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Model<br />
Cars Bok3<br />
MOTOR<br />
TUNING<br />
the complete story<br />
U A f K PRESENTED FREE<br />
WITH THE FEBRUARY 1970 ISSU E OF M O DEL C A R S
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3
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4
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5
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6
Model Cars<br />
MOTOR<br />
TUNING B ook 3<br />
• 1 9 6 9 /7 0<br />
Prepared by<br />
Dan Glimne<br />
for Mode! Cars<br />
readers<br />
C o n te n ts<br />
15. Winding<br />
16. Pointers<br />
17. Epoxying<br />
18. Balancing (static)<br />
19. Balancing (dynamic)<br />
20. Endbell<br />
21. Brushes and Springs<br />
22. Assembly<br />
23. Service<br />
Concluding a three part series<br />
8<br />
14<br />
15<br />
17<br />
19<br />
21<br />
22<br />
24<br />
25<br />
Model & Allied Publications Ltd.<br />
13/35 Bridge Street Hemel Hempstead, Herts.<br />
Publishers of<br />
Aeromodeller, Model Boats, Model Cars, Model Engineer, Model<br />
Railway News. Meccano Magazine. Radio Control Models & Electronics,<br />
Scale Models. Plans, Technical <strong>Book</strong>s, etc.<br />
7
R ig h t, w hich arm h a s been<br />
sim u lta n e o u sly w o u n d ! Y es, the<br />
one o n the right. N o te that<br />
o n the oth e r a rm , the tu rn s<br />
o n the last-w ound pole has<br />
flow ed out o n the o thers - not<br />
good f o r the balance and<br />
perform ance.<br />
Y o u ca n learn a lot b y analyzing your blow n arm s. T h is M u ra 007 (far left) w a s<br />
cut off right in the m iddle to check the w ire laying. Note that sp ace h a s not<br />
really been u se d - the w ire h a s not gone o n in neat layers. The a rm ? Shortcircuit<br />
d uring a 24-hour due to in su lation bre akdow n of the Poly-Therm alex.<br />
Centre, the difference betw een a h a n d w ou n d arm (on left) and a m achine-w ound<br />
arm. Note that the h and-w o u n d w ire h a s gone on in a not very neat fashion,<br />
resulting in three b ig h ole s n e ce ssa ry for b a la n c in g it.<br />
15 winding<br />
Learning to wind competitively will take time and lots of practise.<br />
Therefore, I suggest that you get any old armature you can lay your<br />
hands on, buy a couple of miles of cheap winding wire and start<br />
practising until you feel that you have really mastered the art. Experiment<br />
with wires thick and thin, single, double and triple, put on<br />
old Mabuchi coms and try the results. If you blow the arms, so what,<br />
they were not made to be competitive armatures anyway. Just rip<br />
off the old wind and try something else. The practise you get is<br />
invaluable and will not cost you much more than time. Don't try your<br />
hand on a serious tuning job until you can really wind.<br />
The right equipment is important. For the serious tuner, a WINDING<br />
MACHINE is indispensable. Winding can be done easier, faster and<br />
with more precision, which will show up in performance. The wire can<br />
be 'packed' tighter, meaning more turns in less space, which in turn<br />
makes for more power and less unbalance. Many of the winds I have<br />
mentioned are impossible when winding by hand alone. Just try to<br />
cram on 60 of 28 that way! With a machine, however. 75 of 28 can be<br />
done on a 16D-armature.<br />
There are not many makes on the market. Teddington's Mini<br />
Winder is the one we use, with good results, as some of you readers<br />
may have noticed from last year's National Championships here in<br />
Sweden. Price is only 19/11, so buy one for your club today. Other<br />
good ones are LaGanke and Cobra, both American, but I'm not sure<br />
these are manufactured any longer. You might try sending to the<br />
U.S. for these. Price is six bucks.<br />
First a few mods on the Teddington machine: the inside of the<br />
adaptor should be ground out slightly and the adapter epoxied to<br />
one of the halves -see figure.<br />
Now, as for winding, I will reveal a special technique we invented<br />
a long time ago. A s of writing this, we have hitherto kept it silent<br />
and we believe we are the only team - at least hore in Sweden - to<br />
use this.<br />
8
When first embarking<br />
on simul winds, our<br />
Teddington gadget was<br />
modified as shown<br />
here: tape was wrapped<br />
tightly around a<br />
tile . . .<br />
.. . and the file then inserted In<br />
the hole on the machine. A few<br />
pieces of thick copper wire helped<br />
keep the file in place.<br />
Next, transfer som e w ire to two em pty sp o o ls. M u ra 25 copper w ire w a s used<br />
here. The insulatio n m ust be stripped off. U se fine em ery paper for this<br />
If you take a look at a run-of-the-mill armature, you can easily tell<br />
in which order the poles have been wound, since the last one will<br />
have its turns flowing out on the two other poles. Those of you who<br />
read and memorised the chapter on winding theory will at once<br />
realise that this is not so good: the coils will generate unequal fields<br />
and unequal back emf's. meaning parasite currents. The obvious<br />
answer, therefore, is to make the coils equal by winding them at the<br />
same time. Out of this thought, the technique of simultaneous winding<br />
was born. Simultaneous winding will require a lot more work, but<br />
once you have made your first successful armature, admired the<br />
beautiful work and watched its performance, you will never want to<br />
go back to the old pole-at-a-time method again. Of course, the technique<br />
described here is not quite simultaneous winding, but the next<br />
best thing, with a noticeable difference in performance when you<br />
have mastered it.<br />
The first thing is to further modify your Teddington machine. I will<br />
here describe the mods we did for making our first simul-winds. but<br />
you should think out a more elegant solution with time.<br />
Get a long, round file, with a max. o.d. of about 1/4 in., and start<br />
wrapping tape tightly around the middle. See photos. Wrap tape<br />
until the file can barely be inserted in the big hole on the armature<br />
holder. Insert the blank armature and tighten the screw. (We have<br />
re-tapped the hole and changed to a more sturdy screw.)<br />
For the next step, you should have two small, empty spools, the<br />
kind that Mura- and Cobra wire come on. Now, get out your wire,<br />
