The Geneva Watch Auction FIVE

147. A fne and rare stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with bracelet,
moonphases and additional mother of pearl dial
Manufacturer
Year 1989
Reference No.
Audemars Piguet
25654ST
Movement No. 294’173
Case No. C-19665, further stamped n°172
Model Name
Material
Calibre
Bracelet/Strap
Clasp/Buckle
Dimensions
Signed
Estimate
CHF 20,000-30,000 Σ
$19,800-29,700
€18,500-27,800
Royal Oak
Stainless Steel
Automatic, cal 2120/2800, 38 jewels
Stainless steel bracelet measuring 195mm. max
Stainless steel deployant clasp signed AP
39mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet
Accessories
Accompanied by ftted watch winder, outer cardboard box, original
guarantee, second mother of pearl dial, service papers, travel box,
product literature and setting pin.
Literature
Reference 25654 and the caliber 2120/2800 are illustrated in Audemars
Piguet, Collector Book, Calendar Watches by Sebastian Vivas and
Michael L. Friedman, pp. 50-70 published by Audemars Piguet Heritage
Department.
The Royal Oak is a timepiece that set the benchmark on many
fronts. Not only was it the very frst luxury sports watch when
launched in 1972, it was also the very frst luxury sports watch
featuring a complication.
In 1982, exactly 10 years afer its launch, the Royal Oak
was presented with a perpetual calendar, not only a rare
complication at the time as very few brands were still producing
them but the audacity of housing this delicate complication in a
steel sports watch was mind boggling.
Interestingly, the birth of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
is the result of research undertaken by three brilliant
watchmakers wishing to create an extra slim perpetual calendar
mechanism built upon caliber 2120, which cased other iconic
models such as Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin’s
222 and the Royal Oak itself.
Caliber 2120/2800 was born in 1977 making it the world’s
slimmest perpetual calendar movement with a thickness of
only 3.95mm. The subsequent years were used in fnalizing
the development and fnally in 1982 the Royal Oak took the
horological world by surprise, once again, with the launch of a
model with perpetual calendar.
The present lot, reference 25654ST, in absolutely stunning
condition was in production between 1982 and 1993 and made
in only 272 pieces in steel. The present lot is not only ftted with
a superb silver dial but is also accompanied by a second mother
of pearl dial habitually reserved for the platinum models.
The present lot is a spectacular time capsule, made in 1989
and ofered by the original owner complete with winding box,
certifcate of guarantee, setting pin, service papers dating 2016
and of course a second mother of pearl dial enabling the watch
to change appearances, going from active to sleek elegance,
depending on the dial mounted.