Sustainable RTW: The New Norm

ethicalfashionforum

SUSTAINABLE RTW

THE NEW NORM

BRAND SHOWCASE 2017 // LOOKBOOK 2 OF 6

IMAGE: MANTIS WORLD


EDITOR’S NOTE

A niche no more, sustainable clothing is now

strongly available across all segments and price

points.

Whether you are looking for underwear or outerwear;

swimwear or just good basics and casual style, the brands in

this lookbook show that you don’t have to compromise on

style for sustainability.

Athleisure continues to be a definite trend - we take a closer

look at this sector and its great potential for many sustainable

brands and retailers.

Perhaps the question we get asked most often is ‘what is the

size of the ethical fashion market’?

Whilst we don’t have a definitive answer - yet - this lookbook

does offer insights into consumers’ behaviour around

sustainability in four key markets: Germany, UK, USA and India.

Find out more on p22.

If you’ve enjoyed this, explore our other five exciting lookbooks

as part of the 2017 Brand Showcase on SOURCE Intelligence.

Clare Lissaman

Director, SOURCE Intelligence

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CONTENTS

4 BASICS, CASUAL, & STREET

MANTIS WORLD

THOUGHT

COLLECTIVE

CREATION26

DO U SPEAK GREEN?

HOPE MADE IN THE WORLD

MISENSE BY MILA B

NO NASTIES

NOMADS

ONE COLOUR

THTC

22 FEATURE: ETHICAL CONSUMERS AROUND THE WORLD

28 SPORT, SWIM, & SLEEP

AVILA

FROM

HAH | HOT-AS-HELL

LARKSPUR

MIGHTY GOOD UNDIES

MOONBIRD

VESIKA PISCES

39 ARTISAN INSPIRED DAYWEAR

MEHERA SHAW

KAMPALA FAIR

LILY OF VALLEY ISLE

MATA TRADERS

NILA RUBIA

PASSION LILIE

SINERJI

VINTAGE INSPIRED ETHICAL DESIGNS (VIED)

3


BASICS

CASUAL

STREET

4


“What makes a brand stand

out is its integrity.

Integrity touches many elements. Are

the materials the very best they can

be? Is the design going to stand the

test of time? Is there thought behind

the selection of materials?

Brands that try to be trendy or are

derivative get it wrong. The ones that

get it right are creating product that

the team behind it truly want to see in

the world.

That’s exciting stuff.”

MAXINE BEDAT, RETAIL BUYER & CO-FOUNDER, ZADY.COM

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BACK TO BASICS

THE FOUNDATIONAL PIECES

MANTIS WORLD

HQ

London, UK

USP

Excellent quality basics from a

pioneering ethical manufacturer with

over 20 years experience

PRODUCTS

High quality adults, children and

babies casual, everyday garments, white

labelling service

ETHICS

“Well Made” ethos – GOTS, Oeko Tex,

SA8000, BSCI, Sedex, Textile Exchange

BCorp and working in Tanzania,

Bangladesh and Pakistan, focused on

transparency and traceability

WHOLESALE PRICES

£1.95-£15.45

STOCKISTS

A large number of high profile fashion

brands, retailers and merchandisers

CONNECT

www.mantisworld.com

marion@mantisworld.com

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THOUGHTFUL CLOTHING

INTRODUCING WE ARE THOUGHT

THOUGHT

HQ

London, UK

USP

Pioneering sustainable brand known for its

thoughtful design and excellent quality

PRODUCTS

Women’s and men’s clothing and

accessories

ETHICS

Uses hemp, bamboo and organic cotton

and working with a small number of

dedicated factories for many years

WHOLESALE PRICES

£1.95 – £59.90

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

Stocked throughout the UK

CONNECT

www.wearethought.com

info@wearethought.com

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“We don’t have to

engage in grand,

heroic actions to

participate in change.

Small acts, when

multiplied by millions

of people, can

transform the world.”

