64 Photo by Rebecca Cunningham
FOOD Chargrilled courgette and feta salad in a preserved lemon dressing From the Eastern Mediterranean menu at Kabak market stall, run by Alex Marcovitch When I was younger I did a lot of travelling. I spent about two years backpacking across Turkey and the Middle East, and I fell in love with the amazing variety of food of those regions. The name ‘Kabak’ is Turkish for courgette or pumpkin, but it also happens to be the name of a really lovely village I visited - it’s quite common in Turkey for villages to be named after a vegetable that they grow a lot of. In this village there was a place that served big meze-style bowls full of beautiful-looking salads and vegetables, all out on the tables so that you could see everything. It inspired the way I cook and present the food on my market stall. This salad is best served freshly made and still warm, though it’s still perfectly nice cold. You can serve it just with hummus and warm pitta as a healthy, light meal, or as an accompaniment to grilled meat or fish. Ingredients (serves four): 1kg courgettes, 150g fine French beans or mangetout, 300g red onion, a handful of baby spinach leaves, half a handful each of fresh coriander and flat-leaf parsley (finely chopped), 50-100g feta (depending on taste, or if you prefer dairy-free, substitute with olives, stoned and halved), 1tbsp olive oil, 30g flaked almonds. For the dressing: 2 dessertspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, 3tbsp olive oil, 1tbsp water, 1tsp cider vinegar, 1tsp caster sugar, ½tsp crushed garlic, half a finely chopped preserved lemon, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Make the dressing first, as that gives the flavours some time to mingle and develop. I simply put all of the dressing ingredients into a jam jar, screw the lid on tightly and shake it well, making sure to shake it again just before pouring over the salad. Halve and thinly slice the red onions, then gently fry in a tablespoon of olive oil until caramelised (pale golden brown and sweet-tasting). Slice the courgettes at an angle (this makes them easier to grill and, I think, looks more pleasing than slicing them in the usual circular way) with each slice about half a centimetre thick. If you have a griddle pan, heat this up on the hob and grill the courgette slices for a few minutes on each side, until they are soft to the touch and have nice, blackened lines to them. If you don’t have one you can dry-fry them (in a frying pan with no oil) for a similar amount of time. Once a batch is cooked, pile the slices in a bowl to keep them warm while you cook the next. If you’re good at multi-tasking, cook the beans or mangetout at the same time as the courgettes. I do so in a pan of salted water for just a few minutes, making sure they’re cooked but not overdone. Remove them from the pan and quickly dunk in a bowl of cold water for a few seconds, then strain, so they are still warm, but no longer cooking. In a large salad bowl or pasta dish, mix all of the salad ingredients together and pour over the dressing, then toss the salad well. Give it a little taste and adjust the seasoning - you can squeeze over a little more lemon juice if it’s not quite tart enough. Sprinkle over the flaked almonds, and serve. As told to Rebecca Cunningham Find the Kabak stall at <strong>Lewes</strong> Farmers' Market on Cliffe Precinct on the first and third Saturday of each month, and at the Friday Market every week in the Market Tower. kabakfood.com 65