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Top left: Enjoying lunch around<br />
the campfire after a dawn start.<br />
Bottom left: The spectacular<br />
landscape of Jämtland made the<br />
long days of walking worth it.<br />
Top: Mattias’ young tracking<br />
dog, Scott.<br />
your guide. The Sámi know the Swedish<br />
wilderness better than anyone, as they traverse<br />
the expansive landscape herding their<br />
reindeer atop motorbikes. So how many<br />
reindeer does Mattias own? “I would never<br />
disclose a figure – that’s like asking me<br />
how much money I have in the bank!” he<br />
quipped before cramming more snus onto<br />
his gums. Hunting is an integral part of his<br />
life. Not only does he make money by guiding<br />
hunters, but hunting also keeps predator<br />
numbers in check. Mattias watches his herd<br />
of reindeer around the clock, but still loses<br />
around half of the calves to predators such as<br />
wolves, lynx, eagles, and of course bear. “Last<br />
year was the worst on record, I lost seventy<br />
percent of my calves,” shrugged the fatherof-five,<br />
adding: “Everything else in life<br />
comes second to my reindeer.” Lars added:<br />
“Hunting is very much part of the culture in<br />
Sweden. Local hunters would think nothing<br />
of strapping a dead moose to the top of their<br />
pick-up and driving through town.”<br />
The next morning we were out the door<br />
at dawn. The sense of anticipation and excitement<br />
was audible, palpable and intense.<br />
The air was bitingly cold so we wrapped<br />
up in layers and loaded up with a heavy<br />
backpack containing rifle and ammo as well<br />
as water and rations for the day. The plan?<br />
To spot and stalk while scouting for sign.<br />
Thankfully bear are a hulking great mass –<br />
with boars weighing up to three hundred<br />
kilograms – so they are relatively easy to<br />
spy even from hundreds of metres away.<br />
We were primarily targeting an old boar, so<br />
anything with cubs was off-limits. So how<br />
do you judge a shooter? “Big boars have a<br />
lot of space between their ears,” explained<br />
Markus. “If there’s a crease down the middle<br />
of his forehead, stop judging and shoot.”<br />
Lars explained that a mature, big boar will<br />
not behave as cautiously as other species –<br />
like fox for instance – so I should have time<br />
to take a well-placed shot. “Believe me, you<br />
don’t want to track a wounded bear in thick<br />
cover. Aim midway up the front shoulder,<br />
which will put the bear down fast. Of course,<br />
if he appears out of nowhere, you may have<br />
to shoot in self-defence.”<br />
At this time of year, autumn, the bears<br />
are fattening up on the raspberries, crowberries,<br />
cloudberries and blueberries which<br />
carpet the forest floor. They enter a stage<br />
called hyperphagia in which they gorge<br />
themselves in advance of hibernation,<br />
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