and on each of these two spools wrap on wire enough for one pole.<br />
Figure 22: M o d ify in g the Teddington w in d in g m achine. Figure 23: T h is arm h a s<br />
been w o u n d w ith the pole-at-a-tim e method: yo u can easily see in w h ich order<br />
the p o les have been w ou n d . Figure 24: W h e n strip p in g insulation off the wire,<br />
rem em ber to keep the 3/32 in. distance . . . for safety reasons.<br />
9
Left to right. W rap the wire end around the shaft and start winding, slowly and<br />
evenly I m ust point out that I never wind with the com on, since this will only<br />
beinthewaywhenweto lay the wire neatly. The first ten turns are com<br />
(wind is 25 of 25). Put the spool pleted on the file and lock with a strong alligator<br />
clip. The arm is turned and the second pole wrapped with ten turns from the<br />
next spool. Put this spool at the other end of the file and lock<br />
About 1.65 to 1.70 inches per winding turn is the figure to calculate<br />
with for an average arm, but if you have got a long or a short stack<br />
armature, this should be considered. When in doubt, though, take a<br />
little extra. That 3d. or so of wire is a cheap insurance against having<br />
to rip it off and starting over again because one of the wire lengths<br />
was too short.<br />
Now, pick one of the spools and start stripping the wire insulation<br />
at the end. This stripping should be done with a piece of fine emery<br />
paper. X-acto or chemical strippers are not recommended, since<br />
knives will easily scrape off too much and chemicals are highly<br />
corrosive and therefore dangerous. With the emery paper, sand off<br />
the insulation all around the wire, but see to it that the border-line<br />
between insulated and stripped wire is a well-defined circle around<br />
the wire.<br />
Place this wire end at one of the poles, with the insulated part<br />
sticking out about 3/32 in. from the pole. See figure. The wire end<br />
is twisted tightly around the shaft. Then start winding, turning the<br />
handle slowly with one hand and letting the wire run out between the<br />
fingers of the other. The first two turns can be wound a shade<br />
loosely, but after that you start pulling hard, and I mean hard. I've had<br />
26-gauge wire snap right-off while winding.<br />
Wind on 10 turns, making sure that the wire comes on tight and<br />
even. A hard pull is essential for this. With these 10 turns on, put the<br />
spool on the file and lock it with an alligator clip. The advantage of<br />
the file here is the rough surface, which will make the clip stay in<br />
position. Note that wire should be tightly stretched. See photosl<br />
Loosen the locking screw and turn the armature so that the next<br />
pole is available for winding. Don't forget to keep the wire on the<br />
first pole tight! It is advisable to be two persons whenever doing this,<br />
so that one person can keep the wires tight while the other handles<br />
the locking screw and changes armature position. Now repeat the<br />
process of insulation stripping and wind until you have your 10 turns<br />
on this pole also. Put this spool at the other end of the file, locking it<br />
as before.<br />
The armature is again turned - tricky business, since the wire on<br />
the poles must be kept tightly stretched - and the third pole started<br />
upon as before. Mind the insulation business and wind on 10 tight<br />
turns.<br />
10
Left to right. Take the third spool and start w inding the third pole. W h en this<br />
pole has its ten turns, turn the armature so that the first pole is again available<br />
and then change the spools on the file. Really, two persons should work with<br />
keeping the wire stretched. Now just continue in this fashion, changing poles and<br />
winding until all the poles have been done. Remember to strip the insulation<br />
off at this end of the wire, too.<br />
Here comes the worst part. Recommended succession: (1) unlock<br />
screw, turn armature, lock screw; (2) Remove the clip and lift off the<br />
spool belonging to the next pole (i.e. here the first wound); (3) Put<br />
on spool from the last (third) pole. Remember, the wires of all poles<br />
must be kept tight, so this is really work for two persons.<br />
Now we are back on the first pole, so wind on another 10 turns,<br />
repeat the exchange process above, wind 10 turns on the next pole,<br />
and so on.<br />
This, then, is the method of near-simultaneous winding. W e do not<br />
always wind on 10 turns at a time; nearing the end we can go<br />
down to 5 or even less turns in order to get a symmetric arm.<br />
This is dependent on wire size and the number of turns used For<br />
example, a 65 of 28 might be wound 10-20-30-40-45-50-55-60-65, a 35<br />
of 26 in 10-20-25-30-35 steps, and a 25 of 25 in 8-15-20-23-25. This<br />
is up to you to decide yourself.<br />
Mind you, I said it was going to be work, and it needs considerable<br />
practise to master. You will curse me loud and long when you first<br />
embark on this venture, but after 20 armatures or so this will be<br />
Now take a careful look at the arm and be honest with yourself: is this wind really well<br />
made or should I do it over? I must take the opportunity of saying that I consider this<br />
wind below my usual standard, due to having to get up every few minutes to take photos,<br />
arrange lights and so on. So had it not been that this was a ‘how-to' job, I would have<br />
done it over if it turned out like this. You should be able to do better. If the wind is<br />
considered O K , put a few turns of tape around it and insert in a vice. Use extra pieces of<br />
thick paper so as not to mar the<br />
shaft. Carefully untwist the wires,<br />
sort out the pairs and check that<br />
insulation stripping is OK. Twist the<br />
wire pairs together - not too tightly,<br />
or a wire might snap off.<br />
11
Left to right. A close-up of what the joints should<br />
look like. Note that only a small amount of solder<br />
is needed, and that this m ust flow out evenly on<br />
wire and com ear. If you are not pleased with your<br />
first attempts, let the com cool off and do it over.<br />
D o not solder all three joints<br />
in a row: the com m ust be<br />
allowed to cool off in between<br />
Then, adjust the com in position, wrap some copper wire around it to act as a<br />
