink brushes goes at the
same r.p.m. but with more torque. This Super 16D Nascar is known as
Nascar 3605. It sells for 87s. 6d.
Type: 360 size can. Cox Nascar 3500.
Dimensions:
Width
11*
1 w
Height
7 "
3
Length (not including shaft) 15"
1O
Shaft dia. A "
Usable shaft length
1"
2
Price: 35s. 5d.
Features:
The larger can size with a claimed top r.p.m. of 32,000. There is a Super
Nascar version of this one which could be available at the time of reading.
Super Nascar 3506. Cox also have a 13 u.o. sized can.
DYNA-REWIND
DYNA REW IND
Address: B.I.C.0.2 Lancaster Road, London W.11.
Type : 16D can Silver Sprint and Super Sprint, Hi-Rev Sprint.
Dimensions:
Width f t "
Height f t "
Length (not including shaft) 1£"
Shaft dia. 5/64"
Usable shaft length
%" both ends of can.
Price: Silver Sprint 37s. 6d., Super Sprint 110s„ Hi Rev Sprint 11 5s.
Features:
The cheapest Silver Sprint has Dyna Junior mags, ball race in can and a low
hysteresis armature stack; otherwise it is a stock 16D. Super Sprint and
Hi-Rev are rewinds with Dyna 9 triple strength mags, high performance
bush gear, heat sinks, balancing (dynamic) and epoxied armatures.
70,000 r.p.m. in a chassis are claimed for Hi-Rev; running free, one once
clocked 128,000 r.p.m. Super Sprint and Hi-Rev are available for a variety
of tracks and power supplies. New 16D Dyna mags are Dyna 5's.
15

B A L L BE A P I N G $ 0.95
D Y N A 16D
H I-R EV SPRIN T
SPffO WOUND fOK
DYNA-REWIND $8.95
D Y N A 2.6D
SUPER S P R IN T
Type : 26D can Super Dyna 1.3 Enduro, Super Sprint 26D Dyna 99.
Dimensions:
Width 1 *
Height
$ F
Length (not including shaft) 1 ■&"
Shaft dia. 5/64"
Usable shaft length
(end bell end only)
Price: Dyna 99 79s. 11d., Super Dyna 1.3 Enduro 115s., Super Sprint 26D
115s.
Features:
Dyna 99 is an ideal club motor. It is a high performance rewind with dynamic
balancing, epoxied armature, high strength mags, improved brush
gear. Dyna 1.3 Enduro is a long distance power unit available for a variety of
tracks and power supplies. Super Sprint 26D should be used on high amp
circuits only - it has all Dyna Rewind high performance features.
N. & K. C. KEYSER LTD. (K 's)
Address: 101 Tubbs Road, Willesdcn, London N.W.10.
Type: Non-can external brush gear, end magnets with side frames.
K's Mk. 1, K's Mk. II, Super '1' S.T.V. (Super tuned version).
Dimensions:
Width
including brush holders Mk. I, Mk. II
Height (S.T.V. i " with brush gear) S.T.V.
Length (not including Mk. 1 13/32", Mk. I11 i" . S.T.V. 1
shaft)
Shaft dia.
Usable shaft length
Mk. I, Mk. II
17/32" both ends
S.T.V.
i " both ends
Price: Mk. 1 25s. 8d„ Mk. II 22s., Super '1' S.T.V. 25s. 8d.
Features:
Popular long before the 'can' type motors, this range of 'con-
16

T h e t h r e e K 's m o t o r s ; ro u n d -t h e » c lo c k 5
t h e y g o ; K ’s M k . II, K ’s M k . I a n d t h e la r g e r
S u p e r S .T .V .
ventional' miniature electric motors comprise a magnet block at each end of
the shaft (with plain bearings) and two side frames, the whole held together
with epoxy. All ideally suited to 1/32nd scale F.l. models duo to their slimness
and the Super Tuned Version of the Mk. I is guaranteed 38,000 r.p.m. at
12v. D.C., will exceed 40,000 when fully run in. Smallest of the three is the
Mk. II but nevertheless, like its larger brothers, this is a sweet and efficient
little power unit.
M .A .M .A . EASTERN LTD.
Address: 11 Waterloo Place, London S.W.1. and at Tokyo.
Type - can type. The Pronto Whiplash.
Dimensions:
Width # "
Height
Length (not including shaft) 1J"
Shaft dia. A "
Usable shaft length
■&” (can end only)
Price: 19s. 11 d.
Features:
Up to 35,000 r.p.m. together with good flexibility and braking make this
inexpensive and unusually shaped power unit a serious possibility for club
use. Brown end bell of unusual design accepts a pair of self tappers but
shaft protrudes at can end. No provision for 'C' clipping bracket to the end
bearing is made. Armature is cemented and brush gear features coil springs
for brush pressure Comes with 8-tooth pinion in situ in a neat box.
T w o v ie w * o f a P r o n t o W h ip l a s h - n o t e u n u s u a l c n d b c ll a n d b r u s h g e a r .
17

M .R .C .C .
(TAYLORTUN ED)
Address: Model Racing Car Centro,
390-392 Brockley Road, London,
S.E.4.
Type: 16D can. Taylortuned Mk. II.
Dimensions:
Width A "
Height
W
Length (not including 1J"
shaft)
Shaft dia. 5/64" A c r a c k le b la c k fin is h e d T a y lo r t u n e d .
Usable shaft length A '
Price: 49s. 11 d.
Features:
Rewound 160, statically balanced with extra strength magnets and
brush springs. It is necessary to state which end of the motor a customer
requires the shaft to take gears. Crackle black finish to case.
Type: 260 can. Taylortuned Mk.
Dimensions:
Width
Height
Length (not including shaft)
Shaft dia.
Usable shaft length
Price: 49s. 11 d.
Features:
11 (26D).
1"
W
1 tV ’
5/64"
9/32" (case end only)
Like the 16D, the 26D Mk. 11 may be had in either battery or powerpack
winds. Same specifications as 160. They do a double wind and Taylortuned
power units have more powerful magnets, drilled end bell for cooling, and a
no-blow comm, it is claimed. The 26D retains standard magnets, however,
but these are shimmed.
me
M.R.R.C. (see also Airfix Ltd.)
Address: M.R.R.C. Ltd., 29 Ashley Road, Boscombe, Bournemouth, Hants.
Type: Single magnet, exposed brushgear side frames, axle bracket.
M.R.R.C. 3-pole, 5-pole.
Dimensions:
W
r
2 13/32"
9/32"
Width (overall incl. bracket)
Height
Length (incl. axle bracket)
Shaft dia.
Usable shaft length
Price: 3-pole 14s. 9d„ 5-pole 21s. 3d.
4" at bracket end only
18

L i n e - u p o f M . R . R . C .
m o t o r s . T w o o n th e lefe
a rc , a t to p , th e M .R .R .C .
S -p o lo - a n o ld f a v o u r it e
a n d a n e a r ly s u b je c t f o r r e ­
w in d in g , b u t n o w o u t
c la sse d b y ca n s. N o t e fe lt
o il p a d a t d r i v e e n d o f
sh a ft, a n d th e o n e u p a t th e
m a g n e t end.
B e lo w t h e S *p o lc c o m e s
t h o b a ll-ra c e d l/ 2 4 t h scale
m o t o r w it h u n u s u a l o u t ­
w a r d a p p e a r a n c e . N o t e
h o w b r u s h g e a r is c a r r ie d
o n a p la t e o v e r t h e m o t o r
f r a m e a n d n o t e t o o th e
s h a ft r e t a in in g c o lla r s a t
e a c h e n d o f t h e sh a ft. B a ll
ra c e s a r e c a r r ie d a t b o t h
e n d s.
A t r ig h t , th e S p lit 3-
p o le w it h b la c k n y lo n
a x le c a r r ie r s .
Features:
Big feature of the above range of motors is the fact that they come complete
with a rear axle bracket. They have external brush gear rather like the
K's Super S.T.V. and a single block magnet at the back. By virtue of the
integral axle bracket (and the bolt lugs at the other end of the motor) it is
possible to put a car together very quickly indeed using other M.R.R.C. parts.
Again, these motors were standard equipment in most clubs before the
arrival of the can types. They are still useful club power units. Available with
gears and axle to a choice of ratios. 20s. 3d. for nylon gears on 3-pole,
24s. 7d. for brass bevels. 28s. for nylon gears on 5-pole, 34s. 1d. for brass
bevels.
Type: Twin magnet, side frames (pole pieces), ball races, exposed brushgear,
M.R.R.C. 1/24th scale motor.
Dimensions:
Width
r
Height 4“
Length (not including shaft) 24”
Shaft dia.
at non-drive end)
Usable shaft longth
Price: 34s. 5d.
Features:
This is the fastest M.R.R.C. motor with a claimed 25,000 r.p.m. at 1.25
amps compared to the 22,000 r.p.m. of the 3-pole, 19,000 r.p.m. of the
5-pole and 19,500 r.p.m. of the split 3-pole which we'll look at in a moment.
No load r.p.m. is somewhat higher on each, of course. It weighs 3 35 oz.;
the other motors are around the 1-5oz. mark. The 1/24th scale motor
19

comes complete with a pinion on its A ” shaft and a removable collar on
it's J" shaft. The shaft is carried through the twin magnets in ball races.
Type: Pole pieces, single magnet, exposed brushgear, M.R.R.C. Split 3-pole.
Dimensions:
Width
r
Height
i '
Length (overall incl. axle
carriers) 42"
Length of motor 12"
Shaft dia. A "
Usable shaft length
2" at comm. end. 2" at other end.
Price: 31s. 4d.
Features:
This long, slim motor carries black nylon axle carriers at each end to give
a variety of individual wheelbases. It has a single magnet and ball races. The
nylon axle carriers can be trimmed down to suit specific requirements and
have holes for bearings already in position.
M f t lW H * ^P\+d*4cCi
M U R A PRODUCTS/LEIMZ
Address: Mura Products, 1630-162 Ave., San Leandro, California 94158,
U.S.A.
LENS 1624-162 Ave., San Leandro, California 94578, U.S.A.
Type: 16D size cans. Magnum 1000 Magnum 88-X, Team Cukras Uncoughable,
Lonz 'Boss 600', Mura 'D ' Production Stock Motor.
Dimensions:
Width
Height
Length (not including shaft)
Shaft dia.
Usable shaft length
■ \r
21/32'
i a
5/64"
9/32" at end-bell end only
Price: Magnum 1000 $14.95, Magnum 88-X $10.95, Team Cukras Uncoughable
$19.95. Lenz 'Boss 600 $12.95, Mura 'D ' Production Stock
$6.94 U.S. Slotware Ltd. hove the 1000 at £9 0s. Od.
A t left, a re a l p ie c e o f s o u g h t - a f t e r e q u ip m e n t - t h e f a b u lo u s ly e x p e n s iv e M u r a 1000.
A t r ig h t , t h e S h o r t M a g n u m a n d a S t o c k ‘O ’.
20

A b o v e , a t left, a J o h n C u k r a s c e r tifie d M u r a 1000 ( in a ll it s a p p r o x . £15 g l o r y ! ) t o g e t h e r
w it h a C u k r a s r e p la c e m e n t a r r r u t u r o in t h e f o r e g r o u n d . A t r ig h t , t h e v e r y s im i l a r L e n z
*600’ B o s s m o t o r w it h it s r e p la c e m e n t a r m a t u r e .
Features:
All the above motors are high-performance rewinds. The magnum series
have semi-matt black cans while the Production D is silver-cased and the
Lenz motor is dark metallic blue. The Magnum series and the Lenz 600 have
Mura's 'can in a can' Magnum magnets shim, a choice of wire sizes, highperformance
heat sink (or sunk!) brushes, dynamic balancing and epoxying.
You can get 25 single, 27 single and 28-29 double winds on the 1,000;
28 single, 30 double or 31 double on the 88-X; 26 and 25 single (high amp),
26 and 25 single (low amp) or 28 double on the Cukras (plus that gentleman's,
no doubt, much-sought-after autograph!) and a similar variety on
the Lenz. There are also ready-to-run armatures in a variety of sizes, all
balanced and epoxied. There's even a Cukras autographed one (uncoughable)
in the same high or low amp winds.
STOP PRESS
Type: Shortened 16 sized can. Mura Short Magnum.
Dimensions:
Width
-tf"
Height 21/32"
Length (not including shaft) 1 11/32"
Shaft dia. 5/64"
Usable shaft length 9/32" end bell end, •&" case end
Price: Unknown at time of press
Features:
Bright yellow case. Magnum magnets. Our sample was balanced, epoxied
and features high performance brush gear with heat sinks. We were told
by Mura that this motor is just about to go into production. We may have
been sent a form of prototype, since our example featured 'safety soldered'
brush heat sinks, an advantage which only the Cukras Muras enjoy in their
'over the counter" form. On the other hand. Ron Mura could have breathed on
this one just for us! These Cukras motors feature no-melt end bells, as do all
Muras, except stock 'D \ Mura 30 thou can with the 15 thou liner semi can
(1000 series), armor plated magnet wire, annealed lamination material, no
melt solder, blue printed line bored, brush tubes indexed (and, as we said,
soldered), and are finally certified by John Cukras himself.
21

