The Geneva Watch Auction FIVE

108. AUDEMARS PIGUET – A very rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with
date, bracelet, Authenticity and Exclusivity Certifcate and service papers
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year circa 1972
Reference No.
5402ST
Movement No. 127’641
Case No.
Model Name
Material
Calibre
Bracelet/Strap
Clasp/Buckle
Dimensions
Signed
Estimate
CHF 15,000-25,000
$14,900-24,800
€13,900-23,200
067’315-A315
Royal Oak “A Series”
Stainless steel
Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Stainless steel, max length 180mm.
Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
39mm. Diameter
Case, dial and movement signed
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Authenticity and Exclusivity
Certifcate, service papers dated September 2013, presentation box and
additional link.
Immediately recognizable even to the non cognoscenti, the
Royal Oak has become one of the greatest horological designs
of all time. Legend has it that sufering from the quartz crisis
of the early 1970s, Audemars Piguet looked for a way to take
the market by storm. It was decided that the time was right
for an audacious luxury steel timepiece. Gerald Genta was
commissioned to design this watch for which he had…24 hours.
The result was a surprisingly bold maritime inspired design
featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal gold
screws, visible water resistance gasket and a dial adorned with a
tapisserie motif.
The Royal Oak was presented at the Basel fair in 1972. The rest,
as they say, is history.
Interestingly, the Royal Oak housed the extra slim caliber 2121
(developed by Jaeger LeCoultre as caliber 920), a caliber used by
the three great Swiss makers in their luxury steel sports watches
of the 1970s: Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin’s
222 and of course Audemars Piguet with the Royal Oak.
The frst Royal Oak model reference 5402 is also referred to as
the “A-Series” or “Jumbo”. The “A-Series” is distinguished by the
placement of the “AP” logo above 6 o’clock, compared to later
examples typically bearing the “AP” logo at 12 o’clock. The dial
is ftted with a dark tapisserie dial, aperture for date at 3 o’clock
and luminous white gold hands and hour markers.
When Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak, it was the
most expensive stainless steel watch ever made at the time.
Interestingly enough, the Royal Oak encased in stainless steel
cost more money for the company to produce than their gold
dress watches. So ground-breaking was its concept, Audemars
Piguet’s competitors thought the watch would bankrupt the
company. 45 years afer its launch, the Royal Oak remains the
foundation of the sports chic watch that is disruptif, playful,
sophisticated and exuding 70s cool.
The present example is number 315, indicating that it was
the 315th Royal Oak produced. Adding to the collectability of
this piece, the watch is presented with an Audemars Piguet
Certifcate of Origin and service papers.