heat sink, and solder. Remember to work quickly, as the extreme temps necessary<br />
for this kind of solder can easily damage the com. However, don't cut time short<br />
and fake the job: of all the solder joints in a race car, these three are probably<br />
the ones subjected to m ost abuse. W hen the joints are O K . lightly brush off the<br />
com with a soft toothbrush.<br />
routine (the winding, not the cursing, I hope). Practice makes perfect.<br />
So just keep on winding the poles as described here. Paper and pen<br />
might be useful so you won't lose track of the turns.<br />
When you have wound the last turn on a pole, the insulation<br />
must be stripped off again. As before, work with fine emery paper<br />
and see to it that the bare copper stops (or starts, depending on<br />
how you see it) those 3/32 in. from the pole. Then just cut off the<br />
wire with a few inches of bare copper sticking out, and twist the<br />
wire end around the shaft. Turn the armature and put on the last<br />
turns on the next pole, then repeat the process above. The third and<br />
last pole is again treated the same way.<br />
Now you should have the armature looking like the photo. Good.<br />
Remove it from the winding machine and put it in a vice like in photo.<br />
Insert pieces of thick paper so that the vice jaws will not mar the<br />
shaft. Then wrap the same tape around the stack and the wire, so<br />
that the latter will stay in place during the next steps.<br />
Untwist the wire ends on the shaft and sort them out, so that they<br />
two and two come out from between the poles. Don't miss here . . .<br />
when you are sure that you have the right wires in the right places,<br />
check that the insulation really is stripped off all round, twist them<br />
together two and two and cut off to about an inch length.<br />
Now put on the commutator and adjust it into position. The twisted<br />
wire ends are bent tightly around the commutator tabs and soldered.<br />
When the solder joints are finished and perfect, snip off the loose wire<br />
ends with a sharp pair of cutting pliers.<br />
NOTE: those solder joints are critical. Use a well cleaned soldering<br />
iron with enough watts and point temperature, heat the com tab and<br />
the wire thoroughly while applying cleaning fluid, preferably of the<br />
non-acid type, and then apply a small amount of the com solder and<br />
make sure it flows out into an even joint. To prevent damaging the<br />
com from heat. I suggest winding it with bare copper wire acting as a<br />
heat sink. See photos.<br />
If you instead wish a cross delta connection, the wires should not<br />
be twisted together but instead crossed in front of the pole and<br />
joined to their respective com tabs. Note risk of short circuiting, so<br />
make sure the wires do not touch. Soldering is as before.<br />
12
The next step is tying the com. Got some strong thread and wrap it around the<br />
com ears in a criss-cro ss fashion as show n here. A little thread around the w ires<br />
behind the com is also useful.<br />
The electrical connections of the armature are now finished, so<br />
theoretically it should be functional. Before we epoxy the armature,<br />
this should also be checked. We can as yet correct a fault by taking<br />
off the wind and do it over, should we have bombed' the job, but<br />
with the epoxy on we will be beyond the point of no return. There are<br />
chemical softeners and strippers for epoxy, but these are dangerous<br />
and highly corrosive. Besides, I consider it a waste of time to try<br />
and save an epoxied arm.<br />
So wrap the armature with one turn of thin, sticky tape, preferably<br />
something like Scotch Strapping tape Put on the washers in each end<br />
and insert the armature in a case with magnets, screw on the endbell<br />
and install brushes and springs.<br />
NOTE: we use an unshimmed Champion 507 case assembly for<br />
this, since it has an air gap big enough to enable running the armature<br />
with tape on. This tape, of course, is a safeguard against the<br />
unepoxied wire coming off. I suggest that you, too, have a 'trial' case<br />
with endbell for this purpose of checking armatures. The endbell can<br />
well be a stock Mabuchi or similar, since the short trial runs will<br />
cause no heat problem. Brush springs, too. can be the standard 'soft'<br />
variety.<br />
Then plug in your controller to the track, hold the endbell wire on<br />
the lane braid and give the controller a few light squeezes.<br />
WARNING: do not fall for the temptation of giving it a punch or<br />
two' and see that revs are good. As long as the epoxy is not in place,<br />
the arm will all too easily blow, tape or not. Just give it light bursts<br />
of current, 15-20 times, to see that the arm will start easily and from<br />
any position.<br />
If the wind was not OK, face it like a man and start the job over<br />
again. If the arm seems to work good, we can proceed to epoxying.<br />
NOTE: if you are just practising your winding hand, do not bother<br />
about epoxying. Instead, wrap the stack with an extra turn of tape<br />
and give it those full 12 volts to see if you succeeded When the arm<br />
blows, just rip off the old wire and start on another wind.<br />
★ ★ ★ ★<br />
13
16 pointers<br />
Stripping: making a good job here is important. If any spot of insulation<br />
still remains on the wire, it can foul the whole com solder joint.<br />
Also, I suggest stripping even wires with 'solderable' insulation for a<br />
less messy job.<br />
Packing: the tighter you can pack the wire, the less weight and space<br />
that will be required, and the more performance added. A trick is<br />
using a popsicle or ice cream stick (of wood), suitably shaped, for<br />
packing the wire. Usually the wire is packed after each layer is<br />
finished, but if you can arrange it, have a friend turn the handle on the<br />
winding machine while you 'steer' the wire with one hand and pack<br />
it in with the other. Caution: do not use pieces of hard plastic or<br />
metal for this packing, since this will inevitably scar the insulation<br />
Soft wood is best.<br />
Wire: if you for some reason rip off the old wire and start on a new<br />
wind, you must also use new wire. Winding while pulling hard will<br />
really strain the insulation, so it might break and short circuit the arm<br />
if you try using it again. Don't try to pinch your pennies here, wire<br />
