Tokyo Weekender - February 2017

FEBRUARY 2017 

Japan’s number one English language magazine 

THE PEOPLE OF 

OKINAWA 

MEET THREE LOCALS WHO REPRESENT THE COLORFUL 

AND CREATIVE ENERGY OF THE ISLANDS 

PLUS: Peek Inside Love Hotels, Snowsurfing in Fukushima, and Is Japan Biased Against Those with Disabilities?

24 

16 

28 

30 

radar 

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS 

8 AREA GUIDE: NAKAMEGURO 

Things to see on the banks of the Meguro 

River, including a brand-new "mall." 

10 STYLE 

A few pretty little things to help brighten 

up pre-spring days. 

12 BEAUTY 

Three moisturizing products and three head 

spa treatments to rescue tired tresses. 

in-depth 

COFFEE-BREAK READS 

15 THE PEOPLE OF OKINAWA 

We meet three talented locals who represent 

the colorful and creative energy of Okinawa. 

21 NAHA NIGHTS 

Planning a visit to Okinawa? Here are five 

reasons to choose Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower 

Naha as your luxurious base. 

24 BEHIND CLOSED DOORS 

As everyone everywhere celebrates love 

this month, we chat with photographer 

Zaza Bertrand about her new photo book, 

which reveals intimate moments from 

inside Japan's love hotels. 

28 JAPAN'S FORGOTTEN ONES 

Last year's Sagamihara massacre highlighted 

the country's ongoing bias against people 

with disabilities. We investigate the reasons 

behind the discrimination. 

30 SURFING THE SNOW 

Snowsurfing is enjoying a global revival, 

and Fukushima's powdery backcountry 

is the perfect place to try it. 

guide & 

education 

CULTURE ROUNDUP, AND OUR 

FEBRUARY EDUCATION SPECIAL 

34 ART & COMEDY 

Our pick of the city's best exhibitions, plus 

three comedy shows to keep you laughing. 

36 AGENDA 

Chocolate heaven, a stimulating projection 

mapping show, and a friendly fun run. 

38 EDUCATION SPECIAL 

How the British School in Tokyo is still 

achieving top results, and Aoba Japan International 

School is creating global citizens. 

42 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES 

National Day celebrations and a few fond 

farewells to old friends. 

FEBRUARY 2017

FEBRUARY 2017 

Publisher 

President 

Executive Producers 

Editor in Chief 

Senior Editor 

Creative Director 

Features Writer 

Contributors 

Sales Director 

Sales Executives 

Media Strategist 

Media Consultant 

Media Relations 

Media Producers 

ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

Takanobu Ushiyama 

Asi Rinestine 

Naoya Takahashi 

Annemarie Luck 

Alec Jordan 

Liam Ramshaw 

Matthew Hernon 

Vivian Morelli 

Luca Eandi 

Bill Hersey 

Bunny Bissoux 

Takaaki Murai 

Hirofumi Ohuchi 

Kahori Terakawa 

Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa 

Yu Suzuki 

Mandy Lynn 

Mary Rudow 

Junko Shimaya 

Jessica "Yumi" Idomoto 

Claudia Sun 

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 

SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku 

Tokyo, Japan 151-0051 

(03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax) 

editor@tokyoweekender.com 

To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call 

(03) 6432-9948 or email: 

customer-support@tokyoweekender.com 

For ad sales inquiries, please call 

(03) 6432-9948 or email: 

sales@tokyoweekender.com 

広告に関するお問い合わせ先 

電話 :(03) 6432-9948 

メール:sales@tokyoweekender.com 

Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors 

are not necessarily those of the publisher 

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

4 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER

@bapawn: Annemarie, if you had to choose between 

a tropical getaway in Okinawa or getting radical 

on the slopes of northern Honshu [page 30] for a 

February holiday, which would you choose? 

@mizrama: I would have to choose Okinawa, for two 

reasons: I will always pick beach over mountains, 

and I’ve only been skiing three times since moving 

to Japan, so “getting radical” is not really part of my 

repertoire on the slopes. How about you? 

@bapawn: Actually, I’ve never gone skiing or 

snowboarding before, so I only feel entitled to 

use the phrase “getting radical” because I’m from 

California … I think I’d take Okinawa as well. As 

much as the weather down there is lovely, the people 

seem so too. 

@mizrama: Yes, I think our cover feature [page 15] 

proves that. I love the story of karate master Masaaki 

Ikemiyagi … how he admits to getting into fights as a 

teen, but found humility through karate. I think our 

cover shot of him really expresses that. 

@bapawn: I still haven’t been, but it just seems 

like there’s some kind of mysterious romance to 

Okinawa. 

@mizrama: So Valentine’s month would be the 

perfect time to visit. It’s probably also a good time to 

visit a love hotel, for those who want to spice things 

up. Although Zaza Bertrand’s photo series about 

love hotels [page 26] does show them in a slightly 

different light to how they’re usually portrayed. 

@bapawn: That was a fascinating interview, and 

I’d really like to see more of her photo series. I 

thought her perspectives on this uniquely Japanese 

phenomenon were quite insightful. 

@mizrama: And the sheer number of them around town 

certainly contradict all those “sexless Japan” stories... 

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WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... 

Check out Nakameguro's new mall of restaurants under the railway, buy a little sexy 

something, and give your hair the attention it deserves. 

8 AREA GUIDE 10 STYLE 12 TRENDS 


AREA GUIDE 

OLD AND NEW 

IN NAKAMEGURO 

EVEN WHEN THE CHERRY TREES AREN’T IN BLOOM, THERE’S A BLOSSOMING 

COMMUNITY ON THE BANKS OF THE MEGURO RIVER, INCLUDING A BRAND- 

NEW SPACE UNDER THE RAILWAY FILLED WITH CUTE EATERIES 

Words and photographs by Luca Eandi 

A RIVER RUNS 

THROUGH IT 

One of Tokyo’s most scenic settings 

for hanami season, the Meguro 

River slices through Nakameguro, 

serving as the backbone of this thriving 

neighborhood. On top of being 

prime real estate for boutiques, 

restaurants and cafés, the riverside 

is a popular strolling path, as well as 

a pedestrian-friendly track for joggers 

and dog-walkers alike. Follow 

the river upstream to Meguro Sky 

Garden, by the Municipal Library, 

and you’ll be treated to a peaceful 

garden retreat 35 meters above the 

street with ample city views. Nearby, 

Saigoyama Park is an ideal green 

space for a sunny picnic, light sport 

activity or carefree people-watching. 

WHAT’S IN STORE 

The neighborhood’s businesses cater 

to artists, designers and celebrities 

who have put down roots here, making 

for an eclectic mix of boutiques. EEL 

sells high quality clothing like simple 

jeans, button-ups and jackets. The Mix 

has vintage men’s and women’s wear. 

1LDK carries local and international 

brands of outerwear and accessories, 

while Vase specializes in lesser-known 

European labels. Irma Records|Merch 

Store deals in vinyl along with their 

own unique branded merchandise. 

For knick-knacks, gifts and furnishings, 

Shop Detail has an array of quirky 

items. Tokyobike has a shop in the 

neighborhood to pick up some stylish 

wheels. And no visit to Nakameguro is 

complete without a visit to Cow Books 

for reading materials. 


RESTAURANTS 

Like any respectable Tokyo neighborhood, Nakameguro is teeming with great restaurants 

for a night out. Late last year, the selection grew even bigger with the opening of 

Nakameguro Koukashita (www.nakamegurokoukashita.jp), a 700m stretch of cafés, bars 

and eateries that runs underneath the raised railway tracks at Nakameguro Station. Here 

you can sample ramen, udon, sushi, Spanish cuisine, sake, and plenty of other culinary 

delights. Head away from the station to fine Craftale, which provides high-concept dining 

from a former Joël Robuchon chef. Along the same lines, Sourire does its version of 

Japanese-meets-French food. For something a little wilder, Yakiyama specializes in grilling 

game like pheasant, boar and deer. Xin Xian is a great spot for shabu-shabu, as is Kijima. 

Award-winning pizzaiolo Hisanori Yamamoto got his training in Naples, which makes his 

Da Isa Pizzeria as authentic as you’ll find in Tokyo. One of the best Mexican spots 

in the city, Junkadelic, will sate your craving for enchiladas. Sun 2 Diner deals in 

American standards like hamburgers, sandwiches and BBQ. 

GET HIP TO IT 

Nakameguro has a laid-back vibe 

within an urban setting, making it a 

natural fit for a younger, international, 

hip crowd. This translates into a 

remarkably high concentration of 

coffee shops in the neighborhood, 

including standouts Onibus, Streamer 

and a fresh branch of Blue Bottle. For 

coffee and books, head to the newly 

opened Nakameguro Koukashita 

where you can buy a latte and browse 

magazines at the sleek mini branch 

of Tsutaya Books. Charles Schulztribute 

Peanuts Cafe and the scenic 

Sidewalk Stand also offer up a tasty 

cup, as well as good lunch fare. For nut 

aficionados, Groovy Nuts is a specialty 

store serving raw and creatively 

flavored almonds, cashews, walnuts 

and more. There’s quite a few worldclass 

bakeries in the area as well – City 

Bakery, Ecole Criollo, Trasparente 

and Tavern, to name a few. 

OPEN HOUSE 

Kyu Asakura House sits in Daikanyama, a 

fashionable quarter bordering Nakameguro. 

The home and garden, commissioned in 

1919 by Torajiro Asakura, a chairman of the 

Metropolitan Assembly, was used to conduct 

business and entertain guests. It’s an important 

cultural property, as it is one of the few 

remaining wooden houses in the area that 

survived the 1923 Great Kantō earthquake 

and carpet bombings during World War II. 

The architecture incorporates elements from 

the Meiji, Taisho and Showa eras and endures 

as an ideal specimen for those styles. A bonus 

for thrifty visitors – the house and surrounding 

gardens can be visited for the admission 

fee of a mere ¥100. 


STYLE 

JIMMY CHOO STILETTOS 

February may be the shortest month, but it can feel like the longest. 