NO RDIC MODELS
Address: Nordic Models, 26 High
Street, Southall, Middlesex.
Type: 16D can. Goldstar Mk. I,
Goldstar Mk. II, Silverstar.
Dimensions:
Width
t t M
Height
&
Length (not including shaft 1 « '
Shaft dia.
5 /6 4 '
Usable shaft length A "
(at can end only)
Price: Silverstar £1 7s. 6d., Goldstar Mk.l £1 8s. 6d., Goldstar M k.ll £2 10s.
Features:
These inexpensive rewinds have excellent static balancing, and epoxied
armatures. The Silverstar is recommended for low powered and transformer
circuits, the Goldstar I for battery powered tracks and the Golstar II is also
for 'amp rich' circuits. While the Mk.l is most usually used in 1/32nd scale
cars, the Mk.ll has found popularity with racers in both 1/32nd and 1/24th
scale. Silverstar has a silver case (logically enough) and the Goldstars have
gold ones.
p a c t r a
A t loft, a P a c t r a H c m i - t h is s a m p le
c a m e t o u s f r o m th e R ic h m o n d M o d e l
S h o p a n d is a n c x a m p lo o f t h e ir v e r y
r e a s o n a b ly - p r ic e d 29s. l i d . v e r s io n .
E n d b e ll is o r a n g e a n d t h is p a r t ic u la r
m o t o r d o c s n o t c a r r y b r u s h a d j u s t ­
m e n t f a c ilit ie s lik e s o m e o t h e r H e m is.
PACTRA C H E M IC A L CO. INC.
Address: Sunset Centre Building, Los Angeles, California 90028, U.S.A.
Type: 16D size Hemi. The Pactra Hemi X-88 (Super)'
Dimensions:
Width
-tf"
Height
21/32'
Length (not including shaft) 1J"
Shaft dia.
5 /6 4 '
Usable shaft length 9 /3 2 ' (can end only)
Price: 29s. 11 d. (Richmond Model Raceways)
Features:
An inexpensive 'hot' motor which comes balanced (we wouldn't have
thought dynamically at this price) and epoxied (although our sample
showed no trace of epoxy). Silver brushes are carried in an unusual manner
22

in a bright orange endbell of unorthodox shape and the motor is tinned
to run clockwise when viewed at the case end. Self-tapper screw holes are
provided on the endbell but no real provision is made for bracket mounting
at the end which matters. Other Hemis by Strombecker are the 300 - A.T.
and the 400 A.T. (adjustable timing) and these are rather more costly.
F o u r P it t m a n s ( o r s h o u ld it b e P it t m c n ? ) . O n t o p n o w is th e f a m o u s a n d s t ill v e r y
p o p u la r D C I9 6 B , a t r ig h t is t h e 77. B o t t o m r o w s h o w s , o n th e left, t h e im m e n s e 706
w it h its a x le d r iv e s h a ft is a ll r e a d y t o s c r e w w h e e ls on , a n d , a t r ig h t , th e P it t m a n 'C a n *,
th e 6 0 0 1 B B .
W f O it t m a n
British distributors: Pritchard Patent Product Co L td , Pecoway, Seaton,
Devon.
Type: Single magnet, double pole pieces, external brushgear.
Pittman DC 77, (DC 66-6)
Pittman DC 196 B ------------------
Dimensions:
Width DC77
$f". DC 196 B -ft"
Height DC77 f t " DC 196 B f t "
Length (not including shaft) 1 f t "
Shaft dia.
0.092' (■&")
Price: DC 77 £2 19s. 3d., DC 196B £2 19s. 3d.
Features:
The DC 196B has its own axle bracket as an integral part of the motor.
It carries Oilites, is a 3-pole motor with a 6 volt wound armature. The bracket
(with Oilite bearings) will accept J in. axles and a maximum crown gear
23

diametor of in The DC77 has no bracket attachment, is a 6v 5-pole, and
like the 196B has a single ended shaft.
Type: can type, external brushgear Pittman 6001,6001BB.
Dimensions:
Width 1"
Height
Length (not including shaft) 1 ■fa"
Shaftdia.
0.092" (■&'')
Price: DC 6001, £2 19s 3d , DC 6001 BB £5 15s. 6d.
Features:
This motor is Pittman's only 'can' type The 6001 BB carries ball bearings
and, like the 6001 is a 3-pole power unit. Both motors are identical except
for bearings - the 6001 has sintered brass. Both have external brush gear
of the usual Pittman type and have single-ended shafts - drive is from the
opposite end to brushgear. They now have a hot "X " armature.
Type: external brushgear, gearbox and axle. Pittman DC 706.
Dimensions:
Width
+ T
Height 1 * "
Length overall 2J"
Shaft dia. *"
Shaft length 2 38/64"
Price: £4 6s. 9d. ------------------
Features:
This Pittman carries a gearbox giving a 3.4:1 ratio on the integr I rear axle.
It is a 5-pole and weighs 1 i oz. By virtue of its large size, it is omy suited to
1/24th scale cars.
J^evell
REVELL (G .B.) LTD.
Address: Revell (Gt. Britain) Limited, Cranborne Road, Potters Bar, Herts.
Type: 16D Can.The Revell Fireball.
Dimensions:
Width
-H"
Height j i "
Length (not including shaft) 1 i "
Shaft dia.
Usable shaft length
(can end only)
Price: 17s 6d.
Features:
The Fireball is Revell's stock 16D, found in the newer 1/32nd scale
Revell kits Revell (G.B.) Ltd , tell us that this motor is no longer available
but there must be some left in the shops.
Type: 36D can Revell S.P. 600.
Dimensions:
Width 1 i "
24

Height i "
Length (not including shaft) 1 A "
Shaft dia A "
Usable shaft length A "
Price: 18s.
Features:
Mabuchi's biggest motor. Not popular due to its weight but represents an
almost untouched field for rewinders.
R I K O
Address: Richard Kohnstam Limited, 13/15 High Street, Hemel Hempstead,
Herts.
Typo: 16 size can.
Dimensions:
Width
Height
Length
(not including shaft)
Shaft Dia.
Usable shaft length
Price Rikochet 1 13s. 6d.
Rikoflash I 26s.
Rikowhip 31s.
Features:
RikochetMks l II
Rikoflash Mks I, II
Rikowhip
+ T (w h ip ) 31/64" (flash)
W (whip) (flash)
1 i " (whip) 1 tV (flash)
•j-J" (Rikochet)
& "(R ikochet)
1 (Rikochet)
A " ( A " Rikochet Mk II)
A " (whip case end only)
(flash case end only)
(Rikochet end bell end only)
Rikochet I115s 6d
Rikoflash I I 31 s
The Riko range of motors is varied in design. The Rikochets are the most
recognisable as being of the general '16' siz e -th e Rikowhip is a standard
now FT 16D by Mabuchi. The Rikochets have long been noted fortheir strong
standard magnets and in their case, the Mk II suffix denotes brushgear
changes. Oddly, the Mk. I is generally reckoned to be superior to the
later Mk. II. The Rikoflash is a smaller version of the immense Rikostreak
and carries an unusual brush set up with large springs but quite efficient
heat sinks. It has provision for 'C' clipping a bracket to the can end for
L e f t t o r ig h t , t h e R ik o c h e t M k . I, t h e n e w R ik o m in x a n d t h o R ik o b o m b . A t t h e e n d is t h e
I 6 D R ik o w h ip .
25

ear axles. All Riko can types come mounted on green cards complete with
specifications and pre-mounted pinions. 51,000 r.p.m. (on load) is claimed
for the Mk II Flash, 28,500 r.p.m. for the Rikochet Mk. II.
Type: cylindrical can. The Rikominx.
Dimensions:
Width
2" (cylinder)
Height
i " (cylinder
Length (not including shaft) 1 A ”
Shaft dia. A ”
Usable shaft length
i " (both ends)
Price: Rikominx 19s. 11d.
Features:
Riko's new 1/32nd scale motor specially suited by virtue of diminutive
dimensions to F1 models. Completely cylindrical, the Rikominx has a double
ended shaft, an epoxied armature, cylindrical brushes with spring posts of an
unusual design, - they are self tap screws. The Rikominx case has two tiny
air holes diametrically opposed. The armature is timed.
Type - 26D can. The Riko Wild Cat.
Dimensions:
Width
1 '
Height H "
Length (not including shaft) 1 A "
Shaft dia. A”
Usable shaft length
A "
Price 29s. 11 d.
Features: Riko's standard 26D.
Type - 36 size can. Rikostreak Mks. I, II.
Dimensions:
Width
i r
Height
F
Length (not including shaft) 1 r
Shaft dia. A "
Usable shaft length
A ” (case end only).
Price: Rikostreak Mk. I 26s.; Rikostreak Mk. II 28s. 6d.
Features:
This is the largest Riko power unit - Mabuchi's FT 36D gives an indication
of the size. 32,000 r.p.m. is claimed free running for the Mk. I, 47,000 for the
Mk. II. Mk. II has twin air holes in case each side-Mk. II has single rectangular
one each side.
Type-S ingle magnet, twin pole pieces, axle bracket attached. The
Rikobomb, Rikobomb Super Ball Bearing Motor.
Dimensions:
Width
y j" (inclusive of brush gear)
Height
r
Length
2 \H (including brackets)
Shaft dia. A “
26

Usable shaft length
■&" (at bracket end only)
Price: Rikobomb 19s. 11 d. Rikobomb Super 24s.
Features:
The pole pieces of these motors is extended to form an axle carrier and
phos/bronze bearings are supplied with the Rikobomb. The Rikobomb
Super has two ball races - one at each end of the shaft. Both motors feature
epoxied windings but no balancing.
Replacement armatures are available from Riko, balanced and epoxied
at 22s. 6d. for the Rikoflash II, a Rikoflash Mk. I arm for 19s. 11 d. and a
general purpose armature for the Rikobomb types at 6s.
Address: American Russkit Company, 10633 Chandler Blvd., North Hollywood,
California 91603, U.S.A.
British distributor: Pegley Davies Ltd., Hersham Trading Estate, Walton on
Thames, Surrey.
Type - 16 can. The Russkit '23'
Dimensions:
Width
Hoight
Length (not including shaft)
Shaft dia.
Usable shaft length
Price £1 17s. 6d.
Features:
r Y
i r
(end bell end only).
Comes with brush heat sinks and 8-tooth pinion. Other 16 size Russkit
cans are the '27' and '28' motors with 3v. wound armatures and superior
performance. They are £2 11s. 4d. and £3 Os. Od. respectively. Then comes
the unusually sized Russkit '34' with adjustable brush timing at £2 Os. Od.
This one comes complete with a 0-tooth pinion. Final motor in the Russkit
line up is the 'A1' ,a 'Jap copy' of the Pittman D.C. 84. The 'A1' has a double
ended shaft with external brushgear and is suitable for dragsters and sidewinders
- but hardly modern day 'wonk-winders'. It sells for £3 Os. Od.
SCMEXTRICW
SCALEXTRIC (M IN IM O D E L S ) LTD.
Address: Fulflood Road, Havant, Hants.
Type : Single magnet, twin pole pieces, external brush gear. The Tri-ang
Mk. 4.
Dimensions:
Width 4"
Height
r
Overall length
2 r
Shaft dia. 0.094 Shaft protrudes at commutator
end only.
27

A s e le c t io n o f R u s s k it
m ills - d e s c r ib e d o n th e
p r e v io u s p age . R o u n d
t h e d o c k t h e y go , th e A 1.
R u s s k it 23 a n d , a t t o p o f
page, t h e b ig R u s s k it 34.
Price: See your local dealer.
Features:
This old favourite goes back to the first days of slot. It has been popular
right through the history of slot racing as a basis for early rewind attempts
and scratchbuilding. It is similar in design (same size) to the M.R.R.C.
3-pole and has a pair of bolt lugs at the back carrying a cross bar. The
motor appeared in Scalextric ready-to-run models but is now superseded
by the 'Power Sledge' with Scalextric's Race Tuned motor. The
'Power Sledge' is an Iso-fulcrum arrangement for the new Scalextric
1/32nd scale F1 cars and the motor which carries its own bracket comes
with a nylon guide arm and guide shoe at the front and a rear axle and gears
at the back.
Type : 26D car. Scalextric Supor 124.
Dimensions:
Width
Height
Length (not including shaft)
Shaft dia.
Usable shaft length
Price: See your local dealer.
Features:
1"
W
1 -ft"
5/64''
&" (endbell end only, bevelled pinion
supplied).
28

T h e S c a le x t r ic t h r e e s o m e . D i ­
r e c t ly a b o v e , th e 26 D w it h b e v ­
e lle d p in io n in s itu , a t t o p r ig h t ,
t h e T r i a n g M k . I V (ju s t lik e th e
M .R .R .C . 3 -p o le ) a n d , b e lo w , th e
u n u s u a l 'p o w e r sle d g e *.
This is the 26D Mabuchi with ball races. We had two samples in from
Scalextric, one had blue enamelled wire, the other had red. Both motors
turned the claimed 45.000 r.p.m. and the wire colour was the only visible
difference. The Super 124 comes with a six-tooth bevel pinion on the shaft
at the end-bell end to mate up with Scalextric's bevel contrate on the 1 /24th
scale ready-to-runs. N.B. We have since checked with Scalextric over this
question of wire colour - nothing to worry about say Big 'S', it simply
denotes a different batch of power units from Japan. Performance of both
types is identical.
SLOTWARE
SLOTWARE
Address: Dein's Building, 2 Coal Wharf Ro3d, London W.12.
Type: 16D can Slotware Speed 7.
Dimensions:
Width
Height
w
Length (not including shaft) i r
Shaft dia. a *
Usable shaft length
i " (case end only)
Price 35s.
Features:
This is a latest version of the Mabuchi 16D. It features a new hotter
winding and has provision for 'C' clip bracket of the drive end of the can.
Ball bearings in can, stronger magnets.
Type: 26D Slotware Speed 6.
Width
Height
Length (not including shaft)
Shaft dia.
Usable shaft length
1 "
H
1 t¥
A "
i " (case end only)
29

