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Caribbean Compass Yachting Magazine September 2016

Welcome to Caribbean Compass, the most widely-read boating publication in the Caribbean! THE MOST NEWS YOU CAN USE - feature articles on cruising destinations, regattas, environment, events...

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— Continued from previous page<br />

It wasn’t clear whether he meant we weren’t safe from the locals or vice versa; we<br />

suspected that actually they just wanted us where they could keep an eye on us. It<br />

was a pity, as we were in a lovely spot with early morning birds singing in the trees<br />

and jolly Cuban music from a nearby bar.<br />

The next morning, having re-anchored, we set off for the city of Santiago de Cuba,<br />

about a 20-minute ride away by taxi. One of the things we had most been looking<br />

forward to in Cuba was riding in an old American car. We had been in Cuba for a<br />

month already, and had had several such journeys. The cars’ bodywork and<br />

chrome fenders were generally gleaming, even if the windows frequently had no<br />

glass and on one memorable occasion the passenger door flew open as we cornered<br />

at speed!<br />

The city streets were teeming with various modes of transport: horse-drawn carts,<br />

bicycle taxis, old American and Russian cars, buses ancient and modern, men<br />

standing up in the back of trucks. The taxi dropped us off in Parque Cespedes, the<br />

main square. Santiago was founded in 1515 by Spanish Conquistador Diego<br />

Velazquez de Cuellar “in the name of His Majesty the King Don Fernando, God keep<br />

him for many years; lord and master of these lands” and contains many beautiful<br />

Spanish colonial buildings. Those in the centre have been restored to their original<br />

glory, while others on the outskirts have sadly fallen into disrepair.<br />

Parque Cespedes was surrounded on all sides by beautiful buildings; the huge<br />

cathedral, a confection of grey and white with tall towers at either end; La Casa de<br />

Diego Velazquez, built between1516 and 1530 and the oldest house still standing in<br />

Cuba; the Town Hall, from one of whose balconies Fidel Castro made his first speech<br />

to the citizens of Santiago on January 1st, 1959, a date marked annually by a public<br />

holiday known as El Dia del Triunfo de la Revolucion (Day of the Triumph of the<br />

Revolution). You can’t go far in Cuba without coming across huge murals and posters<br />

of Castro or of Che Guevara, both of whom are regarded as heroes of the revolution<br />

by many Cubans.<br />

The Hotel Casa Grande occupied the fourth side of the square. It was well named,<br />

as it resembled a palace, with ornate white decoration against a background of plaster<br />

the colour of buttermilk. A balcony running the length of the façade sheltered French<br />

windows leading to what we imagined would be sumptuously appointed bedrooms. We<br />

treated ourselves to a drink on the hotel terrace while we used their WiFi to check our<br />

e-mails, ensconced in comfortable wicker rocking chairs.<br />

Waiters in white shirts and black trousers carried hamburgers<br />

to tables, their expressions suggesting that they thought this<br />

might be beneath their dignity in such grand surroundings.<br />

Left: Horse-drawn carts are a common form of transport<br />

for goods and people<br />

Right: Images of Fidel Castro are everywhere<br />

Below: Lively live music is everywhere, too!<br />

A word of warning here about tourist touts; we encountered several young men<br />

claiming to work at the marina who tried to give us guided tours or take us to local<br />

restaurants. They were very persistent and hard to shake off, all the while seeming<br />

to be offering helpful advice to save you money.<br />

—Continued on next page<br />

The Last of their Breeds...<br />

SEPTEMBER <strong>2016</strong> CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27<br />

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