is only used once.<br />
Sorting: Sometimes (clumsy winding, natch) sorting out and pairing<br />
the right wires can be a nuisance. The trick here is tying one knot on<br />
every wire end extending from one of the hollows between the<br />
poles, two knots on all wire ends from the next hollow, and three<br />
on the wires belonging to the third. Then, when sorting out the wires,<br />
just take all those with one knot and twist together, then take these<br />
with two knots and do the same, and so on. The knots, of course,<br />
should be tied far enough out on the wire as not to interfere with the<br />
com solder joints.<br />
Left to right: W hen double winding, w ind with both w ires (or all three in a triple)<br />
at the same time Be careful when packing the wire, so that wire insulation is<br />
not scarred. Star winding. The three 'lo o se ' ends of wire are twisted together . . .<br />
and then soldered and cut short. This is just a 'demonstration w ind', so no great<br />
care has been taken in w inding the arm evenly.<br />
1 4
W ith the arm h o t, hold it in pliers and ap ply the epoxy all around - rem em ber<br />
n o w , sm all am o u n ts are needed. D o N O T cover the sold er joints w ith epoxy, but<br />
give tying thread a light im pregnation. C h eck com p osition! Before epoxyin g the<br />
arm , both epoxy and arm m u st be thoroughly heated. T h is can be a c co m p lish e d<br />
as show n, by h avin g the arm stand upright in a hole and the epoxy nearby. The<br />
arm m u st be turned around often, to heat evenly. D o not heat the epoxy for too<br />
long: it m u st still flow evenly w hen applied. The finished job. Rem em ber to keep<br />
heating the arm, s o that the epoxy w ill flow in and im pregnate the wire.<br />
U nepoxied tu rn s of w ire 'd o w n in sid e ' can shift and u p s et the balance.<br />
Double winds: These should be wound with the two wires simultaneously,<br />
even though it will be more work. Layering’ the wind<br />
(winding one coil at a time) should be avoided, for the reasons given<br />
earlier. Keeping track of two wires instead of one will require practise,<br />
not to mention triple winds. I strongly advise using the knot trick<br />
here, as sorting out 12 wire ends on the double wind (and 18 on a<br />
triple!) will easily make your blood pressure rise.<br />
Star winds: Wind and curse as usual, but now the finishing ends of<br />
the wire should not be drawn up to the com but instead be twisted<br />
together and cut off at the other end of the stack. See photo! This<br />
"pigtail" (the twisted wires) should be soldered, cut off to the<br />
shortest possible length and tucked in. The disadvantage of the star<br />
wind is that the armature will obviously be out of balance due to the<br />
pig-tail and therefore require that bigger holes be bored to compensate<br />
for this. However, we are projecting starting with the pig-tail,<br />
wound symmetrically around the shaft close to the stack and epoxied,<br />
and then proceed to wind as usual. At the com end the usual solder<br />
work is done, with the difference that now only one wire end will be<br />
connected to each com tab (for a single star wind). Commutator<br />
advancing is the same as for delta connected winds.<br />
★ ★ ★ ★<br />
17 epoxying<br />
The armature must always be epoxied, to prevent the wire flying<br />
off at high R P M ’s. In addition to this epoxying, we also tie the com<br />
wires as an extra safeguard. Use a thin line or wire for this, nonmetallic<br />
of course. Personally, I use thin stretchable nylon wire,<br />
the kind that can usually be purchased in a haberdashery shop.<br />
Common sewing thread will work fine, too. Just wind it on crisscross<br />
between the com tabs as the photo shows.<br />
For epoxying the armature, I do not recommend Araldite, though<br />
this statement will probably get me a few enemies. Araldite, if subjected<br />
to very high temperatures, will crack and break the wire. We<br />
have had this happen on several armatures. Instead, I recommend<br />
15
Mini-Wheels' epoxy, which will stay together during racing - at least<br />
we have never had this epoxy crack in our tests. (In a 24-hour, for<br />
example, we ran an arm that was epoxied half with Araldite and<br />
half with Mini-Wheels. The Araldite cracked.) If you cannot find this<br />
epoxy in Britain. I suggest sending for it from some American mailorder<br />
firm.<br />
The Mini-Wheels stuff is a 24-hour epoxy, but by heating we can<br />
make it both cure quicker and flow out more evenly. Therefore, place<br />
a small amount of mixed-out epoxy and your armature in close vicinity<br />
to your hot solder iron. Use a piece of wood - not balsa - with a<br />
shallow 5/64 in. hole in it to have the arm stand upright. Heat for<br />
15 minutes or so, especially the arm should be thoroughly hot. Then<br />
grab the armature shaft in a pair of no-knurl pliers and apply a thin<br />
coat of epoxy with the help of a match or a toothpick. No great slabs<br />
are needed, just a thin coat that will flow out and impregnate the<br />
wire. Smear a little on the com tying thread, just enough to cover it.<br />
but leave the solder joints free!<br />
Too much epoxy is dangerous, it will act as a dead weight and a<br />
heat trap, with consequent less performance and more heat. I assure<br />
you that very small amounts are needed - see photos.<br />
I am no fan of put-it-in-the-oven school, instead I recommend that<br />
you place the armature near your hot solder iron where you can<br />
easily keep a check on it all the time. The hot epoxy must not flow<br />
out on the shaft or into the com segment slots. However, if you only<br />
have put on that small amount of epoxy, it will usually stay in place<br />
while curing. But check often, and turn the armature upside down<br />
every two minutes or so for the first half hour. Then you can shut off<br />
the solder iron and let it cool slowly while keeping the arm nearby.<br />
Changes in temperature should be performed slowly - the trick of<br />
directly taking the arm from oven to refrigerator can cause dangerous<br />
temp stresses on epoxy and insulation<br />
Now the epoxy should be rather stiff, so put the arm away and let<br />
it cure the rest overnight. Of course, should the need arise (like<br />
working all night trying to meet the sign-up deadline at 8.30 a.m.).<br />