Therefore, bright and shiny things are needed to add some excitement 

to this otherwise dreary time of the year, like this pair of Jimmy Choo 

pumps. Crafted from smooth silver mirrored leather, they may seem a 

tad flashy at first sight, but they won't look out of place combined with 

a simple pair of jeans or little black dress. Equipped with a sleek stiletto 

heel and pointy toe, this classic Romy style won't, well, go out of style. 

jimmychoo.jp 

BRIGHTEN UP PRE-SPRING DAYS WITH 

SOMETHING SHINY, SOMETHING STYLISH, 

AND SOMETHING BLUE 

Compiled by Vivian Morelli 

LA PERLA CHEMISE 

When it comes to lingerie, La Perla is 

the epitome of luxury. Instilled with a 

“made in Italy” heritage, the brand is 

synonymous with femininity, elegance 

and sophistication. This pale blue 

chemise is the perfect example of the 

label's skillful corsetry and meticulous 

detailing. Designed to hug your curves 

in all the right places, this piece is made 

from silky soft jersey and trimmed with 

lace. Pair it with the matching bra and 

briefs for an impeccable look. 

laperla.com

TOM FORD PERFUME 

You will be tempted to buy this not only based on the scent, but on 

the dreamy look of the bottle. Suitable for both men and women, 

this Tom Ford fragrance was inspired by the luxurious Italian 

Riviera resort of Portofino. Just like the coveted vacation spot, it 

oozes opulence and old-school glamour. The turquoise bottle is 

reminiscent of the Mediterranean Sea, and the top notes of this 

citrusy perfume are bergamot, orange, lemon and lavender. 

tomford.com 

SMYTHSON CURRENCY CASE 

Smythson, known for its sumptuous stationery and leather 

goods, is once again winning at the accessories game with this 

color-trimmed and gold-zippered currency case. Ideal for the 

frequent traveler, it can be used to organize the different types 

of notes needed when hopping from one country to another. 

It's also big enough to hold a passport, so this might be the 

most practical yet stylish airport companion. 

smythson.com 

ISABEL MARANT 

ETOILE SCARF 

Although spring is right around the 

corner, there are still many weeks 

of cold weather ahead, and even 

though you promised yourself 

you won't be buying any more 

winter accessories, you might 

change your mind with this scarf. 

Made from a blend of wool and 

cashmere, this frayed scarf from 

Isabel Marant's Etoile collection is 

a vivid mix of red, beige and black 

yarns. It will keep you warm until 

the start of spring, and probably 

even through hanami season. 

isabelmarant.com0 

LA MER EYE GEL 

It's never a bad idea to pamper your skin, 

especially the delicate area around your eyes, 

during winter. The cold temperatures can leave 

your skin parched, and late nights out tend to 

easily show their effects. This hydrating eye gel 

from iconic skin care line La Mer comes to the 

rescue, as it combats signs of aging, fatigue and 

stress. Dab a tiny amount around your eyes 

morning and evening, and let the cooling effect 

soothe and revitalize your skin. 

cremedelamer.com

BEAUTY 

OWAY COLORUP BY ROLLAND 

Perfect for color-treated hair is Oway’s all-natural, biodynamic and organic 

ColorUp Color Protection range. The Hair Mask and Veil contain biodynamic 

red grapevine and organic goji berries to revitalize hair fiber, retain color 

vibrancy and slow down hair aging – all this whilst keeping your hair soft and 

beautiful. For optimal results, we recommend the Hair Bath too, as it deeply 

cleanses and softens. Bonus: you’ll leave the house smelling like sweet plum – 

what’s not to love? Hair Bath, ¥3,400, Hair Mask, ¥3,200, Veil, ¥3,600, available 

from Assort Hair or via rolland-organic-onlineshop.office-taxi.jp. 

More information at rolland.jp 

GOOD HAIR DAYS 

IT’S NOT JUST SKIN THAT NEEDS AN EXTRA DOSE OF LOVE 

AND MOISTURE DURING WINTER. TRY THESE PRODUCTS 

AND HEAD SPA TREATMENTS FOR SHINIER, HAPPIER HAIR 

Compiled by Mandy Lynn and Annemarie Luck 

LORETTA BASE CARE 

OIL BY MOLTOBENE 

Japanese hair-care range Loretta, 

which features a line of waxes, styling 

milks, and oils, was originally created 

for use in hair salons, so know that the 

price tag indicates professional-grade 

quality. Their Base Care Oil is a leave-in 

treatment that has a soft rose fragrance 

(aromatherapy bonus!) and is super 

nourishing and moisturizing, helping 

to keep hair sleek and shiny all day. 

¥2,600, www.loretta-jp.com

PREMIUM 

HEAD SPA AT 

ASSORT HAIR 

Taking luxury to a new 

level is international hair 

salon Assort Hair, with 

its Premium Head Spa 

that uses 100% organic 

and natural products by 

fair trade brand Oway 

(see products on opposite 

page). A hair consultation 

first determines the best 

suited products for you, 

after which you are treated 

to an application of scalp 

treatment oils, a special 

shampoo and treatment 

massage, and – the best 

part – a head and shoulder 

massage so relaxing we 

drifted off to Dreamland 

on our visit. ¥6,000, 

www.assort-hair.com 

FLOW HEAD SPA AT 

VIP CREATIVE 

If stress is keeping you up at night, 

VIP Creative’s Flow Head Spa is 

just what you need. More than the 

usual feel-good treatment, this one 

incorporates traditional massage 

methods to relieve muscle stiffness, 

promote blood flow, and awaken the 

parasympathetic nervous system to 

ease you into a relaxed state whilst 

improving the body’s immune system. 

From ¥4,000, www.vipcreativehair.jp 

JEMILE FRAN MELTY 

BUTTER BY MILBON 

Launched last year, Japanese beauty 

brand Jemile Fran’s Melty Butter 

Balm and Melty Butter Beautifying 

Hair Treatment are ideal for the 

busy working lady – hair care that 

doubles up as a hair styling product. 

The latter is great if you’re going 

for naturally loose curls, while the 

balm offers higher holding power. 

Containing moringa butter, these 

treatments stimulate your scalp by 

increasing blood circulation whilst 

leaving your hair silky smooth. 

Melty Butter Balm, ¥2,200, Melty 

Butter Beautifying Hair Treatment, 

¥2,000, available at Hair Salon NALU 

or via www.jemilefran.jp 

Special offer for first-time customers: 

Mention “Tokyo Weekender” to 

receive 20% off your treatment, or a 

complimentary Kerastase treatment 

(worth ¥3,000). 

ULTRASONIC IRON 

TREATMENT AT HAIR 

SALON NALU 

While most iron treatments use heat, 

the Ultrasonic Iron Treatment at 

NALU uses intense vibrations (37,000 

beats per second!) to separate protein, 

water and oil particles, allowing for 

deeper penetration into the hair 

structure, resulting in softer, more 

manageable locks. Recommended for 

hair damaged by chemicals. ¥7,560, 

www.nalu-style.com 

Follow us on Instagram 

@tokyoweekender to win a customized 

hair treatment at Hair Salon NALU.

Where to find 

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ISLAND CHARM 

There's more to Okinawa's beauty than meets the eye – there's a special kind of warmth 

and creativity in the people who live there. Over the next few pages we introduce you 

to three spirited locals who are helping to put the prefecture on the global map. 


[ PROMOTION ] 

THE PEOPLE 

OF OKINAWA 

The islands of Okinawa are having a moment: tourist numbers are climbing as the 

world catches on to the prefecture's unspoilt beauty. But aside from its lush green 

nature and crystal clear ocean, what makes Okinawa so alluring? It's the people, of 

course. Weekender recently met three talented locals who represent the colorful and 

creative energy of the islands. Allow us to introduce you... 

Words by John Amari 

OKINAWAN 

KARATE IS MORE 

THAN MARTIAL 

ARTS. IT IS A WAY 

OF CULTIVATING 

THE SPIRIT 


Photos by Richard Lee 

THE KARATE MASTER: 

MASAAKI IKEMIYAGI 

Masaaki Ikemiyagi has an easy-going manner, 

but he was not always this jovial. By his 

own admission, he was a bit of a tearaway 

in his youth. Slight but feisty, the young 

Ikemiyagi was not one to back down from 

a fight. “I’m physically small. So I wanted to 

level the playing field, even with people who 

were larger than me.” 

As a teen, he took up karate, joining a dojo 

(martial arts gym) in Naha, Okinawa, not far 

from his hometown, Nago City. Ikemiyagi’s 

parents were worried: wouldn't karate lead 

their boy further into trouble? But rather than 

encourage mayhem, training in karate leads 

to self-control, explains Ikemiyagi, who is 

now a master of Goju-ryu karate and teaches 

thousands of students from around the world. 

“Thanks to karate, I became humble.” 

Okinawa is the birthplace of karate. It is 

an indigenous art with a heritage that goes 

back to the local Ryukyu Kingdom (15th to 

19th century). “Okinawan karate is more 

than martial arts,” says Master Ikemiyagi. 

“It addresses the mind and body and teaches 

tenacity and dignity. It is a way of cultivating 

the spirit.” It's hard to believe that 

this gentle, welcoming 63-year-old was once 

a troublemaker. But there is another, more 

serious side to the Master, which unveils 

itself after he and I spend a few minutes 

engaging in kumite (free sparring)... 

I throw a jab. Master Ikemiyagi parries 

and shifts out of the way like a cat. His left 

hand simultaneously clamps my outstretched 

arm in a vice-like grip, his right 

delivers a series of lightning strikes towards 

my neck. It's all a blur. Thankfully, this is 

not mortal combat. Shaken, but still standing, 

I throw a kick. The Master blocks with 

his right leg, and, using the same leg, strikes 

at the back of my standing leg, throwing me 

off balance. I feel completely at his mercy. 

Master Ikemiyagi has a personality 

so magnetic that he may as well be 6 foot 

5 inches tall. While small in stature, he is 

built like an ox; he kicks like a mule. When 

we move to the side of the dojo, where free 

weights, a punching bag, and a makiwara 

(a traditional, wooden “punch-pole”) are located, 

I discover something else about him: 

“I have a pretty strong punch, you know.” I 

believe him. His knuckles are calloused and 

bulbous. And when he 

punches the makiwara, 

the ground shakes. 

Next, we sit at a 

low table next to the 

dojo, which he built 

himself 37 years ago. I 

watch him, dressed in a 

white do-gi (martial arts 

uniform), as he gently 

but precisely draws Japanese 

calligraphy. His 

posture is erect, his legs 

folded beneath him. The 

Master’s favorite saying 

comes back to me, and 

it reflects why he loves 

karate: “When a flexible person defeats 

a strong person.” 

I WANT PEOPLE 

TO ALSO SAY 

KUSUINATAN, 

AN OKINAWA 

SAYING THAT 

MEANS KUSURINI 

NARIMASHITA (THE 

FOOD BECAME 

MEDICINAL) 

THE CULINARY QUEEN: 

KATSUE WATANABE 

Katsue Watanabe is on a mission. She wants 

the world to know the secrets of Okinawan 

food and longevity. She also wants you not 

just to enjoy the region’s offerings, but to 

revel in their unique qualities. “Rather than 

just saying gochisousama (that was delicious), 

I want people to also say kusuinatan, 

an Okinawan saying that means kusurini 

narimashita (this food was good medicine).” 

The people of Okinawa are rightfully 

proud of their legendary lifespans: the 

prefecture has some of the highest longevity 

indices on Earth. Watanabe believes there 

are two reasons for this. The first is their 

approach to life: “‘Que sera, sera.' (What 

will be, will be.) Whether it’s a good or bad 

thing, that is our mentality. It contributes to 

our good health.” The second is Okinawan 

food. On a large table in Watanabe’s family-run 

hotel, 50 different items are immaculately 

laid out. The entire energy count is 

585 calories, the equivalent of one anpan 

(a sweet roll filled with red bean paste). 