HOWARD ZINN

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ELEVATED ESSENTIALS

EVERY PIECE HAS A STORY TO TELL

WE ARE COLLECTIVE

HQ

London, UK

USP

Premium ethical basics with a focus on

collaboration and provenance

PRODUCTS

Dresses, top and pants for men and

women

ETHICS

Working collaboratively and

transparently with producers in

Turkey and Tanzania, using natural

and organic materials

RETAIL PRICES

Retail £35 – £250

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

CONNECT

www.wearecollective.com

b.jandrell@wearecollective.com

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“Buying is like voting,

and I don’t want to

support something

against my values.”

BRUNO PIETERS, HONEST BY

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COLOURFUL CREATIONS

HANDPRINTED AND HANDMADE IN THE UK

CREATION 26

HQ

London, UK

USP

Fun hand printed, recycled and

upcycled youthful basics, accessories

and homewares

PRODUCTS

Tops and accessories for men and

women, bags and soft toys

ETHICS

Working with local british artisans

and co-operatives to produce pieces

with unique prints from reclaimed,

recycled and upcycled fabrics

WHOLESALE PRICES

Upon request

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

CONNECT

www.creation26.com

info.creation26@gmail.com

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A GREEN WARDROBE

EVERYDAY SUSTAINABLE ESSENTIALS

DO U SPEAK GREEN?

HQ

India

USP

Aesthetics meets ethics with 21+ years

export experience

PRODUCTS

Printed t-shirts, casual, yoga and

loungewear for the whole family.

ETHICS

Using GOTS certified cotton, bamboo,

Modal and recycled polyester, made in

its ISO90 certified factory and running

projects to support the livelihoods of

Indian cotton farmers

WHOLESALE PRICES

Form £8+

STOCKISTS

Flipkart, Infibeam, Craftsvilla, Saga

Department store, Organic World

+many more

CONNECT

www.douspeakgreen.in

shishir@fusionclothing.com

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SPOTLIGHT ON STANDARDS & CERTIFICATIONS

CHILD LABOR FREE

Launched in 2015 Child Labor Free believe that

consumers and companies around the world

can work together to create significant change,

making a difference in the lives of children and

the communities they live in.

Products certified with the Child Labor Free

mark provide assurance that brands are

committed to operating ethically and ensuring

their business is free of child labor.

Child Labor Free assess and analyse production

of final product, components and source

materials through an auditing process that

includes both desk analysis of relevant

documentation and site visits where necessary.

www.childlaborfree.com

Read an interview with the CLF founders here

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SEASONLESS STYLE

CLOTHING THAT FITS IN WITH THE WORLD

HOPE MADE IN

THE WORLD

HQ

USA

USP

Ethical essentials that take you from

season to season

PRODUCTS

Dresses, tops and pants for men and

women

ETHICS

Certified child labor free. Uses

sustainable and eco-friendly

materials, responsible business and

employee practices

WHOLESALE PRICES

Upon request

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

CONNECT

www.hopemade.world

hope@hopemade.world

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CLOTHES TO LIVE IN

BESPOKE SLOW FASHION

MISENSE BY MILA B

HQ

Yorkshire, UK

USP

Easy to wear and care for designs

inspired by personal stories

PRODUCTS

Dresses, tops, pants and outerwear for

women.

ETHICS

Slow fashion, ready to wear and

bespoke service, reclaimed, antique

and end-of-roll fabrics, with

longevity in mind.

WHOLESALE PRICES

On request

STOCKISTS

Orders via own website

CONNECT

www.misensefashion.co.uk

mila@misensefashion.co.uk

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INDUSTRY STATS

Clothing production doubled

from 2000-2014, and the

number of garments

purchased each year by the

average consumer increased

in that period by 60%.

Consumers keep clothing

items about half as long as

they did 15 years ago.

MCKINSEY & COMPANY, SUSTAINABILITY & RESOURCE PRODUCTIVITY

However, keeping textiles

out of landfills would save

the US economy more than

$375 million per year in fees.

EPA; USAgain

19


LAID BACK VIBES

RELAXED READY TO WEAR

NO NASTIES

HQ

India

USP

Effortless, comfortable, casual but

never boring – great shapes, easy to

wear colours with small, special

details

PRODUCTS

Casual yet smart basics for men and

women – tops, bottoms, shirts,

dresses and scarves

.