you can always keep on heating the arm with the iron. I have once<br />
prepared, wound and balanced an arm in 5 1/2hours, but I would rather<br />
not do it again, even though I managed to win that race.<br />
NOTE: do not forget to check that the com sits in the position you<br />
want. Finally, getting the epoxy to cure and then discovering that the<br />
com is all wrong, as I have seen happen, is not very funny ... for<br />
yourself.<br />
it it it it<br />
16
Ways of balancing. The worst method is this one<br />
(top), from a Champ 507. with long slashes<br />
ground in the pole surface. The Dyna method,<br />
filing up notches (next down). The best method<br />
of removing weight, drilling holes in the pole<br />
surface (bottom). The arm here turned out<br />
fairly well balanced after winding, so only two<br />
small holes were needed<br />
Now for balancing, with the method that at least 99% of the readers m ust be<br />
familiar with - the Razor Blade Method. Check that edges of blades really are<br />
parallel. Heating the lead epoxy on the arm. Shift between placing the arm with<br />
the lead epoxy top and bottom, so that it will not flow out too much.<br />
18 balancing (static)<br />
Now the armature is wound and epoxied. but we are not out of<br />
the woods yet: it has to be balanced first.<br />
Why balance? Well, when doing the armature, we have usually not<br />
quite managed to get the wire and the epoxy on evenly, with the result<br />
that the armature will be heavier on one side. Only once in my<br />
nine years as a racer have I seen an arm that turned out perfectly<br />
balanced (static), but unfortunately, it was not mine. Anyway, you<br />
can see that happens very seldom, so chances are your armature will<br />
need a little work.<br />
If we put our unbalanced arm in a motor and have it run. centrifugal<br />
forces will try to force the heavy side away from the shaft,<br />
causing vibrations, friction and heat. Friction and heat have already<br />
been discussed in general and it should be obvious that these are bad<br />
for performance, but let us consider vibrations. Vibrations - any<br />
vibrations - in a car are detrimental, since they will spread everywhere<br />
in the frame. And you can easily imagine what kind of roadholding<br />
you will have with the rear axle trying to jump up and<br />
down . . .<br />
(You should watch worn gears, bent axles and out-of-round<br />
wheels, too, since these can cause serious vibrations. Ideally, gears<br />
and wheels should also be balanced for maximum performance.)<br />
So it is clear that the armature should be balanced, and the obvious<br />
way is to either remove weight from the heavy side or add weight to<br />
the light side.<br />
For static balancing (we will discuss dynamic in a moment), the<br />
tried and true method is to place the armature on a pair of razor<br />
blades stuck into a piece of balsa. Blade edges must be parallel and<br />
horizontal. When the arm is placed on the blades, it will turn until it<br />
17
ests with its heavy side down. Note, however, that a nick on the<br />
edges or wear damage on the shaft can also cause the arm to stop in<br />
certain positions and fool you. To avoid this, try the armature several<br />
times in different positions in different places on the blades. If the<br />
same pole (mark them A, B and C for easy identification) always<br />
'hangs down', your arm is obviously out of balance.<br />
NOTE: an even better method, especially with small amounts of<br />
unbalance, is to lean the wood piece with the razor blades slightly<br />
and have the armature roll down them slowly. If the arm rolls with<br />
the same speed, the static balance is OK. But if it rolls in a 'calypso<br />
rhythm', work is needed. Let us start with method A , removing<br />
weight from the heavy side.<br />
There are different ways of doing this, as the photos will show.<br />
The old Champion balancing, grinding off big slices, is the worst. It<br />
will short circuit many plates and make for higher core losses due to<br />
eddy currents, as explained earlier.<br />
The Dyna method of filing notches will short circuit less plates, but<br />
still leave a rather long scar in the pole face.<br />
The best way of removing weight is by drilling holes, since the<br />
least pole area will be disturbed. All motors of quality (Champion has<br />
switched to this method on its new series) have this kind of<br />
balancing.<br />
However, drilling holes in the hard pole surface without slipping<br />
accidentally into the wires is not easy. Experience speaks. Therefore.<br />
I recommend the beginner to use the notching method instead, by all<br />
means use holes.<br />
Having determined which of the poles is the heaviest, the armature<br />
is clamped in a vice with this pole up. Use inserted pieces of thick<br />
paper or similar, so that the arm will not be marred by the jaws or<br />
the vice. Now grab a thin round file and start working away, holding<br />
it as in the photo (less risk of driving the file into the wires). Please<br />
note that the notch must not necessarily start on the middle of the<br />
pole face (cross-wise), but rather on the exact part of the pole that<br />
is pointing down.<br />
NOTE: always, however, file on the middle of the pole face, lengthwise,<br />
or you might risk further damaging the dynamic unbalance.<br />
Should the notch threaten to grow too big, it will be better to make<br />
two smaller notches beside each other. But don't forget to check the<br />
balance often, so you won't remove too much!<br />
If you use holes, these should be about .05 to .10 in. in diameter<br />
This will depend on the amount of unbalance. If the hole is somewhat<br />
to the side of the pole, don't drill it too deep or you might cut a few<br />
wires.<br />
If you consider it for a second, employing method B and adding<br />
weight to the light side is really much smarter. Notching or drilling in<br />
the poles means less magnetic mass, and though the armature will<br />
run faster when balanced, we have actually lowered torque. Method<br />
B means more (dead) mass, but provided the unbalance, and thus<br />
the mass needed is not too great, we have made an overall gain by<br />
retaining torque.<br />
The method has its limitations; it cannot be used on 'fullhouse'<br />
winds, as there must be space for the weight we are going to add.<br />
Otherwise the method is a simple one.<br />