A t left, t h e S l o t w a r e S p e e d 6 2 6 D w it h t h e I6 D s iz e S p e e d 7 a t th e r ig h t.
Price: 29s. 11d.
Features:
Wound 65 turns of 33 s.w.g., this standard 26D features an improved
commutator, and ball bearings. 3v. armature turns at claimed 42,000 r.p.m.
and gives good braking.
S .R .M .
O
S . R . M . 's 13 U O w it h b r a c k e t r e t a in e r * C '
c lip in t h e fo r e g r o u n d . B e c a u s e o f its t w in
m a g n e ts , n o t a w id e ly r e w o u n d ty p e , b u t
it s s lim s iz e m a k e s it a t t r a c t iv e f o r 's c a l e '
F I m o d e ls.
S.R .M ./SU PER SHELLS LTD.
Address: S.R.M. Engineering Ltd., S.R.M. Works, West Street, Harrow on
the Hill, Middlesex.
Type - FT 13UO can Mabuchi.
Dimensions:
Width
W
Height
tV
Length (not including shaft) 1 i*
Shaft dia.
2 mm.
Usable shaft length A "
Price: 14s. 2d.
STROMBECKER
Address: Strombecker Corporation, 4646 West Lake Street, Chicago,
Illinois 60644.
British Distributor: Pegley Davies Limited, Hersham Trading Estate, Walton
30

Strombecker
S t r o m b e c k e r S c u t t lc r
in p a c k in g *
on Thames, Surrey.
Type: Single magnet, twin pole
pieces, integral bracket.
Strombecker Scuttler II.
Dimensions:
Width (including
bracket)
Height
Length including
bracket)
Shaft dia. A ”
Usable shaft length 21/64"
Price: 33s.
Features:
m a d s i n j a i*a n
4 6 4 6 W. L A K E ST., C H IC A C O . ILL.
Carries an integral rear axle bracket drilled to accept i " phos/bronze
bearings. Of Japanese manufacture. Strombecker also produce a 16 size
can type, the Strombecker TC-32 at 27s. 6d. This chrome plated motor
features a 3v. armature, cylindrical brushes with single screw fixing,
epoxied windings and carries oilite bearings. This is the motor from
Strombecker home set cars.
VERSITEC (GLOBE IN D U STR IES IN C )
British Supply: Motor Books and Accessories Ltd., 33 St. Martin's Court,
St. Martin's Lane, London W.C.2 and Model Shop (Guernsey) Ltd.
Type: can type. Versitec SS 101
Dimensions:
Width
1 tV '
Height
0. 6' '
Length (not including shaft) i * r
Shaft dia.
J" (latest 5/64" at pinion end)
Usable shaft length
r
Price: £6 9s. at time of press.
31

Features:
This motor was produced by Globe Industries Inc., especially with slot
racing in mind - their Globe Screamer (SS 99), that completely cylindrical
motor, acted as an efficient wedge to bring them into the slot motor market.
The SS 101 has a 5-pole armature, extremely powerful magnets. Claimed
nominal r.p.m. is 50,000 and each motor is factory checked. Brushes are of
the 'shunted' type from 60 per cent copper. This shunt is fine copper wire
stranding which runs from each brush to the pick up wire tag - thus bypassing
the spring, and so reducing resistance. Grease lubricated ball bearings
carry the & in. dia. shaft.
' I I P
A b o v e , V . I . P . ’s Club
S p e c ia l 3 -p o lc w it h s lig h t ­
ly a w k w a r d b la c k n y lo n
b r a c k e t a t d r iv e e n d . A t
r ig h t, th e S t a n d a r d - t y p o
m o t o r in it s a c c o m p a n y in g
c h a s s is - th e o n ly f o r m in
w h ic h y o u c a n b u y it.
VIC TO R Y IN D U S TR IE S LTD.
Address: Raceways Works, Woodbridge Meadows, Guildford, Surrey.
Type : Single magnet, pole pieces, nylon bracket, external brushgear.
V.I.P. Standard Motor.
Club Special Motor. (C.S.M. Mk. IV)
Dimensions:
Width i “
Height
r
Length (overall) 24'
Shaft dia.
TV
Usable shaft length
r
Price: 29s. Standard: Club Special Motor25s.
Features:
The Standard motor is only available in a complete chassis (hence the
higher price). You can have standard or wide track size. The new Club
Special C.S.M. Mk. IV is an improvement over the older Club Special
featuring a laminated armature core-giving a claimed increase in performance
of 40-50 per cent. 16,000 r.p.m. are claimed free running at 12v.
32

Recommended gear ratio is 3J:1 while the Standard prefers something in
the region of 4:1. The Club Special is, of course, available as a separate
motor and is a 3-pole.
A t loft, a lig h t b lu e c a se d W o n d e r I6 D a n d , a t r ig h t , it s b ig b r o t h e r , t h e W o n d e r 2 6 D
L o n e R a n g e r .
WONDER MOTORS
Address: 21 -22 Eastern Esplanade, Southend on Sea, Essex.
Type: 16D Can Wonder 16D Blue Sprint, Super Blue Sprint.
Dimensions:
Width
+ T
Height
21'32'
Length (not including shaft) 1 i "
Shaft dia.
Usable shaft length
-^r" (case end only)
Price: 35s.
Features:
Light blue painted can. Static balancing, epoxied armature, rewind.
Available in battery or transformer winds. Wonderland also have a Super
Wonder motor in both 16D and 26D forms which can be produced in
a wind to suit customers' requirements. Power supply must be stated. Price
for the Super is 65s. 6d., and this, too, is static balanced.
Type: 26D can. Wondor 26D Lone Ranger.
Dimensions:
Width 1"
Height
Length (not including shaft) 1 -fa"
Shaft dia.
Usable shaft length
■&" (end bell end)
Price: 43s. 11d.
Features:
Unliko the 16D which has provision for a 'C' clipped bracket on the case
end, the 26D has self tap holes on the end bell and drives only from this end.
Armature on the 26D is wound for 2v. giving a claimed 60,000 r.p.m. and
high torque characteristics. It is fitted with ball races. Wonderland can
supply seven different winds when you state your power supply and
Wonderland 16D motors carry Wonder 44 magnets.
33

in greater
detail
AIRFIX
First, let's take a look at the two
cans that Airfix use in their ready-torun
cars. There are two of them, one
a 13UO size motor, and a 16D
somewhat similar to the old SP 500
Revell. These motors are not made
by Mabuchi though, but come from
Hong Kong. Points to watch with
this pair are loose armature windings
and sticky brushgear. If the w indings
look a bit insecure, it's best to
Araldite them. Make sure that the
brushes and springs can move
freely. These motors are only really
suitable for home set use, and aren't
suitable for rewinding. If you must
modify though, Araldite pieces of
metal to the brushholders as extra
heat-sinks.
There's also the Clubman motor,
and again this is best suited to small
tracks. As with all open frame
motors, this one will benefit from
remagnetising from time to time. The
windings on this one are wont to
leave the armature, and covering
them with Araldite is good idea
here too.
CERTUS
Certus are custom rewinds made
in Indiana, U S A . Like most similar
motors, they come in several different
winds, and there are two 16D's, and
unusual these days, a 26D, too.
They have all the usual features,
such as special end-bells, super
magnets, dynamic balancing, etc.
Top 16D is the 615, and this sells for
just under 15 dollars in the States,
so it obviously wouldn't be very
cheap here.
The 26D is called the 622, and is
unusual in having arm-type brushes
with a hairpin-type spring on top of
the motor.
If you can think of any way to improve
these motors, Certus would
probably be interested to hear from
you.
CHAMPION
Whatever you think of doing to
any of these motors, it's a pretty safe
bet that Champion have already
done it. Cheapest is the 5001, and
this is very similar to the latest 16Ds,
perhaps rather hotter. The magnets
will take quite a hot rewind, but even
standard, it moves. The 601 is a 26D,
but better than standard, since only
the best 10 per cent are sold in this
form. The 507 is a full-house oldtype
16D, dynamically balanced
with Arco's.
Hottest of all are the 517 and 617.
The 617 is a 26D and costs £8 here,
but you can't go faster at any price.
617's come in one wind only,
26 single.
Probably the fastest 16D size
34

motor at the price, the 517 comes in
three winds, 28 27 and 26 gauge.
Just as this was being written,
some more information on the
latest in 517s came along. Champion
have up-dated the basic 517, and
now it's called the 517B. The price
has increased by 40 per cent, but it
has a new 'bulletproof' end bell,
super trued commutator and armature
laminations, new epoxy, and
even better balancing, if that's possible.
There should be some new
winds on these as well.
Then later, there will be a 'Cozine
Autograph' version and this will, of
course, be oven better, even faster,
and inevitably, even more expensive.
Apart from a lot of special attention,
these will have a new shim for the
magnets, and completely new armature
materials in the interests of still
more power and reliability.
If you ask them nicely, they will be
only too happy to do you any wind
that you ask for, but, naturally, you
have to pay for this service! In the
States, where slot racing is more of a
sport than a hobby, 517s seem to be
winning a good number of races at
themoment. Naturally themajorityof
these are specially built, but a good
many races are won by completely
standard ones as well, and when
you consider that most of the opposition
costs twice as much, what
more can you say ?
All of Champion's motors are
assembled from Champion parts, no
Mabuchi parts are used.
COX
Favourites from this manufacturer
are the two Nascars. The large one is
supplied in many of their kits, and is
the same size as the 36D Mabuchi.
There isn't really too much you can
do to this motor, but it's a good idea
to modify the end bell, since the
black material that Cox end-bells are
made from seems to have a particularly
low heat resistance
The small Nascar is the same size
as a 16D, and can be improved quite
easily. The winding is plenty hot
enough for 32nd use, but the insulation
is rather prone to go if the
motor gets too hot, so you might
well find yourself rewinding it in the
end. Apart from the usual end bell
mods, described elsewhere, it's a
good idea to fit stronger magnets,
and while you have the thing apart,
solder the rear bearing into the can
too. Stronger brush springs are a
good idea as well.
Found in those 32nd ready-totrundles,
the other motor Cox supply
at the moment is their version of the
13UO, and all versions of this motor
are the same, painfully slow. This
one is no worse than the others, but
while these motors can be made to
move, it takes so much work that it
really isn't worth the effort, and the
best way to make the cars go faster
is to modify the chassis to take a
16D. In a car costing £5 to start
with. This is called the TTX 50, by
the way.
Latest development is the long
awaited Super Nascar. This has been
just around the corner for years now,
and it's a little hard to believe that it
really has arrived at last. Performance
wise, it certainly will not be a
Mura-eater, but in 32nd it might be
a good bet. It has a new case,
magnets, winding and not much
else. If you get one of these, a new
or heavily reworked end bell would
be essential, and a set of Super
Arco's or Mura's ought to help the
thing along somewhat.
This is 1CD-sized, of course. A
real shock was the importer's insistance
that a 36D-sized Super
Nascar is also on the way. Personally,
I will believe this one when I
see it. This could be slot racing's
answer to the Ford Classic.
35

DYNAMIC
Dynamic do the usual range of
standard and rewound 16Ds and
26Ds, and they also have a motor
all their own called the General Electric,
and this is the firm who make
them for Dynamic. This motor was a
real quality job, but because of its
great size and weight, it never really
caught on. Dynamic have just announced
a new motor, a 16D-sized
one and this might well be worth
looking into. Unfortunately, this
motorisso new that we haven'tseen
one yet, so we can't say much more
about it.
DYNA REWIND
This range should be well known
to Model Cars readers, and they do
16Ds and 26Ds. Presumably, now
that Dyna have their own strong
magnets, these should be adequate,
but any earlier motors will get a big
boost from a set of Arcos. The 26 Ds
still have the earlier magnets, and it's
unlikely that Dyna will be doing the
new ones for 26Ds. All the 160s are
based on the latest ballbearing
Mabuchis. This motor, by the way,
has only one ball race, not two, as
some advertisers have stated. The
real trouble with Dynas is the fact
that they retain the standard end
bell, and sooner or later, this is
bound to melt. You can always
modify if, of course, but standard
end bells are not really suitable for
any kind of hot rewind, unless very
heavily modified. Dyna w ill soon
have their own 'unmeltable' end
bell, and this, of course, should solve
the problem we hope thatthisend bell
really is unmeltable, as it hasn't been
done, yet. Mura have come very
close, but haven't quite made it.
There was a time when Dynas
were the best rewinds on the market
for the price. That this is not true now
is the fault not of theirs, but of devaluation,
import surcharges, and
similar things. When Dynas are
equipped with adequate magnets,
melt-proof end bells, etc., they
should be more popular than ever
before if they can keep tho cost
within reason.
At the moment, the various winds
are more suited to lighter cars, and
now that they do a variety of different
windings on the armatures that they
sell separately, it would be nice to
see the same kind of choice offered
to buyers of the complete motors.
K.B.B.
This is the motor that Riko used to
sell as the Thunderbolt. There really
isn't too much you can do to this
motor to hot it up, since the magnets
are very weak, and because of the
unusual shape of the can, no other
magnets can be fitted. It is quite
fast, but the braking is practically
non-existant. One way you can im ­
prove it though, is to replace the
bearing in the end bell with a better
one, one from an old 16D or similar
will do. More spring pressure on the
brushes is a good idea too. Not bad
for home set use. It's available from
Pegley Davies.
K's
This range was almost the only
way to go at one time, but the march
of time has pretty well left this trio
behind. The Mk. 1 was the most
popular motor around three years
ago, and at the time they seemed
quite fast enough, and this is all the
more surprising when you consider
that the Mk. 1 and Mk. 2 were
originally made for model trains - in
fact, they still are. As a result, they
are rather tame as motors go, and
certainly will not haul a heavy car
around. Recently, they have brought
out the Super S.T.V. This is a little
faster than the older motors, but not
much, certainly not remotely competitive
these days, but the whole
range are all capable of giving long
36

