Brand Showcase 2017: Menswear
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“Any man may be<br />
in good spirits and<br />
good temper when<br />
he’s well dressed.”<br />
CHARLES DICKENS<br />
ETHICAL FASHION FORUM // BRAND SHOWCASE <strong>2017</strong><br />
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EDITOR’S NOTE<br />
<strong>Menswear</strong> is having a moment. Well quite a long moment, it has been in<br />
the ascendant over the last few years and is set to outperform<br />
womenswear by 2020 according to analysis by Euromonitor.<br />
Sometimes it may seem as if the selection of dedicated ‘ethical’<br />
menswear is small, especially when compared to womenswear.<br />
However, as our contributor David Evans of the popular Grey Fox Blog,<br />
notes on pp16-17 there are many menswear brands who may not market<br />
themselves as ethical but who are are de-facto sustainable in that their<br />
products are made well, made to last and often made locally to their<br />
market from locally produced materials.<br />
The brands showcased here will have men dressed well, and sustainably,<br />
whatever the occasion: suits, formal shirts, casual t-shirts, outerwear,<br />
underwear, scarves, hats, bags and even those much longed for ‘trousers<br />
that are not jeans’. In organic cotton, Fairtrade cotton, wool, recycled<br />
fabrics, natural dyes and more.<br />
Other Lookbooks in this series cover womenswear, accessories,<br />
childrenswear and retailers. Find them at SOURCE Intelligence.<br />
Clare Lissaman<br />
Director, SOURCE Intelligence<br />
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LUXURY ADDITIONS<br />
KNIT ACCESSORIES FOR ALL SEASONS<br />
ALLY BEE KNITWEAR<br />
HQ<br />
UK<br />
USP<br />
Meticulously crafted British alpaca<br />
knitwear with a unique supply chain<br />
and luscious high quality touch and feel<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Sweaters, scarves, hats, and gloves for<br />
men and women<br />
ETHICS<br />
Entirely sourced, woven, knitted, dyed<br />
and made in the UK with small-scale,<br />
family run producers<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
£26-£100<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Rtister, Graziashop.com<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.ally-bee.com<br />
info@ally-bee.com<br />
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BACK TO BASICS<br />
THE FOUNDATIONAL PIECES<br />
MANTIS WORLD<br />
HQ<br />
UK<br />
USP<br />
Excellent quality basics from a<br />
pioneering ethical manufacturer with<br />
over 20 years experience<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
High quality menswear basics and white<br />
labelling service<br />
ETHICS<br />
“Well Made” ethos – GOTS, Oeko Tex,<br />
SA8000, BSCI, Sedex, Textile Exchange<br />
BCorp and working in Tanzania,<br />
Bangladesh and Pakistan, focused on<br />
transparency and traceability<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
£1.95-£15.45<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
A large number of high profile fashion<br />
brands, retailers and merchandisers<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.mantisworld.com<br />
marion@mantisworld.com<br />
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SPOTLIGHT ON STANDARDS<br />
GLOBAL ORGANIC<br />
TEXTILE STANDARD<br />
(GOTS)<br />
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The Global Organic Textile Standard is a<br />
comprehensive ecological and social standard for the<br />
entire textile supply chain based on the use of<br />
certified organic fibres. Strict criteria apply at all stage<br />
from cotton through to the final product and the<br />
GOTS label can only be used on final products that<br />
have been certified through every stage.<br />
Companies can expect clear ecological and social<br />
benefits from the standard. GOTS is agreed by<br />
stakeholders around the world and endorsed by<br />
IFOAM – Organics International.<br />
Proper GOTS labeling must show the GOTS<br />
certification ID so that consumers (and all interested)<br />
can check them against the GOTS public database.<br />
www.global-standard.org<br />
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THOUGHT LEADER<br />
INTRODUCING WE ARE THOUGHT<br />
THOUGHT<br />
HQ<br />
UK<br />
USP<br />
Pioneering sustainable brand known for its<br />
thoughtful design and excellent quality<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Women’s and men’s clothing and<br />
accessories<br />
ETHICS<br />
Uses hemp, bamboo and organic cotton<br />
and working with a small number of<br />
dedicated factories for many years<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
£1.95 – £59.90<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop<br />
Stocked throughout the UK<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.wearethought.com<br />
