The Geneva Watch Auction FIVE

203. A fne and rare yellow gold traveller’s wristwatch with separately adjustable
hour hand, retailed by Tifany & Co.
Manufacturer
Year 1961
Reference No. 2597
Patek Philippe
Movement No. 729’426
Case No. 310’500
Material
Calibre
Bracelet/Strap
Clasp/Buckle
Dimensions
Signed
Estimate
CHF 70,000-120,000
$69,400-119,000
€64,800-111,000
18k yellow gold
Manual, cal. 12’’’400 HS, 18 jewels, stamped HOX
Leather
18k yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
35mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming
year of manufacture in 1961, and its subsequent sale on February 20th
of the same year.
Literature
Reference 2597 is featured in “Patek Philippe Wristwatches” by Martin
Huber and Alan Banbery, second edition, pp. 238-239.
The 1950s and 1960s were the Golden Age of jet fight, with
travel times around the globe reduced from days to hours, and
for the international jet-set, airplanes became the preferred
mode of travel. The immediacy of air travel created a need
for pilots and travelers to tell time both locally and at home.
Patek Philippe patented Louis Cottier’s “Time Zone Watch”
system in 1959. The calibre 12’’’400 HS (heures sautantes or
jumping hours) was an elegant and ingenious design, which
helped the frm create an iconic mid-century wristwatch that
demonstrated the exuberance of the new modern era.
Reference 2597 was made in two versions; frst generation
models, such as the present lot, features an independently
adjustable hour hand. The pushers on the lef side of the
case are used for advancing or setting back the hour hand in
one-hour increments. The second version, launched in 1962,
featured an additional hour hand.
The present reference 2597 stands out for its original overall
condition. The large case has strong proportions with
downturned lugs, slight oxidation around the case pushers with
a pleasing rainbow colored patina, indicative that the watch has
hardly seen any wear in recent years. The dial is nicely aged,
with the raised, hard enamel print fully intact throughout. The
dial features the prestigious retailer signature, Tifany & Co.,
making it one of only a few known 2597 models with such a
coveted signature. Consistent with other wristwatches sold by
the retailer during this era, the top lef lug has a hand-etched
number, most probably Tifany’s internal inventory number.
Furthermore, the movement is accordingly stamped ‘HOX’ the
correct import mark for the American market. This masterpiece
of understated 1950s design and watchmaking is the perfect
travel watch for the discerning collector.