and faithful service on a small, home
track.
The S.T.V. can't really be modified,
but keep it well magnetised.
The other two on the othor hand
would benefit from harder brushes.
Airfix will fit, but you may have to
shorten them slightly to fit them.
Stretch the springs slightly for more
pressure, too.
The Mk. 1 can be fitted with a
M.R.R.C. three- or five-pole armature,
and this really does speed them
up. The timing on the new armature
will have to be altered by
90 degrees before the motor will run.
Alternatively, you could fit the type
of brushgear found on M.R.R.C.
motors. You'll have to take the
motor to pieces, of course, to fit the
new armature and you will also have
to glue it back together with Araldite.
Then, of course, you must have
it remagnetised.
M.R.R.C.
This is perhaps the oldest firm in
slot racing anywhere in the world.
They produce three- and five-pole
versions of the same motor they
started with many years ago, and
two newer ball-raced motors. It's
the usual story though, none of
them is fast enough for top competition
use in standard form. Heavily
modified they can just about make
the grade on some club tracks. The
best way to hot up the three- and
five-pole motors is to fit doublepole
pieces, and this is not a very
difficult job. Just saw off the ends of
the extra polo pieces to clear the
brushgear and the rear mounting
holes behind the magnet. Then file
the pole pieces so that they fit
snugly. They can be soldered to the
original pole pieces if you have a
good enough soldering iron, or
alternatively, use a longer 8BA bolt
through the original holes, either
way the motor should be remagnetised.
If you want to get really involved
you can shorten the motor by
grinding the shaft away at the rear to
bring the armature as close as possible
to the magnet. Single- or
double-poled, this makes a tremendous
difference. Naturally, if
you do this you'll have to relocate the
brushgear, and U-bracket, but one
thing is certain, you'll have the
fastest three- or five-pole in town.
Ballbearings are easy to fit, too.
Double-poled motors need much
more brush pressure than standard
ones.
The 24th ballrace motor is a huge
and heavy thing. The bearings are
really thrust races, and it's difficult
to think of a single worthwhile mod
for this one.
The smaller ballrace motor on the
other hand is perhaps the best motor
in the entire range. It comes with a
nylon frame at either end, and this is
best removed as it is not rigid
enough to serve as a chassis member.
The most satisfactory way to
build a chassis around this one is to
solder it to the motor, and this is one
of the few instances where we
would advocate this.
As far as modifications go,
replace the plastic moulding the
brushes are held in by something
with rather more heat resistance,
paxolin is a good material for this.
The brush springs are not really up
to the job, and if you have one, a
spring off a three-pole is best. Failing
this, you will have to make one
from piano wire, about 20 s.w.g.
Araldite a bolt on top of the magnet
to hold this in place. You can fit
double-pole pieces to thismotor, we
once did this, and while the torque
was tremendous, we had to gear it at
less than 2 to 1 to get any top speed
out of it, since it just wouldn't rev.
37

MURA
Together with Champion, Mura
have just about got the super rewind
market to themselves, in their
home land at any rate, and since
Muras and Champions win most of
the big races, this is hardly surprising.
Currently, there are four motors in
the range. Cheapest by far is the
stock 16D. This is as sold by
Mabuchi, but with a Mura case, and
apart from being better magnetically
than the standard one, this has a
proper bearing in it, and is a much
more accurately made product too.
This motor also has better brush
springs, and as with all Mura motors,
the case and end bell are held to ­
gether with things which look like
miniature masonry nails.
Then there is a new one, a rewind
with all the usual features
which is about an eighth of an inch
shorter than the others in the range.
Next is the Mura 1000, and this has
everything, in a variety of winds that
start at 26 and get hotter.
Top of the pile without a doubt is
the 'Team Cukras'. This sells for no
less than twenty dollars less five
cents. If that isn't enough. Champions'
latest is perhaps the wildest
of them all. It’s called the Steube 517
and it sells for a crippling thirty
dollars. Maybe full-size racing would
be cheaper.
Probably you're wondering how
these prices are justified, and the
answer is that these motors are put
together as accurately as it is possible
to do, and each motor represents
many hours of work. As far as
any motor can be uncoughable,
these are. The precision makes some
insane winds possible. Would you
believe single 24 ? Double 27 ? This
must surely be the limit.
John Cukras. by the way, is to
Mura what the late and very great
Jim Clark was to Lotus, and is just
as much a professional as Jim was.
His scratchy pen autographs every
motor, and if you're wondering, the
name is pronounced su-cres.
LENZ
This is really the same firm as
Mura, and they make just one motor
which they call 'The Boss'. Roughly,
it's the same as the Mura 1000.
NORDIC
Back home again, and back to
earth, we come to the range of rewinds
sold by Nordic Models. At the
moment they do three different
motors, the Mk.s 1 and 2 Goldstars,
and a new one, the Silverstar. The
Mk. 1 Goldstar and the Silverstar are
Straightforward rewound 16Ds, and
though they might seem rather expensive
at first glance, they aren't,
and are really excellent value for
money. Though they are both standard
apart from being rewound, this
is very well done indeed, and considering
that they are only statically
balanced, they are beautifully
smooth. The winding is better by
far than any non-expert could ever
hope to manage, and most important
of all, besides being fast, they are
pretty reliable, too
Like most motors though, they
can easily be improved Since the
end bells are standard, this is a good
place to start, and stronger magnets
are a good idea too. Also solder that
rear bearing into the can. The Goldstar
is for high-powered tracks, and
the Silverstar is for low-powered
tracks.
Top Nordic motor is the Mk. 2
Goldstar This is also a rewound
Mabuchi 16D, but with a hotter
wind than the Mk. 1, and stronger
magnets, which are none other than
our old friends, the H.l.T. or Rikochet
type. For 32nd racing this is about as
hot as most people can manage.
Unfortunately, the magnets are
Araldited into the case, so you can't
38

eplace them with Arcos and this
would really make it fly. Ron
Nichol's ads just give his motor's
competition successes, while most
of the opposition make exaggerated
claims and leave it at that. Anyone
can say their motors are fast, but not
everyone can prove it.
PACTRA
This is about the only Hemi on the
market, we've always had a soft spot
for them, and this is as fast as any,
in fact, for many people it might just
be too fast. The real problem with
these motors, or any Hemi for that
matter is the brushgear, and as this
motor is hotter than most, it also
suffers most. The brushes are fine,
but the springs lose their tension very
soon when the motor gets at all hot,
so this is certainly not a motor for
long races. You will be lucky to find
any other springs to fit, but we have
heard of springs from a cigarette
lighter being used with success. You
could wind your own of course if
you can find any suitablo wire.
Hemi magnets are quite good,
though, naturally, Arcos will boost
the power no end. One last point,
Hemi end bells are very easy to
break, so be careful.
PITTMAN
Once the undisputed king of slot
racing, Pittmans are a rare sight these
days, as, except on the tighter club
tracks, they simply aren't competitive
any more. They are, however,
much too hot for most home tracks.
Probably the fastest in the range
is the 1968, and the Mabuchis have
a long way to go before they can top
this motor's total of wins. Standard
hop up for this motor is to fit harder
brushes. We always used M.R.R.C.
but now that this firm have changed
the brush gear on their motors,
these may be difficult to find. Possibly,
if you wrote to M.R.R.C.
direct they could help here. This also
works wonders for the other two in
the range, the DC66, and the 6001
Pittcan. Unfortunately, it also accentuates
the Pittman's worst failing,
the commutator, and with hard
brushes they simply wear away,
usually after 23 hours of a 24-hour
race! To combat this, one dodge is to
flood the whole motor with oil from
time to time, and this makes them
much more free running as well. Not
that we would recommend that you
do this to any other motor, but it certainly
works with Pittmans. These
motors seem to thrive on oil.
The 66 is a quite fast five-pole
motor, and this can be improved by
replacing the coil brush spring with
one from an M.R.R.C. motor.
The 196B can also be improved
by sticking Mabuchi magnets on to
the motor's pole pieces, though this
doesn't always work. We have seen
Arcos used for this, and this is just
plain stupid.
PRONTO
This firm makes just one motor,
the Whiplash. We have seen one of
these that was quite fast, and about
two dozen that werenotquitesohot.
The design of the motor is sound
enough, and it would probably give
long and faithful service on a small
track or home set track. This one has
a rather easily meltable end bell, so
rewinding is not really advisable.
Watch also for windings coming
off the armature, the bearing coming
out of the end bell, and the brush
springs losing their tension.
This motor is not too easy to
mount, and is best soldered into a U-
bracket, and this doesn't seem to
have any ill-effects. Don't be put off
by this motor's rough appearance.
RIKO
Here we have a huge range of
different motors, some very good
39

indeed. Several are too new
to be able to say much about
them.
The Rikowhip is the new Mabuchi
16D, and is possibly the best in the
range, possibly even the best value
available anywhere. This really is a
good motor. The winding is quite
hot enough for almost any 32nd car,
and the magnets are the next best
thing to the best available. Unfortunately,
the end bell is unchanged
from the previous model, and needs
modifying. There is a crude type of
ball bearing in the case, and though
this is far from ideal, it is much better
than the older type of spherical bearing,
though if you can find something
better, by all moans replace it.-
This is sold at 31s., and Dyna Rewind
sell the very same motor for
37s. 6d. with stronger brush springs,
so the choice is yours, certainly
stronger brush springs would be a
good idea on the Riko motor.
The Rikonomb is an open frame
type motor, and comes in two versions,
plain or ball bearings. It has
coil spring brushes, and Airfix
brushes are a good thing. If you can
find a better magnet that will fit, by
all means use it, since the standard
one is rather weak, and remagnetising
doesn't help. Ideal for home set
use.
Then we come to the Rikochets,
Rikoflash s, Rikostreaks Mks. 1 and
2, and surprisingly, the Mk. 1 versions
are all better than the Mk. 2s.
If they would only combine the Mk.
1 magnets with the Mk. 2 armatures,
they would have three even
better motors. As it is you can do
this yourself if you have the parts.
All have coil brush springs which
lose their tension, and the end bell
from a 16D Mabuchi would be a
much better bet. Watch that the end
bell bearing doesn't come loose in
the Flashes and Streaks. Also, the
armature shaft has a tendency to
come loose in Mk. 2 Flashes. This is
best cured with Locktite.
The Mk. 1s all have good commutators,
and the Mk. 2s all have
rather poor ones. The Mk. 2s cry out
for better magnets, since in standard
form they have almost no brakes at
all. The end bells seem to be almost
melt-proof on the Flashes and
Streaks. Unfortunately, for some
reason, the Mk. 2 Rikochet has a
A in. shaft.
RUSSKIT
Then we come to Russkit. First
the 23. This is just a 16D Mabuchi
the only difference being that it has
the old-type case with the blind
rear bearing. This is best drilled
through, as it creates quite a lot of
friction from pressing on the armature
shaft. Otherwise all the normal
mods for 16Ds apply. The 34 is a
huge and heavy thing, and quite
unique.
The 27 on the other hand is quite
a useful motor. Basically, it is a Mk. 1
Rikochet with a hotter armature, and
it's pretty quick. They even do a
good balancing job on them.
The end bell of this one w ill not
handle anything hotter, so if you rewind,
replace it.
SCALEX
With the exception of the 26Ds,
these are all for home use on plexytrack
where the bumps will keep the
speeds down even if you can find
any way to speed the motors up.
First, there is the old three-pole
motor which has powered Scalex
cars almost as long asweeanremember.
Given a fair chance, this one
will go on for ever. It has been
hotted up by the makers recently,
and now has about as much power
as you need on most home layouts,
and for club use, well, really you're
wasting your time there. If you in ­
sist though, you can alter the brush
40