info@wearethought.com<br />
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“A man should look as<br />
if he had bought his<br />
clothes with<br />
intelligence, put them<br />
on with care, and<br />
then forgotten all<br />
about them.”<br />
HARDY AMIES<br />
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SMART STYLING<br />
SUSTAINABLE WARDROBE STAPLES<br />
ARTHUR & HENRY<br />
HQ<br />
UK<br />
USP<br />
Smart men’s shirts for work and play<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Men’s shirts, made ethically<br />
ETHICS<br />
Using organic and Fairtrade cotton and<br />
linen, sourced and made in India where<br />
they work to provide sustainable<br />
livelihoods<br />
RETAIL PRICES<br />
£60-90<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.arthurandhenry.com<br />
info@arthurandhenry.com<br />
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ESSENTIALS ONLY<br />
THE ETHICAL BASICS<br />
WE ARE COLLECTIVE<br />
HQ<br />
UK<br />
USP<br />
Premium ethical basics with a focus on<br />
collaboration and provenance<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Dresses, top and pants for men and<br />
women<br />
ETHICS<br />
Working collaboratively and<br />
transparently with producers in<br />
Turkey and Tanzania, using natural<br />
and organic materials<br />
RETAIL PRICES<br />
Retail £35 – £250<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.wearecollective.com<br />
b.jandrell@wearecollective.com<br />
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FUTURE FRIENDLY<br />
UPCYCLED BAGS AND LEATHERGOODS<br />
CONTINEW<br />
HQ<br />
South Korea<br />
USP<br />
Quality, durable leather with a cool<br />
backstory and interesting trims and<br />
details<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Bags and small leather goods<br />
ETHICS<br />
Upcycling disused car seat leather<br />
saving 1462 gallons of water per bag<br />
and employing North Korean refugees<br />
RETAIL PRICES<br />
£15-£130<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop, four bricks-and-mortar<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.wecontinew.com<br />
hello@wecontinew.com<br />
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LONG READ<br />
Sustainable<br />
<strong>Menswear</strong>: Fit<br />
for Purpose<br />
In 2011 David Evans launched the<br />
Grey Fox Blog, one man's search<br />
for style over 40. He now has<br />
over 13,000 readers and is in<br />
regular demand as a writer,<br />
speaker and brand champion.<br />
The fashion sales machine encourages us to buy<br />
regularly and in volume. For most consumers this<br />
means buying large amounts of lower-priced<br />
clothing, much of which is poor quality (hence the<br />
low price) and falls apart quickly, so rapidly ending<br />
up in landfill.<br />
It’s hard to blame consumers for this unsustainable<br />
state of affairs. I say that because I was, until fairly<br />
recently, a consumer of menswear products who was<br />
sensitive to price, always after a bargain.<br />
As a result I ended up with large amounts of clothing<br />
that was poor quality, lasted a short time and seldom<br />
looked good when worn. I don’t think this was my<br />
fault, it resulted from the way that many high street<br />
and designer labels sold their products to me,<br />
misleadingly implying that a designer name<br />
inevitably means a higher quality product, even<br />
when sold cheaply.<br />
So it was that, when I rather surprisingly stumbled<br />
into being a menswear style blogger in 2011, I<br />
initially approached it from this consumer<br />
perspective. With little understanding of the<br />
implications of buying cheaply, I continued to look<br />
for designer name bargains. But this approach was<br />
soon to change.<br />
Grey Fox Blog is all about my search for style as<br />
an older man. The focus on style naturally led me<br />
to quality as I realised that it’s very hard to look<br />
well-dressed wearing cheaply made clothing.<br />
This is turn led me to discover British-made<br />
menswear in particular. I found a fascinating<br />
array of small and larger businesses in the UK<br />
making and selling high quality menswear.<br />
IMAGE CREDIT: JONATHAN DANIEL PRYCE .<br />
WEARING: DEGE & SKINNER AND JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN .<br />
I came to realise that such businesses are<br />
producing sustainable fashion. The products are<br />
in general not cheap, because those making them<br />
are fairly paid and the materials they use are good<br />
quality.<br />
16
I soon discovered, intriguingly, that their<br />
products are generally better value than some<br />
international designer names because their quality<br />
made them last longer and fit better.<br />