Where to begin? I reach for a small 

glass of handmade soy milk. It’s almost 

like pure white water. I reach for another 

drink, an Okinawan citrus juice, which is 

fresh and has a bitter yet enjoyable kick to 

it. From what I can tell, each item seems 

like it’s part food, part medicine. Watanabe 

explains: “Our carrots contain more beta 

carotene than carrots anywhere else. Over 

here, you have fish, celery, purple potato, 

blue papaya...” 

Further along, there are scallions, and 

handama, which is an Okinawan herb that 

locals refer to as nuchigusui (Okinawan 

dialect meaning “medicine for the soul” 

as it aids blood circulation and increases 

longevity). Light, fluffy pink bread is within 

reach, so I grab it and break off three 

pieces. I spread yellow ukon (turmeric), 

white sesame jam, and blueberry jam on 

each. It's a colorful, delicious dance of 

flavors. The fruit and vegetables are next 

– Luffa aegyptiaca (Egyptian cucumber), 

raw mozuku (sea weed), ozenzai (red bean 

soup), tougan (ash gourd), and yushidoufu 

(soft tofu) soup. I savor every morsel. 


[ PROMOTION ] 

THE SOIL HERE 

IS GENTLE, SO 

THE KINDNESS OF 

OKINAWAN PEOPLE 

IS EXPRESSED IN 

OUR POTTERY 

Watanabe tells me that the level of ultraviolet 

rays in Okinawa, which can be four times 

higher than in other parts of the country, 

make for vegetables that are rich in vitamins. 

Moreover, gusts of wind from the ocean 

ensure the island’s soils are saturated with 

nutrients and minerals. 

Watanabe’s breakfast is inspired. But 

how did it all begin? Some 40 years ago, her 

mother traveled to Europe and the US. To 

her surprise, she found that many places 

offered the same breakfast she did in her 

hotel: bacon, toast, coffee and so on. Rather 

than continue serving that same breakfast, 

Watanabe’s mother chose an original 

approach. For inspiration, she relied on her 

own mother’s cooking. Yakuzen choushoku 

(breakfast with 50 pickled items) was born. 

Today, Watanabe – who has a medicinal 

cooking certificate – is the manager of 

her family’s 63 year-old hotel, the Okinawa 

Daiichi Hotel. She is also the custodian of her 

family’s culinary culture, and her customers 

from around the world come not just to enjoy 

her meals, but to discover the secret at the 

heart of good living in Okinawa. 

THE POTTERY PRINCESS: 

YUMIKO KINJO 

Few things are as quintessentially Okinawan 

as ceramics. The tradition goes back centuries, 

having reached the Ryukyu Islands 

via the Silk Road and China. For Yumiko 

Kinjo, pottery is in the family line. Thanks 

to her architect father, her home was filled 

not just with ceramics but also traditional 

crafts. “When I went to college in Okinawa, I 

decided to study pottery, and my professors 

introduced me to different styles. That was 

how my passion grew,” she says. 

At first, Kinjo was inspired to make earthenware 

as she had a love for monotones. That 

would change, however, when she entered 

her forties. “That’s 

when I started adding 

colors.” Today, pottery 

is as much a part of 

her life as the air that 

she breathes. Indeed, 

much of her inspiration 

comes from the 

nature and culture of 

Okinawa itself. “The 

sunlight is very strong 

in Okinawa and it 

affects everything 

here – the sky and the 

flowers are vibrant.” 

An avid traveler, 

Kinjo is also inspired 

by her overseas trips. 

“I like going abroad 

to enjoy different 

types of nature. The 

colors in Northern Europe, for example, are 

completely different to those here.” It is little 

wonder that some of Kinjo’s biggest successes 

have been overseas, where she has held exhibitions. 

“The response was great in Taiwan 

and South Korea. Lots of people say, ‘I’ve 

never seen anything like this.’” 

Prevailing trends are another source of 

her inspiration. Recently, there has been a 

revival of traditional styles in Okinawa, which 

tend to favor monotones, but colors are also 

back in vogue. Before pottery became a popular 

art form in Okinawa, urushi (lacquer work) 

with its bright hues was one of the preeminent 

crafts. In part due to the soil of the island 

– “which is soft, just like its people" – pottery 

began to gain in popularity. “The soil here is 

gentle, so the kindness of Okinawan people is 

expressed in our pottery.” 

Seven years ago, Kinjo and her co-creators 

established a workshop and display space in 

Okinawa called Tituti (www.tituti.net). “The ti 

in Tituti means te (hand). Tsukurite refers to 

the artists or producers of the ceramics, while 

tsunagite is a reference to the visitors who 

connect with our work.” With non-Japanese 

and younger visitors on the rise, Kinjo says 

she would like to see more people taking up 

the art. 

But where do you start? Easy. “Imagine 

who you want to make the pottery for. It could 

be a loved one – perhaps your grandma. Then, 

imagine how they would hold it. Size is really 

important. It is easy to make the pottery, once 

you know whom you want to make it for.” 


[ PROMOTION ] 

The Next 

Best Thing 

Weekender joined ANTOR-Japan’s glittering end-of-year 

party to learn more about the country’s future tourism 

goals, and how Okinawa, specifically, aims to transform 

itself into the next best international resort 

Even if you haven’t yet 

traveled to Okinawa, you’ll 

have heard about a few key 

features that set the prefecture 

apart from others. 

At ANTOR-Japan’s 50th anniversary and 

Christmas party, held on December 6 at 

Oakwood Premier’s luxurious lounge in 

Tokyo Midtown, guests were treated to a 

number of these cultural characteristics: 

we dined on local cuisine including a dish 

of goya (bitter melon); we swayed along to 

the sounds of a sanshin played by a local 

musician; and we marveled at the karate 

techniques performed by Master Akihito 

Yagi of the International Meibukan Gojyu-ryu 

Association. 

But while the focus of the event was 

on all things Okinawan, we also learnt 

that ANTOR-Japan – which stands for The 

Association of National Tourist Office 

Representatives in Japan – is taking steps 

to improve Japan’s understanding of 

international tourism. Every year, for 

example, the group organizes a travel 

fair called “Let’s Go Kaigai!” to help and 

encourage and develop the industry. Established 

in 1966, the association is made 

up of national tourist 

office representatives, 

has welcomed Mr. 

Edouard Tripkovic 

Katayama as the chairman 

in 2015. 

Speaking at the 

event, Katayama said, 

“Tourism is an important 

economic generator, 

reaching almost 10 

percent of gross GDP, 

and forecasted to continue 

growing in the 

coming decades.” Last 

year, Katayama was 

instrumental in founding 

the Antor Peace 

Movement 21 project, 

which stresses the importance 

of peace, not only in the tourism 

industry, but for our overall wellbeing. 

“One of our aims is to connect people … 

Exchange and collaboration are necessary 

to achieve better understanding between 

people,” he went on to say. “And from this 

year, we started active collaboration with 

Japanese local governments, to increase 

awareness of inbound and outbound 

travelers.” 

As the evening wound to a close, 

Weekender took a few minutes to 

chat with Takao Kadekaru, the Senior 

Executive Director of the Okinawa 

Convention and Visitors Bureau, 

to find out more about Okinawa’s 

growing tourism industry and their 

plans for the future. 

HOW MANY TOURISTS VISIT OKINAWA 

EACH YEAR? 

For fiscal year 2015, our total number of tourists 

reached 7.94 million, with 20 percent of these 

being from abroad. This is a big increase, as just 

five or six years ago, inbound tourism made up 

only five percent of the total. For 2016, we are 

hoping to have reached 8.4 million. 

WHY DO YOU THINK OKINAWA 

IS BECOMING SUCH A POPULAR 

DESTINATION? 

Not only do we have beautiful nature and the 

ocean, but we also have a wonderful traditional 

culture. Moreover, we have a subtropical 

climate, which means the average temperature 

is 23 degrees Celsius. A lot of tourists visit 

during winter for a summer experience, or to 

take advantage of our golf courses year round. 

In Okinawa, you never need to wear a coat. 

WHAT’S YOUR MAIN TOURISM GOAL FOR 

THE FUTURE? 

To become a top international resort. 

FOR FIRST-TIME VISITORS, WHICH OF 

THE ISLANDS DO YOU RECOMMEND? 

There are 160 islands in Okinawa, and only 40 

of them are inhabited. Each one has its own 

atmosphere, but if it’s your first time visiting, 

I’d recommend Ishigaki, Miyakojima, and the 

Kerama islands. 

WHAT’S THE MAIN DIFFERENCE 

BETWEEN OKINAWAN AND JAPANESE 

PEOPLE? 

We have a special kind of hospitality in 

Okinawa. I also think that, because we have had 

the chance to deal a lot with foreign countries, 

tourists will find it easier to communicate with 

Okinawan people than with Japanese people. 

Come visit, you’ll see! [laughs] 


[ PROMOTION ] 

NAHA NIGHTS 

Planning a visit to Okinawa? Here are five reasons to choose Loisir Hotel 

& Spa Tower Naha as your luxurious base for rest and relaxation 

Whether you’re heading to 

the islands to discover 

more about Okinawa’s 

secrets to longevity, to 

shop for local ceramics, or perhaps 

even to take a karate lesson with Master 

Masaaki Ikemiyagi (see page 18), you can 

turn your break into a grand getaway by 

booking a few nights at Loisir Hotel & Spa 

Tower Naha, located just a seven-minute 

drive from Naha Airport and overlooking 

the bright blue ocean. Here are just some 

of the hotel’s highlights… 

Besides feeling like a mini paradise, 

the spa is also a place for rejuvenation. 

Inspired by Indian Ayurveda as well as 

Ryukyu traditions, the treatments speak 

to all five senses. Ayurveda is one of 

the world’s oldest whole-body healing 

systems, and helps to bring mind, body 

and spirit into balance. CHURASPA 

incorporates this science into its 

treatments through the use of herbs, 

essential oils, and massage techniques, 

while also integrating local knowledge 

of Okinawan herbs and treatments, 

providing a holistic experience that will 

appeal to those looking for more than 

just your everyday beauty therapy. 

CHURASPA IS AN AWARD- 

WINNING HEALING OASIS 

INSPIRED BY SMART AYURVEDA 

In 2016, the hotel’s CHURASPA won a 

coveted World Luxury Spa Award, which 

is the pinnacle of achievement for luxury 

spas worldwide. The award acknowledges 

establishments that go above and beyond 

the norms of customer service, which is 

something CHURASPA prides itself on. 

From the inviting, softly lit ambience to the 

careful combination of treatments, every 

detail is perfectly planned. 