pressures, more is usually needed.
Of course, most of the mods for the
M.R.R.C. three-pole can be carried
out here, double poles, etc. However,
since a new three-pole costs
little more than a Scalex, unless you
want to do the work yourself, or
just can't afford it, you might do well
to invest in a new motor, as in most
casos they are interchangeable. One
thing to watch for with both these
two is the rear bearing, as this often
works loose. This is quite easy to
correct by re-bending the retaining
clip.
Unfortunately, there is no easy
way to speed up the next in the
family, this is the 'Power sledge', a
strange name for the old and unloved
F.J. motor which now comes
with an integral guide assembly, to
give a rather unsophisticated isofulcrum.
All you can do with this motor is
to make sure that everything is as
free as you can make it, since these
things burn out at the slightest
provocation.
The 26Ds supplied with the new
24th cars are fairly typical examples,
and all the usual mods apply.
S.R.M. SUPER SHELLS
This firm's cars are supplied with
a version of the 13UO Mabuchi.
and this is about on a par with most
others of this type. This one is
different though in that it has an
extremely long pinion. We know
one racer who is so mean that
he usually cuts pinions in half, and
he would get three or four out of
this one.. . .
STROMBECKER
Until quite recently, this American
firm was selling an open frame type
motor somewhat like an old 196
Pittman, arid this is the Scuttler.
This originally appeared just as the
cans were beginning to dominate.
and had it arrived on the scene
earlier it might have made a bigger
impact. Its main failing is a rather
poor commutator, and the brushes
are harder than most, and as a
result they have no difficulty whatsoever
in wearing through this in
quite a short time. This is just
about the only motor for which we
would recommend softer brushes.
The bearings are not the best around,
and the shaft is, unfortunately (and
almost uniquely), 2 mm., which
makes better bearings hard to find.
As far as performance goes, the
Scuttler is roughly on a par with a
three-pole.
Strombecker also, of course, make
Hemi's. Their small one is the same
as sold by Pactra, but with not so
hot a winding, however, the same
mods apply. They also do a 36Dsized
Hemi and here too the same
mods can be carried out. Using most
of the same parts are a pair of
similar motors that are tamer still,
and these are suitable for home set
use, these can be distinguished by
their blue end bells, while Hemi end
bells are red.
TAYLORTUNED
A relative newcomer to the motor
scene, this firm puts out a variety of
rewound old-type 16Ds and 26Ds.
There are several different windings,
for high and low power supplies, and
the 160s can be had with the drive
out of either end. The ads say they
have stronger magnets, and the 16D
versions are fitted with Rikochettype
magnets, but the 26D magnets
both look and feel and are quite
standard. A rewound 26D sells for
49s. 11 d. ?
Contrary to what certain advertisements
may lead one to believe,
these motors do not feature dynamic
balancing. Dynamic balancing
is a very costly and difficult
process, and we cannot recall a
41

firm in Britain offering this service
to modellers at the moment.
Costly though the process is, in
terms of performance it is worth
every penny. These motors are
'balanced' by carving portions
off the armature on a grinding
wheel.Dynamic balancing?Hardly.
VERSITEC
From the ridiculous to the sublime,
Versitec's motor is a quality
job in the real meaning of the word.
It is unusual in many ways. For
one thing it has good ball bearings,
the type with a proper inner race,
and as this is a fairly low revving
motor, these are probably a good
thing. It is also a five-pole, and as
far as cans go this makes it unique.
It has particularly good brush gear,
and the motor as a whole is almost
impossible to blow up in normal use.
We have seen them far too hot to
touch, and Still merrily rushing
around the track when any other
motor would have expired long
before. Quite seriously, this motor
could well be the most disasterproof
yet produced. For this reason,
it's rather unfortunate that it isn't
quite fast enough for the all-out
24th racing it is aimed at, and for
most 32nd use it's just too fast. If
you have one, it probably has a & in.
diameter shaft. The latest ones have
the end of the shaft turned down to
take normal-sized pinions. The
shaft size is not really too much of a
disadvantage though, since the
Versitec has a whole load of torque,
and the ten-tooth pinion that the
makers produce is usually about
right. The magnets are as good as the
best.
As it's a five-pole, rewinding
would be beyond most people, even
many experts. For once this is a
motor that it's almost impossible to
improve.
VIP
Together with M.R.R.C. this firm
were in at the birth of slot racing,
and their Club Special, inline type
motor is still going strong today.
While neither cheap nor particularly
fast, this six-pole is a well-made
motor, and is as fast as it needs to be
for the home sets it is made for.
Utterly reliable, its only bad point
are the rear axle bearings, these are
nylon, and tend to wear out fast. If
you clean all the oil off. and Araldite
short lengths of tubing in the holes
you can easily overcome this problem
but, of course, you must open
the .holes out first.
The club special is a six-pole, but
a new motor released recently is
more or less the same with a threepole
armature. This has a considerably
hotter winding, and ought to be
correspondingly that much faster. It
fits where the old six-pole fits, so
this should be one way to speed up
your tired V.I.P. racers.
WONDER
This is a range of rewound
old-type Mabuchis very similar to
the Taylor range, and rumour has
it that the same firm is responsible
for both these, and possibly
the same guy writes the advertisements,
since, here again, there
have been claims that the motors
are dynamically balanced when
they aren't. This is totally inexcusable,
of course, and makes the
motor's price of 65s. 6d. look
pretty tremendous. The magnets
are Super Wonder 44s, and these
turn out to be the inevitable
Rickochet variety once more, and
it's to be hoped that nobody will
confuse these w ith Mura 44s,
which are stronger by far.
Normally, if you buy an article
which turn out to fall sadly short
of the maker's claims, you have
pretty good grounds for demanding
your money back, but don't
let that put any ideas into your
head; in any case, we could be
quite wrong.
42

magnets
Rob W hitm arsh
In slot-racing these days, performance
almost invariable means a
tin-can of some kind, and fitting
stronger magnets to almost any of
these will increase performance
more than any other single thing
that you can do, short of rewinding
of course. Most of you will already
know that stronger magnets mean
more power, but the benefits actually
go much further than this. The
extra power means more speed and
better acceleration, and the stronger
magnetic field shortens braking distances
by an enormous amount over
standard magnets. Perhaps moro
important than any of theso things
though, is this: assuming that all
other factors remain unchanged, the
stronger magnetic field resulting
from the stronger magnets reduces
the motor's current draw, and this
means that the motor will run cooler
by a corresponding amount. Unless
the power supply is inadequate, a
hot rewind without strong magnets
is not likely to have a very long life
at all, since it will almost certainly
heat up and blow. This applies more
to the better-powered 24th tracks,
but with 32nd scale cars and tracks
growing ever faster, plenty of the
little cars are coming to a smoky halt
these days as well.
What follows is a description and
evaluation of some of the various
different types of super magnets
available at the moment, together
with a few fitting instructions.
There's an old saying, 'There's
nothing good that's cheap', and this
is certainly very true where super
magnets are concerned, since a set
could set you back by anything up
to forty shillings, and unless you
have a money well at the bottom of
your garden, you may decide that
this isn't for you and turn the page
right now. Remember though, that
once you have a set of Arcos or
similar magnets, they aren't going
to wear out like motors do, and
there's no reason why you can't
swap them from motor to motor as
you blow them up, wear them out, or
just do better and better rewinds.
Probably the most popular replacement
magnets are the H.l.T.
type, or those found in the Mk. 1
Rikochet, and when you consider
that it's possible to buy a complete
motor with these magnets for only
twelve shillings or so, there popularity
isn't surprising. For various
reasons the Rikochet isn't suitable
for hot rewinds, so the magnets must
be removed from the case if they are
to be fitted into another motor. This
is quite a simple job if you set about
it the right way.
First push out the retaining
spring from between the magnets by
poking a screwdriver blade through
the holes in the back of the case.
This spring often comes free quite
easily, but some are very stubborn
indeed. If yours is one of these,
don't got carried away and use so
much force that you break the magnets,
since they do break quite
easily.
Having got the clip out, you'll
43

find the magnets are glued into the
case. Since you won't be using the
case anyway, the safest way to
remove the magnets, is to place the
case between the jaws of a vice,
and squeeze until the case is deformed
just enough to break the
glued joint. The magnets can then
be removed without difficulty, of
course. Scrape any glue from the
back of the magnets.
It all depends which motor you're
going to fit them into, but most
motors have indentations somewhere
on the case, and these must
be removed to fit the Rikochet magnets.
The best way to do this is to
squeeze them with a heavy duty
pair of pliers. When you do this,
however, be careful not to deform
the case. Before you fit these magnets
into another case, first clean
everything with petrol. These magnets
should really bo Araldited into
the case, and if you do it this way,
you can use the spring you took out
of the Rikochet to hold them in place
while the glue dries. If you must use
this spring to hold them in, re-bend
it to give more pressure, and push it
as far as you can between the magnets.
One thing to watch if you
choose to do it this way, is that the
spring doesn't hit the windings when
you re-assemble the motor, and
really, its much better to glue the
things in.
While these magnets are cheap,
they are a lot stronger than those
found in standard 16Ds. Strombeckers,
Rikoflashs, etc. The same
magnets are, in fact, found in Nordic's
Mk. 2 Goldstar, and the
Taylortuned motors, and they aren't
exactly slow.
If you have an old Mk. 1 Rikoflash,
these have magnets that are a
considerable improvement on those
found in 16Ds, Nascars, etc. There
isn't anything wrong with the
Flash's case, so it might be better to
transfer the armature from the
motor you're hotting up into the
Flash case. Also the Flash Mk. 1 has
a much bettor bearing in the case
than most.
Similarly, the magnets from an
old Strombecker are an improvement
on those found in many similar
motors, and these can be removed
from their original home, and put
into a new one without any d ifficulty
at all..
For 12s. 6d. you can buy a pair of
Dyna Junior magnets, and these are
the same as those found in the latest
ballbearing 160 Mabuchis. This
could be Dyna's way of disposing of
the magnets that they remove from
the motors they rewind, when they
fit their own super magnets. These
are exactly twice as powerful as the
old type Mabuchi magnets, and are
well worth having at 12s. 6d.
Naturally, the performance increase
won't be as startling as with Arcos,
but they are certainly the next best
thing, and for a tight, twisty track
you may find them plenty strong
enough for you.
Moving up the scale in both price
and performance, we come to the
Dyna 9s, again sold by Dyna Rewind.
These have been superseded
quite recently by some stronger
ones, but there are still quite a lot
of the older ones around, and these
are the ones which come with two
shaped black shims. These fit over
and under the magnets in the motor,
and to fit them, and the magnets, the
usual tabs, indentations, etc., must
be removed from the case first. As
before, be very careful not to deform
the case when you do this.
Those black shims are steel, and
they are a very tight fit indeed in the
can, and it's quite possible that you
may bend them slightly in fitting
them. You must check for this
before you reassemble the motor
and run it, since these shims are very
44

close to the armature at the top and
bottom, and any kinks in the shims
will cause them to hit the armature
as it turns.
These magnets are not in the same
class as Arcos, but they are a good
deal cheaper. Roughly in the same
class are the old Mura Magnum 44s,
and the old type un-shimmed
Arcos. Both these last two were
superseded quite some time ago.
Where they fell short of the later
ones was their shapes. Both of them
were originally made to fit the 36D
size motor (remember them), and to
fit the smaller motors, they were
ground down, or even broken from
the look of some that we've seen.
Since the 36D has a larger case and
armature diameter, these magnets
didn't fit the smaller cans too well,
even when cut down, and if you
have any of these magnets, you'll
have to shim them in closer to the
armature for best results.
The latest Dyna magnets, replacing
the Dyna 9s as we said earlier,
are the Dyna 5s. These are claimed
to be rated at Indox 5, which puts
them in the same class as Arcos and
Mura 88s, and at 30s. they are a
good deal cheaper than either of
these. However, you may remember
that the old Dyna 9s were advertised
as positively the strongest',
and they were only half as powerful
as Arcos, so it might be best to wait
and see here.
Anyway, back to magnets. Dyna
5s are at the moment darn near impossible
to fit in the 16D size can
they are supposed to fit, and this is
because of a mix-up over the dimensions
of the shims that are supplied
with them. We are assured that later
examples will actually fit properly.
Meanwhile, you'll just have to make
your own shims. Use steel for this,
never, never masking tape or
anything of that kind. Since these
magnets are over 10s. cheaper than
45
Arcos you may decide that this
effort is worthwhile. Almost forgot.
When fitting these Dyna 5s. you'll
find that they are less than the
height of the can. Be careful that you
get them in the exact centre, that is,
with an equal gap at topand bottom.
For best results, this is very im ­
portant. It would probably be best
to glue these magnets into the case,
to obviate any possibility of their
moving once you reassemble the
motor.
You will undoubtedly have
noticed that all the replacement
magnets described so far have been
for 16D size motors, and there are
probably a few 26D fanciers reading
this who are wondering what
they can do to their motors. Well, in
my opinion the 26D is headed the
way of the 36D, and not really worth
spending any hard-earned cash on,
but if you insist, you have several
choices. You could fit Dyna 9s.
These are very simple to fit and are
the cheapest at 27s. 6d. Much more
powerful, and very much more expensive
are Arcos, and these, too,
are easy to fit.
Top of the line, of course, for 16D
size cans, are Arcos and Muras.
Champion Super Arco 33s, and
Mura Magnum 88s, to give them
their full imposing titles. Depending
where you buy them, Arcos will cost
you around forty shillings, M uras will
probably be somewhat cheaper.
The Arcos come complete with a
chromed shim which encloses the
magnets on three sides, and this
shim automatically sets up all the
correct clearances inside the motor.
Muras come with two rather rough
flat shims, and probably do not give
the same results as Arcos for this
reason. Mura do make a special
shim, but this must be bought
separately, and if you do this the
price works out about the same. The
Mura shim is really a complete can

which fits inside the normal 160
case. This is very effective indeed in
keeping all the magnetism inside
where it is needed, and these inner
cans, or 'semi-can magnetic shield'
as Mura call them, come in two
thicknesses, -008 in. and '015 in.
Champion's shim also comes in two
thicknesses. Both are available
separately, and the thinner one is
supplied with the magnets when
these are bought separately. The
thicker shim is supplied in their
517 motors, and is also sold on its
own.
One would have thought that
fitting either of these two kinds of
magnets would be well within
anyones capabilities, but a certain
'electronics expert' turned up at the
club one night, proudly showing off
Arcos which ho had somehow
managed to fit in back tofront! Here
is how to do it properly.
First, of course, any indentations
on the can must be removed. Then,
for Arcos, bend the shim slightly so
that it's a tight fit in the case when
you fit it. Then slide the shim into
the case as far as it will go. On many
motors, there are tabs sticking up at
the back of the case, and these must
be either bent flush with the end of
the can, or removed. If you want to
fit the magnets into a Mk. 1 Riko
flash, forget it, it can't be done, but
as far as we know, they will fit any
other motor. If you have fitted your
Arco shim the right way round, the
two small holes in the shim should
be centred in the cooling hole in the
motor case. After this, push the mag -
nets in as far as they will go, and
then press in the special spring
clip between them. It doesn't
matter which way you fit the magnets,
since the field is not the same
as, for instance, Mabuchi ones,
which must be fitted a certain way.
Mura Magnets are easy to fit, too.
If you aren't using the inner can, the
46
job is simplicity itself. Like Dyna 5s,
however, they are smaller than the
can, and they must be fitted with an
equal gap top and bottom. If you
use the inner can you'll find that this
is a tight fit, and it should be pushed
all the way into the can. Even when
pushed in all the way though, the
inner can and magnets, which are
longer than Arcos, mean that the
end-bell must be shortened slightly
to enable it to seat in the can
correctly.
Well, that just about covers the
magnets. After you fit some stronger
magnets to a motor, and reassemble
it, you'll feel the extra magnetism as
soon as you turn the armature over.
Be warned, however, this is no indication
whatsoever of the power of
the magnets. This is influenced by
many factors, such as case material
and thickness, magnet shape, air
gap, and even armature material.
Also, onco the magnets are installed
in a motor, there isn't to the
best of my knowledge, any accurate
method of measuring their strength.
A gaussmeter w ill measure magnetism,
it is true, but it can only
measure the magnetism which
leaks through the case, in this instance.
Ideally, there should bo no
leakage at all, but this is almost impossible
to avoid in practice. The
new ballbearing 16D Mabuchi case
is very good indeed in this respect.
Champion and Mura both use their
own cases in their motors, and
these, too, keep much more magnetism
inside the case than would, say,
an old-typo 16D. This problem of
magnetic leakage is one reason why
Mura have their inner can, while
Champion use theirthickershim and
case for the same reason.
Well, now you have your super
magnet equipped bomb installed in
your favourite car ready to try on the
track. Straight away you'll notice
the extra power, and the brakes, too.