ETHICS

100% certified organic and Fairtrade

cotton sourced from co-ops and

eco-friendly dyes

WHOLESALE PRICES

$10-$25USD

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

CONNECT

www.nonasties.in

yes@nonasties.in

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AT A GLANCE: CONSUMER INSIGHTS

Ethical Consumers

Around the World

Studies suggest that consumers tend

to be more motivated by emotions

and social influences, such as peer

influence, than by data alone.

INDIA



A poll of Indian consumers taken by Fairtrade

India in 2014 found that 75% said that women’s

rights as workers was their top issue overall and

the majority were prepared to pay up to 25%

more for ethical goods

66% of Indian consumers say retailer/brand

websites are their top source of clothing

inspiration

GERMANY



30% of German consumers bought at

least one item of sustainable apparel in

the last year according to Slow Fashion

Monitor 2016

66% of German consumers say

retailer/brand websites are their top

source of clothing inspiration but 70% of

sales are made in store

22


USA



48% of consumers say they’re

more loyal to brands that “seem

to share [their] personal

interests such as giving back to

the community, health and

fitness, cooking, art, music, etc..”

That percentage is higher

among Millennials (53%) and

Gen X (48%) shoppers than

Baby Boomers (41%)

UNITED KINGDOM



The ethical clothing market in the UK

shrank overall by 21% in 2016. However

organic clothing sales increased by 15%

and over 20% of consumers bought

second hand clothes for ethical reasons.

70% of British consumers say

retailer/brand websites are their top

source of clothing inspiration

23


TIME TO WANDER

STYLE FOR EVERYDAY ADVENTURES

NOMADS

HQ

Cornwall, UK

USP

Lovely feminine prints and easy,

comfortable yet flattering cuts

PRODUCTS

Everyday clothing and accessories

for women

ETHICS

100% certified organic and Fairtrade

cotton sourced from co-ops and

eco-friendly dyes

WHOLESALE PRICES

£12 - £75

STOCKISTS

Atom Retro, Bentleys, Johnstons of

Elgin, Smiths of Lerwick, Ethical

Superstore +many more

CONNECT

www.nomadsclothing.com

info@nomadsclothing.com

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TAILORED TALES

CONNECTION THROUGH CLOTHING

ONE COLOUR

HQ

Brisbane, Australia

USP

Timeless tailored pieces connecting

the customer to artisan who made

them

PRODUCTS

Quality, classic daywear for women–

dresses, tops, jackets, bottoms

ETHICS

One Colour with Kenana Down

Under partners with Kenyan

organisations Kenana Knitters and

Amani ya Juu. Working with

enterprises that respect the rights of

employees to earn a decent wage

RETAIL PRICES

$15-$100AUD

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

CONNECT

www.onecolour.com

enquiries@onecolour.com

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URBAN ETHICS

REDEFINED SINCE 1999

THTC

HQ

London, UK

USP

Ethically made streetwear since 1999,

collaborations with world renown street

and graphic artists, musicians and actors

PRODUCTS

Street wear (tees, hoodies, shirts + more)

for both men and women

ETHICS

All cotton products are GOTS organic

and Fair Wear certified, using hemp from

ILO members and Soil Association

certified inks and dyes

WHOLESALE PRICES

£11.50 – £20

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

See website for more stockists

CONNECT

www.thtc.co.uk

info@thtc.co.uk

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SPORT

SWIM

SLEEP

28


REPORT WATCH

ATHLEISURE ME GOOD

noun: ath·lei·sure \ˈath-ˌlē-zhər casual clothing designed

to be worn both for exercising and for general use

In 2015 according to Morgan Stanley’s

report “Global Athletic Wear: Very Bullish

Five-Year Outlook”, 1 the athleisure market

had grown by 42% over the preceding

seven years, was worth £204bn

(US$270bn) and was predicted to grow by

a further 30% by 2020.

Since then there have been claims that

the trend is over; that it’s continuing but

the name is not; or that it has become so

firmly embedded in people’s, particular

women’s, clothing choices that it is now

no longer a trend but the new normal.

Trendanalytic’s 2016 report “The Athleisure

Movement: From Fad To Forever” 2 noted

‘online searches for the term “athleisure”

have increased more than 250% since

2015’ and made the connection with

clean living fitness trends and influencers

on social media.