THE HOT SPRING 

COMES FROM 

FOSSIL SEA WATER 

To round off your relaxation, 

be sure to take a dip 

in the hotel’s natural hot 

spring, which boasts revitalizing 

water sourced from 

fossil sea water that gushes 

out from 800 meters under 

ground. This “gift from the 

sea” is the only open-air, 

free-flowing natural hot 

spring in Naha, and its mineral 

contents – which cause 

the water to be salty – are 

completely different from 

the volcanic hot springs 

found elsewhere in Japan. 

As for its beauty benefits, 

the salt clings to the skin 

after bathing, preventing 

evaporation of sweat for a 

heat-retaining effect, moisturizing 

the skin as a result. 

YOU CAN DO ALL YOUR SHOPPING RIGHT HERE 

If you’re pressed for time, or you simply don’t feel like breaking the mood of your perfect 

hotel stay, you don’t have to go far to pick up a few essential souvenirs. Loisir Hotel & Spa 

Tower Naha has its very own shopping plaza, open from 7am to 10pm, and featuring all 

kinds of Okinawan goodies such as Ryukyu glass, folk craft items, shisa (Okinawan lions), 

awamori liquor, and Ryukyu confectionery. There’s also plenty of fashion to browse, and a 

convenience store for all those daily necessities – so there’s really no need to ever leave. 

THE ROOMS HAVE 

HAD A MAKEOVER 

Last year, a selection of 

suites at Loisir Hotel & Spa 

Tower Naha were treated to 

an upgrade, with the grand 

unveiling being in July 2016. 

All the rooms in the hotel 

feature expansive views 

either over the bay or city, 

and a natural hot spring bath, 

providing that extra dose 

of luxury and relaxation. 

And the Okinawan-flavored 

décor – which includes 

special touches such as 

local Yachimun pottery and 

Ryukyu grass – highlights the 

tropical atmosphere. There 

are plenty of different options 

for all budgets, from the Spa 

Deluxe Twin Bay View, which 

includes a “bath with a view” 

and a spacious balcony, to 

the Japanese Room City View, 

which gives you a touch of 

modern Japanese-style décor. 

THE CUISINE IS AS CREATIVE AS 

IT IS DELICIOUS 

With three restaurants and a top-floor bar to choose 

from, you’re spoilt for choice. To enjoy Japanese, 

Chinese and Okinawan cuisine with roots in Ryukyu 

history, book a table at Ryukyu Dining HANAFU. This 

restaurant gets its name from a traditional Ryukyu 

folk dance staged at the historical Miegusuku landmark. 

For all-day dining, there’s All Day Dining FON- 

TAINE, which boasts a sunlit terrace; and for a casual 

poolside barbecue go to Sunset Terrace PAPILLON. 

Finally, end your evening off with a cocktail at Bar 

Planete, where the glittering night-time scenery will 

take your breath away. 

CONTACT 

Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower Naha, 3-2-1 Nishi, 

Naha-shi, Okinawa | Tel: 098 868 2222 

Web: www.solarehotels.com/en/hotel/okinawa/ 

loisir-naha/ 

www.solarehotels.com/en/hotel/okinawa/spatower/ 


Sheraton Okinawa Sunmarina Resort is currently expanding the 

property with brand-new facilities and activities that are all 

scheduled to be completed this spring. 

The South Tower, which opened in December 2016, consists of 

46 luxury rooms all with amazing ocean views, the ocean-front 

restaurant “The Grill” and the “Sunset Bar & Terrace” – both of 

which offer the best selection of food and drinks on the island – 

and the “Ashibina” game room. Other facilities including a new 

wellness center with an indoor pool, gym, Japanese bath and spa, 

opened in January 2017 along with the “MegaZip” zipline and “Go 

Fall” freefall activities. The project will be completed with the 

opening of the ocean view chapel in March 2017. 

Enjoy all that we have to offer and let us help make your stay 

the best holiday ever! 

DECEMBER 2016 OPEN / South Tower 

DECEMBER 2016 OPEN / The Grill

Behind 

Closed Doors 

As everyone everywhere celebrates love this month, we chat with 

Belgian photographer Zaza Bertrand about her new award-winning 

photo series, Japanese Whispers, which reveals intimate moments 

from inside Japan’s infamous love hotels 

Words by Bunny Bissoux 


Whether regarded as a seedy 

remnant of bubble era 

nightlife or a functional 

convenience for couples 

in need of privacy and discretion, love 

hotels remain a profitable and necessary 

part of the Japanese landscape. From 

cheating lovers, or married couples 

seeking solace from their compact 

family homes, to lovestruck youths with 

nowhere else to go, and overworked 

businessmen forced to schedule their 

amorous pursuits, the visitors to love 

hotels come from all walks of life. 

When the establishments first 

appeared around the 1970s, they were 

known for their eye-catching decor, 

themed rooms and titillating playfulness. 

In recent years, the gaudiness has been 

toned down, with state-of-the-art facilities 

and abundant amenities replacing 

novelty value as the prime selling point. 

This evolution is a combination of changing 

tastes and wavering demands as well 

as the consequence of increasingly complex 

licensing restrictions. These hotels 

stand brazenly in plain sight across the 

country, and yet for many they remain 

somewhat of a taboo. 

Belgian photographer Zaza Bertrand’s 

award-winning Japanese 

Whispers photo series offers an unusual 

glimpse behind the closed doors, documenting 

the hotels and the people who 

use them. Other photographers who’ve 

focused on love hotels have tended to 

concentrate their interest on the physical 

spaces, the kitschy interiors, exoticizing 

the unfamiliar, and presenting the 

rooms as no more than quirky locations. 

However, Bertrand’s pictures selectively 

capture her own encounters, displaying 

real slices of humanity with an atmospheric 

poignancy conveyed in sometimes 

cinematic composition. 

Intimacy plays a prominent role in 

all of Bertrand’s work, with her portfolio 

I DIDN’T KNOW 

WHAT TO EXPECT; 

I DIDN’T CHOOSE 

THE PEOPLE. 

WHOEVER WANTED 

TO PARTICIPATE, 

I PHOTOGRAPHED 

… I JUST WANTED 

IT TO BE REAL 

cementing an ongoing theme of interaction and human 

contact. Having previously photographed young people 

around Europe, Egypt and Panama, it was in 2011 that 

she first visited Japan. “People were very open ... very 

sexual and physical in Panama ... I wanted to go somewhere 

that’s not the same,” she explains. Immediately 

intrigued by the manners and social behavior of the 

Japanese people, she soon became curious about the 

industries dealing with an apparent disconnect between 

natural desires and people’s ability to openly and honestly 

express themselves. Love hotels, hostess bars, cuddle 

cafés, crying therapy – Japan has conveniently created 

alternative solutions to a multitude of modern day 

problems, debatably at the expense of nurturing healthy 

organic relationships. 

Bertrand speaks fondly of Japan, inspired by the 

perfection and attention to detail, which is so different 

from her own easy-going European upbringing. She is 

fascinated by what she perceives as organization and 

control of basic human needs. “I found it interesting ... 

[they] don’t always have a lot of time for basic emotions 

in [their] life, so there’s been something created just for 

that,” she says, voicing her thoughts on love hotels and 

cuddle cafés. “That things like that can be organized, to 

me that’s not so natural.” 

The strangeness of the love hotel system, this 

pre-planned arrangement of emotions and behavior, 

is manifested in a kind of tension; one you can surely 

experience firsthand should you ever find yourself 

inside such an establishment, and one that intrigued the 

photographer and is apparent in her images. “You get 

this pressure when you enter the hotel, you can sense it 

in the air, people go there for one purpose ... everything 

is kind of fake. Sometimes when you make love, it just 

happens and you don’t need to plan it, but here it’s all 

so specific and predetermined.” 

The photographs were taken during two trips to 

Japan, in 2014 and 2016, before and after the birth of 

her son. She first stayed in Fukuoka and later in Tokyo, 

employing the help of friends to try and negotiate 

subjects who would be comfortable being photographed. 

They initially approached couples directly at the hotel 

entrances, offering to pay for the price of the room, but 


after this proved largely unsuccessful they resorted to advertising 

online. “I didn’t know what to expect; I didn't choose 

the people. Whoever wanted to participate, I photographed; 

gay people, pretty people, ugly people, it didn’t matter, I just 

wanted it to be real ... not a fictional story.” 

Where Bertrand’s previous projects have all included 

a sense of communal living, depicting lives messily intertwined 

and connected to their surroundings, Japanese 

Whispers is unique in its remoteness. The scenes are sparse 

and detached. The shots featuring models drag the viewer’s 

gaze to focus on the subjects, allowing us to enter this private 

space with them. That previously mentioned tension is what 

ultimately contributes to the mystique of the love hotel; 

whether your overarching view is positive or negative, that 

tensity can be read as anything from unsettling anxiety to 

bubbling anticipation. Even for a “normal,” steady couple, 

the time limit and designated location would make an event 

out of something that generally happens more spontaneously. 

Whether or not that sounds appealing is down to the 

individual. There is a general misconception that love hotels 

perpetuate a separation of love and sex, but to generalize 

that there is no love inside the hotels is as misguided as to 

believe love and sex only exist in one definable combination. 

The reality of shooting such intimate scenes could easily 

become awkward or embarrassing for the parties involved, 

but it was more the unfamiliar way of working that Bertrand 

found challenging. For her previous projects, Bertrand spent 

long periods of time together with her subjects, getting close to 

them until she completely blended in. This uninhibited access 

allowed her to capture something candid and personal, as 

she states: “After a while people forget I'm there. I can’t really 

explain how I do it, but I become invisible, and then I take 

photographs.” Inspired by the work of iconic French photographer 

Henri Cartier-Bresson, Bertrand is used to waiting for the 

perfect moment to appear, with scenes changing as multiple 

aspects come together all at once. In contrast, the shoots at the 

love hotels were all pre-arranged: “They were appointments 

and only one hour each, so a very different way of working; 

I wasn't invisible, I was very present in the room.” Some 

people shyly waited for her orders, expecting her to direct 

them, for others the thrill of exhibitionism perhaps altered 


SOMETIMES WHEN YOU 

MAKE LOVE, IT JUST 

HAPPENS AND YOU DON’T 

NEED TO PLAN IT, BUT HERE 

IT’S ALL SO SPECIFIC AND 

PREDETERMINED 

their actions or mannerisms, but Bertrand aimed 

to capture something as unaffected as possible. She 

didn’t choose the people or their clothes or even the 

specific hotels – the models had complete autonomy 

and thus the series should be considered on the 

spectrum of documentary photography, without 

any journalistic intention. “It was more like creating 

an image, in time and space, of the people who 

would pay money to go and make love.” 

The necessity to be so concentrated on the 

scene in front of her was a big experience for the 

photographer who describes some of the process 

as seeming “like a movie,” the final pictures having 

a filmic quality enhanced by the low lighting and 

mood. “I was out of my comfort zone and I really 

enjoyed it. It’s like a new door that opened for me.” 