Possibly, the power comes in with
too much of a bang and the car is
rather difficult to drive as a result.
Give it a good trial, but if you still
can't get used to it after a few
dozen laps, you could alter the gear
ratio, and this is covered elsewhere
in this book. Also the powerful
brakes may make the car hard to
drive on the limit, and this is another
reason to change the gearing.
There really isn't much point in
using a relatively tame wind with
strong magnets, see John Veasy's
piece on rewinding for the best
course here.
Really, if you are using super
magnets, and take your racing at all
seriously, you should take your
motors apart from time to time to
clean them and check on brush
wear and the state of the bearings,
etc. If you can, it's a good idea to
remove the magnets at the same
time to clean off the bits of metal
which will inevitably have attached
themselves to the magnets. Remember,
that since the motor is now
more powerful, that it will wear out
bearings faster than a standard
magnet equipped one, but let's just
hope that after all this trouble and
expense, you're getting around the
track that much faster!
basic
hop-up
Even if you don't intend to
rewind, or otherwise hot up your
motor, there are several little things
that you can do to it that will almost
certainly make it last longer, and
improve its efficiency at the same
time. We are mainly concerned with
the many different types of Mabuchi
here, but most of the mods can be
applied equally easily and effectively
to any similar motor, and this includes
the Cox range, the various
Riko motors, in fact, most can type
motors.
Let's start with the end boll. You
could call this job disaster-proofing.
The main trouble here is the fact that
a standard end bell found on most
motors has a rather low heat resistance.
It is a constant source of
surprise to us that each new motor
that comes from Japan appears to
have an end bell made from this
same plastic material. Surely, it
47

would not be beyond their capabilities
for the various manufacturers to
come up with something rather
better than this.
To enable the motor to run
cooler, you can drill a hole top and
bottom of most end bells. Apart
from letting the whole set-up run
rather cooler, this enables you to see
what is happening in there! It is
perhaps easiest to drill these holes
with the motor assembled, but
without the armature and brush
gear. This means that you are less
liable to damage anything while
drilling. A centrepunch mark will
ensure that the hole is exactly
where you want it to be. Use a suitably
sized drill, you should be able
to see what you can get away with
by looking at the end bell. Threesixteenths
is a popular one. Don't
rush the job, as you can easily distort
the end bell if you drill too fast.
As soon as the point of the drill
breaks through, stop drilling, and
finish the job off as neatly as you
can with a sharp knife. Remove any
rough edges from the inside of the
end bell at the same time. Those little
bits of nylon that the drill has left
around the edges of the hole may
one day drop into the brush gear,
possibly with disastrous results. Do
not drill too close to the holes already
in the end bell that are intended
for the mounting screws.
This mod can be made on any
Mabuchi or similar motor.
Now let's take a look at the brush
gears. Take the whole assembly to
pieces, noting how all the various
bits and pieces fit. Now remove any
rough edges from the heat sinks, so
that the brushes can slide freely in
them. Then note which surfaces of
the heat sink and the thing that
holds it in place, touch. These are to
be soldered together, but first, for
the best possible joint, carefully file
the plate from the areas you are
48
going to solder to. Then apply a
little flux, and as lightly as you can
tin the areas of the heat sink and its
retainer that contact each other. If
you get any blobs of solder, you
must file them down so that the
parts will fit back together again in
their original positions. If you can,
re-bend the retainer so that it fits
around the heat sink closer than
before. You should be able to see
what is meant here. If you do the job
right, you will be able to solder one
complete side of the heat sink to the
retainer, and this makes a much
better joint than the edge to edge
set-up you will have if you don't do
this. When you have reassembled the
end bell, make sure as far as you can
that all the parts are aligned correctly.
Sight through the heat sinks to see
if they line up. If everything is in the
correct position, then you can solder
it all up. Get a small blob of solder
on the tip of your iron, apply a little
flux to the parts to be joined, and
working as fast as you can, solder
the heat sink to its retainer. This
must be done before the end bell
has a chance to melt, and if you do
not get the thing right the first time,
let it cool off before you try again.
Wo have always used an acid-type
flux for this type of work, and while
it is advisable to wash everything
to remove any excess, we have
omitted to do this on occasions, and
have never had any trouble with
corroded joints.
When you have done this job, the
end bell will stand a lot more heat
than it ever would before. The
temperature at which the solder
w ill melt is not likely to be reached in
normal use, while you all know how
easy it is to melt a standard end bell.
Also, electrical efficiency is much
improved.
While we are at this end of the
motor, just look at that bearing in the
end bell. It doesn't contact the shaft

all along its length, as it's really
tapered. It isn't an easy job by any
means to replace this, but if you
leave it as it is, you ought not to take
the drive from that end of the motor,
as it isn't a load-carrying bearing at
all. Really, it's only intended to
locate the armature shaft, since the
way the motor is designed, the
drive comes out of the other end.
Why can't they fit a better bearing
and use a double-ended shaft ?
However, we can easily improve
matters at the other end. If you have
a motor with one of those dreadful
so-called ball bearings in the case,
there really isn't too much you can
do, but that bearing is really a joke,
and totally unsuitable for any kind of
high-performance motor. Even the
best ball bearings you can get hold
of are not good enough. If a motor
turns at anything much over 45,000
r.p.m., and most of them do these
days, then there are no ball bearings
made that arc good enough that
you could get hold of. You would
need bearings of the kind of quality
used in spacecraft to show any
improvement over a good quality
oilite.
8ut back to standard motors. If
yours has one of those spherical
bearings, it's best to solder it into
the case. To do this, first remove it,
together with the felt washer that
fits behind it. Clean the whole
assembly as well as you can, reinsert
the bearing, and rcbend the
fingers to hold it firmly. Then, using
an old end bell armature, assemble
the motor to set the bearing in position.
Remove them, and apply flux
to the bearing. Then, taking care not
to move the bearing, solder it to the
case. Refit the armature and end
bell to check the alignment. If the
armature does not turn freely, you
will have to resolder it.
The rear bearing in Hemi's has a
tendency to work loose, so this
should be soldered to the case as
well, to be on the safe side.
It is always a good idea to hold
the case and end bell together with
two or more small screws, as those
tabs on the can are none too strong
and always break off sooner or
later.
Almost any motor will benefit
from a good balancing job. Any time
that you do balance a motor, you
simply must epoxy the windings
first. If you don't do this, the motor
will not stay in balance. The w indings
should be epoxied anyway,
whether you are going to balance or
not. It isn't a bad idea to tie the wires
behind the commutator before you
epoxy the windings. Use Araldite to
epoxy, but do get the armature good
and hot so that the stuff will flow
right down into the windings, but
don't use more Araldite than you
need to hold all the windings in
place.
49

ewinding
John Veasey
The heart of an electric motor is
the armature. It is this more than
anything else that controls the
amount of power that we can get
from the motor. The power developed
by the armature depends
mainly, on the resistance of the wire
wound on it. To increase the performance
of the armature we have
to reduce the resistance of the wire..
This can be achieved by reducing
the length of the wire, dewinding,
or by increasing the size, rewinding.
By reducing the resistance we
increase the amperage, which in
turn increases the watts, which is
power, the thing we want.
We a r; going to rewind.
Before going any further we must
select the motor we are going to
work with. The obvious, and the
best choice is the medium size
Mabuchi and similar types.
These motors respond well to rewinding
whereas most other types
of motor are not easily improved.
Motors like the M.R.R.C. 3 pole or
the 196B Pittman are already tuned
near to the limit of their potential
power.
One of the advantages that the
can type motors have is their magnets.
Due to their design they are
much more efficient. They are easily
removed and charged and are unaffected,
to any noticeable degree,
by the removal of the armature.
As all magnets vary quite a lot it
would be as well to havo a brief
rundown on those available, and
here, I hope I don't run into Rob's
territory too much. The colours
shown in brackets are the code colours
on the end of the magnets.
The current FT 16D (Fireball,
etc.) has quite good magnets (light
blue and white), suitable for most
1/32 scale racing. The older FT 16
magnets (dark blue and white) are
better but are in a rather thin case
which doesn't help.
The Rikochet Mk.l magnets are
among the strongest. These are the
same as French magnets. (Yellow
and green or red and white).
Also very good are those in the
Rikoflash Mk.l (red and white).
The Mk.ll versions of both the
Rikochet and the Rikoflash have
very poor magnets which should be
discarded.
The Cox Nascar's (light brown
and dark brown) are similar to the
old FT 16 but feel better because of
a better case and armature.
The F.P. 70 magnets (black and
white) are also similar to the FT 16
but are helped by a very good, thick
case.
The best of the standard magnets
are probably those in the new ball -
race Mabuchi. These are the same
as those sold separately as Dyna
Juniors. They do not feel particularly
strong but this is not necessarily a
good indication of a magnet's
50

efficiency.
In addition to these we have the
extra magnets sold separately. These
include Arco 33's, Magnum 44's
and 88's, Dyna 5 and 9's and others.
These fall into two classes, known
as Indox 3 and 5. The Dyna 9's and
the Magnum 44's are Indox 3. The
others listed are slightly stronger
and are Indox 5.
All magnets can be improved by
shimming. This should be done
with steel shim and not paper or
tape as I have seen done. This has an
adverse effect.
The flux density of a magnetic
field varies by the square of the air
gap. That is to say that halving the
air gap will double the flux density,
so it is obviously desirable to shim
them. Don't expect them to feel
twice as good though.
The shim also increases the
'capacity' of the case, preventing
'leakage' and thereby keeping the
magnetism in the case where it is
needed. With this in mind, and also
to improve flow between the magnets,
you should put a shim across
one side of the case. Don't worry
about closing tho hole, it won't
make it run any hotter. Contrary to
general belief, Mabuchi magnets
can be remagnetized. If you can find
a good re-magnetizer, 20,000 +
ampere turns, it is well worth while.
You have now to decide how
many turns and what size wire you
are going to use. This depends on
the power supply, type of track and
the scale you are racing. The accompanying
chart gives suggested
winds to suit various magnets. The
beginner is strongly advised to keep
the number of turns within those
recommended. The hotter you wind
a motor with a particular set of magnets
the more revs you get but you
reduce torque and braking proportionally.
If you now fit stronger
magnets you will get fewer revs but
you get back torque and brakes and
much more power. Therefore you
must have winds to suit various
magnets.
For the average club track with
battery power any of the winds from
31 s.w.g. to 35 s.w.g. should be
suitable, for 1/32nd scale. Which
one depends on the track and you.
Remember the 33 s.w.g. wind
would have better brakes and torque
than a 31 s.w.g. with similar magnets,
but the latter would be quicker
on a straight. If you have a low amp
power pack try a 35 or 36 s.w.g.
wind.
Before you start to wind you
should check the commutator and
the shaft. The motor shaft must be
perfectly true.If it is not change it for
a piece of 5/64 in silver steel or even
better, a drill blank. These should be
fixed with Aralditc before you wind.
Grind a few flats on the shaft for the
Araldite to key to.
If the commutator is worn or
damaged, replace it. Don't use the
old type white nylon commutators
at all. If you can afford it fit a blowproof.
They are not cheap but they
are worth it, if only for the peace of
mind. If not, whip two or three
turns of nylon thread around the
com at the tab end, and then when
you come to pot the armature later,
cover this lightly with Araldite.
Now stick the commutator in place
with the timing set as required.
Most standard motors are timed
at 0 deg., that is with the commutator
slot in the centre of the pole.
If you increase the timing you increase
the revs in the direction you
have advanced. The more you advance
the greater the increase in
revs until you reach the limit which
is theoretically 2 2 i deg.
So why not advance to 22 J deg. ?
Unfortunately along with the in ­
crease in revs goes a loss of torque
and E.M.F. Torque you will under-
51