As the blog grew I noticed that better-informed,<br />
more adventurous consumers are coming to<br />
understand that sustainable fashion offers so<br />
much more than high street fashion names<br />
in a couple of ways.<br />
Obviously the ethical aspects attract<br />
the thoughtful consumer, but<br />
sustainable menswear is also<br />
attracting increasing interest<br />
among consumers who feel it offers<br />
better value in the long term. They find<br />
that they often do better buying from<br />
little-known brands because they can pay less for<br />
high quality products than for cheaply made items<br />
from well-known fashion names.<br />
Furthermore, the pleasure of rooting out gems<br />
from small shops and manufacturers is equalled by<br />
the show-off factor of something that’s different<br />
and rarer than items sporting a commonly seen<br />
designer label.<br />
“Sustainable menswear<br />
is attracting increasing<br />
interest among<br />
consumers who feel it<br />
offers better value in the<br />
long term.”<br />
Educate your consumers to encourage them to<br />
become sophisticated buyers in the Japanese<br />
model.<br />
Being clear and open about the origins of your<br />
products, the processes by which they are made,<br />
the people who make them and the skills they<br />
require, will emphasise to the consumer that they<br />
are paying a little more for a<br />
reason.<br />
-<br />
You’re marketing<br />
craftsmanship and design<br />
which, while they have to<br />
be paid for, are worth it as<br />
the products last better and<br />
look better.<br />
Find David at<br />
Grey Fox Blog: www.greyfoxblog.com<br />
Twitter: @GreyFoxBlog<br />
Instagram: @GreyFoxBlog<br />
Pinterest: GreyFoxBlog<br />
The rise of the more sophisticated consumer;<br />
buying slow fashion and interested in quality and<br />
style, has been steady but slow in Europe and the<br />
USA. In Japan, on the other hand, many<br />
consumers already understand the importance of<br />
quality over price.<br />
Many suppliers and manufacturers of quality<br />
British goods have told me that their main market<br />
is in Japan, where the quality and value of their<br />
products is recognised, while they remain little<br />
known and unrecognised here in their country of<br />
origin.<br />
HAWES & CURTIS<br />
What does this mean for brands? Tell your story.<br />
Make them want your products because they are<br />
different and not just from a mass-produced<br />
designer label.<br />
VULPINE<br />
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STATEMENT SUITING<br />
BOLD ITALIAN CRAFTSMANSHIP<br />
Franklin Eugene<br />
HQ<br />
Italy<br />
USP<br />
Glitz, glamour & excellent<br />
craftsmanship for a man who wants to<br />
make a statement<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Luxury menswear, tops, bottoms,<br />
sweaters, suits and tuxedos<br />
ETHICS<br />
Made in Italy and Dubai using organic<br />
fabrics, 10% of profits go to charity<br />
(over $90k to War Child)<br />
RETAIL PRICES<br />
$300-$10,000USD<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
3 retail outlets<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.franklineugene.com<br />
info@franklineugene.com<br />
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ETHICAL FOUNDATIONS<br />
BASICS THAT SPEAK VOLUMES<br />
DO U SPEAK GREEN?<br />
HQ<br />
India<br />
USP<br />
Aesthetics meets ethics with 21+ years<br />
export experience<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Printed t-shirts, casual, yoga and<br />
loungewear for the whole family.<br />
ETHICS<br />
Using GOTS certified cotton, bamboo,<br />
Modal and recycled polyester, made in<br />
its ISO90 certified factory and running<br />
projects to support the livelihoods of<br />
Indian cotton farmers<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
Form £8+<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Flipkart, Infibeam, Craftsvilla, Saga<br />
Department store, Organic World<br />
+many more<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.douspeakgreen.in<br />
shishir@fusionclothing.com<br />
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MARKET TRENDS<br />
The global menswear<br />
market was worth $408bn<br />
(£335bn) in 2015.<br />
This will rise to $457bn<br />
(£375bn) by 2020.<br />
EUROMONITOR
MARKET TRENDS<br />
54% of 16-24 year-old<br />
men consider product<br />
quality the most<br />
important factor when<br />
buying clothes from a<br />
particular retailer.<br />
MINTEL<br />
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TIMELESS STYLES<br />
BUILD WARDROBE FOR ALL SEASONS<br />
HOPE MADE IN<br />
THE WORLD<br />
HQ<br />
USA<br />
USP<br />
Ethical essentials that take you from<br />
season to season<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Dresses, tops and pants for men and<br />