BUY THE BOOK 

Japanese Whispers by Zaza Bertrand 

is published by Art Paper Editions 

and available for €30.00 (¥3,625) from 

www.artpapereditions.org (worldwide 

shipping offered). For more 

information about and work by the 

photographer, visit zazabertrand.com 

In addition to exploring this new way of working 

in her future projects, Bertrand hopes to have the 

opportunity to show her recent series to a Japanese 

audience through an exhibition. She’s curious about 

the reaction she might receive, wondering if people 

will be shocked, or even interested. Undoubtedly, 

few people would resist the chance to peek inside 

such a provocative private world, but moreover, art 

often brings a chance for people to see everyday 

details and events presented as something extraordinary 

or profound. For those who have grown up 

alongside these places as part of the mundane, or for 

foreigners who perhaps have only a fleeting interest 

in the subject, Japanese Whispers provides rare 

glimpses of both tender intimacy and cold isolation 

which, in any society, are so often overlooked. 


JAPAN’S 

FORGOTTEN 

ONES 

Last year’s Sagamihara massacre was Japan’s deadliest mass killing 

since World War II, and it put the country’s bias against people with 

disabilities in the spotlight. Matthew Hernon looks at the reasons behind 

the discrimination, and what’s being done to help change attitudes 

Nameless and faceless: That’s how the 

victims of the Sagamihara massacre will 

forever remain in the eyes of the public. 

The abhorrent act, which ended the lives 

of 19 residents at the Tsukui Yamahiro En (Tsukui 

Lily Garden) care facility for people with intellectual 

disabilities was committed by 26-year-old ableist 

Satoshi Uematsu. A former employee at the center, 

he'd previously written about killing hundreds of 

disabled people “for the sake of Japan and world 

peace,” in a letter given to the speaker of the Diet's 

lower house. 

Inspired by Nazi eugenics, the multiplemurderer 

has been given the media platform he 

seems to crave, yet very little information – only 

that there were 10 women and nine men, aged 

between 19 and 80 – has been conveyed about those 

he killed. The Kanagawa police decided against 

giving more details to protect the families who may 

be worried about discrimination. The decision has 


intensified the debate in Japan concerning 

attitudes towards physically and 

cognitively impaired persons. 

“Not showing their names and faces is 

basically like denying them their humanity,” 

says author Suzanne Kamata, whose 

daughter Lilia has cerebral palsy and 

is profoundly deaf. “Following terrorist 

attacks in Nice and Orlando I remember 

reading a lot about what the victims 

were like and what they enjoyed doing. 

Obviously, we couldn't do that after the 

Sagamihara incident, which I felt was 

wrong. Also, it didn’t receive the same 

kind of attention as other tragedies. There 

were no hashtags on Twitter or things 

like that. As a news story, it seemed to die 

down quite quickly.” 

Kamata's views are shared by many, 

including New York–based filmmaker 

Kazuhiro Soda, who in 2007 directed the 

critically acclaimed documentary Seishin 

(Mental) about an outpatient mental 

health clinic in Okayama. “Of course, the 

will of victims’ family members should 

be respected,” Soda tells us. “However, 

from what I understand in the case of 

Sagamihara it was the police that decided 

not to publicize the names of those killed 

because of their disabilities. I find that 

disturbing and discriminative. I imagine 

some of the families wanted to talk openly 

about the deceased. Without their stories 

the victims remain faceless, making it 

harder for the public to feel sympathy 

towards them. 

“There are so many people suffering 

from mental disorders, but because of the 

shame attached they choose not to discuss 

their problems. They are illnesses that 

could affect anyone. I realized this while 

working in Tokyo for two months when 

I was screamed at by producers and regularly 

had to stay at the office overnight. 

The working conditions here are stressful 

enough to make the most laid-back person 

snap, and that was one of the reasons 

I wanted to make Seishin. I was strict 

about not blurring out the patients’ faces 

as is the case with most documentaries. 

In order to have an open discussion, they 

should be visible.” 

Slightly encouraged by the progress 

that’s being made, Soda believes mental 

illness is becoming less of a taboo 

in Japan. This is partly down to several 

government initiatives including various 

educational programs on the topic. Furthermore, 

in April 2016 a new law was enacted 

aimed at eliminating discrimination 

against individuals with either physical 

or cognitive disabilities. Whilst a little 

vague regarding what constitutes discrimination, 

the legislation, which will be 

reviewed in three years, was unquestionably 

a step in the right direction. So was 

the amendment of the Act on Employment 

Promotion of Persons with Disabilities 

back in 2013, which raised the legal employment 

quota for people with disabilities 

from 1.8% to 2.0%. While many 

companies still fall below that number, 

the employment rate of individuals with 

disabilities has continued to grow year 

by year over the past decade. 

One organization certainly playing 

its part is Pasona Heartful. A special 

exemption company of the Pasona Group, 

it's engaged not only in the outsourcing of 

office operations for people with disabilities, 

but also the development of agriculture 

and other new areas of employment. 

“Our approach is to take each person 

on their own merit,” says Pasona 

Heartful director Tadamichi Shiroiwa. 

“We're an HR firm so our focus is always 

on a candidate's strengths and skills, not 

their handicap. For too long in Japan, 

people with disabilities have been segregated. 

The situation has improved over 

the past 20 years, but it feels like a slow 

process. I still think we're behind other 

countries in terms of equal employment 

POLITICIAN SEIKO 

NODA WAS TOLD 

SHE SHOULD LEAVE 

HER SON TO DIE 

opportunities and barrier-free access. 

The government needs to enforce more 

stringent architectural policies ensuring 

that buildings have better accessibility 

for everyone.” 

Suzanne Kamata concurs. She feels 

attitudes towards people with disabilities 

in Japan have shifted in recent times; 

however, regarding infrastructure she 

believes there’s still a long way to go. The 

American-born writer explores topics 

like accessibility and human relations in 

her new book A Girls' Guide to the Islands 

in which she travels around the Seto 

Inland Sea with her daughter. It's a trip 

she probably wouldn't have envisioned 

making 10 to 15 years ago. 

“When Lilia was young, my motherin-law 

told me not to let her play outside 

on her own because she was worried what 

the neighbors would think,” says Kamata. 

“I heard there were three children nearby 

with disabilities, but I never really saw 

any. The attitude back then seemed to be 

‘let’s hide them away.’ Thankfully that’s 

changed and you’re now seeing more kids 

in wheelchairs and so on out and about. 

Unfortunately, there are still many shops 

and restaurants, including new ones, that 

are inaccessible. This contrasts sharply 

with America where even old mom and pop 

stores have ramps.” 

Josh Grisdale, who has cerebral palsy 

and is the founder of the Accessible Japan 

website (www.accessible-japan.com), 

points out renovations to public buildings 

don't just benefit those who are physically 

challenged, “but everyone.” The 36 year 

old, who moved to Tokyo 10 years ago 

from Canada and recently became a Japanese 

citizen, is pleased with the progress 

that’s being made and is confident that 

significant steps are being taken towards 

making Japan a barrier-free country. 

“I feel freer here than I did in Canada 

where I lived in a rural area and always 

had to rely on someone for a ride whenever 

I wanted to go anywhere,” he tells 

Weekender. “In Tokyo, the vast majority 

of public transportation is now wheelchair 

accessible so I can be more spontaneous. 

The toilets are also great and very 

easy to use. There’s even an app to find 

them: ‘Check a Toilet.' 

“Sometimes people follow the rules 

too closely here, but in general I feel it’s 

a great place for people with disabilities 

to visit. I remember the first time I came. 

There were all kinds of questions swirling 

around my head. Was the hotel going to be 

OK? Would I be able to use the train? The 

feeling of uncertainty was accentuated by 

the lack of information. After moving here 

permanently and learning the language, I 

realized there was lots of it available – it 

just wasn’t in English! That’s why I decided 

to create Accessible Japan.” 

As well as providing tips, the website 

also features various articles including 

some related to the Sagamihara massacre, 

an incident which Grisdale found difficult 

to comprehend. “I’ve faced various forms 

of discrimination during my life, but 

never imagined someone hating people 

because of their disabilities,” he says. 

Yet, Satoshi Uematsu is not completely 

alone in his perverse way of thinking. 

Ableism does exist and is exacerbated by 

public figures such as Australian philosopher 

Peter Singer, who advocates killing 

disabled babies via infanticide. In Japan, 

LDP politician Seiko Noda, whose child 

was born severely handicapped, has been 

subjected to online abuse including one 

person who told her that she should leave 

her son to die as he “uses up so much 

government money for medical care.” 

“Rather than spouting these opinions, I 

wish those individuals could observe people 

like my daughter,” says Kamata. “Then 

maybe they’d realize they’re more than 

just their disability. Awareness is growing 

and attitudes are changing, however, I fear 

that discrimination will always be there.” 


SURFING 

THE SNOW 

Snowsurfing is enjoying a global revival, and Fukushima’s 

powdery backcountry is the perfect place to try it 

Words by Phil Luza 

Before the Tohoku earthquake of 2011, Fukushima 

was one of Japan’s best-kept surfing 

secrets. The long, jagged Pacific coastline offered 

a variety of breaks, and caught swell 

throughout the year. Since many coastal 

areas are now irreparably changed and some remain 

off limits, the best remaining surf spots in Fukushima 

are now on its snow-covered mountains. 

Snowsurfing is the art of riding snow like a wave. 

Its roots can be traced to the origins of snowboarding, 

with early snowboards, like the Snurfer, being modeled 

after surfboards. As board design and technology 

advanced, the emphasis of mainstream snowboarding 

evolved from carves to airs and skate-style tricks, and 

the popularity of snowsurfing faded on the global 

scene. Nevertheless, the underground snowsurf 

movement has remained a force with carving purists, 

and has begun to regain popularity in the resorts and 

backcountry mountains of the world. 

The feeling of riding a mountain of powder snow 

is much like the feeling of surfing an endless flowing 

wave, and Japan’s near endless supply of powder 

perfectly suits snowsurfing. My first experience of 

snowsurfing began with an early morning departure 

from Tokyo to the mountains of Fukushima Prefecture, 

which is bordered by the Pacific Ocean and the 

Japanese Alps. Our destination was Hinoemata, a 

small village tucked away in the mountainous Aizu 

region, located close to Oze. Fukushima doesn’t have 

the international acclaim enjoyed by Hakuba or Niseko, 

and Hinoemata doesn’t have the towering peaks of 

neighboring Niigata and Gunma, but this makes it all 

the more interesting. It’s like a secret surf spot hidden 

within a city. It will never be famous, but it will also 

never be crowded. 

After a long drive we arrived at the parking 

lot near the base of the mountain where we met 

our guide Takayuki Hirano, and spotted the mini 

snowcat we would ride to access the backcountry. As 

if on cue, the snow that had been falling all morning 

began to clear up as we loaded our gear onto the side 

of the snowcat and crammed ourselves inside. The 

warm interior and quiet grins of everyone reminded 


Photo by Phil Luza 

me of an Indonesian boat ride I once 

took to one of the hundreds of breaks 

at that surf mecca. We felt a shared 

mix of nervousness and excitement as 

we gazed out the windows to witness 

the warm rays of sunshine piercing 

through the cold morning. 