COMMU TATOR AO V A N C E
(C L O C K W IS E )
stand but what is E.M.F. ? This is
Electro Motive Force. To simplify it,
it is the motor's ability to generate.
It is the generated voltage that,
when shorted out by the brake contact
in the controller, causes the car
to brake The amount of advance
used depends a lot on the magnets
to be used. The stronger the magnets
the more advance. When using
standard 16D magnets I like to have
just 2 or 3 deg. advance. This is just
sufficient to ensure the quickest
direction of rotation but not enough
to have a detrimental effect on
brakes, etc.
With Arco's you should use 10-
15 deg. If you want to go any further
you must remember that you are
generating extra heat and this "is
already a problem. You must also
remember that a static balance,
which is all we can do, cannot cope
with too many revs. Does it matter
which way you advance ? This is a
controversial point. It is generally
accepted that if you wind on to the
pole in an anti-clockwise direction
you should advance clockwise and
vice-versa. However, I have had
equally good results timing the other
way. One American company has
changed the direction of its wind
but has not changed the advance.
Another is about to change the
direction of advance but I bet they
won't wind the other way.
W in d in g s h o u ld n 't n e e d m u c h
explanation. It is simply a case of
connecting the wire to the commutator,
winding the required number
of turns and then connecting
the wire to the next tab on the commutator,
and so on. There are a few
points to watch. Be careful and
don't rush it. Wind as neatly as
possible, keeping the wires parallel
so that they pack in better. If you
wind untidily you won't get all the
wire on. Don't pull the wire too
tight as it is easy to stretch it and
reduce the diameter. You only have
to do this at one point to alter the
resistance of the whole length of
the wire. Occasionally pack the
wire in with a piece of soft wood.
The beginner may find it difficult
to get the recommended number of
turns on. It is possible to get a lot
more than this on so it is just a case
of careful, firm winding. When you
solder the wire to the commutator
tabs always use a heat sink. By this
I mean an aluminium one of the
X-Acto type. If you haven't one of
these an aluminium hair clip is
quite good. Don't use a piece of
copper wire wrapped round the
com.
If you are using a self fluxing
wire you will have to use a very hot
iron, and quickly. If the wire is not
of this type be careful to scrape off
all the insulation. One little bit left
on can ruin the solder joint. You
should now tie two or three turns
of thread around the wires you have
just soldered. This is to prevent
them being thrown off at high revs.
Before applying the Araldite to
'pot' the armature, heat it, the
armature, under a low grill or over
a high wattage bulb. When it is hot
enough the Araldite will go clear
and runny as soon as it touches the
armature. When you have found the
right temperature work quickly and
apply a thin layer over all the wires.
Keep it away from the poles and the
52

commutator, except where you have
whipped it. Now warm it again to
set it. If the epoxy is not applied
in this way it will just form a skin
over the wire which is just as likely
to throw off as the wire.
If you whipped the commutator,
when the Araldite has set, put the
armature in a lathe or drill chuck and
with a fine round file, turn down the
surplus Araldite around the thread.
Then polish the cam with the finest
emery paper you can find.
The armature should now be ready
to balance. It has been said that you
should not statically balance an
armature as this puts it further out of
dynamic balance. Theoretically this
may be true but in practice it is not.
A good static balance must be better
than nothing at all. This is proven if
you assemble the motor and listen
to the revs and if possible note the
amps drawn before and after
balancing. An armature wound with
70 turns of 34 s.w.g. may draw up
to 1.5 amps or more before balancing.
After balancing it should draw
about 0.5 amps or less.
To do our static balance we need
two new razor baldes. These are not
really ideal for the job as the edge is
very easily damaged but they are
cheap and readily available. They
should be held upright with pieces
of plasticine or by sticking to a
piece of wood. The two edges must
be parallel and perfectly horizontal.
They must be spaced so that they
bear on perfectly true sections of the
shaft, not where the gear has been.
If the shaft is damaged or not quite
straight or the blades are anything
but perfect, you cannot get a good
balance.
Carefully place the armature on
the blades and when it comes to rest
mark the heaviest pole, the one at
the bottom. Now check this by
turning the armature round and
balancing it on a different part of the
53
blades. When you are satisfied remove
some weight from this point
with a drill or file, but only a little,
then balance it again. Repeat this
until the armature no longer wants
to come to rest in ono position and
doesn't 'rock' on the blades.
Some people prefer to balance by
adding weight. This is done with
Araldite and fine pieces of lead. This
method has the advantage that the
armature is not damaged in any
way, but it is rather difficult. If not
done properly the weighted Araldite
tends to be thrown off at high revs.
Having completed the armature it
has to be assembled in the case. This
must be done carefully or you will
not get the full-benefit of the rewind.
Remember the three main enemies
are vibration, friction and heat.
Most of the vibration should be
cured by the balancing.
All bearings must be in perfect
condition and well oiled, but not too
much. The self centering bearing in
the 16D case should be fixed with
Araldite or solder. If this is not done
it tends to turn in the claws and
cause vibration. A lot of heat is
caused by vibration and friction.
With these reduced to a minimum
we are left with the heat generated
by the armature and by the brushes
arcing. Not much can be done about
that generated by the armature
except to keep it to a minimum by
having the most suitable wind for
the conditions, and to ensure that
the bearings are good. Most of the
armature heat is conducted through
the bearings to the case.
The arcing of the brushes can be
cured by carefully truing the commutator
and polishing it. Then running
the brushes in for as long a
period as possible on low voltage.
Extra strong brush pressure will not
cure arcing although it will reduce
it. If you are using standard springs
you should open them out to in-

crease the pressure. If you have extra
strong springs such as Dyna or
Taylor's, don't open them out as
these are quite strong enough. It is
possible to have too much pressure.
The FT 16D end bell is quite good
enough for most winds, the only
important modification needed being
to solder the heat sink to its
clamp.
The old type end bell, without
heat sinks, is useless for all but the
mildest rewinds. It can be converted
to M R R C type brush gear but this
will only work with winds up to
about 34 s.w.g. Above this the
brushes tend to become unsoldered
from the arms
If your first rewind doesn't work,
don't give up. Remember 'If at first
you don't succeed . . . ' When you
have done a few successfully you
may like to try something different.
There are many forms of winding.
The common way is the series wind.
Of all the other methods the only
two worth considering at this stage
are the double and the star winds.
The double wind is wound the
same way as a series wind but you
wind two wires together. Electrically
this is equivalent to a wind
three sizes up from that used, i.e.
double 34 is equal to single 31.
The advantages are that it can be
easier to pack two thin wires than
one thicker wire, and they tend to
run cooler.
The star wind is very useful ‘or
low amp tracks. With this wind one
end of the wire is fixed to the commutator
tab. The required number
of turns is then wound and the end
of the wire is left free at the opposite
end to the com. This is repeated for
each pole. You should now have
three ends. Join these together and
tuck them away neatly, being careful
they don't short on to anything.
With this wind you can use a largor
size wire than you would normally
use. You can time it either way.
This article has been based on the
'Medium' Mabuchi's, but most of it
holds true for the smaller 13 UO and
the larger 26D. The 13 UO has very
thin and weak magnets and w ill not
therefore accept a hot wind. 75 of
34 s.w.g. is about the hottest you
could go with this motor
The standard wind for the 26D
is about 70 turns of 30 B & S
(equivalent to 33 s.w.g.); I say
'about' because they vary a lot
which accounts for the difference in
performance of some of these. The
obvious thing to do is wind with
larger size wire but the 26D is very
good on small, low amp tracks if
rewound milder than standard, say
75 to 80 turns of 34 s.w.g.
Before some 'Dim bulb from
Sleaford' (to quote a colleague)
picks me up on certain points let me
say that what I have written is
gained from the experience of w inding
a lot of motors over the past few
years. Miniature electric motors
seem to have their own set of rules
which are often contrary to general
practice. There is often no right way
or wrong way, just a compromise.
I might be wrong - but then so
might you.
R e c o m ­
N o . m e n d e d
W ire Size Turns M a g n e ts
36 s.w.g. (0.0076) 90-110 Standard
35 s.w.g. (0.0084) 80-95 Standard
34 s w.g. (0.0092) 70 80 Standard
Rikochot
Oyna Jr.
33 s.w.g. (0.010) 65-75 Standard
Rikochot
Oyna Jr.
32 s.w.g. (0.0108) 60-70 Rikochot
Oyna Jr.
9s & 44s
31 s.w.g. (0.0116) 55-65 Oyna Jr.
9s 8i 5s,
Areos 44s
& 88s
30 s.w.g. (0.0124) 50-55 Arcos,
Dyna 5s 8t
9s, 44s &
88s
54

choice
of gears
To a surprisingly large extent, gear
ratios are a matter for personal
preference, more so, in fact, than
you might imagine at first glance.
Most people do have their own
ideas on the subject, but the follow ­
ing may be useful to beginners, and
may even make a few others think a
little about what they are doing.
One thing that we'd better establish
right from the start is exactly
what we mean by a high or low gear
ratio. A high ratio is a high numerical
one, and a low one is a low numerical
one, such as two to one. Some
people talk about a high ratio, and
really mean the exact opposite. In
one way they are, in fact, perfectly
correct, but most people understand
the first way, so that's the way
we'll do it.
Too high a ratio will give fierce
acceleration and braking probably
with not too high a top speed. Too
low a ratio gives a slow build-up to
a high top speed, but as the acceleration
suffers, so does the braking.
The correct gear ratio lies, of course,
somewhere between these tw o extremesbutforany
given combination
of track and car, the same ratio may
not be the best one for different
drivers, by which I mean that a lot
of drivers actually prefer a ratio which
may not, theoretically, be the ideal
one for the track
What you need is not necessarily
the gearing that enables the car to
lap the fastest, but the one that
enables the driver to drive the car
fastest
Some people like their cars to
drag out of each corner as if the
world were ending, and come to a
wheel-locking stop at the end of
each straight. If you can control this
kind of action, this is probably the
quickest way around the track.
However, not too many drivers have
the talent and split second timing
necessary for this, and most people
prefer that their cars be rather easier
to drive, and make no mistake, it
really is hard to drive that kind of
car on the limit. At the moment we
are concerned mainlyjwith driving on
fairly twisty tracks, the kind most
clubs have, not the commercial
raceways, since these are a very
different proposition.
Some clubs allow the use of tyre
dressings of various kinds. To
others, the rest of the world is out of
step, 3nd they continue to slither
around on their expanses of dry
Sandtex. If you use tyre slush, you
can go to much more violent gearing
than you could, if your club banned
55

the stuff, you simply must use lower
gear ratios, as if you don't you'll almost
certainly be slithering around
all over the place.
So you see, you can, to a large
extent, tame a hairy car by changing
the gearing to a lower ratio. You
can do this either by fitting a larger
pinion, or alternatively, a smaller
contrate, or spur gear if you are
running an anglewinder. Really, it's
a more efficient solution to fit the
larger pinion, as six and seven tooth
pinions are much less efficient than,
say, an eight or nine tooth one. Also
fitting a larger pinion will cut down
gear wear. When you build a car,
it's best to set it up around the
largest gear that will still give you
adequate ground clearance when
used with the smallest tyres that you
can legally fit.
If you are not a very good driver,
be honest here, you may find it
helpful to fit a ratio that is strictly
speaking too low, and by doing this,
although the car may be down on
acceleration and braking, you may
well find that you can keep the
little brute on the track much better
than you could before. At any rate
this is worth a try.
Car weight is an important factor
to consider, too. If you overdo things
by fitting a ratio that is so low as to
overload the motor, you can easily
burn this out. This shouldn't worry
you too much unless you are racing
for long periods at a time, over halfan-hour,
say. If you habitually burn
motors out in less time than this,
then you must be doing something
very wrong indeed, even if it's only
buying your motors from the wrong
manufacturer!
If your cars are heavy, you will,
of course, need a higher ratio to get
the things moving fast enough. In a
case like this the extra weight will
improve traction for acceleration and
braking. If your cars slew sideways
56
on braking, the trouble is not, as
some people will tell you, that your
chassis is out of line, or unequal
weight distribution. There isn't
space to explain this fully here, but
up to a point you can add weight
and actually improve the braking.
The reason for this is simple. To
quite a large extent, braking is
dependent on traction, as is accelera -
tion. If the car is slewing on braking,
the car's tyres are not gripping the
track, and though the car may appear
to be stopping quickly, you are
really not stopping as quickly as you
could if the car were heavier.
From all this, you can see that in
general, light cars tend to go best on
low gearing, while heavy cars need
higher ratios.
High ratios tend to be inefficient
in that the larger gear absorbs more
energy than smaller ones do. If you
are fond of really high ratios, such
as five, or even six, to one, you may
be affecting little other than the
car's top speed, since these ratios
can easily absorb so much power as
to make any extra acceleration so
slight as to be almost unnoticeable.
I think, to be quite honest, that our
cars are a whole lot less sensitive to
changes of gear ratio than most
people seem to think, and I normally
build my cars around a ratio of
3£ or 4 to one, and leave them there.
Very rarely is it necessary to alter
ratios. This though is for hot 16D
rewinds in 32nd scale racing.
24th scale cars are a different
proposition entirely. Here you may
have to use much higher ratios than
for 32nd cars to get the best performance.
Normally, we can forget
any limitations as far as traction is
concerned, and at the top level at any
rate, you certainly shouldn't be too
worried how easy to drive your
cars are. The main reason that
higher gear ratios are needed for
24th cars, is that most of the motors

