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20 endbell<br />
And now we have reached the third and last main unit in the<br />
motor, the endbell.<br />
A good endbell must meet three requirements: it must provide a<br />
stiff bearing area for the armature, it must not break down from heat,<br />
and it must provide a good current conduction. I may be fastidious<br />
when it comes to this, but my choice is either a white Mura or a<br />
Champion endbell. The grey Mura is good and will stand up to most<br />
E C.R A. racing, but for the fast commercial crowd, the white version<br />
will give added security.<br />
The heat is the worst problem in motor building today, as any<br />
24-hour racer will testify. (Lars has still got scars from our last<br />
enduro.) The usual breakdown of an unprepared endbell will be that<br />
the material melts so that the brush holder and the spring will sink<br />
down forever in the plastic. To avoid this, bullet proofing' was<br />
invented by soldering the brush holders to a metal plate, and a few<br />
other refinements. This has the advantage of distributing the heat over<br />
a greater area for quicker heat dissipation<br />
All endbells should be bullet proofed for maximum security. If<br />
you're the lazy type, you can buy ready-made parts from Mini-Wheels<br />
or Champion. However, knocking up your own bullet plates is not<br />
difficult.<br />
Get brass sheet of a suitable thickness, anything between .015 and<br />
.040 in. are used. Cut out two plates that will fit exactly on the<br />
endbell and drill holes for the spring post and the screw. See photos.<br />
If you are using brass thicker than .015, you must also file a notch<br />
across the plates, or the brushes will ride too high.<br />
Next step is to file down the brush holders as per figure. Then<br />
comes the tough part, soldering this modified brush holder to the<br />
plate in exactly the right position. This will need patience and many<br />
resolderings, in all likelihood. The brush holder must be exactly<br />
centred, or you will have difficulty controlling the timing, as I pointed<br />
out earlier. Also make sure that the brush holder will be close to the<br />
com, for maximum brush stability. About .012 in. between the com<br />
and the brush holder is the ideal.<br />
The next step is the clip, which must fit tight against plate and<br />
brush holder. If necessary, reshape to fit, then solder it in place. The<br />
clip should be soldered to both the plate and the brush holder.<br />
Lastly, solder the post protector over the hole for the spring post,<br />
and clean up the job.<br />
NOTE: use high-temp solder for the bullet plates. The endbell<br />
assembly can actually get so hot that common solder will melt.<br />
The endbell must be modified to accept these plates. Get an X-acto<br />
knife for cutting down the edges around the brush holder, and afterwards<br />
file the area flat.<br />
21