Near Juneau Alaska, a cruise ship navigates the Gastineau Channel.Opposite: Beet & Quinoa Salad, Alaskan Beer Battered Rockfish from the SALT Restaurant in Juneau. 90 Wine Dine & Travel <strong>2016</strong>
countries around the world quietly listened: “Wilderness is not only a haven for native plants and animals but it is also a refuge from society. It is a place to go to hear the wind and little else, see the stars and the galaxies, smell the pine trees, feel the cold water, and touch the sky and the ground at the same time ….” Our discovery began in Juneau, hub for all Alaska cruise ship departures, big or small. Blessed by glorious late May weather, my husband Tony and I spent several pre-cruise days in this charming town, which is also the capital of Alaska. We started out with a bang. The day of our arrival, we walked a few blocks from our hotel to the historic Juneau waterfront and boarded a Wing’s Airways float plane to experience a five-glacier discovery tour. We took off gently from the water under azure blue skies and soared over the Tongass National Forest (the largest national forest in the United States) and five majestic glaciers that make up the 1,500-square-mile Juneau Icefield. I was privileged to see nature in all its wonder like a bird in the sky. I gazed down on magnificent glaciers, fjords, snowcapped mountains, vernal lakes, and an expanse of wilderness as far as the eye could see. As an added delight, our visit to the remote Taku Glacier Lodge included not only a freshly-caught salmon feast, grilled to perfection, but our very first bear sighting in the Alaskan wilderness. Our next stop, on land this time, was the Mendenhall Glacier, one of the world’s few “urban” and “drive up” glaciers. Located less than a half hour drive from Juneau, this world wonder can be easily admired from the expansive visitor center observation deck. We wanted to get a closer look and decided to set off on the relatively easy (but very picturesque) Nugget Creek Trail, which led us past pristine forest glens, cascading waterfalls, and breathtaking glacier views. A ride on the Goldbelt Mount Roberts Tramway is another “must do” on a visit to Juneau. Cable cars rise 1,800 feet from the cruise ship dock in downtown to the mountain peak, which offers expansive views of Juneau and the Gastineau Channel. Not content to stop here, we hiked up a glorious sub-alpine meadow path, resplendent with spring flowers, and enjoyed a 360-degree view on Juneau and the channel below. After our vigorous hike, we enjoyed a fresh seafood dinner on the terrace of the tramway’s Timberline Bar & Grill, munching on crab tacos as we gazed out on miles and miles of old forest and kept our eyes out for bald eagles gliding from tree to tree. We also spent some time meandering through the unique Raven Eagle Gift Shop, which is not your typical tourist gift store, but more of an educational museum experience. Many of the exquisite artifacts for sale are produced by Native local artisans and are one-of-a-kind objects made from indigenous artifacts. Juneau is a picturesque town and we enjoyed leisurely walks through the quaint historic neighborhoods cascading up the mountainside; savored memorable seafood dinners in the local dining establishments; enjoyed an eclectic shopping experience in the diverse stores lining Franklin Street, the main thoroughfare; and even learned much about the colorful history of the region, and its indigenous people, in the Ju- Wine Dine & Travel <strong>2016</strong> 91