Data from Fung Global Retail &

Technology and First Insight 3 show that

consumers are more willing to pay nearer

the retailer’s proposed prices for athleisure

than for other product sectors.

Given the prevalence of organic and

Fairtrade knitted jersey cotton fabrics and

denim as well as Tencel and innovative

performance fabrics used by sustainable

brands, athleisure is a market sector that is

a perfect fit for such brands to target.

29


ATHLEISURE ELEGANCE

TURNING THE EVERYDAY LUXE

AVILA

HQ

Melbourne, Australia

USP

Comfortable, flattering and classic styles

with a unique twist

PRODUCTS

Tops, dresses, pants, accessories and

athleisure leggings and tops for women

ETHICS

Made in Australia using natural and

organic materials, passionate about

providing local jobs at a fair wages and

good condition

WHOLESALE PRICES

$35-$130AUD

STOCKISTS

Own webshop, plus several bricksand-mortar

shops across Australia

CONNECT

www.avila.com.au

info@avila.com.au

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ACTIVEWEAR CLASSICS

GENTLE ON YOU AND ON THE PLANET

FROM

HQ

United Kingdom

USP

Classic yoga and activewear that

takes you from the studio to the

street, using ecoluxe fabrics.

PRODUCTS

Tops, leggings and sports bras for

women.

ETHICS

Made from ethically sourced,

certified organic and/or sustainable

sources.

WHOLESALE PRICES

£15-£45

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

CONNECT

www.fromclothing.com

su@fromclothing.com

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HOT SUMMER HEAT

LOOKS TO KEEP YOU COOL

HAH | HOT AS HELL

HQ

USA

USP

Making sustainability sexy

PRODUCTS

Swimwear, lingerie and beach

lifestyle apparel

ETHICS

Investing in innovative eco fibres,

fabrics, and processes that are better

for the consumer and the life of the

garments

WHOLESALE PRICES

USD $14-$207

STOCKISTS

ASOS, own webshop

CONNECT

www.hot-as-hell.com

jilli@hot-as-hell.com

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MARKET TRENDS

“Consumers are now

expecting more from the

brands they have an affinity

for and show loyalty to.

Companies are benefitting

from the transparency and

it’s a new proxy for genuine

and authentic customer

engagement.”

CRAIG ELIMELIAH, DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE TECHNOLOGY, VML

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CALIFORNIA DREAMING

A MODERN DAY FANTASY

LARKSPUR

LINGERIE

HQ

Los Angeles, USA

USP

Perfect blend of sex appeal, L.A.

style, comfort using skin-friendly

fabrics

PRODUCTS

Womens organic cotton lingerie

ETHICS

GOTS certified organic cotton,

modal and repurposed trim, made in

Los Angeles

RETAIL PRICES

$22-$140

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

3 bricks-and-mortar shops in the US

CONNECT

www.larkspurla.com

info@larkspurla.com

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NO COMPROMISE COMFORT

UNDERWEAR FOR EVERYDAY PEOPLE

MIGHTY GOOD

UNDIES

HQ

Australia

USP

Super soft, ultra-comfortable,

flattering underwear made ethically

PRODUCTS

Everyday underwear for everybody

ETHICS

Certified organic and Fairtrade,

aiming to bring Fairtrade to the

mainstream

WHOLESALE PRICES

$6.50AUD

STOCKISTS

Own webshop, also offers a

subscription service

CONNECT

www.mightygoodundies.com.au

sales@mightgoodundies.com.au

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SPOTLIGHT ON FABRIC

INNOVATIVE YARNS & FABRICS

ROICA EF - the first sustainable stretch yarn

Roica EF is a premium stretch fibre composed of up to 50% reclaimed

pre-industrial waste certified under the Global Recycle Standard. It can be

adapted to a host of applications, including sportswear, lingerie and

underwear, and outerwear.

RECOVER - coloured yarn without dyeing

Recover is produced by Hilaturas Ferre from old clothing and textile scraps.

Through a colour-sorting process, Recover produces the yarn in many colours

using none of the water and toxic chemicals needed in conventional cotton.

