Tokyo Weekender - April 2016

AREA GUIDE | WEEKENDER | 13
THESE STREETS WERE MADE FOR WALKING
Yanaka is one of the rare areas of Tokyo that
kept its old shitamachi (“downtown”) character,
populated with merchants, artisans and cats. The
district also known as Yanesen (named after the
first syllables of the three neighboring districts
of Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi) offers a charming
glimpse of the Edo times. It was luckily spared
from the WWII bombings, and managed to retain
a quaint atmosphere.
Reserve an afternoon to explore this historical
part of Tokyo, often overlooked by the hordes
of tourists. Start your promenade from Nippori
station, and you’ll quickly find yourself in the narrow
shopping street of Yanakaginza. Don’t worry
about getting lost—just let yourself stumble upon
countless food stalls, meat and vegetable markets,
textile shops, secondhand and vintage clothing
havens, pottery stores, and the many tiny shops
carrying traditional crafts such as washi (Japanese
paper) and handwoven bamboo baskets.
If you keep walking up the hill towards Ueno,
you’ll suddenly snap back to the present: welcome
to 2k540 Aki-Oka Artisan, a sleek name for an
equally sleek and trendy little area dedicated to
jewelry, ornaments and other artifacts. Located
right underneath the elevated JR train tracks near
Okachimachi station, Aki-Oka Artisan houses
groups of craftsmen who display their creations in
boutiques, galleries, cafes and studios. While the
area will please fashionistas who want to revamp
their accessories collection, it offers a lot more
than a mere shopping experience. Visitors can
participate in various workshops and design their
own pieces.
End your stroll with a pit stop at SCAI the
Bathhouse, a former bathhouse turned into a
sophisticated art space. And don’t leave Yanaka
without a taste of old Tokyo, which comes in
the form of senbei rice crackers. Take your pick
between soy sauce, nori (seaweed), kombu (kelp),
or sesame seeds, a nice little snack before hopping
back on the train.
DOWNTOWN
GROUNDS
Bohemian culture and a
good cuppa go hand in hand,
so it should come as no
surprise that the area around
Yanaka has a long tradition
of excellent coffee. Kayaba
Coffee (6-1-29 Yanaka) has a
history that dates back nearly
80 years, and while you can
find plenty of Yanaka Coffee
(3-8-6 Yanaka, other shops
nearby at 2-31-3 Sendagi and
1-5-11 Nezu) shops around
town, the location where it all
got started is, naturally, right
here too. The Hagi Cafe (3-
10-25 Yanaka) is just one part
of a two-story complex that
includes a gallery, an event
space, and a design studio.
The institution is only three
years in the running, but it has
charm to spare. Finally, the
artfully designed Minori Cafe
(1-22-10 Nezu) offers a laidback
environment for whiling
away an hour or two over
lunch or a lazy afternoon.
www.tokyoweekender.com APRIL 2016