57
in common use are very high
revving indeed, and they have to be
geared at least four to one in most
cases for best results. Bear in mind
however that 24th cars often run on
larger tyres than 32nd ones do, and
the higher gear ratio is partly to compensate
for this. Of course, if you
are building a model in 32nd scale
of an older car with largo rear wheels,
you must use a higher ratio than you
would for the same motor in a
modern car with smaller tyres.
One disadvantage of the high
ratios necessary in 24th cars, is the
fact that the larger contrates needed
are none too strong. When you put
the power of a Mura, Champion or
Dyna motor through a plastic contrate,
unless the mesh is well nigh
perfect and the entire rear end of the
car is strong enough to remain completely
rigid at all times, then the
gears will chew themselves up
pretty rapidly. This also applies to
the steel Taylormade gears, since on
these gears the teeth are very fine
indeed, and the slightest bit of mismeshing
will screw them up just as
fast as any of the plastic ones, maybe
even faster.
As far as anglewinders are concerned,
gear strength is not really a
problem, as there is no sideways
force as with inline gears.
Spur gears are the most efficient
by far, and this is probably the
anglewinder's biggest advantage.
Next best for inlines as far as efficiency
is concerned are brass bevels.
When set up properly, these will last
more or less for ever, and if you race
at a club which is not interested in
all-out competition, or if you race on
a track in your own home, bevels
may be your best bet. Their main
disadvantage is that they make it
rather difficult to change ratios,
since they must be run in each time
this is done. However, for motors
like the M.R.R.C. three- and fivepoles,
and the Pittman range, these
are the most suitable. Pittmans aro
funny things to gear, as they can
sometimes be made to go on anything
from 2 i to 4 to 1. You'll just
have to experiment, but 3 i is often
best.
The M.R.R.C. motors on the other
hand rarely need anything as high.
Five poles may need this, even three
poles sometimes, but if you doublepole
these motors, you might have to
go to two to one in order to get the
best results. Normally, five poles
require a higher gear ratio than three
poles. Any similar motor will probably
need a similar ratio. If, on the
other hand, you are using something
like an old Mk. 4 Scalex, you will
need around four to one, as this
motor has much less power. The
same applies to such motors as the
V.I.P. open frame motors, Ks, etc.
I have often thought that many
cars sold ready to run, either for
competition or home set use, often
have most unsuitable gearing. Usually
a change to a higher ratio than
the one that the manufacturers, in
their wisdom, have provided, is a
good thing. You might think that the
manufacturer would know best, but
this is rarely true. Some motors are
supplied with various gear ratios
suggested for various purposes, and
these are often quite laughable.
As you might have gathered, it
really isn't possible to make any
hard and fast recommendations on
gear ratios, since people's preference,
size and type of track, type of
motor, and even how good an example
of its kind the motor is, all
enter into things. However, if you
have understood any of this, you
should have a better idea of the
effects of changing gearing, and
perhaps in future you will have an
easier time making up your mind
when it comes to building and
sorting out that new car.

APPENDIX I
WIRE EQUIVALENTS AND CROSS SECTIONS
These metric equivalents of standard wire gauge sizes, expressed both as diameters and cross sectional
areas in millimetres and inches should be of assistance to the more mathematically minded rewinders
amongst us.
Wire diameter Wire cross-sectional I Wire diameter Wire cross-sectional
SWG sheet thickness area SWG sheet thickness area
07CM o o to to CM 07 r— CO T— COoo r-*
OJ 00 CM 00 CM COo CO CM 00 07o cmto
07CO CO o COCO T— 0700 COto LO Tt CO
£ LO CO CM CM CM r — T— t— o o o o o o o
£ o O o o o o o o o o o o o o o
r * COto to
to T— CM 00 to ^r—00 COto
to 00 r - to r— r* CM o o> COto
00 CO-C* 00 CO CM CM T— ^— o o
« o o -C 8 o 3 3 3 3 8
8 8
o o 07o o o o o o o o
••»» o o d o o o o o o o d o o o o
CO o 07 00 CO to to to COCO
• T — T— to O to CO to COt—
£ 00 co to LO COCOCO CM CM CM CM CM
£ d d d o d d d d o d d d d o d
CM 0 0 CM O 0 0 CO 0 0 CO CO 0 0
CO CM
o CO CM CM CM CM t — t— * — T— *—
O O O O 88
s o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
CM TJ-
CO 0 0
o T— CM CO t o CO 0 0 07 o CM CO t o
CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CO CO CO CO CO CO
o CO COCM CM 00 COto 1— 00 o 00 CO
CO CO CM CM T— r - CM to 00 o COCM o 00 to to Vf
•c 00 to v t CO CM CM O o CO to O 00 CO CM f"* CM 07
CM CM 8 07 00 r - to to t o co CO CM
E CM cq q 00 CO 00 o CO CM 07 CO cq o co
£ 00 CO to to CO CO CM CM CM* CM
o CO CM CM CM CM CO o •

A P P ENDIX II
U.S. W IRE GAUGES
Gauge Diameter Gauge Diameter
Number in inches Number in inches
28 .01264 33 .007080
29 .01126 34 .006305
30 .01030 35 .005615
31 .008928 36 .005000
32 .007950
APPENDIX III
TV INTERFERENCE
Inherent in all electric motors is unfortunately 'noise' or interference. We
are often asked for ways of curing this and make no apologies for publishing
the details again here for those who may not already know.
Whenever a spark from a motor is generated, radio waves are produced,
and it is these that can cause interference mainly to televisions over a radius
of perhaps some 50 yards. Sparks produced at the brushes of a motor are
not too serious and a simple cure for these is to solder a 1 amp suppressor
in the negative lead between the pick-up and the brush. It is the sparks
produced by the wipers rubbing on the pick-up tapes that cause the real
bother.
Although the severity of interference varies from place to place (and
weather conditions play a part here), in most cases a .1 mfd condenser
wired across the track's pick-up tapes will smooth out the current and so
reduce sparking to a much lower level. A single condenser across each lane
may affect a total cure but, where interference is persistent, it may be necessary
to repeat the remedy every 15 ft. or so.
If, after all this you are still getting black looks from neighbours, then by
far the best thing to do is to get in touch with your local G.P.O. officials who
are generally very willing to help in emergencies of this nature - anyway,
it's better for you to get them round rather than a complaining Mrs. Higginbottom
from number 29!
59

A P P ENDIX IV
USEFUL ADDRESSES
The A sso cia tio n o f Raceway Centres, Secretary, Peter Warr, Grand
Prix Model Raceways Ltd., Dein's Building, 2 Coal Wharf Road, London,
W.12.
The E lectric Car Racing A sso cia tio n , 28 Bolton Street, Piccadilly,
London, W.1.
P rom inent S lo t Clubs
C am slot, Secretary, G. Leadbeater, 116 Lovell Road, Cambridge.
Hazle Park M .C.C., Secretary, D. J. Findlow, 135 Acre Lane, Cheadlehulme,
Cheadle, Cheshire.
S to c k p o rt & D is tric t M .C.C., Secretary, W. H. Jackson, 11 Henberry
Street, Stepping Hill, Stockport, Cheshire.
Sale M .C.C., Secretary, G. D. Barnes, 61 Clough Avenue, Woodheys, Sale,
Cheshire.
A in tre e M .R.C.C., Secretary, L. Cranshaw, Chalton House, Nigel Road,
Heswall Hill, Barnesworth, Wirral, Cheshire.
H ornchurch M .R.C.C., Secretary, K. Holmes, 79 St. Ann's Road, Barking,
Essex.
Estuary Equipe, Secretary, R. Chapman, 36 Homestead Gardens, Haddley,
Essex.
N orth London, Secretary, T. Pinnock, 16 Atheneum Road, N.20.
Ragged Edge, Secretary, R. Netherwood, 13 Abbots Crescent, St. Ives,
Hunts.
A ylcsfo rd , Secretary, V. J. Warner, Aylesford Paper Mills, Larkfield, Maidstone.
B olton M .C.R.C., Secretary, C. Warburton, 84 Gilnow Road, Bolton,
Lancs.
A shton M .C .R .C ., Secretary, E. Johnson, 24 Stanley Street, Higher
Openshaw, M/E.11.
A.R.R.A., Secretary, T. Nelson, 33 Norwood Crescent, Southport, Lancs.
30's Club, Secretary, K. G. Halsey, 20 Inderwick Road, Hornsey, London,
N.8.
N orth London S ociety o f M .E., Secretary, W. Hancock, 34 Balfont
Grove, London, 20.
Taverners M .C.C., Secretary, B. Hoyle, 99 Woodlands Avenue, London,
E.11.
Runnymede M .R.C.C., Secretary, V. Jeynes, 28 Stainash Crescent,
Staines, Middlesex.
N ordic Park, Secretary, R. Nicholles, 26 High Street, Southall, Middlesex.
Ecurie Spa, Secretary, T. Tennant, 7 The Parade, Leamington Spa,
Warwickshire.
Clyde M .C.C., Secretary, F. Craig, 12 Henrietta Street, Glasgow, W.4.
60

G - S L E E P . L T D . — f o r e n g in e s
22/24 KING'S ROAD, READING Tel: Reading 50074
MABUCHI 13UO ............................ 10/6
MABUCHI FT 16 ............................ 10/6
MABUCHI FT 16D ............................ 12/3
REVELL FIREBALL ............................ 12/11
REVELL WILD O N E ............................ £1.7.6
K's S.T.V................................................. £1.4.6
RIKOCHET ........................................ 12/11
THUNDERBOLT ............................ 14/11
RIKOBOMB ........................................ £1.3.9
RIKOFLASH ........................................ £1.5.0
RIKOSTREAK ............................ £1.5.0
RIKOCHET Mk. II ............................ £1.9.11
RIKOSTREAK Mk. I I ............................ £1.7.6
16D R E W IN D ........................................ 2 1 /-
DYNA SILVER SPRINT ............... 37/6
Special to SLEEP'S: 1/32 scale Rule 2/6
Ball Races J" external, * " internal ... 5 /-
Please add 2 /6 for orders under £1
MRD SILVER PLATED CASE WITH MAGNETS 5 /-
REWINDS 16D or 26D (on
REWINDING WIRE
your own armature 10/- SELF FLUXING
SILVER PLATED REWOUND 38-28 S.W.G. per reel 3 / -
16D ARMATURES ...
16D MOTOR SPARES
17/6 33-27 B & SG (American) 3 /—
SILVER PLATED COPPER
A R M A T U R E ............... 3/6 WIRE AVAILABLE SHORTLY
COMMUTATOR 2/6 POST AND PACKING — 1/6
BRUSHES AND SPRINGS 2 /6 OVER £3 FREE
TRADE ENQUIRIES WELCOME
MAIL ORDER TO:
S im tra c k Engineering
22 HAMLET COURT ROAD
WESTCLIFF-ON-SEA, ESSEX
Telephone: SOUTHEND 46192
Ltd.
61

T ottenham M odel R aceways ltd.
367-369 HIGH ROAD, TOTTENHAM, LONDON, N.17. 01-808 5668
OFFER ALL TYPES OF MOTORS
DYNA REWIND (M ain Agent)
COBRA
CERTUS
PHAZE III
COX MOTORS
SLOTWARE MOTORS
RIKO MOTORS
TAYLOR TUNED
AIRFIX MOTORS
MABUCHI MOTORS
AND ALL THE LATEST STOCK FOR SLOT CARS : STATICS :
HOME SETS ETC. FOR FURTHER DETAILS SEE OUR ADS.
IN MODEL CARS OR PHONE US.
look k
lo w
prices
r
MOTORS
Lcnz "500 Boss" 110/-
Lonz "600 Boss" 125/-
Mura M444 ... 144/-
Mura M444C 188/-
Champion 517 115/-
Champion 615 115/-
Vorsitcc SS101 9 0 /-
Vorsitoc SS91 140/-
Oyna 160 Sprint 9 0 /-
Dyna 160 Sprint Hi Rev 100/-
Dyna 16D Sprint Hi Torquo 100/-
Oyna 1.3 Enduro 8 8 /-
Oyna 1.3 Sprint 7 2 /-
Rovoll Wild I 24/6
DC 196B 45/6
OC 6001 45/6
Russkit 23 ... 30/9
Russkit 27 ... 3 6 /-
Taylor/T 16D 40/6
Taylor/T 260 40/6
Australian and New Zealand orders welcome.
Send S.A.E. and 1 /- for full Spares List.
THE MODEL SHOP (Guernsey)
No. 1 COMMERCIAL ARCADE, GUERNSEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS
62

HEARD THE LATEST ?...
'A very fine and flexible engine' 'Ideal for
the average w inding du b d rcu it' 'W on four out
o f four heats' 'very impressive' 'extreme
tractabi/ity' 'b y far the best' 'Its performance
is really exceptional' 'M y successes with
this m otor have been fantastic' 'A W inner' 'A
good performance by any standard' 'goes
like a bomb on our n ew circuit' 'Please send
me another as soon as possible' 'covered
itself w ith glory' 'the fastest so fa r' 'I w ould
not use any other motor'
... ABOUT THE
Available from your retailer or, in case of difficulty, direct at
ONLY 19/- each (postage and packing free) from:
M .A .M .A. EASTERN Ltd.
TRAFALGAR HOUSE, 11 WATERLOO PLACE
LONDON, S.W.1
where th e original custom ers' loftora from which the above quotations ware tefcon may bo
Inspected.
63

IWARNING1
Do NO T run these motors at full voltage without load