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Book 3

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Figure 25: M o d d in g the b ru sh holder. File<br />

d o w n (sh a d e d area) until only 1/64 in.<br />

rem ains below bru sh hole.<br />

Check that the brush will easily slide through the brush holder,<br />

otherwise deburr the edges with a square file. With the complete<br />

bullet plates on, check for alignment by sticking in a piece of 3/32 in<br />

square tubing through the whole assembly.<br />

Variations on a theme: if you wish, skip filing down the brush holder<br />

and instead cut a slot in the plate so that the unmodified brush<br />

holder can protrude down into the Vee. Solder as before.<br />

To have even more efficient heat dissipation, your bullet proofing<br />

plates can be done 'elephant ear' size, sticking out a good bit from<br />

the endbell. This is dependent on how much space you have in the<br />

chassis. It won't look pretty, but it's efficient.<br />

A rather primitive form we invented about a year before 'real'<br />

bullet proofing became the vogue, was to solder a piece of braid to<br />

clip and brush holder. This piece is allowed to stick out a good bit<br />

and will dissipate heat surprisingly efficiently.<br />

Concerning the bearing, use either a Mura or a Champion bearing,<br />

according to the endbell make. A Mabuchi bearing will quickly develop<br />

an oval hole, so I cannot recommend it.<br />

Bullet proofing the bearing is frequently done. Either remove the<br />

outside edges around the bearing hole screw on the plate and apply a<br />

few quick dabs of solder, or reverse the bearing and solder it to the<br />

plate from the outside. See photos. As with the case bearing, polishing<br />

the inner surface to a high gloss is advisable. Bullet proofing the<br />

bearing is usually only done on can drive' motors.<br />

★ ★ ★ ★<br />

21 brushes & springs<br />

With that, we have completed the requirements for the first two<br />

items, bearing and heat proofing. Remains securing the current<br />

conduction.<br />

On a stock endbell. the current will go via the spring and via<br />

contact between brush and brush holder. The latter is rather erratic<br />

when the brush is vibrating during running, and the increased current<br />

through the spring will heat it up and make it lose pressure.<br />

What to use here is shunted brushes, meaning that the current will<br />

go directly from lead wire joint via the shunt to the brush. Shunted<br />

22

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