Dozing off in the warm cabin, I 

awoke 30 minutes later as we arrived 

at the lodge. In front were two snowmobiles 

with large rubber boats – like 

the ones used for white water rafting 

– tied behind them. Inside was a small 

repair shop and a wall lined with 

colorful boards that looked more like 

surfboards than snowboards. These 

funky boards were all made by Moss, 

the world’s oldest snowsurfing brand. 

More than 40 years ago, Moss founder 

Shinzo Tanuma had a dream to surf on 

snow. In 1971, he created the first Moss 

Snowstick prototype, which was made 

from urethane foam and fiberglass, 

much like a traditional surfboard. He 

test-rode the prototype at the Akakura 

Onsen ski resort in Niigata, and started 

a revolution. 

The original Moss Snowsticks have 

been refined, with designs varying 

over the last four decades. The mix 

of tail shapes, board length, and nose 

width differs to match the rider’s desire 

to draw big lines and deep carves. 

I was quickly drawn to the Moss Quadstick 

model. The fat nose and swallow 

tail are similar in design to my favorite 

type of surfboard, and my mind raced 

with the possibilities. After swapping 

out my bindings I loaded the board 

into the rubber rafts with the rest of 

our group. As we made our way to the 

top of the mountain, the sun lit up the 

slopes, and the quiver of colorful Moss 

boards sticking out of the side of the 

boats struck a bright contrast against 

the pristine white snow. 

The snowmobile and rafts followed 

a narrow, snow-covered, closed 

road that snaked up to the top of the 

IT FELT LIKE I 

WAS SURFING 

A PERFECT 

MEXICAN POINT 

BREAK THAT 

NEVER ENDS 

From Top To Bottom 

Snowsurf Design boards by Taro Tamai: Super 

Fish Outline Core, Hornet, and Rocket Fish 

mountain. The recent snow storm 

had completely blanketed the area 

in nearly a meter of fresh pow. The 

occasional street sign or steel rockslide 

barriers were the only clues that this 

road – which gives way to open valleys 

and powder-covered trees – was ever 

in use. After a few minutes Takayuki 

stopped the snowmobiles and attached 

water-ski tow ropes to the boats. For 

the remainder of the ride up we took 

turns towing behind the snowmobiles, 

carving off the snowbanks lining the 

side of the road like wakeboarders 

behind a boat. 

Once at the top we unloaded 

our boards and gear from the boats 

and strapped in. The silence of the 

mountain was only broken by gentle 

laughter. Underneath the facemasks 

and scarves of the other riders there 

were big smiles as we glimpsed the 

sun glistening off the fresh powder. 

Everyone peered over the side of the 

road into the valley and mind-surfed 

the untouched terrain. 

Lining up along the ridge line we 

peered over the edge. The etiquette for 

this trip is to drop in one by one to let 

each person enjoy their run. I watched 

as a rider shouted “Ittekimasu” and 

slid into the fresh powder between the 

trees, leaving an arch of spray after 

each turn. Anxiously I watched, knowing 

I was next. After a few minutes I 

dropped off onto the run. The wide 

nose on my Moss Snowstick sank into 

the soft powder, then rose up to plane 

as I gained speed. I was floating over 

an ocean of snow and flowing effortlessly 

between the trees. The endless 

wave of powder made me feel like I 

was surfing a perfect Mexican point 

break that never ends, and rekindled 

the stoke that only a surfer knows. 

When I joined up with the rest of 

the group, the vibe was as if everyone 

had just caught the wave of their life. 

The mix of perfect conditions and 

equipment left an overwhelming feeling 

of accomplishment earned from 

taking the time to seek out a new place 

and try something different. When we 

eventually returned on the snowcat 

to the parking lot, we were exhausted 

but still smiling. To end things off, we 

took a short drive to the local onsen, 

where we soaked our tired bodies and 

swapped stories of our perfect day. 

USEFUL CONTACTS 

Hinoemata: www.oze-info.jp 

Tour info: raku-hinoemata.com 

Moss Snowboards: 

www.pioneermoss.com 

Onsen: 

www.oze-info.jp/spot/komanoyu 


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Yukari Araki, Mixed media2016, Courtesy of AIN SOPH DISPATCH 

ART, COMEDY, AND A GOOD EDUCATION 

Whether you are in the mood for abstract art from the 19th century, need a good laugh, 

or want to keep up to date on the latest Tokyo school news, we've got it all right here. 

34 GALLERY GUIDE 36 AGENDA 

38 EDUCATION 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | FEBRUARY DECEMBER 2017 2016 | | 33

ART & COMEDY 

ORSAY NABIS 

A partnership with the Musée d'Orsay brings the works of late 19th century Post-Impressionist, avant-garde collective Les Nabis to 

Tokyo. Meeting at Académie Julian, the group of artists paved the way for 20th century abstract and nonrepresentational art. Breakouts 

of the group included Pierre Bonnard, Édouard Vuillard and Maurice Denis, although more than 20 artists made up the collective. 

Works by influencers, such as Paul Gauguin, will also be displayed. Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum Until May 21 mimt.jp/nabis 

Paul Gauguin, Self-Portrait with “The Yellow Christ,” 1889–90, Musée d’Orsay, Paris 

THE ART WORLD 

OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS 

Compiled by Luca Eandi 

MATISSE ET ROUAULT 

Henri Matisse, Still Life, 1896 

Painters Henri Matisse and Georges Rouault met at 

art school, when they both attended the École des 

Beaux-Arts. This exhibition displays correspondence 

between the two spanning 50 years, and the 

artwork that accompanied it. Although stylistically 

different, it is apparent from the letters how they 

influenced each other over time. Important early 

works by Matisse will be displayed, such as The 

Bottle of Schiedam, as well as Rouault's oil-color 

plates for "Divertissement." Shiodome Museum 

Until March 26 panasonic.co.jp/es/museum 


Tiziano, ca.1515, Oil on canvas, Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence © Gabinetto Fotografico del Polo Museale Regionali della Toscana 

C 

COMEDY 

Three comedy nights to keep you 

laughing all month long 

JIMMY CARR 

One of the most prolific 

joke-tellers of recent 

times, Jimmy Carr embarked 

on a mammoth 

world tour earlier this 

year that features a 

selection of his very 

best jokes along with 

brand new material. 

His deadpan delivery 

coupled with plenty of dark humor has made him a 

perfect host for several of Britain’s top panel shows, 

and Carr brings equal amounts of charm and edge 

to his stand-up. February 27, Yamano Hall 

Gabriella Mangano & Silvana Mangano “There is no there,” 

2015 / Single-channel video / Collection of the artist / 

Courtesy of Anna Schwartz Gallery, Melbourne 

TITIAN AND THE RENAISSANCE IN VENICE 

When it comes to Venetian Renaissance art, one prolific painter perhaps embodies 

it more than others – Tiziano Vecellio, also known as Titian. The 15th/16th 

century painter worked steadily on commissions from monarchs and popes alike 

throughout his fruitful life. His brilliant colors, free and vibrant brushwork and use 

of softly diffused light became a calling card and influenced generations to come. 

On top of dozens of Titian's works, this exhibition includes influential works by 

Bellini and Vivarini, as well as later Venetian works by Veronese and others. Tokyo 

Metropolitan Art Museum Until April 2 titian2017.jp/english 

YEBISU INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL FOR ART & 

ALTERNATIVE VISIONS 2017 

Better known as Yebizo, this renowned festival will take place at the renovated 

Tokyo Photographic Art Museum in Ebisu. The theme for this year’s festival is 

“Multiple Future” and the art promises to explore this concept by employing duplicative 

techniques and marrying variant elements. Participants for 2017 include 

artist Yasuko Toyoshima, videographer Fiona Tan, American filmmaker Nancy 

Kates, and Academy Award–winning Polish director Zbigniew Rybczyński. 

Tokyo Photographic Arts Museum Until February 26 www.yebizo.com 

EDDIE IZZARD 

In bringing his latest 

stand-up show, “Force 

Majeure,” to Tokyo 

for the first time ever, 

Eddie Izzard is closing 

in on having toured 

30 different countries. 

This extensive tour is 

no match for Izzard’s 

energetic stream-ofconsciousness 

style of comedy, which often leads 

him to speak in multiple languages, even ones he 

claims not to know. Equally at home on stage and on 

screen, Izzard is a master storyteller and a fearless 

entertainer. February 25, Tokyo Comedy Store 

PERFECT 

LIARS CLUB 

Perfect Liars Club is a 

comedy storytelling/ 

interrogation show that 

started in Washington 

DC in 2013. The point 

of the game is to spot 

the liar. For the first 

part of the show, four 

people tell funny stories, 

three are real, one is not. In the second part, the 

audience asks questions of the performers, looking 

for holes in their stories. In the last segment, the audience 

votes on who’s lying and sees if they’re right. 

All in all, a fun way to spend an evening and sharpen 

your wits. February 9, Good Heaven’s Bar 


1 

3 

Yusuke Tsuchida, courtesy ART in PARK HOTEL TOKYO 2016, JILL D’ART GALLERY 

2 

4 

6 

7 

8 

5 

AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN FEBRUARY 

1 

FEB 11-12 

2 

FEB 11-24 

3 

FEB 19-20 

4 

FEB 25-26 

ART IN PARK HOTEL 

TOKYO 2017 

This art fair includes works from 

ANDREI TARKOVSKY 

PROGRAMME 

Get an education on the Russian 

NITRO CIRCUS 10TH 

ANNIVERSARY WORLD TOUR 

Motorcycles, BMX bikes and 

HOSTESS CLUB 

WEEKENDER 2017 

This two-day indie rock festival is 

Japan, Taiwan and South Korea, 

using hotel rooms as the exhibition 

space. Bring Weekender's Jan or Feb 

2017 mag and get ¥200 off. 

Where: Park Hotel Tokyo 

How much: ¥1,500 

More info: www.aipht.artosaka.jp/en 

filmmaker during this retrospective, 

and perhaps see some of his films for 

the first time on the big screen. 

Where: K’s Cinema 

How much: ¥1,000-¥1,800 

More info: www.pan-dora.co.jp 

skateboards will fly through the 

air at great speeds, defying all that 

you thought you knew about the 

constraints of gravity. 

Where: Tokyo Dome 

How much: ¥7,000-¥25,000 

More info: www.nitro-circus.jp 

headlined by Pixies and The Kills, 

and also features post-rock band 

Mono, Little Barrie, Girl Band, The 

Lemon Twigs and more. 