For best results, we should start while epoxying the armature.<br />
Mix up some epoxy, same as the one used on the armature, and put<br />
it beside the solder iron for quick curing. Then get out some lead<br />
sheet and start filing on it, until you have a nice collection of lead<br />
18
Below. If using brass plate<br />
thicker than .015 inches, a<br />
notch will usually have to be<br />
cut so that the brush holder<br />
will not be seated too high.<br />
At left. Bend clip to fit<br />
and solder it in position.<br />
It must be soldered both<br />
to brush holder and plate<br />
for maximum heat conduction.<br />
The brush holder m ust be filed down in bottom and then soldered exactly in<br />
position. Use square tubing for a jig. Note that this step really is important, or<br />
timing can be seriously out of whack. Lastly, solder the post protector in p o sition.<br />
You can easily w hip up your ow n from brass or steel tube. For bullet-proofing,<br />
the endbell m ust bo modded: the ring around the bearing (thin arrow) must<br />
be removed for bullet-proofing the bearing, and the ridges that originally held the<br />
brush holder (thick arrow) m ust also be removed. U se sharp X-acto knife and<br />
flat file.<br />
dust, which is added to the newly-mixed epoxy and thoroughly<br />
diluted. Use plenty of lead dust; the epoxy should be thick with it.<br />
In the meantime, the epoxy on the armature has started to stiffen, so<br />
now we hastily get out the razor blades and check unbalance. This<br />
time, however, we add our lead epoxy to the area between the poles<br />
that is up' when the arm has come to rest.<br />
NOTE: this balancing method will take a few hours, since the added<br />
weighted epoxy will flow out and continually change the balance<br />
For best results, the lead epoxy should always have cured enough so<br />
that it will barely flow out on the epoxied wires. Patience!<br />
NOTE: the reason for starting to balance like this while the armature<br />
epoxy is still wet, is to ensure that the lead epoxy really will<br />
stay in place. In all fairness. I must point out that there have been a<br />
few cases when the lead epoxy came off at high R P M 's, but these<br />
have been cases when the balancing epoxy was added long after the<br />
armature epoxy had dried.<br />
NOTE: very seldom, actually, will the unbalance be so neat that<br />
only one pole has to be notched or lead epoxy applied in one spot.<br />
Usually, two poles will have to be notched or epoxy applied in two<br />
spots, and then also usually in unequal amounts. Care!<br />
NOTE: of course, you can combine the methods. This is up to you,<br />
though.<br />
★ ★ ★ ★<br />
19 balancing (dynamic)<br />
As yet, we have discussed static balance - the armature is in<br />
balance while resting on the razor blades or in the motor. If we run<br />
it, though, we will in all probability still experience vibrations from<br />
dynamic unbalance.<br />
19
I mentioned that after winding and epoxying, the poles are not<br />
equally heavy. Static balancing, as discussed in the preceding chapter,<br />
will correct this. What it will not correct, however, is the weight<br />
distribution of the poles. One pole might be heavier on the com side,<br />
another towards the opposite side. Obviously, we again have some<br />
kind of unbalance, and this is called dynamic unbalance. Everything<br />
is OK as long as the arm is motionless, but when it starts to turn, it<br />
will try to whirl, as the term is. The whirling will again cause vibrations<br />
and friction with subsequent slowing down and heating up.<br />
NOTE: total unbalance can be seen as the sum of two unbalances,<br />
static and dynamic. We can remove the static unbalance, but this<br />
still leaves the dynamic kind.<br />
As for ourselves, we cannot do anything about this with our<br />
primitive equipment. To detect and correct dynamic unbalance, it<br />
takes an experienced operator and a machine worth hundreds or<br />
thousands of pounds. Luckily, there are a few balancing firms that<br />
will do the job for us - against payment, of course.<br />
The nearest firm for British readers would be Model Racing Car<br />
Centre at 390 Brockley Road. London, S E 4. Their price for a balancing<br />
job (using holes) is 10s.<br />
Across the Atlantic, we have the famous Thorp of Pomona, who<br />
does all the balancing for the U S. pro teams. The address is John<br />
Thorp, 143 West Commercial, Pomona. California 91766. They charge<br />
you $2.50 but will make an absolute perfect job and in addition true<br />
up the com for you.<br />
If you decide to send your armatures for dynamic balancing, don't<br />
forget to include a cheque or money order for the correct amount plus<br />
postage back to you, and your name and address. Make sure your<br />
armatures are carefully packed up, so that they will survive the trip<br />
without damage.<br />
NOTE: dynamic balancing is, of course, superior to static, so I<br />
strongly recommend it for your racing arms. A good knowledge of<br />
static balancing is always an asset, though, if you are faced with<br />
the problem of quickly fixing an armature overnight.<br />
A few last words on balance, before we leave the subject. A<br />
balanced arm might become unbalanced with time, because of centrifugal<br />
forces, thermal expansion or shocks - like from hitting the floor.<br />
Therefore, it might be necessary to rebalance the armature when it<br />
starts losing its zing. And if your armature is dynamically balanced,<br />
solder your pinion, don't hammer it on!<br />
4r * ★ *<br />
20
20 endbell<br />
And now we have reached the third and last main unit in the<br />
motor, the endbell.<br />
A good endbell must meet three requirements: it must provide a<br />
stiff bearing area for the armature, it must not break down from heat,<br />
and it must provide a good current conduction. I may be fastidious<br />
when it comes to this, but my choice is either a white Mura or a<br />
Champion endbell. The grey Mura is good and will stand up to most<br />
E C.R A. racing, but for the fast commercial crowd, the white version<br />
will give added security.<br />
The heat is the worst problem in motor building today, as any<br />
24-hour racer will testify. (Lars has still got scars from our last<br />
enduro.) The usual breakdown of an unprepared endbell will be that<br />