women<br />
ETHICS<br />
Certified child labor free. Uses<br />
sustainable and eco-friendly<br />
materials, responsible business and<br />
employee practices<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
Upon request<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.hopemade.world<br />
hope@hopemade.world<br />
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#BAREFORGOOD<br />
QUALITY ETHICAL UNDERWEAR<br />
MIGHTY GOOD<br />
UNDIES<br />
HQ<br />
Australia<br />
USP<br />
Super soft, ultra-comfortable,<br />
flattering underwear made ethically<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Everyday underwear for everybody<br />
ETHICS<br />
Certified organic and Fairtrade,<br />
aiming to bring Fairtrade to the<br />
mainstream<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
$6.50AUD<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop, also offers a<br />
subscription service<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.mightygoodundies.com.au<br />
sales@mightgoodundies.com.au<br />
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GREEN DREAMS<br />
COMFY SLEEPWEAR & LOUNGEWEAR<br />
MOONBIRD DESIGNS<br />
HQ<br />
Australia<br />
USP<br />
Easy to wear and care for designs<br />
inspired by personal stories<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Sleep and loungewear for men and<br />
women<br />
ETHICS<br />
B-Corp certified, Fairtrade and<br />
organic cotton, supports small scale<br />
artists through collaboration, working<br />
towards zero waste.<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
$25-$70AUD<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.moonbird.com.au<br />
birdy@moonbird.com.au<br />
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TOP TIPS<br />
5 DESIGN APPROACHES<br />
FOR SUSTAINABILITY<br />
1. Design for longevity<br />
2. Design for disassembly<br />
3. Zero waste pattern cutting<br />
4. Minimal seam construction<br />
5. Upcycling<br />
Read more here
MADE WITH CARE<br />
ORGANIC COTTON CLOTHING<br />
NO NASTIES<br />
HQ<br />
India<br />
USP<br />
Effortless, comfortable, casual but<br />
never boring – great shapes, easy to<br />
wear colours with small, special<br />
details<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Casual yet smart basics for men and<br />
women – tops, bottoms, shirts,<br />
dresses and scarves<br />
ETHICS<br />
100% certified organic and Fairtrade<br />
cotton sourced from co-ops and<br />
eco-friendly dyes<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
$10-$25USD<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.nonasties.in<br />
yes@nonasties.in<br />
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ROYAL TREATMENT<br />
MADE IN THE UK FROM ROYAL ALPACA<br />
PLUM OF LONDON<br />
HQ<br />
UK<br />
USP<br />
Royal Alpaca products are rare and<br />
exclusive, some of the finest fibres in<br />
the world<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
British luxury knitwear for<br />
women,men, children and babies<br />
ETHICS<br />
Alpaca yarns sourced from fair trade<br />
producers in South America and the<br />
UK, knitted in the UK<br />
RETAIL PRICES<br />
£40-£225<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
JWolf & Badger, Luxify, ASOS, Best of<br />
Britannia, Pure N Chic + many more<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.plumoflondon.com<br />
hdouglass@plumoflondon.com<br />
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INDUSTRY STATISTICS<br />
Older men aged 45-54<br />
(50%) show above<br />
average interest in the<br />
style of clothes when<br />
shopping compared to<br />
47% of consumers<br />
overall.<br />
MINTEL<br />
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SUSTAINABLE FASHION INSIGHTS<br />
WASTE<br />
The worldwide consumption of<br />
textiles is over 73 million tonnes and<br />
is expected to grow nearly 4% a year<br />
through 2025 yet only 20% of<br />
textiles are recycled each year<br />
around the world.<br />
Meanwhile, every ton of discarded<br />
textiles reused saves 20 tonnes of<br />
CO2 from entering the atmosphere<br />
and every 1000 tonnes of used<br />
textiles collected is said to create<br />
about seven full time jobs and 15<br />
indirect jobs.<br />
Read more here:<br />
Introduction to Fashion’s Key Environmental Issues<br />
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RELAXED CLASSICS<br />
100% BRITISH KNITWEAR<br />
RAMNATION<br />
HQ<br />
UK<br />
USP<br />
Luxurious, British knitwear made in<br />
classic, timeless styles<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Men’s knitted outerwear and accessories<br />
ETHICS<br />
Entirely made in England from sheep to<br />
shop using natural British wool fibres<br />
and natural dyes & recyclable buttons<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