ORANGE FIBER - fabric that’s good for the skin and the planet

Orange Fiber has created a textile by extracting cellulose from the

700,000-plus tons of organic waste discarded in citrus fruit processing each

year in Italy. Nanotechnology is used to enrich the fibre with Vitamin C to

nourish the skin when worn. The product has completed its operational phase

and is poised to enter the market.

Discover more innovative fabrics in the SOURCE Innovation in Fabrics report.

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SLEEP SOUNDLY

LOUNGEWEAR TO LOVE

MOONBIRD DESIGNS

HQ

Australia

USP

Easy to wear and care for designs

inspired by personal stories

PRODUCTS

Dresses, tops, pants and outerwear for

women.

ETHICS

B-Corp certified, Fair trade and

organic cotton, supports small scale

artists through collaboration, working

towards zero waste.

WHOLESALE PRICES

$25-$70AUD

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

CONNECT

www.moonbird.com.au

birdy@moonbird.com.au

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SUSTAINABLE SWIM

RESORTWEAR FOR EVERY WOMAN

VESIKA PISCES

HQ

Canada

USP

Using traditional Mexican

embroidery from Oaxaca in a new

and original way

PRODUCTS

Women’s resort clothing –

swimwear, casual beach attire and

evening wear

ETHICS

Made with natural, certified organic

and recycled materials and using

VOC free dyes; made in Mexico with

a small artisanal workshop

WHOLESALE PRICES

$10 – $300 CAD

STOCKISTS

Ecohabitude.com

CONNECT

www.vesikapisces.com

michelle@vesikapisces.com

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ARTISAN

INSPIRED

DAYWEAR

39


MODERN // TRADITION

ARTISANAL STYLE FOR TODAY

MEHERA SHAW

HQ

Jaipur, India

USP

Modern styles combine with

traditional Indian block printing

PRODUCTS

Easy to wear women’s tops, bottoms,

dresses and jumpsuits

ETHICS

Made by artisans in own Fair Trade

production studio using GOTS

certified and handloom cotton, wool

and silk, AZO free dyes

WHOLESALE PRICES

$15-$50USD

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

A number of retailers across the USA

CONNECT

www.meherashaw.com

info@meherashaw.com

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SUSTAINABLE FASHION 101

WAGES








The legal minimum wage in most garment-producing

countries is rarely enough for a worker to live on.

Most of the world’s garments are made in Asia, and yet the

workers who make them are not paid enough to live on.

It is estimated that the minimum wage in Bangladesh still

only covers 60% of the cost of living in a slum.

In Cambodia and China the minimum wage would need to

be at least twice as high to cover the basic cost of living

(Clean Clothes Campaign, 2014).

In the Cambodian garment industry, over 80% of workers

are women, aged 18-35.

In India, Bangladesh and across Asia likewise, most garment

workers are women. Many of these women have children

and families to provide for and no other income earners in

the family to contribute.

According to Clean Clothes Campaign, one worker’s salary

typically supports at least three people in a family. Not only

do low wages keep garment workers in a cycle of poverty,

but they also add to the pressure to work long overtime

hours, which impacts on health and safety, as well as on

productivity.

FURTHER READING:

Introduction to Fashion’s Social Issues

Research Report: The Living Wage: Core Principles & Global

Perspectives

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FOR THAT POP OF COLOUR

BEAUTIFUL PIECES IN CLASSIC SHAPES

KAMPALA FAIR

HQ

Uganda

USP

No more than 30 pieces made of

each gorgeous Kitenge printed fabric

in flattering cuts made for the

bodies of real women

PRODUCTS

Women’s wear aimed at the 30-50

age market who love a pop of colour

ETHICS

Made in Uganda supporting 15 staff

and 42 school children and using

locally sourced fabrics and fair trade

practices

WHOLESALE PRICES

$18-$55

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

African Touch (Stockholm and

Copenhagen)