the material melts so that the brush holder and the spring will sink<br />
down forever in the plastic. To avoid this, bullet proofing' was<br />
invented by soldering the brush holders to a metal plate, and a few<br />
other refinements. This has the advantage of distributing the heat over<br />
a greater area for quicker heat dissipation<br />
All endbells should be bullet proofed for maximum security. If<br />
you're the lazy type, you can buy ready-made parts from Mini-Wheels<br />
or Champion. However, knocking up your own bullet plates is not<br />
difficult.<br />
Get brass sheet of a suitable thickness, anything between .015 and<br />
.040 in. are used. Cut out two plates that will fit exactly on the<br />
endbell and drill holes for the spring post and the screw. See photos.<br />
If you are using brass thicker than .015, you must also file a notch<br />
across the plates, or the brushes will ride too high.<br />
Next step is to file down the brush holders as per figure. Then<br />
comes the tough part, soldering this modified brush holder to the<br />
plate in exactly the right position. This will need patience and many<br />
resolderings, in all likelihood. The brush holder must be exactly<br />
centred, or you will have difficulty controlling the timing, as I pointed<br />
out earlier. Also make sure that the brush holder will be close to the<br />
com, for maximum brush stability. About .012 in. between the com<br />
and the brush holder is the ideal.<br />
The next step is the clip, which must fit tight against plate and<br />
brush holder. If necessary, reshape to fit, then solder it in place. The<br />
clip should be soldered to both the plate and the brush holder.<br />
Lastly, solder the post protector over the hole for the spring post,<br />
and clean up the job.<br />
NOTE: use high-temp solder for the bullet plates. The endbell<br />
assembly can actually get so hot that common solder will melt.<br />
The endbell must be modified to accept these plates. Get an X-acto<br />
knife for cutting down the edges around the brush holder, and afterwards<br />
file the area flat.<br />
21
Figure 25: M o d d in g the b ru sh holder. File<br />
d o w n (sh a d e d area) until only 1/64 in.<br />
rem ains below bru sh hole.<br />
Check that the brush will easily slide through the brush holder,<br />
otherwise deburr the edges with a square file. With the complete<br />
bullet plates on, check for alignment by sticking in a piece of 3/32 in<br />
square tubing through the whole assembly.<br />
Variations on a theme: if you wish, skip filing down the brush holder<br />
and instead cut a slot in the plate so that the unmodified brush<br />
holder can protrude down into the Vee. Solder as before.<br />
To have even more efficient heat dissipation, your bullet proofing<br />
plates can be done 'elephant ear' size, sticking out a good bit from<br />
the endbell. This is dependent on how much space you have in the<br />
chassis. It won't look pretty, but it's efficient.<br />
A rather primitive form we invented about a year before 'real'<br />
bullet proofing became the vogue, was to solder a piece of braid to<br />
clip and brush holder. This piece is allowed to stick out a good bit<br />
and will dissipate heat surprisingly efficiently.<br />
Concerning the bearing, use either a Mura or a Champion bearing,<br />
according to the endbell make. A Mabuchi bearing will quickly develop<br />
an oval hole, so I cannot recommend it.<br />
Bullet proofing the bearing is frequently done. Either remove the<br />
outside edges around the bearing hole screw on the plate and apply a<br />
few quick dabs of solder, or reverse the bearing and solder it to the<br />
plate from the outside. See photos. As with the case bearing, polishing<br />
the inner surface to a high gloss is advisable. Bullet proofing the<br />
bearing is usually only done on can drive' motors.<br />
★ ★ ★ ★<br />
21 brushes & springs<br />
With that, we have completed the requirements for the first two<br />
items, bearing and heat proofing. Remains securing the current<br />
conduction.<br />
On a stock endbell. the current will go via the spring and via<br />
contact between brush and brush holder. The latter is rather erratic<br />
when the brush is vibrating during running, and the increased current<br />
through the spring will heat it up and make it lose pressure.<br />
What to use here is shunted brushes, meaning that the current will<br />
go directly from lead wire joint via the shunt to the brush. Shunted<br />
22
Bulletproofing, elephant ear size. These are made from silver-painted plastic, just to show<br />
you how it can look. Just about any shape is acceptable, as long as It won’t short-circuit via<br />
the chassis. Holes (should be many and small) are drilled for lightness and quicker cooling<br />
The first bullet proofings simply consisted of soldering a piece of braid to the clip and brush<br />
holder. Even today this trick could be used to further increase heat dissipation on a<br />
bulleted endbell.<br />
brushes can be bought ready-made, both Champion and Titan are<br />
good ones. Using these, just tuck in the shunt ‘tail' and solder.<br />
Otherwise, shunting your own brushes is easily done. Got some<br />
flexible lead wire and strip off the plastic sleeve insulation. Insert the<br />
brush and jam the shunt wire between brush and spring. See photo.<br />
Then just solder the other end of the shunt wire directly to the lead<br />
wire clip. Simple, wasn't it?<br />
NOTE: try sanding the brush slightly where the shunt wire will lie<br />
against it. Careful . . . that carbon is brittle.<br />
NOTE, lately, using double shunt wires to each brush is becoming<br />
popular. Another trick is to insulate the spring with a piece of plastic<br />
sleeve on it (not the brush end of the spring).<br />
NOTE: unless your black Mura case will turn pink from this, I can<br />
recommend good ol' Mabuchi brushes. Correctly shunted, they are<br />
superb. Pay attention to the springs, and make sure you use strong<br />
ones. Champion's are my favourites. If you are looking for really<br />
strong springs, I can recommend those from Model Racing Car<br />
Centre. Warning, though, as they will eat the brushes in a very short<br />
time.<br />
As for springs, shape them like in figure 26 and make sure they<br />
have an arc of at least 120 degrees<br />
NOTE: springs and brushes should be changed between every<br />