£25 - £225 GBP<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop, Cock&Bull, Dashing<br />
Tweeds<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.ramnation.no.uk<br />
info@ramnation.co.uk<br />
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SURF’S UP<br />
SUSTAINABLE BEACH STYLE<br />
RIZ BOARDSHORTS<br />
HQ<br />
UK<br />
USP<br />
Exclusive, sartorial prints made by<br />
talented illustrators, very high quality<br />
with clever design details made for<br />
active surfers and swimmers<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Sustainable, tailored boardshorts<br />
ETHICS<br />
Made from 100% recycled and<br />
recyclable fabric using plastic bottles<br />
and working to clean up our seas,<br />
manufactured in Portugal<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
£32-£38<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop, Albam, Becker Minty,<br />
Brothers We Stand, The Standard<br />
Store, Nano Universe, Virgin<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.rizboardshorts.com<br />
ali@rizboardshorts.com<br />
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SUSTAINABLE SHIRTING<br />
MADE TO ORDER IN INDIA<br />
Visible Clothing<br />
HQ<br />
UK<br />
USP<br />
Men's shirts designed in London and<br />
handmade to order in India<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Tailored men’s shirts<br />
ETHICS<br />
Produced under the 10 principles<br />
of Fair Trade<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
Via website<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.visible.clothing<br />
hello@visible.clothing<br />
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PHILOSOPHY OF THE STREET<br />
ETHICAL URBAN STYLE SINCE 1999<br />
THTC<br />
HQ<br />
UK<br />
USP<br />
Ethically made streetwear since 1999,<br />
collaborations with world renown street<br />
and graphic artists, musicians and actors<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Street wear (tees, hoodies, shirts + more)<br />
for both men and women<br />
ETHICS<br />
All cotton products are GOTS organic<br />
and Fair Wear certified, using hemp from<br />
ILO members and Soil Association<br />
certified inks and dyes<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
£11.50 – £20<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop<br />
See website for more stockists<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.thtc.co.uk<br />
info@thtc.co.uk<br />
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OFF DUTY LUXE<br />
TRANS-SEASONAL KNITWEAR<br />
UNTOUCHED WORLD<br />
HQ<br />
New Zealand<br />
USP<br />
Clever designs and exquisite knitwear<br />
using sumptuous natural fibres that<br />
stand the test of time.<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Luxury everyday knitwear for women,<br />
mens, kids, and home.<br />
ETHICS<br />
Untouched World Charitable Trust<br />
touching the lives of 1500 young<br />
adults, full life cycle of products<br />
embrace sustainability from design to<br />
use of materials to end of life, Child<br />
Labor free accredited.<br />
WHOLESALE PRICES<br />
Varies by country<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
Own webshop and stocked in retail<br />
stores across Australia and New<br />
Zealand<br />
CONNECT<br />
www.untouchedworld.com<br />
peri.drysdale@untouchedworld.com<br />
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REPORT WATCH<br />
BRANDS TO<br />
TRUST<br />
-<br />
“Increasingly, companies are being<br />
expected to take a larger role in social and<br />
environmental issues and help make the<br />
world a better place or “more good” place<br />
to live.”<br />
Consumers value companies by their ability<br />
to deliver well-being to customers’ lives and<br />
positive social impact, going beyond the<br />
quality of their products and services.<br />
That’s one conclusion from a recent<br />
report from Weber Shandwick, The<br />
Company behind the <strong>Brand</strong> II: In<br />
Goodness We Trust.<br />
ARTHUR & HENRY<br />
The report, which examined the<br />
intersection of brand and reputation<br />
also found that 40% of consumers<br />
regularly talked about how honest and<br />
ethical companies are; 46% buy from<br />
companies that make them happy;<br />
and 45% check labels to see the<br />
company behind the brand.<br />
RIZ BOARDSHORTS<br />
Ethical fashion labels, who are<br />
transparent about their purpose and<br />
clear in their communication, should<br />
be well placed for consumers to<br />
respond positively to them across<br />
these criteria.<br />
ETHICAL FASHION FORUM // BRAND SHOWCASE <strong>2017</strong><br />
37
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ETHICAL FASHION FORUM // BRAND SHOWCASE <strong>2017</strong><br />
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source.ethicalfashionforum.com