Where: Studio Coast 

How much: ¥8,500-¥13,900 

More info: ynos.tv/hostessclub 

FEB 25 

TOKYO MARATHON 

FRIENDSHIP RUN 2017 

Happening on the day before the 

main event, this Tokyo Marathon 

fun run is organized especially for 

foreigners. 

Where: Symbol Promenade Park 


More info: tokyoweekender.com 

6 FEB 2-5 

SALON DU CHOCOLAT 

Around 100 chocolatiers from 17 

countries bring their best products 

just in time to get your sweetheart 

something cocoa-tastic for 

Valentine’s Day. 

Where: Tokyo International Forum 

How much: Free 

More info: tokyoweekender.com 

5 7 

FEB 11 

CHINESE PAPER LANTERN 

CEREMONY 

Yokohama Chinatown is chock-full of 

events and celebrations for Chinese 

New Year’s, including this traditional 

paper lantern lighting ceremony. 

Where: Yokohama Chinatown 


More info: www.chinatown.or.jp 

8 FEB 1-28 

GENTARO ISHIZUKA: 

DEMARCATION 

This Tokyo-based photographer 

traveled to document oil pipelines 

within four different countries across 

the globe. 

Where: Gallery 916 

How much: ¥800 

More info: www.gallery916.com 

36 36 | | FEBRUARY 2017 | | TOKYO WEEKENDER

11 

9 

10 

12 

9 

FEB 2-28 10 FEB 1-19 

FLOWERS BY NAKED 

Renowned projection mapping 

and lighting installation 

collective Naked is back 

to encore an exciting show 

that's designed to stimulate 

all your senses. 

Where: Nihonbashi Mitsui Hall 


More info: flowersbynaked.com 

“UNTITLED RECORDS” 

VOL. 10 

Nagano-born photographer 

Keizo Kitajima returns with 

the 10th edition of this exhibition 

series chronicling his travels 

around Japan. 

Where: Photographers’ Gallery 


More info: pg-web.net 

FEB 3-12 

YOKOHAMA STRAWBERRY 

FESTIVAL 2017 

Ever since coming on the scene in 

2013, the Yokohama Strawberry 

Festival has become one of the 

more welcome additions to an 

already busy festival season. 

Where: Yokohama Akarenga 


11 12 FEB 1-14 

More info: www.yokohama-akarenga.jp 

WHITE SACAS ICE 

SKATING RINK 

In addition to the ice rink, be sure 

not to miss the nearby Akasaka 

Biz Tower illuminations to get 

the full romantic experience for 

Valentine’s Day. 

Where: Akasaka Sacas 

How much: ¥500-¥1,200 

More info: sacas.net 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | FEBRUARY 2017 | | 37 37

Situated at the very heart of the city, BST has steadily built an enviable 

world-wide reputation over more than quarter of a century. Here’s a 

glance at five of their recent achievements and accreditations 

BST is an accredited member of 

the Council of British International 

Schools and one of only a 

small number of schools worldwide 

to have been independently 

inspected according to the UK 

standards for British Schools 

Overseas, and judged to be excellent 

in every category. We regard 

this as yet another very welcome 

endorsement of the high standards 

we set for ourselves. 

Young people today increasingly 

see themselves as global 

citizens and, while many of 

our graduates seek to continue 

their education in the UK, there 

is growing interest in both the 

USA and Japan, and a number 

of current students are looking 

towards Australia and mainland 

Europe. Most universities worldwide 

are familiar with Britain’s 

public examination system and 

are keen to accept students with 

good A level qualifications. In 

fact, the specialist nature of these 

two-year courses means that 

students with better grades can 

expect to earn significant credit 

– sometimes up to a whole year’s 

worth of study. At Harvard, for 

example, you will need to have at 

least three A/B grades to matriculate 

(earn a place) but three A*/A 

grades will merit a full year’s 

academic credit; Boston College 

will offer two courses of credit 

for A/B grades, while C grades 

will earn one semester’s credit, 

and Princeton clearly states on its 

website that A/B grades will earn 

Advanced Placement credit. It is 

a similar story across the world. 

BST is, of course, much more 

than an A Level school. All 

examinations are important, and 

many parents are impressed by 

the rigour and structured progression 

of our particular brand 

of British education from the age 

of three through to 18. That said, 

students here know that education 

is not simply about passing 

exams. Sport, music and drama 

are woven into the fabric of 

school life, and we see both community 

service and adventurous 

activity as real strengths. From 

their early years in our Nursery 

and Reception classes, children 

are given countless opportunities 

to develop the independence and 

resilience that will enable them 

to take the next step in their 

education – wherever it might 

take them, with confidence – and 

a smile. 

In January, the school’s good 

name was further enhanced 

when the Chair of the Board 

of Trustees, Mrs Marianne 

Black, was awarded an MBE for 

services to international education 

in the latest New Year’s 

Honours list. This prestigious 

award, one of just 76 granted to 

recipients overseas, recognises 

the advances made by BST under 

Mrs Black’s guidance during the 

past five years and offers affirmation 

of the school’s central 

importance to both the British 

and the broader international 

community here in Tokyo. 

This year, for the first time in 

its history, BST is home to well 

over 1,000 students. There are 

many reasons to explain the 

remarkable surge in student 

enrolment at BST in recent years 

but foremost among them is the 

widespread recognition that this 

is a school where young people of 

all abilities from the most diverse 

backgrounds can find their niche 

and fulfil their potential. Since 

2012 we have seen the number of 

15- to 18-year-old students on our 

IGCSE and A Level courses more 

than double to almost 250; examination 

results have progressed to 

the point where they match the 

gold standard set by the United 

Kingdom independent sector and 

our graduates are winning places 

at some of the most prestigious 

universities around the world. 

38 | FEBRUARY 2017 |

Creating 

Global Leaders 

How Aoba-Japan International School (A-JIS) is introducing 

unique methods to help build communities and prepare 

children for success and happiness in an unknown future 

As the world moves towards an 

increasingly uncertain future, 

helping learners become 

empowered problem solvers 

and innovators is essential. To that end, 

Aoba-Japan International School (A-JIS), 

is paving the way for a unique approach to 

education. We chat with the school’s Secondary 

Principal, Robert Thorn, and the Director 

of Aoba-Japan Extension (AJE), Greg 

Culos, who is responsible for community 

and external programs, to find out more. 

HOW DID AOBA’S DIFFERENT 

APPROACH TO EDUCATION EVOLVE? 

Robert: Many schools have mission statements 

with big ideas, such as making an 

impact on the world one day. We said, “Why 

can’t we do that now?” We began to ask 

ourselves, and the kids: “What is the point 

of education?” The kids came up with things 

like, “It’s to prepare us for success and happiness 

in an unknown future.” 

THAT’S INSIGHTFUL COMING FROM 

SCHOOLKIDS… 

Robert: Exactly. We took time to reflect 

together on that. We then looked at how a 

school and an education system can do this; 

how does a learner go into an unknown 

future and come out happy and successful? 

To this end, we have learners 

examine positive and negative 

aspects of school. They look at the 

relationship between teachers 

and learners and, through 

discussion and exploration, 

propose how positive change 

can be made. They begin to 

see how to make changes in 

their communities. 

Greg: AJE was designed 

with the notion that we create 

opportunities for our 

kids to become inspired to 

learn about, in particular, 

things that inspire them. 

It’s a simple notion, but 

it breeds relevancy. 

Consequently, we strive to 

ensure that AJE programs 

are experiential first. 

WE CREATE 

OPPORTUNITIES FOR 

LEARNERS TO BE SOCIAL 

ENTREPRENEURS 

IN THEIR LIVES 

Robert: We give more time to the topic of 

global leadership than we do to the traditionally 

important subjects, with the notion 

that better holistic learners will learn content 

knowledge better, and apply it better. 

SO GLOBAL LEADERSHIP IS PART OF 

THE CURRICULUM? 

Robert: Yes, teachers challenge learners 

about certain topics, and set up opportunities 

for them to practice leadership and 

coaching skills. The idea is to nurture 

critical approaches to understanding 

expected norms and behaviors, and to 

generate learner-led forums and actions in 

which they can present, test, question, and 

perhaps modify notions regarding “global 

leadership”: What is entrepreneurial spirit? 

What defines a happy family life? What 

is success? What am I doing now to bring 

positive change to our community? 

Greg: We may provide controlled situations 

that can lead to conflict in life, and then 

problem-solve those issues with others in a 

responsible way. So, they become attuned 

to the roots of what causes problems in life 

and how those instances may be managed. 

Robert: In many schools you get teachers 

who love the subject they teach, but half 

the kids they teach think of it as a waste of 

time. Wouldn’t it be better if young people 

understand that they’re going into any 

classroom to become better learners and 

leaders – and that this outcome is possible 

even within the context of any subject? 

HOW DO YOU EMPOWER THE 

TEACHERS? 

Robert: A good example is a course our 

teachers took with Professor Philippe 

Rosinski, who developed a system called 

Global Coaching. His approach leads to a 

more rounded coach. That said, we also 

realized that, as teachers, we’re only just 

learning these skills, so we thought, let’s go 

on a journey with the kids. In this way, we 

are helping to build our community and 

relations between educators and learners 

that empower both to develop the other. 

HOW ELSE ARE YOU HELPING TO 

BUILD COMMUNITY? 

Robert: To be social entrepreneurs, you first 

have to understand your impact on society. So 

we’re collaborating with local schools. One of 

the events we’re trying to organize is getting 

teenagers and retired people to come 

together to make things – anything from 

conversation to calligraphy. 

Greg: Families in Japan reach out 

to international schools to provide 

their children with learning 

paths that are otherwise not 

available to them: creativity, 

independence, and critical 

thinking being among those. 

Both our mainstream and 

AJE programs offer these 

experiences. We also host 

more and more international 

students seeking 

the same opportunities 

to discover the world in 

different ways. As a result, 

all participants can experience 

authentic instances of 

socio-cultural difference. 

More info at www.japaninternationalschool.com 


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People, 

Parties, Places 

TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE WITH BILL HERSEY 

Bill Hersey and the age-defying 

Mick Jagger, circa 1988 

In addition to having a lot of friends from all over the world 

visiting Tokyo over the Christmas-New Year's holidays, I 

met a lot of interesting people for the first time. This added 

up to spending a lot of time meeting and talking with people 

from all walks of life in a half a dozen or so of the city’s 

many fine restaurants, coffee shops, and parks. Our groups were 

always very international and we talked about everything from terrorism 

to (ugh!) Trump. 

One conversation with a group of young Italian businessmen 

working here regarding the perils of Roppongi really surprised me. 

One of them told me he and a few friends were lured to a well-known 

Roppongi club by a couple of touts who work the streets around the 

Roi Building. They didn’t really like the club’s ambiance, so they decided 

to have one drink and move on. But somehow someone had 

spiked their drinks and two of them woke up in a small dark street 

several hours later. One was missing his watch and wallet and the 

other just his wallet. They reported this and spent considerable time 

filling out a police report. It’s been a couple of weeks and they haven’t 

gotten anything back yet. I respect the police here, but it’s not 

easy. The Roppongi scumbags who are into spiking drinks, pickpocketing, 

and the like really know what they’re doing. 