race, to keep performance up. Some people will even change springs<br />
A very good job can be done with square tube for brush holder and home-made clip.<br />
Champion's bullet plates are instead given a Vee to fit an unmodded brush holder. Unfortunately,<br />
these will only fit Champion's own endbells as standard. With a little modding of,<br />
say, a Mura endbell, though, they can be used. The usual way of bulleting a bearing.<br />
Bearing it knocked out, turned around and soldered in the plate. This will allow the<br />
bearing to run cooler<br />
- high temps can cause<br />
a ’break-down' of oil<br />
or grease. Don’t forget<br />
to polish the inside<br />
surface.<br />
23
The other end of the shunt wire soldered either on top of the dip or around the pickup<br />
wire tab. By all means, do make a better solder joint than the one here. Remember to use<br />
a long enough piece of shunt wire, so that it will not stretch when the brush is wearing<br />
short. The other method of bulleting the bearing. The plastic ring is cut away, as in photo<br />
and the bearing soldered in the plate. Only a few quick spots of solder are necessary<br />
Shunting the brush: the shunt wire is jammed between the brush slot and the spring . , .<br />
between practice and race, but this is up to you. If you are going to<br />
put away the car for a few days. I advise you to unhook the springs<br />
★ ★ ★ ★<br />
22 assembly<br />
At long last, we are now ready to assemble the motor. Check<br />
everything for absolute cleanliness, no metal dust on the magnets,<br />
nothing in the com slots, etc. Take the armature and put on the<br />
washers - don't forget the fibre washer on the com side - and care <br />
fully put the arm in the case. Check that there is a slight clearance<br />
between armature and magnets. Then put on the endbell and screw<br />
it on tight. Spin the armature a couple of times to check that nothing<br />
is binding. Now install brushes, shunts and springs.<br />
Solder the lead wires on each side and connect the motor to a<br />
power source. Have it spin a 'fast idle' (R P M about 15,000). Run the<br />
motor like this for about 20 seconds and then put a drop of oil in<br />
each bearing. Increase revs slightly and run the motor like this for<br />
1-minute periods. Total running-in time is usually about 15 minutes.<br />
WARNING: do not let the motor run free at anywhere near max<br />
R P M 's. since burrs at the com segment edges can easily crack the<br />
brushes.<br />
24<br />
Figure 26: The s p r in g s should<br />
be b ent a s show n. B y the<br />
w ay, m ake sure that the<br />
s p rin g w ill never stick in<br />
the slo t o n the b ru sh holder,<br />
a s th is w ill le sse n b ru sh<br />
p ressure and th u s perform <br />
ance. The s p rin g end m ust<br />
m ove freely here.
A trick from U S . racer Dave Grant: polish the com with a hard eraser, for seating<br />
and a better surface. Note how shiny the com turned out. This w orks wonders<br />
for the brush track. For cleaning com slots, use a piece of filed-to-shape ice<br />
lolly or ice cream stick - never metal.<br />
Putting on the pinion: sand the shaft end lightly and cut up a few<br />
small notches in it. If you have a drill blank, this can only be done<br />
with a motorised tool and a carbide disc. Heat the shaft with the<br />
solder iron and apply a thin coat of solder at the shaft end. Then<br />
give the pinion hole a few quick takes with a round file and put it<br />
on the shaft end. Now apply the cleaned end of the iron against the<br />
pinion and start pushing. After a few seconds, the solder will melt<br />
and the pinion slide into position. Heat for a few more seconds and<br />
then let it cool, and you have your pinion soldered on.<br />
At a recent race, I saw another method: put Araldite inside the<br />
pinion and slide it on to the shaft, then heat with a match and you are<br />
ready to race. When you want to remove the pinion, heat with another<br />
match while using a pinion puller. However, I am not sure that<br />
I would use this method myself.<br />
* ★ * *<br />
23 service<br />
Your motor will need constant care, supervision and service for<br />
maintaining top performance. Brushes and springs must be changed<br />
between every race, also springs between practice and race for max<br />
power. Never use excess o il! This is a common fault, but excess oil<br />
will just dirty up the case and the com with subsequent slowing<br />
down.<br />
Every now and then, you will have to disassemble the motor and<br />
clean it. Use liberal amounts of kerosene, pipecleancrs and rags on<br />
the case and endbell. wipe carefully afterwards and make sure no fluff<br />
from the pipecleaners is left. Check com solder joints and resolder<br />
25
these if necessary. If you have access to a low-R P M . power drill,<br />
insert the arm with the com end in the chuck and true the com<br />
with a pencil eraser. Clean with a fine cloth and make sure the com<br />
slots are free from dirt by running a toothpick along them.<br />
Every time you disassemble the motor, the shaft must be carefully<br />
sanded so that no solder will remain and mar the bearing. The endbell<br />
bearing must be changed every 3 or 4 races (sprints), since it will<br />
wear out quickly. Never remove the magnets unless absolutely necessary.<br />
If possible, try to remagnetise before every race, for maximum<br />
zap in your motor.<br />
And with that, my article on motor tuning draws to a close. (At last,<br />
you must be saying.) Give your motor lots of maintenance and<br />
tender, loving care, and it will be faithful to you and win many races.<br />
If anyone has any problems or simply wants to know more, just<br />
send a letter to Model Cars. I will try to answer those questions of<br />
most general interest in the magazine.<br />
Good luck !<br />
* * ★ A<br />
26
Now you have all three b o o kle ts in<br />
the ‘M otor T u n in g’ Series, d o n ’t<br />
forget author Dan G lim n e ’s offer to<br />
help with m ore inform ation or a s s is t<br />
with problem s a s you go on to hot<br />
up your own power units.<br />
A d d r e s s any co rresp ondence to<br />
Dan, care of ‘M odel C a r s ’ o ffice s at<br />
13-35 B R ID G E S T R E E T<br />
H E M E L H E M P S T E A D<br />
H E R T F O R D S H IR E<br />
W e’ll be only too pleased to p a s s<br />
them on.<br />
27
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