CONNECT

www.kampalafair.com

contact@kampalafair.com

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THE ISLAND VIBE

HAWAIIAN INSPIRED

LILY OF THE

VALLEY ISLE

HQ

Hawaii, USA

USP

Adaptable pieces featuring unique

Hawaiian-inspired prints

PRODUCTS

Easy to wear women’s tops, bottoms,

dresses and jumpsuits

ETHICS

Green America certified and using

organic materials, low impact dyes,

fair trade production with a blend of

heritage textile traditions

WHOLESALE PRICES

$35-$65USD

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

Ecohabitude

CONNECT

www.lilyofthevalleyisle.com

info@lilyofthevalleyisle.com

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A LOVE AFFAIR WITH PRINTS

A STORY OF DISCOVERY

MATA TRADERS

HQ

Chicago, USA

USP

Colorful and wearable prints that

pop using traditional processes in

fashion-forward silhouettes

PRODUCTS

Easy to wear women’s tops, bottoms,

dresses and jumpsuits

ETHICS

Made by Fair Trade cooperatives and

artisan groups using traditional craft

traditions like handloom weaving

and block printing

WHOLESALE PRICES

$5.50-$41USD

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

A number of retailers across the USA

CONNECT

www.matatraders.com

jonit@matatraders.com

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INDIAN SUMMER

KEEPING TRADITIONS ALIVE

NILA RUBIA

HQ

UK

USP

Modern and comfortable wear

featuring special prints with an

Indian flavour

PRODUCTS

Dresses, tops, pants and outerwear

for women.

ETHICS

Supports the Indian tradition of

block printing, dyes and the

materials are natural and AZO free.

They guarantee all workers receive a

living wage and are all treated with

respect and dignity

WHOLESALE PRICES

£3 – £70

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

CONNECT

www.nilarubia.co.uk

info@nilarubia.co.uk

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TOP TIPS

3 BENEFITS OF POP-UP RETAIL

Looking to increase sales? The pop-up trend is perfect for

sustainable brands & retailers. Here’s why:

1. REAL LIFE INTERACTION WITH CUSTOMERS




Gain new customers from passing trade

Test out new products

Build word of mouth interest

2. DATA COLLECTION


Increase mailing list and customer information

3. COLLABORATION



With established retailers opening up floor space for pop-ups

With other sustainable brands

FURTHER READING

Current Retail Trends and Their Impact on Sustainable Fashion

7 Top Tips for Running a Successful Pop-up Shop

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SOUTHERN CHARM

DESIGNED IN NEW ORLEANS //MADE IN INDIA

PASSION LILIE

HQ

New Orleans, USA

USP

Fantastic block prints and Ikat

patterns in flattering styles

PRODUCTS

Tops, bottoms, dresses, outwear,

scarves and bags for women

ETHICS

Fair trade & eco-friendly apparel

brand with a mission to empower

artisans across the world by creating

dignified employment opportunities

WHOLESALE PRICES

$10-$39USD

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

Stocked throughout the USA

CONNECT

www.passionlilie.com

katie@passionlilie.com

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AUSTRALIAN INSPIRATION

IN HARMONY WITH NATURE

SINERJI CLOTHING

HQ

Queensland, Australia

USP

Clever adaptive styles perfect for

everyday from work to play for all

body shapes

PRODUCTS

Women’s and men’s clothing

inspired by Australian flora and

fauna

ETHICS

Fair trade and sweatshop-free using

Oeko Tex certified Modal, organic

rain-fed cotton and natural dyes

WHOLESALE PRICES

$10-$100AUD

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

Stocked throughout Australia

CONNECT

www.sinerji.com.au

alice@sinerji.com.au

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RETRO-MADE

VINTAGE BROUGHT TO LIFE

VINTAGE INSPIRED

ETHICAL DESIGNS

(VIED)

HQ

Australia

USP

Inspired by vintage silhouettes from

the 1920s-60s with an Indian flair

PRODUCTS

Women’s clothing designed for 35+

ETHICS

Working with homeworkers in

India to keep traditional techniques

thriving and to give disadvantaged

women more economic

independence

WHOLESALE PRICES

$50-$182AUD

STOCKISTS

Own webshop

CONNECT

www.vied.com.au

helen@vied.com.au

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“A fresh generation are

marching for

revolution and they

want to wear clothes

that tell a new story.

Let’s give it to them.”

NAOMI KLEIN

53


REFERENCES

1

Global Athletic Wear: Very Bullish Five-Year Outlook, Morgan Stanley

2

The Athleisure Movement: From Fad to Forever, Trendanalytic

3

Fung Global Retail & Technology and First Insight

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54


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