I know Tokyo’s one of the safest cities in the world, but it seems 

like no matter where you travel nowadays, you should be careful. 

I'd also like to warn you about using drugs here. Most, including 

marijuana, are illegal and penalties are tough. I’m sure you can find 

people selling drugs, but don’t take a chance. No one needs that kind 

of trouble here. 

Joined friends from the Big Apple at a first-class holiday lunch 

at the Grand Hyatt’s Oak Door. My fish and chips were excellent 

and not all that expensive. My four friends who arrived a little late 

were loaded down with Christmas décor bags from a half a dozen 

Roppongi Hills bags and boxes. “Gifts for friends back home,” they 

told me, adding “Tokyo is really a marketing dream.” I suppose 

when you consider that about 1% of Japan’s 127 million people are 

big shoppers, this is true. If you visit the Shibuya and Roppongi Don 

Quixotes, they’re almost always super busy with Chinese and Southeast 

Asian tourists with big bags, boxes and even suitcases full of all 

kinds of things they bought to take back home. 

Even though there are only a small number of Christians in Japan, 

thanks to marketing and promotions Tokyo was beautifully decorated 

for holidays and sales of gifts were up. An increase in tourism 

has helped. Let’s hope it keeps getting better all the time. In closing 

this part of the column, my apologies to our Chinese friends for this 

late, but truly sincere congratulations on their New Year which was 

on January 28. 

ALGERIAN NATIONAL DAY RECEPTIONS 

Algerian Ambassador Mohammed Bencherif and his wife Amira 

hosted their National Day Reception in their beautiful Arabic designed 

Embassy/Residence in Minato-ku. Guests were a wall-to-wall 


HAPPY BIRTHDAY 

SHIGA AT TSUKIJI 

JISAKU 

1. Brazilian car racer J.P. 

Oliveira and his wife Haruka 

2. Shiga’s mom Reiko, his 

son Christophe, the birthday 

guy Tsukasa Shiga, his 

wife Anna, their daughter 

Anastasia, and Anastasia’s 

friends Diria and Roman 

3. Top Apple executive Kaoru 

Washitaki, his wife Hinatsu 

1 2 

3 4 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

ALGERIAN 62ND 

NATIONAL DAY 

4. The hosting couple, Algerian 

Ambassador Mohamed Bencherif, his 

wife Amira 

5. Gospel singer Alex Easley, photographer 

Benjamin Lee 

6. Toshio and Fumiko Motoya, the 

couple behind all the APA Hotels you 

see everywhere 

7. Egyptian Ambassador Ismail 

Khairat, Kuwait Ambassador 

Abdul-Rahman Al-Otaibi 

8. Algerian Ambassador Bencherif, 

German Ambassador Hans Carl 

Freiherr Von Werthern 

9. Bill and Japan Football Association 

head coach Vahid Halilhodzic 

10. Gaimusho’s Deputy Director General 

Middle East and Africa Affairs 

Bureau, Katsuhiko Takahashi, his 

wife Mami, and Amira Bencherif 


WINE NIGHT 

AT MIDTOWN 

OAKWOOD 

1. Nandan Mer, Alok Rakyan, 

Ikuko Yasutomi, Paul 

Mortensen, Chiyuki Shimamoto 

2. Todai University’s Phil 

Stilwell, Saguri Ishida 

1 2 

5 

3 4 

8 

7 

6 

9 

10 

11 

OMAN’S GLITTERING 

NATIONAL DAY 

RECEPTION 

3. The hosting couple Oman Ambassador 

Khalid Al-Muslahi, his dynamic 

wife Aisha Abeer 4. Kuwaiti Ambassador 

Abdul-Rahman Al-Otaibi, his 

wife Jamilah 5. Indian Association of 

Japan President Dr. Sanjay Mehrotra, 

popular politician Kazuyuki Hamada 

6. Min-On Concert Association 

President Hiroyasu Kobayashi, 

Timor-Leste Ambassador Filomeno 

Aleixo da Cruz 7. Yuko Hayashi (wife 

of the Yemen Ambassador to Japan), 

Bill, Trends International’s Nobuko 

Saito, Tamy Ozeki 8. Hisanaga 

Shimazu, visiting Omani Royal family 

member Sayyid Munthir Al Busaid, 

Takako Shimazu (sister of the 

Emperor) 9. Maali Siam (Palestine), 

her son Amr, his friend Monika 

10. Jordan Ambassador Demsye 

Haddad, his wife Shifa, Metropolitan 

Police’s Toshihiko Matsumaru 

11. Takako Shimazu, Bosnia & 

Herzegovina Ambassador Anesa 

Kundurovic, Hisanaga Shimazu 


crowd of diplomats, government officials, business leaders, sports 

figures, art, fashion and Algerian students studying and working in 

Japan. It was nice seeing two friends who dress as far-out as I do 

– noted gospel singer Alex Easley and international photographer 

Benjamin Lee. Benjamin travels a lot and was just back from Europe 

and we talked about his work and experiences there. I also talked 

with two Japanese friends who are unconventional dressers: Toshio 

and Fumiko Motoya. She’s the lady who always wears a hat. She and 

her husband own the huge APA Hotel Chain, and she’s the poster girl 

for many of their billboards and other advertisements. If you are as 

successful as the Motoyas you can get away with wearing anything. 

I noticed one tall foreigner I didn’t know getting a lot of attention, 

so I walked over and introduced myself. He spoke French, and 

I don’t, but we were able to communicate enough to exchange name 

cards and take a photo. He turned out to be Japan Football Association’s 

head coach, Vahid Halilhodzic, a really cool man. I was 

also happy to meet the new Egyptian Ambassador, Ismail Khairat. 

He was really surprised to hear I had visited his marvelous country 

15 times, had coffee with former Egyptian First Lady Jehan Anwar 

Sadat, greeted President Anwar Sadat sitting in a chair at their garden 

by the Nile, and had a great seat for Frank Sinatra’s concert in 

front of the Pyramids and the Sphinx that night. 

OMAN’S SUPER CELEBRATION – PALACE HOTEL 

For their big celebration of Oman’s National Day, the popular couple 

Ambassador Khalid Al-Muslahi and his wife Aisha Abeer hosted a midday 

reception in one of the ballrooms of the luxurious Palace Hotel’s 

Yamabuki Room. 

The Al-Muslahis have many friends from all walks of life, including 

one of our city’s most popular couples, Takako Shimazu, the sister 

of the Emperor and her husband, Hisanaga. I also was happy to 

see both Kuwaiti Ambassador Abdul-Rahman Al-Otaibi and his wife 

Jamilah, both back from their gorgeous and super nice daughter 

Hala’s wedding in Kuwait City. Another special guest at the Oman 

celebration was a young man from Oman’s royal family, Sayyid 

Munthir Al Busaid. Oman, according to world traveler Lilo Maruyama, 

is a dream destination. Hope to meet Sayyid in this very special 

country later this year. 

Kudos to the Omanian embassy chef who’s from Lebanon, and the 

hotel’s food and beverage department. They worked together on preparing 

the beautiful buffet of Arab, Japanese and Western favorites. 

Like anything Khalid and Abeer do, it was an elegant, colorful, and 

thoroughly enjoyable event. 

GOD BLESS THEM ALL 

I, like all of you, know it’s all a part of life, but still find it difficult to 

write about when good friends pass away. 2016 was a tough year 

with the loss of a lot of people I had the privilege of knowing. 

These included superstars Prince, David Bowie, and George 

Michael. We lost two great ladies in films over the holidays as well. 

I’d never met Debbie Reynolds, but got to know her daughter Carrie 

Fisher when she was here with Mark Hamill and Harrison Ford to promote 

the first Star Wars. Thanks to friends at Toho, I could set up a 

private screening of an Akira Kurosawa film that the Star Wars stars 

wanted to see. It went OK, but Kurosawa-san joined us about 15 minutes 

after the very long film was running. The only problem was that 

Harrison had jet lag and I had to quietly wake him up several times. 

Sorry about all the name dropping but that’s part of the job, and 

even I find it difficult to realize how many wonderful people I’ve met 

over the years. I know I may come off like a groupie, but, as the line in 

Barbara Streisand’s famous song goes: “People who like people are the 

luckiest people in the world.” I really feel my friends don’t have to be 

superstars. They just have to be nice, thoughtful and interesting and 

there are so many out there – really good people from all walks of life 

who left us. 

A classic example whom some of you might have met was Jane 

Yonamine. This beautiful, always chic lady was married to baseball 

legend Wally Yonamine. Jane and he were both born in Hawaii, and 

spent many of their later years there and in Japan. She was the first 

Japanese-American to go into the pearl business, back in 1964. Her 

Tokyo shop is on the fifth floor of the art shop building at Roppongi 

Crossing, right across the street from the busy police box there. She 

ran the shop for 53 years, and with her outgoing personality, she made 

it a must-visit for anyone who wanted the highest quality pearls available. 

The walls in her shop are covered with photos of the many celebs 

and other VIPs who were her customers and friends. These included 

our mutual friend Elizabeth Taylor, other showbiz luminaries, business 

leaders, top government officials, and royalty. 

In addition to being a great mother to her son Paul and daughters 

Amy and Wallis, she was a good businesswoman and a great friend. 

Jane was a real philanthropist as well who not only helped many 

worthwhile causes – which included their church, the Franciscan 

Chapel, and their children’s schools (St. Mary’s and Sacred Heart) – 

she also reached out and helped many new expat wives learn to adjust 

to living in and loving Japan. She also paid for many boxes of clothes, 

toys, and medicine that I sent to the less fortunate in the Philippines 

and Papua New Guinea, and she gave me pearl bracelets for the little 

girls at my annual orphans party at the Tokyo Hilton. 

Jane passed away peacefully in Los Angeles on December 5, 

2016, surrounded by her family – this includes seven grand-children 

and four grandchildren. Jane’s daughter-in-law Lynda is now 

running the Pearl shop in memory of Jane and Wally. Thanks to her 

and many others for the memories, friendship, and support – God 

bless their souls. 

On a happier note, I’d like to say congratulations to Mick Jagger, 

who celebrated the birth of Deveraux Octavian Basil, his eighth child, in 

December. Still full of mojo at 73, Mick doesn’t just have “Sympathy 

for the Devil” – he might have made a deal with him for all that 

youthful vigor! Here’s to more good news like this in 2017. 

Chief Rabbi Binyomin Edery of Tokyo and four of 

his nine children at National Azabu during the 

Hanukkah holiday 

Steven Haynes and his nephew Shaka Haynes with 

Dermazone's Atsushi Sudo at Shibuya Segafredo 

In Hiroo: Someone who’s not afraid 

to make an ass of himself 


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Tokyo Weekender - February 2017

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